Yeah..if i had to guess from his videos, that his porn star career is still quite alive.. although UA-cam won't let him show the hard core inter-electronic erotica..
Despite being relatively simple, this is somehow the only good video I could find on UA-cam on how to properly do this. Using the K tip and solder sucker really helped me.
Brilliant suggestion for a beginner's first project. Having even a small amount of soldering proficiency opens up world of possibilities. There are a lot of "broken" games and consoles out there that need little more than this type of basic soldering to get back up and running. I got my main Genesis for free because a solder joint on the power input jack was broken. Took me all of 3 minutes to repair! If I may suggest another good beginner project: replacing the caps in retro console power supplies. I've opened up a fair amount of Genesis and SNES PSU's and seen leaky caps. Cheap, easy, and can make a difference!
The original xbox has leaky caps too. I'd recommend trying to get a hold of one of those and trying that out as well! I'd love to see some love for the og xbox.
@@LordHondros oh geez, I forgot I heard about this a few years ago. Maybe I'll make my old garage sale NES and OG Xbox my first cap replacement projects.
As one of those beginners aspiring to tame an iron like you do one day, I greatly appreciate your tips and tricks. I finally decided to start a channel repairing consoles to kick off my retro console collection, and content like yours is in part what got me excited about this hobby and eager to learn more. Look forward to learning more from you, Lord. Your humble subject and student, Borderline OCD.
I wish there was enough space in GB and GBA carts to implement a cell battery holder rather than the tabbed cell style, but you make it look easy as always
amazing work as usual, I find it really nice to give newer people with less soldering experience a good walk-through of proper practice. Welcome back Voultar
I love those CR2032 battery holders. They can really save your ass on nearly any project that requires a new CR2032. Plus they look darn neat as replacements to the tabbed CR2032. On a recent GameCube refurbishing I was just so pleased that the battery holder fit on the controller board.
@@Mario00064 I think it really varies depending on the type of solder you're using. The usual temperature I work with is 350C / 660F. That works well for me for these heavy joints.
@@jamiecruickshank9697 Thank you very much. Would this also be true for general soldering? For example, installing a mod kit such as DCdigital, UltraHDMI, etc?
Mario00064 Pretty much, i would sometimes nudge it down a little if I am soldering very close to plastic connectors to about 300 but start at 350 and practice a little and you will close.
I usually go about 330-340C, but that's just me, since I mostly work on a lot of pre-NES stuff, with more fragile traces than post NES stuff. Anywhere around there, temp wise ought to be fine though. 👍
This is super helpful, thanks. I can do some really basic soldering with pinball machines, like running a big wire to a lug on a coil, but working on PCBs is still way over my head. It is something I need to learn how to do though so I'll try swapping out batteries on some of my SNES games like you demonstrated here. They need new ones anyway!
Should do a video on how to replace a battery without losing the saves. It's easy but I'm sure you can give it a thousand steps I don't even think about anymore.
That duo of KSGER stations, again, thank you for the recommendation, is the best soldering station I've ever had, I use mine a lot and even did a couple of SNES and a PC motherboard recap using it, thank you, is the best money I've ever spent on a soldering gear.
Do like seeing a cart get given a second chance at keeping its memories. Would love to see more stuff like this, or maybe repairs for common console faults.
In the years i have been soldering, i had never thought of cut down the legs before removing the component. I feel so stupid now. You Have beeen the Channel I have directed people to for years, you have taught me drag soldering.
The flush surface mount battery holders you recommend have changed the length of the negative pin by 60% since you did this video. They snap so easy now, even when I'm simply straightening out the pin. I feel the pins are a bit wider now too. They barely go into the hole (a good problem to be had for men in most cases). I have to "bore" the hole out with a snapped pin to ensure it passes through. After removing the battery I'm refilling the hole with solder, then vacuuming everything out with a Hakko FR-301 to ensure I get all the old solder out. I remove all the solder from both pads before proceeding. Just mentioning that to make sure you know I'm doing my due diligence. When I do finally get one seated, I'm worried that the negative pin will snap at some point post-soldering because of the stress of bending the pin straight. It's very weak. Perhaps it would snap during the battery change process? They go in very tight (herp derp). I like the idea of these replaceable button cells, but I don't know if it's worth the possibility of loosing saves so I don't have to solder in traditional batteries once every twenty years. What do you think?
I got some of these and the negative side is indeed longer now. If you're careful, use a sturdy but thin tweezer and bend it close to where it meets the plastic, it won't snap off. To me the positive end seems more flimsy and on the verge of breaking-after soldering though some solder creeps up it which hopefully is enough reinforcement. Definitely don't try to bend either more than once or it will snap (had that happen once). Also, I thought the negative didn't fit at first either, but there was a hint of solder around the edge. One more shot with the solder sucker and it slid in easy in a second with gentle rocking. Then I trimmed the long piece off and reflowed that side. Fit in the case snug as hell, but it worked. I also suggest anyone trying this to definitely use something like a K tip, so the solder melts instantly. Safer and easier.
Great video as always! One thing that happened to me last time I replaced a Gameboy cartridge battery: I ordered some cheap tabbed batteries, and to my surprise, the top tab was soldered to the negative side of the batery. "No big deal" I thought, "I'll just flip it". Ends up the battery wasn't somehow powering the volatile memory, issue that I solved by isolating the positive side from the PCB with some tape (I assumed it was shorting). Just something I'd want to share to someone who might run into the same issue.
I used some of the techniques in this video for replacing the capacitors on my PC Engines. The stock caps have bent leads when they were soldered in and the old solder is only meltable at higher temps without introducing rosin core lead solder that melts at lower temps. Using the heat and rock out technique, I managed to replace all 20 or so caps on each pc engine. The only thing I had to do extra was because one via that ripped out of the PC Engine and I had to patch the trace direct to the negative capacitor leg on the large cap on the right side. Other than that it was a much easier job than probably using a desoldering station.
Those battery holders are great. I had to go double check my spare battery holders, to make sure they didn't have tabs like that. I'd be mortified if been installing them wrong all this time. Pleased to say they don't and I wasn't. Great guide as ever!
Really happy Voultar is back! I would really appreciate if you could show your solder tip temps (°C/°F) in your beginners guide videos. I am still struggling to finde the right temps myself. Stay safe!
Im just casually waiting for you to hit 1 million. To get the popularity you deserve. Cause ive been using all your videos as soldering tutorials and tutorials on mods i wanna do and can never afford on my retro consoles and computers
Thank you for this video. I have screwed up more than a couple things on my own and this is a great way to go back and actually learn what I should be doing.
A well made 30 year old coin cell battery still comes out shiny, while my rechargeable 16 pack of triple a's from our dear friends in China corroded to shit in an hour lol
Sometime back in the mid 1980's is an undisclosed location "how much battery time should be in these games? How about 25-30 years? That should be more than enough, no one will be playing these games that long." It has been 35 years or so since Dragon Warrior came out and it is still saving on the original battery.
7:01 ok that's where I went wrong with those holders. I ended up getting the ones with the bracket already attached because my dumb ass was trying to open the pins without a battery inserted, causing them to break apart. IDK why I didn't think to put the battery in during assembly. :(
I love the beginner videos, i ordered the soldering station you recommend (hopefully ill crack it open and not find watch gears or smurfs), and I’m stoked to practice with batteries and eventually beyond.
Can confirm this is a great way to begin soldering. Thanks for the great tutorial Voultar! I will say be careful when bending the tabs on the battery slot trays. The soldering was easy but I killed 4 slot trays. 🤣
Hail Lord Voultar! So awesome you broke out that Gen 2 Sega Genesis. I just recapped mine with a kit from Console5. Can’t wait to see what you do to that bad boy and the T1000 love juices. 🦾
Thank you so much! This is very helpful! I'm a beginner at soldering so this was really easy to follow along and I will reference this when I replace the battery in my Pokemon games.
When I was first learning how to solder I changed a battery on a Super Nintendo game I didn’t have the right tools at the time, while I was desoldering it the battery got too hot and blew up in my eye!!! I thought I was blinded in my left eye but after an hour of washing my eye out The next day it was better but for months I had solder burns around my eye and it scabbed up it looked horrible!! So please have the right tools and wear safety glasses and have fun!!!! (Voultar you’re videos are the best out there!!)
A tiny tip, that some beginners might find useful. I got some tiny plastic "clamps" from the hardware store. A bit like clothes-pins, and very cheap... One of those is very useful to keep the battery in place, while soldering it on. :)
Hey Voultar, thank you so much for this, it’s greatly appreciated! Any chance for a more intermediate video next? For example, explaining the different types of solder (you mentioned lead-free, 60/40, etc. - which to a beginner is over my head). I also wonder what temperatures you’re working with - I’m always concerned about going too hot to damage the cartridge PCB. (If there’s an older video covering this please let me know; I’ll admit I’ve only been around for a year or two!)
Is there a way of replacing the battery without clearing the savefile without having a way to backup the saves? I could imagine hot-swapping it while having the game loaded and save it after the battery is replaced, but it seems a bit risky.
Nice tutorial man!! I ended up getting the same KSGER T12 soldering station on your recommendation and I've actually ended up using it a hell of a lot more than my Weller WES51. Just an awesome piece of hardware!! 😁.
Those battery holders the thinnest ones you can get? I have a bunch from a different brand that I had to use my snippers to attack because they wouldn't fit into my n64 memory pak
I had to dremel some edges back when trying to fit them in certain NES cartridges. They are low enough to fit all the ones I've done. I did have to install one on the back of a pcb once because a component was in the way.
Voultar, could you please talk about wire gauges/sizes for specific aplications, like what size use for power, for video signals, and or batteries?, Mostly for the portabilizing projects? Hope you can help us here, thanks for the quality videos as always!
Voultar is Deadpool. Just better looking or he is using some high tech facial masking CGI. Change my mind...without the knives, bombs, or really hot pokie things.
My soldering skills are lacking but I practiced on a Logitech mouse and figured it out. The only issue I am having now is VIA's getting them to clear, I also suggest adding a battery holder away from the PCB so you won't ever have to worry about a battery bursting and ruining the cart. What do you suggest when your cart shell to pcb line etches into to silk screen or solder mask? Cleaning that cart shell to pcb line is years worth of gross spit residue lol.
Loving the videos! Really want to get into console modding and your videos are really easy to follow, hopefully one day i'll be modding and you won't be making a video about my modwork 🤣
This is honestly my favorite soldering channel starring a retired 70's porn star.
*extremely active porn star
He'd be underage back then
Yeah..if i had to guess from his videos, that his porn star career is still quite alive.. although UA-cam won't let him show the hard core inter-electronic erotica..
Christ, he's not that old.. 😂
zerohimself - Maybe RedTube link or Pr0nHub :P
Yes, its Voultar the sensual solderer.
Despite being relatively simple, this is somehow the only good video I could find on UA-cam on how to properly do this. Using the K tip and solder sucker really helped me.
Brilliant suggestion for a beginner's first project. Having even a small amount of soldering proficiency opens up world of possibilities. There are a lot of "broken" games and consoles out there that need little more than this type of basic soldering to get back up and running. I got my main Genesis for free because a solder joint on the power input jack was broken. Took me all of 3 minutes to repair!
If I may suggest another good beginner project: replacing the caps in retro console power supplies. I've opened up a fair amount of Genesis and SNES PSU's and seen leaky caps. Cheap, easy, and can make a difference!
This was going to be my first project as soon as I get my new soldering iron and replacement caps. It’s been about 12-16 years since I last soldered 👍
The original xbox has leaky caps too. I'd recommend trying to get a hold of one of those and trying that out as well! I'd love to see some love for the og xbox.
@@LordHondros oh geez, I forgot I heard about this a few years ago. Maybe I'll make my old garage sale NES and OG Xbox my first cap replacement projects.
Next Time on Voultar: Best Way to Hot-Glue Your Action Figures
*fights urge to search for hot glue figures...*
You mean Best Way to Hot-Glue Your Nipples.
Everywhere I go, Kenny I swear your stalking me!
New drinking game. Everyone takes a drink when Voultar says "Just... Like.... That..."
I ded.
World flat.
Fun.
Alcol kill ..not a game, man 😉
@@davidegalliussi1979 sorry for the delay, I've been on a bender since the video dropped. Nobody wins the Voultar drinking game
@@BJ-uncensored do not get lost
As one of those beginners aspiring to tame an iron like you do one day, I greatly appreciate your tips and tricks. I finally decided to start a channel repairing consoles to kick off my retro console collection, and content like yours is in part what got me excited about this hobby and eager to learn more. Look forward to learning more from you, Lord. Your humble subject and student, Borderline OCD.
I wish there was enough space in GB and GBA carts to implement a cell battery holder rather than the tabbed cell style, but you make it look easy as always
There is actually but it has to be a real low profile one for Cr1616.
Now we need part 2... for sega genesis/megadrive, Nintendo 64, sega 32x, gameboy advance, gameboy colour too
Goes without saying for those wanting to do this, back up the saves before replacing the batteries! Keep up the work, bud!
Voultar has the most modsexual way of asserting his masculinity
he was really showing that Power Supply the extent of his love
amazing work as usual, I find it really nice to give newer people with less soldering experience a good walk-through of proper practice. Welcome back Voultar
I love those CR2032 battery holders. They can really save your ass on nearly any project that requires a new CR2032.
Plus they look darn neat as replacements to the tabbed CR2032.
On a recent GameCube refurbishing I was just so pleased that the battery holder fit on the controller board.
Why are those better? You can change the battery without desoldering it later?
@@forbiddenland8555 yes
I was just planning on doing this to handful of my games and then you come along and make a video about it! Can't wait to strap on for this one!
That's a nice clean shell on that Zelda cart.
Suggestion: Could you always mention the temps you are using for each step? Great video thank you for these!
I would love to know this as well. I've asked in many places and never gotten a straight answer on what iron temp to use for this work
@@Mario00064 I think it really varies depending on the type of solder you're using. The usual temperature I work with is 350C / 660F. That works well for me for these heavy joints.
@@jamiecruickshank9697 Thank you very much. Would this also be true for general soldering? For example, installing a mod kit such as DCdigital, UltraHDMI, etc?
Mario00064 Pretty much, i would sometimes nudge it down a little if I am soldering very close to plastic connectors to about 300 but start at 350 and practice a little and you will close.
I usually go about 330-340C, but that's just me, since I mostly work on a lot of pre-NES stuff, with more fragile traces than post NES stuff. Anywhere around there, temp wise ought to be fine though. 👍
You're not just soldering, you are making some beautiful art.
This is super helpful, thanks. I can do some really basic soldering with pinball machines, like running a big wire to a lug on a coil, but working on PCBs is still way over my head. It is something I need to learn how to do though so I'll try swapping out batteries on some of my SNES games like you demonstrated here. They need new ones anyway!
Should do a video on how to replace a battery without losing the saves. It's easy but I'm sure you can give it a thousand steps I don't even think about anymore.
That duo of KSGER stations, again, thank you for the recommendation, is the best soldering station I've ever had, I use mine a lot and even did a couple of SNES and a PC motherboard recap using it, thank you, is the best money I've ever spent on a soldering gear.
I can't express enough how happy I am that my solder daddy is back
Do like seeing a cart get given a second chance at keeping its memories. Would love to see more stuff like this, or maybe repairs for common console faults.
In the years i have been soldering, i had never thought of cut down the legs before removing the component.
I feel so stupid now.
You Have beeen the Channel I have directed people to for years, you have taught me drag soldering.
I clicked to see if the solution was licking.. but ended up learning about soldering. I’m not disappointed. Well.. not completely.
The flush surface mount battery holders you recommend have changed the length of the negative pin by 60% since you did this video. They snap so easy now, even when I'm simply straightening out the pin. I feel the pins are a bit wider now too. They barely go into the hole (a good problem to be had for men in most cases). I have to "bore" the hole out with a snapped pin to ensure it passes through. After removing the battery I'm refilling the hole with solder, then vacuuming everything out with a Hakko FR-301 to ensure I get all the old solder out. I remove all the solder from both pads before proceeding. Just mentioning that to make sure you know I'm doing my due diligence.
When I do finally get one seated, I'm worried that the negative pin will snap at some point post-soldering because of the stress of bending the pin straight. It's very weak. Perhaps it would snap during the battery change process? They go in very tight (herp derp). I like the idea of these replaceable button cells, but I don't know if it's worth the possibility of loosing saves so I don't have to solder in traditional batteries once every twenty years. What do you think?
I got some of these and the negative side is indeed longer now. If you're careful, use a sturdy but thin tweezer and bend it close to where it meets the plastic, it won't snap off. To me the positive end seems more flimsy and on the verge of breaking-after soldering though some solder creeps up it which hopefully is enough reinforcement. Definitely don't try to bend either more than once or it will snap (had that happen once). Also, I thought the negative didn't fit at first either, but there was a hint of solder around the edge. One more shot with the solder sucker and it slid in easy in a second with gentle rocking. Then I trimmed the long piece off and reflowed that side. Fit in the case snug as hell, but it worked.
I also suggest anyone trying this to definitely use something like a K tip, so the solder melts instantly. Safer and easier.
Great video as always!
One thing that happened to me last time I replaced a Gameboy cartridge battery: I ordered some cheap tabbed batteries, and to my surprise, the top tab was soldered to the negative side of the batery. "No big deal" I thought, "I'll just flip it". Ends up the battery wasn't somehow powering the volatile memory, issue that I solved by isolating the positive side from the PCB with some tape (I assumed it was shorting).
Just something I'd want to share to someone who might run into the same issue.
I used some of the techniques in this video for replacing the capacitors on my PC Engines. The stock caps have bent leads when they were soldered in and the old solder is only meltable at higher temps without introducing rosin core lead solder that melts at lower temps. Using the heat and rock out technique, I managed to replace all 20 or so caps on each pc engine. The only thing I had to do extra was because one via that ripped out of the PC Engine and I had to patch the trace direct to the negative capacitor leg on the large cap on the right side. Other than that it was a much easier job than probably using a desoldering station.
I'm wetter than your solder joints right now uwu
Bless em.
So am I :D
Heh.
Those battery holders are great. I had to go double check my spare battery holders, to make sure they didn't have tabs like that. I'd be mortified if been installing them wrong all this time. Pleased to say they don't and I wasn't. Great guide as ever!
The Bob Ross of electronics. Except I can't imagine there being many happy accidents with desoldering batteries 😂
Really happy Voultar is back!
I would really appreciate if you could show your solder tip temps (°C/°F) in your beginners guide videos. I am still struggling to finde the right temps myself.
Stay safe!
Im just casually waiting for you to hit 1 million. To get the popularity you deserve. Cause ive been using all your videos as soldering tutorials and tutorials on mods i wanna do and can never afford on my retro consoles and computers
I started soldering the same way and even used the same battery holders in my games!
As always I love your vids. Please don't ever quit us again.
GUYS GUYS !!! HES REALLY BACK ! hooooooou
Something so simple yet incredibly engaging.
Thank you for this video. I have screwed up more than a couple things on my own and this is a great way to go back and actually learn what I should be doing.
tip top maintainance of your tools for optimum perfomance video next please, thanks for this video.
God I didn’t know how much I wanted to strap on until I wasn’t strapping on for some time. Glad you are back!
A well made 30 year old coin cell battery still comes out shiny, while my rechargeable 16 pack of triple a's from our dear friends in China corroded to shit in an hour lol
Sometime back in the mid 1980's is an undisclosed location "how much battery time should be in these games? How about 25-30 years? That should be more than enough, no one will be playing these games that long." It has been 35 years or so since Dragon Warrior came out and it is still saving on the original battery.
Am I the only one who imagined voultar as being in his mid 40s?
I bought a zelda cart from a flea market and it had mildew and mold inside of it. Seems it was blown more often than I was
7:01 ok that's where I went wrong with those holders. I ended up getting the ones with the bracket already attached because my dumb ass was trying to open the pins without a battery inserted, causing them to break apart. IDK why I didn't think to put the battery in during assembly. :(
A positive suprise to see you in Analog frontiers at My life in Gaming!
I love the beginner videos, i ordered the soldering station you recommend (hopefully ill crack it open and not find watch gears or smurfs), and I’m stoked to practice with batteries and eventually beyond.
Can confirm this is a great way to begin soldering. Thanks for the great tutorial Voultar! I will say be careful when bending the tabs on the battery slot trays. The soldering was easy but I killed 4 slot trays. 🤣
Hail Lord Voultar! So awesome you broke out that Gen 2 Sega Genesis. I just recapped mine with a kit from Console5. Can’t wait to see what you do to that bad boy and the T1000 love juices. 🦾
Thank you so much! This is very helpful! I'm a beginner at soldering so this was really easy to follow along and I will reference this when I replace the battery in my Pokemon games.
I like the newer method you're using, i did all my SNES games with your older tutorial and kinda wanna re-do them now!
Voltar survived Covid! Welcome back Master!
Notification squad from italy
Im a your follower, im try to learn the most from you by wathcing your video at slow Speed
And I just had to read it with Mario voice :D
So simple yet I learned some great tips. Thanks!
Nice video! We need more quality beginner videos on UA-cam.
Just what I needed to breathe life back into my Final Fantasy that decided it was time to go to that great battery save bin in the sky!
When I was first learning how to solder I changed a battery on a Super Nintendo game I didn’t have the right tools at the time, while I was desoldering it the battery got too hot and blew up in my eye!!! I thought I was blinded in my left eye but after an hour of washing my eye out The next day it was better but for months I had solder burns around my eye and it scabbed up it looked horrible!! So please have the right tools and wear safety glasses and have fun!!!! (Voultar you’re videos are the best out there!!)
This is the shit I come to this channel for. I love you madly Voultar.
Voultar is the Bob Ross of soldering
Did you just tease us with some triple bypass goodness?! Oh yeah...
A tiny tip, that some beginners might find useful. I got some tiny plastic "clamps" from the hardware store. A bit like clothes-pins, and very cheap... One of those is very useful to keep the battery in place, while soldering it on. :)
On one hand It's yet another sram battery replacement video... on the other it's Voultar so I'm legally obligated to watch.
Seriously Voultar should have a Master Class or something
Almost licking that soldering iron got me so moist. :P
Hey Voultar, thank you so much for this, it’s greatly appreciated! Any chance for a more intermediate video next? For example, explaining the different types of solder (you mentioned lead-free, 60/40, etc. - which to a beginner is over my head). I also wonder what temperatures you’re working with - I’m always concerned about going too hot to damage the cartridge PCB. (If there’s an older video covering this please let me know; I’ll admit I’ve only been around for a year or two!)
We miss You so much.....it's been 3 weeks :( Please come back ! My soldering station is cold and lonely...
Your narration is fantastic. Love your channel. Can't believe I didn't find it sooner. Better late than never. 😊
I'd love to hear a rant about using sand paper on contacts
I was really surprised at how quickly he got over that to be honest.
Ah I love these videos even though I don't do any maintenance myself.
Is there a way of replacing the battery without clearing the savefile without having a way to backup the saves? I could imagine hot-swapping it while having the game loaded and save it after the battery is replaced, but it seems a bit risky.
Reminds me of the part in Spaceballs where Dark Helmet is playing with his toys! Great video and always love the sensual voice.
welcome back.. ive been wondering where you have been.. great videos as always.
I've missed you, so I'm glad you're back.
Now I want some T-1000 juices...
Much needed. Please give more 101 vids!!
You had me at the Wrecking Crew music. *liked*
Nice tutorial man!! I ended up getting the same KSGER T12 soldering station on your recommendation and I've actually ended up using it a hell of a lot more than my Weller WES51. Just an awesome piece of hardware!! 😁.
I ain’t quite figured out your style but I know that when the suns out, the guns are out. 💪
"I'm just going to very slowly introduce my iron like so..."
Oh my, I'm aroused, yes please.
Those battery holders the thinnest ones you can get? I have a bunch from a different brand that I had to use my snippers to attack because they wouldn't fit into my n64 memory pak
These are SUPER low profile.
I had to dremel some edges back when trying to fit them in certain NES cartridges. They are low enough to fit all the ones I've done. I did have to install one on the back of a pcb once because a component was in the way.
Voultar where do you get them? Or what is the brand?
@@danielduzan7682 check the video. He shows, on screen, what brand and where
Voultar, could you please talk about wire gauges/sizes for specific aplications, like what size use for power, for video signals, and or batteries?, Mostly for the portabilizing projects? Hope you can help us here, thanks for the quality videos as always!
Lord "Sit back, strap on, and let's do it to it" Voultar
Great vid, love the tease at the end which I assume is for a Mega Amp mod - gonna be fixing the shoddy sound on the Genesis 2?
I want a soldering shack just like Voultar!
Voultar is Deadpool. Just better looking or he is using some high tech facial masking CGI.
Change my mind...without the knives, bombs, or really hot pokie things.
"They can explode just like love juices" DEAD HAHA Love your videos and commentary!
As a immature retard , you would.
This guy is basically the Bob Ross of soldering.
Absolutely loved the video! Very helpful! Ironically I have that same exact Zelda trucker style hat, but in yellow. Great looking hat!
I needed your expertise about a month ago, when I started to fix my own carts Voultar! I just use an eraser.
My soldering skills are lacking but I practiced on a Logitech mouse and figured it out. The only issue I am having now is VIA's getting them to clear, I also suggest adding a battery holder away from the PCB so you won't ever have to worry about a battery bursting and ruining the cart. What do you suggest when your cart shell to pcb line etches into to silk screen or solder mask? Cleaning that cart shell to pcb line is years worth of gross spit residue lol.
I need to see if I can use this method for the CMOS battery in my old PSP-1000
Holding up that Genny, oh man. Don’t tease me like that
Your amazing man I love watching all your videos! You are the more entertaining Bob Ross of the retro video game/repair/mod world!
Thank you Voultar, keep those t1000 juices flowing!
Woke up to the morning hotness!
Like how you've got the Batman music for the Zelda cart.
Loving the videos! Really want to get into console modding and your videos are really easy to follow, hopefully one day i'll be modding and you won't be making a video about my modwork 🤣
My favorite parts of these videos is when he hits the PCB with all that IPA.
If that was a factory battery you replaced, that must have been a friday afternoon cartridge. Looked a little rough
Love all your videos Voultar! I learned so much from you!
Really helpful mare, thank you.
Looking forward to more in this series 👍
More Sensual Soldering from Voultar!