I'm going to be installing 2 nutserts on my car for a Airlift kit. Airlift provided me with a "Tool" (It's really just a long bolt with a coupler on it) that looks like you made. I'm a retired Aircraft mechanic who has brain trauma. It's hard for me to understand things but you solved my problem. I didn't know if you turned and tightened the bolt or the wrench where you held the coupler. I thought you turned and tightened the bolt and held the coupler and I was right but I couldn't remember because of my brain trauma. Thank you so much. Your videos help more people than you know!
This is great! I am looking to do this to solve a problem of stripped out threads in the tailgate of my truck, where the access panel attaches to the main body of the gate. The original factory installation used self-tapping bolts going through the access panel and threading into a hole in the body of the gate on the other side. Thanks! I'll be doing this next week.
Awesome and thank you. All the reviews of the popular rivnut tools have the same issues, stripped threads on the tool. I couldn't decide if I wanted to spend that money and I saw your video. Went to the store right after and finished installing my custom bracket for my charcoal canister . Worked perfectly.💪💪💪💪💪💪💪😎😎😎 And the best part is if the bolt that I'm using to install the rivnut gets ruined it's like a 50 cent part to replace.
Many if not all the cheap installers don't use a hardened mandrel. The pressure needed to start the crush will break down the mandrel threads quickly. I find the nut bolt method works fine for most DIY projects as long as you use a grade 5 or better nut and bolt.
Very simple. Found it AFTER buying L-845 manual tool ($50 from Hanson Rivet) but specific to #10-20 bolts. App was replacing rusted out rivnuts on a hollow aluminum exterior French door. Rivnuts are used to accept/secure aluminum hurricane shutters directly on the door to protect the glass panel, removable if desired. Due to glass in the hollow door frame I found the manual tool more comfortable to control then guessing with a power tool on a fragile 'receiver'; also it was a 'one off'' job involving 12 nuts at most. Excellent video nonetheless. BTW, main difference with Hanson tool and your design is using a single bolt size and it was Allen head so either Allen wrench (supplied) or a appropriate size hex-driver and drill/driver could be used to apply crush force.
Issue with this method is the assumption you have space behind the rivet nut to allow the bolt to protrude into. The better solution is to use a similar setup, but you use a nut at the top to tighten the bolt in the rivet nut. You hold the bolt in place and turn the nut. I used this method using SS 6mm rivet nuts to fix stripped out Wayne Dalton hinges in a brand new 9000 series door that "professionals" installed use impact drivers. Every hinge (12 of them) on this door that were attached to the skin of the door were stripped out from the impact drivers.
@@d2cuadrados510 If you can try to source a hardened bolt/nut or at least grade 5 as the initial pressure to start the crush is considerable. I also use a metal dowel sleeve/washers and a touch of high pressure grease as the pressure needed will gall dry metal. Using a metal dowel brings the nut you are using for the crush off the door/workpiece so you can swing wrenches. Once the crush has started and the rivet nut has taken a bite you can finish off the crush with just the bolt and the material/hinge etc. to attach. You can feel the resistance change as the nut bottoms out. Hand tools are the best to use. Use a t-bar with socket to hold the bolt firm and apply pressure as you turn the nut with a spanner.
Nice really keen to do that one day 👍 If you've got lots to do checkout the drill version on the channel or consider getting an actual tool, vid on that also. Good luck!
Tough but can try drilling until it spins, then crush /pinch/slice (Dremel) head collar and either push into hole or pull it out. This worked on RUSTED rivnuts. Biggest problem for me was avoiding enlarging the original hole.
Its hard to tell when to stop with the impact drill because you cant feel it get tighter through the drill, I've warped a couple because I over did it with a drill.
This comment is to remind me that the "coupler" is called "long nut" in my country and will be used when I eventually visit this video again. Also I should use external tooth washer instead of a spacer between the long nut and the nutsert.
Could do, so long as you had good contact both sides would work. I found the coupler is good because you can 'push down' with the spanner to help it get that initial grip if that makes sense
@@VideoShowMeHow thanks. I think I'll try with a pair of vice grips on a socket. I'll end up loosing that coupler anyway. Either way sure beats a $50 tool
Very informative and appreciate the sharing of knowledge. Some constructive criticism for your vids. Please hold your hands still when explaining something you are holding. Shaking the objects like a salt shaker was too much. I do realize that some people really like to "talk with their hands" and you most likely are one of them. LOL Again, good job on the content!
This method didn't work for me - the rivnut just spins on its own. I can't actually see why it would work unless the hole is already a very tight fit and if the hole is already a tight fit, you don't need to use this method as you can just drive in the bolt directly and it will have the same effect. Maybe I'm missing something obvious...
Not ideal, better to use a bolt and nut, and washers, tighten nut forcing the bolt outwards, then there will be no friction stress on the rivet nut thread
Great method, but it only works if the surface is thick and/or hard enough to grab the sides of the riv nut, keeping it from turning with the bolt. I've tried this with smaller nuts through softer sheet steel and didn't get anywhere. If successfully flared, it might not set straight, either. Sometimes, one needs the force/pulling from the legit tool.
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CHECKOUT ALL RIVNUT NUTSERT VIDEOS HERE 😃 -> ua-cam.com/play/PLloptHW8MGGjPmV5K66VACn_By5rBMqyi.html
I'm going to be installing 2 nutserts on my car for a Airlift kit. Airlift provided me with a "Tool" (It's really just a long bolt with a coupler on it) that looks like you made. I'm a retired Aircraft mechanic who has brain trauma. It's hard for me to understand things but you solved my problem. I didn't know if you turned and tightened the bolt or the wrench where you held the coupler. I thought you turned and tightened the bolt and held the coupler and I was right but I couldn't remember because of my brain trauma. Thank you so much. Your videos help more people than you know!
Thank you, appreciate the comment and glad it helped 👍
You just saved me 50 bucks on a tool that I would've used a couple times. Thanks alot dude. Definitely going to subscribe.🙌🙌🙌
This is great! I am looking to do this to solve a problem of stripped out threads in the tailgate of my truck, where the access panel attaches to the main body of the gate. The original factory installation used self-tapping bolts going through the access panel and threading into a hole in the body of the gate on the other side. Thanks! I'll be doing this next week.
This is God sent!!!! Saved me from dropping serious cash on tools I would only rarely need. This is a great diy hack. Cheers mate!
Great news! Glad it helped 😁
For me it was algorithm sent.
Awesome and thank you. All the reviews of the popular rivnut tools have the same issues, stripped threads on the tool. I couldn't decide if I wanted to spend that money and I saw your video. Went to the store right after and finished installing my custom bracket for my charcoal canister . Worked perfectly.💪💪💪💪💪💪💪😎😎😎 And the best part is if the bolt that I'm using to install the rivnut gets ruined it's like a 50 cent part to replace.
Nice!!!
Many if not all the cheap installers don't use a hardened mandrel. The pressure needed to start the crush will break down the mandrel threads quickly.
I find the nut bolt method works fine for most DIY projects as long as you use a grade 5 or better nut and bolt.
Thankyou VM , simple, didactic, economical. Health for you, your family and country.
Very simple. Found it AFTER buying L-845 manual tool ($50 from Hanson Rivet) but specific to #10-20 bolts. App was replacing rusted out rivnuts on a hollow aluminum exterior French door. Rivnuts are used to accept/secure aluminum hurricane shutters directly on the door to protect the glass panel, removable if desired. Due to glass in the hollow door frame I found the manual tool more comfortable to control then guessing with a power tool on a fragile 'receiver'; also it was a 'one off'' job involving 12 nuts at most. Excellent video nonetheless. BTW, main difference with Hanson tool and your design is using a single bolt size and it was Allen head so either Allen wrench (supplied) or a appropriate size hex-driver and drill/driver could be used to apply crush force.
Thanks Stan, yes there another vid on the channel that uses the drill method :)
Absolutely brilliant. Thank you so much from the UK 🇬🇧 👍🏻
Thank-you for the comment ✌️👍
Saved me $90 mate thank you!
Great idea. Best I've seen so far.
Issue with this method is the assumption you have space behind the rivet nut to allow the bolt to protrude into.
The better solution is to use a similar setup, but you use a nut at the top to tighten the bolt in the rivet nut. You hold the bolt in place and turn the nut.
I used this method using SS 6mm rivet nuts to fix stripped out Wayne Dalton hinges in a brand new 9000 series door that "professionals" installed use impact drivers. Every hinge (12 of them) on this door that were attached to the skin of the door were stripped out from the impact drivers.
This is exactly what I needed! Thank you friend.
@@d2cuadrados510 If you can try to source a hardened bolt/nut or at least grade 5 as the initial pressure to start the crush is considerable. I also use a metal dowel sleeve/washers and a touch of high pressure grease as the pressure needed will gall dry metal. Using a metal dowel brings the nut you are using for the crush off the door/workpiece so you can swing wrenches.
Once the crush has started and the rivet nut has taken a bite you can finish off the crush with just the bolt and the material/hinge etc. to attach.
You can feel the resistance change as the nut bottoms out. Hand tools are the best to use. Use a t-bar with socket to hold the bolt firm and apply pressure as you turn the nut with a spanner.
Working on a sprinter van conversion. I was able to make this work once on a 3/8”, but not again. I need to try some more
Nice really keen to do that one day 👍 If you've got lots to do checkout the drill version on the channel or consider getting an actual tool, vid on that also. Good luck!
Thanks !
Helped out alot . Got my fenders on the Jeep with your help...
thanks .
Great🤘
I assume this method only works with aluminum or brass inserts. Would steel or stainless steel be too hard to crmp down?
@@dadanomadi834 harder yes, smaller are ok
Brilliant vid mate !
Is the rusty vise just an aesthetic preference?
😁 No, it's just a 'well experienced' vice that one
Great Ideas! For projects requiring larger fasteners and extra strength, have you tried Plus Nuts or Cross Nuts!
I think your first method is safer as it doesn't risk wear on the rivnut threads. Imagine aluminium rivnut with steel bolt
Definitely add lube to the threads.
Do you turn the top bolt clockwise or anti clockwise?
Clockwise
You’re a life saver man, great video
Is this also applicable on an aluminum bike? Because my bike doesn't have a hole for a bottle cage thankyou
Hey 👋 Yep would be perfect for this 👍
Thanks i was just thinking if my bike will not have a crack because of the pressure
Also watching from the Philippines!😊😁
Is it an alloy bike frame? Aluminium or steel frame would fine
Yes it's an alloy bike frame
How can i get it flush to the metal if its thin metal sheeting?
You can't with these I'm afraid, will always have a little lip, that's what grips the material
whats the thickest metal one of these will work
Only a few mm
@@VideoShowMeHow thank you
I don't recommend using the nuts threads to rotationally draw it tight. Threads should be static and pulled to compress the nut. I.M.O.
I thought the same thing. Maybe it could be solved by rotating (taking off) the nut and don't let the bolt to rotate.
Hi Trying to put Rivnuts into the car floor but they go stay tight, any ideas why
Don't stay tight do you mean?
Thank you for useful method in clear video.
You are welcome
I recently stripped the nutsert. Are they easy to remove?
Have had success before drilling them out, that's about the only way I know though :(
@@VideoShowMeHow ok thanks ill try n do that see how it goes thanks
Tough but can try drilling until it spins, then crush /pinch/slice (Dremel) head collar and either push into hole or pull it out. This worked on RUSTED rivnuts. Biggest problem for me was avoiding enlarging the original hole.
Thanks for the video, just the type of nut I need to use
😂
This project is very good!
Why does the rivnut just spin in the hole?
Gotta really apply some downward pressure
Hey guys! What project you using this for?
Wouldn't an impact drill be faster instead of hand cranking it
Yep sure is :) ua-cam.com/video/u4huFzeQIgw/v-deo.html Nothing beats the proper tool of course, but good fun trying different methods
Its hard to tell when to stop with the impact drill because you cant feel it get tighter through the drill, I've warped a couple because I over did it with a drill.
Attaching DIY Wide-body Fender Flares to my ♥️ 02 Mustang Convertible ♥️
This comment is to remind me that the "coupler" is called "long nut" in my country and will be used when I eventually visit this video again. Also I should use external tooth washer instead of a spacer between the long nut and the nutsert.
why don't you just use another socket larger than the bolt instead of the coupler?
Could do, so long as you had good contact both sides would work. I found the coupler is good because you can 'push down' with the spanner to help it get that initial grip if that makes sense
@@VideoShowMeHow thanks. I think I'll try with a pair of vice grips on a socket. I'll end up loosing that coupler anyway. Either way sure beats a $50 tool
@@jonathanleslie9100 oh yeah 👍 I've got another version on the channel using a drill, even faster :)
Very cool tool. I will bemaking one of these for sure.
Gloves????
As in wearing them? Just a bit of thing in my vids more info in the description if you're interested 😃✌️
Thanks!🙏🏾
Very informative and appreciate the sharing of knowledge.
Some constructive criticism for your vids. Please hold your hands still when explaining something you are holding. Shaking the objects like a salt shaker was too much.
I do realize that some people really like to "talk with their hands" and you most likely are one of them. LOL
Again, good job on the content!
Thanks 🙏❤️
Spann-aah, eh! Tx for the vid.
Using Riv Nuts in stainless steel wading machine drum table.
Yeah, but the rivnut spins.... Not optimal
You don’t need a coupling, you nan just use a nut that’s bigger than your bolt.
This method didn't work for me - the rivnut just spins on its own. I can't actually see why it would work unless the hole is already a very tight fit and if the hole is already a tight fit, you don't need to use this method as you can just drive in the bolt directly and it will have the same effect. Maybe I'm missing something obvious...
it will be very hard to twist
💪💪💪
Very moderate pressure is needed actually (I'm arthritic 72 yr old) and once it is hard to turn...you're done anyway!
Not ideal, better to use a bolt and nut, and washers, tighten nut forcing the bolt outwards, then there will be no friction stress on the rivet nut thread
Yes they don’t stay tight
Are they loose when you install? Hole too large?
@@VideoShowMeHow no have to knock them in.. I know there are different ones, which ones are good for 1mm steel
@@brentregterschot2321 mustn't be fully crushed down then mate
Why this title sound like an eBay listing
In italiano non è possibile!!!
1/2 inch is nowhere near 19mm : )
1/2" is the internal thread size, not 'nut' size.......
You guys are lucky here in south africa we have fuck nuts no rivnuts
Great method, but it only works if the surface is thick and/or hard enough to grab the sides of the riv nut, keeping it from turning with the bolt. I've tried this with smaller nuts through softer sheet steel and didn't get anywhere. If successfully flared, it might not set straight, either. Sometimes, one needs the force/pulling from the legit tool.
👍👍👍