How to test Digital or Analog Mass Air Flow (MAF) Sensor, With or Without wiring diagram, 3-5 wire
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- Опубліковано 4 січ 2022
- In this video I am going to give you guys tips and tricks about the Mass Air Flow (MAF) sensor, explain how to test them with wiring diagram and also without it, explain how it works, show how many kinds of sensors are out there, how to tell the difference between them and how to test each one of them.
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Excellent diag explanation 👏
Great content 👏🏻
Thank you 😊
Well done great job
Thank you 😊
Well done
Thank you :)
Hi, I am in the process of repairing the mass air flow sensor connector wiring. As a result of the mice messing around, I cut the wires off the connector side, leaving approximately two inches for each wire attached to the connector. I thought each wire was a different color, but I was surprised to find two wires of the same color. I drive a 2006 Infiniti M35 with a maf sensor that has 5 wires in this order from left to right: red, black/white, white, yellow/green, black/white, so I connected the 3 different colored wires and was left confused about the two Of the same color. I tried connecting this to this and vice versa and I did not feel any difference. I also tested them with a multimeter and they both gave the same measurement. So if you have any idea or suggestion that can help, I would be appreciative. thank you
Great video! Please help me out. A 1999 Toyota Avalon car with a v6 engine that cranked but wasn't starting.
After engine rebuild and gear oil replaced . While test driving by the engineer , smoke started emanating from the engine bay. Precisely, from the fan relay that the car owner connected by himself. Within few minutes, the car shutdown by itself as if fuel is finished.
Presently, it's a crank a crank no start, no spark, no injector pulse, check engine light staying ON with ECU connected or removed.
I tried to scan for DTC codes, but my scanner wasn't communicating. I checked all fuses, power and ground at obd port, those checked ok. but my scanner isn't compatible to read CAN network. There are only 4 wires intact for the obd2 port.
Furthermore, I added fuel through the intake to the engine, no change at all. I checked for spark and injector pulse. These things weren't present. But there was power to injector with just the key at ignition or ACC and COP had 1 ground and 1 power as usual.
With the ECU removed battery connected, Engine light would come ON. with ECU connected check light still comes ON.
Before I left, I checked the MAF sensor 5 wires and noticed that 3 wires were earth instead of 2 and 1 power; no ignition current/ power was available for the remaining 2 wires.
Please, what should I do
to get this car running again?
Thank you and good job.
I heard a tech telling about the 3 wire maf sensor :
- connector disconnected
- engine power on
- he measured about 5v to the signal wire. Its a digital one.
I dont understand because i think that we can only read voltage in case the connector is plugged.
Can you help me to understand ?
That’s correct, you can measure voltage to the power line but signal is what comes out of the part and the only way to measure signal is either with a Y connector or backprobing it
Great engineer, please help me out.
Recently, a client called me to fix his 2000 Toyota Avalon car that cranked but wasn't starting.
From the onset, the car experienced several mechanical, as well as, electrical issues. Some of those problems were:-
(1) Engine Oil consumption;
(2) Engine misfire;
(3) Engine rattling;
(4) Intermittent hard starting after shutdown;
(5) Hard to engage in drive, except engine is hot; etc.
Hence, he took the car to a garage inorder to rectify the excessive Engine oil consumption and other car problems highlighted above. Consequently, the car problems exacerbated after engine rebuild by the engineer!
The car owner wasn't satisfied with his repairs because it seems the engineer was deceitful. Although the car started after the rebuild, the problems still persisted. Valves weren't grinded after engine overhaul, engine still misfired at idle and when accelerating, etc.
The engineer whose garage the car is presently being parked, requested for another engine overhau/ rebuildl. After engine rebuild the car started, the oil was mixed with water; the engine was still misfiring, rattling, etc. It was obvious, that he didn't use durable parts to do his work.
Hence, the car owner moved the car to another garage for better repairs. The new garage suggested to the car owner that another engine rebuild is pertinent for optimal engine operation.
During my conversation with this engineer, whose garage the car is presently being parked, he told me that: "when the car was first brought in, he noticed a black smoke ( maybe he was mistaken for blue smoke, at exhaust tail at idle). When accelerating, there's a loss of power, engine bucking, popping,etc. After the rebuild, the car didn't start because the mechanic didn't unlock the car with the remote but proceeded directly to cranking the engine. In addition, the security relay wasn't actuated for starting to take place. Electrician did some wire cutting around that axis which he said was corrected to factory, opened with a remote before the car started.
Fortunately, after everything, the car started again. But there was still an intermittent misfire. What the car owner said was that, 'even when the second mechanic did engine rebuild, the car still misfired. Until he personally bypassed earth from the COP wire to the solenoids very close to the fuel injector often tightened with 10mm knot and depicted with blue and green colors on the picture. Car owner verified that the reasons for the misfire from both mechanics which still prevailed, was due to the solenoid valve that wasn't opening. That's why when accelerating it experienced a loss of power, similar to that experienced by a faulty fuel pump.
After gear oil replacement and test driven by the second mechanic , smoke started emanating from the engine bay. Precisely, from the fan relay that the car owner connected by himself. Within few minutes, the car shutdown by itself as if fuel is finished. As he tried to restart it, the car refused to. Infact, when the ignition switch was turned to Acc/ ignition position, battery and fuel light was not displaying in the dashboard/ instrument cluster. However, during cranking battery light glew faintly and start. But when throttled, it would shutdown. Electrician verified and replaced the alternator diode with a new one. When Ignition switch was turned to Acc/ ignition position, the battery and other lights came out brightly but when cranked to start engine wouldn't start again. Sadly, it still wouldn't start.
I tried to scan for DTC codes, but my scanner wasn't communicating. I checked all fuses, power and ground at obd port, those checked ok. but my scanner isn't compatible to read CAN network. there are only 4 wires intact for the obd2 port.
Furthermore, I added fuel through the intake to the engine, no change at all. I checked for spark and injector pulse. These things weren't present. But there was power to injector with just the key at ignition or ACC and COP had 1 ground and 1 power as usual.
Electrician from that garage, who also worked on the car said that he sniffed burning smell from the ECU, however personally I didn't when I went to start the car. I don't know how certain that was. Hence, I pulled out the ECU to a laptop board engineer to test the components inside. He said: "everything looks ok and test fine, however the IC he doesn't have the right tools to proceed with the test. With the ECU removed battery connected, Engine light would come ON. with ECU connected check light still comes ON.
Before I left, I checked the MAF sensor 5 wires and noticed that 3 wires were earth instead of 2 and 1 power; no ignition current/ power was available for the remaining 2 wires.
Please, what should I do to start the car?
Great job! Maybe I have got one question. Does the MAF sensor any range of voltage min-max? if I understand right, from the voltage depends the volume of air going as a information to the ECU. Why do I aks: I tried 2 MAF sensors in my Toyota Yaris 1,33 VVTi year 2009. The first one works from ca. 1,4 g/sec of air do max. ca 30 g/s. But the car is lazy and lose the power by higher RPM. The second MAF sensor works from ca. 1,4 g/s to ca. 170 g/s! It jumps to 170 g/s only by acceleration. The car runs much better but only for a while. After few minutes the car goes to the "safe mode", no power and on neutral the RPM goes down to 100-200 RPM and the motor stops... Maybe both are wrong, maybe the problem is not MAF sensor :) Thx!
I would check the exhaust, it sounds like it may be clogged. You can either disconnect the exhaust and drive or check the back pressure. Regarding the MAF sensor they do read differently as you push on the accelerator
How much color does mass signal wire have to identify all mass type because my type of color or blue and white mix orange and purple and white mix black and cream I want to know which color is it
That’s a good question but it is different color code for different vehicles and brands. For that you will have to access the wiring diagram to identify which one is which
What would cause multiple ones failing..I have had 5 in 12 months..start car and failed.
You probably have wiring issues. Maybe shorted to power, just check each wire
high voltage interference from coil and spark-plug...
solution,, making "shielded" on cable MAF_sensor,, make from internal cable copper,, turn arround the maf_cable,, leave end point near sensor(not connect to anything),, and connect another end point into chassis ground...
What if maf is 0.
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Hello, my friend, I have a MAF sensor that has 5 wires, but the output shows the same voltage as the input 12 volts, can you help me, this is the model.Siemens VDO 5WK9 6431