NIAS: TALKING ON THE WAVE OF MY LIFE (ALMOST!)
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- Опубліковано 5 лют 2025
- Excerpt from my film OVER THE EDGE: speaking on one of my best moments in surfing, during the biggest swell to ever hit Nias, Indonesia. If I made it, I think this would have been the ride of my life...
Edit: Andrew Kaineder
geni.us/OverTh...
amazing takeoff and commitment! that last lip looked like a near shutdown anyway.
Respect for paddling into that beast. And sorry about that weird little section that broke in front of you.
Awesome ride, mate.
Bruh you were nowhere near making that wave. Love your stories, youre an amazing surfer.
Wow. Absolutely mental one. That take off was so gnarly!
Stand out performance on that swell. Big respect
Thanks man. One of the best days of my life
@@MattBromleySurf Nathan Florence said that you were the only one pushing the boundaries that day 🤙🤙🤙
Crazy looking at the first aerial view of the point . Only palm trees when l was there , every morning to myself , midday with 2 others ,
Back then it was the only low tide surfable break l knew of in the islands .
But they were not beasts like this .
Great commitment to the drop mate .
Yes, only palm trees and Dougga Warren getting pitted out there with me as well when I first surfed the place!
@@MrIsomer awesome what year an month we're you there, june or july 77 for me .
@@marksheehan8026 I was busy dipping my toes into G-Land June '77. Then I saw Eric Aeder's cover shot of Nias a few years later, and ventured to Lagundri I think Aug. of 1980 and shot some footage of Dougga there for my first movie Bali High.
@@marksheehan8026 1977 - Wow. Good for you! Almost back in the Peter Troy days!
@@MrIsomer myself and 3 others early June 77 had an indo boat organized to go to Glands but the Harbour master wouldn't let us leave port in Bali unless a Yank named Bouyon gave permission his response was 100US $each per day to him or no go , we found out later the indo officials were all tangled up together , he eventually had to flee indo when a few drug deals went bad with officials , lam still a little guttered we were so close in going . There's a doco called sea of darkness about that Era n him .
Good for you making there wouldn't have been a soul about for you .
I love this guy- Clearly an epic baller and yet always so humble
OMG full commitment and elephant balls
Hahaha !
Impressed!!
Fantastic footage, and nicely done!
_Waves I Didn't Make_
Finally, a series I can contribute to.
Epic,cant wait for this season!
🌊Big Wave King🌊
This is one of the craziest rides I've seen....so nice 👍
Whoop whoop 🙌🏼 🎉
HEAVY 💪🏼💪🏼
Your drop was so radical it was worth a lot man 👍👊💪🙏
Dude you made that drop!!!! The tube pinching, that's on the wave.
pretty sick take off, man ....woww
Insane moment
That waves was on Nias yesterday? :O
Very heavy!!
Big ballz and dizzy balance...Dat' was nuts !!!
Insane drop but that wave closed, you weren’t even close 😂
Were you talking to yourself or the fish?
Lo when typos kinda make sense
Hey brother that was one heavy take off
🔥🔥🔥 Sitting deep in the pack.
More please!
All good you rode it perfect it pinched.
How U stuck that takeoff brother, 🙏🙏.. incredible
Thank you! One of the best moments of my life
good stuff
Holy hell that was heavy...
So heavy!!!!
Is this from that swell in 2018?
Still special
That drop omg.
You did everything right. The wave had other plans
Respect
That’s awesome I probably would have died😁
talking or taking?
Nice late drop I think it helped him get a little deeper
the only Nias wave that didn't allow any exit...
Superman
Fuck it I'd call that a make ! You got to get near full marks just for the drop . Ballsy.
Hallo
gotta hate when ya feet go out of position from a mental drop like that, then you gotta learn how to ride that board with your feet where they are instantly, in a hectic position. composure kept. kudos
Blew it goofy
pity it sectioned, not much you could do
Awesome takeoff but I have to say that there is no way that was going to be the wave of your life. It could have been the closeout drilling of your life though.
Yeah cos you sat low when Nias requires you to sit high or mid-way up the face. But nice charging that drop. Rare for Nias to close-out like that. Well done. (Of course charging reefs in the tropics always carries more medical dangers than are reasonable).
Lol if he highlined that he would’ve been upside amigo
Ricky would have made it lol
Mind and body bending