Personally the point of building older bikes is to get a good ride but find ways to cut the cost. I wouldn't swap the wheels unless really needed. And R7000 105 works very well. Ive been shocked by how little work used bikes need to get back to perfect functionality.
I agree with 100 precent, i own a Caad 12 rim and i absolutely adore it but the disc version makes no sense, very limited tire clearance, no comfort ,the weird hub spacing, etc, while i agree giving an old bike a new lease on life is a great feeling this frame is not it, the newer caad 13 offers what you need for $2500 new, I am sorry but this attempt by dave is futile. While is nice to have a professional shop do the job for free not everyone has that option, to strip down a used bike, cleaned and rebuilt any reputable shop will charge at least $500 . Not a good deal when you do the math and not a bike that excels at anything.
@@ciprian7 You are an idiot. This bike excels at everything. The disc version rocks. The hub spacing is normal for that era. Not futile whatsoever. ALL the CAAD bikes are worthy of upgrading. Be a man and do the work yourself. Hes only using a mechanic to guide you in right direction.
The guy rides a slammed stem just because it looks cool. I mean, that's just about the worst example you could give a cyclist to ride their bike unless you're just trying to push sales of new road race bikes.
Buying an old alu frame and replacing most parts makes much more sense if it's replaced with older groupsets such as 11-sp mechanical rim, which are much lower price than current gen groupsets.
I have two bikes - a 2013 CAAD10 with 105, and a 2015 SuperSix EVO with Ultegra. Both rim brake, both crazy lightweight. The CAAD is a 58cm with a short stem to reduce reach. The SS is 56cm and is setup a little more aggressive with some mavic carbon wheels, and carbon seatpost and stem. All in I've spent about $2300 total for both bikes + upgrades. I have absolutely no desire to upgrade or buy a new bike.
Cannondale died with the redesigned SuperSix and CAAD 13 around 2020. You can't distinguish their new road frames from those of their competitors. Gone is the innovation and character that made 'Dales unique.
@@zoso73 During the 2010s, shortly after I got into cycling, I noticed Cannondale's more traditional frame designs are what made them stand out among other manufacturers. At that time, there's no aero bike of theirs in production. Their previous-generation branding design looks better too.
Right, it's a bit ridiculous. Who on earth is going to buy a second hand bike, then put brand new overpriced Hunt alu wheels on for £500 and a pointless groupset replacement for £550. You've just spent 2x more than the entire bike just on components you already had
Loving the CAAD12 content David. I'm building one up myself, with Sram Force 1x and the Ratio Technology 12 speed conversion kit. I lived in Stroud and Cirencester for most of my life, working just round the corner from Ride 24/7, so always great to see your videos in the Cotswolds. Reminds me of home!
a wind tunnel test on the CAAD12 vs the SL8 would be great. Your previous test on a TCR showed it was pretty aero but it is not marketed as an aero bike.
I have a caad10 with ultegra 11 speed mechanical. Got it for 800 USD a couple years ago and absolutely love it. I wish it didn't have the bb30 but can definitely live with it. So many gems out there on the second hand market.
Used to be an "old" bike was 30 years old or more. My buddy has my Bianchi with sewups from more than 40 years ago lol. I guess my 2017 carbon Synapse is an "old bike"? Doesn't feel old, especially after adding a set of inexpensive Chinese ($400) carbon hoops and GP5000 tires.
Yes, my old rim brake aluminium roadie from 2011 is a joy to ride after upgrading the wheels and groupset. So much quieter than my disc carbon bike which rattles and squeaks. I will enjoy it while it lasts. Sourcing parts will get harder 😢
I use a 2007 Bianchi Nirone 7 Veloce, bought secondhand in 2012 for £750. Only things I’ve changed are the tyres, rear derailleur, derailleur bracket, chain and handlebar tape. It still rides beautifully - and I feel absolutely no need to upgrade it.
I think it's a fun project, even if it doesn't really work out financially. I'm glad you did this because there can be more to being a bike enthusiast than just riding your bike. Building a bit, even if it is ultimately more expensive is a great project. Basically this is a £500 frame set as configured. You essentially get torn to pieces by the markup on each individual upgrade. The main problem I see from a cost perspective is replacing the bottom bracket. Every other operation on the bike can easily be done by a determined home mechanic. However, the press fit BB30 requires tools that aren't worth buying. If you're going aluminium, probably better to try to find a BSA bottom bracket. I wonder if this project is just a bit too early. Wait 3 years and you can probably get a similar deal on a frame that will build up more easily. I've been thinking a lot about this. At one point (this year!) I was determined to keep my 10 year old bike running as long as possible, but it's becoming obvious that the writing is on the wall. Eventually I'll have to replace it. Maybe a similar bike build will be for me.
I still have a CAAD4 built with Campagnolo 10 speed, traditional 32 spoke Mavic rims 44cm bar and 25c tires. Might swap in 28s one of these days, but I have zero need for anything more modern. Weighs about 9kg, still shifts perfectly and feels like it's still breaking in. The wheels have had minor truing twice in almost 2 decades. Once this cassette finally wears out, maybe I'll spend a few hundred on a new bottom-of-the-line Campy 11s group, but it's not really necessary. Unless you're actually racing competitively, I really don't see the point.
Well its a lovely bike but all in + the cost to get installed if you can't do it yourself it would out about the same to get a new carbon tcr probably even with di2 for a little more.
It’s not difficult to build a bike up. If you started cycling / racing when I did after a wet Sunday club ride nine times out of 10 you needed to strip out and grease the bottom bracket as it was full of water. No liners or sealed brackets those days. Just take your time.
Done a similar build last year. Bought a Cannondale Caad 7 R2000 in mint Condition for 400€ sold the Ultegra/Dura Ace Parts and Mavic Ksyrium Wheelset for around the same value. So i got the frame for free basically. I planned for nice but sensable used Parts but got carried away. Got a used DT Swiss PR 1400 Wheelset (the black brakesurface sold it for me) and found a Force AXS for a good price. I can say, i build my dreambike for around 1400-1500€ after selling all the unwanted parts. Weighs just under 8kg (size 58). Iam very happy with it. A new bike for around the same price would we worse in every way in my opinion.
Another great video, as usual. And you certainly illustrate how there can be plenty of difficulties in upgrading even a 6 year old bike. I no longer race so, although slightly less aero, I'm happy to stick to my small collection of road bikes that I've had for over 40 years now; because every part is reliable, serviceable, interchangeable and, above all, affordable if I have to buy any replacement parts. The issue of obsolescence in the bike industry is the single biggest reason why I haven't bought a new bike for over forty years now, despite being a massive bike fan.
The only bike i have is a Trek Domane 4.3 in grey , purchased in February 2013 for the princely sum of £1299.00p , which was the bike of the year, and its still in use, I have changed BB for a Ninja Token,s , which work really well and last over 3000 miles , plus very easy to replace , I have been though maybe four wheelsets , currently on Scribes which seem to be lasting , plus just as many Chains , cassette's and chain rings all being Shimano 105 ,it still looks good after a wash ,n, Polish and i still have the original Bontrager wheels .
Dave, if that’s the standard alloy seatpost in there then try switching it with a carbon SAVE one, it takes away quite a bit of the road buzz on these bikes. Made a big difference on the R7000 bike I bought, stripped and upgraded
Nice to see a UA-camr looking at cheaper options. Another option is a new carbon bike from Decathlon for £2,099. Only problem is getting hold of one! And I have no idea how good or bad they are.
I’d say you would be safe enough with one. I’ve raced the older Ultra CF from decathlon in crits and road since 2017 and it’s had a hard life. It’s held up well especially when you consider I am on my 3rd Giant defy frame in less than 14 months. So my £1050 decathlon bike has outlasted my £3100 Giant defy.
ANOTHER great informative video! Spot on with what cyclists are thinking and wondering about these days. Thank you! You really made the premium build out - almost everything less the pedals and frame! Certainly not everyone would go that far, so that could reduce the cost. Upgrades are the way to go for me unless there are limitations with the frame that prevent it. Have one old bike I'd really like to upgrade. But frame just won't allow larger tires or disc brakes, so it's a no-go. Time for a new bike. 😆
I’d love more videos like this. Focussing on bike that are common in the recent second hand market. What to look for and known issues with specific models not just updating for the sake of it.
I did the same thing ! Bought a canyon endurance 9.0 cf slx from 2019 with 2k euro and i dont regret a second ! Totally worth it and the bike its flawless .
I managed to build up two eBay bikes last year: a Felt b2 pro TT bike with 'as new' Dura-Ace components for £800 (excluding wheelset as I already had carbon wheels) and a gravel bike I built with a Boardman CX Team and new Apex components for under £600 (including wheels this time). I've not cut corners, but I have tried to get the best deals. I've found that bike maintenance / bike building has become a hobby in itself.
To sum this up…. It’s not worth it. You can get modern bike, that’s in the more than good enough category for a lot less than 2000 pounds. Plus you didn’t include the real world build costs. Yeah no
Great looking bike. I love what you did to it. I’m still rocking an 05’ Cannondale Six13. I’d love to trade up to something newer eventually. More than likely used vs new.
I am oftenly upgrade old bikes with nice groupset and carbon wheelset. the last R900 series of 1990's weight 6kgt9 only , amazing stiffness, super light. On merlin titanium same think super looking still rolls on amazing style
I bought a used CAAD8 (lightly used with wheels/brakes upgraded) and Giant Defy 0 Ali ( barely used) for £900 total. Other than saddles and tyre swap outs nothing else needed. Love riding both - especially the CAAD8 as it feels alive (and comfy enough with 28mm tyres). I bought them off fleabay and I had to choose carefully but if you are prepared to spend the time and take the risk it’s a brilliant option to buy even more bikes than you really need without breaking the bank.
I'd get a peak rim brake bike rather than an early disc brake bike. Top value and functionality are in the former, while the latter were hastily converted frames originally designed to be rim. If you want discs, wait until the current crop are old and cheap
Yes agree, I would especially avoid discs with QR. They worked ok for MTBs because the larger pad clearance to the disc, but are more prone to problems with discs rubbing with road disc. Plus the suspension damped the initial jolt of hard braking but with a rigid bike it’s more likely to cause the QR axle to move.
Slightly used is where it’s at If you buy a new bike your wasting money in the current market. I got a mint 2019 BMC team machine three with dura ace cranks and ultegra components with 6.7 enve ses for 4000$ bike had less then 500 miles on it Basically a new bike I also got a 2022 Time Scylon di2 dura ace without a saddle and wheels for 4500$ he was asking 6500 but negotiated the bike without the saddle and hunt wheels and just use my dt Swiss or Enve 6.7 . Bought Enve ses bars , Enve stem and specialized romin evo mirror saddle and basically it’s a 12000$ bike for 6 k The only new bike I ever bought was my Litespeed t1sl and it’s hands down the best bike I own or ever ridden and I have ridden all the high end bikes . Dogma , sl6/sl7 , colnago c60, Madone etc Buy used is the way yo go . The Time is also basically new as the seller works at Time and it was a test model he got from work that was too small so another come up in a major way . Also the time and BMC were purchased on eBay .
@@Maxd555 I own a bike shop and would charge about £180 to stop down and build. Obviously not many shops are going to work for free. You would have to be mad to spend that sort of money on an old bike!
I ride a Caad 12 rim, Hi Mod fork, Campy Athena group, alloy Shamal wheels, weights 7.2 kg and does everything well , i do all my Zwift , off season riding on it, has almost 20k miles and looks mew, i can ride 28mm tires no problem. Disc version is nothing like that, was a weird time for Cannondale and early for disc development, not a finished product IMHO
Tastefull and good looking CAAD12 build. The slammed stem looks great and I would make the extra effort and get the Di2 with the new ergonomic hoods. Cheers!
Great video, thanks for sharing. Makes me appreciate the manual 105 shifters on my Bianchi Oltra XR3 and not worry about upgrading. Wheels.- now I like that set of Hunts as an upgrade, will check that out now.
I got myself a used 2019 CAAD12, nicely upgraded everywhere (except wheels) at 1300 euros and a set DT SWISS PR1400 on sale at 540 euros. I wanted to see what peak aluminati is like, and now I am thinking of selling my entry-level roubaix to cannibalize its deep carbon wheels for the CAAD...
Some project choices make more economic sense than others. But I think the possibilities are what Dave is really trying to get across. Plus, I can't fault a man for buying an alloy Cannondale. I'm on my third Cannondale road frame just now (6th MTB). Cheers
This is a great vid David and more channels should do like this.. but only upgrade if really needed, just ride it first for a while and then when you do come to upgrade you can really the changes made 😊.. I’d love to see a wind tunnel comparison.. and these are just my opinions 👍🚴🏻😃 Pete
I just sold my CAAD12 frame/fork and a R7020 groupset that was take off from the bike that replaced it! Those Hunt wheels are worth more than an entire used bike!
David your videos are really beginning to fill a gap in the cycling community that needs filled to stop the likes of GCN making everyone feel they need to spend 4k+ on a bike just to go for their bun run! Those hunt wheels sound absolutely horrendous though 🤣 thanks for creating this level headed content - love it
My "winter" bike is a bowman palace 3 all built up with 2nd hand stuff barely used. Picked the frame up super cheap 2nd hand when there was the chainstay breaking drama (ive had zero issues). £225 with ultegra bb Fulcrum racing 4s that had done 200km with shimano xtr rotors and some continental grand prixs. £130 Tiagra 10 speed hydraulic groupset. Approx £150, i bought this over a few months Ali express carbon saddle £12 (have same one on all my bikes) Carbon seatpost £17 Carbon handlebar stem, factor clone £50. Senicx 165mm crankset approx £55 Had all other bite and pieces lying about. I always pick this bike over my much "better" carbon aero bike.
so, this is the problem. just bought a new bike £4k list price bike (ultegra di2, carbon wheels, etc) retailed at 1k off, then another 15% at check out. with ctw scheme, cost to me is 1600...
With the bike industry pushing "entry-level" prices higher & higher it makes sense to look into the secondhand bike market. You can find older bikes with good components (& sometimes wheels) for a lot less money. The only catch is you have to know something about component compatibility or there could be issues down the road. Do your homework & restore a perfectly good used bike while saving money in the process!
Clearly some commentators haven’t listened to what you have said David. A bit silly because You were clear about a few specifics which were critically commented on. End result of the build, pretty impressive.
Just because there carbon doesn’t make them great wheels , Those cheap carbon wheels are all glass fibre and minimal carbon that’s how they keep the cost down . Would I trust those wheels on a descent 🤔 or a good quality set of aluminium rims . Also winter in the uk with super potholes and huge puddles and mud and debris on the roads calls for a stronger wheel . My winter bike has alloy wheels for all those crunching slams .
Another way to save. buy a new frameset from a few years ago. The one i got was in a box and i then used a good existing groupset and bought new wheels.
I was fortunate to do this, twice. One is a 2018 model, the other is a 2020 model. Both are brand new and the latter was actually second-hand in theory, but it was never built. The best thing is, they're my most sought-after mass-production models.
100% agree on the philosophy of the video. It's a beauty of a bike and to my eyes at least, the aesthetic of a well sorted CAAD 12 disc is as good as any modern carbon weapon, save for the non-integrated (but easy to work on yourself) front end. A -17 stem would look great but with a slammed -7 or -8 etc the look is still purposeful. It's a personal passion of mine to take an old steel 90's frame and build it up myself into something with modern components and give it another life. You could also argue that the original components can be sold for some cash so that would reduce the end cost further - but regardless you can't put a price on sourcing and building up your own custom bike.
Hi all, I’m thinking of building up a Caad 12 and was wondering if anyone has any fitting opinions? I’m 181cm tall and 83cm inseam which puts my legs within a size 54 and height at the top range of the 56. Any advice?
I put a 2nd hand pair of campy zonda c17 wheels and gp5000 tyres on my 2012 Alu defy and it’s a rocket ship now 😅 just as fast as my super dupa carbon bike!
You should get the 25.4 Cannondale SAVE carbon seatpost to knock out some of the vibrations. Had put that on my caad12, worked well for intended purpose
There are others, just by updating certain components it remains almost the same weight or the same as a current one, and the carbon wheels with an aluminum braking surface with tubeless ones solve the issue of hydraulic braking power, it is my humble opinion
Enyoyed that, surprised it came in at under 8kgs for a disc brake CAAD12. That’s reasonably light vs. the new albeit more aero stuff. Like the idea of a wind tunnel test for a comparison of this to a modern aero frameset to know how much all that hiding of cables etc really makes.
I’m blown away that you were able to fit 30mm tyres in that fork mate. Wondering if the Pirelli’s 30mm is equivalent to a normal 28mm. Love what you’ve done with this bike, BTW
@@jjn232 What are the following measurements on your setup? Actual tire width Wheelset's internal rim width Clearance between the tire and frameset (if it's still a minimum of 4 mm, OK)
I bought a Dura-Ace Addict 2014 on Ebay last ear. Loved the DA silver aesthetic, all Dan Dare spacecraft from the 1950s. Imagine my disappointment when I had to get the free swap to the new Darth-Vadar black 12sp crank because of "the issues". Win some, lose some...
Great Vid! Would love to see what the best bike you could get for say £1000 / $1200 - is better to go cheap second hand and upgrade, or straight second hand on the price limit, or new?
lol this guy spent 500 on a bike, then replaced the wheels, tires, group set, stem, handlebars and saddle. He paid 500 pounds for an old aluminum frame and fork.
What's the toll cost for this old bike, so we can see the comparison against a new bike from a main player... 2021 I got mech 105 full carbon canyon 2K and so far really enjoying it. Would I like new wheels and electronic gearing .... Yes , but at what cost ?
I have a 2012 year old Synapse, which I love. I see no reason to upgrade. I really don't think I can get anything other than 25mm tires on my Synapse. I only have about 3mm of space on each side of the tire on the front, and about 4mm on the rear. Evidence is showing wider tires are faster, and here's the problem. Will the available tire selection for 25mm tires dwindle to a handful of choices in 3-5 years, due to a decrease in demand? Great video, but I personally would be very cautious about buying a used road bike. I suspect if your bike can accept 28mm tires, you're good for a while. But if your bike can only accept 25mm or 23mm tires, I'm not so sure.
The idea is similar to home computers in the 1980s. Upgrade, upgrade, upgrade. Wait, it's cheaper to get better by buying new. I wanted thru-hub, 29er disc brakes. Now your looking for all that in a used bike? Get what you want, don't worry whether it's a new or used bike. Both ways have it's pros & cons.
What year is this CAAD12 frameset? I bought a 2015 colossal ti frame and rebuilt it with a 105 groupset and some carbon components. It had some similar issues with the disc mounts. IS mount on the rear and Post mount on the fork, so i swapped the fork for an enve fork to get flat mount.
No way, that was only for fun. I buying old steel frames and building them up, mostly with used parts expect cassettes, cables, chains and so on. My last project was a Spezi Allez Sprint (rim) for around 500€. In winter I got some cheap and good stuff like Campa Zonda wheels (250€), new cassette and chain, new bearings, cables and so on. In the end I paid around 1100€ for a 8 Kg bike (size XL). It´s a lot of fun and thrill. It´s kicking me more than buying a new one. But 2,5k is way to much for this odd standards, better for old rim break stuff.
This video summarises the madness of the cycling industry quite well - endless standards, mismatches, and lots of money needed to make it all working properly.... Unless the groupset and the wheels were faulty on the bike when you bought it, is there a reason they were changed? Spending twice the cost of the bike on upgrades completely negates the budget used bike tag....
I have those DTswiss R470 wheels and they aren't great. My guess is that that the HUNT's are better. I also typically have to change the stock components to get to achieve the right fit. Baseline cost of a $2300 bike is almost always hundreds more at least for me. Great vid!
Really nice build and the parts look consistent to the frame. But if I understand you correctly, you kept from the original bike just the frame, the fork, the headset and the seatpost, everything else was replaced/upgraded. I beg the question if it is not possible to find a naked frame with fork, plus seatpost and headset for the price you payed for the bike, brand new and of a decent quality. Not that anything is wrong with the CAAD 12, excellent bike, but with a used bike there is always the risk of hidden damages which may eventually ruin the whole build.
A quick search on eBay reveals a frame (in the wrong size) is £500 on its own, and complete bikes are going for as much as £2000. That's not factoring in the travel costs of trying to find a second hand bike that is local to you. I'm not saying this is perfect and everyone should do it, it was just meant to be a bit of fun and show what is possible but interesting to see so many negative comments attacking it. Can't please everyone I guess
@@davidarthur Most of all you were really lucky then to find this bike at such a low price in the first place. I see the point you are making, to upgrade an older bike to modern specs and see how it competes with a new bike. However, I think it was more reasonable to keep at least the wheels as a cost cutting choice.
I love my 12 year old tarmac; is actually lighter and climbs better than my tarmac sl7, i find myself riding the SL4 a lot more than the SL7. will never spend money again on an overpriced and over hyped bicycle. Great video.
Smart man, a bike is more or less just a bike. One may be lighter, shift a little better, etc. but is that (minor) difference worth the price? The bike manufacturers want you to want what they are selling regardless of the price. Same thing with the auto industry. They prefer that you buy their high-end products because there is more profit for them.
My Canyon Endurace carbon frame with 105 disc at 8,2 was the heavy low price alternative in 2018. Now 8,2 kg is considered quite light for an endurance bike.
@@ketle369 My favourite bike is a hardtail mtb which weighs 9kg. When it comes to road bikes I can't bring myself to ride a bike that is close to that, road bikes should be svelte which is why mine starts with a 6 in kg... with the brakes that are fine for road.
I dont think u need that much cash to upgrade it out. For that price u can get an emonda ALR with the same groupset all new. Altho that caad is a really good frameset and defo worth upgrading and riding
@@davidarthur yes pretty hard to beat a caad frameset. But i reckon new tires, proper bar and stem and a good tuneup and deep clean will do so for under 1000€
Very nice! I have those wheels on my Planet X Pro Carbon I also picked up a Specialized Allez with 105 group set Mavic wheels (Rim Brake) for £225 :-) Maybe try swapping your Stem with a Red Shift Shockstop...
@@davidarthur thanks. I thought they were the 44 but you do say they're not later on. My Dad is on an older frame (Bianchi Infinito Disc QR) and is need of a new wheelset. Do you think these are a good shout? My alloys are rim braked Campag Zonda/Fulcrum Racing 3 and they do a comparable disc option.
@@davidarthurwell, if you're thinking of flogging them in the future let me know... Similar price he'd be looking at Prime 44mm carbon discs I'd suspect.
The real price advantage is between rim brake and disc brake road bikes. The adoption of disc brakes has caused the price of top level rim brake road bikes to fall a lot. This means that you can now get a top drawer road bike with rim brakes and save a fortune in the process. Those bikes ride amazingly well.
David, odd question i have a caad12 and just purchased the Hunt34 Aero wheelset off the back of your earlier video. As the rear is QR was there a specific Lock Ring that you need for the rotors, such as the HB-M8010 or hb20?
Good fun but feels extravagant for the result. The truly artful rebuild involves the judicious use of one’s parts bin with maybe buying one major bit new. Another approach would be to retain the original build, clean it thoroughly, new bar tape and rubber, maybe new bearings.
Ho David, thanks for the video, could you list the parts (with part number) used, my English is not that good to understand everything you have said. Thanks from Brazil!
Better idea, buy a pro bike from last year. They are out there, you just have to look, ask and offer. Picking up my 2023 TREK Boone 6, Ultegra di 12, Pro Vibe cockpit, tubeless training wheels (using my own race wheels), new chain, cassette, pads, rotors AND the best part - all professionally serviced, built back-up by the team mechanic for about $100 more than you spent. You gotta be ready to jump at the end of whatever race season (CX in my case). Make friends with team managers/mechanics.
Folks have gotten wise to how good the Caad 10 and 12 frames are so pretty much anyone selling one knows they have a big market so very hard to find a bargain. The 13s are still considered 'new' hence them holding their value too.
No, its not light. Its a lead sled. My 20 y.o. Piave weighs 5.5 kg with its pedals, & its nothing special, just a good robust setup. Of my CAAD3s, one on full Dura Ace 7800, C24 7900, one on full Ultegra 6600, C24 9100, both come in under 6 kg.
I bought a 2005 trek sl 1000 and I’m just riding this until I can save up for something. Currently looking at trek emonda alr. Bikes are unbelievably expensive
I was more worried about the rear 😅 I have a supersix evo disc 2nd gen fork and it seems wider at the front than the caad 12 fork, you currently have. Video about my bike (40 seconds) available on my channel.
There's more room at the front and 30 fits. At the rear it is tight as the chainstays run straight. You woud need a very well built wheel with perfect dishing and lateral true and depending on rider weight you might get some rub out of the saddle.
@@davidarthur True, but I have the 2019 model which has the updated fork, with internal brake cable and thru axle, so both problems solved. I'd imagine the 30mm would hit the chain stays under load...
Personally the point of building older bikes is to get a good ride but find ways to cut the cost. I wouldn't swap the wheels unless really needed. And R7000 105 works very well. Ive been shocked by how little work used bikes need to get back to perfect functionality.
I agree with 100 precent, i own a Caad 12 rim and i absolutely adore it but the disc version makes no sense, very limited tire clearance, no comfort ,the weird hub spacing, etc, while i agree giving an old bike a new lease on life is a great feeling this frame is not it, the newer caad 13 offers what you need for $2500 new, I am sorry but this attempt by dave is futile. While is nice to have a professional shop do the job for free not everyone has that option, to strip down a used bike, cleaned and rebuilt any reputable shop will charge at least $500 . Not a good deal when you do the math and not a bike that excels at anything.
@@ciprian7 You are an idiot. This bike excels at everything. The disc version rocks. The hub spacing is normal for that era. Not futile whatsoever. ALL the CAAD bikes are worthy of upgrading. Be a man and do the work yourself. Hes only using a mechanic to guide you in right direction.
The guy rides a slammed stem just because it looks cool. I mean, that's just about the worst example you could give a cyclist to ride their bike unless you're just trying to push sales of new road race bikes.
old roadies do weird shit for fun.@@SurpriseMeJT
@@SurpriseMeJTto each there own I guess. I'd prefer comfort over looks any day of the week.
Buying an old alu frame and replacing most parts makes much more sense if it's replaced with older groupsets such as 11-sp mechanical rim, which are much lower price than current gen groupsets.
I have two bikes - a 2013 CAAD10 with 105, and a 2015 SuperSix EVO with Ultegra. Both rim brake, both crazy lightweight. The CAAD is a 58cm with a short stem to reduce reach. The SS is 56cm and is setup a little more aggressive with some mavic carbon wheels, and carbon seatpost and stem. All in I've spent about $2300 total for both bikes + upgrades. I have absolutely no desire to upgrade or buy a new bike.
That era of Cannondale were perhaps the last of the good looking conventional bike designs, that actually worked too ❤
Cannondale died with the redesigned SuperSix and CAAD 13 around 2020. You can't distinguish their new road frames from those of their competitors. Gone is the innovation and character that made 'Dales unique.
@@zoso73 During the 2010s, shortly after I got into cycling, I noticed Cannondale's more traditional frame designs are what made them stand out among other manufacturers. At that time, there's no aero bike of theirs in production. Their previous-generation branding design looks better too.
@@sbccbc7471 Right. The pre-2020 race bikes look like race bikes.
so basically its 500£ used alu frame. everything else has changed :)
Which makes the whole video pretty pointless to be honest.
Seems so
Right, it's a bit ridiculous. Who on earth is going to buy a second hand bike, then put brand new overpriced Hunt alu wheels on for £500 and a pointless groupset replacement for £550. You've just spent 2x more than the entire bike just on components you already had
Yes, just buy a new bike then
I like upgrading older framesets as I find the newer ones have so many proprietary parts 😢.
I like to tinker and don't like being locked in.
Loving the CAAD12 content David. I'm building one up myself, with Sram Force 1x and the Ratio Technology 12 speed conversion kit.
I lived in Stroud and Cirencester for most of my life, working just round the corner from Ride 24/7, so always great to see your videos in the Cotswolds. Reminds me of home!
I love old bikes, but it has to be a frame that can fit 28s for me to even consider it.
a wind tunnel test on the CAAD12 vs the SL8 would be great. Your previous test on a TCR showed it was pretty aero but it is not marketed as an aero bike.
Do you ride in a win tunnel or on the road?
@@the.communist😂nice one
windy roads@@the.communist
Wind tunnel shows you the wind coming in one way, on the road, in 250 meters, you can have with from all over and crosswinds aswell @@parmijo
Wind Tunnels can vary the yaw angle. Bikes are mounted on a turntable. They can simulate wind from any direction.@@bernardo9202
I have a caad10 with ultegra 11 speed mechanical. Got it for 800 USD a couple years ago and absolutely love it. I wish it didn't have the bb30 but can definitely live with it. So many gems out there on the second hand market.
Used to be an "old" bike was 30 years old or more. My buddy has my Bianchi with sewups from more than 40 years ago lol. I guess my 2017 carbon Synapse is an "old bike"? Doesn't feel old, especially after adding a set of inexpensive Chinese ($400) carbon hoops and GP5000 tires.
Yes, my old rim brake aluminium roadie from 2011 is a joy to ride after upgrading the wheels and groupset. So much quieter than my disc carbon bike which rattles and squeaks. I will enjoy it while it lasts. Sourcing parts will get harder 😢
I use a 2007 Bianchi Nirone 7 Veloce, bought secondhand in 2012 for £750. Only things I’ve changed are the tyres, rear derailleur, derailleur bracket, chain and handlebar tape. It still rides beautifully - and I feel absolutely no need to upgrade it.
I think it's a fun project, even if it doesn't really work out financially. I'm glad you did this because there can be more to being a bike enthusiast than just riding your bike. Building a bit, even if it is ultimately more expensive is a great project.
Basically this is a £500 frame set as configured. You essentially get torn to pieces by the markup on each individual upgrade. The main problem I see from a cost perspective is replacing the bottom bracket. Every other operation on the bike can easily be done by a determined home mechanic. However, the press fit BB30 requires tools that aren't worth buying. If you're going aluminium, probably better to try to find a BSA bottom bracket.
I wonder if this project is just a bit too early. Wait 3 years and you can probably get a similar deal on a frame that will build up more easily. I've been thinking a lot about this. At one point (this year!) I was determined to keep my 10 year old bike running as long as possible, but it's becoming obvious that the writing is on the wall. Eventually I'll have to replace it. Maybe a similar bike build will be for me.
I still have a CAAD4 built with Campagnolo 10 speed, traditional 32 spoke Mavic rims 44cm bar and 25c tires. Might swap in 28s one of these days, but I have zero need for anything more modern. Weighs about 9kg, still shifts perfectly and feels like it's still breaking in. The wheels have had minor truing twice in almost 2 decades. Once this cassette finally wears out, maybe I'll spend a few hundred on a new bottom-of-the-line Campy 11s group, but it's not really necessary.
Unless you're actually racing competitively, I really don't see the point.
Well its a lovely bike but all in + the cost to get installed if you can't do it yourself it would out about the same to get a new carbon tcr probably even with di2 for a little more.
Or just buy a secondhand bike with the components you like.
It’s not difficult to build a bike up. If you started cycling / racing when I did after a wet Sunday club ride nine times out of 10 you needed to strip out and grease the bottom bracket as it was full of water. No liners or sealed brackets those days. Just take your time.
Yeah but the problem with that is you get a carbon TCR with Di2...
Done a similar build last year. Bought a Cannondale Caad 7 R2000 in mint Condition for 400€ sold the Ultegra/Dura Ace Parts and Mavic Ksyrium Wheelset for around the same value.
So i got the frame for free basically. I planned for nice but sensable used Parts but got carried away.
Got a used DT Swiss PR 1400 Wheelset (the black brakesurface sold it for me) and found a Force AXS for a good price.
I can say, i build my dreambike for around 1400-1500€ after selling all the unwanted parts.
Weighs just under 8kg (size 58).
Iam very happy with it.
A new bike for around the same price would we worse in every way in my opinion.
plus , good fun doing it yourself
how much was the force etap groupset?
Another great video, as usual. And you certainly illustrate how there can be plenty of difficulties in upgrading even a 6 year old bike.
I no longer race so, although slightly less aero, I'm happy to stick to my small collection of road bikes that I've had for over 40 years now; because every part is reliable, serviceable, interchangeable and, above all, affordable if I have to buy any replacement parts.
The issue of obsolescence in the bike industry is the single biggest reason why I haven't bought a new bike for over forty years now, despite being a massive bike fan.
The only bike i have is a Trek Domane 4.3 in grey , purchased in February 2013 for the princely sum of £1299.00p , which was the bike of the year, and its still in use, I have changed BB for a Ninja Token,s , which work really well and last over 3000 miles , plus very easy to replace , I have been though maybe four wheelsets , currently on Scribes which seem to be lasting , plus just as many Chains , cassette's and chain rings all being Shimano 105 ,it still looks good after a wash ,n, Polish and i still have the original Bontrager wheels .
Dave, if that’s the standard alloy seatpost in there then try switching it with a carbon SAVE one, it takes away quite a bit of the road buzz on these bikes. Made a big difference on the R7000 bike I bought, stripped and upgraded
Yup it's the standard post that's a very good idea leave it with me
Nice to see a UA-camr looking at cheaper options. Another option is a new carbon bike from Decathlon for £2,099. Only problem is getting hold of one! And I have no idea how good or bad they are.
Thanks! And watch this space on that Decathlon model...
@@davidarthur if talking about van rysel, could you maybe get a NCR, instead the RCR that everyone is reviewing?
I’d say you would be safe enough with one. I’ve raced the older Ultra CF from decathlon in crits and road since 2017 and it’s had a hard life. It’s held up well especially when you consider I am on my 3rd Giant defy frame in less than 14 months. So my £1050 decathlon bike has outlasted my £3100 Giant defy.
Virus do cheap carbon bikes. Set of wheels , change the handle bars and stem and you are sorted for less than 2000£
ANOTHER great informative video! Spot on with what cyclists are thinking and wondering about these days. Thank you!
You really made the premium build out - almost everything less the pedals and frame! Certainly not everyone would go that far, so that could reduce the cost. Upgrades are the way to go for me unless there are limitations with the frame that prevent it. Have one old bike I'd really like to upgrade. But frame just won't allow larger tires or disc brakes, so it's a no-go. Time for a new bike. 😆
My bike is sixteen years old. Triax Crimson. It recently had a rebuild. It's a faithful commuter. It's currently on 23mm tyres. Ouch 🤕
I’d love more videos like this. Focussing on bike that are common in the recent second hand market. What to look for and known issues with specific models not just updating for the sake of it.
I did the same thing ! Bought a canyon endurance 9.0 cf slx from 2019 with 2k euro and i dont regret a second ! Totally worth it and the bike its flawless .
I managed to build up two eBay bikes last year: a Felt b2 pro TT bike with 'as new' Dura-Ace components for £800 (excluding wheelset as I already had carbon wheels) and a gravel bike I built with a Boardman CX Team and new Apex components for under £600 (including wheels this time). I've not cut corners, but I have tried to get the best deals.
I've found that bike maintenance / bike building has become a hobby in itself.
To sum this up…. It’s not worth it. You can get modern bike, that’s in the more than good enough category for a lot less than 2000 pounds. Plus you didn’t include the real world build costs. Yeah no
The real bargain is the non-disc, non internal cable routing, non electronic bikes sold in the millions from the early 2000s to the late 2010s.
The Caad is modern
Great looking bike. I love what you did to it. I’m still rocking an 05’ Cannondale Six13. I’d love to trade up to something newer eventually. More than likely used vs new.
I am oftenly upgrade old bikes with nice groupset and carbon wheelset. the last R900 series of 1990's weight 6kgt9 only , amazing stiffness, super light. On merlin titanium same think super looking still rolls on amazing style
I bought a used CAAD8 (lightly used with wheels/brakes upgraded) and Giant Defy 0 Ali ( barely used) for £900 total. Other than saddles and tyre swap outs nothing else needed. Love riding both - especially the CAAD8 as it feels alive (and comfy enough with 28mm tyres). I bought them off fleabay and I had to choose carefully but if you are prepared to spend the time and take the risk it’s a brilliant option to buy even more bikes than you really need without breaking the bank.
I'd get a peak rim brake bike rather than an early disc brake bike. Top value and functionality are in the former, while the latter were hastily converted frames originally designed to be rim. If you want discs, wait until the current crop are old and cheap
Yes agree, I would especially avoid discs with QR. They worked ok for MTBs because the larger pad clearance to the disc, but are more prone to problems with discs rubbing with road disc. Plus the suspension damped the initial jolt of hard braking but with a rigid bike it’s more likely to cause the QR axle to move.
David, I'm really enjoying this series with the Cannondale CAAD 12 and groupset of the people!
Thanks! :)
May as well buy 2nd hand bar tape and add the rest of the bike and say you bought a good used bike....
Slightly used is where it’s at
If you buy a new bike your wasting money in the current market. I got a mint 2019 BMC team machine three with dura ace cranks and ultegra components with 6.7 enve ses for 4000$ bike had less then 500 miles on it
Basically a new bike
I also got a 2022 Time Scylon di2 dura ace without a saddle and wheels for 4500$ he was asking 6500 but negotiated the bike without the saddle and hunt wheels and just use my dt Swiss or Enve 6.7 . Bought Enve ses bars , Enve stem and specialized romin evo mirror saddle and basically it’s a 12000$ bike for 6 k
The only new bike I ever bought was my Litespeed t1sl and it’s hands down the best bike I own or ever ridden and I have ridden all the high end bikes . Dogma , sl6/sl7 , colnago c60, Madone etc
Buy used is the way yo go . The Time is also basically new as the seller works at Time and it was a test model he got from work that was too small so another come up in a major way . Also the time and BMC were purchased on eBay .
You forgot to add £90 for wheels manufacturing Bottom Bracket.
Also build cost 300-350£ probably, nothing is for free 😂 2.5k spend
@@Maxd555 I own a bike shop and would charge about £180 to stop down and build. Obviously not many shops are going to work for free. You would have to be mad to spend that sort of money on an old bike!
I ride a Caad 12 rim, Hi Mod fork, Campy Athena group, alloy Shamal wheels, weights 7.2 kg and does everything well , i do all my Zwift , off season riding on it, has almost 20k miles and looks mew, i can ride 28mm tires no problem. Disc version is nothing like that, was a weird time for Cannondale and early for disc development, not a finished product IMHO
Tastefull and good looking CAAD12 build. The slammed stem looks great and I would make the extra effort and get the Di2 with the new ergonomic hoods. Cheers!
Great video, thanks for sharing. Makes me appreciate the manual 105 shifters on my Bianchi Oltra XR3 and not worry about upgrading. Wheels.- now I like that set of Hunts as an upgrade, will check that out now.
I got myself a used 2019 CAAD12, nicely upgraded everywhere (except wheels) at 1300 euros and a set DT SWISS PR1400 on sale at 540 euros. I wanted to see what peak aluminati is like, and now I am thinking of selling my entry-level roubaix to cannibalize its deep carbon wheels for the CAAD...
Some project choices make more economic sense than others. But I think the possibilities are what Dave is really trying to get across.
Plus, I can't fault a man for buying an alloy Cannondale. I'm on my third Cannondale road frame just now (6th MTB).
Cheers
Thanks Brian you totally get it :)
This is a great vid David and more channels should do like this.. but only upgrade if really needed, just ride it first for a while and then when you do come to upgrade you can really the changes made 😊.. I’d love to see a wind tunnel comparison.. and these are just my opinions 👍🚴🏻😃 Pete
thanks for doing a video on an affordable bike and not the top end unobtanium bikes that nobody needs.
I just sold my CAAD12 frame/fork and a R7020 groupset that was take off from the bike that replaced it! Those Hunt wheels are worth more than an entire used bike!
David your videos are really beginning to fill a gap in the cycling community that needs filled to stop the likes of GCN making everyone feel they need to spend 4k+ on a bike just to go for their bun run!
Those hunt wheels sound absolutely horrendous though 🤣 thanks for creating this level headed content - love it
Is someone gave me an electronic groupset, I'd sell it and get mechanical.
My "winter" bike is a bowman palace 3 all built up with 2nd hand stuff barely used.
Picked the frame up super cheap 2nd hand when there was the chainstay breaking drama (ive had zero issues). £225 with ultegra bb
Fulcrum racing 4s that had done 200km with shimano xtr rotors and some continental grand prixs. £130
Tiagra 10 speed hydraulic groupset. Approx £150, i bought this over a few months
Ali express carbon saddle £12 (have same one on all my bikes)
Carbon seatpost £17
Carbon handlebar stem, factor clone £50.
Senicx 165mm crankset approx £55
Had all other bite and pieces lying about.
I always pick this bike over my much "better" carbon aero bike.
well a new bike with carbon and 105 isnt that expensive if you look around so i disagree about rebuilding a old frame wheels groupset
so, this is the problem. just bought a new bike £4k list price bike (ultegra di2, carbon wheels, etc) retailed at 1k off, then another 15% at check out. with ctw scheme, cost to me is 1600...
With the bike industry pushing "entry-level" prices higher & higher it makes sense to look into the secondhand bike market. You can find older bikes with good components (& sometimes wheels) for a lot less money. The only catch is you have to know something about component compatibility or there could be issues down the road. Do your homework & restore a perfectly good used bike while saving money in the process!
Clearly some commentators haven’t listened to what you have said David. A bit silly because You were clear about a few specifics which were critically commented on. End result of the build, pretty impressive.
Is 500£ for aluminum wheels worth it? I mean you might as well throw in another 200£ more and get carbon. Like Light Bicycle wheels.
EliteWheels do 50mm deep carbon rims for £500. They weigh 1350g. insane value.
Just because there carbon doesn’t make them great wheels ,
Those cheap carbon wheels are all glass fibre and minimal carbon that’s how they keep the cost down .
Would I trust those wheels on a descent 🤔 or a good quality set of aluminium rims .
Also winter in the uk with super potholes and huge puddles and mud and debris on the roads calls for a stronger wheel . My winter bike has alloy wheels for all those crunching slams .
@@saxon1376 well I would say the same thing about Hunt wheels, they don't exactly have an outstanding reputation.
Winspace charges that for carbon ones
Another way to save. buy a new frameset from a few years ago. The one i got was in a box and i then used a good existing groupset and bought new wheels.
I was fortunate to do this, twice. One is a 2018 model, the other is a 2020 model. Both are brand new and the latter was actually second-hand in theory, but it was never built.
The best thing is, they're my most sought-after mass-production models.
100% agree on the philosophy of the video.
It's a beauty of a bike and to my eyes at least, the aesthetic of a well sorted CAAD 12 disc is as good as any modern carbon weapon, save for the non-integrated (but easy to work on yourself) front end. A -17 stem would look great but with a slammed -7 or -8 etc the look is still purposeful.
It's a personal passion of mine to take an old steel 90's frame and build it up myself into something with modern components and give it another life.
You could also argue that the original components can be sold for some cash so that would reduce the end cost further - but regardless you can't put a price on sourcing and building up your own custom bike.
Hi all, I’m thinking of building up a Caad 12 and was wondering if anyone has any fitting opinions? I’m 181cm tall and 83cm inseam which puts my legs within a size 54 and height at the top range of the 56. Any advice?
I put a 2nd hand pair of campy zonda c17 wheels and gp5000 tyres on my 2012 Alu defy and it’s a rocket ship now 😅 just as fast as my super dupa carbon bike!
Plus those wheels are leagues ahead of the hunts on this
@@jamestravill9640 yeah true. My point is that you dont need to spend 1000s to make an old bike quick. I only spent 200quid
You should get the 25.4 Cannondale SAVE carbon seatpost to knock out some of the vibrations. Had put that on my caad12, worked well for intended purpose
There are others, just by updating certain components it remains almost the same weight or the same as a current one, and the carbon wheels with an aluminum braking surface with tubeless ones solve the issue of hydraulic braking power, it is my humble opinion
Enyoyed that, surprised it came in at under 8kgs for a disc brake CAAD12. That’s reasonably light vs. the new albeit more aero stuff.
Like the idea of a wind tunnel test for a comparison of this to a modern aero frameset to know how much all that hiding of cables etc really makes.
I’m blown away that you were able to fit 30mm tyres in that fork mate. Wondering if the Pirelli’s 30mm is equivalent to a normal 28mm. Love what you’ve done with this bike, BTW
Running 30mm GP 5000 on my rim brake caad12. Surprising but it works no problem.
@@jjn232 What are the following measurements on your setup?
Actual tire width
Wheelset's internal rim width
Clearance between the tire and frameset (if it's still a minimum of 4 mm, OK)
David, do you think caad13 build would have had more ride comfort?
Yeah the CAAD13 is a slightly smoother ride but I reckon a carbon seat post on this bike will help a bit
I bought a Dura-Ace Addict 2014 on Ebay last ear. Loved the DA silver aesthetic, all Dan Dare spacecraft from the 1950s. Imagine my disappointment when I had to get the free swap to the new Darth-Vadar black 12sp crank because of "the issues". Win some, lose some...
Nice work, David, an appealing build, the frame and components and price and timeless style. 😀
Great Vid!
Would love to see what the best bike you could get for say £1000 / $1200 - is better to go cheap second hand and upgrade, or straight second hand on the price limit, or new?
lol this guy spent 500 on a bike, then replaced the wheels, tires, group set, stem, handlebars and saddle. He paid 500 pounds for an old aluminum frame and fork.
and he's saying buying a new bike is stupid. nope, he's stupid. hahaha
What's the toll cost for this old bike, so we can see the comparison against a new bike from a main player... 2021 I got mech 105 full carbon canyon 2K and so far really enjoying it. Would I like new wheels and electronic gearing .... Yes , but at what cost ?
I have a 2012 year old Synapse, which I love. I see no reason to upgrade. I really don't think I can get anything other than 25mm tires on my Synapse. I only have about 3mm of space on each side of the tire on the front, and about 4mm on the rear. Evidence is showing wider tires are faster, and here's the problem. Will the available tire selection for 25mm tires dwindle to a handful of choices in 3-5 years, due to a decrease in demand? Great video, but I personally would be very cautious about buying a used road bike. I suspect if your bike can accept 28mm tires, you're good for a while. But if your bike can only accept 25mm or 23mm tires, I'm not so sure.
As long as you’re not racing for money better tire clearance is the only rational reason to upgrade to a new bike.
25mm tyres are faster than wider ones.
Don't try the 2018 Synapse then? ;)
The idea is similar to home computers in the 1980s. Upgrade, upgrade, upgrade. Wait, it's cheaper to get better by buying new. I wanted thru-hub, 29er disc brakes. Now your looking for all that in a used bike? Get what you want, don't worry whether it's a new or used bike. Both ways have it's pros & cons.
What year is this CAAD12 frameset?
I bought a 2015 colossal ti frame and rebuilt it with a 105 groupset and some carbon components.
It had some similar issues with the disc mounts. IS mount on the rear and Post mount on the fork, so i swapped the fork for an enve fork to get flat mount.
No way, that was only for fun.
I buying old steel frames and building them up, mostly with used parts expect cassettes, cables, chains and so on. My last project was a Spezi Allez Sprint (rim) for around 500€. In winter I got some cheap and good stuff like Campa Zonda wheels (250€), new cassette and chain, new bearings, cables and so on. In the end I paid around 1100€ for a 8 Kg bike (size XL).
It´s a lot of fun and thrill. It´s kicking me more than buying a new one. But 2,5k is way to much for this odd standards, better for old rim break stuff.
This video summarises the madness of the cycling industry quite well - endless standards, mismatches, and lots of money needed to make it all working properly.... Unless the groupset and the wheels were faulty on the bike when you bought it, is there a reason they were changed? Spending twice the cost of the bike on upgrades completely negates the budget used bike tag....
I had a caad10 excellent race bikes! For longer days in the saddle I prefer something more hefty a heavier bike will be more comfy in the long run.
The used market around here is a little different. Any road bike with disc brakes seems to be selling in the $1,000+ range.
I have those DTswiss R470 wheels and they aren't great. My guess is that that the HUNT's are better. I also typically have to change the stock components to get to achieve the right fit. Baseline cost of a $2300 bike is almost always hundreds more at least for me. Great vid!
I have gone to a 38cm handlebar width too and I feel that it helps especially in headwinds
My 2023 trek emonda alr5 seems pretty good for the dollar . Upgraded tires .it rolls very nice lol
How come not many reviews on the emonda ??
Really nice build and the parts look consistent to the frame. But if I understand you correctly, you kept from the original bike just the frame, the fork, the headset and the seatpost, everything else was replaced/upgraded. I beg the question if it is not possible to find a naked frame with fork, plus seatpost and headset for the price you payed for the bike, brand new and of a decent quality. Not that anything is wrong with the CAAD 12, excellent bike, but with a used bike there is always the risk of hidden damages which may eventually ruin the whole build.
A quick search on eBay reveals a frame (in the wrong size) is £500 on its own, and complete bikes are going for as much as £2000. That's not factoring in the travel costs of trying to find a second hand bike that is local to you. I'm not saying this is perfect and everyone should do it, it was just meant to be a bit of fun and show what is possible but interesting to see so many negative comments attacking it. Can't please everyone I guess
@@davidarthur Most of all you were really lucky then to find this bike at such a low price in the first place. I see the point you are making, to upgrade an older bike to modern specs and see how it competes with a new bike. However, I think it was more reasonable to keep at least the wheels as a cost cutting choice.
isn't that Cannondale like $3k these days? i will be getting my butt back in shape by the summer and roaring around on an old Pinarello, can't wait
I love my 12 year old tarmac; is actually lighter and climbs better than my tarmac sl7, i find myself riding the SL4 a lot more than the SL7. will never spend money again on an overpriced and over hyped bicycle. Great video.
The SL4 wasn't overhyped or overpriced then? ;)
Smart man, a bike is more or less just a bike. One may be lighter, shift a little better, etc. but is that (minor) difference worth the price? The bike manufacturers want you to want what they are selling regardless of the price. Same thing with the auto industry. They prefer that you buy their high-end products because there is more profit for them.
This will mainly be because bikes without disc brakes are better.
My Canyon Endurace carbon frame with 105 disc at 8,2 was the heavy low price alternative in 2018. Now 8,2 kg is considered quite light for an endurance bike.
@@ketle369 My favourite bike is a hardtail mtb which weighs 9kg. When it comes to road bikes I can't bring myself to ride a bike that is close to that, road bikes should be svelte which is why mine starts with a 6 in kg... with the brakes that are fine for road.
I agree was about to buy a tarmac sl6 for 2400 but they are out of my size
Is/was this a rim braking bike converted to disc? I’m a bit confused or did I miss a bit. Didn’t think that was possible.
No. They made two versions of the bike, disc or rim. His is disc.
What did you do with you r rim brake caad12 David? You binned it for the disc one?
I dont think u need that much cash to upgrade it out. For that price u can get an emonda ALR with the same groupset all new.
Altho that caad is a really good frameset and defo worth upgrading and riding
Yeah but this is a CAAD 12 😎
@@davidarthur yes pretty hard to beat a caad frameset. But i reckon new tires, proper bar and stem and a good tuneup and deep clean will do so for under 1000€
Very nice! I have those wheels on my Planet X Pro Carbon I also picked up a Specialized Allez with 105 group set Mavic wheels (Rim Brake) for £225 :-) Maybe try swapping your Stem with a Red Shift Shockstop...
Thanks for video, How many hours approximately did the mechanic work on the bike ?
Scott probably took 3-4 hours building it with my interrupting him constantly to film and ask annoying questions ! ;)
You say the wheelset was £500, is that correct as looking at Hunt's website it looks more like £830 and that's on discount?
They're on offer down to £424 atm www.huntbikewheels.com/products/hunt-34-aero-wide-disc-wheelset
@@davidarthur thanks. I thought they were the 44 but you do say they're not later on. My Dad is on an older frame (Bianchi Infinito Disc QR) and is need of a new wheelset. Do you think these are a good shout? My alloys are rim braked Campag Zonda/Fulcrum Racing 3 and they do a comparable disc option.
@@bennp2000 only had a few rides so far but seem pretty decent for the money and with a wide range of hub options they accommodate older bikes nicely
@@davidarthurwell, if you're thinking of flogging them in the future let me know... Similar price he'd be looking at Prime 44mm carbon discs I'd suspect.
The real price advantage is between rim brake and disc brake road bikes. The adoption of disc brakes has caused the price of top level rim brake road bikes to fall a lot. This means that you can now get a top drawer road bike with rim brakes and save a fortune in the process. Those bikes ride amazingly well.
The price does add up!
Just buy a secondhand bike with the components you like already on it.
David, odd question i have a caad12 and just purchased the Hunt34 Aero wheelset off the back of your earlier video. As the rear is QR was there a specific Lock Ring that you need for the rotors, such as the HB-M8010 or hb20?
Hi, I didn't need to use any specific lock ring just the one that came with the wheels, no different to if the hub was thru-axle
Great video! Although I'd argue the bike is essentially new, the only 'old' part being the frame?
Good fun but feels extravagant for the result. The truly artful rebuild involves the judicious use of one’s parts bin with maybe buying one major bit new. Another approach would be to retain the original build, clean it thoroughly, new bar tape and rubber, maybe new bearings.
Yup you're not wrong, maybe I'll do that with my next build?
How long is the life of an aluminium frame?
I recently buy a canyon AL endurace rb 7 of second hand
ten times the life of a carbon frame
Ho David, thanks for the video, could you list the parts (with part number) used, my English is not that good to understand everything you have said. Thanks from Brazil!
Better idea, buy a pro bike from last year. They are out there, you just have to look, ask and offer. Picking up my 2023 TREK Boone 6, Ultegra di 12, Pro Vibe cockpit, tubeless training wheels (using my own race wheels), new chain, cassette, pads, rotors AND the best part - all professionally serviced, built back-up by the team mechanic for about $100 more than you spent. You gotta be ready to jump at the end of whatever race season (CX in my case). Make friends with team managers/mechanics.
great choice. I have the CAAD 10, which is a great bike.
Do you think you can go -800g - 1kilogram with further uppgrades?
Oh easily if I throw some carbon at it - wheels, handlebars, seatpost and a lighter crankset and cassette
Nice video! Good info on thru axles!
Great frame if you could get one.
Must admit been looking at CAAD 12 and 13 but can never find one in my size or coming in at a resonable price.
Folks have gotten wise to how good the Caad 10 and 12 frames are so pretty much anyone selling one knows they have a big market so very hard to find a bargain. The 13s are still considered 'new' hence them holding their value too.
REI was sold out of the CAAD 13 in the 54, 56 in 5 days.
No, its not light. Its a lead sled.
My 20 y.o. Piave weighs 5.5 kg with its pedals, & its nothing special, just a good robust setup.
Of my CAAD3s, one on full Dura Ace 7800, C24 7900, one on full Ultegra 6600, C24 9100, both come in under 6 kg.
90s lugged Steel OK?
I bought a 2005 trek sl 1000 and I’m just riding this until I can save up for something. Currently looking at trek emonda alr. Bikes are unbelievably expensive
30 mm fits on a Caad 12 is that true ?
Wanted to try, got a Caad 12 disc and never thought it would fit.
Yes, but caution is advised as the video shows the front is very close to the fork brake hose guide
I was more worried about the rear 😅
I have a supersix evo disc 2nd gen fork and it seems wider at the front than the caad 12 fork, you currently have.
Video about my bike (40 seconds) available on my channel.
@@davidarthurthanks for the answer 😊
There's more room at the front and 30 fits. At the rear it is tight as the chainstays run straight. You woud need a very well built wheel with perfect dishing and lateral true and depending on rider weight you might get some rub out of the saddle.
@@davidarthur True, but I have the 2019 model which has the updated fork, with internal brake cable and thru axle, so both problems solved. I'd imagine the 30mm would hit the chain stays under load...