Great video, very informative. I have some questions, theyre probably super basic. What mig wire size and gas? What were you doing g with the blow torch and lazer temp?
Great questions! 1) in this video, I’m using .030 ER70S-6 MIG wire. When welding something of this thickness, choose either a .030 or .035 wire because .025 is too thin for the thickness of steel you’ll be welding. And I am welding with a 25% CO2/Argon mix gas. The standard for MIG welding. 2) what I am doing with the torch is preheating the cast steel up to 350° before welding, then after completing my welds, I am monitoring the temperature on and around the welded area to make sure they are cooling at a similar rate. Add heat where needed to make sure they are cooling evenly and this process keeps the welds from cracking. If you allow the welded area to cool rapidly at different rates, the welds are very likely to crack. This is only applicable to the places where you are welding cast and mild steel together. The tubes of your axle weld very easy since the metals are the same as your truss. I hope this helps.
I actually appreciate you coming back with questions. I’m happy to answer. We DID use the supplied track bar bracket. We mounted it in the recommended location (lining up the intentions in the new bracket with the current bolt holes for the steering box. The only issue we came upon was that the massive pitman arm of the PSC Big Bore that is in this JKU would hit the new bracket at full lock to driver. What we did was cut back the bracket on the forward section where the pitman arm would hit it to give clearance. And to help secure the bracket, I welded it inside and outside so it is held in with double welds. But it all worked out very well. And for track bar, this Jeep was already upgraded with the JKU steer smarts track bar. This bar worked perfectly with the new axle. I don’t believe we have had any interference issues with it yet and this is a very beefy bar.
CORRECTION: I talked to the owner of that Jeep and he says that at full compression on the trail, it does contact the diff housing. Not sure what the next bar is going to be. We may be making a custom track bar in its place.
@mudtiremedia are you saying the trackbar is hitting the diff? Good to know! I was running the synergy bar and brace. Hopefully the synergy will work, if not I'll have to make one somehow. I'm not running the psc box thank God. Lol as I have a v8 swap in the future and I read they don't fit with the big bore. How about that 14b. Did you ever get the rear pinion guard to work?
@@zxtuner4lyfe correct, the track bar is currently making contact with the top of the carrier housing of the diff at full compression. This is likely due to the fact that we did push the front axle forward a few extra inches when we did this swap. It would likely clear with no issue if we hadnt done that, but he wanted the front tires to push past the front bumper as much as possible for clearance when climbing up walls. And as far as the rear pinion guard, he has not come back yet to finish that so i havent been able to reinstall that part. we bolted the rear truss in place using the bolt on plate that comes with the rear kit for the time being. I had already taken measurements and believe we have it all figured out. just waiting to get the jeep back over to the shop for more work. But i will mention that since his swap, we have yet to have a pinion touch an obstacle.
@@mudtiremedia found a friend who knows how and another that has the material! Will definitely try and learn but I am going to let them handle this because I don’t want a bad weld to be the reason I have some freak crash
Hello from Ukraine! Thanks! Cool videos!!!
On a roll!
Thanks! I’m trying to steadily push them out to practice getting better with content.
Very interesting video! Very Informative!
Thanks Casey!
Great video! Super informative! 🤘
Thanks! I really appreciate the comment.
Awesome videos and subscribed! I just ordered my Motobilt SD60/14B and currently on the hunt for the axles
Thank you! It is appreciated more than you know! Be sure to come back and update me with how it goes! Your going to love the 1 ton life!!
Great video, very informative. I have some questions, theyre probably super basic.
What mig wire size and gas?
What were you doing g with the blow torch and lazer temp?
Great questions!
1) in this video, I’m using .030 ER70S-6 MIG wire. When welding something of this thickness, choose either a .030 or .035 wire because .025 is too thin for the thickness of steel you’ll be welding. And I am welding with a 25% CO2/Argon mix gas. The standard for MIG welding.
2) what I am doing with the torch is preheating the cast steel up to 350° before welding, then after completing my welds, I am monitoring the temperature on and around the welded area to make sure they are cooling at a similar rate. Add heat where needed to make sure they are cooling evenly and this process keeps the welds from cracking.
If you allow the welded area to cool rapidly at different rates, the welds are very likely to crack. This is only applicable to the places where you are welding cast and mild steel together. The tubes of your axle weld very easy since the metals are the same as your truss.
I hope this helps.
Next question. Did you use the trackbar bracket? Any issues with it? What bar you use?
I actually appreciate you coming back with questions. I’m happy to answer. We DID use the supplied track bar bracket. We mounted it in the recommended location (lining up the intentions in the new bracket with the current bolt holes for the steering box. The only issue we came upon was that the massive pitman arm of the PSC Big Bore that is in this JKU would hit the new bracket at full lock to driver. What we did was cut back the bracket on the forward section where the pitman arm would hit it to give clearance. And to help secure the bracket, I welded it inside and outside so it is held in with double welds. But it all worked out very well.
And for track bar, this Jeep was already upgraded with the JKU steer smarts track bar. This bar worked perfectly with the new axle. I don’t believe we have had any interference issues with it yet and this is a very beefy bar.
CORRECTION: I talked to the owner of that Jeep and he says that at full compression on the trail, it does contact the diff housing. Not sure what the next bar is going to be. We may be making a custom track bar in its place.
@mudtiremedia are you saying the trackbar is hitting the diff? Good to know! I was running the synergy bar and brace. Hopefully the synergy will work, if not I'll have to make one somehow. I'm not running the psc box thank God. Lol as I have a v8 swap in the future and I read they don't fit with the big bore.
How about that 14b. Did you ever get the rear pinion guard to work?
@@zxtuner4lyfe correct, the track bar is currently making contact with the top of the carrier housing of the diff at full compression. This is likely due to the fact that we did push the front axle forward a few extra inches when we did this swap. It would likely clear with no issue if we hadnt done that, but he wanted the front tires to push past the front bumper as much as possible for clearance when climbing up walls. And as far as the rear pinion guard, he has not come back yet to finish that so i havent been able to reinstall that part. we bolted the rear truss in place using the bolt on plate that comes with the rear kit for the time being. I had already taken measurements and believe we have it all figured out. just waiting to get the jeep back over to the shop for more work. But i will mention that since his swap, we have yet to have a pinion touch an obstacle.
Hey I just made a YT short to show you where he is having contact. I hope this helps! Sorry for all the back and forth confusion.
So not knowing how to weld makes this job impossible?
Sadly, yes. If you don’t know how to weld, you’ll have to pay a welder to do the work. But there’s always time to learn!
@@mudtiremedia found a friend who knows how and another that has the material! Will definitely try and learn but I am going to let them handle this because I don’t want a bad weld to be the reason I have some freak crash