I'd love to see a comparison of drill adapters, or Atleast your specific endorsement. There's so many out there now that it's hard to trust the quality, and I fear them breaking the second I use it. I have used this Tolret installer, and it's great for hobby work, but some of the construction can benifit from thread locker.
I've been part of a team of electricians building the new pool and sportscentre in our town, and we used one shaped like your old one to put rivet nuts in the metal ceiling to hang cable trays and lights. It has tubular arms rather than the open ones yours has, and they were longer for more leverage and control. You only replaced the head part to change sizes. The whole return mechanism stayed contained in the tool and worked fine for the hundreds of nuts I installed. Wish I could recall the brand, it's been in the company and abused for 20+ years and still worked fine. Your new one would've taken forever to do all those, and have a lot more problems fitting in a tight space and still move the handles. Not saying it's bad, just not suited for my line of work. TL;DR: I love the tool you ragged on and feel a need to defend it! 😉
Man, thank you so much. I always wanted to learn how use a lot of mechanic's fittings and you hit it out of the park when explaining it so folks can understand. I had a friend who was a diesel mechanic. And we used to trade-off work and we had an agreement. You don't get involved in mine and I won't get involved in yours because I know little about it. So learning this way without getting yelled at is always good.
Thanks for the intro to a new tool and the demo. For a guy who's used to doing shorts, you sure do ramble on in your long form. What I'm saying is that it would be a rare thing indeed for someone who doesn't know what a rivet nut tool is to even watch this video and you go on for 10 minutes teaching about the rivet nut and the tool. This could have been an 8-minute video.
LOL I misread the title as Toilet Rivet nut tool, Never mind my mind is always in the gutter! "It's amazing when I just shut up and do the job!" LMFAO!! Indeed, Been there so many times!! Rivet Nuts have a place and I have always had a deep respect for their use in the right applications. Just used the link and ordered it, have always wanted one as an industrial Tech.
These are excellent tools and I've put in thousands of rivnuts with a similar Wurth one. You get a lot of feedback from it, certainly better than the lever type. Pro tip - Make sure the mandrel is all the way through the insert before pulling up, this preserves the thread form in the insert and reduces the chance of stripping. Also make sure that the the tool is screwed fully into itself, that makes sure that the maximum amount of pulling thread is available for use and reduces wear. Keep it all greased and it'll serve you well for years. You can do M12 inserts with them but they're a real workout to do more than two or three. M8 or M10 is easy enough. Some kits come with female threaded mandrels for pull-up studs although I haven't used those.
I saw that as well, you definitely want to be using all of the threads so it starts pulling from the "back" of the rivnut. It will expand/roll over quite a bit more than what you see here. Cool tool though for situations where you don't have room to get good leverage on the other type.
I bought this tool on your recommendation, and it works phenomenal ! One of the best nutsert tools I have ever used. Thank you, keep up the great tool reviews.
Nice video, thanks. Three small comments. 1) I prefer an interference fit when drilling the hole rather than a clearance. Not much of one, mind you-just enough to hold on to the fastener so I don’t need a third hand to do a good job. 2) It seems you *might* be underflaring the fastener just a bit in your sensible attempt not to mangle it. The correct amount is generally where the formed flange is the same size as the one from the factory. 3) Purely pedantic and I apologize but the part you are calling an “anvil” is more properly called a “mandrel”. Thanks again for your entertaining and informative videos, I’ve learned a lot from them.
Okay, I had to skip around a lot just to get to the point. But this was a super helpful video. First, I've never seen this tool before. Second, you really went into super detail. Thank you so much for taking the time to make, edit, and share this video. OUTSTANDING! Well done partner.
Bought the "old style" one a couple months ago to mount solar panels to a close-fit rail on my RV. I only wish this video was out then; it would have changed my whole tool choice!
I have a medium high dollar pneumatic rivet gun which is great, but the BEST I've ever used in 50+ years came to me by accident. Bought a bunch of stuff at an estate sale; found it in the bottom of a box. It is completely manual. Shaped like a pistol, the 'grip' is a cylinder w/ hydraulic fluid in it. Nice wide & long 'trigger', a couple of easy pulls, then a slight increase in resistance & pop go the rivet or the nut-sert is seated. Don't know if it's industrial or aviation, but in the nearly 20 years since it came to me, I haven't had a pop rivet failure or pain in my wrist. All aluminum, it IS the best I've used. As you get older, 40 years or so of working w/ your hands takes it's toll. Crimping electrical connectors is excrutiatingly painful; my focus for crimping/compacting type hand tools is how painfree they are to use. By good, lifetime specialty type tools, like this, while you're young; hopefully using them for your life, maybe you won't need them when you age... if you do need them, you got 'em.
I loned my Mac . Rivet gun style tool , to the owner of the shop I was at to put threads in a bumper for a licens plate. He brought the tool back in several pieces. Seems he thought because it had Rivit in its name, you cranked it until it popped. Like a rivet
I have one of the import versions like the Astro tool style, but with folding handles. It's very unwieldy to use as you rightly say (the handles are even longer than the Astro) but it's made from solid metal and it's still working fine after many years.
I've needed to get one for quite a while now. They're definitely handy for many applications. I bought one of the small manual ones in 6m a while back to reattach the side engine cover on my atv. But it's only single size, and you have to use two wrenches for it to work. I really like the Astro model for power drill operation.
Used one of the kind you don't like, put in a large nuber of rivnuts in a van to attach paneling to, to make the van a camper, worked great and you were done with one motion.
@@therealR.D. That's where I started when first using riv nuts. Without the tool, the inserts tend to spin. I would just hold the backs with a pliers, until the first project where the back was closed off. lol
Thx Funk. My only addition is to say that the further the anvil is inserted, the lesser the chance of stretching the threads. I'll never forgive you for not mentioning it🙄
Bob's your uncle: "This expression is mainly used in Britain. It is often used immediately after a set of simple instructions and roughly means the same as '... and it's as simple as that!' In 1887, British Prime Minister Robert Gascoyne-Cecil appointed his nephew Arthur James Balfour as Minister for Ireland. The phrase 'Bob's your uncle' was coined when Arthur referred to the Prime Minister as 'Uncle Bob'. Apparently, it's very simple to become a minister when Bob's your uncle!" ive only heard this from older blue collars, interesting to know the origin. Ive also only heard the measurement of a "C*nt hair" used in install, but I guess some crane operators use "C-hair". god i love the trades
@@FunkFPV Ive got no doubt you learned it from some master tech early on and it just stuck (at least thats my case). But i guess they got it from their Uk ancestors
lol pretty tough with the metal flopping around 😅 been looking for one of these....like the old one you had. going to grab this one instead. will be sure to use your link.
You have to be very careful on plastic IME, on soft plastics like HDPE (wheel well liners)it's extremely easy to pull the rivet all the way through the plastic whilst compressing as you don't get any feedback of a hard stop. On hard plastics you risk cracking them. Adding washers either side makes a big difference, but also makes assembly much more fiddly.
There are longer rivnuts with lengthwise cuts on the sides of the shaft that spread over a much larger area when collapsed, one brand is Plusnut, so far I only used them on steel because steel on lots of modern appliances is thinner than the powder coating, but I guess those can also work better on plastic because I use the same style of (aluminum) blind rivet on plastic toolboxes to fix new latches and those work well.
11:07 you mention that there are lines on the body that are not in the instructions, I found a listing on ebay ( I fell into a rabbit hole looking for a hydraulic hand unit that other commenters mentioned) and I believe thats a setting gauge. The listing I found said to turn the stroke to 0 to start the process and they look like theyre 1mm readings, so I believe from that they should be a measure for how much you have pulled the rivet nut from 0 to 8 mm
I've always just used nuts/bolts/washers to install rivnuts...every time I look at these tools and reviews on them, I get a solid meh preception. Now mind you, I'm not doing a ton of rivnuts, maybe a a handful or two a year, but the "free" tool has served the purpose.
Using nuts bolts and washers is a massive PITA. You absolutely don't want the bolt turning within the rivnut as you are compressing it, that's a one way street to damaged threads in the rivut. That means you somehow need to keep both the rivnut and the bolt stationary, whilst cranking down a nut and washer onto the rivnut. The only way I made this work is to drill the threads out of another nut and use it as a spacer between the compressing nut and the rivnut, so you can hold it still with a wrench, this stops the rivnut being turned. At the same time you use another wrench on the compressing nut, and another wrench on the end of the bolt to stop that turning. Ever since I lost my third arm I've found this quite awkward...
@@ferrumignis You just use two wrenches and hold with one, turn with the other...with some washers and such to space things out. I've done dozens this way without any issues at all.
Sadly, you need both, i had a pistol style and bolt cutter style ones, and the latter tends to be easier to use on the bigger rivets and more quanitity. The pistol style works well for smaller rivets and only a few at a time. The pneumatic ones are overkill for most users but also an option, also milwaukee has a m12 version too i believe Tool does look nice tho
Nut-Serts are carbon steel or stainless steel , and are manufactured as flange less or flanged type style . Flanged style will not fit flush . Will work on fiberglass panels with a back up washer .
Astro Xl drill adapter model all the way. Make sure to get the xl model. Stainless will eventually wear out the threaded rivnut adapters but Astro will warranty it out or sell it separately no problem getting parts for them at all. Love Astro tools. Good for the $ for sure.
I have one of the Doyle rivnut tools from Harbor Freight. I think it was $25-30 on sale and it's been great. Includes 8 mandrels and a sampling of rivnuts. It's the style like your old one.
The fact you said "Excuse Me" after the belch,... Much Respect As for the Astro, couldn't really tell, but can you weld a fender washer on the end and use that washer a base for a knob?
The Harbor Fraud one is similar design but more compact to use (about 4-5" shorter arms versus my other). That's both a pro and con depending on the circumstances. Wonder if the new style one works better.
I managed to fix a broken Huck hydraulic rivnut gun that a job was throwing a way, was an easy fix and it quickly became my favorite rivet tool. It's a pistol grip, but it works like a hydraulic jack so it pulls with a lot of force. Easily the best option if you need a non powered tool, but I'd hate to have to buy one for just a couple rivnuts.
do you happen to know the part number for that? another commentor talked about a hydraulic hand unit, sounds like yours but he didnt know the brand off hand
I like to put a bit of red threadlocker on the rivnuts grooves hoping it will prevent them from rotating when the future rusted bolts need to be removed, it seems to work but maybe the rivnut grooves actually grabbed into the base metal and I was just wasting threadlocker 😅
You buy a lot of tools that I’m assuming you use for work. My question is, if you break a tool on the job that you’ve purchased, does your company reimburse you the cost of replacement or do you just eat that cost? What is the industry standard?
The thing I don't like about both those tools is when you want to put a rivnut in a tight space, I bought the drill adaptor type that I use on a cordless drill but it doesn't mushroom the nut very much and if I use a more poweful coreded drill it strips out the thread of the nut, is it just me or is the drill adaptor type not very good either?
I used some 3/8 rivnuts to put threads in the pipe of a swing set. I was initially concerned about their pull out strength, but after looking it up, I was surprised to find it is several thousand pounds!
Do rivet nuts work on car sheet metal? 1/4 inch hole. Broke window trim bezels to pull a dent/repaint to stop rust, and now I don't have the original bezel and not sure how to make custom ones. All I have to attach to are the original 1/4 hole
hmm, this looks like it's based on something like the Wurth HES 412. There might not be much in the way of instructions for this one but there's a few vids out there on how to use the Wurth 🙂🙂
@bobbiac unfortunately the standard for commercial door hinges, commercial mortise lock cases, and strike plates is 12-24. Not just thread size is standard, but the countersink in the hardware is for a #12.
I only just realized why you have your username. Do you still fly? Id love to know your setup. Ive been getting into whoops, i got the tx16s but i have no clue what headset to get. I trust your judgement completely. Every tool and toe review has been great takes.
I do really dislike the "old model" I had to go out and get the 36 incher to replace a massive rivnut for a spring hanger bracket that got tore off the back of a daycab. Even with the foot and a half of extra leverage, securing that thing in there was no joke. The new model is interesting forsure
Its so weird you just made this video ive been having a back and forth with the theatre manager at the hospital i work at as she wants me too install one of these on a drugs cabinet so people cant steal it but you can just undo the screw and take it away but she doesnt seem too understand is there another way too do it or should i just use a normal rivet like i originally told her
It does seem to be more compact than the bolt cutter design rivet nut installer, but I am always leery of any tool that has plastic parts. I am an industrial mechanic and although I love my tools, I abuse them.
98+% of the time the sheet metal or hollow tubing would be mounted and rigind, not a sample coupon flopping around on the table, eliminating the cockeyed insert that happens when the sample piece is wobbling all around the table.
Keep the old one because that's the loan out tool now.
Smart
I find it offensive that you think he needs to be told that! 😉
It will still be useful. Sometimes reach is more important than clearance.
Haha Good idea 😜
Hahahaha perfect
The 1427 IS annoying to use. 1442 less so, but I've completely converted to air operated or drill adapter type from now on
I'd love to see a comparison of drill adapters, or Atleast your specific endorsement. There's so many out there now that it's hard to trust the quality, and I fear them breaking the second I use it.
I have used this Tolret installer, and it's great for hobby work, but some of the construction can benifit from thread locker.
I was considering that drill style one but it was too different looking 😜
I have seen @TaylorRay use the Milwaukee electric one a bunch and it seems to work good. He uses it all the time building cars and doing projects.
@@TheTrueOSSSI’ve been using the matco drill style (same as Astro) for a few years now. It’s been good.
I've been part of a team of electricians building the new pool and sportscentre in our town, and we used one shaped like your old one to put rivet nuts in the metal ceiling to hang cable trays and lights. It has tubular arms rather than the open ones yours has, and they were longer for more leverage and control. You only replaced the head part to change sizes. The whole return mechanism stayed contained in the tool and worked fine for the hundreds of nuts I installed. Wish I could recall the brand, it's been in the company and abused for 20+ years and still worked fine. Your new one would've taken forever to do all those, and have a lot more problems fitting in a tight space and still move the handles. Not saying it's bad, just not suited for my line of work.
TL;DR: I love the tool you ragged on and feel a need to defend it! 😉
Man, thank you so much. I always wanted to learn how use a lot of mechanic's fittings and you hit it out of the park when explaining it so folks can understand. I had a friend who was a diesel mechanic. And we used to trade-off work and we had an agreement. You don't get involved in mine and I won't get involved in yours because I know little about it. So learning this way without getting yelled at is always good.
😁👍🏻
Thanks for the intro to a new tool and the demo. For a guy who's used to doing shorts, you sure do ramble on in your long form. What I'm saying is that it would be a rare thing indeed for someone who doesn't know what a rivet nut tool is to even watch this video and you go on for 10 minutes teaching about the rivet nut and the tool. This could have been an 8-minute video.
LOL I misread the title as Toilet Rivet nut tool, Never mind my mind is always in the gutter! "It's amazing when I just shut up and do the job!" LMFAO!! Indeed, Been there so many times!! Rivet Nuts have a place and I have always had a deep respect for their use in the right applications. Just used the link and ordered it, have always wanted one as an industrial Tech.
I would have LOVED to have one of these a couple of years ago at my last job!! Literally sent this video to my old supervisor 😁
These are excellent tools and I've put in thousands of rivnuts with a similar Wurth one. You get a lot of feedback from it, certainly better than the lever type.
Pro tip - Make sure the mandrel is all the way through the insert before pulling up, this preserves the thread form in the insert and reduces the chance of stripping. Also make sure that the the tool is screwed fully into itself, that makes sure that the maximum amount of pulling thread is available for use and reduces wear. Keep it all greased and it'll serve you well for years.
You can do M12 inserts with them but they're a real workout to do more than two or three. M8 or M10 is easy enough. Some kits come with female threaded mandrels for pull-up studs although I haven't used those.
I saw that as well, you definitely want to be using all of the threads so it starts pulling from the "back" of the rivnut. It will expand/roll over quite a bit more than what you see here. Cool tool though for situations where you don't have room to get good leverage on the other type.
I bought this tool on your recommendation, and it works phenomenal ! One of the best nutsert tools I have ever used. Thank you, keep up the great tool reviews.
Nice video, thanks. Three small comments.
1) I prefer an interference fit when drilling the hole rather than a clearance. Not much of one, mind you-just enough to hold on to the fastener so I don’t need a third hand to do a good job.
2) It seems you *might* be underflaring the fastener just a bit in your sensible attempt not to mangle it. The correct amount is generally where the formed flange is the same size as the one from the factory.
3) Purely pedantic and I apologize but the part you are calling an “anvil” is more properly called a “mandrel”.
Thanks again for your entertaining and informative videos, I’ve learned a lot from them.
Okay, I had to skip around a lot just to get to the point. But this was a super helpful video. First, I've never seen this tool before. Second, you really went into super detail. Thank you so much for taking the time to make, edit, and share this video. OUTSTANDING! Well done partner.
Bought the "old style" one a couple months ago to mount solar panels to a close-fit rail on my RV. I only wish this video was out then; it would have changed my whole tool choice!
I have a medium high dollar pneumatic rivet gun which is great, but the BEST I've ever used in 50+ years came to me by accident.
Bought a bunch of stuff at an estate sale; found it in the bottom of a box. It is completely manual. Shaped like a pistol, the 'grip' is a cylinder w/ hydraulic fluid in it. Nice wide & long 'trigger', a couple of easy pulls, then a slight increase in resistance & pop go the rivet or the nut-sert is seated.
Don't know if it's industrial or aviation, but in the nearly 20 years since it came to me, I haven't had a pop rivet failure or pain in my wrist.
All aluminum, it IS the best I've used.
As you get older, 40 years or so of working w/ your hands takes it's toll. Crimping electrical connectors is excrutiatingly painful; my focus for crimping/compacting type hand tools is how painfree they are to use.
By good, lifetime specialty type tools, like this, while you're young; hopefully using them for your life, maybe you won't need them when you age... if you do need them, you got 'em.
My hands are getting tired in my old age. I’m always looking for things to give them a little help.
I loned my Mac . Rivet gun style tool , to the owner of the shop I was at to put threads in a bumper for a licens plate.
He brought the tool back in several pieces. Seems he thought because it had Rivit in its name, you cranked it until it popped. Like a rivet
Haha
See them every day on rooftop hvac units and refrigeration equipment. Everything from panels to holding tin can compressors and motors down
oh i've never seen this tool that I have to have now, that size is fantastic
I have one of the import versions like the Astro tool style, but with folding handles. It's very unwieldy to use as you rightly say (the handles are even longer than the Astro) but it's made from solid metal and it's still working fine after many years.
I've needed to get one for quite a while now. They're definitely handy for many applications. I bought one of the small manual ones in 6m a while back to reattach the side engine cover on my atv. But it's only single size, and you have to use two wrenches for it to work. I really like the Astro model for power drill operation.
Used one of the kind you don't like, put in a large nuber of rivnuts in a van to attach paneling to, to make the van a camper, worked great and you were done with one motion.
Now install one using a cordless impact, a socket, and a matching bolt. Just a couple taps of the trigger should do it.
@repairit1 That’s what I always wondered. Why couldn’t you ?
@@therealR.D. That's where I started when first using riv nuts. Without the tool, the inserts tend to spin. I would just hold the backs with a pliers, until the first project where the back was closed off. lol
@@repairit1 that makes sense.
Definitely interested in this. Always hated the astro style like you had before. This looks much more convenient.
Thx Funk. My only addition is to say that the further the anvil is inserted, the lesser the chance of stretching the threads. I'll never forgive you for not mentioning it🙄
Bob's your uncle:
"This expression is mainly used in Britain. It is often used immediately after a set of simple instructions and roughly means the same as '... and it's as simple as that!'
In 1887, British Prime Minister Robert Gascoyne-Cecil appointed his nephew Arthur James Balfour as Minister for Ireland. The phrase 'Bob's your uncle' was coined when Arthur referred to the Prime Minister as 'Uncle Bob'. Apparently, it's very simple to become a minister when Bob's your uncle!"
ive only heard this from older blue collars, interesting to know the origin. Ive also only heard the measurement of a "C*nt hair" used in install, but I guess some crane operators use "C-hair". god i love the trades
Haha I did not know that. I watch a few UK UA-cam channels so I guess I picked it up 😜
@@FunkFPV Ive got no doubt you learned it from some master tech early on and it just stuck (at least thats my case). But i guess they got it from their Uk ancestors
😂 appreciate the MIB reference in the thumbnail
Haha 😜
lol pretty tough with the metal flopping around 😅 been looking for one of these....like the old one you had. going to grab this one instead. will be sure to use your link.
😎👍🏻
dude i learned so much from this video. thanks brother.
Astro made a beehive looking one you could use a drill to set rivets and one for rivnuts.
I used rivnuts on plastic as well. Worked great to install stuff on plastic wheel wells...
I’ve never tried them on plastic. I’ll have to keep that in mind 👍🏻
You have to be very careful on plastic IME, on soft plastics like HDPE (wheel well liners)it's extremely easy to pull the rivet all the way through the plastic whilst compressing as you don't get any feedback of a hard stop. On hard plastics you risk cracking them. Adding washers either side makes a big difference, but also makes assembly much more fiddly.
@@ferrumignis It is extremely easy not to pull it through the plastic on a wheel wheel of a 1986 Pontiac Grand Prix.
There are longer rivnuts with lengthwise cuts on the sides of the shaft that spread over a much larger area when collapsed, one brand is Plusnut, so far I only used them on steel because steel on lots of modern appliances is thinner than the powder coating, but I guess those can also work better on plastic because I use the same style of (aluminum) blind rivet on plastic toolboxes to fix new latches and those work well.
@@ruben_balea I've seen regular pop rivets like this but I didn't know there were equivalent rivnuts, very useful to know.
I don't install rivet nuts very often but that tool looks like it works awesome.
11:07 you mention that there are lines on the body that are not in the instructions, I found a listing on ebay ( I fell into a rabbit hole looking for a hydraulic hand unit that other commenters mentioned) and I believe thats a setting gauge. The listing I found said to turn the stroke to 0 to start the process and they look like theyre 1mm readings, so I believe from that they should be a measure for how much you have pulled the rivet nut from 0 to 8 mm
I figured as much. If I’m being honest I’ll probably still do by feel.
I've always just used nuts/bolts/washers to install rivnuts...every time I look at these tools and reviews on them, I get a solid meh preception. Now mind you, I'm not doing a ton of rivnuts, maybe a a handful or two a year, but the "free" tool has served the purpose.
Do 1600 a day with a nut and washer. 😅
I only use them every once in a while. Sometimes I get a big job that requires dozens and this tool is a must.
Using nuts bolts and washers is a massive PITA. You absolutely don't want the bolt turning within the rivnut as you are compressing it, that's a one way street to damaged threads in the rivut. That means you somehow need to keep both the rivnut and the bolt stationary, whilst cranking down a nut and washer onto the rivnut. The only way I made this work is to drill the threads out of another nut and use it as a spacer between the compressing nut and the rivnut, so you can hold it still with a wrench, this stops the rivnut being turned. At the same time you use another wrench on the compressing nut, and another wrench on the end of the bolt to stop that turning. Ever since I lost my third arm I've found this quite awkward...
@@ferrumignis You just use two wrenches and hold with one, turn with the other...with some washers and such to space things out. I've done dozens this way without any issues at all.
came to make comments about rivets having nuts, but that sure looks like a better design than your old one.
Sadly, you need both, i had a pistol style and bolt cutter style ones, and the latter tends to be easier to use on the bigger rivets and more quanitity. The pistol style works well for smaller rivets and only a few at a time.
The pneumatic ones are overkill for most users but also an option, also milwaukee has a m12 version too i believe
Tool does look nice tho
Nut-Serts are carbon steel or stainless steel , and are manufactured as flange less or flanged type style . Flanged style will not fit flush . Will work on fiberglass panels with a back up washer .
Astro Xl drill adapter model all the way. Make sure to get the xl model. Stainless will eventually wear out the threaded rivnut adapters but Astro will warranty it out or sell it separately no problem getting parts for them at all. Love Astro tools. Good for the $ for sure.
Love the men in black reference on the thumbnail 👍🏼 hilarious 😂
😎👍🏻
GD, I remember back n to 70s when most tools were simple to use...
Cool vid...
I thought the title said the TOILET Rivet Nut Tool, kind of disappointed, I was curious what type of toilet used rivets
I think you get toilet rivets when you’re constipated.
Next time you should use a vice to hold your demonstration material. I don't have a use for this tool, but I need one.
Yeah, it was raining and I was being lazy and didn’t feel like going to the van.
I have one of the Doyle rivnut tools from Harbor Freight. I think it was $25-30 on sale and it's been great. Includes 8 mandrels and a sampling of rivnuts. It's the style like your old one.
That’s the one my shop has. I’ve never used it because I always had my own.
I read this as toilet rivet nut tool. I was like wtf
I have a similar one to the old one that also has a nibbler attachment. It works great but I o ly use it every now and then.
I still have my lever action one. Works great just not so much in tight corners.
Ya, the new tool is way better. Thanks
The fact you said "Excuse Me" after the belch,... Much Respect
As for the Astro, couldn't really tell, but can you weld a fender washer on the end and use that washer a base for a knob?
I used a crap-ton of riv-nuts to install water bottle cages on old bike frames that lacked that feature.
Don't bin the Astro ! Instead keep it as the "loaner tool"
Wow wish this had come along years ago
I think you did great for putting rivnuts in a free floating piece of sheet. The nuts and the tool are slick.
That metal is 100% thick enough to thread.
Maybe its all he had to use for an example and it depends on the thread size 🤷
The Harbor Fraud one is similar design but more compact to use (about 4-5" shorter arms versus my other). That's both a pro and con depending on the circumstances. Wonder if the new style one works better.
I managed to fix a broken Huck hydraulic rivnut gun that a job was throwing a way, was an easy fix and it quickly became my favorite rivet tool. It's a pistol grip, but it works like a hydraulic jack so it pulls with a lot of force. Easily the best option if you need a non powered tool, but I'd hate to have to buy one for just a couple rivnuts.
do you happen to know the part number for that? another commentor talked about a hydraulic hand unit, sounds like yours but he didnt know the brand off hand
@@legionofanon I have a Huck HK-150.
@@Hawk013 thanks, i just purchased one of those on ebay for $50. Now i want to find all of the attachments that fit it, theyre a cool tool
I like this design
I use rivnuts quite a bit mounting accessories on my motorcycle crash bars and on my boat
"old and busted, new hotness"
I understood that reference 🤓
😁👍🏻
Harbor Freight has a Doyle one that You might want to check out for like about 50 bucks. Looks pretty good!👍
So it's a manual nutter vs an automatic nutter? Preference depends on frequency of use I suppose.
If I was doing 12 a day I’d probably pony up the extra money for an automatic one.
I like to put a bit of red threadlocker on the rivnuts grooves hoping it will prevent them from rotating when the future rusted bolts need to be removed, it seems to work but maybe the rivnut grooves actually grabbed into the base metal and I was just wasting threadlocker 😅
If you have access to shop air, the make a pneumatic gun with a rocker trigger like a snap on impact that I use. Works like a charm
I try to avoid air tools. My van compressor is a little weak.
Real hinges on the case clamps and case halves instead of bent plastic. That's enough for me to trust the quality.
I've been using the drill attatchment version astro has and its been pretty good, no real manual wrestling
You buy a lot of tools that I’m assuming you use for work. My question is, if you break a tool on the job that you’ve purchased, does your company reimburse you the cost of replacement or do you just eat that cost? What is the industry standard?
The thing I don't like about both those tools is when you want to put a rivnut in a tight space, I bought the drill adaptor type that I use on a cordless drill but it doesn't mushroom the nut very much and if I use a more poweful coreded drill it strips out the thread of the nut, is it just me or is the drill adaptor type not very good either?
They're inexpensive enough that I have all of the styles..including the attachment for a drill..no squeezing by hand at all..👍
I used some 3/8 rivnuts to put threads in the pipe of a swing set. I was initially concerned about their pull out strength, but after looking it up, I was surprised to find it is several thousand pounds!
I always thought the flag had a bunch of holes in it.
Thanks
Do rivet nuts work on car sheet metal? 1/4 inch hole.
Broke window trim bezels to pull a dent/repaint to stop rust, and now I don't have the original bezel and not sure how to make custom ones.
All I have to attach to are the original 1/4 hole
Well motor manufacturers use them.
I don’t see why not.
hmm, this looks like it's based on something like the Wurth HES 412. There might not be much in the way of instructions for this one but there's a few vids out there on how to use the Wurth 🙂🙂
I wouldn’t say that they are not structural. Perhaps they are not as far as intended use case and purpose, but supposedly these are incredibly strong.
Any chance you know if the Mandrel on those m10’s are m10 x 1.5 or m10 x 1.0?
Was excited for this...but I gotta have 12-24 mandrels for door hardware, very hard to find.
McMaster Carr is your friend there. They even have sealed rivnuts
Edit: oops I'm dumb. Maybe try changing the hardware?
@bobbiac unfortunately the standard for commercial door hinges, commercial mortise lock cases, and strike plates is 12-24. Not just thread size is standard, but the countersink in the hardware is for a #12.
@@jaycable3858 damn. Would have thought you could get away with an M5 replacement
Get one sout that does pop rivets and riv nuts. As is I use a bolt and nut and set it as I go.
I need to get a new one soon too.
Astro makes one that goes on a drill. ADN38 for the big one.
I wish I'd seen this one before I bought a lever type.
I only just realized why you have your username. Do you still fly? Id love to know your setup. Ive been getting into whoops, i got the tx16s but i have no clue what headset to get. I trust your judgement completely. Every tool and toe review has been great takes.
I haven’t flown in a while. Most of my stuff is 3 years out of date. If you scroll back far enough in my videos I have a ton of flying videos.
No don’t throw it out, keep it for a loaner if it sucks bad enough maybe the constant tool borrow guys will buy their own, blessings
If you picture an Asian guy saying “toilet”, that is the name of the company right there.
M6=10mm m8=1/2”/13mm m10=5/8”/16mm
I do really dislike the "old model" I had to go out and get the 36 incher to replace a massive rivnut for a spring hanger bracket that got tore off the back of a daycab. Even with the foot and a half of extra leverage, securing that thing in there was no joke. The new model is interesting forsure
Looks like it would work ok with plus nuts. To much fidgeting around to work with the regular ones tho
Its so weird you just made this video ive been having a back and forth with the theatre manager at the hospital i work at as she wants me too install one of these on a drugs cabinet so people cant steal it but you can just undo the screw and take it away but she doesnt seem too understand is there another way too do it or should i just use a normal rivet like i originally told her
I would keep the Astro You may find a place where it can reach and you can't get the other to work.
It does seem to be more compact than the bolt cutter design rivet nut installer, but I am always leery of any tool that has plastic parts. I am an industrial mechanic and although I love my tools, I abuse them.
Tip for new mechanics. If you barrow it 3 times buy it. If you never barrow it buy it on the "makes life/job easier"
Who else spent a few seconds wondering what a "toilet rivet nut" was?
😂😂 They put some of the dumbest names on this stuff.
Why didn't you just put the plate in a vice?
good idea
ok now get one of the battery powered ones and test it for us!
Thew new tool looks like a james bond firearm.
Yeah boooiii!!! Hoochie coochie choo choo train 🎉🎉
That's exciting.
😅
When I first read the headline I thought it said “Toilet” rivet tool.
98+% of the time the sheet metal or hollow tubing would be mounted and rigind, not a sample coupon flopping around on the table, eliminating the cockeyed insert that happens when the sample piece is wobbling all around the table.
So much of this video in the first 90 seconds describes me in high school. 🥴
Wait..
I first read TOILET river gun .... I go back to sleep now
Boeing uses these on 737 plug doors.
If Boeing uses it, it has to be good 🤣😂
@@FunkFPVas long as you're not trying to get to space 😂😂
That new one is waaaaayyyy too much work.
Use your toe to hold it down while you rivet it and you'll have an extra hand to tighten it down.
Haha I could do a Rate Your Toe on myself 😜
You need a four head camera mount so your hands are free 😊