LR3 and Discovery 3 suspension air dryer dessicant change 4K
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- Опубліковано 4 бер 2021
- How to change the desiccant on the Air Dryer on a Land Rover LR3 and Discovery 3 DIY.
how to make air Suspension service LR3 and discovery 3 compressor.
How to change the water separator desiccant on the air dryer on a Land Rover DIY
Kit used is bought on amazon:
Unity Automotive 24-0F0000 Air Compressor Dryer Rebuilt Kit
Link: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01...
enjoy, its an easy job.
best regards Rene
What was is really looks like Zeolite (or called molecular sieve). It has 3 Angstrom pores, allowing it to absorb water. When it's saturated, the way to get the water out is put it in the oven then it's reusable, no need to change it
Thanks for commenting - great tip, I find that the process works, over time not 100% reversible, however the price for new ones were kind of cheap from Amazon so I thought I would change it instead. But indeed baking them in a low heated or little more than Luke warm oven will work wonders.
Drive safely
Best regards Rene
Your video is really great Rene, congrats. At first I was wanting to remove my compressor totally to rebuild the piston and swap a new air dryer. I just ordered a new air dryer, still waiting for it. After watching your video, a new idea come to my mind, now I think I can replace the air dryer without the need to remove the compressor, what do you think? I need only to disconnect two air lines on the air dryer cap, unscrew one bolt and rotate the air dryer to remove it, and then install the new one. What do you think? I am driving the car I think for more than a year with the orange light on the dashboard and I wanting to make the swap as soon as it arrives, just to avoid the compressor to burn out. My truck is a 2009 LR3, thanks a lot my friend
Thank you so much for watching and commenting. I am so happy you could use the content of the video. I must say that I am about to change the desiccant again in the near future on mine. It an easy fix and works wonders on the suspension or at least the warning lights associated with this problem, depending on if you are in cold or hot and humid environments. Changing the desiccant is not a complete science but it will save you the money on a compressor at a later stage and could be worth it. It also relatively small amount of time invested and you will enjoy it for some years again.
Drive safely, best regards Rene
Just taking the relay out holds the car, no need to pull all the fuses too. Good stuff tho!
Thanks for commenting, and thank you, I just wanted to make sure no-one with another or newer car did have any safety issues with this. This suspension is somewhat tricky, and lives its own life once in a while, so I pulled both👍👍. Thank you for the hint though, and I hope there will be a few who will try this out for themselves ...
have a great weekend..
best regards
Rene
my 2006 L320 has started with the 'normal ride height only' message - might try this before i consider swapping out the compressor....really good video thanks for uploading - where would i find the kit in the UK?....
Thank you for watching and commenting, I am glad you could use it. And yes your compressor could be suffocating and not be able to lift and produce enough air within the timeframe to rise the car and then it simply times out.
I bought the kit easy on Amazon, and I believe you can order it on Amazon UK as well. Less than 20 GBP
Drive safely, best regards Rene
Learn about the system before working on it.
Removing the compressor does not cause the car to lower. Absolutely no need to remove any fuses or the relay.
You could put an axle stand under the chassis rail if you think it might lower, but 1. It won''t, and 2. It won't.
You have an AMK compressor on an early D3, this means it's been replaced and it's done well, as most don't last more than 5 years, you must live in a really dry part of the world. I've poured water out of driers before now.
Only early D3 have the sealing bolt on the front of the tank, later models do not have this. Taking the air out of the tank has no effect on the compressor as there is a valve between the tank and the compressor.
Did you take the pressure out of the air springs? there's 14 bar in them, but again there are valves in between them and the tank.
Why are you working with it all hanging in the car? 1 push fit pipe and a the exhaust valve plug to undo and do it on the bench. Same with the compressor, 1 more bolt, 1 plug and 2 pipes to remove and its all on the bench. Then you could do a proper recondition job.
When you say you now don't have pressure in the system, you do, but only 2 to 4 bar in the gallery and 14 bar in the air bags.
Did you take the blue cup out of the drier? If not you left dust in there.
Sorry chap, but you only did half the job, and badly at that.
I've been reconning compressors for the past 6 years, I do know a bit about them and the system.
Thanks for watching and commenting. That was a lot, but thank you. To start with I live in a very wet area next to the Everglades, and if you watch some of the other videos you will, be surprised how much water and wetness this LR3 is enduring. The fuse and relay always goes out before servicing the air suspension, for safety reasons, since auto leveling system is still active and is a known fact that it will lower, you just don’t know when, and therefore it could cause a potential danger. I did not take the pressure out of air springs, it not necessary since there is a block valve separating them from front to back and also from compressor, however deplete the reservoir, for several other reasons as well.
I do know a lot about the systems, and think we are a lot of drivers in the world who have benefited from this video, and making it easy, without removal is in my opinion better. It’s proven to work and still works, today.
With your sublime expertise of five years working on this, you are more than welcome to enrich our lives with a comprehensive video, we could enjoy, and learn from.
You are entitled to your opinion, but that doesn’t mean that we agree.
Drive safely
Best regards
Rene
@@techtips101 hey buddy!! I’ve read your comment! I’ve recently trying replacing the air compressor Arnott brand the one I took it off it’s Dunlop brand! Compressor runs just fine but air dryer completely done! Look like water got sucked into! Because I was stuck in the deep water pond! So now when I plugged in the new Arnott brand compressor it runs fill the air tank but front end won’t go up! Rear end been stuck in extended mode! Codes I get on my gap tool is C1A13-64 and C1A36-01! If you could help me with this I would greatly appreciate you man!! Someone tells me I’ve to program new compressor after installing it? Is that true?
Thanks for watching - to your problem :) it could be some different issues, but since you were stuck in water and mud it sounds like a block valve failure, and most likely due to water, or foreign object intrusion. The valves get stuck in position. You may actually clean out the entire hose system and probably drain the airreservoir as well, just in case. New block valves can be ordered on Amazon for 50$ and I think that will cure your problem.
Let us know how it goes.
Drive safely, best regards Rene.
@@techtips101 thanks a lot chief 🙏🙏
Anyone know how much it needs? Would putting to much cause stress on the compressors? I've opened one up that had half full and another almost all full. The all full one had trouble venting gallery but I don't know if that's a separate issue.
Thanks for commenting and watching - I always fill mine up and make sure to replace or clean the filter inside too. I have had no issues since this practice so I would assume you could do the same.
I am about to change mine again, and will try an experiment and let you know .
Drive safely, best regards Rene
Hi Rene. What was the special wrench for? Was there a wire in the way?
Thanks for commenting, and watching.
The special wrench is only special since it is open in the wrench area to enable a wire or pneumatic line to be tightened without being destroyed. You can buy them in the local shop or auto store and it won’t destroy your wire or pneumatic line.
Hope that helps.
Drive safely
Best regards
Rene Clausen
The symbol that comes up on the dash is it just related to that part
Thanks for commenting and watching, no this symbol comes up for a lot of suspension reasons. The computer detects something wrong with the system heightening or lowering, compressor run time too long, leaks in one of the bags on suspension strut, leak or malfunction of air block valves front or rear or if this air dryer is dirty or not malfunctioning so the compressor cannot breathe air for the system, resulting in the light to come on. If the light comes on and is associated with the HDC fault it most likely could be your battery which is weak.
I hope that helps, there might be more malfunctions causing this, however this is what I remember of the top of my head.
Drive safely
Best regards Rene
My pump works but there's no power come Ino power coming from the fuse block I'm kind of lost I don't think it's my right height sensors I don't know what to do
Thanks for commenting and thanks for watching. Your problem could very likely be one of the relays in your fuse box. Check your fuses- and if they are all good, then swap the relay’s around and see if it works. It is most likely the relay. I believe the window heat relay is the same so you can swap with that and test it.
I hope that helps and will solve your issue.
Have a wonderful day
Best regards
René
Hi Rene, I've asked opinions in other videos, no reply though.So I'm asking your opinion now.My truck (2006 lr3) had a condition since I bought it- it would go down gradually to bumpstop height after 3 or 4 days of no use. After taking the suspension fuse and relay off, it would go down just in the front equally on both sides. I ruled out air strut leaks using soap water. It left me with the impression that it's got to be the front valve block. I changed that with a non OEM one. Now that same thing is happening, except within a few hours rather than 3 or 4 days.So , either the new valve block I bought is defective or could it be something else? Does the middle valve block have anything to do with the front sagging but not the rear? Before I buy a new OEM valve block , I would like to hear what you think. By the way I would try to re-install back the original one, except I damaged it when trying to refurbish it with new O rings. The air pump works fine as it should, by the way. Thank you.
Thanks for watching, and commenting.
I know and feel your frustration, since this can be a rather challenging symptom to treat. Now the OEM block valve can easily be faulty, I have had that happen to me, and that is the worst since you think you outrage that as a possibility. If the valve is healthy, and the front air shocks are not leaking there should be no problem at all. The feeder line comes from the compressor, and fills up the reservoir, which in turn keeps the car in level with the residual air. now in your case, I would suspect that block valve being faulty especially if it is ordered from the internet. Your front shocks if they are closing up on 80-100 miles they do get worn out by debris, which is hard to see, where the metal meets the cushion, and over time there will be a leak performing. This leak might not be one you will discover with water and soap, simply too small. The next cause I would check is: the block valve fittings ( use soap here as well) since they are so easy to fit wrongly into the plastic wrinkles and thus creating a leak, most likely the feeder line.
if you google this link it will give you an abbreviated diagram that is helpful - sorry I cannot upload it here -
images.app.goo.gl/YkAxdvH4KJrTCsoh8
I hope this will help you, and get rid of the problem.
drive safely,
best regards
Rene
@@techtips101 Thanks for replying Rene. I've ordered an original, in the box front valve. Let's see how that works. If it doesn't, I must assume there is a problem with the air line, possibly the one that feeds the air valve, since when the fuse is in ALL 4 sides come down equally as the system adjust the shocks pressure. When the fuse is out ,only the front end goes down, again, EQUALLY. I haven't open the compressor area yet, that could also be where the leak is ( from that side of the line as it goes to the front valve). I am just hoping it's the front valve (I'm a dumb optimist) since I've already spend close to $300 on them.
Anyway, I'll keep you posted as it might help other LR3 owners with similar problem
@@notalegalalien any update??
@@deedub429 Still holding air as it should. Now the back is coming down , not as fast as the front was though. Next I will replace the back valve. My truck has over 130k miles, so I think is a normal failure after all. If I set it to off road height and pull the fuse it remains up, so I'm quite sure is the valve going bad.
Replaced the back suspension valve. Put in off-road height, jacked up the truck as much as safely (you going to need as much clearence as possible), remove the driver's side back wheel and hope you have small hands.I did the whole work from the wheel side of the truck, hard but doable if you have a lot of patience.Took about 2 hours. The hardest part is screwing the tubes back in with just one hand, believe me not much room in there. Its been 3 days today and all 4 wheels are mantaining their height. Total cost front and back about $350 with new real OEM parts.
On really cold days my compressor doesn’t turn on and then I get a suspension fault….no that it’s warmer I still get a fault sometimes but the compressor does turn on. I swapped out the compressor 3 years ago so I’m not sure it’s the compressor. Will changing the disicant help my situation?
Thank you for commenting and watching.
Yes I think that it would help you situation since it not only keeps the dust and dirt out but more essential the water out. It could sound like you have water in the system, so changing the desiccant would be a good idea 👍.
The second option is the block valves don’t like water droplets either. But start with the desiccant and the filter there it’s a cheap repair.
Beware if the compressor can’t breathe, through the filter, it can overheat and break, then it won’t run no more, hopefully it will just stop running till the desiccant and filter is changed.
Hope that helps. And it does not take long to do either.
Drive safe
Best regards
Rene.
@@techtips101 thank you for the reply. I’ll give it a shot.
I am looking for the Kit on Amazon and I cannot find the one that you show in the Video. Could you please provide a link?
@@techtips101
My bad, just found it in your description! Cheers!
My compressor sounds a tad loud, any one know how to simply "tighten it up"?
ok If you haven't changed the dessicat you could be suffocating the compressor, which type of compressor is it ?
Brgds Rene
@@techtips101
Thankyou for the reply,
I'm not sure which compressor it is, I just purchased the rover, it's a 2007 lr3...but I'm not sure about the compressor, it seems to work great, just a tad loud, and read that it can be tightened...
Not sure if that's true or not?
hm I do not know if you can and what is wrong but you can always take the cover off and see for yourself. If it works I probably wouldn't touch it, unless you want to change the dessicant
best regards
Rene
How did you know the dryer kit was for the AMK compressor? I have never been able to find one for the AMK except on ebay from England. Most are for Hitachi compressors. Unfortunately its out of stock too.
I did not know and it probably wasn't only for the AMK so I tried it out and it fits - I saved my old desiccant, just in case it wouldn't work but it does. The pads are slightly thicker and slightly wider, however when they are in place it works almost perfect. I thought about cutting it to a 100 percent fit but its not necessary. The kit is an allround/average refurbishing kit and it works 👍. Easy to install too and no need to take out the compressor assembly at all.
hope that helps,
best regards Rene
@@techtips101 thank you Rene for the reply. I am having the exact same issue with my 06 HSE. I removed the compressor once and emptied the desiccant out and attempted to dry them out in the oven. Didnt really work. Now I can only hope these come back in stock on Amazon. Thanks for posting the videos and keep them coming! Cheers
You are welcome. You might even be able to use the desiccant from a hitachi air dryer and then use the original metal plates from your own and filter from the hitachi, just modified in diameter. The desiccant is most likely the same.
👍👍
Brgds René
@ Jeffrey Wheeler, here is a desiccant that will work with your Land Rover - in the comments section one has already tried it - it might work for you too 👍👍 22 usd.
here is the link :
www.amazon.com/ATD-Tools-7886-Replacement-Desiccant/dp/B000OUXA2Q/ref=sr_1_29?crid=21YA2HJLRNDDI&dchild=1&keywords=desiccant+dryer&qid=1615077116&s=automotive&sprefix=Desiccant%2Cautomotive%2C182&sr=1-29#customerReviews
best regards Rene
@ Jeffrey Wheeler, let me know how it all went :) 👍👍 should be easier for you 👍