2 things - with the CPU ribbon, push it down on the pads so you can get closer to the caps. and, FLUX. FLUX FLUX FLUX. These points are looking dryer than a sponge in the sun
There was still flux on the ribbon plus my wick has resin core which helped. I have done both my V2/V1 now without issues plus 5 Lites. Plus while sharing videos about how for this stuff was new so yes more flux could have helped but it flowed fine.
@@DNAMobileGaming i'm a micro-soldering expert. and i'm here cz someone come to my shop and send me this video link for reference. and my mate, this guy right here is right, you really need more flux to that pad. well, but just saying, you're not doing soldering for works, so i think it's fine. it still making a good connection, just some advice from some random solder-man. good job
@donatello4774 I really appreciate you being humble with your experience. Males it easier to listen honestly and I'll take this into account when I do mine
This is actually quite convenient. I've literally been searching for ways to hack my Switch Lite, and the fact that you're making these install guides at the same time is very nice. I appreciate this. Thank you!
I'm not sure if that's a shot at my beginner level soldering skills or if you're being genuine but it's true lol. I have now successfully hacked 7 Lites and a handful of regular Switches using my own techniques and they still (knock on wood) work to this day!
I mean, ANYBODY might be a stretch; it seems like one can do it provided they have some basic experience micro soldering, and that could definitely be self-taught, but it's probably not something that the faint of heart (and the faint of experience) should try
Awesome if you're on 18.1.0, then make sure to update everything including fusee/Atmosphere/Hakate I shared an SD Card setup guide but it's for 18.0.1 and everyone gets confused when it doesn't work for 18.1.0.
Awesome glad you got it going, as everyone seems to think I needed more flux for this guide when I think they're all just trolling for kicks. I now do this as a service periodically only local though and it really isn't too bad once you've done a bunch.
Nice install! The important thing is to never rush it. I did this a few months ago without a microscope and broke the capacitor/data lines for the wireless module when taking off the CPU plate on the left side (14:00). I'm liking that microscope so, I think it may be time to fix it!
Yeah that's why I got super quiet during certain parts lol. I ruined my first switch lite because I said "I can do this without a microscope" but nope now it's just parts. I guess you can get at least $60 for a screen though 😉.
If you got steady hands it IS possible to re-solder the two 100nF 0201 caps on the left side. I've just had to do this because I rushed the opening of the metal lid. No WiFi if those two suckers aren't feeling well.
Thank you. Just finished to modify my Switch Mariko)with PicoFly and your guide. It's the best instruction I found. I do not have a magnifier so I had to use my phone to check out the quality of soldering. The main problem was to solder capacitors. Possible the temperature is not correct or the flux from Ali is not good (NC-559).
Good flux, good solder wire with flux, and good eyes is the best for this. I am planning a video where I use my phones magnification to see the points of contact. Glad to hear this helps so many.
@@DNAMobileGamingGreat DIY video but you HAVE to re-apply Flux on every single step when you solder! It will just melt away ayway and since its "clean-free" flux, any of the flux that doesnt get wiped up wont cause any corrosion issues like regular non-electronics grade "clean-free" flux. The reason you had some slight "issues" soldering the caps onto the ribbon cable is because you never put new Flux on there and over everything. As for the phone method, I'm trying to do that right now actually. Have you found a good way to hold the phone without buying a special mount or stand? lol Great video! More flux next time and maybe think of at least putting flux on the Caps before laying down the Ribbon cable with the tape, and possibly even pre-tinning the Caps as well, ever so slightly. That way the bridge is almost instant so very very little heat is required for the main part at the end to solder the ribbon on to the Caps around the CPU.. If you are planning on doing this on a regular basis look into the TS-100/101 Soldering Iron. Once you use once you will never go back to any other soldering iron! Its also able to be powered by a 3s-6s Lipo/Lion battery pack if needed as well. I use it on my fpv drone flight controller soldering all the time and its not quite as small as this usually, it does come down to CPU leg soldering sometimes or trace soldiering, etc.. My next investment is going to be the Microscope camera like you have here and a Hot air soldering iron for other projects..
❤Love it❤#6 is in the books, count it so you connected the drain and gate to sp1 and sp2 (inside bigger solder points the gate and by inside i mean its closer to the rest of the caps in the center)then grounded the Mosfet below each point AFTERWARDS because you could always connect ground to shielding with wire if it didn't align . Is there a reason not to cover the solder points in Kevlon ? I can't think of why the tape would effect the thermal paste but maybe green mask would be more sensible since the caps will be coated . Just out of an abundance of caution . Dont want anything shorting .
Great tutorial, thank you! I really enjoyed it, especially how you explained everything so clearly. You have professional equipment, but using a cotton swab to apply the paste feels a bit unconventional :D.
Not a bad install, but keep practicing! I recommend some liquid flux to go along with your gel flux. You should be heating your pad/leg/etc. then gently feeding your solder into it. Always use flux - it will help your solder flow nice and easy to where you want it. You don’t only have to use it at the beginning - use it throughout as needed. You should have a nice, shiny connection when complete! 👍
I like the flux I have been using which gets squeezed out of a syringe I know it didn't look like it but I had a lot of flux on the board. The reason I did this the way I did is because I'm still sort of a noob at soldering but have now done a dozen consoles without any issues. My kids are the biggest testers of 4 of these switches too and they still work to this day knock on wood. I love the feedback though, this is the easiest Switch to mod.
Thanks for the tutorial man. Question for you maybe you would know. I already have a softmodded console wjth atmosphere right now and i bought a picofly because i want to hard mod it. Is it worth doing that? Will i have to redo my whole SD card and delete all my backup games on it or will it be just plug and play after the picofly install? Appreciate the tutorial!
I honestly don't know, however I know the old method used the same file structure but I owned a very old V1 and it was still on an old firmware until it finally crapped out on me so honestly l couldn't tell you.
You're the man. Other videos make it Way too complicated. I ordered everything including the microscope. Is the Noctua NT-H1 3.5g thermal paste enough to do two switches? Or should I order another tube?
I think you have the wrong link to the US affiliate digital microscope. I revived it yesterday. The base is way to small to fit the switch onto. I can not position it to do the Soldering. It's a different one when I click on the CA affiliate link. Do you have a US link to the one you used?
I just updated the link sorry, the base isn't that big either it's 10x10 inches. Also the tip that comes with the Soldering Iron will be okay I bought a new set recently that is different but I used the one on mine for a few years before needing a new one.
Man... I really wanna try doing this but I'm so afraid of messing up. It's been a long time since I've done any soldering. Great guide! Will definitely use it if I decide to give it a try!
If you take your time it really is a nice mod, you can even use your phone camera if it has a decent multi zoom option. My S20 can see these capacitors really well 20x zoom you just need a tripod of some sort.
I just tried my first attempt last night and, unfortunately, am not seeing the "No SD card screen." The Pico was flashed, however, when I plug it into the switch and try to start it up, it flashes blue then continuously flashes yellowish green then shuts off, but no life on the screen. If I plug everything as it was originally, it boots normal. So is there something wrong with the programming?
@DNAMobileGaming awesome, yeah I have the red/blue basic switch. I'm so hyped for this. I'm guess I can use my phones zoom feature for I mic other I'll squint reeeeeally hard.
Are they just being recognized on your computer? If so check the usb c connector I had one board that needed some tampering to get my computer to recognize it because the fpc connection plastic was broken.
Hi. The chip works for a short time. Now the LED is off and the Switch boots directly into the stock firmware. Can the points be measured? Visually, they look good.
You can test the continuity, but I've never done this. You must have a bad solder to one of the points, even in my recent video about he Switch Lite I had to go back in and resolder one of the pads which I knew right away was the reason why it was booting directly. I hope that helps.
So on the topic of backing up your games with this mod, i had my switch lite black out, repair shop said he coulnt find any shorts, new screen didnt work and the lite itself does still charge and battery/charge port were still good. So i lost probably over 1000 hours of pokemon and zelda data because they dont save to cloud. Is there a specific chip or something that all my data would he stored on that i could maybe put onto another switch/lite board so i dont lose all this data? I am now using a regular switch so if i have another blackout maybe the dock will still display to the TV but i would really love to get my data back, so many pokemon o hadnt put into home yet are on that device still lol
The emmc chip was most likely manufactured by HyJinx but there are some Samsungs and they are vendor specific it is located under the smaller of the 2 heat shields that had to be pried out at various pin holes . The lite uses BGA solder points located under the chip and therefore require flux, tweezers, and a heat gun to remove . Before going that route, I would like to know more about the mod chip you installed, is it still in the device ? Can you see it ? Is there an LED on it ? Is it blinking ? What color ? Listen closely as soon as you power the device on, is the mod chip beeping ? If so please describe the number of beeps and if they are short and/or long beeps (it's very important to correctly note these as they indicate specifically what connection has failed) Did you enable Auto-RCM in Hekate ? Did you use a mod chip with pre-built flex cables ? Were they for the Lite ? Transistors ? What Ohm and which manufacturer made your emmc chip ?
@matthewshafer9545 so I guess it was kind of vague, but I never added this mod to my switch. It just seemed like someone here would know how to help me with my issue based off of all the knowledge required to do this mod. I've read around a lot and apparently the data isn't exactly retrieveable at all unless you actually hack into it. A lot of it just seems beyond my comprehension at this point
@@bwilson0213 well a short circuit will not draw current of any kind and you have a charging battery . So we can rule that out . And you said black screen not blue so can assume the processors isn't simply failing . So I was thinking what if this is something really dumb like it can't find Payload.bin because it isn't where it should be
I soldered the points on and plugged everything in correctly. Instead of the pico chip flashing blue and taking me to the no sd screen, mine just blinks blue twice, turns yellow then the switch boots up like normal and takes me to the switch main menu. Has anyone else encountered this? Do I not have a solid weld on all 4 points?
I have a Switch with all broken pads for the screenconnector. The switch works without the screen and I can play origional games. I want this switch to become a console because the pads can't be fixed (multilayers broken), I did the picofly but as you know you can't do anything because it needs the (touch) screen, is there a way to just boot the switch with the picofly installed so I can use it as a modded console?
When you get into the Hakate Menu you can use the right joystick of the controllers as a mouse instead of using the Touch! I think they implemented this for cases like yours because I know a lot of gamers that actually just use (me included in the past) the Switch as a standalone console. I used to use my old V1 in this way it was literally a motherboard that I plugged the USB C into a HDMI to USB C adapter and basically used it just to backup my games. I hope that helps answer this.
@DNAMobileGaming yeah but I don't have a screen. I mean the pads on the board are broken/lifted. Hakate doesn't work on HDMI , so I can't see what I do. So my question is, is there a way around. I don't want to go online with that switch what so ever. Is there a file I can edit on my pc to just boot with the mod activated so I can play "backups" =P ?
@@GanseSindToll-kc2ot no use Kapton tape period electrical tape will also melt at high temps. I gave what you need to use don't skip this or use alternatives unless you want to break your switch.
@DNAMobileGaming yeah i found a strand of solder went across the top of SP2 and shorted the circuit. An expensive lesson for sure. I shouldn't of tried something new. RIP Switch Lite 2022 - 2024
Im having a blue light and yellow blinks and not having the No SD Card screen, got installed by a solder profession and have a video. I dont think the soldering was wrong, any idea what the problem is? I can show you the video if needed
Yes it does, there's a V1 cable and V2 cable that comes with the kit. I did my V2 last week finally the only difference is the SMB capacitor direction on the GPU.
@wilson16 it really does change things, the best part is using it to rip your games easier. I had the none patched V1 and the jig method sucked. This method you can switch back and forth from the CFW to original if needed easily.
@DNAMobileGaming yes,it is reading the sd card, game cartridges, even the digitizer works, as I can hear when I press on it. When I dock it it shows the main screen on the TV.
I messed up and I got the no SD screen but I couldn't get hekate to load and when I try to go into ofc firmware I get blue screen and then I said frig and removed the picofly chip and cleaned up the Area and unfortunately I still got BSOD I definitely messed up something
Did you follow the guide to setup Hakate? Did you try booting into stock by holding down volume +- then pressing power to boot stock properly? Probably shouldn't have removed the chip 😕 I have never removed mine so hopefully those capacitors are fine.
Yeah I wicked up everything but not sure what went wrong at all I was stoked cuz I had the no Sdcard show up and loaded the Sdcard to have nothing but errors LP0 missing wss first error then bootloader missing no payload I tried a few other sd cards and everything to the root
Hello I got the hwfly lite, but it show blue light and then purple when trying to flash then goes off, it doesn't show on my pc either any help will be appreciated
@@DNAMobileGaming hello, just to clarify I copied the fw_2.73.uf2(picofly I think from GitHub)to the mod chip and I got a yellow light, does that mean I have successfully flashed it?
Nice video, after the modchip install, my Switch is giving Error 2002-3540 when accessing the Stock firmware, emunand works properly. Do you have any idea how to fix this issue?
What was your firmware version of your switch before doing this? People keep getting this one which is 18.0.1 mixed up with 18.1.0 I also found a reddit post about this too. But if you know reddit there wasn't really a straight answer, I personally haven't experienced this myself but what they said is it's a failing emmc. Did you install this yourself? If so double check the connection of the emmc board as well make sure there isn't any pinout problems.
@@DNAMobileGaming I installed 3 Hwfly Picofly Chip RP2040 and 2 of them give me that error, firmware is 18.1.0. The error 2002-3540 comes up randomly on the 1st switch when using original firmware and on the 3rd switch it won’t even boot to original firmware just give me that error after the nintendo switch logo. I don’t think is the emmc board, more likely is the cheap modchip from AliExpress. If you get any info on this please let me know, thank you.
@GloomyPlanet well did you install the latest version of Atmosphere as this isn't for 18.1.0 and from others responses on good ol misinformation Reddit some also stated it's because of Atmosphere and not using the right firmware matching the new firmware.
Maybe it's the chip then I haven't experienced this with any of the chips I own as I switch back and forth to play online with both my Switch Lite and this Switch all the time.
I just did it. turned it on to see image no sd card. put all together and first boot nice no sd card. I pressed power bottom once and it turned off forever. :( soldering is perfect I see no flaw but it doesnt turn on anymore. help
Double check your soldering work and connections. You also only need to press the power not hold it, common issue some people make is they hold the power button. Also try this, hold down volume +-, then press and hold the power button until you see the Nintendo logo. When the logo appears release everything this will determine if you properly soldered everything and bring you back to the stock OS.
@@DNAMobileGaming trying thanks for the fast answer. nothing happened I'm thinking of uninstalling the chip then if it doesnt work then I guess something went very wrong.
@@andresf.garcia3926 I got a replacement of some capacitors I saw that came off the tegra chip in the console. the metal connection was also gone so the capacitor doesn't stick... I have the switch there but I don't know how to repair that. I can barely see it and don't have a microscope. So stuck there I cannot continue myself :(
Lol nothing says I can't share how to do it or ways to do it. I paid $400 for this risked breaking it to make it better, people have been messing with technology for years and they don't own me 😆 the moment they think they do will be the moment I boycott their company.
Mine can run hekate but cant access emmc and cant create an emmummc , I first connected back the nand chip to the main board again and it worked , then to the chip and it didn't but csn acces hekate , i put it again on the main board and its stuck on nintendo switch logo , any idea?
You shouldn't as everything runs off the micro sd card. If you can get into Hakate, restart the process again for this as it works perfectly even on 18.1.0
Hey guys, maybe someone can point me in the right direction: I modded my switch about 3 weeks ago, everything worked fine. Last night i put the switch on the charger and this morning the device showed flasing white bars for fractions of seconds. When i remove the sd card it shows the PicoFly "No SD" logo, but nothing else works. When i reboot with volume down it goes to blue screen. Anyone got a clue ?
Check your SD card, try setting up the SD card again or try another SD card. That sounds like file corruption, did you navigate back to stock firmware and update your Switch by chance?
@@DNAMobileGaming Thanks for your reply, i did nothing I'm aware off to be honest. I changed to another sd card but still no boot to atmosephere/hekate.
@CristianCortes-p3x the only file here is for the Pico board itself. The files for the SD card are different and there's a guide for that as well on the channel. I also shared that you can use my files linked in the guide, then update to the latest build of Atmosphere.
450 degrees is what I have mine cranked too which is the max, use lots of flux (as many keep saying even though I did) and turn on a fan if you're using the solder I shared. It won't kill you now but it's not good for the system long term.
If you installed it properly and it's charged then this shouldn't happen. Double check your solder points to the capacitors if they're bad then you may need to clean up the solder work.
I highly recommend it so do a lot of others so do what you'd like as any guide is always a suggestion but it won't be my fault if some shorts out or breaks.
@@oimel81 That's actually a very good idea. It almost looks like it's even intended based on how the flex PCB looks. And the end result likely looks a lot better.
Inserted my sd card and it doesn’t detect I reseted my switch and it also doesn’t detect the sd card do I need to put it specify to work or it’s broke ?
@@Papi4997 did it read it before you did the install? Did you check to make sure you seated the SD Card ribbon back into place correctly? Check all the possibilities.
I tried this and messed up the ribbon cable for a V2. Look melted in parts and solder wouldn't stick to copper. Luckily I have a V1 switch as well so I tinned it ok after watching your video and took a break. I'll install it tomorrow when I've calmed down a bit lol. Ordered another modchip so I can try my V2 if the V1 goes ok.
Dang I bought a 4 pack so I'd have backups but the big thing to remember is not to add too much heat to that cable. Just lightly tap the solder points using flux really helps too and don't play with it too much when soldering to eh capacitors. I took a breather after each capacitor myself I think the scary thing you have to think of is how small the parts are but with a good camera or microscope you can see everything.
@@DNAMobileGaming Very true. Not yet soldered to the main board yet. Still very nervous doing that. I might wait a week yet lol. I messaged a few places around me to ask if they would do it, just the soldering and not heard back so guess it's something I need to do myself.
@@DNAMobileGaming So turns out the screws for the back cover are all shredded on my V1. I'm sure I can get them out some how even if I break the back cover and just replace it. Not sure if I can get new screws though.
@@Steve_PH double check that your SD card is seated correctly, check the pin connection for your ribbon cable for the sd card slot not really sure why this would happen but my kids play on all of my hacked switch consoles and always let them die. They never have this issue.
This is just for safety. If you drop the switch, it will be more stable. Otherwise the small capacitors that got solderd wont be strong enough to hold the whole cables and stuff.
It's really not that hard if you pay attention and take your time however it's not for everyone. I have done dozens now and no issues months later. If you have the right equipment it really goes a long way.
No problem a phone with a good camera works well for zooming into the board too btw otherwise the microscope really helps a lot. I use it a lot now and even used it to mod my PSP screen recently.
@@shortboss2537 the installer is broken on 18.1.0 not sure why but it only works on 18.0.1 which is what the SD card setup guide I shared was for. You'll just have to open it with the .nro app.
Please, man, please let your audience know to be very careful with the metal pin opening the shield. I just tried doing this process like 30 minutes and ended up scraping the board and totalling the board. Worst feeling. Please try to show things better.
I can't either but I did honestly I've only soldered a ton of large components in the past and wires. This was fun to challenge myself, I've now done 2 main Switch consoles and 5 Lites 😂.
Just... eww Use flux people! Never half-ass clean.... anything And use flux! This process takes 10 minutes with proper used of flux and good cleaning.. even with terribly tremmors
@@DNAMobileGaming actually you didn't used any while soldering the ribbon to the GPU... the 2 caps. That's why you had such a hard time with the solder going where you wanted it.
@@SteveMoore71 I sure did there was flux all over it still I didn't add anymore because there was a huge amount if you look closely around 26:00 you can see the shine of the flux plus my solder has flux as well. I've now successfully hacked a dozen consoles however without any problems 3 of which my kids use and they still work great.
@@DNAMobileGaming Absolutely, there was residual. But not enough in the needed locations to assist the solder in flowing where you want it. Look at 24:36 as an example. Above SP1 is what (technically too much) solder looks like when it has good assist from flux. Above SP2 (again has to much) the solder is both 'stringy, and not even clinging to the pad above the S.. lower tiny bit of the pad is exposed still, and again, that 'stringy' solder above the 2. Will this work? Sure, potentially. Im willing to bet that the left-most pad of SP1 isn't even attached. Its just friction that's maintaining the minimal current needed. At 37:11 you can kinda see what appears to be a crack, or line, between the 2 parts. Could just be lighting. At 35:37 there is a distinct split as well, but you re-heated after that. So some problems you are having... 1... dirty work environment. You really need to get all of that old thermal past out of there! Its doing absolutely zero good in transferring heat and making it terribly hard for the solder to properly adhere. Thermal past is almost all silicon based, and even extremely good flux will struggle eating it all. Remove all you can with a spudger or dry swab. Then scrub with a clean toothbrush and 90% Isopropyl. 70%, as you can see in your video, leaves droplets in the poorly cleaned chip 2 ... Wipe away wet alcohol wit ha lint-free tool. You can see all over the place where threads from your cotton swabs are left behind. They contaminate the solder, stick in uncleaned thermal paste (creating absolutely HUGE gaps between the chip and the heatpipe!) Anddo nothing positive for you. 3 ... Set your temp iron temp WAY cooler! Youre temp should be only a little hotter than the melting point of your chosen solder. And the tip you use should be based on how muce of that heat has to be transferred into the part. In this project... a copper dot on a ribbon cable and a tiny SMD. You cald almost use a needle point and succeed; 4 ... Apply new flux to every new connection, and as soon as you see that its burned. But clean away the old before applying new. This rids the area of contaminents. In several places around where you referenced above you can see how burned that flux it that you're mentioning. This is because its contaminated from being used too long, and at WAY to high a heat. Look at the soldering tip at 28:48. Its not tinned and its baked to hell and back. Shortly after you clean it, fail to use flux, and add a blob of solder. That solder is going to jump off as soon as it has a place to go. It should flow on the tip just as smoothly and even as a perfectly soldered join on a $1200 motherboard. And absolutely most of all... Im not trying to be a dick! Just trying to help. Soldering can be a PITA! But it seems that most people do really well after they get over this imaginary hump in the middle of the learning curve. Just trying to help ya get there
Pardon? My Soldering job worked out perfectly the Switch still works and get used daily to this day. This was video showing those that are NEW to Soldering what to do but if you feel better about yourself now for bashing me in the comments for no reason at all, then hit that subscribe button and move on with your life 😀
Thanks appreciate it 🙏 ☺️ 🙌 👍 sorry you should see how good my Soldering skills are now as I've soldered multiple Switches and some are used by kids that don't take care of things as well as adults and they still work fine.
Sweet I've done only 7 myself and can do the V1/2 in about 20 minutes as well the reason this is slower is because it's filmed for teaching how it can be done.
It's like the 3rd video I'm watching, and I'm getting more and more confident on doing it
2 things - with the CPU ribbon, push it down on the pads so you can get closer to the caps. and, FLUX. FLUX FLUX FLUX. These points are looking dryer than a sponge in the sun
There was still flux on the ribbon plus my wick has resin core which helped. I have done both my V2/V1 now without issues plus 5 Lites. Plus while sharing videos about how for this stuff was new so yes more flux could have helped but it flowed fine.
Whats the temp for soldering iron required??
@@biswashrai554 300-320 C
@@DNAMobileGaming i'm a micro-soldering expert. and i'm here cz someone come to my shop and send me this video link for reference. and my mate, this guy right here is right, you really need more flux to that pad. well, but just saying, you're not doing soldering for works, so i think it's fine. it still making a good connection, just some advice from some random solder-man. good job
@donatello4774 I really appreciate you being humble with your experience. Males it easier to listen honestly and I'll take this into account when I do mine
This is actually quite convenient. I've literally been searching for ways to hack my Switch Lite, and the fact that you're making these install guides at the same time is very nice. I appreciate this. Thank you!
This video truly demonstrates anybody can do this and not mess up their Switch.
I'm not sure if that's a shot at my beginner level soldering skills or if you're being genuine but it's true lol. I have now successfully hacked 7 Lites and a handful of regular Switches using my own techniques and they still (knock on wood) work to this day!
I mean, ANYBODY might be a stretch; it seems like one can do it provided they have some basic experience micro soldering, and that could definitely be self-taught, but it's probably not something that the faint of heart (and the faint of experience) should try
Finally got brave and did this, had to resolder twice, but it works! Now on to setting up the actual emu...
Awesome if you're on 18.1.0, then make sure to update everything including fusee/Atmosphere/Hakate I shared an SD Card setup guide but it's for 18.0.1 and everyone gets confused when it doesn't work for 18.1.0.
I did my V2. It works perfectly. Thanks for putting this video together.
Awesome glad you got it going, as everyone seems to think I needed more flux for this guide when I think they're all just trolling for kicks. I now do this as a service periodically only local though and it really isn't too bad once you've done a bunch.
Nice install! The important thing is to never rush it. I did this a few months ago without a microscope and broke the capacitor/data lines for the wireless module when taking off the CPU plate on the left side (14:00). I'm liking that microscope so, I think it may be time to fix it!
Yeah that's why I got super quiet during certain parts lol. I ruined my first switch lite because I said "I can do this without a microscope" but nope now it's just parts. I guess you can get at least $60 for a screen though 😉.
I'm sure I can do this without a scope I will just squint really hard 😅
@HxCxDxE I say good luck just don't mess up those capacitors or your switch is toast.
If you got steady hands it IS possible to re-solder the two 100nF 0201 caps on the left side. I've just had to do this because I rushed the opening of the metal lid. No WiFi if those two suckers aren't feeling well.
@@stefangun80 Lets be real though, if you are doing this mod you aint going to be taking this switch online so why need wifi?
One more question. Did you use the tip that came with the soldering iron? Or s different one? It's on my list to complete this weekend.
Thank you. Just finished to modify my Switch Mariko)with PicoFly and your guide. It's the best instruction I found. I do not have a magnifier so I had to use my phone to check out the quality of soldering. The main problem was to solder capacitors. Possible the temperature is not correct or the flux from Ali is not good (NC-559).
Good flux, good solder wire with flux, and good eyes is the best for this. I am planning a video where I use my phones magnification to see the points of contact. Glad to hear this helps so many.
@@DNAMobileGamingGreat DIY video but you HAVE to re-apply Flux on every single step when you solder! It will just melt away ayway and since its "clean-free" flux, any of the flux that doesnt get wiped up wont cause any corrosion issues like regular non-electronics grade "clean-free" flux. The reason you had some slight "issues" soldering the caps onto the ribbon cable is because you never put new Flux on there and over everything.
As for the phone method, I'm trying to do that right now actually. Have you found a good way to hold the phone without buying a special mount or stand? lol
Great video! More flux next time and maybe think of at least putting flux on the Caps before laying down the Ribbon cable with the tape, and possibly even pre-tinning the Caps as well, ever so slightly. That way the bridge is almost instant so very very little heat is required for the main part at the end to solder the ribbon on to the Caps around the CPU..
If you are planning on doing this on a regular basis look into the TS-100/101 Soldering Iron. Once you use once you will never go back to any other soldering iron! Its also able to be powered by a 3s-6s Lipo/Lion battery pack if needed as well. I use it on my fpv drone flight controller soldering all the time and its not quite as small as this usually, it does come down to CPU leg soldering sometimes or trace soldiering, etc..
My next investment is going to be the Microscope camera like you have here and a Hot air soldering iron for other projects..
❤Love it❤#6 is in the books, count it so you connected the drain and gate to sp1 and sp2 (inside bigger solder points the gate and by inside i mean its closer to the rest of the caps in the center)then grounded the Mosfet below each point AFTERWARDS because you could always connect ground to shielding with wire if it didn't align . Is there a reason not to cover the solder points in Kevlon ? I can't think of why the tape would effect the thermal paste but maybe green mask would be more sensible since the caps will be coated . Just out of an abundance of caution . Dont want anything shorting .
Great tutorial, thank you! I really enjoyed it, especially how you explained everything so clearly. You have professional equipment, but using a cotton swab to apply the paste feels a bit unconventional :D.
Not a bad install, but keep practicing! I recommend some liquid flux to go along with your gel flux. You should be heating your pad/leg/etc. then gently feeding your solder into it. Always use flux - it will help your solder flow nice and easy to where you want it. You don’t only have to use it at the beginning - use it throughout as needed. You should have a nice, shiny connection when complete! 👍
I like the flux I have been using which gets squeezed out of a syringe I know it didn't look like it but I had a lot of flux on the board. The reason I did this the way I did is because I'm still sort of a noob at soldering but have now done a dozen consoles without any issues. My kids are the biggest testers of 4 of these switches too and they still work to this day knock on wood. I love the feedback though, this is the easiest Switch to mod.
Great video. By any chance, you install it in the oled NS. I haven't found a video such as yours where I can follow along
Nice, very entertaining
Well done, very clean. Thanks for sharing.
Very well done, part two was recorded yesterday so I could use the family Switch again 😎
I just soldered mine and plugged in the mod chip to test it and it wont power on at all. Is the switch damaged or is there soemthing else to try?
Took it back to stock and it boots back on
Thanks for the tutorial man. Question for you maybe you would know. I already have a softmodded console wjth atmosphere right now and i bought a picofly because i want to hard mod it. Is it worth doing that? Will i have to redo my whole SD card and delete all my backup games on it or will it be just plug and play after the picofly install? Appreciate the tutorial!
I honestly don't know, however I know the old method used the same file structure but I owned a very old V1 and it was still on an old firmware until it finally crapped out on me so honestly l couldn't tell you.
You're the man. Other videos make it Way too complicated. I ordered everything including the microscope. Is the Noctua NT-H1 3.5g thermal paste enough to do two switches? Or should I order another tube?
That is more than enough you don't need a lot just splat a pea sized amount on the gpu and about half that on the plate after.
I got a question for soldering im a beginner, how do i prevent solder sticking to the iron tip
Clean your tip, use a good iron, and tip tinner.
@ alright thank you
Where should I buy the modchip? Aliexpress? That seems too cheap to work.
Yes find it on AliExpress.
thats where you get it tho, check reviews before purchase
lolk for picofly when buying there
Wish you would have uploaded part 2 by now. Your real time tutorial is really easy to follow
I do have part 2 uploaded I don't know what you mean? The SD Card setup guide is on the channel if that's what you're looking for?
@@DNAMobileGaming Thanks!
Thanks for the great Video. Where you buy the microscope?
No problem, I put the Microscope in the description along with many other tools I use a lot :D
I think you have the wrong link to the US affiliate digital microscope. I revived it yesterday. The base is way to small to fit the switch onto. I can not position it to do the Soldering. It's a different one when I click on the CA affiliate link. Do you have a US link to the one you used?
I just updated the link sorry, the base isn't that big either it's 10x10 inches. Also the tip that comes with the Soldering Iron will be okay I bought a new set recently that is different but I used the one on mine for a few years before needing a new one.
@@DNAMobileGaming awesome. Thanks. I ordered the correct one. The old link has a 5x3 base.
Man... I really wanna try doing this but I'm so afraid of messing up. It's been a long time since I've done any soldering. Great guide! Will definitely use it if I decide to give it a try!
If you take your time it really is a nice mod, you can even use your phone camera if it has a decent multi zoom option. My S20 can see these capacitors really well 20x zoom you just need a tripod of some sort.
We have a live one, surgery surgery surgery, STAT!
Ha 😆 idk if I could be a surgeon 😷
Do you have a video on setting up the firmware and mods?
Yes there's a video about this
@DNAMobileGaming just found it in the description! Woops, my bad 🤣
@gaetongrasso9866 I actually just added it because I forgot to do that 😆
@DNAMobileGaming lol thank you!
If you bridge your points between the ribbon and switch does it automatically die? Or does that only happen once the switch is turned on
If your battery isn't connected then it won't do anything however make sure it's not bridged before connecting the battery and turning on.
Btw. how much W/°F/°C did you use while soldering?
450 degrees which is the max temp on my soldering iron.
Will this work if I use electrical tape instead of kapton tape? I don't have any kapton tape right now
Use kapton tape or you won't have a Switch either.
Ok thanks
do the version of the switch matter? like updating firmware and stuff
Are you using a 63/37 lead for this project?
I put the items in the description that I used if interested :D
I just tried my first attempt last night and, unfortunately, am not seeing the "No SD card screen." The Pico was flashed, however, when I plug it into the switch and try to start it up, it flashes blue then continuously flashes yellowish green then shuts off, but no life on the screen. If I plug everything as it was originally, it boots normal. So is there something wrong with the programming?
Check your Soldering on those capacitors make sure they're not bridged.
Hello, what are the tools and where to find them that are needed to install a chip on a Switch v1 and Oled? Thanks for the video
Description of the video has everything you need, for the chip itself you need to search it on AliExpress.
@@DNAMobileGaming Sorry I hadn't seen
Hands of a surgeon
What do you need worked on next? 🤣 Someone else said this too maybe I should change my profession lol
please make a video about what to do after the modchip is inside idk how to install atmosphere and hekate
Video is already done just need to upload it 😎
@@DNAMobileGamingthanks bro❤ im installing the chip literally right now
If I have a newer non lite switch will this still work? I checked ismyswitchpatche but it doesn't show the four letter serial for mine.
This isn't a Switch Lite if you mean an OLED though than no otherwise this works on tbe v1/v2 regardless of being patched or not.
@DNAMobileGaming awesome, yeah I have the red/blue basic switch. I'm so hyped for this. I'm guess I can use my phones zoom feature for I mic other I'll squint reeeeeally hard.
ive got a couple modchips that refuse to flash the uf2 file.. ive done a bunch of switchs but these two wont flash, any ideas?
Are they just being recognized on your computer? If so check the usb c connector I had one board that needed some tampering to get my computer to recognize it because the fpc connection plastic was broken.
@@DNAMobileGaming yes they are recognized, I see the files that it defaults with the I copy over the uf2. But no light at all
Hi. The chip works for a short time. Now the LED is off and the Switch boots directly into the stock firmware. Can the points be measured? Visually, they look good.
You can test the continuity, but I've never done this. You must have a bad solder to one of the points, even in my recent video about he Switch Lite I had to go back in and resolder one of the pads which I knew right away was the reason why it was booting directly. I hope that helps.
So on the topic of backing up your games with this mod, i had my switch lite black out, repair shop said he coulnt find any shorts, new screen didnt work and the lite itself does still charge and battery/charge port were still good. So i lost probably over 1000 hours of pokemon and zelda data because they dont save to cloud. Is there a specific chip or something that all my data would he stored on that i could maybe put onto another switch/lite board so i dont lose all this data? I am now using a regular switch so if i have another blackout maybe the dock will still display to the TV but i would really love to get my data back, so many pokemon o hadnt put into home yet are on that device still lol
The emmc chip was most likely manufactured by HyJinx but there are some Samsungs and they are vendor specific it is located under the smaller of the 2 heat shields that had to be pried out at various pin holes . The lite uses BGA solder points located under the chip and therefore require flux, tweezers, and a heat gun to remove . Before going that route, I would like to know more about the mod chip you installed, is it still in the device ? Can you see it ? Is there an LED on it ? Is it blinking ? What color ? Listen closely as soon as you power the device on, is the mod chip beeping ? If so please describe the number of beeps and if they are short and/or long beeps (it's very important to correctly note these as they indicate specifically what connection has failed) Did you enable Auto-RCM in Hekate ? Did you use a mod chip with pre-built flex cables ? Were they for the Lite ? Transistors ? What Ohm and which manufacturer made your emmc chip ?
@matthewshafer9545 so I guess it was kind of vague, but I never added this mod to my switch. It just seemed like someone here would know how to help me with my issue based off of all the knowledge required to do this mod. I've read around a lot and apparently the data isn't exactly retrieveable at all unless you actually hack into it. A lot of it just seems beyond my comprehension at this point
@@bwilson0213 well a short circuit will not draw current of any kind and you have a charging battery . So we can rule that out . And you said black screen not blue so can assume the processors isn't simply failing . So I was thinking what if this is something really dumb like it can't find Payload.bin because it isn't where it should be
Nice guide 🎉
Thanks did you watch all of it 😉
I soldered the points on and plugged everything in correctly. Instead of the pico chip flashing blue and taking me to the no sd screen, mine just blinks blue twice, turns yellow then the switch boots up like normal and takes me to the switch main menu. Has anyone else encountered this? Do I not have a solid weld on all 4 points?
That means the solder isn't getting a proper connection. Just go back in and recheck the points to the capacitors.
😲 my face everytime you pull out that flux 😂
I want my scissors back, you thief!
Lol no!
I have a Switch with all broken pads for the screenconnector. The switch works without the screen and I can play origional games. I want this switch to become a console because the pads can't be fixed (multilayers broken), I did the picofly but as you know you can't do anything because it needs the (touch) screen, is there a way to just boot the switch with the picofly installed so I can use it as a modded console?
When you get into the Hakate Menu you can use the right joystick of the controllers as a mouse instead of using the Touch! I think they implemented this for cases like yours because I know a lot of gamers that actually just use (me included in the past) the Switch as a standalone console. I used to use my old V1 in this way it was literally a motherboard that I plugged the USB C into a HDMI to USB C adapter and basically used it just to backup my games. I hope that helps answer this.
@DNAMobileGaming yeah but I don't have a screen. I mean the pads on the board are broken/lifted. Hakate doesn't work on HDMI , so I can't see what I do. So my question is, is there a way around. I don't want to go online with that switch what so ever. Is there a file I can edit on my pc to just boot with the mod activated so I can play "backups" =P ?
@@DNAMobileGaming I need payload.bin that boots the switch hacked firmware that I can prepare on my pc or something
Does normal tape work too?
(Like can you replace it with the kapton tape?)
No don't use normal tape use Kapton tape it's heat resistant normal tape will melt and cause issues
And what about electric tape?
@@GanseSindToll-kc2ot no use Kapton tape period electrical tape will also melt at high temps. I gave what you need to use don't skip this or use alternatives unless you want to break your switch.
the Pico Fly Mod Chip 2040 flashes blue then green but shows nothing on the display at all, Just backlight.
Know what's going on?
Sounds like you soldered something wrong re check it again. Can you get back into the normal Switch OS?
@DNAMobileGaming yeah i found a strand of solder went across the top of SP2 and shorted the circuit. An expensive lesson for sure. I shouldn't of tried something new. RIP Switch Lite 2022 - 2024
Im having a blue light and yellow blinks and not having the No SD Card screen, got installed by a solder profession and have a video. I dont think the soldering was wrong, any idea what the problem is? I can show you the video if needed
Great now you need to setup the SD card.
@DNAMobileGaming i dont have the no sc card screen though
The firmware was likely not pre installed on the chip.
@@asquared_ if you're talking about the files inside, it was there
This work for all switch versions?. or is the switch version required to be a specific one?
Did you know if you actually watch the content you'll find out the answer because I mention this within the first minute of the video!
Just to clarify,
Does this work on a latest official firmware Switch v2 model?
Yes it does, there's a V1 cable and V2 cable that comes with the kit. I did my V2 last week finally the only difference is the SMB capacitor direction on the GPU.
@@DNAMobileGaming awesome good to hear, may do this with my switch much later down the line. I have Yuzu on my phone that can suffice for now. :)
@wilson16 it really does change things, the best part is using it to rip your games easier. I had the none patched V1 and the jig method sucked. This method you can switch back and forth from the CFW to original if needed easily.
Can this be done without a working screen? If I dock it will it show anything on the tv?
Not sure, never tried however does your Switch work without the screen working normally?
@DNAMobileGaming yes,it is reading the sd card, game cartridges, even the digitizer works, as I can hear when I press on it. When I dock it it shows the main screen on the TV.
Mine blinks blue and then green but doesn't say no sd card. It goes right to the switch screen. My switch is on firmware 19.0.0. is that normal?
One side wasn't touching. Finally says no sd card. Took me two mod chips and over 15 hrs between 3 days but it's connected
Glad you got it working.
I messed up and I got the no SD screen but I couldn't get hekate to load and when I try to go into ofc firmware I get blue screen and then I said frig and removed the picofly chip and cleaned up the Area and unfortunately I still got BSOD I definitely messed up something
Did you follow the guide to setup Hakate? Did you try booting into stock by holding down volume +- then pressing power to boot stock properly? Probably shouldn't have removed the chip 😕 I have never removed mine so hopefully those capacitors are fine.
@@DNAMobileGaming yeah I did that one first with booting by trying to boot holding volume buttons and only getting blue screen.
Yeah I wicked up everything but not sure what went wrong at all I was stoked cuz I had the no Sdcard show up and loaded the Sdcard to have nothing but errors LP0 missing wss first error then bootloader missing no payload I tried a few other sd cards and everything to the root
Hello I got the hwfly lite, but it show blue light and then purple when trying to flash then goes off, it doesn't show on my pc either any help will be appreciated
Did you flash the pico firmware?
@@DNAMobileGaming nope, I was facing issues for the chip to work on my pc. But it finally worked, but I don't know what to do next
@@DNAMobileGaming hello, just to clarify I copied the fw_2.73.uf2(picofly I think from GitHub)to the mod chip and I got a yellow light, does that mean I have successfully flashed it?
@Veryrarebois there's a guide for this
@@DNAMobileGaming do you have any?
Nice video, after the modchip install, my Switch is giving Error 2002-3540 when accessing the Stock firmware, emunand works properly. Do you have any idea how to fix this issue?
What was your firmware version of your switch before doing this? People keep getting this one which is 18.0.1 mixed up with 18.1.0 I also found a reddit post about this too. But if you know reddit there wasn't really a straight answer, I personally haven't experienced this myself but what they said is it's a failing emmc. Did you install this yourself? If so double check the connection of the emmc board as well make sure there isn't any pinout problems.
@@DNAMobileGaming I installed 3 Hwfly Picofly Chip RP2040 and 2 of them give me that error, firmware is 18.1.0. The error 2002-3540 comes up randomly on the 1st switch when using original firmware and on the 3rd switch it won’t even boot to original firmware just give me that error after the nintendo switch logo. I don’t think is the emmc board, more likely is the cheap modchip from AliExpress. If you get any info on this please let me know, thank you.
@GloomyPlanet well did you install the latest version of Atmosphere as this isn't for 18.1.0 and from others responses on good ol misinformation Reddit some also stated it's because of Atmosphere and not using the right firmware matching the new firmware.
@@DNAMobileGaming Yes i have atmosphere 1.7.1 and firmware 18.1.0 on both the stock and the emunand.
Maybe it's the chip then I haven't experienced this with any of the chips I own as I switch back and forth to play online with both my Switch Lite and this Switch all the time.
I just did it. turned it on to see image no sd card. put all together and first boot nice no sd card. I pressed power bottom once and it turned off forever. :( soldering is perfect I see no flaw but it doesnt turn on anymore. help
Double check your soldering work and connections. You also only need to press the power not hold it, common issue some people make is they hold the power button. Also try this, hold down volume +-, then press and hold the power button until you see the Nintendo logo. When the logo appears release everything this will determine if you properly soldered everything and bring you back to the stock OS.
@@DNAMobileGaming trying thanks for the fast answer. nothing happened I'm thinking of uninstalling the chip then if it doesnt work then I guess something went very wrong.
@@lYarmontl Could you fix the problem?
@@andresf.garcia3926 I got a replacement of some capacitors I saw that came off the tegra chip in the console. the metal connection was also gone so the capacitor doesn't stick... I have the switch there but I don't know how to repair that. I can barely see it and don't have a microscope. So stuck there I cannot continue myself :(
Man, just started watching your channel and you go and get put on the Memtendo Mafia hit list by legally modifying your personal property.
Lol nothing says I can't share how to do it or ways to do it. I paid $400 for this risked breaking it to make it better, people have been messing with technology for years and they don't own me 😆 the moment they think they do will be the moment I boycott their company.
Mine can run hekate but cant access emmc and cant create an emmummc , I first connected back the nand chip to the main board again and it worked , then to the chip and it didn't but csn acces hekate , i put it again on the main board and its stuck on nintendo switch logo , any idea?
Did you follow the setup guide I shared?
@@DNAMobileGamingyep I did everything , the chip Is flashed but i just cant acess stock ofw
I can do backup , but cant create an emmumc
@@DNAMobileGaming Do I need to Buy another emmc?
You shouldn't as everything runs off the micro sd card. If you can get into Hakate, restart the process again for this as it works perfectly even on 18.1.0
Hey guys, maybe someone can point me in the right direction: I modded my switch about 3 weeks ago, everything worked fine. Last night i put the switch on the charger and this morning the device showed flasing white bars for fractions of seconds. When i remove the sd card it shows the PicoFly "No SD" logo, but nothing else works. When i reboot with volume down it goes to blue screen. Anyone got a clue ?
Check your SD card, try setting up the SD card again or try another SD card. That sounds like file corruption, did you navigate back to stock firmware and update your Switch by chance?
@@DNAMobileGaming Thanks for your reply, i did nothing I'm aware off to be honest. I changed to another sd card but still no boot to atmosephere/hekate.
Can we use normal tape.. I don't have capton tape
Kapton is preferred because it's easy to take off and heat resistant. Normal tape would melt.
Are files the same for the 19.0 firmware?
@CristianCortes-p3x the only file here is for the Pico board itself. The files for the SD card are different and there's a guide for that as well on the channel. I also shared that you can use my files linked in the guide, then update to the latest build of Atmosphere.
Which temperature do i set my iron?
450 degrees is what I have mine cranked too which is the max, use lots of flux (as many keep saying even though I did) and turn on a fan if you're using the solder I shared. It won't kill you now but it's not good for the system long term.
Where was this a couple weeks ago when I modded an OLED
Ha this is only for the V1/V2 though I would love to try my hand at an OLED to challenge myself but they're so expensive still to risk breaking it 😜
How do you know if you should use the v1 or v2?
You can look up your serial number, however the ribbon cable for the v1 won't align with the v2 capacitors they're flipped sideways.
Do you know what to do if my switch doesn't boot up into the pico fly screen?
If you installed it properly and it's charged then this shouldn't happen. Double check your solder points to the capacitors if they're bad then you may need to clean up the solder work.
@@DNAMobileGaming cheers. thanks for the quick reply!
I'll try to redo the solder tomorrow as it's late rn. It's darn hard to see!
@guardianhoot no problem, does the pico board flash blue at all when you press the power button?
@@DNAMobileGaming yes. But it's given me the same error code now that I have redone the soldering. ==*
So it still boots up but gives an error code? Did you flash the board?
Hell no i'm just gonna bring this to a workshop
It's not that bad if you have experience, but if you're just looking for a one and done then if you can find a shop do that instead.
Heyy.. Incase the installation failed.. Will it still show the picofly logo?.. Cause mine flash blue light then white then blue then it boot
If it's showing the No SD Card it means it worked just copy the files for hakate/Atmosphere to the SD card and plug it in.
Definitely needed more flux to flow better and easier flux woukd have made it like a sponge to the to points.
Even i dont have switch i still watch this till the end.,hahaha
Eh every view counts and watch time 😜
Damn 12days old video and the link is already down.Anybody got another link for the chip?
Are you talking about the Ali Express link?
Cutting the shielding is optional, I didn't do it and the bulge is barely noticeable
I highly recommend it so do a lot of others so do what you'd like as any guide is always a suggestion but it won't be my fault if some shorts out or breaks.
@@DNAMobileGaming I did not cut the shielding. You can feed the Chip trough the fan hole and mount it outside of the shielding..
@@oimel81 That's actually a very good idea. It almost looks like it's even intended based on how the flex PCB looks. And the end result likely looks a lot better.
At least the toothbrush didn't fall in the toilet. 20:44
Lol that would be awesome I use the same toothbrush for brushing my teeth so extra flavor for everyone 😆
Merci pour ce guide qui m'as bien aider👍
So no need to drill the motherboard or even to cut a peace of metal near to the apu... Yeah i think I'll try thank to this video :)
My picofly chip flashed blue than green any help?
Awesome that is a good thing if you soldered the connections properly.
Inserted my sd card and it doesn’t detect I reseted my switch and it also doesn’t detect the sd card do I need to put it specify to work or it’s broke ?
@Papi4997 well did you turn on the Switch first and see the No SD Card menu?
@@DNAMobileGaming yes and when I inserted my sd card with the file in your other video it won’t read my sd card
@@Papi4997 did it read it before you did the install? Did you check to make sure you seated the SD Card ribbon back into place correctly? Check all the possibilities.
Can i send my switch to somebody and pay them to put the mod chip in for me?
I'm sure you could find someone to do this, I only offer this service locally or in Canada right now because shipping.
I have version 18.1.0 . Does it works?
Just copy the files I provided then update them with the latest version of atmosphere by following the written steps on GitHub.
What do when it does the No SD error
Watch the next guide about setting up your SD Card
Does this chip work with v1 unpatched switch as well as OLED switch?
V1/V2 only there's a separate chip for the OLED and Switch Lite.
Does this work for oled?
There is a board for the OLED I don't plan to test though unless I can find one cheap. So no this mod is completely different.
I tried this and messed up the ribbon cable for a V2. Look melted in parts and solder wouldn't stick to copper. Luckily I have a V1 switch as well so I tinned it ok after watching your video and took a break. I'll install it tomorrow when I've calmed down a bit lol. Ordered another modchip so I can try my V2 if the V1 goes ok.
Dang I bought a 4 pack so I'd have backups but the big thing to remember is not to add too much heat to that cable. Just lightly tap the solder points using flux really helps too and don't play with it too much when soldering to eh capacitors. I took a breather after each capacitor myself I think the scary thing you have to think of is how small the parts are but with a good camera or microscope you can see everything.
@@DNAMobileGaming Very true. Not yet soldered to the main board yet. Still very nervous doing that. I might wait a week yet lol. I messaged a few places around me to ask if they would do it, just the soldering and not heard back so guess it's something I need to do myself.
@@DNAMobileGaming So turns out the screws for the back cover are all shredded on my V1. I'm sure I can get them out some how even if I break the back cover and just replace it. Not sure if I can get new screws though.
Where do I get the flux?
Amazon is good for this.
I just added links to the description I must've forgot this.
You’re awesome thank you!!
What to do next mine is stuck on the same no SD card fuckkk
It's not stuck you just haven't setup your SD Card which there's a guide for this too.
No it was alright and working and last night whent to 0% so I charge it and became the no SD card screen @@DNAMobileGaming
@@Steve_PH double check that your SD card is seated correctly, check the pin connection for your ribbon cable for the sd card slot not really sure why this would happen but my kids play on all of my hacked switch consoles and always let them die. They never have this issue.
the link for the mod chip is invalid:(
Probably just search it
감사합니다 영상을 보고 picofly 연결에 성공했습니다
Perfect glad you were able to do so!
All yt "modders" doing primary fault- solder big bulbs to ground near sp1 and sp2 - metal cover will be not touch all core.
Huh?
This is just for safety. If you drop the switch, it will be more stable. Otherwise the small capacitors that got solderd wont be strong enough to hold the whole cables and stuff.
Ok I’m just gonna pay expert to do this
It's really not that hard if you pay attention and take your time however it's not for everyone. I have done dozens now and no issues months later. If you have the right equipment it really goes a long way.
YOINK! downloaded for safe keeping
Ha archive it too Justin Case however I can't see this being removed there's quite a few guides out there about this stuff 😉
@@DNAMobileGaming yeah im just paranoid. thank you very much for the detailed guide. i can tell you put a lot of work into it!
No problem a phone with a good camera works well for zooming into the board too btw otherwise the microscope really helps a lot. I use it a lot now and even used it to mod my PSP screen recently.
Where's the part 2?
Check the recent videos on the channel 😁
Hey bro can you help I can't get my tinfoil to work
What's not working?
@@DNAMobileGaming tinfoil not installing I keep saying unable to start software
@@shortboss2537 the installer is broken on 18.1.0 not sure why but it only works on 18.0.1 which is what the SD card setup guide I shared was for. You'll just have to open it with the .nro app.
@@DNAMobileGaming okay thanks I'll try 👍🏾
Merci beaucoup !
used flux to tint. saved flux to actually solder the contacts. 😑
Sweet I think as I don't really know if that is a question or a statement lol.
Please, man, please let your audience know to be very careful with the metal pin opening the shield. I just tried doing this process like 30 minutes and ended up scraping the board and totalling the board. Worst feeling. Please try to show things better.
Of course you need to be careful with this entire process I've done tons of these if you use a needle you shouldn't have issues.🧐
I ripped the capacitor... Heh
Dang that really sucks, some companies fix those.
I can not solder
I can't either but I did honestly I've only soldered a ton of large components in the past and wires. This was fun to challenge myself, I've now done 2 main Switch consoles and 5 Lites 😂.
Same.
Как он не делайте, ничего
Nice
Just... eww
Use flux people!
Never half-ass clean.... anything
And use flux!
This process takes 10 minutes with proper used of flux and good cleaning.. even with terribly tremmors
And use flux!
I used lots of flux not sure why you're saying this?
@@DNAMobileGaming actually you didn't used any while soldering the ribbon to the GPU... the 2 caps. That's why you had such a hard time with the solder going where you wanted it.
@@SteveMoore71 I sure did there was flux all over it still I didn't add anymore because there was a huge amount if you look closely around 26:00 you can see the shine of the flux plus my solder has flux as well. I've now successfully hacked a dozen consoles however without any problems 3 of which my kids use and they still work great.
@@DNAMobileGaming Absolutely, there was residual. But not enough in the needed locations to assist the solder in flowing where you want it. Look at 24:36 as an example. Above SP1 is what (technically too much) solder looks like when it has good assist from flux. Above SP2 (again has to much) the solder is both 'stringy, and not even clinging to the pad above the S.. lower tiny bit of the pad is exposed still, and again, that 'stringy' solder above the 2. Will this work? Sure, potentially. Im willing to bet that the left-most pad of SP1 isn't even attached. Its just friction that's maintaining the minimal current needed. At 37:11 you can kinda see what appears to be a crack, or line, between the 2 parts. Could just be lighting. At 35:37 there is a distinct split as well, but you re-heated after that.
So some problems you are having...
1... dirty work environment. You really need to get all of that old thermal past out of there! Its doing absolutely zero good in transferring heat and making it terribly hard for the solder to properly adhere. Thermal past is almost all silicon based, and even extremely good flux will struggle eating it all. Remove all you can with a spudger or dry swab. Then scrub with a clean toothbrush and 90% Isopropyl. 70%, as you can see in your video, leaves droplets in the poorly cleaned chip
2 ... Wipe away wet alcohol wit ha lint-free tool. You can see all over the place where threads from your cotton swabs are left behind. They contaminate the solder, stick in uncleaned thermal paste (creating absolutely HUGE gaps between the chip and the heatpipe!) Anddo nothing positive for you.
3 ... Set your temp iron temp WAY cooler! Youre temp should be only a little hotter than the melting point of your chosen solder. And the tip you use should be based on how muce of that heat has to be transferred into the part. In this project... a copper dot on a ribbon cable and a tiny SMD. You cald almost use a needle point and succeed;
4 ... Apply new flux to every new connection, and as soon as you see that its burned. But clean away the old before applying new. This rids the area of contaminents. In several places around where you referenced above you can see how burned that flux it that you're mentioning. This is because its contaminated from being used too long, and at WAY to high a heat. Look at the soldering tip at 28:48. Its not tinned and its baked to hell and back. Shortly after you clean it, fail to use flux, and add a blob of solder. That solder is going to jump off as soon as it has a place to go. It should flow on the tip just as smoothly and even as a perfectly soldered join on a $1200 motherboard.
And absolutely most of all... Im not trying to be a dick! Just trying to help. Soldering can be a PITA! But it seems that most people do really well after they get over this imaginary hump in the middle of the learning curve. Just trying to help ya get there
MEWO
Congrats to the crappy soldering Job. Omfg Just dont so it If you are unable to so it. Pretty Bad ...
Pardon? My Soldering job worked out perfectly the Switch still works and get used daily to this day. This was video showing those that are NEW to Soldering what to do but if you feel better about yourself now for bashing me in the comments for no reason at all, then hit that subscribe button and move on with your life 😀
@@DNAMobileGaming Its Just Bad. Just the truth
T
Thanks appreciate it 🙏 ☺️ 🙌 👍 sorry you should see how good my Soldering skills are now as I've soldered multiple Switches and some are used by kids that don't take care of things as well as adults and they still work fine.
I need the install files not on your description
There isn't any files in this video to install this is to install the chip. Check my SD card guide for this.
@@DNAMobileGaming I believe he's asking about the files to flash the pico that you mentioned would be in the description or "somewhere else"
@everettdamian oh shoot I just realized I didn't add those! I'll add them now thank you whoops 🤭
ive done atleast 80 switch mods the above shouldnt take more than 15 minutes
Sweet I've done only 7 myself and can do the V1/2 in about 20 minutes as well the reason this is slower is because it's filmed for teaching how it can be done.