@oscarvazquez6584 Not yet, still butthole deep in snow and cold. When I happen to get out there I'm gonna check the coil first. It just seems odd that it ran great, and didn't drive it for 2 or 3 weeks and act up like this. Probably the damn squirrels and chipmunks chewin somethin up. Good luck to you, I'll let you know if I have any luck myself.
My Honda J-series engine (2007 V6) has rough idle and sometimes misfire DTC. I noticed that the idling engine "Intake manifold absolute pressure" is around 27 kPa. During normal highway driving at constant speed, I see fast fluctuations without reason (going up to 75 kPa or 85 kPa for a fraction of a section and then drop to around 27 kPa). When engine is not not running, I get 100 kPa (close to 1 atm), My LTFT is +14% or sometimes +20%. Is my MAP sensor bad? If so, why do I get 100 kPa and 27 kPa which are considered normal for non-running engine and idling engine? Overall fuel economy is around 20 mpg on par with similar cars. I hope someone can shed a light on this. Thanks.
I did a computer relearn after cleaning mine. Took about 50 miles of a semi limp mode to calibrate itself. I'd recommend looking into how you initiate a relearn in your vehicle. With mine, I had to do some specific presses on the start button to initiate it.
What Causes the P0299 Error? Unlike symptoms, the potential causes of the P0299 code are numerous. So far we’ve only hinted at a catastrophic turbo failure as a cause, but there are several other reasons why you might be losing boost and some of them have nothing to do with the mechanical integrity of your turbo or supercharger. Here’s a list of things that could cause this error: Turbo/Supercharger damage Boost leak Bad boost pressure sensor (MAP) Bad wastegate/wastegate actuator Bad boost controller
No reset possible. The type of code it is requires you to fix the issue and then your cars computer will automatically clear it. If it doesn't go away, check your codes again to ensure you fixed it.
Below are the approx math figures of MAF values, for my 1.8 litre supercharge engine, running at manifold pressure at 0 psi. 3000rpm = 41 g/sec, 2500rpm = 34g/second, 2000rpm = 27g/second, 1500rpm = 20g/second. These MAF values can increase by 1.5 times when supercharger kick in an ramps up manifold pressure to 8psi. These figures is on a sticker which I place on the dashboard for occasional quick check when I put the car on auto cruise mode to required rpm. Whenever the manifold pressure is within -0.5 to +0.5psi the MAF readout given out by OBD2 matches closely with these value value. The on-the-dashboard mounted OBD2 could could also show throttle body position, IAF, injection advance, short or long fuel trim, etc etc. At hot engine idling rpm of 750, without air conditioner switch on, on P position, the MAF is about 4.5 to 4.7g/second vs throttle body at 14.9% open vs MAP at -7.3psi. This value is useful if there is a partial vacuum leak or MAF is dirty etc etc. BTW, to me, this video is really not deep enough for it to be really useful to anyone.
Great fantastic very good
Thank you! Cheers!
Good job🤝💯🔥💪👍
Thanks 🔥
Does petrol engines also have an maf sensor?
Yes
No check engine light, idles fine, only when I gun it, it bogs. If I slowly give it gas I have no problem. Thoughts?
Did you ever figure it out? I'm having the same issue but drive slow and it runs fine.
@oscarvazquez6584 Not yet, still butthole deep in snow and cold. When I happen to get out there I'm gonna check the coil first. It just seems odd that it ran great, and didn't drive it for 2 or 3 weeks and act up like this. Probably the damn squirrels and chipmunks chewin somethin up. Good luck to you, I'll let you know if I have any luck myself.
Very helpful
Glad it helped
Great news
hi map sensor issue,car runs smoothly when sensor is not plugged in
My Honda J-series engine (2007 V6) has rough idle and sometimes misfire DTC. I noticed that the idling engine "Intake manifold absolute pressure" is around 27 kPa. During normal highway driving at constant speed, I see fast fluctuations without reason (going up to 75 kPa or 85 kPa for a fraction of a section and then drop to around 27 kPa). When engine is not not running, I get 100 kPa (close to 1 atm), My LTFT is +14% or sometimes +20%. Is my MAP sensor bad? If so, why do I get 100 kPa and 27 kPa which are considered normal for non-running engine and idling engine?
Overall fuel economy is around 20 mpg on par with similar cars. I hope someone can shed a light on this. Thanks.
Hi there!I have got exactly the same situation with my car.Was it the map sensor?Thanks in advance!
I juat changed mine, do you need to drove a few miles for it to adjust?
I did a computer relearn after cleaning mine. Took about 50 miles of a semi limp mode to calibrate itself. I'd recommend looking into how you initiate a relearn in your vehicle. With mine, I had to do some specific presses on the start button to initiate it.
Damm Rick and his air fuel mix. Knock it off Rick dmmmit 😂
What Causes the P0299 Error?
Unlike symptoms, the potential causes of the P0299 code are numerous. So far we’ve only hinted at a catastrophic turbo failure as a cause, but there are several other reasons why you might be losing boost and some of them have nothing to do with the mechanical integrity of your turbo or supercharger. Here’s a list of things that could cause this error:
Turbo/Supercharger damage
Boost leak
Bad boost pressure sensor (MAP)
Bad wastegate/wastegate actuator
Bad boost controller
You've said it all sir ... Well done 👏
Nothing helpful in comment area? Do we need to caliberate after? And how to?
No reset possible. The type of code it is requires you to fix the issue and then your cars computer will automatically clear it. If it doesn't go away, check your codes again to ensure you fixed it.
👍🏾👍🏾👍🏾🔥🔥🔥
🔥
Below are the approx math figures of MAF values, for my 1.8 litre supercharge engine, running at manifold pressure at 0 psi.
3000rpm = 41 g/sec, 2500rpm = 34g/second, 2000rpm = 27g/second, 1500rpm = 20g/second. These MAF values can increase by 1.5 times when supercharger kick in an ramps up manifold pressure to 8psi.
These figures is on a sticker which I place on the dashboard for occasional quick check when I put the car on auto cruise mode to required rpm. Whenever the manifold pressure is within -0.5 to +0.5psi the MAF readout given out by OBD2 matches closely with these value value.
The on-the-dashboard mounted OBD2 could could also show throttle body position, IAF, injection advance, short or long fuel trim, etc etc.
At hot engine idling rpm of 750, without air conditioner switch on, on P position, the MAF is about 4.5 to 4.7g/second vs throttle body at 14.9% open vs MAP at -7.3psi. This value is useful if there is a partial vacuum leak or MAF is dirty etc etc.
BTW, to me, this video is really not deep enough for it to be really useful to anyone.