How To Torque A Motorcycle Steering Nut And Bearing Assembly Yamaha FJR 1300 ES
Вставка
- Опубліковано 28 вер 2014
- Visit TwoWheelObsession.com for all the new content!
My Bike Reviews:
• 2014 Yamaha FJR 1300 E...
My How-To Videos:
• How To Detail A Motorc...
My Vlogs:
• The Start Of TwoWheelO...
Gear Overview Videos:
• Sena GP-10-A0202 Water...
All AIMExpo 2014 Coverage:
• 2014 AIMExpo Show Demo...
Leesburg Bikefest 2015 Videos:
• Complete Leesburg Bike...
Follow on Facebook: / twowheelo
Some music by ichillmusic.com
TwoWheelObsession features content by like-minded motovloggers literally around the world. Here you will find how-tos, tips & tricks, tours, rides around local areas, tours of events big and small, bike and product reviews - anything bike related you can think of, we have! It’s all about fun out on the open road with your motorcycle no matter what brand you ride or love! Harley Davidson, Yamaha, Suzuki, Honda, Kawasaki, Triumph, KTM, BMW, Aprilia, Ducati, Victory, Star - hey if it’s on two wheels it’s all good! You might also find some epic fails, police chases, wheelies, stunts, crashes - ok just kidding :) Police Motorcycle Competition Videos: • Video Join My FJR Enthusiasts group: / 793722307402142 AIMexpo 2015: • 2015 AIMexpo .
If you have a common question it is probably answered here: twowheelobsession.com/faq/ .
Police Motorcycle Competition:
• Full Video With Crashe... .
My editing/gaming build consists of:
• Playlist
My FZ09 / MT09 Mods:
Front Cowl: amzn.to/2jHBG5Q
Fog Light Kit: Yamaha Part BS2854A30000
Fog Light Bracket: Yamaha Part BS2854A50000
EBC HH Pads NEED 2 SETS: amzn.to/2soiCwe
Radiator Guard: amzn.to/2AnMz6P
LED Signals NEED 2 SETS: YME-W0789-00-00
LED Flasher Relay: tstindustries.com/TST-LED-Fla...
Gilles Tooling Brake Lever: amzn.to/2AnQaSl Yamaha Part 1RC-H39A0-V0-00
Gilles Tooling Clutch Lever: amzn.to/2BFqUp1 Yamaha Part 1RC-H39B0-V0-00
Rizoma Reverse Retro Mirror NEED 2: amzn.to/2gLbW7X Part BS070B
Rizoma Bar adapters NEED 2 Part LP300B
Rizoma Universal Bar Ends Pair: amzn.to/2kV9fp5 Part MA534B
Yoshimura R77 Full Exhaust WORKS Finish: amzn.to/2BC8yoJ
USB Port & Pigtail Kit: amzn.to/2zYGtL3
X-Grip: amzn.to/2ifSBwc
RAM Mount: amzn.to/2jHlFNs
Short RAM Arm: amzn.to/2BGcchl
Rubber Footpegs: amzn.to/2jI15fL
Yamaha Comfort Seat: amzn.to/2BE8TY6 Part BS2F47C0V000
Quickshifter Part BS2E81A0V000
Stoltecmoto.com Full Suspension & Brake Relocate Kit
Vcyclenut.com ECU Flash & Dyno Tune
Nelson-Rigg 2015 Magnetic Tank Bag: amzn.to/2AnFxPn
Nelson-Rigg Sport Tail Bag: amzn.to/2kha8rV
TWO recommended products: www.amazon.com/shop/twowheelo...
Visit TwoWheelObsession.com for all the new content!
My other channels:
CigarObsession: / cigarobsession
My Bike Reviews:
• 2014 Yamaha FJR 1300 E...
My How-To Videos:
• How To Detail A Motorc...
My Vlogs:
• The Start Of TwoWheelO...
Gear Overview Videos:
• Sena GP-10-A0202 Water...
Follow on Facebook: / twowheelo
Some music by ichillmusic.com
Join My FJR Enthusiasts group: / 793722307402142
If you have a common question it is probably answered here: twowheelobsession.com/faq/
My editing/gaming build consists of:
• Playlist Some background music by www.ichillmusic.com #motorcycle #motorcycles #howto #motovlog #review
As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases. - Розваги
If I'm thinking about the physics correctly, the length of the steering nut tool will not affect the torque setting provided you are applying force only in-line with the tool. The simple way to achieve this is to make the torque wrench perpendicular to the tool, then pull perpendicular to the wrench. So it's good you're emphasizing that angle.
Thanks for all your videos Bryan, they truly help. The only changes I made to this one was to unplug the wires going to the front forks and the shop manual said to torque the centre shaft nut before the pinch bolts. Next up for me will be a carb sync once I buy the gauges.
Got it done! All your videos are great. Keep up the excellent work. Has helped me tremendously on my new FJR1300ES!!
torque the steering head nut before the pinch bolts.
That can twist the top triple out of line with the bottom one, do the nut up hand tight to pull the clamp down then tighten the pinch bolts, then torque the nut...
It would seem that it would be better to torque the center bolt then snug down the pinch bolts.
I agree. The service manual says that you should temporarily tighten the upper fork bolts but does not give a torque, then tighten the center nut, then go back and tighten the upper bolts to torque. If you torque those first, there is a chance of the upper triple being uneven - I had that. So when I loosened them I could torque the center nut again (which means there was a gap created by the unevenness, if that makes sense).
Again a super video from you!. Thanks, I have seen all your fkr video's and it helps me greatly.
Yet another great video Bryan. Who needs Haynes etc when we have your clear and concise videos? I'm going to change the engine oil and drive shaft oil when they arrive.
Thanks man - big help - going outside to do this now.
Love your videos. Extremely helpful
As usual - Very helpful. Thank you.
I got this coming up on my used 2016(book says 4k miles, mines at 3k. I'll probably just do it when I get back from my out of state work trip).
I'll have an extra step to take care of(previous owner put a set of helibar riser on it and I never bothered to take it off, they sit in the way of that big 36mm nut), hopefully that doesn't make thing too difficult.
Great Video. Very helpful. Thank you.
your Videos are a Great help. thanks
Fantastic instructions thank you.
once again great video. i have just turned 5000 and am pretty sure this has not been done. lots of great info,,, thanks
Thank you! I will now attempt this myself.
Nice Video ... FYI, the 36mm socket is also useful for swingarm service ..
Good stuff. What brand torque wrench are you using there? Looking forward to video on what lube goes specifically where for regularly scheduled maintenance lube points.
Thanks for the great instructional video and information. I have a 2016 SYM HD 200 (171 cc) with 7500 miles. Upon cruising along at any speed above 25 or so and slightly releasing my fingers off the bar, the entire bar and front end wobble like crazy! Super spooky for sure.
This cannot just be an unbalanced tire can it? Been told the factory Duro tires are junk by a few folks but I cannot imagine the incredible huge wobbling is a function of bad tires.
Anyway, thanks for all the expert information!
Dean Jackson
Seattle
I had a sym. Great lil scooter. Picked it up for 500$ with only 1500 miles. Didn't start when purchased. Cost me an hr and a dollar to replace some fuses and clean the carbs. Put 3000 miles on it no other mods or maintenance. And swapped it and an additional 500$ for a pretty sweet 2002 Honda rebel 250 that had about 2000 miles. She's still riding strong with about 6000 on her. And recently bought a 2001 vstar classic 650 with 5000 miles. Still getting use to the size and weight. Only had her a few weeks but loving the step up.
What are your thoughts on the socket they sell on eBay from the UK that fits it perfectly with a 1/2” ratchet? Is the tourque and all that applied the same?
Yep good one, Thanks again!
Suzuki bikes specify the resistance needed to move the handlebars with a special spring, more complex but more precise.
Nice job!!
Use a quilt or movers pad to protect the tank!! Nice job!
Great video!
Excellent, thanks saved me $$$
Hi Bryan, great video as usual. I'm doing this procedure tomorrow and its a great warm up and reminder. I did purchase the C wrench and the steering head socket. After testing the socket fit, or trying, I noticed that if the bars are fully in the rear position, the socket will not fit over the head bolt. I'm imagining I will need to remove the bars from the triple tree first to get the socket to fit. I also have the ES (2016). So it appears I will be pulling the triple tree off without the bars attached. I don't expect that will cause any issues. I also see another commenter, suggested torque the steering head bolt first then the pinch bolts. Not sure if that matters, but logically makes sense. Question, my steering head nut has come loose twice, first after recent purchase of the bike (used), then serviced by a reputable mechanic, and is loose again. As I have the tools I plan to do it this time myself to confirm its done properly. Has yours come loose "ever"? I am wondering if I will need to check and correct two or three times a season, which for me doesn't seem right.
My steering head nut was loose when I purchased my 2018 last December. I didn't discover it until a few months later while waiting for my parts to come in for the recall. I really think if it is torqued correctly that it won't happen. I never had an issue with my '08 FJR. I guess you could always use a little blue Loctite for insurance. I will be doing this procedure as soon as I get my spanner wrench in. Good luck with yours!
I have the bars in the rear position and the socket I bought fit. Outside diameter of the socket is 46.5mm if that helps and it fits just without touching the handlebars.
Sorry to bother you, I've looked online and went to a local Yamaha dealer near me but can not locate the spanner wrench needed for the 1300 FJR, Is it possible to be pointed to where I can get my hands on one?
How do you check for proper play int he steeringhead after torquing. Should there be some resistance or just free movement,
Suzuki does, with a special spring to measure the right resistance. Much. more precise.
thanks for this video, it's great as usual.. I just torqued mine. Bryan is it possible to remove the electronic suspension plug on ES/AE model so the upper bracket comes off more easily or you have to code the system if taken off? thanks for your help.
I have two questions for you. Seeing how much the nut turned in headed towards 37ftlbs from the position where you found it, it looked like you went at least a full revolution, would you say your bearings had virtually no pre-load on them? If the nut had already been at 13ftlbs I doubt it would take another full revolution to go to 37ftlbs. You checked the top nut in advance to see if it was at 85ftlbs, did you do the same for the bearing nut off camera? Also a comment about your order reinstalling the triple clamp and tot nut. If you tighten the pinch bolts on the clamps first when you go to tighten the nut aren't you just fighting against their clamping force? Shouldn't the nut be torqued first and then the pinch bolts be tightened?
I think the centre nut should be done first too.
Hi sorry to bother you, any idea how many mm is the 2 bearings nuts? i want to get the special spanner but the seller says to me that there is 2 yamaha nuts and he doesn't know which spanner to give me 38mm or 40-43mm ,i don't have my yamaha with me at the moment i am in England UK and i can't remember
The nut is 40.67mm in diameter
Thanks a lot
seller sent me a 38mm one i will try to make it 2mm bigger with a file
great channel love all your videos. i just bought a 2005 fjr with 54000 miles on it. i wanted to buy a cheap one to make sure i like the ridind position,comfort ect before i go and shell out big money for a newer one. when accelerating hard and above 80 mph i found the front end gets very squirly and upsets the handling on the bike. any thoughts on this would be greatly appreciated . keep up the good work
If the bearings are good that’s usually a bad/worn tire.
Niamh Galligan this is a very common issue with the fjr's. I personally wouldn't own one because of it. A nice new tire will get rid of the wobble for the most part. But this is an underlying geometry issue imo.
@@TheLogicalLowdown Rise the back of the bike 3cm and problem solved.
Hi. I have FJR 2007. I found free play on swingarm (side to side) about 1mm. Is it normal? Can you check it on your bike? If it is not normal do you have "how to change bearings"?
+Tom Kann I will check next time I have the wheel off but my instinct would be it's probably not normal. I'll have a bearing service vid when it's due.
Hey! I know this guy! Cigar Obsession!
As long as you don't laugh like your brother, Seth Rogen, I will remain subscribed.
By the way, why are you always using an Algebra book. As a math teacher, that realy hurts you know. Please use a historybook or so.
By the assembly, should you not have put the centercap first and then the small pichbolts. Now the pichbolts are keeping the upper plate on its place, but you want it to properly lock in place.
My torckspecs were way of!!
Greets, Bert B.
Omg!! Do not ever ever ever tighten the pinch b4 the top nut. You will not get preload and possibly damage threads