If you are going to regularly replace, just use the Tarrett studs for both the calipers and the brackets. I've replaced a knuckle - you don't want to. If you do this much, the bracket studs are MUCH easier, too!! Highly recommended. Also, the bracket bolt locations vary by the car model. Unplugging the sensor wires can be frustration - maybe a totally separate video! A caliper retractor used after the new pads are installed makes them go on the caliper much easier, especially if you have studs. (And use Castrol React SRF brake fluid - I insist!)
They are apparently stretch bolts (what I was told by the dealership). You can probably just torque them to a slightly higher spec if you re-use the bolt. I paid for new bolts - it was about $120 for 4 corners.
Ordering the thread chaser kit - never even knew about that. Also the hard brake like to the caliper is one of the most frustrating things about these cars. I have done a LOT of brake pad changes on a lot of cars over the years and my GT3 is one of the more annoying ones because of that stupid hard line and bracket (compounded by the fact that I know if I chip one of my PCCB rotors, I just bought myself a $5K replacement (per rotor!)
Another well informative with great quality video, which would apply in general & not just with Porsche. Suggest a nice set of titanium wheel studs & bolts to make wheel fitting easier. I’m 60 years of age & have been tinkering on cars since day one & never ever heard or seen anyone use these bolt thread chasers that you referred to, but always wondered (being a perfectionist & anal retentive). With brake pads, highly recommend Pagid blue RS42. By far the best pads I’ve ever had on my very heavy 86 Bmw 635csi when I was competing at club track days. Excellent bite when cold & could never get the brakes to fade (factory brakes) with a car weighing 400lbs more than the Gt4. The front pads would do 6 full track days & the rears easily see 12 track days. Don’t waste your money on Castro SRF (synthetic race fluid), just too expensive & unnecessary. In addition, being SRF, it absorbs moisture more quickly, which is not practical for a road car. I found ATE Blue Racing Fluid (not a SRF) an excellent alternative & value for money. Always bled the brakes after each track day as basic preventative maintenance & never had any issues with the brakes.
I might be wrong but I think you reversed the list of tires to use with the Clubsport vs Endurance brake pad compound. Using a street/track hybrid pad like the DS2500 on Hoosiers and full racing slicks definitely seems off.
Yes, those bracket bolts are frustrating. Thanks for the great info. Do you have an Amazon affiliate list of your recommended products? Or a discount code for Tarrett? Cheers.
really nice job! I needed a quick refresh and not a long first timers video. ...Oh, BTW, how many time have you broken off your wiper arm? Saw you video on that. ...I have done in 3 time in the 2 years since I bought my 718 GT4!!! I track the car a lot and went to the Girodisc pads ...definately get more life out of them. Thanks again!
Sorry about that, the UK is a little more strict. Here my warranty could be questioned if something about the brakes was affected by the studs. However, there's very little that can be affected.
@@JetFuelOnly if you blow up the engine (which is not uncommon) and it has a different throttle body and map I'm sure they will decline the claim worldwide though.
Error Alert! At 10:41 I say 12mm hex but they are 10mm hex.
If you are going to regularly replace, just use the Tarrett studs for both the calipers and the brackets. I've replaced a knuckle - you don't want to. If you do this much, the bracket studs are MUCH easier, too!! Highly recommended. Also, the bracket bolt locations vary by the car model. Unplugging the sensor wires can be frustration - maybe a totally separate video! A caliper retractor used after the new pads are installed makes them go on the caliper much easier, especially if you have studs. (And use Castrol React SRF brake fluid - I insist!)
Well presented. 🙏
They are apparently stretch bolts (what I was told by the dealership). You can probably just torque them to a slightly higher spec if you re-use the bolt. I paid for new bolts - it was about $120 for 4 corners.
Ordering the thread chaser kit - never even knew about that. Also the hard brake like to the caliper is one of the most frustrating things about these cars. I have done a LOT of brake pad changes on a lot of cars over the years and my GT3 is one of the more annoying ones because of that stupid hard line and bracket (compounded by the fact that I know if I chip one of my PCCB rotors, I just bought myself a $5K replacement (per rotor!)
Another well informative with great quality video, which would apply in general & not just with Porsche.
Suggest a nice set of titanium wheel studs & bolts to make wheel fitting easier.
I’m 60 years of age & have been tinkering on cars since day one & never ever heard or seen anyone use these bolt thread chasers that you referred to, but always wondered (being a perfectionist & anal retentive).
With brake pads, highly recommend Pagid blue RS42. By far the best pads I’ve ever had on my very heavy 86 Bmw 635csi when I was competing at club track days. Excellent bite when cold & could never get the brakes to fade (factory brakes) with a car weighing 400lbs more than the Gt4. The front pads would do 6 full track days & the rears easily see 12 track days.
Don’t waste your money on Castro SRF (synthetic race fluid), just too expensive & unnecessary. In addition, being SRF, it absorbs moisture more quickly, which is not practical for a road car. I found ATE Blue Racing Fluid (not a SRF) an excellent alternative & value for money. Always bled the brakes after each track day as basic preventative maintenance & never had any issues with the brakes.
Thanks for the info and feedback John!
I also replaced the caliper bolts when I changed my rotors/pads. I picked up the chaser kit from your link, it's on Prime day discount
Awesome!
I might be wrong but I think you reversed the list of tires to use with the Clubsport vs Endurance brake pad compound. Using a street/track hybrid pad like the DS2500 on Hoosiers and full racing slicks definitely seems off.
Good eye! You are correct I seemed to have swapped the list
Yes, those bracket bolts are frustrating. Thanks for the great info. Do you have an Amazon affiliate list of your recommended products? Or a discount code for Tarrett? Cheers.
No Tarrett discount code, I wish! Just the Amazon links in the description. Thanks for watching!
really nice job! I needed a quick refresh and not a long first timers video. ...Oh, BTW, how many time have you broken off your wiper arm? Saw you video on that. ...I have done in 3 time in the 2 years since I bought my 718 GT4!!! I track the car a lot and went to the Girodisc pads ...definately get more life out of them. Thanks again!
3 times! Wow now I don’t feel so bad. 😂. I have still only done it the one time but there was a second time I got lucky and it didn’t break.
Do you use any grease (like MS33) on the caliper bolts to prevent galling between the steel bolts and aluminum knuckle?
I have not used any. I’ve also since switch to the Tarett Caliper Studs.
I would love to do the studs on my GT4, but Porsche in the UK will void the warranty :(
Sorry about that, the UK is a little more strict. Here my warranty could be questioned if something about the brakes was affected by the studs. However, there's very little that can be affected.
@@JetFuelOnly if you blow up the engine (which is not uncommon) and it has a different throttle body and map I'm sure they will decline the claim worldwide though.
@@panagiotisathanasopoulos absolutely