What advantages does the s5 have? I know there's the automatic material recognition and automatic printhead recognition that wasn't mentioned. I've been looking at used s5's, so what can you recommend about it?
That was a very biased comparision.. Just printed a calicat on my S5 and it was 20.01 x 20.02 5mm was 5.00x5.00! Finish was really smooth. And that is on a printer that is 1,5 years old and has been printing at least 80% of that time. No other maintenace than some oil. One thing that I really like about the S5 is the filament detection device. Just put in any filament (from Ultimaker), and the printer detects it and puts all settings right automatically. Im using the S5 as a tool. Im not very intrested in 3d printers at all. I just want to print and get a good result without problems. And that is what the S5 delivers. Im very satisfied with it. Btw.. the filament is on the back of the S5 so you can put several printers side by side. A smart design that saves a lot of space.
Thanks for the video. We were recently faced with a choice between the two printers at the company. We then decided on the Ultimaker because the (industrial) operation of the Raise3D in Europe is not allowed. The aspect of the missing CE declaration according to the Machinery Directive 2006/42/EG was unfortunately left out in the video. The Ultimaker has this and also a good user manual in the local language. (German)
The certification is an important factor for integrating additive manufacturing in your production. I researched the topic and as it seems Raise3D got there certification for the Pro3 from TÜV Rheinland in June 22.
It is well known that Ultimaker's machine build quality is excellent and, so is the quality of its prints - also when the machine has been working hard for several years. That one sample shown does not look anything like typical Ultimaker quality to me, so I'm skeptical of the statement "I tried to be as objective as possible".
@@ultra_busy most of the points in the video didn't make a sense or were true. you don't buy Ulti S5 to print PLA but when you do you do "though PLA"... or fukin high end materials... also, they stole extruder change mechanism :D like microsoft stole panels in their web-browser :D ; explaining itself Let's agree, they are just not comparable as some guy just have bias and possibly paid. (apples x oranges) Still I would like to buy Ultimaker S5 Plus with doubled the volume space :D that would be beast :D
Comment on the leveling system. I do have a remark (I am a user of Both; the Pro3 Plus and Ultimaker S5 + Pro bundle) I do slightly find the Leveling system used by Raise3D slightly more clever. We run constant production and the nozzle's are sometimes slightly dirty. On the Ultimaker, as it uses the Nozles themselves to measure the mesh correction, I do notice that the autoleveling isn't always as great as I want.. especially effecting the final Z-accuracy. The Probe used on the Pro3 and the extra distance away from the nozzle (when pushed down for measurement) .. really tackles this issue. So if I would put it to a score.. together with the faster leveling on parts that don't require full bed... I would still give it to the Pro3.. Nice video btw! I'm still at 4 minutes.. might have a few more comments.
I’m not ready to give up my S5. With Ultimakers material management system and the ability to start a print from any place in the world through Cura online factory it’s not going anywhere.
I believe the review was skewed slightly. I've used the S5 here at work and the prints are flawless. The smoothest lines I've seen on a printer. Its setting right next to a mark forged carbon printer that is equally as good and impressive!!
@@titansfan2104 "slightly" :D It couldn't be more obvious :D. Perhaps this blond guy is just paid... I often used common sense, eyes and face micro-expressions and Occam's razor when it comes to interpreting someone, who may or may not be lying or be paid for something they not believe or they just don't care. Like this video.
If they break who you going to call. I think the most important to me is support and warranty if you have a problem, along with available consumable parts that will need to be replaced sooner or later.
Still love the Ultimaker! Always works, print quality is still really good after a few years, really accurate, only thing is waiting time! Love the carbon and glas filled materials
I have a Pro 2 and can vouch for its reliability and usability. The Pro 3 just seems to be a strong incremental improvement, adding to the printer what few things it was missing (auto-leveling being the biggest upgrade).
I have seen tons of happy people with the ultimakers with better results than presented here. I have seen none with this printer yet. Marketing by attacking the competitor that has already proven to be best is not a nice move and I do not believe what has been told in this video. UM is worth the money and I worked a lot with different printers.
After countless hours spent to optimize settings in Cura, I switched to IdeaMaker and got immediately improved quality and nice productivity features. I have the impression Raise3d is more gearing toward industry while Ultimaker is now sitting without market between high end hobbist and industry... Clearly Ultimaker needs to cut its prices in half on existing lineup and develop much higher end lineup.
While this overview is a helpful comparison, there are several inaccuracies that are important to clarify. 1) Mesh bed leveling: Ultimaker does efficiently check points only around the printed part geometry - not just blindly around the entire bed. 2) Touch display: Ultimaker S5 shows print time remaining as standard. You only showed a single shot of the display, unlike what you did for the Raise. Simply swipe to the side to see what is being printed or tap to see print temp, build plate temp, material info, or tune any settings on the fly. There is also an intuitive workflow that helps you change print cores (nozzles), as well as automatically walking you through maintenance procedures. The UI has a ton of features easily accessible. 3) Build plates: Raise has spring steel standard. Ultimaker has glass standard and you can purchase a buildtak style flex plate from many vendors (I did this and they work great). 4) Ultimaker is made in the US (if purchasing in the Americas) and Netherlands (if purchasing in Europe). Raise is manufactured in Asia Pacific region.
It looks like Raise 3D still uses 2 ball screws for Z axis which causes wavy pattern along Z axis on the parts. That sucks. I expected they will make 3 ball screws for Z axix to stabilize the printing platform properly.
I have the Pro3 and the prints come out literally perfect. Only downsides of this printer is the print speed, and the insanely slow start-speed of the printer. But anyway, there is zero patterns.
We have an ultimaker. Its has the ability to produce lovely prints but its slow. The main benefits of the ultimaker are the swappable print cores, cura and the material station. It automatically swapps filement when one spool runs out. It can easilly print any of the medium temp engineering materials. Its weaknesses are that its boden and doesnt have pressure advance, could run faster with input shaping, build plate results in z-wobble (not too bad but could be better) and doesnt print flexibles well.
One point is incorrect. The Ultimaker S5 keeps the last 10 prints in memory locally, even after a reboot. If you use the Ultimaker Digital Factory every print ever is kept in history.
I have not found a way to access old prints on the S5 without the digital factory. Is there a button I'm not seeing? It would be awesome if there is a way without the digital factory.
Hi, possibly I missed this in there but how does the speed compare? How about manual leveling (when I tried this on the Pro 2 I had to use an allen key on 9 screws I think vs ultimaker is much easier)? thanks
As for speed, the stock Pro3 is generally faster due to better mechanics. However, Raise3D just released their Hyper Upgrade Kit for the Pro3 (as an add-on) that can improve the speed 3-5x with only minor losses in accuracy and quality, if any. Even the recently announced Ultimaker S7 won't be able to do that. As for manual leveling, it is still 9 screws and an allen key. However, due to the colored diagram on the screen it is now very easy to identify which screw needs how much adjusting. While manual leveling on the Pro2 could take quite a while, I can do it in a few minutes on the Pro3, most pf those waiting for the automated probing to finish (so I can have my diagram). While the thumbscrews on the Ultimaker may seem easier, they also come out of alignment much faster (meaning you have to re-level) and testing whether you did a good job is more difficult. The colored diagram on the Pro3 lets you know at a glance whether you adjusted the screws properly and at the same time due to the way the plate is guided within the printer, it won't come out of alignment easily.
hi, i really appreciate your video, learned a lot about the machines. my question would be if they are that more hassle free and have better print quality than Prusas (let's leave out the fact that those aren't enclosed). Prusas are already way more hassle free than the budget printers, but still can make a lot of problems and customer service is there, but not as educated as they should be. They just can't help with many problems. So i'm looking at a FDM that really just works for a small office that doesn't have time to tinker, has good customer service and doesn't suffer from warped beds, inconsistent extrusion (direct drive: issue 602 aka issue 6 on vorons) and insufficient cooling. Btw what is wrong with the print of the CaliCat on the s5, which looks better on any chinese budget printer? thanks, greetings to germany from austria.
Ultimaker Print Core CC can print at 300°C. Technology is changing and Ultimaker gives you upgrades as they become available. Having much greater market share than underdog Raise3D, they can afford more NRE that applies to all of their product line. Raise3D will always be lagging because they just don't have the revenue. You can't even compare Raise3D with Ultimaker for market share because Raise3D is not even on the list! Other trends for Raise3D show a company who is losing revenue as opposed to Ultimaker who is increasing. Not that I don't want to support the underdog, but Raise3D doesn't stand a chance to compete with Ultimaker. In face, no online source even lists the two companies as competitors.
I just can't figure out why Ultimaker are just sitting on the S5. They had hyped up a big reveal recently and then it was their washing station. I was hoping for a new, updated printer. The S5 just feels outdated in terms of its features and even its mainboard. But instead, they only want to update the S5 using firmware updates. It's just a bit disappointing to me so for now I'm on the bandwagon of the underdog I guess. If Ultimaker come up with a new and improved printer or make significant changes, then I'll be happy to do a similar comparison, hopefully with far more even results.
Thanks a lot for this video. I was thinking for Raise Pro 3 or Ultimaker 5S and now I am sur of my choice.really thanks you so much. In France we will have it only in January but my retailer has one in test and confirm all the improvement made compare to the PRO 2 Kind regards Eric
WIth a suitable nozzle, yes. However, as metal filament is even more abrasive than the well-known fiber-filled filaments, it will wear out printer components other than the nozzle over time. If you will be exclusively printing metal filaments, a dedicated metal printer would be recommended. If interested, you can have a brief look at the Metalfuse that Raise3D will release soon or some of the Makerbot printers.
Print width and smallest hole both depend on your nozzle and slicing settings. If you use a 0.4mm nozzle and set the extrusion width to 0.4mm, the thinnest wall will be 0.4mm. As for smallest layer thickness, it allows you to set it all the way down to 0.05mm, but then the print is so slow it's unbearable. I would recommend keeping layer height between 0.1mm for fine printing and 0.3mm for rougher (but faster) prints.
@@AMAcademyBayreuth Does Ultimaker S5 or S7 print with a 0.2mm nozzle. In that case can it print a .75mm wall (multiple passes) with a 0.5 mm radius on the top?
@@froggymountain It should generally be able to. You can always send the part to a service provider that uses the printer you want and have them print it for you. That way you can check whether it can do what you want without having to buy the printer.
Yes. However, you may want to come up with a way to have the metal filaments hanging above the printer, rather than putting them on the side, as the stiff filaments don't like being bent that much.
@@lucas_pc_7712 because i owned several low budget printers and they are definitely not trouble free, you have to tinker a lot sometimes and depending on your needs and expectations you need to add mods yourself which also adds up in money. although this printer can also cause issues like many printers since they are complex machines, most of the time it's flawless. also you got a slicer specifically for this printer with preset print settings and filament settings. that's why i don't see any low budget printer as a suited beginner printer, since it can cause a lot of problems in the beginning whereas the prusa let's you jump right into printing. in my opinion it's the best beginner printer that is also for advanced users. for me though i'm looking for a professional printer now that lets me focus on my actual job. for you i can highly recommend it and hope you don't make the same mistake as i did falling for the cheap prices of anycubic, creality etc. If you don't want to pay that much for the prusa, but want a printer then go for it, but you will have a harder time.
Horse[_]! Ulti is just better ;) This is biased or possibly paid, so it's deceptive. Please... AM Academy...do you got anything more common with Raise3D then Ultimaker?
All the idiots on here talking about warranty this and customer support that, do you people not realize you can buy 20 of any other brand of 3d printer for the price of one of these over hyped over priced plastic covered chinese printers? I realize you all believe that these are not chinese but let me fill you in on a secret, there is almost nothing on earth you can buy that isn't manufactured in china or composed of 90% of its parts having been made in china. Not to mention if you took a whole 5 minutes and educated yourself youd be aware of the fact that you can a) like i said in my original statement buy 20 of any other brand of 3d printer and have 19 replacements for every part on the machine or b) buy much much higher quality components for half the money youre charged by these scam artist companies selling the same chinese shit everyone else sells for 50x the price, and build a far better printer than you can buy from raise3d or ultimaker. Octoprint is a thing and so are wireless enabled printer boards, plexiglass is dirt cheap and so is kanthal a1 thus building a network capable, enclosed with a heated build volume is not outside the realm of possibility or hard to achieve. Has anybody ever considered these things are nothing more than fancy "cnc" hot-glue guns? These things arent complicated or hard to make. Then again why learn anything when you can just outsource thinking to someone else if you have more dollars than sense which obviously is the case for anyone who would pay 5 grand for a machine that extrudes little lines of plastic about as reliably as a jaguar made in the 90's. doesn't matter how much you spend on the printer YOU are always going to be the weakest link unless you educate yourself on the subject, YOU still have to know how to slice the objects and where to apply supports, YOU still need to know temps, cooling,etc. Like i watched the whole video here and have watched several others and I've never seen the selling point of one of these "flagship" or "High-end" 3d printers when you can get quality prints from any printer if you know what youre doing or get shit quality prints from the best printers on earth if you have no clue. 3d printing isn't nor will it ever be just click and forget, or "plug and play" there is always going to be some manner of head scratching and troubleshooting, only you folks would rather pay an assload of money so you can spend half your day on the phone with customer support only to have your machine down for a week waiting on parts or waiting on customer support to get back to you about your most recent problem, when if you built it youd know how to fix it and end up with more time spent actually printing things.
Stopped reading after first fifth... yes. you are right... China is factory for earth... It's the quality control, and investment of final product selling company which matters... do your research or live a little you [_] [_]!
The s5 is a joke. Had two of them both got quality problems wich resulted in the worst print quality i have ever seen. And that was with the ultimaker profiles and their filament. Straight garbage quality. Not even considering the garbage Firmware they use on it. You want to start another abs print after the First one? Wait till it is cooled down. Can you Cancel that process? Of course not. You are just a stupid consumer. Oh and prepare for loading and wating times. Every ender 3 heats faster than an ultimaker. You want to cancel somthing? Cancelling is beeing prepared... wait wait wait. Start a printjob and return after 15 Minutes to See if it has started? Of course not. Still heating. Just throw them in the trash and get any China printer. Same quality but a small percentage of the price
The main features of these type of printers are the Build Volume, Dual Extrusion, Quality of Print and ease of use. But here I can see that Raise3D screwed up with Pro3 series regarding the Dual Extrusion build volume: Pro2: 280 x 305 x 300 mm | Pro2 Plus: 280 x 305 x 605 mm Pro3: 255 x 300 x 300 mm | Pro3 Plus: 255 x 300 x 605 mm Personally I was expecting Pro3: 300 x 300 x 305 mm in Dual Extrusion, but not the less
![Дон ДОН, Алаудинов и СБЕЖАВШИЕ из под Курска ахматовцы 😁 [Пародия]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/dEfCf5IK26Q/mqdefault.jpg)
is this video being sponsored by Raise3D? It seems extremely biased.
What advantages does the s5 have? I know there's the automatic material recognition and automatic printhead recognition that wasn't mentioned. I've been looking at used s5's, so what can you recommend about it?
That was a very biased comparision..
Just printed a calicat on my S5 and it was 20.01 x 20.02
5mm was 5.00x5.00!
Finish was really smooth.
And that is on a printer that is 1,5 years old and has been printing at least 80% of that time. No other maintenace than some oil.
One thing that I really like about the S5 is the filament detection device. Just put in any filament (from Ultimaker), and the printer detects it and puts all settings right automatically.
Im using the S5 as a tool. Im not very intrested in 3d printers at all. I just want to print and get a good result without problems. And that is what the S5 delivers. Im very satisfied with it.
Btw.. the filament is on the back of the S5 so you can put several printers side by side. A smart design that saves a lot of space.
Thanks for the video. We were recently faced with a choice between the two printers at the company. We then decided on the Ultimaker because the (industrial) operation of the Raise3D in Europe is not allowed. The aspect of the missing CE declaration according to the Machinery Directive 2006/42/EG was unfortunately left out in the video. The Ultimaker has this and also a good user manual in the local language. (German)
The certification is an important factor for integrating additive manufacturing in your production. I researched the topic and as it seems Raise3D got there certification for the Pro3 from TÜV Rheinland in June 22.
Sounds a bit biased for the Raise 3D. Ultimaker build plate gets higher temp but will take all day???? Obviously biased.
It is well known that Ultimaker's machine build quality is excellent and, so is the quality of its prints - also when the machine has been working hard for several years. That one sample shown does not look anything like typical Ultimaker quality to me, so I'm skeptical of the statement "I tried to be as objective as possible".
I agree i just pulled 2 prints from an S5 here at work and they are beautiful. You cant even see the layering
Most of the points in the video made sense . But I had better PLA quality on my Ender 6 (
@@ultra_busy most of the points in the video didn't make a sense or were true.
you don't buy Ulti S5 to print PLA but when you do you do "though PLA"... or fukin high end materials... also, they stole extruder change mechanism :D like microsoft stole panels in their web-browser :D ; explaining itself
Let's agree, they are just not comparable as some guy just have bias and possibly paid. (apples x oranges)
Still I would like to buy Ultimaker S5 Plus with doubled the volume space :D that would be beast :D
Comment on the leveling system.
I do have a remark (I am a user of Both; the Pro3 Plus and Ultimaker S5 + Pro bundle)
I do slightly find the Leveling system used by Raise3D slightly more clever. We run constant production and the nozzle's are sometimes slightly dirty.
On the Ultimaker, as it uses the Nozles themselves to measure the mesh correction, I do notice that the autoleveling isn't always as great as I want.. especially effecting the final Z-accuracy.
The Probe used on the Pro3 and the extra distance away from the nozzle (when pushed down for measurement) .. really tackles this issue.
So if I would put it to a score.. together with the faster leveling on parts that don't require full bed... I would still give it to the Pro3..
Nice video btw! I'm still at 4 minutes.. might have a few more comments.
I’m not ready to give up my S5. With Ultimakers material management system and the ability to start a print from any place in the world through Cura online factory it’s not going anywhere.
I believe the review was skewed slightly. I've used the S5 here at work and the prints are flawless. The smoothest lines I've seen on a printer. Its setting right next to a mark forged carbon printer that is equally as good and impressive!!
Raise3D also allows remote printing.
@@titansfan2104 "slightly" :D It couldn't be more obvious :D. Perhaps this blond guy is just paid...
I often used common sense, eyes and face micro-expressions and Occam's razor when it comes to interpreting someone, who may or may not be lying or be paid for something they not believe or they just don't care. Like this video.
If they break who you going to call.
I think the most important to me is support and warranty if you have a problem, along with available consumable parts that will need to be replaced sooner or later.
Still love the Ultimaker! Always works, print quality is still really good after a few years, really accurate, only thing is waiting time! Love the carbon and glas filled materials
I have a Pro 2 and can vouch for its reliability and usability. The Pro 3 just seems to be a strong incremental improvement, adding to the printer what few things it was missing (auto-leveling being the biggest upgrade).
I have seen tons of happy people with the ultimakers with better results than presented here. I have seen none with this printer yet. Marketing by attacking the competitor that has already proven to be best is not a nice move and I do not believe what has been told in this video. UM is worth the money and I worked a lot with different printers.
This comparison is so biased and shouldn't be taken serious at all.
This is an extremly biased video....
After countless hours spent to optimize settings in Cura, I switched to IdeaMaker and got immediately improved quality and nice productivity features. I have the impression Raise3d is more gearing toward industry while Ultimaker is now sitting without market between high end hobbist and industry... Clearly Ultimaker needs to cut its prices in half on existing lineup and develop much higher end lineup.
While this overview is a helpful comparison, there are several inaccuracies that are important to clarify.
1) Mesh bed leveling: Ultimaker does efficiently check points only around the printed part geometry - not just blindly around the entire bed.
2) Touch display: Ultimaker S5 shows print time remaining as standard. You only showed a single shot of the display, unlike what you did for the Raise. Simply swipe to the side to see what is being printed or tap to see print temp, build plate temp, material info, or tune any settings on the fly. There is also an intuitive workflow that helps you change print cores (nozzles), as well as automatically walking you through maintenance procedures. The UI has a ton of features easily accessible.
3) Build plates: Raise has spring steel standard. Ultimaker has glass standard and you can purchase a buildtak style flex plate from many vendors (I did this and they work great).
4) Ultimaker is made in the US (if purchasing in the Americas) and Netherlands (if purchasing in Europe). Raise is manufactured in Asia Pacific region.
It looks like Raise 3D still uses 2 ball screws for Z axis which causes wavy pattern along Z axis on the parts. That sucks. I expected they will make 3 ball screws for Z axix to stabilize the printing platform properly.
I have the Pro3 and the prints come out literally perfect. Only downsides of this printer is the print speed, and the insanely slow start-speed of the printer.
But anyway, there is zero patterns.
Ball screws are the most durable and accurate feature on a 3D printer, or any CNC
The guy is very biased in this comparison.
We have an ultimaker. Its has the ability to produce lovely prints but its slow. The main benefits of the ultimaker are the swappable print cores, cura and the material station. It automatically swapps filement when one spool runs out. It can easilly print any of the medium temp engineering materials. Its weaknesses are that its boden and doesnt have pressure advance, could run faster with input shaping, build plate results in z-wobble (not too bad but could be better) and doesnt print flexibles well.
One point is incorrect. The Ultimaker S5 keeps the last 10 prints in memory locally, even after a reboot. If you use the Ultimaker Digital Factory every print ever is kept in history.
I have not found a way to access old prints on the S5 without the digital factory. Is there a button I'm not seeing? It would be awesome if there is a way without the digital factory.
@@AMAcademyBayreuth Visit the Ip address of the machine. My comment seems to not stick. Apologies if this is a duplicate answer.
Hi, possibly I missed this in there but how does the speed compare? How about manual leveling (when I tried this on the Pro 2 I had to use an allen key on 9 screws I think vs ultimaker is much easier)? thanks
As for speed, the stock Pro3 is generally faster due to better mechanics. However, Raise3D just released their Hyper Upgrade Kit for the Pro3 (as an add-on) that can improve the speed 3-5x with only minor losses in accuracy and quality, if any. Even the recently announced Ultimaker S7 won't be able to do that.
As for manual leveling, it is still 9 screws and an allen key. However, due to the colored diagram on the screen it is now very easy to identify which screw needs how much adjusting. While manual leveling on the Pro2 could take quite a while, I can do it in a few minutes on the Pro3, most pf those waiting for the automated probing to finish (so I can have my diagram).
While the thumbscrews on the Ultimaker may seem easier, they also come out of alignment much faster (meaning you have to re-level) and testing whether you did a good job is more difficult. The colored diagram on the Pro3 lets you know at a glance whether you adjusted the screws properly and at the same time due to the way the plate is guided within the printer, it won't come out of alignment easily.
Did you live in the USA for a long time? Your American English is near flawless. I was halfway through the video before I realized you were German! 😆
hi, i really appreciate your video, learned a lot about the machines. my question would be if they are that more hassle free and have better print quality than Prusas (let's leave out the fact that those aren't enclosed). Prusas are already way more hassle free than the budget printers, but still can make a lot of problems and customer service is there, but not as educated as they should be. They just can't help with many problems. So i'm looking at a FDM that really just works for a small office that doesn't have time to tinker, has good customer service and doesn't suffer from warped beds, inconsistent extrusion (direct drive: issue 602 aka issue 6 on vorons) and insufficient cooling. Btw what is wrong with the print of the CaliCat on the s5, which looks better on any chinese budget printer? thanks, greetings to germany from austria.
Ultimaker Print Core CC can print at 300°C. Technology is changing and Ultimaker gives you upgrades as they become available. Having much greater market share than underdog Raise3D, they can afford more NRE that applies to all of their product line. Raise3D will always be lagging because they just don't have the revenue. You can't even compare Raise3D with Ultimaker for market share because Raise3D is not even on the list! Other trends for Raise3D show a company who is losing revenue as opposed to Ultimaker who is increasing. Not that I don't want to support the underdog, but Raise3D doesn't stand a chance to compete with Ultimaker. In face, no online source even lists the two companies as competitors.
I just can't figure out why Ultimaker are just sitting on the S5. They had hyped up a big reveal recently and then it was their washing station. I was hoping for a new, updated printer. The S5 just feels outdated in terms of its features and even its mainboard. But instead, they only want to update the S5 using firmware updates. It's just a bit disappointing to me so for now I'm on the bandwagon of the underdog I guess.
If Ultimaker come up with a new and improved printer or make significant changes, then I'll be happy to do a similar comparison, hopefully with far more even results.
Thanks a lot for this video. I was thinking for Raise Pro 3 or Ultimaker 5S and now I am sur of my choice.really thanks you so much. In France we will have it only in January but my retailer has one in test and confirm all the improvement made compare to the PRO 2
Kind regards
Eric
The Ultimaker can print metal with a binder which can get sent to a debinder and sintered for an actual metal component. Can the Raise3D do that?
WIth a suitable nozzle, yes. However, as metal filament is even more abrasive than the well-known fiber-filled filaments, it will wear out printer components other than the nozzle over time. If you will be exclusively printing metal filaments, a dedicated metal printer would be recommended. If interested, you can have a brief look at the Metalfuse that Raise3D will release soon or some of the Makerbot printers.
Great video, makes a lot of sense presented that way!
you have the software images backwards.
I’ve just got me a Pro 3 and it is the most amazing thing ever! Your comparison is very accurate. Thank you.
the S5 is just not off this time anymore it's outdated too say the least. same with the Prusa MK3S+
Thanks, great information!
what is print width (how thin a section can it print), how small a hole can it print? what is smallest layer thickness?
Print width and smallest hole both depend on your nozzle and slicing settings. If you use a 0.4mm nozzle and set the extrusion width to 0.4mm, the thinnest wall will be 0.4mm.
As for smallest layer thickness, it allows you to set it all the way down to 0.05mm, but then the print is so slow it's unbearable. I would recommend keeping layer height between 0.1mm for fine printing and 0.3mm for rougher (but faster) prints.
@@AMAcademyBayreuth Does Ultimaker S5 or S7 print with a 0.2mm nozzle. In that case can it print a .75mm wall (multiple passes) with a 0.5 mm radius on the top?
@@froggymountain It should generally be able to. You can always send the part to a service provider that uses the printer you want and have them print it for you. That way you can check whether it can do what you want without having to buy the printer.
Is Raise Pro 3 Plus able to use Ultrafuse filaments BASF to make metal parts?
Yes. However, you may want to come up with a way to have the metal filaments hanging above the printer, rather than putting them on the side, as the stiff filaments don't like being bent that much.
Dude you humiliate ultimaker s5 !!! More respect everybody uses cura for slicing
Which printer do you recommend to buy for a begginer? (It doest have to be the ones that appear in the video)
prusa mk3
@@ruffryder1337 why do you recommend it?
@@lucas_pc_7712 because i owned several low budget printers and they are definitely not trouble free, you have to tinker a lot sometimes and depending on your needs and expectations you need to add mods yourself which also adds up in money. although this printer can also cause issues like many printers since they are complex machines, most of the time it's flawless. also you got a slicer specifically for this printer with preset print settings and filament settings. that's why i don't see any low budget printer as a suited beginner printer, since it can cause a lot of problems in the beginning whereas the prusa let's you jump right into printing. in my opinion it's the best beginner printer that is also for advanced users. for me though i'm looking for a professional printer now that lets me focus on my actual job. for you i can highly recommend it and hope you don't make the same mistake as i did falling for the cheap prices of anycubic, creality etc. If you don't want to pay that much for the prusa, but want a printer then go for it, but you will have a harder time.
@@ruffryder1337 how much does it cost?
Prusa i3mk3+. Will take you a long way before you need another FDM printer.
Какой нахрен raise3d если печатать ты сможешь только на ultimaker , так как raise 3d не печатает либо глюки выдает
Не позорь русских и не неси бред.
did you test the machines?
There is a test print at the end of the video, but it is only a short portion. I'll hopefully have a few more parts to present in the future.
@@AMAcademyBayreuth What material was used and what material profile?
@@lrodriguezvideo Standard white PLA, and the unchanged PLA profiles with 0,2mm layer height that are in Cura and IdeaMaker.
@@AMAcademyBayreuth What brand is "standard" and you used the Generic profiles? Just wondering why you didn't use what was provided with the printer?
Horse[_]!
Ulti is just better ;)
This is biased or possibly paid, so it's deceptive.
Please... AM Academy...do you got anything more common with Raise3D then Ultimaker?
I agree. The Pro3 is the way to go.
Ultimaker have a black screen problem, I do not recomend this 3d print
All the idiots on here talking about warranty this and customer support that, do you people not realize you can buy 20 of any other brand of 3d printer for the price of one of these over hyped over priced plastic covered chinese printers? I realize you all believe that these are not chinese but let me fill you in on a secret, there is almost nothing on earth you can buy that isn't manufactured in china or composed of 90% of its parts having been made in china. Not to mention if you took a whole 5 minutes and educated yourself youd be aware of the fact that you can a) like i said in my original statement buy 20 of any other brand of 3d printer and have 19 replacements for every part on the machine or b) buy much much higher quality components for half the money youre charged by these scam artist companies selling the same chinese shit everyone else sells for 50x the price, and build a far better printer than you can buy from raise3d or ultimaker. Octoprint is a thing and so are wireless enabled printer boards, plexiglass is dirt cheap and so is kanthal a1 thus building a network capable, enclosed with a heated build volume is not outside the realm of possibility or hard to achieve. Has anybody ever considered these things are nothing more than fancy "cnc" hot-glue guns? These things arent complicated or hard to make. Then again why learn anything when you can just outsource thinking to someone else if you have more dollars than sense which obviously is the case for anyone who would pay 5 grand for a machine that extrudes little lines of plastic about as reliably as a jaguar made in the 90's. doesn't matter how much you spend on the printer YOU are always going to be the weakest link unless you educate yourself on the subject, YOU still have to know how to slice the objects and where to apply supports, YOU still need to know temps, cooling,etc. Like i watched the whole video here and have watched several others and I've never seen the selling point of one of these "flagship" or "High-end" 3d printers when you can get quality prints from any printer if you know what youre doing or get shit quality prints from the best printers on earth if you have no clue. 3d printing isn't nor will it ever be just click and forget, or "plug and play" there is always going to be some manner of head scratching and troubleshooting, only you folks would rather pay an assload of money so you can spend half your day on the phone with customer support only to have your machine down for a week waiting on parts or waiting on customer support to get back to you about your most recent problem, when if you built it youd know how to fix it and end up with more time spent actually printing things.
So what do you suggest?
Stopped reading after first fifth... yes. you are right... China is factory for earth...
It's the quality control, and investment of final product selling company which matters... do your research or live a little you [_] [_]!
The s5 is a joke. Had two of them both got quality problems wich resulted in the worst print quality i have ever seen. And that was with the ultimaker profiles and their filament. Straight garbage quality. Not even considering the garbage Firmware they use on it. You want to start another abs print after the First one? Wait till it is cooled down. Can you Cancel that process? Of course not. You are just a stupid consumer. Oh and prepare for loading and wating times. Every ender 3 heats faster than an ultimaker. You want to cancel somthing? Cancelling is beeing prepared... wait wait wait. Start a printjob and return after 15 Minutes to See if it has started? Of course not. Still heating. Just throw them in the trash and get any China printer. Same quality but a small percentage of the price
You know nothing about heating.... it's heating longer, because of higher temperature :D > more stable results... [_] you!
@@zabazelena123 hi i got 3 3d printers that heat faster and with a Higher end Temperatur than the s5. And the s5 overshoots its target everytime
@@voktanagain5106 ok. which printers?
@@zabazelena123 ender 3 sidewinder x1 raise3d e2 raise3d pro2
You seriously bro 14:30?
The main features of these type of printers are the Build Volume, Dual Extrusion, Quality of Print and ease of use.
But here I can see that Raise3D screwed up with Pro3 series regarding the Dual Extrusion build volume:
Pro2: 280 x 305 x 300 mm | Pro2 Plus: 280 x 305 x 605 mm
Pro3: 255 x 300 x 300 mm | Pro3 Plus: 255 x 300 x 605 mm
Personally I was expecting Pro3: 300 x 300 x 305 mm in Dual Extrusion, but not the less