OMG this video / instructions are so awesome, I feel confident I could rebuild our rotting pergola myself - the previous owner built it using 'indoor' timber.😬
Very impressive, precise, easy to follow, I'm not watching the Bunnings one anymore as they just rush it through in 3 minutes for every DIY videos while you're spending 30 minutes to teach us, well done.
You are heaven sent!!! me and my husband want to do a pergola that goes attached to our house :) we have absolutely no experience doing these things, but seeing you do it makes me confident. I can see us watching this video for reference like 100000 times when we get to it! lol :D thank you!!!
Excellent video. Hats off to eyeballing the spade bit vertically through the length of that beam - if that had been me it would have come out the side of the beam part way through! Find it so difficult drilling perfectly plumb.
Seams like a very janky way of attaching the beam to the post with the epoxy all-thread. I'm doing a similar size Pergola over my deck. But I'm using 135mm posts, and rebating the 65mm beam into the post. I guess you can't really do that when the post is 90mm and the beam is 65mm wide.
Excellent détailled présentation step by step. All comments clearly transmitted, even for à french canadian. Need just to adapt for frost line . thanks Yves harvey
"Joist hangers look absolutely terrible" - well said! Very good video, best I've seen on the subject; great workmanship. Greetings from across the ditch.
Beautiful job, nice aesthetic detail in both the project and production. Wish we had materials readily available here in US , such as exterior, treated, laminated post. I've been agonizing about ripping out box store 4x4s that look more like 16' cork screws after three years.
I love your videos! You show and explain every step very clearly. Useful tips too. Easy to understand and follow. I get really inspired to start building when I watch these. It's a shame that the person who built the pergola on the house I bought didn't watch this video first. I've got to get out there and do some reno's on it. It's a shoddy mess, unlike the lovely one you just built.
Good vid. I work from the top down/temp props for front beam/ put posts in last. Working out rafter spacing on ribbon ( pitch) plate 5.753 m minus rafter thickness ,then divide by 6 spaces. That still gets centre to centre but it gets one side of each rafter. So it's then just a mark then a cross , mark and a cross and so on. Check if the house wall ( where the beam starts from) is plumb. Don't assume it's plumb . If it's 5mm away ,then add 5mm to beam length. I would probably leave the beam a bit long and cut it off up there. I normally rebate the posts to fit to the beam and use 2 cup head bolts through beam to post. With the roof battens, I also shoot them to the rafters like you do but as a high wind will lift up the weakest part, I drive in 1 long bugle to each intersection. If it's only shot with 2 nails per intersection, the battens will twist in time. If I ever do a pergola with rafters going over the top of the beam and overhanging , I weld up a special U shape shoe the slips onto the underside of rafter and has a welded down tab to screw 2 teks into beam and on the U shaped bit, I screw 2 teks into the rafter.I do that to every second rafter.That's for the reason of high winds.I don't like to use the pryda triple grips because I think they look ub\gly.Thats another reason I weld up my own design ( less ugly and very effective. If I put polycarbonate roof sheet up, I install folded metal sheet that caps over the top face of the batten ( width of batten with 10mm down folds.) Reason for that is you can only paint the timber once before the sheeting is installed and it doesn't take long for the sun to do it's work and wear out the paint. The metal flashing will protect the timber way longer than the paint will. Lastly, when I do end flashings to each end of an iron roofed pergola/ verandah, the standard way to finish the flashing, is to do a 10mm fold back in to touch the timber rafter. While it looks neat, the rafter will require replacing in a number of years. The alternative is to do the 10mm fold outwards. It might not look as pretty.( still looks okay though) but the rafter will last many times more years than the other method because water will be deflected away from the rafter. That's either from rain or cold , frosty, icy mornings. :)
Such great detailed explanations as you went, good pace, and easy to understand. I’m curious why you didn’t check your beam onto the posts instead of looping and sitting right on top? I felt the extra fastening would improve the join strength and still look good when finished. Thanks for sharing!
I love your channel. It is very clear and professional. I'm from Brazil and I hope to travel to improve my English conversation and get to know some professionals from the construction field. #Construction #TEAM = Together Everyone Achieves More
After moving back to NZ after building in Perth Aust, I can't believe the backward way builders work here! The best and most efficient way is to cut out and prop your pergola / Verandah in the air. Set the pitch angle and or height, then when this is square and level you measure or scribe the post and cut the length prior to bolting or concreting in place.we would do this even with heavy laminated hardwood beams or steel frames.
I agree Mike. Installing the posts cut to the correct length (because this part can be done horizontally at ground level on a drop or slide saw) is better than cutting freehand with the circular saw at height and on the side.. too much room for error.
EXcellent advice & you are very skillful, but in my opinion the ccorrugations look very dated now.. any reason why you didn't use flat twin wall sheeting ?
Cheers! You can find all these details here: www.mitre10.co.nz/guides-and-advice/guide/how-to-build-a-pergola-on-to-a-house (link also in description) ^Cam
Hey Mr Mitre, i have seen most of your videos. But in this video HOW IN THE WORLD can you achieve drilling that DEEP hole using the spade ? I mean what do you do to NOT emerge out of the side of the bean instead of the bottom to insert that threaded rod ? Please share that wisdom !. Dino from Curacao
Postion the beam next to the post and/or clamp a square to the beam next to the hole use them as a guide to drilling vertically. Checking from one side then the other side (ie at 90 degrees to view the two planes) frequently as you go to ensure you haven't gone off at and angle. With care it's not as hard as you might think. Also you can go half way through and then turn the beam over and start from the other side and meet in the middle. Use a bit that's a couple of mm (maybe 1/8th") bigger than the bolt diameter so there's enough play in the hole diameter to ensure the bolt will still fit even though likely the holes won't meet up perfectly. Practice on an offcut of wood if you're not confident. No magic required! : )
I like it, the step by step instruction is well explained and the job is great, but will this polycarbonate roofing stands the Canadian winter ? I'll like to build one myself.
It would be hard to know, because our winter seasons in NZ are nothing compared to what it would be like in Canada particularly snow conditions. However, wind, rain and hail, these are no problem for polycarbonate roofs.
Hi, Really nice and detailed video. I am planning to build one "Lean-to-Pergola" attached to my house on the deck. Instead of digging beam, can I make it sit on the deck board ? Expected size would be W=7mtr : H=4mtrs. Please suggest.
OK, so what about one that' positione at the END of a 7.5M wide building, that is no more than 4M to the BASE of a very high concrete wall, on top of which is an extra height corrugated iron rence? Making the pad at the end of the house 4x 7.5 = 30sq M exactly. The PERGOLA would thus be UNDER the height of the top of the fence, (which borders a road/street) and thus is thoroughly inside the confines of the property at the end of the house, meaning it's height "above" any existing structure would be a MINUS figure, so could it therefore butt hard up against the base of the concrete wall itself? The top of the wall "leans towards the road, as it is NOT a parallel structure, but wider at it's base and thinner at the top of the concrete which is a minimum (up there) of 150mm on top of which sits a 125mm thick post and corrugated iron fence. The concrete pad (as that's all that grows there) is fully from the house to the base of the concrete, (4M) with a faint fall towards the wall, so that rain/snow etc cannot drain towards the house, but away from it, to then run down along a gutter at the wall, before draining down the driveway away from the wall, past the house, into the back garden where it soaks in. We also get rain draining in from the street, to join at the end of the wall. As an aside, as I am now in a wheelchair, so we "park" the car such that I can transfer from the car into the house (as easily as possible with one leg), to get into my "chair" inside the door. Oh and the view is irrelevant as there is a dirty great MOUNTAIN directly across the road from the house so sunlight/sky views aren't all that great after 4pm. So having a pergola "blocking" that view is also irrelevant. Nothing on the hill, except scrubby bushes, lots of rabbits, a few tame and stray cats and farmed GOATS, yeah they run goats on there as it's too steep for anything else. Hence why we wanted a pergola (roofed with clearlight) to avoid the adverse weather when I go to & from the car/wheelchair. Thus - what's your view? 30square meters at the maximum, footed directly onto an existing pad, Oh and yes, we are resident in the best part of NZ - at it's mainland center.
WARNING: that sika epoxy anchoring can 'spit' towards your face when you rod the hole so wear eye protection. it's on the instructions so it's not a hugedeal they didn't mention it. great video as usual from mitre 10/this bloke. (please, no jokes about spit coming on your face when you rod holes)
I love this guy: the she'll be right kiwi attitude shines right through. Next video - "How to construct your own Ballistic Missile Nuclear Submarine | Mitre 10 Easy As"
Good spot! The grooves are usually meant to go underneath for airflow and drainage, but some install them up for grip. Depends on the design and preference. ^Cam
the raffters would be better if they were notched and housed into the wall plate, the straps will only hold the two together but the weight of the raffter will not be supported correctly and joint will be weak.
kia ora, when you were figuring out where to cut the post opposite the stairs you got your level line from under the rafter and then took off your 193mm off that line which would have actually made the post around 145mm shorter than it should have been!!
As we can not see your specific situation, I would recommend getting a licenced building practitioner’s (LBP) advice on this. However, it’s not generally recommended. ^Matt
That timber looks perfect with hardly if any knots(that i can see) in any of the lengths.After a visit to a local Mitre 10 failed to find any machined lengths that weren't riddled with knots,alright if the structure is hidden, but not for a pergola, thanks .....very disappointing.
Your videos are very good. Why don't you put a description on your Channel Description? I'd will help people to get to know your channel even more. Thank you!
Watched this about 60 odd times before & during my DIY pergola build. Turned out perfectly, appreciate the clear instructions. No muss, no fuss
Chuffed as to hear this Jordan, bet it looks amazing! ^Cam
Ни одного лишнего движения, все четко , никакой суеты.
This host is great, straight to the point and no fluff, great work.
OMG this video / instructions are so awesome, I feel confident I could rebuild our rotting pergola myself - the previous owner built it using 'indoor' timber.😬
Very impressive, precise, easy to follow, I'm not watching the Bunnings one anymore as they just rush it through in 3 minutes for every DIY videos while you're spending 30 minutes to teach us, well done.
Just bought a new home, and you are officially my new favourite person 🙂
Love that the local guidelines are mentioned. Many people forget about mentioning this.
I'm a career carpenter and the best part of this video is hearing him talk and all the different terms for common building things!
You are heaven sent!!! me and my husband want to do a pergola that goes attached to our house :) we have absolutely no experience doing these things, but seeing you do it makes me confident. I can see us watching this video for reference like 100000 times when we get to it! lol :D thank you!!!
You can do it! Excited for your project, you'll do amazing! ^Cam
Not the most complicated job in the world but you can see how good of a chippy this bloke is by the way he goes about it. Very professional Good vid.
Cheers Rich 👍
Excellent video. Hats off to eyeballing the spade bit vertically through the length of that beam - if that had been me it would have come out the side of the beam part way through! Find it so difficult drilling perfectly plumb.
Thanks heaps for watching, stoked you enjoyed it! ^Cam
Seams like a very janky way of attaching the beam to the post with the epoxy all-thread.
I'm doing a similar size Pergola over my deck. But I'm using 135mm posts, and rebating the 65mm beam into the post. I guess you can't really do that when the post is 90mm and the beam is 65mm wide.
This guy is great! Simple and straight up directions and local knowledge
Excellent détailled présentation step by step. All comments clearly transmitted, even for à french canadian. Need just to adapt for frost line . thanks Yves harvey
Thanks for your feedback Yves, we really appreciate it 👍 ^Billie
Soon I'll be a master builder watching all these professional DIY tutorials 😊✅️
Too right! You'll be a pro soon! ^Cam
An amazing set of instructions. Absolutely brilliantly explained. Great presenter.
So many useful tips in that video to use in smaller jobs as well. Nicely filmed and edited too. Thanks
Maria Hippach
Maria Hippach '
Maria Hippach
Maria H Thanks! Let me know if anything you guys want me to make.
Maria H
"Joist hangers look absolutely terrible" - well said! Very good video, best I've seen on the subject; great workmanship. Greetings from across the ditch.
Decorative mechanical fixtures can add to the finished product. Black powder coated hangers would look sharp.
Could have just used white hammerite on them. So much easier.
Thank you for sharing . Gathered some "Handy , Dandy " Tips.. Great workmanship.
Awesome to hear, thanks heaps for watching! ^Cam
This guy is an awesome builder
By just watching your professional videos, I feel like I have done master digree in it. many thanks
Glad to hear you're finding them useful ^Charlie
Excellent video! Clear, concise, and simple to follow. THANK YOU!
Thanks so much for the support Kelly 🙌 ^Cam
I like this and it is on my Bucketlist to keep the frontdoor rainfree!
Dude! You've answered all my questions and unknowns...I now know exactly how to do build the things I like, thanks to your vids.
I love New Zealand accent with construction. Absolutely Brilliant.
Love it too mate. Just not sure if he says "rodeo" or "radio" all the time? Cheers from Czech Republic :)
Karel Keklak I’m from New Zealand he’s saying righty oh
@@kennethscharvi8577 Thanks mate. I lived in NZ for about a year, but it has been while since then. Love Kiwi accent, sweet as.
Until he says "deck"
Love your New Zealand Mitre 10 DIY shows.
Thank you Steve for the feedback - appreciate it mate.
Thank you for using the metric system!
Beautiful job, nice aesthetic detail in both the project and production. Wish we had materials readily available here in US , such as exterior, treated, laminated post. I've been agonizing about ripping out box store 4x4s that look more like 16' cork screws after three years.
Like the way you explain and keep it simple
Well explained and clear construction,well done!
Cheers! ^Matt
Is that galvanised strapping sufficient fixing for the downward force and weight of rafters?
I love your videos! You show and explain every step very clearly. Useful tips too. Easy to understand and follow. I get really inspired to start building when I watch these. It's a shame that the person who built the pergola on the house I bought didn't watch this video first. I've got to get out there and do some reno's on it. It's a shoddy mess, unlike the lovely one you just built.
Well done brotha, cheers from NYC 🔨‼️
Good vid. I work from the top down/temp props for front beam/ put posts in last. Working out rafter spacing on ribbon ( pitch) plate 5.753 m minus rafter thickness ,then divide by 6 spaces. That still gets centre to centre but it gets one side of each rafter. So it's then just a mark then a cross , mark and a cross and so on. Check if the house wall ( where the beam starts from) is plumb. Don't assume it's plumb . If it's 5mm away ,then add 5mm to beam length. I would probably leave the beam a bit long and cut it off up there. I normally rebate the posts to fit to the beam and use 2 cup head bolts through beam to post. With the roof battens, I also shoot them to the rafters like you do but as a high wind will lift up the weakest part, I drive in 1 long bugle to each intersection. If it's only shot with 2 nails per intersection, the battens will twist in time. If I ever do a pergola with rafters going over the top of the beam and overhanging , I weld up a special U shape shoe the slips onto the underside of rafter and has a welded down tab to screw 2 teks into beam and on the U shaped bit, I screw 2 teks into the rafter.I do that to every second rafter.That's for the reason of high winds.I don't like to use the pryda triple grips because I think they look ub\gly.Thats another reason I weld up my own design ( less ugly and very effective. If I put polycarbonate roof sheet up, I install folded metal sheet that caps over the top face of the batten ( width of batten with 10mm down folds.) Reason for that is you can only paint the timber once before the sheeting is installed and it doesn't take long for the sun to do it's work and wear out the paint. The metal flashing will protect the timber way longer than the paint will. Lastly, when I do end flashings to each end of an iron roofed pergola/ verandah, the standard way to finish the flashing, is to do a 10mm fold back in to touch the timber rafter. While it looks neat, the rafter will require replacing in a number of years. The alternative is to do the 10mm fold outwards. It might not look as pretty.( still looks okay though) but the rafter will last many times more years than the other method because water will be deflected away from the rafter. That's either from rain or cold , frosty, icy mornings. :)
Such great detailed explanations as you went, good pace, and easy to understand.
I’m curious why you didn’t check your beam onto the posts instead of looping and sitting right on top? I felt the extra fastening would improve the join strength and still look good when finished.
Thanks for sharing!
Thank you for all the information you provided. I am going to build my own now
Thanks to you. 👏
Good stuff! Can't wait to hear how you get on ^Matt
I love your channel.
It is very clear and professional.
I'm from Brazil and I hope to travel to improve my English conversation and get to know some professionals from the construction field.
#Construction #TEAM = Together Everyone Achieves More
who watched the whole thing and still called a professional out to do it?
wahh Taoo uui
😂😂
LOL
Yup!
@@joshorellana5980 x de
Vdd
utterly beautiful work, such professionalism. Can you please do my pergola?
I just learnt some carpentry skills, thank you.
George Alokaka 0bào 00 kywws a0
Love the constant 'righty O'. Hopefully that's all I'll be saying on my own project.
Fingers crossed it all goes smoothly for you! ^Rhi
Rightyo!
Awesome clip - handy tips for the novice, thanks heaps mitre 10!
After moving back to NZ after building in Perth Aust, I can't believe the backward way builders work here! The best and most efficient way is to cut out and prop your pergola / Verandah in the air. Set the pitch angle and or height, then when this is square and level you measure or scribe the post and cut the length prior to bolting or concreting in place.we would do this even with heavy laminated hardwood beams or steel frames.
nz rockdj sorry moron,born and bred in NZ before you were out of nappies
I agree Mike. Installing the posts cut to the correct length (because this part can be done horizontally at ground level on a drop or slide saw) is better than cutting freehand with the circular saw at height and on the side.. too much room for error.
great video as always Stan is a true professional !!
Well done and clear instructions.
26:55 even if its nice and tight in middle it would be crucial to check properly that you have not bent the beam out. righty oh
very very helpful and useful tips. many thanks.
Awesome stuff mate 😎🙏🔥
I thought I was cool.....until I started watching this dude.
JTAC 81 same
I'm cooler!
We still think we are cool tho
EXcellent advice & you are very skillful, but in my opinion the ccorrugations look very dated now.. any reason why you didn't use flat twin wall sheeting ?
Marvelous, I wish I could build the same one like your yours, just wondering what size purlins and rafters you used for this pergola?
Thanks 🙏
Cheers! You can find all these details here: www.mitre10.co.nz/guides-and-advice/guide/how-to-build-a-pergola-on-to-a-house (link also in description) ^Cam
Hey, awesome video thanks for posting. I would like to know how you got the 5 degree fall.
This guy is the ultimate pro
I love the look of this house, and the pergola is the perfect tropical "cherry on top!" Is that a pet door in the French door?
yes
Put nails or screws in the section of the post that sits in the concrete. This will stop uplift and also make it more secure
This is great teaching. Thank you sir.
Hey Mr Mitre, i have seen most of your videos. But in this video HOW IN THE WORLD can you achieve drilling that DEEP hole using the spade ? I mean what do you do to NOT emerge out of the side of the bean instead of the bottom to insert that threaded rod ? Please share that wisdom !. Dino from Curacao
Postion the beam next to the post and/or clamp a square to the beam next to the hole use them as a guide to drilling vertically. Checking from one side then the other side (ie at 90 degrees to view the two planes) frequently as you go to ensure you haven't gone off at and angle. With care it's not as hard as you might think. Also you can go half way through and then turn the beam over and start from the other side and meet in the middle. Use a bit that's a couple of mm (maybe 1/8th") bigger than the bolt diameter so there's enough play in the hole diameter to ensure the bolt will still fit even though likely the holes won't meet up perfectly. Practice on an offcut of wood if you're not confident. No magic required! : )
I like it, the step by step instruction is well explained and the job is great, but will this polycarbonate roofing stands the Canadian winter ? I'll like to build one myself.
It would be hard to know, because our winter seasons in NZ are nothing compared to what it would be like in Canada particularly snow conditions. However, wind, rain and hail, these are no problem for polycarbonate roofs.
Thanks for being DIY. Help 👍 😮Great
Nice job and instructional video. 👍
noah should be proud of you👍👍🥇🥇🤘🤘
you couldn't come to Ireland and do a job... by any chance.. brilliant video... well done
Andrew Mcco
Very well put together. Really enjoyed this.
Beautifully done....excellent!!!
Anyone know if the packers need to be angled to allow for the slope in the weatherboards? Not covered in the video ...
The chisel...most underated tool.
It comes in pretty handy at times ^Matt
Love these vids! Now I need this guy help me with my DIY disasters around my house haha!
just ordered the *WoodBlueprints. Com* guide for step-by-step videos and different plans to BUILD A SHED. they have some awesome plans in there
Hi,
Really nice and detailed video.
I am planning to build one "Lean-to-Pergola" attached to my house on the deck. Instead of digging beam, can I make it sit on the deck board ? Expected size would be W=7mtr : H=4mtrs.
Please suggest.
Hey there, for individual advice on your project we'd recommend talking to the team in store - they'll be able to help with that ^Matt
Absolutely brilliant video. Thank you SO MUCH!! 🙏💥
Thank you so much for the awesome support! 🙌 ^Cam
Would it be easy to close it off with walls by adding studwall framing to the existing posts ?
Thanks so much very nice job mate 👍👍👍
OK, so what about one that' positione at the END of a 7.5M wide building, that is no more than 4M to the BASE of a very high concrete wall, on top of which is an extra height corrugated iron rence?
Making the pad at the end of the house 4x 7.5 = 30sq M exactly.
The PERGOLA would thus be UNDER the height of the top of the fence, (which borders a road/street) and thus is thoroughly inside the confines of the property at the end of the house, meaning it's height "above" any existing structure would be a MINUS figure, so could it therefore butt hard up against the base of the concrete wall itself?
The top of the wall "leans towards the road, as it is NOT a parallel structure, but wider at it's base and thinner at the top of the concrete which is a minimum (up there) of 150mm on top of which sits a 125mm thick post and corrugated iron fence.
The concrete pad (as that's all that grows there) is fully from the house to the base of the concrete, (4M) with a faint fall towards the wall, so that rain/snow etc cannot drain towards the house, but away from it, to then run down along a gutter at the wall, before draining down the driveway away from the wall, past the house, into the back garden where it soaks in.
We also get rain draining in from the street, to join at the end of the wall.
As an aside, as I am now in a wheelchair, so we "park" the car such that I can transfer from the car into the house (as easily as possible with one leg), to get into my "chair" inside the door.
Oh and the view is irrelevant as there is a dirty great MOUNTAIN directly across the road from the house so sunlight/sky views aren't all that great after 4pm.
So having a pergola "blocking" that view is also irrelevant.
Nothing on the hill, except scrubby bushes, lots of rabbits, a few tame and stray cats and farmed GOATS, yeah they run goats on there as it's too steep for anything else.
Hence why we wanted a pergola (roofed with clearlight) to avoid the adverse weather when I go to & from the car/wheelchair.
Thus - what's your view? 30square meters at the maximum, footed directly onto an existing pad,
Oh and yes, we are resident in the best part of NZ - at it's mainland center.
WARNING: that sika epoxy anchoring can 'spit' towards your face when you rod the hole so wear eye protection. it's on the instructions so it's not a hugedeal they didn't mention it. great video
as usual from mitre 10/this bloke. (please, no jokes about spit coming on your face when you rod holes)
FirstName LastNa me
FirstName LastName bbb outre outre out outre
How did he cut out the notches on the wall horizontal wall plate?
I love this guy: the she'll be right kiwi attitude shines right through. Next video - "How to construct your own Ballistic Missile Nuclear Submarine | Mitre 10 Easy As"
Does 193mm always give 5 degrees,no matter how long the rafters are?
Great video! Very well put together.
Thanks for that, Lon! ^Ryan
Are some of those Decks boards upside down as I thought the grooves are meant to be on the bottom so as water doesn’t lay under them,cheers
Good spot! The grooves are usually meant to go underneath for airflow and drainage, but some install them up for grip. Depends on the design and preference. ^Cam
@@mitre10nz cheers,we have just purchased a house and the porch has the deck boards grove side up ,might need to re do the deck
the raffters would be better if they were notched and housed into the wall plate, the straps will only hold the two together but the weight of the raffter will not be supported correctly and joint will be weak.
怎样种何首乌
00
The rafter holds itself with the 5 degree cut at each end.
Great job on all the vids, bud.
kia ora, when you were figuring out where to cut the post opposite the stairs you got your level line from under the rafter and then took off your 193mm off that line which would have actually made the post around 145mm shorter than it should have been!!
Interesting 👌.. thanks 🙏 very informative 👏
Great example of a Pergola build; will it work off the fascia?. My house is single level with French doors leading out to a concrete slab Patio.
anthony edwards it will if you screw ribbon into rafters that sit behind fascia
I like and you help me with your tips.thanks
Can you do pergola attached to roof height where gutter is? I heard fascia is not good to attach pergola to but under that is too low. Thanks
As we can not see your specific situation, I would recommend getting a licenced building practitioner’s (LBP) advice on this. However, it’s not generally recommended. ^Matt
Love all your videos very educational
Beautiful work. Guess it doesn't rain much there though.
Great video show
Great videos guys. Thank you
THANK for Mitre 10 that video !
That timber looks perfect with hardly if any knots(that i can see) in any of the lengths.After a visit to a local Mitre 10 failed to find any machined lengths that weren't riddled with knots,alright if the structure is hidden, but not for a pergola, thanks .....very disappointing.
Excellent Vid
Your videos are very good.
Why don't you put a description on your Channel Description? I'd will help people to get to know your channel even more.
Thank you!
Can anybody tell me what kind of wood he's using? I'm trying to look for something I can use outdoors with a smooth finish.
awesome add on, I recently did something similar
Awesome! Thanks for your feedback 👍 ^Billie
This is awesome one question
Can we add a small gutter and down spot?
Perfect job.
You're a legend. cheers!
Good explanation
Cheers 👍 ^Billie
Really good work! Congrats!
Hello what size of timber do you use please ? Is it 50x100 mm? Thank you in advance
I love it very clean job and nice looking 👌