The home is lowered onto the block wall by adjusting the stands. Each stand has a bolt and nut system used for leveling the home. Would you like me to make a video of that procedure?
There are many videos on UA-cam showing how to make and use a water level. I made one from 50 ft of 1/4” clear plastic tubing and a clear plastic jug. I put a hole in the top of the jug and stuck to tube so it went to the bottom. I added water about 3/4 full and put food coloring in it so I could see the water better. Set the jug next to what you’re measuring like bottom of the frame and allow the water to gravity feed to the end of the tube with no air bubbles. Lift the end of the tube to another part of the frame you’re trying to level. The water line in the jug will be level with the water line at the end of the tube. Raise or lower the jug so the water line to level with the frame then check the other end and adjust the frame to match the water line in the tube. Don’t drop the tubing. I taped it to a clamp so I didn’t have to hold onto it all the time. The reason for the jug is so that the water level doesn’t fluctuate so much as you’re moving the other end of the tubing around to different locations.
You start at the most level area of the house. Usually there is one spot that hasn’t sunk down. The areas that usually need to be leveled will most likely be wet causing the blocks to sink. Fix the water problem first. You can also go inside the house with a long level and see where the floor slopes. Once it’s level you’ll find all your doors will close properly. Hope this helps.
In many areas back in the day there were no building codes for Mobile homes. It was up to the installer to “do a good job”. I wanted to attach an Rv garage to my mobile home so I had to make it permanent as if it was site built. All engineered and approved by our building department.
Great tool invention! Love it!!! Spring loader 👍I appreciate your ingenuity and detailed instructions! Boy you weren’t kidding about the psi were you?! But boy howdy does that thing make light an otherwise all but impossible job (short off moving the mobile first🥵). THANK YOU!!! I’ll be watching your channel in the future for more great ideas! 👍🙏☺️
John, I've made a similar tool using water for digging--typically for fruit trees--it helps to use a tee and a 6-8" nipple on the side for a 2nd handle. And a cap of course. You must have quite the compressor.
After pouring the footings I screwed 2x8 pressure treated lumber to the bottom the mobile. Then tacked sil sealer and a metal drip edge onto the 2x8. This keeps bugs from crawling up the foundation walls and into the crawl space. Then drilled and screwed 11” lag bolts with large washers through the 2x8 and into the floor joists exactly every 48” so that the bolts protrude down into the cavity of the block. Build up the block to within 1” of the bottom of the 2x8 then lower the Mobilehome onto the block. This is done very carefully one stand at a time only about 1/4 of an inch at a time at each stand. Then holes and drilled into the block so the wet concrete can be pumped into the wall. When dry the concrete strengthens the wall, encasing the lag bolts holding the house firmly.
I'm in the middle of having a hack jack up my double wide and reset it. He's lifted the one end all the way while leaving the tongue end at original height to get the axles on, the lifted the front end up. Isn't he supposed to lift it level? He swears it's the way the manufacturer wants it done, "he wouldn't put his guys under one of those leveling systems due to safety concerns" etc. It destroyed my home, 1/2 inch cracks at all sheetrock corners some totally sheered, ripped exterior siding and 2 broken windows, one the frame is broken at a miter. I need info and some help with knowing what is the standard and what he SHOULD have done. It is done now, hope to find someone else to re set it. I looked for a couple of months and everyone recommended this guy, wish I could've had you do it. Please message me I'd like to talk to you on the phone if possible. I fear I'll have to sue him, he says "no damage caused is his problem" but there's literally no one else to do the job, it's going 130 miles to North Idaho.Thank you for the video, great job and information.
The Fix. Sounds like you should sue him. Leveling a Mobilehome is not that hard. Find out which jacks have sunk and jack each up a little at a time until the frames are level again. Usually it’s one corner. If there’s water causing the blocks to sink into the dirt you’re going to have to solve that problem. Then you check all the door openings for square to be sure the doors all close properly. A long level inside on the floor will work if it’s only a small area to fix. You can level it yourself using a clear hose as a water level. That’s on UA-cam also. Make sure the house is safe and stable before you go under. Sounds like the guy you hired had no idea what he was doing. I listed my phone number a few comments back.
The Fix. I read your comment again and I may have misunderstood. Are you trying to have the home relocated? If so that’s a whole different story. I’m not a Mobilehome mover but I know that any time a Mobilehome is moved it must stay level. When the home was originally delivered there were no drywall cracks or broken windows so there shouldn’t be any now. Hire another mover before he wrecks your house completely. Hope this help.
Mine was set on an existing concrete foundation. Frame welded to I-beams that are inset and bolted into foundation . seems like a sturdy set up. Home is considered "real property" as it's a permanently my fixed.
@@rottmanthanwas it originally considered a mobile/manufactured home and you got it changed by changing the foundation? If so, what was the process. Asking from NC.
@@youknow1334 it was always a double wide manufactured home and was always on a slab. just by putting it on a slab and connecting it to utilities makes it real property. probably helps if i were to sell.
A week ago I replaced all of the Fresh Water lines under a mobile home and it was held up by Cinder Blocks and T Post's as flood straps! I was like (My God! no way they think that will hold this place) it was crazy! My old double wide which had recently burned down it was set up properly, Jack Stands, 16" x 16" x 5" Blocks double stacked under the jack stands real flood straps were drove 8 ft into the ground at a 45 Degree angle.
If you check out my channel you’ll see why I put it on a permanent foundation since I was then able to add onto the house. You’ll see the garage construction, semi truck repair, boats etc.
Keep in mind that with a conventional mobile home, even with a block skirting, the home does NOT rest on the perimeter block wall. The space remains in order to adjust the level of the home as needed and the space is covered my a board.
Yes Jason, I hired structural engineer Jason Hale at Core Structure Group in Prescott AZ. He had a Mobilehome company inspect my plan and Yavapai County was ok with it.
Thank you. We love it here. I have a lot of other videos on my channel. Since the home is permanently affixed I was able to attach a laundry room addition and a big Rv garage.
The only thing i would have done differently is I would just formed the trailer foundation to the required height then just used concrete all the way, a monolithic pour. Great work just the same, im not to far from you over in Young, AZ.
I was thinking of doing that but building and tearing down the inside forms would be more time under the house than I would like. All the block work was done from the outside. If I had to do it again I would’ve raised the house up another 2 ft. which would’ve given me an actual crawl space.
@@JohnVH-diy I found an old single wide in excellent condition for free up on the Rim at Forest Lakes so I'm debating on how to do the foundation down here so I may do it exactly like you did if concrete is to pricey anyway. You appear to have great views from your location, thanks for the reply.
The system I used was Square tubing and rollers and 2 4ft long bottle jacks each with a capacity of 22 tons the way I did this was raised the house up put blocks of wood under the tubing out side the foundation then set up the square tubing inside the foundation with custm made jack stands using the bottle jacks on the Jack stands we rolled the house over the foundation and locked the rollers in place then jacked up one side pulled safety pins lowered that side to the next hole put pins in and repeat
Thank you. After I made this foundation permanent, the county slowed me to attach a laundry room and a large RV garage. See my other videos for that build and others you may find interesting.
Mr. John, I have been trying to find someone that can do this to my mobile home, but no want do it because the mobile home is already set up, do you have any recommendations?
Block foundations are always constructed after the home is set up. Most mobilehome companies can build it for you. Block foundations are nice because you can then push dirt up to the foundation then depending on your land slopes you can add a patio or walkways like I did. The difference between the typical block foundation and mine is that the footings are much larger and actually support the perimeter of the home. The blocks are filled with concrete and the walls and floor are permanently attached to the block. Most companies will not do what I did unless you pay a lot of money. That’s why I did it myself.
Yes you don’t need to lay block. You can use all sorts of materials. Wood, vinyl, stone. But If you want to attach an addition to your home you need to make sure it can never settle or be moved in any way. That’s why I made it a permanent foundation just like a site built home. I attached a 10x 20 room and a 26x 45 ft garage. All inspected and permitted.
I have an important question, are you a contractor? If so, where are you located? I need to know if you are available for hire in my area, I may have a job for you, not sure if you can do it all I will have to watch more videos to see, but you are pretty darn smart
Darn that too far for me to hire ya lol I’m up in Oregon 🙄but boy I would hire you any day! Your very knowledgeable and I’m sure your very busy because it’s hard to find hard working intelligent men that don’t cut corners and can actually think on their feet an solve problems not just band aid them! Thank you so much! Nicely done! God bless and please keep sharing as I’ll be watching for more great tips! 🥰
You need adequate footings under anything that has weight on it. If you have a standard manufactured or mobile home which is supported by stands and you want to make the structure permanent then yes you pour footings under each stand and the exterior to support the weight.
I was just waiting for the camera Lense to crack when you were blasting dirt right at the camera...LOL C0ool tool... How much PSI..? That was a lottta work..! How much did you spend.?
It was a commercial diesel air compressor commonly used to supply air to a jack hammer. I believe around 2000 psi. And yes I was also worried about the camera. I can’t tell you how much I spent on the project because I was also building a garage at the same time and didn’t separate the bills. You can see the rest of the build on my channel.
I wasn’t trying to say anything during the trenching. I was merely showing how the tool works. This was also my first attempt at UA-cam. If you check my channel you’ll see the rest of my projects from the large Rv garage, semi truck builds and my latest boat restorations.
Found the perfect manufacturer home then got the bad news that its not on a permanent foundation so my VA loan won’t work for it. How much does it cost to put it on a permanent foundation on the land its already on?
You’re best bet is to contact a Mobilehome installer for an estimate. Just remember that their version of a permanent foundation is not what I did on my house. They still leave a gap between the house and blocks and cover it with a wide trim board. This gap allows for leveling in the future. My house is actually resting and bolted to the foundation blocks like a site built home. This process is much more expensive but slows you to attach an addition to the home.
My mobile home is not on a permanent foundation but I still used my VA to buy it. It's more of a lender requiring it than the VA. Check with a different lender
Did you hire a structural engineer? Just curious, the town I live in is requiring me to hire one before they will allow me to skirt my double-wide and your project is basically what the building inspector said I needed to do. Prescott Valley government at it's finest!...lol
Did you make it load bearing as in let the weight of home down on the block? I’m fixing to buy a double wide, and plan on having the exterior block load bearing and have a loan bearing wall in the center and have it holding the marriage wall,
Appreciation depends on many factors like your local housing market, lender requirements etc. I wanted to build onto the home therefore it needed to be permanently immovable. If you look at my other videos you’ll see the attached RV garage and laundry room. I must say my taxes did go up but mostly because of the additions.
John may I ask a question - can an existing mobile (not on a foundation), but connected to an addition (with a foundation), be converted? Said differently, can a "foundation" be built for the mobile with keeping the mobile still and connected?
Yes, but since there’s a addition you would not be able to lower it onto the foundation. You would have to squeezed in the upper row of blocks which may even have to be cut down to fit. In your case I would build wood forms inside and out and do a mono pour similar to a basement.
@@JohnVH-diy John thanks so much for the reply,...may I ask you guess as to a range of cost for that?, foundation & ties making it a "permanent foundation"? (so I can get a mortgage on it :) thanks for any guesses on price range
That’s where you’re wrong. The perimeter of the house sits directly on the block. The block rests on a traditional footing just like a site built house. Lag bolts are screwed up into the floor joists protruding down into the block. Cement is pumped into the block cavities creating a solid wall. Under the house are also concrete footings supporting each stand. The 24”x24” footings are 18” deep resting on undisturbed soil just like the perimeter footings. The house is deemed permanent by a HUD certified inspector and by our county building inspector. Since it is permanent and can’t ever be moved or adjusted, I was given permits to add additions to the house.
I would love to be able to answer that but since I didn’t pay myself it’s really hard to say. There are many Mobilehome installers who can install a block stem wall. Most of the new installs have them but very few actually attach the home permanently like a stick built home. If I were to do this for a customer I would ask 10 k. It’s a lot of hard work.
I didn’t keep track of the money exactly. My best guess would be about 12k but that was way before Covid and the price increases in materials. My labor was free of course. It’s easy to calculate using a concrete calculator app. Your block supplier can estimate the amount of block needed for your project. They need the size if your building and height. Hope this helps.
@@azzip3246 Uh...no. Mobile homes are trailers. You register them just like you would register a trailer. They don't meet HUD standards. Manufactured homes on the other hand meet HUD standards. You don't register them with the DMV like you would a trailer.
@@OddTimeMan funny. Had an 84 single wide with a HUD tag. Title came from the state department of commerce. Still couldn't get home owners insurance because it was built on a steel trailer chassis and had axles . Best I got was like camper trailer coverage. 🤷♀️
@@Og-Judy The axles and front hitch are temporary. They're only for transporting the home to your property. You have to remove the axles and front hitch, and then anchor the home to the ground.
But if a manufactured home was built in 1978 , and it can be hauled outta’ there no prob.... hence the term “ mobile home “. That’s why interest rates can be higher , because even post 1976 manufactured homes can be a riskier investment for Lenders.
Not sure what you mean about saving time or money. Maybe explain. Yes it was a lot of work and it cost a lot of money, but I was then able to legally attach an addition to mymobile home with permits.
Joe Ryco Videos -As soon as you put a building on a foundation it’s no longer considered "mobile", which means town/city/county property taxes sky rocket. Yes, the resale value goes up as well, so it depends on if you are trying to live in the home or sell it soon. So never make improvements while living in the home, wait until you are about to sell it and won’t care if the improvements jack up the property taxes.
My taxes on this home went up $200. year. Small price to pay for being able to add additions to the home. Value went from 90k to 450k. Check out my other videos of the construction of the RV garage.
If you saw the additions I added to the mh and were acquainted with our rise in home values you would agree with the recent appraisal. I wouldn’t have done all this work if I weren’t certain of the financial outcome. At the end of the day it’s MY house.
The newer ones here now have block foundations and stem walls. They call them permanent because there are metal straps nailed to the house and imbedded in the block with concrete. They still have wood wedges taking up the gap between the block and the house frame which are adjustable in case the block settles. The settling occurs because the footings are not deep or wide enough. However it’s better that the old tie down straps and plastic skirting.
The home is lowered onto the block wall by adjusting the stands. Each stand has a bolt and nut system used for leveling the home. Would you like me to make a video of that procedure?
Hi, how do you level it with water level ? Where do you start ?
There are many videos on UA-cam showing how to make and use a water level. I made one from 50 ft of 1/4” clear plastic tubing and a clear plastic jug. I put a hole in the top of the jug and stuck to tube so it went to the bottom. I added water about 3/4 full and put food coloring in it so I could see the water better. Set the jug next to what you’re measuring like bottom of the frame and allow the water to gravity feed to the end of the tube with no air bubbles. Lift the end of the tube to another part of the frame you’re trying to level. The water line in the jug will be level with the water line at the end of the tube. Raise or lower the jug so the water line to level with the frame then check the other end and adjust the frame to match the water line in the tube. Don’t drop the tubing. I taped it to a clamp so I didn’t have to hold onto it all the time. The reason for the jug is so that the water level doesn’t fluctuate so much as you’re moving the other end of the tubing around to different locations.
You start at the most level area of the house. Usually there is one spot that hasn’t sunk down. The areas that usually need to be leveled will most likely be wet causing the blocks to sink. Fix the water problem first. You can also go inside the house with a long level and see where the floor slopes. Once it’s level you’ll find all your doors will close properly. Hope this helps.
Yes everything plz
Yes, please.
Your hard work has paid off. Great job. Very informative. Thank you for sharing this.
In many areas back in the day there were no building codes for Mobile homes. It was up to the installer to “do a good job”. I wanted to attach an Rv garage to my mobile home so I had to make it permanent as if it was site built. All engineered and approved by our building department.
Great tool invention! Love it!!! Spring loader 👍I appreciate your ingenuity and detailed instructions! Boy you weren’t kidding about the psi were you?! But boy howdy does that thing make light an otherwise all but impossible job (short off moving the mobile first🥵). THANK YOU!!! I’ll be watching your channel in the future for more great ideas! 👍🙏☺️
John, I've made a similar tool using water for digging--typically for fruit trees--it helps to use a tee and a 6-8" nipple on the side for a 2nd handle. And a cap of course. You must have quite the compressor.
I rented an industrial compressor similar to the ones they use to run a jack hammer for road construction.
After pouring the footings I screwed 2x8 pressure treated lumber to the bottom the mobile. Then tacked sil sealer and a metal drip edge onto the 2x8. This keeps bugs from crawling up the foundation walls and into the crawl space. Then drilled and screwed 11” lag bolts with large washers through the 2x8 and into the floor joists exactly every 48” so that the bolts protrude down into the cavity of the block. Build up the block to within 1” of the bottom of the 2x8 then lower the Mobilehome onto the block. This is done very carefully one stand at a time only about 1/4 of an inch at a time at each stand. Then holes and drilled into the block so the wet concrete can be pumped into the wall. When dry the concrete strengthens the wall, encasing the lag bolts holding the house firmly.
I'm in the middle of having a hack jack up my double wide and reset it. He's lifted the one end all the way while leaving the tongue end at original height to get the axles on, the lifted the front end up. Isn't he supposed to lift it level? He swears it's the way the manufacturer wants it done, "he wouldn't put his guys under one of those leveling systems due to safety concerns" etc. It destroyed my home, 1/2 inch cracks at all sheetrock corners some totally sheered, ripped exterior siding and 2 broken windows, one the frame is broken at a miter. I need info and some help with knowing what is the standard and what he SHOULD have done. It is done now, hope to find someone else to re set it. I looked for a couple of months and everyone recommended this guy, wish I could've had you do it.
Please message me I'd like to talk to you on the phone if possible. I fear I'll have to sue him, he says "no damage caused is his problem" but there's literally no one else to do the job, it's going 130 miles to North Idaho.Thank you for the video, great job and information.
The Fix. Sounds like you should sue him. Leveling a Mobilehome is not that hard. Find out which jacks have sunk and jack each up a little at a time until the frames are level again. Usually it’s one corner. If there’s water causing the blocks to sink into the dirt you’re going to have to solve that problem. Then you check all the door openings for square to be sure the doors all close properly. A long level inside on the floor will work if it’s only a small area to fix. You can level it yourself using a clear hose as a water level. That’s on UA-cam also. Make sure the house is safe and stable before you go under. Sounds like the guy you hired had no idea what he was doing. I listed my phone number a few comments back.
The Fix. I read your comment again and I may have misunderstood. Are you trying to have the home relocated? If so that’s a whole different story. I’m not a Mobilehome mover but I know that any time a Mobilehome is moved it must stay level. When the home was originally delivered there were no drywall cracks or broken windows so there shouldn’t be any now. Hire another mover before he wrecks your house completely. Hope this help.
Mine was set on an existing concrete foundation. Frame welded to I-beams that are inset and bolted into foundation . seems like a sturdy set up. Home is considered "real property" as it's a permanently my fixed.
What state are you in? I wonder if it works like that in Louisiana?
my double wide is also in a slab and is considered real property.
@@rottmanthanwas it originally considered a mobile/manufactured home and you got it changed by changing the foundation? If so, what was the process. Asking from NC.
@@youknow1334 it was always a double wide manufactured home and was always on a slab. just by putting it on a slab and connecting it to utilities makes it real property. probably helps if i were to sell.
A week ago I replaced all of the Fresh Water lines under a mobile home and it was held up by Cinder Blocks and T Post's as flood straps! I was like (My God! no way they think that will hold this place) it was crazy! My old double wide which had recently burned down it was set up properly, Jack Stands, 16" x 16" x 5" Blocks double stacked under the jack stands real flood straps were drove 8 ft into the ground at a 45 Degree angle.
Yes the exterior walls are load bearing. You must also support the marriage walls as well as the four main I beams.
GREAT JOB SIR ! I applaud 👏 you , my hat 🧢 off to you!!
Thanks for posting John, amazing job!
If you check out my channel you’ll see why I put it on a permanent foundation since I was then able to add onto the house. You’ll see the garage construction, semi truck repair, boats etc.
Keep in mind that with a conventional mobile home, even with a block skirting, the home does NOT rest on the perimeter block wall. The space remains in order to adjust the level of the home as needed and the space is covered my a board.
OMG! You hit me in the eye with one of them flying stones! Watch where you point that thing..........
Here in TX, I saw some foundations like this settled in the dirt after several years. Drainage is still the most important thing for this foundation.
Brilliant! Way to go John!
Yes Jason, I hired structural engineer Jason Hale at Core Structure Group in Prescott AZ. He had a Mobilehome company inspect my plan and Yavapai County was ok with it.
How much you pay for the structural engineer?. I m looking to do the same on my
I believe it cost me about $600.
I’m the state of New Mexico we use cinder block not a metal stands that’s only for office buildings
Hello how much does it cost to do all that thank you I’m trying to find somebody to do the same work
I wonder how well that air tool will work in some of that Louisiana gumbo mud!
Like a pressure washer that's filled with shit
I love the view beautiful.. That is a really awesome invention.
Thank you. We love it here. I have a lot of other videos on my channel. Since the home is permanently affixed I was able to attach a laundry room addition and a big Rv garage.
The only thing i would have done differently is I would just formed the trailer foundation to the required height then just used concrete all the way, a monolithic pour. Great work just the same, im not to far from you over in Young, AZ.
I was thinking of doing that but building and tearing down the inside forms would be more time under the house than I would like. All the block work was done from the outside. If I had to do it again I would’ve raised the house up another 2 ft. which would’ve given me an actual crawl space.
@@JohnVH-diy I found an old single wide in excellent condition for free up on the Rim at Forest Lakes so I'm debating on how to do the foundation down here so I may do it exactly like you did if concrete is to pricey anyway. You appear to have great views from your location, thanks for the reply.
Nice job, thanks for posting
You don’t know our real estate market. I also added a large Rv garage and laundry room. See that build on the rest of my channel.
John, how did you do top block layer on the ends where metal frame is only a few inches from the edge of the home?
The system I used was Square tubing and rollers and 2 4ft long bottle jacks each with a capacity of 22 tons the way I did this was raised the house up put blocks of wood under the tubing out side the foundation then set up the square tubing inside the foundation with custm made jack stands using the bottle jacks on the Jack stands we rolled the house over the foundation and locked the rollers in place then jacked up one side pulled safety pins lowered that side to the next hole put pins in and repeat
Wow! What an interesting video.
Thank you. After I made this foundation permanent, the county slowed me to attach a laundry room and a large RV garage. See my other videos for that build and others you may find interesting.
Mr. John, I have been trying to find someone that can do this to my mobile home, but no want do it because the mobile home is already set up, do you have any recommendations?
Block foundations are always constructed after the home is set up. Most mobilehome companies can build it for you.
Block foundations are nice because you can then push dirt up to the foundation then depending on your land slopes you can add a patio or walkways like I did.
The difference between the typical block foundation and mine is that the footings are much larger and actually support the perimeter of the home. The blocks are filled with concrete and the walls and floor are permanently attached to the block.
Most companies will not do what I did unless you pay a lot of money. That’s why I did it myself.
U don't need to lay block u can use retaining wall block it's block skirting
Yes you don’t need to lay block. You can use all sorts of materials. Wood, vinyl, stone. But If you want to attach an addition to your home you need to make sure it can never settle or be moved in any way. That’s why I made it a permanent foundation just like a site built home.
I attached a 10x 20 room and a 26x 45 ft garage. All inspected and permitted.
Good job 👍 good job 👏🏼. Looks like California or somewhere close
Arizona
I have an important question, are you a contractor? If so, where are you located? I need to know if you are available for hire in my area, I may have a job for you, not sure if you can do it all I will have to watch more videos to see, but you are pretty darn smart
I’m in the Prescott AZ area. I also have a handyman business.
Darn that too far for me to hire ya lol I’m up in Oregon 🙄but boy I would hire you any day! Your very knowledgeable and I’m sure your very busy because it’s hard to find hard working intelligent men that don’t cut corners and can actually think on their feet an solve problems not just band aid them! Thank you so much! Nicely done! God bless and please keep sharing as I’ll be watching for more great tips! 🥰
@@shawnie2027 Thanks. Check out my other videos on trucks, boats, landscaping etc.
Plan on putting fountain around a double-decker, but do I still need to pour footing below each I-beam,
You need adequate footings under anything that has weight on it. If you have a standard manufactured or mobile home which is supported by stands and you want to make the structure permanent then yes you pour footings under each stand and the exterior to support the weight.
I was just waiting for the camera Lense to crack when you were blasting dirt right at the camera...LOL C0ool tool... How much PSI..? That was a lottta work..! How much did you spend.?
It was a commercial diesel air compressor commonly used to supply air to a jack hammer. I believe around 2000 psi. And yes I was also worried about the camera. I can’t tell you how much I spent on the project because I was also building a garage at the same time and didn’t separate the bills. You can see the rest of the build on my channel.
Wish I could give a thumbs up. Audio was poor couldn’t hear you. I’m sure it was helpful information if I could hear it.
I wasn’t trying to say anything during the trenching. I was merely showing how the tool works. This was also my first attempt at UA-cam. If you check my channel you’ll see the rest of my projects from the large Rv garage, semi truck builds and my latest boat restorations.
Sorry for the noise level of the trencher. This was my first attempt at a UA-cam vid.
Found the perfect manufacturer home then got the bad news that its not on a permanent foundation so my VA loan won’t work for it. How much does it cost to put it on a permanent foundation on the land its already on?
You’re best bet is to contact a Mobilehome installer for an estimate. Just remember that their version of a permanent foundation is not what I did on my house. They still leave a gap between the house and blocks and cover it with a wide trim board. This gap allows for leveling in the future. My house is actually resting and bolted to the foundation blocks like a site built home. This process is much more expensive but slows you to attach an addition to the home.
My mobile home is not on a permanent foundation but I still used my VA to buy it. It's more of a lender requiring it than the VA. Check with a different lender
Do you still have to level it every 3 to 5 years or so? After permanent foundation?
No leveling needed if done correctly
Would this air trencher work on Virginia red clay?
Probably not in clay. The material I was digging in was compacted gravel and dry dirt mixture
What was the price for everything
Do you have a video on a ground set for a singlewide?
Sorry I Dont. This is my own home project but the basic procedure is the same for a single wide.
Pretty neat creating the air tool…
still not sure how you correct the space above the concrete block and bottom of the home
Usually wooden shims are used
I lowered the house directly on top of the block stem wall.
would you recommend using tractor trailer ratchet strap to tie down a mobile home?
I wouldn’t recommend a ratchet strap. There are several HUD approved systems for tying down a standard mobile home.
Do you think you can do it with out anyone knowing it
You can do it. But if you want to sell your "updated" mobile home, you might run into the problem, paper wise.
Did you hire a structural engineer? Just curious, the town I live in is requiring me to hire one before they will allow me to skirt my double-wide and your project is basically what the building inspector said I needed to do. Prescott Valley government at it's finest!...lol
I used Jason Hale Engineering and Hometech Foundation Systems. Both in the Prescott area.
@@JohnVH-diy Thank you, I had HomeTech take care of it about 18 months ago
@@AntTherianwhat does something like this cost?
@@quezdagod7620 It was about $7,500
@@AntTherian appreciate it. That’s actually not as bad as I thought it would be. I’m looking to have mine put onto a permanent foundation as well.
Great job
John, where are you located? I am looking for someone in southwestern Idaho to do exactly what you did here.
I’m in Arizona
Thank you 🙏
Did you make it load bearing as in let the weight of home down on the block? I’m fixing to buy a double wide, and plan on having the exterior block load bearing and have a loan bearing wall in the center and have it holding the marriage wall,
Yes I made the block walls load bearing as well as the interior supports.
Good job.
The rock doesn't go to China because earth is flat. But great video, thank you
😂😂😂😂
Oh you one those flat earth crazies huh?1🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣
Does it appreciate since it’s in a permanent foundation?
Appreciation depends on many factors like your local housing market, lender requirements etc. I wanted to build onto the home therefore it needed to be permanently immovable. If you look at my other videos you’ll see the attached RV garage and laundry room. I must say my taxes did go up but mostly because of the additions.
@@JohnVH-diy thank you
John may I ask a question - can an existing mobile (not on a foundation), but connected to an addition (with a foundation), be converted? Said differently, can a "foundation" be built for the mobile with keeping the mobile still and connected?
Yes, but since there’s a addition you would not be able to lower it onto the foundation. You would have to squeezed in the upper row of blocks which may even have to be cut down to fit. In your case I would build wood forms inside and out and do a mono pour similar to a basement.
@@JohnVH-diy John thanks so much for the reply,...may I ask you guess as to a range of cost for that?, foundation & ties making it a "permanent foundation"? (so I can get a mortgage on it :) thanks for any guesses on price range
@@jimmareno2732 If you had to pay a company to do it for you I’m guessing around $15,000.
All that is is a block skirting. The Jack's still hold them up. It's not a foundation
That’s where you’re wrong. The perimeter of the house sits directly on the block. The block rests on a traditional footing just like a site built house. Lag bolts are screwed up into the floor joists protruding down into the block. Cement is pumped into the block cavities creating a solid wall.
Under the house are also concrete footings supporting each stand. The 24”x24” footings are 18” deep resting on undisturbed soil just like the perimeter footings.
The house is deemed permanent by a HUD certified inspector and by our county building inspector.
Since it is permanent and can’t ever be moved or adjusted, I was given permits to add additions to the house.
Hey John, how much would it cost to pay someone qualified to this? I know it would vary from state to state. How much in your state for example?
I would love to be able to answer that but since I didn’t pay myself it’s really hard to say. There are many Mobilehome installers who can install a block stem wall. Most of the new installs have them but very few actually attach the home permanently like a stick built home. If I were to do this for a customer I would ask 10 k. It’s a lot of hard work.
@@JohnVH-diy Thanks
So how much did you spend doing this block foundation?
I didn’t keep track of the money exactly. My best guess would be about 12k but that was way before Covid and the price increases in materials. My labor was free of course. It’s easy to calculate using a concrete calculator app. Your block supplier can estimate the amount of block needed for your project. They need the size if your building and height. Hope this helps.
How much would you charge to do a 14’x 80’ ?
I’m not a contractor so I couldn’t do this for you or even tell you how much exactly
@@JohnVH-diy can you give me a ball park what it cost you?
@@MichaelJohnson-jo2hg My best guess is about $7,000
Probably not so well. Need to be dry I think.
Remove all metal stands. In time they will rust to nothing.
I live in Arizona. Nothing rusts here unless it sits in water.
If your home was built after 1976, then it's not a mobile home, it's a manufactured home. They're very different.
You’re totally tricked by the marketing.
@@azzip3246 Uh...no. Mobile homes are trailers. You register them just like you would register a trailer. They don't meet HUD standards. Manufactured homes on the other hand meet HUD standards. You don't register them with the DMV like you would a trailer.
@@OddTimeMan funny. Had an 84 single wide with a HUD tag. Title came from the state department of commerce. Still couldn't get home owners insurance because it was built on a steel trailer chassis and had axles . Best I got was like camper trailer coverage. 🤷♀️
@@Og-Judy The axles and front hitch are temporary. They're only for transporting the home to your property. You have to remove the axles and front hitch, and then anchor the home to the ground.
But if a manufactured home was built in 1978 , and it can be hauled outta’ there no prob.... hence the term “ mobile home “. That’s why interest rates can be higher , because even post 1976 manufactured homes can be a riskier investment for Lenders.
Thankyou
#500!
😢. I don't think this saves any time money or frustration. But thanks for the video😊
Not sure what you mean about saving time or money. Maybe explain. Yes it was a lot of work and it cost a lot of money, but I was then able to legally attach an addition to mymobile home with permits.
Cant hear you but nice vid
Hopefully the home owners are aware their taxes will go way up.
Yes but the resale value, because of the additions that I added to it, went from 90k to about 400k. Check out my other related videos.
why is that?
Joe Ryco Videos -As soon as you put a building on a foundation it’s no longer considered "mobile", which means town/city/county property taxes sky rocket. Yes, the resale value goes up as well, so it depends on if you are trying to live in the home or sell it soon. So never make improvements while living in the home, wait until you are about to sell it and won’t care if the improvements jack up the property taxes.
My taxes on this home went up $200. year. Small price to pay for being able to add additions to the home. Value went from 90k to 450k. Check out my other videos of the construction of the RV garage.
If you saw the additions I added to the mh and were acquainted with our rise in home values you would agree with the recent appraisal. I wouldn’t have done all this work if I weren’t certain of the financial outcome. At the end of the day it’s MY house.
AN existing mobile home ….
I had to skip the wond noise is terrible
Sorry about the wind noise but the tool produces a lot of wind to move the stones.
doesn't seam like its worth it
That’s not a permanent foundation!
Why to you say it’s not permanent?
Feel free to call me 928-460-2363 John
You won’t find that here in sc there already set up on permanent block an pad
The newer ones here now have block foundations and stem walls. They call them permanent because there are metal straps nailed to the house and imbedded in the block with concrete. They still have wood wedges taking up the gap between the block and the house frame which are adjustable in case the block settles. The settling occurs because the footings are not deep or wide enough. However it’s better that the old tie down straps and plastic skirting.