In-depth, deep-dive review of the Ultimaker S5
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- Опубліковано 15 лип 2024
- In this in-depth first-look review, David Gewirtz takes a hands-on look at the flagship of the Ultimaker line, the new S5. Is it worth the $6,000 the machine costs? Read on to find out.
Resources:
Ultimaker S5, visit ultimaker.com/en/products/ult...
ColorFabb colorFill: colorfabb.com/copperfill
Mount Hood model: www.thingiverse.com/thing:282451
USS Discovery model: www.thingiverse.com/thing:277...
For more information, see the accompanying article:
www.zdnet.com/article/3d-prin...
It's part of ZDNet's DIY-IT Discovery Series on 3D printing at:
www.zdnet.com/article/diy-it-...
And don't hesitate to visit www.zdnet.com/blog/diy-it/
This is not a sponsored video. - Наука та технологія
Thank you for the video. I'm new to 3d printing (don't even own one) and doing some fun research and stumbled on your video. Thanks for going into the small details so that a newbie like me can begin to learn.
Dont buy an Ultimaker lol.
Great review, coming from someone who has has an S5 since mid February this perfectly sums up my impression of this fantastic tool. As a commercial artist I can justify the investment, it lets you get on with exploring the creative potential of FDM without getting stuck in the tinkering weeds. Only thing I would say you didnt highlight and may be a negative for some is this is not the fastest printer, I usually do 40-55s but with FDM in general patience is rewarded with superior quality. Wee tip is use pla for petg print support, seperates nicely under favourable conditions, cheers
I've been wondering what would happen with the big nozzle. That might extrude mightily fast. The Petg/PLA idea is great. I'll have to give that a try. Never seen that one before. Thanks!
Thankyou, Excelent.
Please do a comparative review of the S5 and the new S3! 🙏
If I get an S3 in, you know I'll look at it!
Thanks a lot for the vid our school just got a grant to buy a lot of things for our robotics team and im thinking of bringing the S5 to our coach. im a little confused about the glue stick thing is it necessary. we have a lulzbot mini 2 and it prints fine but we do have to apply isopropyl alcohol to the board before each print. do we have to do the same with the S5 is the glue stick another way of doing that. Thanks
The bed material is different. I don't use any glue stick on my Lulzbots. But I do on the S5. The S5 is a glass plate. You could probably get away without it, but the Ultimaker folks told me to do it, and my prints have had zero problems (when I set the temps right for the filament I used, of course). So, do you _have_ to? There's no law. Should you? Well, it works well enough for me to not look for an alternative approach.
Thanks for such an excellent review!
I don't know if you can help with a couple of questions. I'm considering in changing my actual 3D printer (WITBOX) to the new model of Ultimaker S5.
I'm really concerned with changing the hotends and with it easy and friendly user experience. And of course changing filament that it is always a suffering! What's your experience with exchanging hotends and filaments?
I want to take a proper look tomorrow, in the official reseller in Madrid (SPAIN), but first I would like to have your opinions and user experience in order to make the proper questions.
For me the most important is maintenance an easy charging / exchanging filaments. Have you experienced stopping an impression and changing filament without losing quality in your model?
I haven't changed the hotend on the S5 yet, but they're identical to the Ultimaker 3 hotend, and I've changed that relatively frequently. You hit a menu item, it pulls out the filament, and you just snap out the entire hotend. They run about a hundred bucks or so, rather than five bucks for an eBay nozzle, but there's a lot less hassle to the change. As for the filament change, the S5 filament change is the nicest I've ever used. It's pretty much instant. Watch the middle of the video where I demonstrate it. Also, somewhere in the middle, there's a clip of an Ultimaker guy swapping extruders. You can see what that's like, also. Good luck!
@@AdvancedGeekery thanks for your comment. I didn't answered before because I'd finally bought the S5 and I'm really impressed with the great machine... Even though I haven't succeeded in connecting my PC with the S5 through wifi...(yes I can connect shortly but now enough for a fluid connection to supervise through the camera the printing)
i just got one of these printers. i like your side mount print head holder. do you think you could link me to the STL file for it ?
Yep. It's in here: www.zdnet.com/article/3d-printing-hands-on-modding-the-ultimaker-3-with-3d-printed-accessories/
I agree with Othoap. You throw around the word perfect a lot when looking at your ship model, there's a lot of ripples in the saucer section, and at the base of the saucer section a lot of dangling filament. Looking at the printed object at 11:33 I can see tons of problems with your print...but you're just calling them perfect.
What is the highest resolution you can print with this printer? I'm looking for a 3D printer that will be printing rectangular boxes (basically) around 9 in. W x 6 in. D x 5 in H and need silky smooth walls. I know higher resolution will take longer but I am not mass producing. Thanks
Available with 0.25, 0.4, or 0.8 mm nozzle. ultimaker.com/3d-printers/ultimaker-print-cores-and-addons
Hey
I am not sure you know that but you can simply take the glass out to clean it.
and it looks like your eys are closed all the time xd
But Nice Video
Thumbs Up
hello thanks for the excelent video. I'm new is this technology, maybe you can help me. I'm an Oral Sugeon and I want to start making some biomodels to practice in a patient replica before surgery. I have a few question maybe you can help me. I need to print the entire skull, but I need a material that i can drilll to simulate implant placement. So the material have to be somehow a little soft to be millable and not hard plastic. there are some materials like "Fibretuff® Biomedical 3D Filament". But i'm looking for something cheaper. Do you have any sugestion about the printer and the material? thanks in advance.
I am not sure. Dental materials are a special beast. While FDM printers are getting some play in the dental world, it's really the resin printers that are where you want to look. They have the detailed resolution I think you might need. Check with Formlabs. They're pretty much the leader in desktop-level resin printers. I know Zortrax has a dental resin, but as my related review showed, I had issues with getting their machine to function properly. Your mileage may vary.
Will it print a guitar in one go?
hello i have ultimaker 2 i can't reset the factory parameters on the 3 page gives the error Er05 swift Z i was measuring with a multimeter and it's ok how can i do it now i already connected usb cable and the computer does not detect the printer thanks for a help thanks.
I've never used an Ultimaker 2. I'd recommend contacting the company.
@@AdvancedGeekery OK Yes I have tried several times but .... Nothing should only sell assistance is zero ....
Have you tried materials like nylon or polycarbonate?
Not yet.
What new improvements to the S3 and S5 do you "hallucinate" Ultimaker will do in 2021?
I'm still trying to stop hallucinating about 2020. Seriously, they don't share info on unannounced products.
Would this be considered a good investment??
If you need an industrial-quality 3D printer, possibly. If you're asking about cash-ROI investments, I can't really answer. And, as for investing in it for your work, that's entirely dependent on what you do and what you need.
How loud is it?
Not bad. I use it a lot in the next room with the door open and it's not really noticeable. Working in the same room, it can get a little annoying, but still quite tolerable.
Well, not a single error? I see a few @4:15
I'm gonna buy 5 of these just to print random cubes to throw in the garbage. ☺
no its not worth it,.... Raise3D Pro2 Plus is way better
Printing just PLA based materials in a $6k printer is not a test or review. Throw some non hobbyist materials at it and show how it works out on Mt. Hood, or a half scale version even. Any printer can print its volume in PLA, PLA is shit and not what manufacturing prototypes should be made of unless the test is to see how fast Mt. Hood melts in your car on a warm day. Heck, at least throw some ABS at a decent sized print, curious of how they compare to what I have seen from the Ultimaker and ABS.
Well, I did a whole engine block using NGEN metallic. But I like and use PLA for most things because it's low hassle. If I needed to print with ABS and wanted to send those fumes throughout my house, I would.
What a poor quality of printing , lines and strings everywhere on surface
Sorry but this is FAR from a "In-depth, deep-dive" review". Your mount hood print was not "PERFECT" I saw the filament mistake at 9:10. I'll stop here at your fanboy review. Your over and miss use of the word "PERFECT" leaves me not trusting your information. Remember everything can be reviewed including a review. again I am sorry for my words and should diminish all values for this review.
4:16 that ringing on that "incredible piece" is horrendous... My Ender3 prints that Enterprise a lot better than that. A fully equipped V-Core3.1 will print way better and faster than that white thing.