I was always taught that the addition of phosphorus to cast iron tends to mess with the grain structures and makes the parts a bit weaker than normal, and the addition of it is usually what you see in import cast iron now because it just helps the iron flow better so they get less failures, but also makes for what we know as chinese iron.
@@luckygen1001 thank you so much for the advice. I think that tomorrow I'll try with ferrosilicon. Will be my second pour. I'm nervous hehe. Best regards
Good to see another video from you luckygen1001, and a very interesting video it is. I read below that you recently visited olfoundryman, could we be in luck for a joint video?
It is a very common chart that is in every foundry books and metallurgy books. It is called a iron carbon phase diragram and it shows the melting point of iron changes when the carbon content changes.
Hello, I see you use an interesting technique to introduce pieces of iron into the melt. You have some sort of wire? Does this melt once hitting the melt and thus release the iron? Or do you have some sort of hook that you flick off at the right point?
It is copper wire of the right thickness so it gives you enough time to add another piece of iron before it melts. The wire comes from an alternator field windings.
I don't think there is any alternative, look up cast metal services online that is where I got my coal dust from. If you leave out the coal dust it just means you get a rougher surface on your castings.
luckygen1001 ya that's basically exactly what I want to make with it. I have never gotten my forge to run totally reliably long enough to try and hit the temperatures needed for it. It will run amazing one day and not at all the next.
Is there a chance to find such low melting point cast iron alloy ready for melting on scrap yard? Or it must be first melted in 1250C and after that You can add phospor? Copper is so expensive that cast iron with similar melting temperature could be great alternative
Jump-cut just as you left view at 3:52, by the reduction on colour of the furnace I would say you sliced out about 3-5 mins but as the camera moved it could be thats its a 2nd take from that point. So what was poured is the same melt?
G'day sir. If I wanted to make a waffle iron (out of cast iron), would it be easier to cast them in sand, or is there a type of durable mold I could use that could replicate the iron?
@@luckygen1001 got it. And do you happen to know if cast iron is food safe after it comes “out of the oven?” Or do manufacturers put something into/onto it? Thanks for your correspondence.
Most of olfoundrymans molds have risers to feed the castings, these are not used as air vents. He sometimes uses air vents by pushing a thin wire into the sand because his sand is so much finer than mine.
I go to foundry auctions and buy stuff really cheap. Buying small amounts is always going to difficult from suppliers. If you live near a foundry you could buy small amounts from them.
@@luckygen1001 Lucky, thanks for the offer. I will be brilely in Melbourne in early December. Hoping to find time to see Martin. If you wish, we can pick up that stuff from any place you designate then.
I have two questions, first, would this Ferro phosphorus be added towards the end of the melt and if so, would it be put in a ladle after a melt if one were using a cupola. the reason I am asking is a buddy of mine had this exact discussion Saturday
Most additives are put at the end of a melt because they oxidize so much. If you add them at the start of a melt a lot or all of it will burn so your recovery rate will be very poor. Ferro phosphorus is one additive that I am not sure about so I added it at the end of a melt. With cupola melting most additives are put in the ladle just before pouring.
luckygen1001 thanks, I thought so. I designed a planter that has very thin walls, wasn't my best idea but lesson learned. My furnace apparently gets it up to a higher temps than the cupola because I can completely fill the mold, the cupola can't and this stuff sounds ideal for them. Thanks for introducing me to this.
luckygen1001 I have read about German cast iron jewelry in the 1850's that required phosphorus to allow for fluidity in fine detail. If you havent seen any you should google it, pretty amazing stuff. I assume the tensile strength drops significantly, would you know?
While I was visiting olfoundryman he showed me on his computer Jewellery that was made from cast iron. It was amazing just how thin those castings were. I broke the leftover ingots to see how tough they were, they were a little bit weaker than normal cast iron. The more you add the castings would a lot weaker but cosmetic castings don't need great strength.
luckygen1001 I'm glad to see you and Martin get together. maybe one day I'll get to meet you guys, I hope so. Yes, this jewelry blew me away, never thought detail that defined could be achieved in iron. On another note, I found some Ferro phosphous here in the states yesterday, they only sell it by the ton. I was told to get what I want so I may a road trip Saturday,
another awesome video, can you share the name and author of that book?... also i recently saw something ua-cam.com/video/ZIiN3UNECfY/v-deo.html using ferro magnesium to up the quality, i believe it was in making ductile iron, for public works... a venerable US shop and crew... imagine that would be a way to affordably get the temp to make more proper steels...or even a variant of CPM steels...without being the owner of a nuclear power plant hehe...i dunno.. been thinking about the tilting furnace to ladle design ua-cam.com/video/mue3mIf9djY/v-deo.html with a few of modifications; to try and get there... you have any thoughts on it? I think you are living a lot of our dreams lol.... must have felt great to see that casting come out like that.... IRON!!! i have some experience as a machinist, edu as a gunsmith etc...molten lead is not a new thing for me, but just built my first blacksmithing forge, the foundry is still a ways off i think, but will get there; thanks again for teaching and sharing.
Thanks for that info on the book, and the thoughts on the furnace. I was thinking of different materials to line the furnace and the spout... seems he is using that burner design to ensure no contaminants, from the fuel, end up directly in the melt; since he must feed it from above instead of below with a crucible furnace.... Was thinking you could possibly make that burner design into a small kiln to prep small investment casting shells..or to preheat crucibles bleeding off some of that heat... but obviously it would be a heck of a juggling act to get it right and consistent .. .. unless you could afford to throw tons of high cost fuel at it guess.... the design of the cupola, i know you are experienced with,... the only book i have read on it suggested setting up a ducting system that wrapped around the stack to preheat the air... may be able to get away with a lower temp burner/kiln and then raising the temp the rest of the way in a stack similar to a cupola.. safely .. probably not safely without some serious thought. if titanium continues to be more affordable and available i think a lot more possibilities will be there, in ensuring a safely rigid casing for something like that... but my lack of experience may be driving that thought. i've never walked up and kicked a clay and steel furnace at iron melting temp to see if it broke up or fell in on itself... have seen a video of a big one melting down though... fairly sure i wouldn't want to test it, haha I'm still a ways out from being able to work on mine..... but i bet you are geared up and knowledgeable enough to get pretty carried away with it.. if you try, please post a vid ... would love to see it.. certainly love to hear your thoughts on any of it.
I was always taught that the addition of phosphorus to cast iron tends to mess with the grain structures and makes the parts a bit weaker than normal, and the addition of it is usually what you see in import cast iron now because it just helps the iron flow better so they get less failures, but also makes for what we know as chinese iron.
Great stuff Luckygen. I always learn new things watching your videos. Thanks for sharing. Oh, and I have serious furnace envy.
Come over to Australia and I will give you a tour of my foundry.
I love the pattern! And congrats!
I love the result... Now I have my ferrosilicon traveling to my home. Maybe I need to buy ferrophosphor. Thanks for the video as always
Be aware that it weakens cast iron. It is only used to make it more fluid for decorative castings.
@@luckygen1001 thank you so much for the advice. I think that tomorrow I'll try with ferrosilicon. Will be my second pour. I'm nervous hehe. Best regards
love your videos, hope you can at least upgrade to 360p. A ultra budget $150 android phone would be able to shoot in 720p
Hey, another great informative video! I can only dream of doing CI. Have got up to Brass so far. Looking forward to your next vid. Cheers!
Thanks for the great videos you make.
Hi. I just found your channel Very interesting and lots of information for future castings I'm planning. Thank you, and subscribed!
Would be interesting to know how far one could lower the melting point of cast iron by adding phosphorus. Is there a practical limit?
There is a limit and it is called a eutectic point and all alloys have that point.
Good to see another video from you luckygen1001, and a very interesting video it is. I read below that you recently visited olfoundryman, could we be in luck for a joint video?
I'm guessing the name of the book where you found that table, and the information to lower the melting point the cast iron?
It is a very common chart that is in every foundry books and metallurgy books. It is called a iron carbon phase diragram and it shows the melting point of iron changes when the carbon content changes.
As usual great video thanks
Thank you from Russia! It is real old shcool!
Thankyou!
Hello, I see you use an interesting technique to introduce pieces of iron into the melt. You have some sort of wire? Does this melt once hitting the melt and thus release the iron? Or do you have some sort of hook that you flick off at the right point?
It is copper wire of the right thickness so it gives you enough time to add another piece of iron before it melts. The wire comes from an alternator field windings.
GREAT VIDEOS! Lots of good info. Are you in Australia? I'm in South Carolina, the US
yes.
Nice little tip there
Thank you for watching my latest video.
You do great work. A question about coal dust in greensand. I'm from Australia and I can't find any sources. Is there any alternative?
I don't think there is any alternative, look up cast metal services online that is where I got my coal dust from. If you leave out the coal dust it just means you get a rougher surface on your castings.
I just remembered petrobond sand can be used with cast iron although it can be very expensive.
Think I've seen someone use sodium silicate to get finer details as well, I think they cast a domino set.
Nice job. I like the pair of plinths stuck to your crucible. I bet that dude is heavy. No iron for me. Bronze is as hot as I go. :-/
Were you in the navy years ago?
Will lpg get hot enough for casting iron , i intend on making scale steam train parts all going well cheers tj ps i brought a suitable regulator 👍
You do this so well I'm wondering if you do this for a living.
Just a hobby.
But you certainly could make a living of it if you wanted, right?
No I cannot because not many people want to pay for custom castings.
Even on Ebay? that sucks... All this talent going to waste...
I love your videos very interesting
Thank you for watching my lastest video. Are you thinking of casting gun parts?
oh no i just love metal work in all its forms :) i would love to try to cast some cast iron for some tools i would love to make :)
That is why I love cast iron so much, I have made vee blocks and faceplates for lathes plus others that I can't remember right now.
luckygen1001 ya that's basically exactly what I want to make with it. I have never gotten my forge to run totally reliably long enough to try and hit the temperatures needed for it. It will run amazing one day and not at all the next.
Is there a chance to find such low melting point cast iron alloy ready for melting on scrap yard? Or it must be first melted in 1250C and after that You can add phospor?
Copper is so expensive that cast iron with similar melting temperature could be great alternative
Yes you can, just look for iron lacework that is on the sides of buildings. It has a lower melting point than normal cast iron but it is very brittle.
Have you ever considered heat up the entire mold in an oven before casting?
Yes I have and it is more trouble than it is worth.
Ok, it was a great solution to out discrete process, sorry I mentioned it.
Jump-cut just as you left view at 3:52, by the reduction on colour of the furnace I would say you sliced out about 3-5 mins but as the camera moved it could be thats its a 2nd take from that point. So what was poured is the same melt?
It takes time to shift the camera from one position to another also ceramic fibre cools down very fast.
The two positions at the time index I indicate must have been less than an inch.
G'day sir. If I wanted to make a waffle iron (out of cast iron), would it be easier to cast them in sand, or is there a type of durable mold I could use that could replicate the iron?
Sand is the easiest option.
@@luckygen1001 got it. And do you happen to know if cast iron is food safe after it comes “out of the oven?” Or do manufacturers put something into/onto it? Thanks for your correspondence.
@@Graeberwave I believe that cast iron frying pans need a coating of oil before use.
@@luckygen1001 indeed, and I got that covered no problem. Can’t wait to try this out
Hi, where can i get the Ferro Phosphorus in small quantity ?
I'm learning a lot with your videos
Best regards
Go to foundry closing down auctions, I get so many of my must have things from them.
Hi, what do you think about oldfoundryman mold venting method. He is using two vents on each mold.
Kind regards
Most of olfoundrymans molds have risers to feed the castings, these are not used as air vents. He sometimes uses air vents by pushing a thin wire into the sand because his sand is so much finer than mine.
Great information and videos. Thanks. Where do you buy your various additives? I'm ideally looking for a supplier in Vic for hobby level quantities.
I go to foundry auctions and buy stuff really cheap. Buying small amounts is always going to difficult from suppliers. If you live near a foundry you could buy small amounts from them.
@@luckygen1001 Lucky, do you know any suppliers of Ferro Phosphorous? Here, in Darwin we have no foundry.
@@VladekR I have plenty could give you a few kgs for free.
@@luckygen1001 Lucky, thanks for the offer. I will be brilely in Melbourne in early December. Hoping to find time to see Martin. If you wish, we can pick up that stuff from any place you designate then.
@@VladekR Sounds good, put a comment on this video about two weeks before you come.
I have two questions, first, would this Ferro phosphorus be added towards the end of the melt and if so, would it be put in a ladle after a melt if one were using a cupola. the reason I am asking is a buddy of mine had this exact discussion Saturday
Most additives are put at the end of a melt because they oxidize so much. If you add them at the start of a melt a lot or all of it will burn so your recovery rate will be very poor. Ferro phosphorus is one additive that I am not sure about so I added it at the end of a melt. With cupola melting most additives are put in the ladle just before pouring.
luckygen1001 thanks, I thought so. I designed a planter that has very thin walls, wasn't my best idea but lesson learned. My furnace apparently gets it up to a higher temps than the cupola because I can completely fill the mold, the cupola can't and this stuff sounds ideal for them. Thanks for introducing me to this.
luckygen1001 I have read about German cast iron jewelry in the 1850's that required phosphorus to allow for fluidity in fine detail. If you havent seen any you should google it, pretty amazing stuff. I assume the tensile strength drops significantly, would you know?
While I was visiting olfoundryman he showed me on his computer Jewellery that was made from cast iron. It was amazing just how thin those castings were. I broke the leftover ingots to see how tough they were, they were a little bit weaker than normal cast iron. The more you add the castings would a lot weaker but cosmetic castings don't need great strength.
luckygen1001 I'm glad to see you and Martin get together. maybe one day I'll get to meet you guys, I hope so. Yes, this jewelry blew me away, never thought detail that defined could be achieved in iron. On another note, I found some Ferro phosphous here in the states yesterday, they only sell it by the ton. I was told to get what I want so I may a road trip Saturday,
Can the melting point of brass be lowered by any chance
Up to a point, you need to have a look at a copper/zinc phase diragram to see where the lowest melting point is.
when you do a melt ruffle how much propane did you go through before you added the oil tank
Propane preheat runs for 1-2 minutes so it uses very little propane.
مرحبا اريد صنع فرن سعته 1طن فبما تنصحني
Why dont you use air preheater any more?
Works better without it.
Giday mate, is there any way to get in contact with you to get some custom castings done, Cheers Matt
I don't do custom castings for others but you should checkout "olfoundryman" channel he does custom castings for others and he is in Melbourne.
what is your source for the ferro phosphorous in Oz
Cast metal supplies in Melbourne. I think they have moved from their Dandenong south premises.
This was posted on 911🤔🤔🤔
Man I coud use that recipe to make cast iron pan??
Yes you can.
Where you can buy ferro phosphorus?
A foundry supplier will have it.
can you suggest a good book for knowing this stuff
You have to read a lot of books to get this information. Look up C.W.Ammen he has a lot of books.
ok thank you for your time .
another awesome video, can you share the name and author of that book?...
also i recently saw something ua-cam.com/video/ZIiN3UNECfY/v-deo.html using ferro magnesium to up the quality, i believe it was in making ductile iron, for public works... a venerable US shop and crew... imagine that would be a way to affordably get the temp to make more proper steels...or even a variant of CPM steels...without being the owner of a nuclear power plant hehe...i dunno.. been thinking about the tilting furnace to ladle design ua-cam.com/video/mue3mIf9djY/v-deo.html with a few of modifications; to try and get there... you have any thoughts on it?
I think you are living a lot of our dreams lol.... must have felt great to see that casting come out like that.... IRON!!! i have some experience as a machinist, edu as a gunsmith etc...molten lead is not a new thing for me, but just built my first blacksmithing forge, the foundry is still a ways off i think, but will get there; thanks again for teaching and sharing.
The book is called "Materials for engineering: concepts and applications" By Lawrence H. Van Vlack. Addison-Wesley publishing company.
That tilting furnace would be ok to melt aluminium but the burner would not last long at iron melting temperatures.
Thanks for that info on the book, and the thoughts on the furnace. I was thinking of different materials to line the furnace and the spout...
seems he is using that burner design to ensure no contaminants, from the fuel, end up directly in the melt; since he must feed it from above instead of below with a crucible furnace....
Was thinking you could possibly make that burner design into a small kiln to prep small investment casting shells..or to preheat crucibles bleeding off some of that heat... but obviously it would be a heck of a juggling act to get it right and consistent .. .. unless you could afford to throw tons of high cost fuel at it guess....
the design of the cupola, i know you are experienced with,... the only book i have read on it suggested setting up a ducting system that wrapped around the stack to preheat the air... may be able to get away with a lower temp burner/kiln and then raising the temp the rest of the way in a stack similar to a cupola.. safely .. probably not safely without some serious thought.
if titanium continues to be more affordable and available i think a lot more possibilities will be there, in ensuring a safely rigid casing for something like that... but my lack of experience may be driving that thought. i've never walked up and kicked a clay and steel furnace at iron melting temp to see if it broke up or fell in on itself... have seen a video of a big one melting down though... fairly sure i wouldn't want to test it, haha
I'm still a ways out from being able to work on mine..... but i bet you are geared up and knowledgeable enough to get pretty carried away with it.. if you try, please post a vid ... would love to see it.. certainly love to hear your thoughts on any of it.
If you mean a cupola video then I have posted two on my channel.