2008 FJR 1300 - forks and steering head bearings
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- Опубліковано 16 лют 2020
- This is the second in a two part video where I go through the front end on my 2008 Yamaha FJR 1300 that I bought in the Fall of 2019.
This video covers front fork inspection and fluid change, Steering head Bearings Inspection and re-touque.
I wish I had a shop around here that would do that good of a job I'd drop mine off tomorrow.
Excellent video!!! This should have 1M views; you did a great job.
Thank you i appreciate that
Mm
Nice video, just bought a 2008 FJR with 11,000 miles on it. Noticed head bearing were way loose and adjusted those. I will be heading to the store to get fork oil, cable lube and that nut spanner today.
Excellent! Nothing beats the feeling of a smooth front end.
Enjoyed your video nice, got to replace my lower shock linkage dogbone Bearings soon,
One of my upcoming projects is rear shock upgrade. Thanks for the comment.
Something that might help, you mentioned having to use an impact wrench to get the top cap off on the cylinder (around the 1:20 mark). Maybe I missed it, but if you leave the lower clamp tight and loosen the top clamp, you'll take some of the pressure off the threads on the top cap and it should come loose pretty easy. It's likely the top clamp was compressing things enough to make it too tight to remove with basic hand tools.
That's good point. I had loosen the top bolts on the tree, that didn't make the final cut for the video. But in this case the left, it was really cranked on there. The right came off as was to be expected. Not sure if there was an oil weepage issue on last service that the person felt they needed to do that or what. I had found other issues on that FJ that torque settings were wrong. Front wheel pinch bolts as an example. Rule of thumb, buying a used bike, never take anything for granted. Thanks for your input.
@@SCWMoto
I have my 2013 FJR apart for fork seals. I didn't completely disassemble them, just removed the seals, rinsed everything out inside and I'll put it back together when the new seals get here in a couple days. The right side was starting to leak pretty bad. Anything you can think of to look out for? The specs give an amount of oil (670cc) to put back in, but also a spec for distance (100mm) to the top, but with the springs removed and forks compressed. Sounds like I'll have to disassemble it anyway.
@@mikebyers2832 I would use the 670 cc number lightly. If you haven't completely drained and flushed. It's a good start to getting you to your measured fill line. The only advise i can give is to grease the fork tube and sand off with fone grit any pitting on the tube before sliding the seal on. And be very careful passing the seal over the tube past the bush as not to nick it. You can use a thin plastic bag, cellophane, or even a balloon with the rim cut off. All greased up of course. Good luck.
Thats why its called a pinch bolt, stupid...
super helpful. thanks for sharing! I also talk to myself while working on the bike, but I don't video myself, bc I'm always saying "shit, damn" and other curse words... thanks for sharing!
Lol I hear ya, I can be a treasure troves of colorful. metaphors too. Cracking knuckles on a wrench slip are good for a dance routine too
Ouch! Loosen the top pinch bolts before wrecking the fork caps on any bike.
How many miles are on the odometer? Thanks for the video. Very detailed, good video, well explained. FJR found a good home.
The FJR has 25,000 + a few hundred miles. Very fun and easy bike to ride. Thanks for the comment.
Is there an issue getting the fork lined up correctly? Would it help to put the front wheel on before cinching up the fork pinch bolts to torque setting just to make sure everything lines up right?
Where the upper tubes slide through the trees is pretty meaty so they self align. The lowers, rotate around the tube so there is no issue with alignment with the axle. The only gotcha is to make sure the forks sit on the axle square. If not, they can bind when compressed, prematurely wearing the bushings. The method for that is while the axle pinch bolts are loose, split the difference on lateral play on the axle bolt. Thanks for the comment, ride safe..
I would use the tail of a caliper to measure the distance from the fork cap to the triple tree from the same spot and record that distance before the fork is serviced. If the fork was previously serviced, you don't have an accurate reference point.
I'm planning this type of mx on my 2009 asap but I'm trying to figure out the best way to suspend the front of the bike so I can take the fork off. How did you do it?
ua-cam.com/video/k93CU5sY1wQ/v-deo.html
This is part 1 where I talk to that around 5:30. It also covers front wheel removal.
Also, where did you get your service manual?
I downloaded the free from the Web I'm not sure exactly where. But they are available. True service manuals.
Can you tell in Grams how much oil you put in each fork? ...Thanks
Sorry i wouldn't know that. The measurement is in a fluid measurement or volume/level measurement. I chose the later because i didn't fully disassemble the forks.
@@SCWMoto ok thanks
Side note, the specified oil levels are different for the left and right fork legs.
Left side 24.21 US oz, 25.20 Imp oz
Right side 23.46 US oz, 24.43 Imp oz
From the top of the inner tube Without the spring in it and fully compressed the fork oil should be 4.17 inches, 106 mm from the top on the left fork, and 3.54 inches, 90mm from the top on the right side. Hope this helps. Nice video.
@@THE-APEX many thanks for that
Wrong way to service a fork, always wash out the fork with a solvent brake cleaner, ideally fully strip for a thorough clean & inspect, bushes could be shot, you'll never know if you don't inspect, never refill the oil by volume, compress & refill within 20mm of the top, bleed the inner cartridge with damper rod installed, then syphon off to the required air gap, this is the only way to get both oil levels the exact same in each leg also you remove the top fork cap incorrectly ... always loosen the top yoke pinch bolt then use a snug fitting single hex spanner or socket on the cap, double hex have less nut grip, avoid at all costs, using a rag over the alloy nut will limit nut damage, be firm & slow & crack loose the cap, then loosen the lower yoke pinch bolts & drop out the fork legs for service.