3 Link Suspension is ALMOST COMPLETE!
Вставка
- Опубліковано 13 лют 2024
- Today we put real links in the 1UZ 1989 Toyota Pickup 3 link solid axle swap project! Tackle the axle side panhard bar and encounter a whole new issue!
Support Dirt Garage by purchasing our Merch! - www.dirtgarage.ca
Brought to you by @ Alpine Toyota - alpinetoyota.com
10% OFF YES WELDERS: yeswelder.com/?ref=z9n5g70h
10% OFF YANKUM ROPES: yankum.com/?afmc=DirtGarage
INSTAGRAM - / dirt_garage
Music Licensed @ Artlist
Find music for your videos on Artlist! artlist.io/Clinton-279876
Business contact: Dirt.Garage@outlook.com - Авто та транспорт
Glad to see you're using actual CAD to cut with the Arch-Droid, Your time with GrindHard definitely worked out. Keep up the good work, your inspiring us all to get out there and try doing more fab work!
Under rated channel. Always look forward to your content. Keep up the great work!
assuming its out so far on driver side to make equal length as the drag link? Id consider getting a scrap of 3-4" tube with thick wall, notch the frame to match and weld in a half moon to plate it. and it gives a little channel for the tracbar to clear. Sorry "panhard" haha. killer progress
I drilled and flipped my hi steer arms since they didn’t need to clear leaves anymore. Made the angles much easier to hit. Packing it all up front was a bear!
awesome work man! its looking great 😍
one idea to get around the frame would be to stick a small bend in the pan-hard bar where it would hit the frame. that way you still get the center-to-center pivot geometry that your looking for but the actual bar will clear the frame.
That’s exactly what I was thinking. As long as the pan hard bar pivot points are the same distance apart as the tie rod ends, then it’s fine to have a bend or joggle in the pan hard bar. It’ll still have the same radius as the drag link
@RyanGillespie-qd8vk yup, exactly.
The only downside i can think of to having it with a bend is that it's not as convenient to adjust the length of it...
I also fully boxed my frame side track bar mount. The first one ripped off. I would definitely suggest it. I can send you some pics if you need
makin progress :) this is coming along quite nicely
Hah! I saw you looking for a drop pitman on BCToy4wd, now I know what that was for 😆
Looking great man. Thanks for the content!
Pretty good channel... nice video
Looking good.
Can't you make a pan hard bracket that drops it down a bit lower?
Yup. Thats why I need the pitman arm. So it can match the new lowered pan hard.
That DG looks alot like DG performance logo
Never heard of them. It's just a font I found that cuts decent 🤣
@@DirtGarage What car did you install the front axle from? And the rear axle is still original or also from another car?
😂
@@user-bj2hj2ms2rIMHO, Toyota Hilux 89-91
killer deal on the shocks man! I paid more for the set of new 12" Bilstein 5125's that are on my truck right now lol...
Awesome work! But i got a question. Instead a 3 link and panhard bar. Why you don't use a reverse 4 link? So you don't have to use a panhard bar
Because packaging and you would still need a pan hard. The steering has to follow a radius, without it you will get bump steer.
How can I learn this kind of retro work
I pretty much just tought myself using the internets.
What car did you install the front axle from? And the rear axle is still original or also from another car?
Front is from 1982 Toyota Pickup. Rear is stock.
Чертежами не поделишься?
notch your frame where the panhard bar hits. then just reinforce the frame in that area
I may end up doing this too. But kinda useless to do so without trying to drop it first.
You could also bend the pan hard to clear and leave everything as it is.
@@JW-cn6op I could. Or I can just do what I'm doing 🤣
Yes whatever works, there just might be clearance issue with the draglink and tie rod using a dropped arm when compressing the drivers side if the axle moves forward at all.