Premium Innovation: The Ultimaker 3 review!
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- Опубліковано 22 сер 2024
- What happens when you have to improve an already great 3D printer? Ultimaker 3 happens!
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Models shown:
Gyro the Dodo - Ultimaker Special by Stijn van der Linden www.youmagine....
Adalinda: The Singing Serpent by Loubie www.thingiverse...
Low-Poly Lapras - Dual Extrusion version by Agustin Flowalistik www.youmagine....
Squid Attack! by boldmachines www.thingiverse...
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![АЛАУДИНОВ у Скабеевой: эти их ВСУ нас НЕ ДОГОНЯТ 😁 [Пародия]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/an0anqU4WGQ/mqdefault.jpg)
top quality dad joke there at the beginning.
For real! 😅
why?
@@d.w.1567 let's look at ultimaker 3 "proceed to literally look at printer"
In some way you're right, if someone asks "what 3d should I buy" you can say ultimaker 3. But that's mainly because people who will ask such things don't have much knowledge about 3d printers, and those people want an easy to set up solution.
However I think that if a person in interested in technology (like me) he will prefer more tinkering and more options over easy set up, just because it's cheaper and it's interesting.
Simply put, this printer is great for beginning consumers and not bad for engineers.
sasja de vries. As someone who uses 3D printers for film and tv prop fabrication, I have no time to tinker with a machine. I want something reliable and consistent with high quality prints, which is why I would hands down go for Ultimaker any day, especially for props that are meant to be directly handled by the actor without time to mould and cast..
After 3 years with an Ultimaker 3 at work now I have to say, that this is a really robust machine. It (almost) always delivers. But, as always with these integrated products, you can't really mess with it. Auto-levelling always messes up my Buildtak surface and software/hardware doesn't allow for modifications. For stuff like that, we now have two Ender 3 Pros that are heavily modded for specific jobs (e3d hotend, other extruders).
So the Ultimaker 3 is a great workhorse for general stuff (and people who are not that printing-savvy) and the beautiful prints (within reasonable print times) are done on the Ender Pros.
The review is amazing, you covered pretty much everything that are important. By the way, You can configure the dumb spool colour in cura as well if you really want to. Regarding PVA being very expensive, yes, but in cura 2.4 beta, the support material can be configured to only print the dense support layer and print the rest of the base support structure with cheaper the primary filament (pla and such). It also helps in reducing the time needed to dissolve the PVA.
That's me at 10:14 with that blue synth case :D
you got me at "wife integration"
I feel like "feature creep" got the best of ultimaker on this revision. Instead of improving their kenimatics system, they added a bunch of features that most people won't even use. The USB port is a welcome addition, as is the better Z platform, but except for those, I don't really see an improvement for most people over thhe um2 or um2+.
Many of those upgrades are things already standard for a Raise3D printer; which have touch color panel, bigger build volume, smartphone app, closed chamber and better price.
I bet the hotend carriage is the reason why they seemed rushed for delivery, that must have taken them forever to get perfect. I have no money and thus use kit or homemade machines so I have no horse in this race, but I can appreciate the amount of time the engineers must have spent getting the swappable, click in place, filament moves out of the way, leveling sensing, hotends. Pretty cool, even if it needed a little patching.
I hear the Ultimaker PVA trades off dissolve time for moisture resistance. Other brands of PVA tend to dissolve faster but are crazy hygroscopic!
It is possible to speed up the dissolving by quite a bit by using water heated to ~35C and water pumps to circulate the water.
Ultrasonic cleaning machine also does the trick.
The Ultimaker looks like a printer for people who do not want to tinker, a very professional product, but if you want to get your hands dirty, it's not your printer.
thats what they make you to believe. A prusa doesnt require much tinkering to print perfectly
Well, good review, covered most of the important stuff. I would have added that since they switched over to printcores they no longer supply replacement nozzles. Also that printcores are considered consumables and aren't covered so well by warranty
Great review Tom, did I notice a change in format here? :)
Looks like Ultimaker did well with the UM3. Hope to see more of these in the wild soon.
I like the bed levelling probe. That's a clever way to do it.
Thomas, which one do you prefer, Ultimaker 3 or Prusa i3 MK2?
Jajajaja, maybe when Prusa realease their Mk19 will be at this level... Its needed to change a bit the reprap philosophy to a more comercial and professional 3D printer machines. Or we keep doing toys forever? Ultimaker its a very goog machine, but overpriced.
still way over priced
In terms of printing quality, they are quite similar. The biggest difference is in their design. The Ultimaker 3 has a much more professional design, whereas the Prusa has the DIY approach. You can upgrade the Prusa by building an enclosure, installing a camera, getting the multi material upgrade etc, in order to get the features that can be found on the Ultimaker 3, or you can get it all out of the box by getting the Ultimaker 3 at 4-5 times the price.
Ultimaker 3 vs Prusa i3 MK2 is kind of like comparing an iMac to building your own PC. The iMac will get you all you need in a compact, stylish format at a ridiculously high price. If you build your own PC, you can get the upgrades that suits your needs for a much lower price. The Prusa is designed so that when a new model is released, you can just buy the new parts as an upgrade instead of buying a brand new one, thus saving you lots of money.
Tom, thank you for giving us under the hood look into the mechanics of u3
Damn that print head assembly is awesome.
Thank you for pointing out that the UM3 is not a "successor" to the UM2.
They're obviously similar for all the reasons that you stated, but I think it was a mistake brandingwise to label it the "3" as if it's just an "upgrade" from the 2/2+ because the two printers are largely targeting different audiences.
There is no real "upgrade path" as the naming convention implies. Add that confusion to the price differential between the 2+ and the 3 and it's easy to see why so many people were upset when the UM3 was announced.
Saweet! Glad you are enjoying the UM3 - so rad. Keep up the great videos!
just love that ultimaker is giving those features to EVERYONE. I can do that with my ANet too, as Cura can connect to my Octoprint. awesome :D
As always, totally articulate, comprehensive, and spot-on analysis.
I have access to an Ultimaker S3 and quite happy with prints it produces. It's well built and really easy to use (almost like an apple product) but the price tag (~4k) makes it definitely a "premium" product for schools or small businesses, not for a home user.
Very nice coverage Tom! That pump was a great idea! You should link one from amazon :)
Oh, I ment the pump, not the Ultimaker, that only be sold through channels yeah! Thx!
i am not hating on ultimaker but i am just saying because phones also have an mdc tag it shuld have been possible to just uae your phone to reed the tag witch could tell you how much would be left on the spool because having to use a scale is inconvenient
i work with 2 fortus 450 printers for my work, they start at $135,000 dollars each (mine were 175k each)
print dimensions are 14x16x14 inch
the ultimaker is a pretty decent system for enthusiasts. However, the fortus can handle running 1 week long without much service
Good review. worth the wait! excellent prints too! Someone will definitely have to come up with a support material that dissolves much quicker.
Hey Tom, love your content, learned a lot from you. Keep up the good work, big fan here!
I'm pretending to be a fan sometimes, I was lazy to install one to the nozzle so I'm blowing air with my mouth til I get dizzy. Sadly can't keep up when printing ABS, I often get a blackout from the fumes. I subscribed to your channel.
Thomas, how does the 2 print heads sitting side my side in the X axis affect the width of printed parts? I believe you said that X is 250mm but one nozzle will not go clear to the opposite edge of X and same for the second nozzle.
Thoughts?
BTW - Love watching your videos. I like your no-nonsense approach. Keep it up.
"Make cura great again" I see what you did there ;)
And you can pull out the usb while printing wich is easy if you already want to add the next one
If you update the firmware the spool changing is much faster because after a print the material is retracted enough for directly retracting the fillament completly
That lapras model is amazing. Is the STL available somewhere? either in single filament or dual filaments
Great review Tom! Something that I notice not sure if happen to you too when you end a print and you want to send a new one using the wifi sometime Cura give me some error and I need to turn off and on the machine to make it works again.
I feel like ultimaker is the apple of 3d printers, expensive but... reliable (tho a bit limiting)
Apple would never share their software with anyone without an Apple device. But you can simply download Cura and use it with any printer you like. So its more like a Microsoft Surface or something like that.
Multi-color/material is the future.
wie eigentlich immer - guter Beitag! Danke
Eine Frage in die Runde - bei meinem Ultimaker Original ist das damals optional erstandene Heaterboard defekt (Heizbett fängt an, nach Anschalten des Druckers aufzuwärmen und hört nicht auf warmzu werden. 'Notaus' ab 120°C...) . Das würde neu 120.-- kosten (was ich perönlich unverschämt finde). Gibt es Alternativen, das zu reparieren oder alternative Bezugsquellen? Ich bin nicht sehr bewandert mit der Elektronik - aufgrund der Temperaturen von über 130°C auf einem Chip (angeblich ein TI CSD18501Q5A llt Google und einem ähnlichem Problem), tippe ich darauf, das dieser defekt ist und würde das versuchen (ja - ohne Ahnung zu haben) auszutauschen, wenn ich keinen anderen Weg finde.
---
as nerly always - good Information. A question - i'm running a ultimaker original with an optional bought heaterboard which seems to be defect (starts heating after turning on the printer and doesn't stop heating .... getting to hot). New it would be about 120.-- EURO - thats toooo much. Are there alternative Shops/ Clones available or a way to build a working bypass?
I'm not an electronic guy - but a chip (TI CSD18501Q5A Googles says according to a similiar problem) - the chip is getting about 130°C ... so i think, this is the problem and i would try to change it (if there is no other way). Soldering is not one of my favourites too :(
Another great review Tom!
What I need to see in these reviews is how easy it is to change the crucial parts. These printers all have flaws and as I found out from buying Prusa's, some of them are literally design flaws. In future I'd like to see reviewers take apart the hot-end, the cooling fans and the cabling.
I'm curious. As far as I know, PLA prints aren't perfectly water-tight, so when you're dissolving support structures from a low-infill print, will water seep in?
(PS: I've looked at the Nightbot and UA-cam APIs for live stream chat, and we can definitely get that chat-feature I mentioned last week. I'll keep you up to date.)
Tuning the slicer settings like (solid)infill-perimeter overlap and ensuring a constant extrusion will help a lot.
I understand vase-mode helps too, but I'm pretty sure the low-poly fox wasn't printed in vase-mode.
Hi tom. The Prusa Mk2 is not realy open source at all (no BOM, & some parts are not available, like the Mk42 bed, the hobbed gear and the pinda sensor). Are all those open source old gurus now converted to commercial religion now ? It seems only lulzbot still gives all their sources.., Note on thingiverse creator"s menu the prusa i3 is no more a reprap. Sign of the times are changing ?
You might want to mention is that if you are going to use both nozzles, the available print space is reduced. I really like the Ultimaker 2+ and thought about the Ultimaker 3....but my large prints on the 2+ will not fit the 3, if I want to use both nozzles/PVA supports. (It would have been fantastic if they upped the design size a bit so the same build space was available with dual nozzles)
If you're using a single material you can still use the full bed size you are used to from the UM2.
....correct....but that's not the big selling point of the Ultimaker 3! It's dual material/PVA Support is the big feature...and as I said, if you expect to have the same print bed volume using it, you'd be mistaken. I have yet to encounter anyone whose bought an Ultimaker 3 for it's ability to print with just one print head =)
Just need more money than I'd ever be allowed to spend on something like that. Prusa's is looking really good right now...and that's pretty pricey too.
Looks like its a good platform for E3D Edge and Scaffold. I have used an 2+ and it is very nice , but i honestly think the ancient UP Plus2 sitting next to it has better print quality.
Andrew Joy aà
Hey Tom! Going to do another 3D printer build live stream soon? The last one was great
hi Tom, love your channel. I am in the process of designing a new printer with all latest tech and your insights and opinion help me shape that a lot! I'd love to send you my new prototype some day in the future. :)
Great review Thomas!
hey tom, on the topic of soluable supports, e3d sells something they call "scaffold", and in their promo video it looks like it dissolves super quickly and also breaks away really niceley. would you mind checking that out? there's not much content about it
Bought a roll when it was beta, amazing filament. It handles daily use without worrying about moisture. It breaks away very easily, but no it does not dissolve fast without much encouragement.
nice video ! I would like to see it up agents the cubicon single. I wonder which has better print quality.
Good Review thank you, it's what I want for my little company, although a little on the expensive side. The Raise 3d is another option I''m looking at which appears to be better value, however I've heard 'the Raise 3d fixed dual nozzles cause problems.
Great video as always Tom.
Are there really some people out there that aren't subscribed?! Surely not.
they better has iPad size and screen and user experience building that display for that price
What's the position accuracy of the print cores? I'd assume they'd be within manufacturing tolerances. But with all these new machines having swappable parts (especially the printer, router, laser machines), I'm afraid that their position accuracy will vary greatly to the point of something just not working correctly. I'd like to know the position differences between the AA and the BB, but I would also like to know the difference between the AA and the second AA. I'd also like to see the repeatability of these positions.
I assume you don't have the tools for testing this. And I don't even know what position difference could ruin a print, probably 10 microns or so?
I'm also surprised they didn't go for a triple extruder setup, just so you don't have to swap out cores, which would render the first part of this comment useless.
What else surprises me, is no active bed leveling. It's not that hard to do, just a small motor and a touch sensor in each corner. All the hardware and software needed would be in it's own ecosystem separate from the printer. Print head touches the sensor at a specified a low Z height, if it touches early the motor lowers that corner, if it doesn't touch the motor raises that corner. Could even expand this to sensors between corners and adjust an entire side rather than a corner at a time. This would of course take up print space, but how often are people printing out to the edges of their print bed?
What about the water with the dissolved filament??
Thom, you should get hands on Zortax M200 for review! I feel like you are missing out on the gold. They have the best surface quality I've seen across desktop FDMs, amazing supports (I've already forgotten how to design for 3D printing specifically because they are so easy to remove). Yes - it's a closed ecosystem, but it's damn good at what it does - just simply works. We have 3x M200 at work and mine is on 2900h of print time and it's in perfect condition :). Best part? They run for 1600€ now from iGo3D.com which is breadcrums compared to UM3. Seriously. Get your hands on one ;) they are freaking workhorses!
Tom, can you do a tutorial on PVA? Got some here but it always gets stuck or clogged and doesnt extrude anymore, even when turning down the temp by 50° when not extruding -.-
in terms of print quality, what do you prefer. Taz 6 or Ultimaker 3?
Verstopft die Pumpe, die du für den Wasserkreislauf verwendest, nach einiger Zeit nicht?
What was the layer height for the squid thing you printed?
what I want to know the most is could I do machinable wax or moldlay with PVA or HIPS
Wow, you were relatively positive about a printer! That's a first! Milestone are made by the Dutch apparently.... who could have guessed that :-) I assume that the "let's make the ultimate 3D FDM printer together" project is of your list by now?
what actual advantage does it really offer over the mk2 original? they are playing with minor things while keeping the glass bed!! they should work on the bed instead. One more thing I think PVA can only work with PLA if I'm not mistaken.
can you try to review the RaVa4D, its a full color FDM printer, it blends a couple colors to print in full color, not sure if its still on kickstarter
Loved your review!!!
Are you by any chance going to review the Airwolf Axiom?
I still can' Cura2 to work on Linux Mint. It complains about missing libraries and the wrong version of python. I wish they had made a proper .deb package that checked for all the required dependencies.
When I downloaded the Beta version on ArchLinux I got an AppImage file. Direct URL was software.ultimaker.com/Cura_open_beta/Cura-2.4.0-BETA2.AppImage which was the current Beta at least ~a week ago.
The AppImage files are great, just make it executable and execute it - it's a selfcontained package which has (or should have) all the dependencies in it.
It worked great under ArchLinux while building from source myself was a major pain in the a** because of some specific dependencies.
So basically, maybe try that one :)
I really like that they're giving out the AppImage files!
AppImage is a good solution (especially if you want just to try an app) but if you want automatic updates you can use the following PPA ppa:thopiekar/cura . Take a look at the link launchpad.net/%7Ethopiekar/+archive/ubuntu/cura
In the PPA there are all the dependencies. I am using Cura with Mint 18.1.
brillant most useful review... thanks a lot
Nice! Any update on anet a8 live build???
I want to feel even better about not buying one than I already do.
Thomas Sanladerer prob watched the black widow build and said no way!
thanks again for all you've done!
I seriously think I would not have been able to get into 3d printing without your tutorials and the confidence and understanding they've given me
Thomas Sanladerer i read somewhere you will review the raise N2 plus?
Is this true& what do you think about it should i buy it?
Gearbest are not the fasted when shipping stuff :)
0:35 Wait, what? That is a raw print? Not modified afterwards? That's like 0.00001mm/layer!
Using the PVA filament, do you reduce the normal small gap between the part and support to zero? Is that how it improves the quality?
My desire to upgrade any of my machines to dual heads is not greater. :)
Mine defaulted to 0.3mm. I wonder if I should reduce that for single material prints. I get pretty good finish on supported overhangs, but it could be improved.
Is hybrid supports an option, pla supports with a few pva interface layers?
looking at that price tag, isnt prusa's multi-extrusion much better?
Excellent, well presented. Great info.
I am finally committed to buying a 3d printer. Does anyone have a suggestion for a good starter one? I have a small budget that has a little room for movement, so I am still looking around before I actually buy.
Velleman vertex or vertex Nano might be good first choices.
Get a creator pro. Cant really go wrong with them.
Tristen Harstvedt Anet a8
I have a Qidi tech 1 and it was my first printer. Really like it.
"wife integration?" - sign me up!!
Oh... You said wifi...
Overpriced gimmicky printer with propietary hardware and own expensive filament. This printer is aimed for people who wants something that "just works", where you don't need to calibrate, configurate or look for the sweet spot. There is no reason to pay over three thousand euros for something that can barely get better results than a seven houndred prusa printer. Very nice review, between. Keep it going Thomas.
Why is UM2 and above worth twice or tripple the price as umo+?
Can you review the Prusa i3 Mk2 Multi Material upgrade kit? I can't find anything detailed online.
Hello Tom,
how does it compare to the prusa I3MK2, in absolute print quality, and/or according to the price difference?
It's about the same quality.
so how is all that pva being washed down the drain going to effect the environment? I mean, everyone thought microbeads in soap was a great idea until it starting showing up in the fish we eat...so now its banned.
Manufacturers are way too greedy. There's not even $1500 worth of hardware. They are asking prototype prices for production mass-market equipment. That time has passed.
+Jean Roch sure, but you do have to factor in RnD, support, logistics, legal etc.
Anything in automotive (including full cars) usually have production costs of about 1/3rd of their retail price.
+Thomas Sanladerer Hi Thomas, I've taken that into account. Considering this thing is too expensive by, say, a thousand dollars, and they sell maybe ten thousand of those, I don't think for a second there's 10 million dollars' worth of R&D in this printer. Basically it's an incremental improvement on previous designs. It's not even unique. I was at the French robotics cup last month, there was a manufacturer showcasing a printer with cartridge-like hot ends. They were asking for 2,500 € for their basic model, by the way.
Meanwhile, my local hackerspace runs several old DIY printers that have been tuned to near-perfection by dedicated users, based on hundreds of prints, and each one cost less than a fifth of what a basic Ultimaker costs.
I don't know how many UM3's will sell in the end, but given the price difference with even the best DIY kit, I'm willing to bet 9 out of 10 people interested in a 3D printer are also inventive enough to consider trying to improve on a cheaper DIY printer rather than spending this much. I know I will, which is why I started watching your videos, actually :-D
@@TheNefastor Economic pricing theory, says that they can sell them at $3,500 (and they do). What is the cost of an iPhone, or a house, or an airplane seat... whatever any one is willing to pay for it.
Hi Tom.
Do you happen to have tried out the Tronxy x1 printer? It is only 155$, and I am really considering getting one.
I already have a Wanhao Duplicator i3, a homemade Smartrapcore alu, and a nearly complete D-bot. So I guess the main reason I want it (need it), is because of its price :D
Hi there,
if you are considering to buy the tronxy, you might want to watch PRESS RESET's video about it if you didn't do it by now.
Cura 2's non-ultimaker printer support for USB printer sort of turned me off :(
Quelle imprimante extraordinaire !!! Une véritable merveille.
7:10 what is that anyway?, seen it few times and im still clueless
So looking at this a year later, this thing is $1000 more than an UM2+ with only a couple extra features, some of which can be added with a cheap octoprint setup.
Not even going to mention that it's not using silestepstick drivers and bondtech gears like the much much cheaper Prusa...
Their pricing is just silly compared to other good printers on the current market.
Nice review!
Omfg the quality is amazing ! How much does it cost ?
bbogdanmircea About 3k
I am using an UM3 at my work as engineer and at home I have an Prusa i3 MK2. I was very excited, when we received the UM3 and expected perfect prints with the help of PVA as support structure. But I was very disapointed because the prime tower was knocked over a few times, small support structures got knocked away and many little PVA drops went between the PLA layers... It just isn't reliable. The UM3 made me cry for my i3 MK2 sometimes. Print quality is great with PLA but PVA support is still very annoying. As I saw on your prints, you had also that problem. Lots of little PVA parts which were laying around on the build plate.
We had the prime tower knocking over problem for a while, but it shouldn't be a problem anymore with the newest Cura. Make sure you have a hollow prime tower; the oozed material is then wiped on the inside on different places, rather than building up on the same place on the outside and getting knocked off onto the build plate.
I've had similar results at our school. We have pricier printers, but I was hoping the UM3 would be "good enough" for first iterations of projects. Since a lot of our users are in the mechanical engineering program ABS, Nylon or similar is preferred to PLA. The UM3 does not play nice with ABS. I've had serious adhesion issues both with the bed and with the PVA.
I've managed to solve most of them through a door cover for the printer, and using a PVA brim to for the support structure to stick to. Basically the PVA won't stick to ABS which really causes issues with certain geometry. Ironically the exact issue that dissolvable support material is suppose to fix. Also as Tom said using two materials makes for some truly ridiculous print times. I've also had under extrusion issues, occasional layer shifting, and a fair amount of warping.
In all fairness I've also gotten some really nice prints from the printer. Every time I do, I think this is it, this thing is great, then I have another failed print and I'm back to cursing at it. For reference we have a Dimension 1200se, MarkForged, Objet 24, Form 2, and I have some UM 2+ machines at home.
I think the UM3 is probably great if you're just doing PLA, and if you're willing to mess around with it, you can certainly get some very nice prints. However the $3500 price tag definitely upped my expectations. As another poster said "Why would I get this over a Form 2". I'd add why get this over a MarkForged Onyx. Sure the UM3 does nice PLA prints, but so do a lot of printers for half or even a quarter of the cost.
Finally, and this is a bit petty, but for $3500 they could have put a better screen on the thing.
How does using two materials make for rediculous print times?
If you're using Cura 2.4 then it starts heating the standby nozzle before it will start printing, so that it doesn't need to wait. The added travel move to the switching bay is neglectible in the overall print time.
I've never had layer shifting occur on the UM3. I've never even heard of layer shifting occurring on the UM3. Perhaps you just got unlucky with your specific printer.
PVA printing is always a hassle. I don't think there's any other printer model out there performing a better job, though.
Fair point about the display.
I'm using Cura 2.3. When 2.4 gets out of beta I'll certainly try it. I'm assuming that it also adds the hollow prime tower option? I saw that mentioned in your other post and was curious about it. Right now I find printing in 2 materials to be very slow. Hopefully 2.4 speeds things up. I also realize this is an opinion, what is slow for one person may be perfectly acceptable/fast for another.
The layer shifting may have been caused by filament getting tangled on a spool, but I'm not 100% sure. All I know was that the layer shifted by ~1mm. When time permits I'll rig up a better spool holder system. I quite like Thomas's design for the drybox one.
As to printers with soluble support, our Dimension 1200 obviously does it quite well, but at a much higher price point. The new Stratasys F series should be even better.
Is this a fair comparison since they cost 5-10 times as much as the UM3, and use much more expensive consumables? Depends on the criteria, if you're simply looking for something that works, and aren't too concerned about cost then the Stratasys is very reliable. If you're willing to fiddle, don't have deadlines, or large groups of users then the hobbyist machines are great (like I said I have a pair of UM 2+ at home). It says a lot of good things about the UM3, and affordable printing in general, that we're even talking about it with regards to the pricier commercial printers.
If I had found the UM3 to be plug and play with materials other than PLA, or if it was in the sub $3K range, then I feel like it would be an extremely compelling printer. As it is, I'd really want to look at my intended use, and strongly consider a cheaper PLA printer if that was my need, a Form 2(or another resin printer) if I needed high detail parts, or a Markforged with Onyx if I wanted structural engineering parts.
Anyway thanks for the heads up on Cura 2.4. I'm not one for downloading beta's but I'll certainly check it out when the official release happens.
Happy printing
2.4 has been out of beta for a while. There was a bug in Cura 2.3 which meant you didn't get an update that a new version was available :S
2.5 beta is coming out soon...
Did you time printing in 2 materials against printing the same things in a single material? I don't think there's a big difference. PVA support might be slower than PLA support due to the support settings, though.
Is it an acrylic frame?
this or Original Prusa i3 Mk2?
I was told that....
oh wait, I've already decided, the Original Prusa, thankyou
Not really comparable...!
So what needs to be fixed before it gets the Tom Approves badge? :)
He mentioned the issues in the video: closed source hardware, crappy spool holder, minor software issues.
do you really think they will fix that? He made it sound like he thinks it will soon be "Approved" and I don't see them "fix" neither the spool holder nor change their stance about "closed/open" source until the 12 moths he mentioned are over^^
As I understood he is willing to give the badge once the hardware design files are released.
I Like your videos so much
Please i want to explain how to calibration dual extruder 3d printer with marlin and ramps 1.4 board
Great machine but 50% too expensive
Thanks for sharing 😀👍
How long until they remove support to untagged spools... :P
What's the result of division by zero?
Nice review
So can you easily add custom profiles again in cura?
Thomas Sanladerer cool thx, need to try it out again then. Craftware just has a few quirks that annoy the hell out of me.
Thomas Sanladerer ah good so they added it back - they said they were not going to
boomerangfreak
,
Thanks for the great video again! So how does it compare to "absolutely the best g'd damm printer on the market"? As some might call the Prusa mk2 :p
Thomas Sanladerer 2 be honest.. because of your mk2 review I ordered the kit.. :) I'm just surprised people are willing to pay 5x as much for an ultimaker :S imagine you can have 5 MK2's for the same price!
I live in the same city ultimaker is in. my friend went to the factory. wish I could afford one
'city'
angelorf ?
angelorf what it that supposed to mean
Ultimaker HQ is located in Geldermalsen, that's not really a city, that's a village.
angelorf I mean I live at their us hq in Memphis, TN
Hast du Maschinenbau an der tu München studiert? Ich bin drauf und dran mich da zu bewerben
***** Der Nick soll schockieren ;) wird aber bald geändert.
Also ich versuche auf jeden Fall noch auf 1,9 als Abiturschnitt zu kommen, ansonsten könnte es schwierig werden mit der TU. Aber vielen Dank für die Antwort!
Excuse me, what is the device in the the 6:24? thanks
Gerardo Espinosa 8:29 , it is likely a water pump that circulates water based on what he said.
if your smart and instead of buying an ultimater spool, buy a 2.85mm spooless and just put it on that spool.