Since I am the drywall person for my own job, I appreciate learning about side-stapling. Thank you for making the effort to publish such a helpful video!
This was really helpful, man, thank you! I’m finishing a 12x16 shed where we will run our embroidery business for a few years and I’m doing it all myself. Thanks for the tip on working around the outlets.
Thank you for the video there are lots of these on UA-cam but I really liked your down to earth presentation, gave me the confidence to attempt to insulate my garage!
@@kyleheidenreich2848 we put down the plastic we were told it's a moisture barrier, our supply house that we ordered from included it with our order of batts we went knauf R21
This was very helpful. Love the better mask. I looked for an affiliate link for it, you should get credit for that. I found both the RZ mask and an insulation knife on Amazon thanks to your recommendations. Since this is the first time I will install insulation and at the cost of materials and heating, I want to be sure to do it correctly. Thanks!
Thanks and much thanks for watching! RZ has a newer version available from what I have noticed online! Love their masks! Just take your time and the key is not compressing the insulation in the wall. Obviously it gets compressed when you cut it but let it fluff back up and install it. Glad the video helped! Let me know how it goes or if you run into other questions! Have a great one!
I'll be doing this to the exterior walls of my in process basement finishing. My anxiety lol. Watching the faced rolled insulation going in has calmed some of my anxiety about the whole ordeal.
Roll the batt up tight. Measure and mark width to cut, use sawsall blade and blow thru it in 2 seconds. Unroll batt, slap her in. Done. Make slits for the horizontal boards in the glass.
I have a question about the piece of insulation you had to cut because the bay is more narrow than the insulation. How did you attach the paper to the stud on the side you cut? I'm learning to insulate an exterior wall and I am not sure if I staple the cut side to the stud or did you attach it a different way. Because after you cut away the folded paper edge, there isn't any folded paper to staple to the stud. Thank you for your video! It was informative and you were easy to understand, except you skipped over attaching the piece you cut. Thank you!
@relativehunter22 thanks for watching! So the staple tabs give you a little bit of wiggle room since the tabs are about an inch or so wide. Some people try to only cut the insulation without cutting the paper on the other side, which could allow you to cut it accordingly to allow for stapling. Make sure you don't cut the insulation too thin. It's better to have it be a little bit tight than loose in the wall. You could either just staple the one side or pull the paper over on your cut side first, just enough to get staples in, and them staple your non cut side. Basically pulling the paper over with just bare minimum staple surface on both sides. If you don't achieve good results like that, I have also seen people staple the non cut side and then tape on the cut side. Just don't leave your Batts too thick when you make your cuts, remember insulation compression is your enemy. Compression I'm the wall means loss of R value. Obviously you compress it to cut it, but you don't want it compressed once installed. Hope that helps! Let me know if you have other questions!
I love all these comments about the side tabs or whatever you call them. He specifically said exactly why he’s stapling them where he is. And plus it’s his shop he can do it however he wants.
Great Video! I would be less concered about a 1/8 staple gap and more worried about 3/8 board warp and how flat the wall the studs were framed personally. If I'm doing it myself, its being done right and with a full vapor barrier. To each their own though.
Great video! If you have heavy wire running horizontally through your bays ( left from a previous owner), do you cut a partial ‘slit’ in the insulation somehow so there’s not a bulge at that spot somehow?
@ronoberleitner7547 thanks for watching! Yes, unless the code in your area is different. Either slice the batt to the depth the wire is and let the wire go right into that cut line. Or cut the batt to the right depth above or below it and peel some material back so it can drape behind the wire. Ultimately your trying to avoid any compression of the insulation, otherwise it isn't doing its job. Having some insulation between the wire and outside wall also gives you better fireproofing. I also did a video on ceiling insulation where I had to deal with wires running across bays. Thanks again and let me know if you have any other questions!
I'm 5'2...and a half ;) lol I won't be opening my bags quite as gracefully lol i just need to replace a few pieces in a new construction (after housefire)...stuff some places, tape and staple and make it look pretty. Thanks for the info...I'm sick of waiting for a guy to do it! I want my walls up, and no one treats your house with the care you give your own house. I had to learn that lesson the hard way!
Your height won't effect how gracefully you open the bags. I learned the trick from my Mexican friend when I worked out west and he was only about that height. Just kick the bottom out and lean it toward you and let me spread out on the floor. Hope the project goes easy and sorry to hear about the housefire! Take care!
@@HermanWoodworks lol I'm also 105-110lb depending on the day haha and a super duper weakling! But yes, I learned about the foam around windows after some of my windows wont open ....contractor screwed me did so much wrong...I just want back in. Been displaced for few years, but this is my year! Tysm 4 your help💜
I’m pretty sure I’d like to have my barrier in place and cause some issues to drywallers. Having dry construction is more important and we’re talking about few staples.
Thank you! Yeah my building was the same way with the horizontal girts. The frame in took a little time but added some good strength to the interior wall and gave me enough space to put R19 in the walls. Probably a little overkill for a workshop but it held a good temperature all year round easily between doing the walls and R30 in the ceiling. Good luck with the project!
In California the new code is the kraft has to be stapled to the inside but when you staple it to the inside it becomes a air gap and promotes mold growth and damage later on so to anyone who cares about the people theyre installing for staple it to the outside along the stud
I've heard some people feel the need to but they design the kraft paper to be a vapor barrier so doubling it over is just overkill. I can honestly tell you this garage was a thermos by the time I hung drywall.
I got a shed someone built before I bought this house. They insulated and put up plastic barrier. I think the part that made it all moldy was there's this gap in the very top of the roof on one side, about an inch, across the whole top side. Yeah....there was black mold on all sides and ceiling of the shed, under the plastic and in various patches of the insulation.
I have a shed with collar ties a few feet from the peak. The ties will be my ceiling are only 6”, not leaving me room for thicker ceiling insulation. Can I just put in thicker insulation having it rise above the ties? Or put in insulation that fits 6” and add insulation in top going in the opposite direction? Also I have peak/soffit ventilation and will be installing baffles. Do the baffles need to go all the way to the peak in an ungrateful attic type space?
I may have not shown it in the video, but I usually slice the insulation slightly above and below the horizontal 2x4s. You are correct. Thanks for watching!
If you overlap the vapor barrier on top of studs, you can't liquid nail the drywall. The strength of my walls is way more important than the slight loss of barrier.
Thanks! I don't have one on just vapor barriers. Technically if I would have overlapped the kraft tabs and then stapled them on the face of the stud it would be a vapor barrier. Some places don't allow for stapling, it technically allows air penetration, very minimal... even the way I have it is still a semi vapor barrier. The workshop is a thermos the way I have it, really holds a good temperature year round with minimal heating or cooling.
In lumber country in WA and it is now $81 for Home Depot Common: 19/32 in. x 4 ft. x 8 ft., Actual: 0.578 in. x 47.75 in. x 95.75 in. Oriented Strand Board ($71 for bulk). Uff da. We are doing a 1980s mobile home remodel. Luckily all the floors are in great shape!
I like to glue my drywall to studs so i don't staple to face of studs. Your method is fast but I'd much rather use 1.5" of foam board behind vertical studs and between outer 2x4's. Then r13 vertically
@JimCooper-f8g that way is great! I did that with my dad's pole barn, before foam board became expensive. Acts as a great vapor barrier also! I also agree with the drywall, I use liquid nails on the studs.
If drywallers get upset with face staples for insulation, what's the difference with the face staples for the plastic vapor barrier? Either way a staple is gonna be facing the drywall.
I should probably say they get mad at the stapler not the staples...unless your being diligent and making sure every staple is flush. They just hate any staples left up a little that interferes with their drywall sheet laying flat against the board. When I was insulating, alot of the guys I worked with were using slap or stick staplers and were cruising along and didn't care if staples were sticking a little high... so kraft paper or plastic, as long as you get them all flush and the paper or plastic flat.
Hey sorry for not responding sooner! If the joists are spaced properly the compression should hold them up for the time until you staple. If the batts are flimsy give them some time to expand when they are fresh out of the bag. They also sell metal wire precut rods that will spike into the wood from one side to the other. If all else fails ive seen people string twine from one side to the other.
@@Lolatyou332 the staples help guarantee the drywall doesn't shift material around while its being installed. To guarantee compression fit you would have to pop all your bags and let them decompress for a day or so.
Fantastic video. Thanks! A question: I'm having a new home built in Frisco, TX. The builder will not be insulating the garage (not required). In a situation where insulation is not required, can the act of insulating the garage trigger the need for inspection and the possibility of not passing code? In other words, if it's not required, even if I do something wrong that doesn't meet code, will I risk failing inspection? Or will the inspector not even care because it's not required? Like Herman Woodworks, I'm doing it out of choice. I'll be installing a mini-split and want to make the space more efficient. Thanks again!
Hello David! Thanks for the compliment! Having visited Texas multiple times, I totally understand the desire to insulate the garage to maximize the benefit from the mini split. Everywhere can be so different about building codes but maybe speak with the building inspector to verify what you want to do and what they would expect from their end. It definitely seems like you would really want to insulate given the temperatures that can be achieved in that area.
when you made the lengthwise cut for the narrow bay, how did you staple the right side since there was no kraft paper left behind to staple? my guess is you only stapled the left side.
Do you have a particular place/store that you prefer to buy your insulation from? Like do you have a miracle recipe for getting it cheaper than Lowe's?
If your military, I believe both Lowes and Home Depot offer a discount. My local grocery store gives money towards gas if you buy gift cards. Mostly importantly watch the bulk prices at Home Depot. I needed like 9 bags of R30 to do the ceiling in the workshop which is another video I did. By buying 14 or more it cut the cost significantly....I ended up adding extra for my whole house and it only cost me like 100 extra....so check the bulk price!
I put R30 insulation in the ceiling. The heat will rise, so if you don't insulate that you will lose whatever heat you are getting rapidly. Also in the summer you will get alot of heat from the roof heating up. Any insulation you get up there will help. I may have did a separate video for the ceiling....not sure. Hope that helps!
@@HermanWoodworks your video was really helpful. I'm about to start remodeling a small lake house in north central Arkansas that's been in my family for 5 generations, doing as much research as I can, so I can save as much money as I can. Thanks
@@captainkhakis9826 that sounds awesome! Let me know if you think of any other questions! That sounds so cool to be able to restore a family piece like that!
Are you using the foam board against the outside wall? Depending on the thickness of the foam board , that will be all the vapor barrier you need. No need for a double vapor barrier. Be sure to leave adequate air spacing between outside wall and the different layers of insulation. Hope that helps!
With hybrid insulation you have to worry about the dew point, as if you have a vapor barrier too close to the outside wall and then a majority of the insulation on the inside wall, it could actually cause a temperature differential on the foam board which can cause condensation. Code usually requires the out-most insulation r value to be 2/3rd of the total R-Value, then up to 1/3 of remaining insulation can be on the inside.
Literally comes down to your local code. Some people don't want a staple hole in it. I've had some people say they want the seams spray glued. It doesn't hurt to ask your local inspector.
Why would you staple the vapor barrier to the side of the board? That paper is suppose to be the vapor barrier which prevents humidity from going through your wall from both the inside and outside... During the insulation installations I don't think you should even worry about the drywall installation. The only reason you would worry about the drywall insulation is if there aren't studs to screw into or if you are worried the installers might mess up your insulation or vapor barrier.
To get a true vapor barrier you are suppose to overlap the tabs and then staple the tabs down together. Drywallers hate this because most people down take the time to flush set every staple which could lead to wavy drywall....
@@HermanWoodworks Then it sounds like people should use face-less insulation and then install their own continuous vapor barrier, using non-silicone caulking instead of staples. I just don't like how you tell people to do this with their insulation as you effectively don't really have a vapor barrier at all because of improper insulation installation.
@@Lolatyou332 Owens corning has fast batts that don't need stapled, but as per their other kraft faced insulation that tab is for stapling to make sure it doesn't slide in your wall overtime. I have also done installs with unfaced and covered it 4 mil or so plastic, which still requires stapled to hold true. If your looking for that tight of a vapor seal, closed cell spray in for the vapor barrier finished with open cell would be best. I have installed that also.
@@HermanWoodworks Vapor barriers are supposed to be, based on code, 6 mill minimum for walls, and higher for areas like crawl spaces. You just use poly-safe (not silicone) caulking on the studs and that holds the vapor barrier in place AND prevents airflow between the studs, so if you do have air leakage it would be limited to a smaller area, ideally you caulk every other stud and that isolates issues to just those studs.
Depending on what your buying, I think my batts were meant for 8 foot walls....if you have taller, I start at the top and leave all my cut in pieces for the bottom.
A nice cheat if you have alot of same length cuts...measure it and make some tape marks on the floor, then use a scrap of plywood or something and make all your cuts ahead of time. Stretch the material out so you don't get variations.
@@HermanWoodworks thank you tons. I thought I seen some where they hang it. And when they get to bottom they cut it. Must be a odd practice as I don't see much info
This is for the mask through Amazon but I believe I bought mine at Lowes a couple of years ago. Hope that helps! They usually carried alot of different color masks i believe.
If you were to opt away from hanging drywall, 1st i would check with your building inspector or check the code for that area. 2nd, if you were to remove the kraft paper, install some level of vapor barrier, like a 4 mil or so plastic to keep that fiberglass from being disturbed and going airborne.
Actually it was the Don Con who refused to deal with Covid particularly the supply chain issues which elevated the cost of materials. Economics is all about supply and demand and there was no supply and high demand.
When I sheeted the outside of the building it was 7.60 a sheet bulk price....it went all the way up to 50 here is ohio...it has since came back down to 29.50....silly.
wow i can see why you only insulated for 3 yrs..you wouldnthave made it 3 weeks with us.. R 19 turns into R 21 how??? haha! you compressed it LOSING R VALUE ...u have fg going OVER the horizontal studs ..AND you did NOTHING about filling the gaps behind the studs! the air movement alone will REDUCE the r value to about 14 at best. wow.. so sad.
Personal preference....I use to install rock wool between units in multi unit condos. It performs great for sound purposes. For my application, price is a factor and fiberglass is definitely cheaper.
Yeah I don't understand why anyone would use fiberglass, considering the majority of the cost for insulation installation is labor / time. Also if fiberglass gets wet you have to basically tear down the wall and re-install it. Mineral Wool is just better.
@@HermanWoodworks Just because there are more problems doesn't mean that the problem is not effectively multiplied because of the insulation getting wet and becoming useless. There could be a simple leak around a rain gutter that can be easily repaired, but because fiberglass insulation was chosen, now a section of a walls insulation has become useless and needs to be replaced. Mineral wool insulation would just allow you to allow the water to diffuse out through an external moisture barrier without any real long-term issues, as long as the leak was addressed in an appropriate amount of time.
All the annoying droning on isn't helpful, too much empty talk. He says he did insulation for three years, "But I'm not an expert..." OK, I'll find a video from an expert. Thanks.
This was so helpful! Husband left a year ago and im discovering with the help of youtube videos like yours, i can do all this myself!
Always glad to hear it helped someone! Thanks for watching!
A handy woman is... rare. Kudos!
2 yrs later and still a huge help. Thx for posting!
Thanks! Really appreciate it!
Since I am the drywall person for my own job, I appreciate learning about side-stapling. Thank you for making the effort to publish such a helpful video!
No problem! Thanks for watching!
This was really helpful, man, thank you! I’m finishing a 12x16 shed where we will run our embroidery business for a few years and I’m doing it all myself. Thanks for the tip on working around the outlets.
Thank you for the video there are lots of these on UA-cam but I really liked your down to earth presentation, gave me the confidence to attempt to insulate my garage!
Thank you, I really appreciate it! If you think of any questions feel free to ask! Mahalo!
Ewer
I’m about to do my garage. Do you cover the insulation with plastic wrap when you’re done or just put the sheetrock on top?
@@kyleheidenreich2848 we put down the plastic we were told it's a moisture barrier, our supply house that we ordered from included it with our order of batts we went knauf R21
I used osb on my walls hangers screw in no dents worked fantastic
@paulgawlik2590 I did the bottom with osb for hanging tools, and then drywalled the ceiling. I agree with you, worked perfect!
This was very helpful. Love the better mask. I looked for an affiliate link for it, you should get credit for that. I found both the RZ mask and an insulation knife on Amazon thanks to your recommendations. Since this is the first time I will install insulation and at the cost of materials and heating, I want to be sure to do it correctly. Thanks!
Thanks and much thanks for watching! RZ has a newer version available from what I have noticed online! Love their masks! Just take your time and the key is not compressing the insulation in the wall. Obviously it gets compressed when you cut it but let it fluff back up and install it. Glad the video helped! Let me know how it goes or if you run into other questions! Have a great one!
Thanks for making this video it helped getting a head start for first time doing this
@@TonyCarbine glad it helped! Thanks for watching!
Thank you for the tips. I'll do it for myself. I do not need to hire a contractor. Excellent video.
Glad to hear! Just verify your local code if you need a inspection. Also it doesn't hurt to ask your drywaller what they want to see or are use to.
I wish i could like this video twice.😂 this guy is cool!
Thanks for watching!
Arrr …just going to put some pink batts on my walls to my workshop …but I’m here in New Zealand and our framing is completely different!
I'll be doing this to the exterior walls of my in process basement finishing. My anxiety lol.
Watching the faced rolled insulation going in has calmed some of my anxiety about the whole ordeal.
I don’t think I’ve ever skipped thru a video so much in my life
Roll the batt up tight. Measure and mark width to cut, use sawsall blade and blow thru it in 2 seconds. Unroll batt, slap her in. Done. Make slits for the horizontal boards in the glass.
I have a question about the piece of insulation you had to cut because the bay is more narrow than the insulation. How did you attach the paper to the stud on the side you cut? I'm learning to insulate an exterior wall and I am not sure if I staple the cut side to the stud or did you attach it a different way. Because after you cut away the folded paper edge, there isn't any folded paper to staple to the stud. Thank you for your video! It was informative and you were easy to understand, except you skipped over attaching the piece you cut. Thank you!
@relativehunter22 thanks for watching! So the staple tabs give you a little bit of wiggle room since the tabs are about an inch or so wide. Some people try to only cut the insulation without cutting the paper on the other side, which could allow you to cut it accordingly to allow for stapling. Make sure you don't cut the insulation too thin. It's better to have it be a little bit tight than loose in the wall. You could either just staple the one side or pull the paper over on your cut side first, just enough to get staples in, and them staple your non cut side. Basically pulling the paper over with just bare minimum staple surface on both sides. If you don't achieve good results like that, I have also seen people staple the non cut side and then tape on the cut side. Just don't leave your Batts too thick when you make your cuts, remember insulation compression is your enemy. Compression I'm the wall means loss of R value. Obviously you compress it to cut it, but you don't want it compressed once installed. Hope that helps! Let me know if you have other questions!
I love all these comments about the side tabs or whatever you call them. He specifically said exactly why he’s stapling them where he is. And plus it’s his shop he can do it however he wants.
Great Video! I would be less concered about a 1/8 staple gap and more worried about 3/8 board warp and how flat the wall the studs were framed personally. If I'm doing it myself, its being done right and with a full vapor barrier. To each their own though.
Great video - very informative I feel like I can tackle my insulating job now.
Thanks! Let me know if you have any questions. I did another video on ceiling insulation also. Thanks for watching!
Great video! If you have heavy wire running horizontally through your bays ( left from a previous owner), do you cut a partial ‘slit’ in the insulation somehow so there’s not a bulge at that spot somehow?
@ronoberleitner7547 thanks for watching! Yes, unless the code in your area is different. Either slice the batt to the depth the wire is and let the wire go right into that cut line. Or cut the batt to the right depth above or below it and peel some material back so it can drape behind the wire. Ultimately your trying to avoid any compression of the insulation, otherwise it isn't doing its job. Having some insulation between the wire and outside wall also gives you better fireproofing. I also did a video on ceiling insulation where I had to deal with wires running across bays. Thanks again and let me know if you have any other questions!
I'm 5'2...and a half ;) lol I won't be opening my bags quite as gracefully lol i just need to replace a few pieces in a new construction (after housefire)...stuff some places, tape and staple and make it look pretty. Thanks for the info...I'm sick of waiting for a guy to do it! I want my walls up, and no one treats your house with the care you give your own house. I had to learn that lesson the hard way!
Your height won't effect how gracefully you open the bags. I learned the trick from my Mexican friend when I worked out west and he was only about that height. Just kick the bottom out and lean it toward you and let me spread out on the floor. Hope the project goes easy and sorry to hear about the housefire! Take care!
@@HermanWoodworks lol I'm also 105-110lb depending on the day haha and a super duper weakling! But yes, I learned about the foam around windows after some of my windows wont open ....contractor screwed me did so much wrong...I just want back in. Been displaced for few years, but this is my year! Tysm 4 your help💜
Im planning to DIY my wall insulation your tricks are good!👍
Thank you so much! Great tips and very honest.
That was really great, you're an excellent teacher
Lol insulating our cottage we built tomorrow and this is gonna be my go-to
Let me know if you think of any questions!
@@HermanWoodworks lol I will probably have a million tomorrow even though it’s only the size of a shed 😂 thx
@@beautybyadventurous9309 so how did the project go?
@@HermanWoodworks had to go back and fix wiring that we did wrong. Fingers crossed we get to install tomorrow
I’m pretty sure I’d like to have my barrier in place and cause some issues to drywallers. Having dry construction is more important and we’re talking about few staples.
Great video. Might do my pole barn the same way. It’s horizontal gerders at the moment. Need some virts framed in
Thank you! Yeah my building was the same way with the horizontal girts. The frame in took a little time but added some good strength to the interior wall and gave me enough space to put R19 in the walls. Probably a little overkill for a workshop but it held a good temperature all year round easily between doing the walls and R30 in the ceiling. Good luck with the project!
Amazing. Nice work. I’m now a ‘pro’
I needed a 101 this was perfect 👍
Thank you for this great video. Helps me tremendously. Getting ready to insulate my garage. Also subbed to your channel
Awesome! Glad it helped and thanks for the subscribe! Let me know if you get any questions on your install! Thanks again!
In California the new code is the kraft has to be stapled to the inside but when you staple it to the inside it becomes a air gap and promotes mold growth and damage later on so to anyone who cares about the people theyre installing for staple it to the outside along the stud
Question.... would you add a plastic vapor barrier as well? or is that overkill ? excellent video
I've heard some people feel the need to but they design the kraft paper to be a vapor barrier so doubling it over is just overkill. I can honestly tell you this garage was a thermos by the time I hung drywall.
I got a shed someone built before I bought this house. They insulated and put up plastic barrier. I think the part that made it all moldy was there's this gap in the very top of the roof on one side, about an inch, across the whole top side. Yeah....there was black mold on all sides and ceiling of the shed, under the plastic and in various patches of the insulation.
Great video - super helpful! Thanks!
That was super satisfying to watch them get stapled and straightened haha
Thank you! Probably my favorite part of doing installation!
Thank you good sir. I learned a lot.
Best wishes for UA-cam Stardom
Thank you so much Kim H!
Dont you need baffles between osb/plywood wall and the insulation??
Thanks brother...this helped a ton.
@@jeffizflip glad it helped! Thanks for watching!
I have a shed with collar ties a few feet from the peak. The ties will be my ceiling are only 6”, not leaving me room for thicker ceiling insulation. Can I just put in thicker insulation having it rise above the ties? Or put in insulation that fits 6” and add insulation in top going in the opposite direction? Also I have peak/soffit ventilation and will be installing baffles. Do the baffles need to go all the way to the peak in an ungrateful attic type space?
Thank you gracias muchas bendiciones
So you just compress it to 3 1/2" over the horizontal 2x4's? That doesn't seem right.
I may have not shown it in the video, but I usually slice the insulation slightly above and below the horizontal 2x4s. You are correct. Thanks for watching!
Super helpful and DIY friendly
Thank you!
This is a super good vídeo thank You so much 🙏
If you overlap the vapor barrier on top of studs, you can't liquid nail the drywall. The strength of my walls is way more important than the slight loss of barrier.
Lol, you can't possibly be serious?
Thanks for this video it was great. Do you have a video on installing vapor barrier?
Thanks! I don't have one on just vapor barriers. Technically if I would have overlapped the kraft tabs and then stapled them on the face of the stud it would be a vapor barrier. Some places don't allow for stapling, it technically allows air penetration, very minimal... even the way I have it is still a semi vapor barrier. The workshop is a thermos the way I have it, really holds a good temperature year round with minimal heating or cooling.
Now it’s $50 for the osb..... smh. Great vid, straight to the point
Thanks Luis R! Yeah its insane, when I bought the exterior walls it was 7.80 bulk price at home depot.....now its 50 bucks....crazy!
In lumber country in WA and it is now $81 for Home Depot Common: 19/32 in. x 4 ft. x 8 ft., Actual: 0.578 in. x 47.75 in. x 95.75 in. Oriented Strand Board ($71 for bulk). Uff da. We are doing a 1980s mobile home remodel. Luckily all the floors are in great shape!
I forgot to say "whoop" when cutting my bags... that's what I was doing wrong!
I like to glue my drywall to studs so i don't staple to face of studs. Your method is fast but I'd much rather use 1.5" of foam board behind vertical studs and between outer 2x4's. Then r13 vertically
@JimCooper-f8g that way is great! I did that with my dad's pole barn, before foam board became expensive. Acts as a great vapor barrier also! I also agree with the drywall, I use liquid nails on the studs.
If drywallers get upset with face staples for insulation, what's the difference with the face staples for the plastic vapor barrier? Either way a staple is gonna be facing the drywall.
I should probably say they get mad at the stapler not the staples...unless your being diligent and making sure every staple is flush. They just hate any staples left up a little that interferes with their drywall sheet laying flat against the board. When I was insulating, alot of the guys I worked with were using slap or stick staplers and were cruising along and didn't care if staples were sticking a little high... so kraft paper or plastic, as long as you get them all flush and the paper or plastic flat.
Baseline cuts are the way to go. Pop the top and let the insulation drop. Let the low boys cut what is needed on the ground. Keep on moving.
What do recommend to hold up insulation batts to ceiling while stapling
Hey sorry for not responding sooner! If the joists are spaced properly the compression should hold them up for the time until you staple. If the batts are flimsy give them some time to expand when they are fresh out of the bag. They also sell metal wire precut rods that will spike into the wood from one side to the other. If all else fails ive seen people string twine from one side to the other.
Do you have to drywall over faced insulation? I have a shop I wanna insulate but don't wanna drywall.
Check your local building code. I believe that alot of places require it to be covered after installation.
How far apart do you staple? Thanks for the tips.
You could check your local building code but I usually put a staple every 6 to 12 inches depending on how straight or stiff the batt is....
It doesn't matter, it is probably better to not staple at all. The insulation is all compression fit anyway.
@@Lolatyou332 the staples help guarantee the drywall doesn't shift material around while its being installed. To guarantee compression fit you would have to pop all your bags and let them decompress for a day or so.
Fantastic video. Thanks! A question: I'm having a new home built in Frisco, TX. The builder will not be insulating the garage (not required). In a situation where insulation is not required, can the act of insulating the garage trigger the need for inspection and the possibility of not passing code? In other words, if it's not required, even if I do something wrong that doesn't meet code, will I risk failing inspection? Or will the inspector not even care because it's not required? Like Herman Woodworks, I'm doing it out of choice. I'll be installing a mini-split and want to make the space more efficient. Thanks again!
Hello David! Thanks for the compliment! Having visited Texas multiple times, I totally understand the desire to insulate the garage to maximize the benefit from the mini split. Everywhere can be so different about building codes but maybe speak with the building inspector to verify what you want to do and what they would expect from their end. It definitely seems like you would really want to insulate given the temperatures that can be achieved in that area.
when you made the lengthwise cut for the narrow bay, how did you staple the right side since there was no kraft paper left behind to staple? my guess is you only stapled the left side.
Yes....kind of just have to make it a friction fit. Sometimes it works out where you can get some staples on it.
When you cut for the narrow bay, don't cut through the kraft paper. Remove the insulation and fold over the kraft paper then stape to stud,
Do you have a particular place/store that you prefer to buy your insulation from? Like do you have a miracle recipe for getting it cheaper than Lowe's?
If your military, I believe both Lowes and Home Depot offer a discount. My local grocery store gives money towards gas if you buy gift cards. Mostly importantly watch the bulk prices at Home Depot. I needed like 9 bags of R30 to do the ceiling in the workshop which is another video I did. By buying 14 or more it cut the cost significantly....I ended up adding extra for my whole house and it only cost me like 100 extra....so check the bulk price!
@@HermanWoodworks Awesome advice!!
I like it. Nice video 😊📸
Great tips. Thanks for getting to the point.
Thank you, very informative video!
Great video! It's got electrolytes :)
Its what the plants crave! Thanks!
Hi do you have to put insulation in the ceiling too.
I put R30 insulation in the ceiling. The heat will rise, so if you don't insulate that you will lose whatever heat you are getting rapidly. Also in the summer you will get alot of heat from the roof heating up. Any insulation you get up there will help. I may have did a separate video for the ceiling....not sure. Hope that helps!
Ok cool thanks for your help
Brawndo has what plants crave..
The thirst mutilator!
@@HermanWoodworks your video was really helpful. I'm about to start remodeling a small lake house in north central Arkansas that's been in my family for 5 generations, doing as much research as I can, so I can save as much money as I can. Thanks
@@captainkhakis9826 that sounds awesome! Let me know if you think of any other questions! That sounds so cool to be able to restore a family piece like that!
Thanks for sharing!
Thanks man, I like your personality haha
Thanks for watching!
For a basement would you recommend insulation with or without the paper vapor barrier? I’m also using a foam board barrier.
Are you using the foam board against the outside wall? Depending on the thickness of the foam board , that will be all the vapor barrier you need. No need for a double vapor barrier. Be sure to leave adequate air spacing between outside wall and the different layers of insulation. Hope that helps!
With hybrid insulation you have to worry about the dew point, as if you have a vapor barrier too close to the outside wall and then a majority of the insulation on the inside wall, it could actually cause a temperature differential on the foam board which can cause condensation.
Code usually requires the out-most insulation r value to be 2/3rd of the total R-Value, then up to 1/3 of remaining insulation can be on the inside.
Nice tips Thankyou!
Shouldnt the vapor barrier be on the inside, not the outside?
The vapor barrier on kraft Batts goes towards the living space.
Do we tape the seams too?
Literally comes down to your local code. Some people don't want a staple hole in it. I've had some people say they want the seams spray glued. It doesn't hurt to ask your local inspector.
The “we don’t all have masks in our home” really felt like some foreshadowing.
The world is a tricky place, gang
your vapor barrier is the house wrap on the outside these days!
Why would you staple the vapor barrier to the side of the board?
That paper is suppose to be the vapor barrier which prevents humidity from going through your wall from both the inside and outside...
During the insulation installations I don't think you should even worry about the drywall installation. The only reason you would worry about the drywall insulation is if there aren't studs to screw into or if you are worried the installers might mess up your insulation or vapor barrier.
To get a true vapor barrier you are suppose to overlap the tabs and then staple the tabs down together. Drywallers hate this because most people down take the time to flush set every staple which could lead to wavy drywall....
@@HermanWoodworks Then it sounds like people should use face-less insulation and then install their own continuous vapor barrier, using non-silicone caulking instead of staples.
I just don't like how you tell people to do this with their insulation as you effectively don't really have a vapor barrier at all because of improper insulation installation.
@@Lolatyou332 Owens corning has fast batts that don't need stapled, but as per their other kraft faced insulation that tab is for stapling to make sure it doesn't slide in your wall overtime. I have also done installs with unfaced and covered it 4 mil or so plastic, which still requires stapled to hold true. If your looking for that tight of a vapor seal, closed cell spray in for the vapor barrier finished with open cell would be best. I have installed that also.
@@HermanWoodworks Vapor barriers are supposed to be, based on code, 6 mill minimum for walls, and higher for areas like crawl spaces.
You just use poly-safe (not silicone) caulking on the studs and that holds the vapor barrier in place AND prevents airflow between the studs, so if you do have air leakage it would be limited to a smaller area, ideally you caulk every other stud and that isolates issues to just those studs.
How do you measure a full bat for a bay? I have 115.5 inch bay and I seem to be long or short
Depending on what your buying, I think my batts were meant for 8 foot walls....if you have taller, I start at the top and leave all my cut in pieces for the bottom.
@@HermanWoodworks Well i buy the stuff thats in a roll of like 33 feet or something. Didnt know if you staple up first, then cut or how you do it?
A nice cheat if you have alot of same length cuts...measure it and make some tape marks on the floor, then use a scrap of plywood or something and make all your cuts ahead of time. Stretch the material out so you don't get variations.
@@HermanWoodworks thank you tons. I thought I seen some where they hang it. And when they get to bottom they cut it. Must be a odd practice as I don't see much info
Paper isn’t a great vapor barrier anyway just use home wrap on the exterior and your good
I wrapped the outside with Tyvek also. The building was a thermos once I did the ceiling.
Very informative, thank you! Sub’d
Thank you very much!
Don't the instructions on the actual product say to install the vapor barrier on the exterior side of the wall? 🤔
No....vapor barrier goes towards the heated side.
Thanks buddy 😊
Thanks great tips!
Thank you!
Nice shirt man
Thank you, very helpful. Wanna come help me do my she shed? 😁
I have to do this again when I build my next shop. We just sold our house and this shop. I have alot of work to do! Good luck with your shed!
Thank you
Could you drop the Link for the mask please? [also the k e for the air stapler and gloves :]
www.amazon.com/dp/B07CV31B1C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_imm_K0ABC2XHCHYBHBC67GX3?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
This is for the mask through Amazon but I believe I bought mine at Lowes a couple of years ago. Hope that helps! They usually carried alot of different color masks i believe.
Thank you!
Thanks.
What company out west
Allied Insulation in Colorado Springs...Masco company. Then Banker Insulation in Arizona. Then finally another Masco owned company in Oregon.
I bought me those fake tattoo sleeves, works great
Isn't leaving the paper on a fire hazard?
Hey David, the paper is only a hazard if left exposed without putting up drywall. I have since put drywall up on the wall and ceiling.
@@HermanWoodworks Do you need to put up drywall or can you maybe opt to remove the paper and just have the exposed fiberglass insulation?
If you were to opt away from hanging drywall, 1st i would check with your building inspector or check the code for that area. 2nd, if you were to remove the kraft paper, install some level of vapor barrier, like a 4 mil or so plastic to keep that fiberglass from being disturbed and going airborne.
Brawndo has what plants crave
The thirst mutilator!
It has electrolytes.
Wala naman po test before and aftee
Love sound effects lol whoop
Bro was doing some skedaddling 10:17-10:41
Install your insulation the correct way because you are paying your electric bill.
Let the air get to it.
Wacker tracker
no mask i feel it myself
Let's go Brandon! That's who's responsible for those wood prices!
Actually it was the Don Con who refused to deal with Covid particularly the supply chain issues which elevated the cost of materials. Economics is all about supply and demand and there was no supply and high demand.
Superbad
Obs price didn’t age well
When I sheeted the outside of the building it was 7.60 a sheet bulk price....it went all the way up to 50 here is ohio...it has since came back down to 29.50....silly.
wow i can see why you only insulated for 3 yrs..you wouldnthave made it 3 weeks with us.. R 19 turns into R 21 how??? haha! you compressed it LOSING R VALUE ...u have fg going OVER the horizontal studs ..AND you did NOTHING about filling the gaps behind the studs! the air movement alone will REDUCE the r value to about 14 at best. wow.. so sad.
ROCK WOOL BETTER
Personal preference....I use to install rock wool between units in multi unit condos. It performs great for sound purposes. For my application, price is a factor and fiberglass is definitely cheaper.
Yeah I don't understand why anyone would use fiberglass, considering the majority of the cost for insulation installation is labor / time. Also if fiberglass gets wet you have to basically tear down the wall and re-install it. Mineral Wool is just better.
@@Lolatyou332 if your insulation is getting wet you have alot of other worries.
@@HermanWoodworks Just because there are more problems doesn't mean that the problem is not effectively multiplied because of the insulation getting wet and becoming useless.
There could be a simple leak around a rain gutter that can be easily repaired, but because fiberglass insulation was chosen, now a section of a walls insulation has become useless and needs to be replaced.
Mineral wool insulation would just allow you to allow the water to diffuse out through an external moisture barrier without any real long-term issues, as long as the leak was addressed in an appropriate amount of time.
Less talk and more work.
All the annoying droning on isn't helpful, too much empty talk. He says he did insulation for three years, "But I'm not an expert..." OK, I'll find a video from an expert. Thanks.
Ryan Gosling ?