Lot to be said for a controller made of true off the shelf parts like the old Spike solo controller, Auber controllers, the controllers that High Gravity Brewing (rip) were making, etc. With a bit of know how, pids temp probs, etc. could be replaced fairly easily. Systems that support the tri-clamp/L5-30 outlet elements make swaps super simple.
Yeah, this is aside from a brewing system but I’m struggling right now with a new air conditioner that I had to buy for my walk-in cooler using the coolbot controller..it’s not going under 50° I think it’s like a Chinese Bill air conditioner and I’m a little ticked off about it so I’m trying to figure that out but yeah I totally understand what you’re saying my system works really well it’s pretty efficient but there are some things that I’m still kind of working out little kinks and stuff… informative and a great video … cheers Stephen 🍻
I like this style of system but the parts sound kinda budget on your system. I have an inkbird PID attached to a hot rod heat stick or fwrm fridge heater and it is spot on after I autotune it. When I win the lotto I will get a blichmann compact breweasy. Wires should not be failing like that.
I don't have a BIAB system, however I do have a Kettle RIMS system that suffers a bit from the same dynamics. I am of the thought that the closest we can narrow the temperature band which our systems tend to bounce around within is a HERMS. Even a HERMS system will have some bandwidth which the temperature will rise and fall within. I feel your pain, maybe not as bad as you are experiencing. The nice thing about actual kettle based all in 1 or 2 kettle systems is, it's only a small investment to narrow the bandwidth by expanding to a HERMS. Zum Wohle
I own a brewzilla Gen4 220 65l system. Take it from someone who owns it, I would not buy it again. The "PID" control on it is kind of a joke and extremely hard to dial in and changes for every batch so if you use it you spend the whole mash dialing it in to control temperature swings. Finding the grain crush size to maintain a good re-circulation and temperature control while maintaining a modicum of efficiency is like finding the holy grail. Crush too course wind up with a low gravity wort, even after overnight mashing. Crush to fine and clog the malt pipe and blow your 75.00 dollar pump even with 8% rice hulls in the grain bill. I am probably going to ditch the malt pipe all together and just put a brew bag in there, I'm hoping it will simulate the brew basket pictured in your video, I heard there's almost not re-circulation problems with those even if you crush really fine.
Would actually like to know what your system is sounds very interesting
Great review. Truthful and tactful 🤙🏻
@@preuc3367 thanks Pruce
Lot to be said for a controller made of true off the shelf parts like the old Spike solo controller, Auber controllers, the controllers that High Gravity Brewing (rip) were making, etc. With a bit of know how, pids temp probs, etc. could be replaced fairly easily. Systems that support the tri-clamp/L5-30 outlet elements make swaps super simple.
Next time I come out I will stay for a couple extra days to put in the outlet you need
Yeah, this is aside from a brewing system but I’m struggling right now with a new air conditioner that I had to buy for my walk-in cooler using the coolbot controller..it’s not going under 50° I think it’s like a Chinese Bill air conditioner and I’m a little ticked off about it so I’m trying to figure that out but yeah I totally understand what you’re saying my system works really well it’s pretty efficient but there are some things that I’m still kind of working out little kinks and stuff… informative and a great video … cheers Stephen 🍻
Dang AliExpress junk lol Cheers Beer Man !
I built my own 3 vessel system from scratch. You get what you pay for!
@@roygoddard9331 nice one. I don't have space for a 3 vessel but i make do.
I like this style of system but the parts sound kinda budget on your system. I have an inkbird PID attached to a hot rod heat stick or fwrm fridge heater and it is spot on after I autotune it. When I win the lotto I will get a blichmann compact breweasy. Wires should not be failing like that.
@@Leadership_matters ya I'd love a higher end system but for now it's ok.
@@NWsmallbatchBrewingwhen we both win the lotto!!!😂
I don't have a BIAB system, however I do have a Kettle RIMS system that suffers a bit from the same dynamics. I am of the thought that the closest we can narrow the temperature band which our systems tend to bounce around within is a HERMS. Even a HERMS system will have some bandwidth which the temperature will rise and fall within. I feel your pain, maybe not as bad as you are experiencing. The nice thing about actual kettle based all in 1 or 2 kettle systems is, it's only a small investment to narrow the bandwidth by expanding to a HERMS. Zum Wohle
I own a brewzilla Gen4 220 65l system. Take it from someone who owns it, I would not buy it again. The "PID" control on it is kind of a joke and extremely hard to dial in and changes for every batch so if you use it you spend the whole mash dialing it in to control temperature swings. Finding the grain crush size to maintain a good re-circulation and temperature control while maintaining a modicum of efficiency is like finding the holy grail. Crush too course wind up with a low gravity wort, even after overnight mashing. Crush to fine and clog the malt pipe and blow your 75.00 dollar pump even with 8% rice hulls in the grain bill. I am probably going to ditch the malt pipe all together and just put a brew bag in there, I'm hoping it will simulate the brew basket pictured in your video, I heard there's almost not re-circulation problems with those even if you crush really fine.
@@gregvinyard7375 wow that's good info. Your right to mill on the tightest setting and have no issues