That bit of machining made a big improvement. In my opinion it doesn't need more. Don't forget that this little machine will never run 16 hours a day at 6 days a week.
Very true. And as I said in the video, I only want this for internal keyway cutting. Next on the list for the shaper is to make some tooling for keyway cutting
Hi Nathan - I don't think there's a measured amount of clearance you need, just as little as possible, so that the carriage can move with no play. It would be more like 0.05mm or so though, than 0.25mm, if you were to measure it. Some kind of adjustability (perhaps grub screws modified with brass inserted tips?) like the gibs on your mill, would be the best way forward because you can adjust and test, then adjust again and test, etc. (Just watched the rest of the video) It looks like it's running a lot better now. You have solved 99% of the play/rigidity issue, which is great. It would be cool to see it making a slot now! Cheers, Craig
Looks great, as for those box slides, the ones I made were milled slightly undersized and clearance gained with shims, and they had a rectangular gib for the edge. A little disassembly and check for wear spots, or high spots, knock them off and after a couple of goes the clearance can be worked spot on, just takes a bit of time. Lots of suggestions I see,. Best of luck, and I am looking forward to see it in action, cheers!
I applaud you effort you clearly have some skills but im wondering if the amount spent on steel could of been used to buy a hand shaper?? I have a alba 1a shaper and if you need any machining done im happy to lend a hand. Keep the videos coming im really enjoying them.
Thanks Steven. I think I spent around £58 on steel to make this. Not sure how much a shaper off the shelf would cost me. I will have a look out of curiosity
@@bettytherussiantortoise2808 depemds in Malysia google steel supplier and find one with photos or website stating specifically the type of steel you want.Not sure about you .I bought a 60cm by 60 cm by 1 cm thick mild steel for rm100
Love that ratchet wrench. Dont know if it helps much, but my atlas shaper appears to have a series of very thin shims on every gib surface. Looks like its made to be fine tuned by removing very thin shims as needed
Cleaver use of bar stock to make a shaper. Your cutting tool could use more rake when cutting Aluminum. The chip should curl up, not look like it was pushed by a bulldozer. The tool you are using is ground for brass or cast iron. Search for `metal shaper bit geometry`. Getting the rake, clearance, and other tool-work geometries correct can make the difference between success and failure using an Armstrong shaper.
Looking good, consider changing the tool profile to have less tool surface in contact with the work, especially when you are providing all the motive force
That bit of machining made a big improvement.
In my opinion it doesn't need more. Don't forget that this little machine will never run 16 hours a day at 6 days a week.
Very true. And as I said in the video, I only want this for internal keyway cutting. Next on the list for the shaper is to make some tooling for keyway cutting
@@mrmechanical3423 Don't worry, once you have cut a few keyways, you will find other uses to entertain this lovely little shaper!
Very nice repair in the shaper i love the design
Thanks Joseph
Hi Nathan I have purchased your plans,and thank you for sharing the update. Will keep checking your site great work.Alle.
Thanks Allen
Hi Nathan - I don't think there's a measured amount of clearance you need, just as little as possible, so that the carriage can move with no play. It would be more like 0.05mm or so though, than 0.25mm, if you were to measure it. Some kind of adjustability (perhaps grub screws modified with brass inserted tips?) like the gibs on your mill, would be the best way forward because you can adjust and test, then adjust again and test, etc.
(Just watched the rest of the video) It looks like it's running a lot better now. You have solved 99% of the play/rigidity issue, which is great. It would be cool to see it making a slot now!
Cheers,
Craig
Thanks Craig. I think I will go for the grub screw option to improve it further
Looks great, as for those box slides, the ones I made were milled slightly undersized and clearance gained with shims, and they had a rectangular gib for the edge. A little disassembly and check for wear spots, or high spots, knock them off and after a couple of goes the clearance can be worked spot on, just takes a bit of time. Lots of suggestions I see,.
Best of luck, and I am looking forward to see it in action, cheers!
Thanks howder1951.
I applaud you effort you clearly have some skills but im wondering if the amount spent on steel could of been used to buy a hand shaper??
I have a alba 1a shaper and if you need any machining done im happy to lend a hand. Keep the videos coming im really enjoying them.
Thanks Steven. I think I spent around £58 on steel to make this. Not sure how much a shaper off the shelf would cost me. I will have a look out of curiosity
Mr Mechanical where did you get the steel?
@@bettytherussiantortoise2808 depemds in Malysia google steel supplier and find one with photos or website stating specifically the type of steel you want.Not sure about you .I bought a 60cm by 60 cm by 1 cm thick mild steel for rm100
Love that ratchet wrench. Dont know if it helps much, but my atlas shaper appears to have a series of very thin shims on every gib surface. Looks like its made to be fine tuned by removing very thin shims as needed
Thanks Craig. I think I'm going to add some grub screw next. Like gib screws
Cleaver use of bar stock to make a shaper. Your cutting tool could use more rake when cutting Aluminum. The chip should curl up, not look like it was pushed by a bulldozer. The tool you are using is ground for brass or cast iron. Search for `metal shaper bit geometry`. Getting the rake, clearance, and other tool-work geometries correct can make the difference between success and failure using an Armstrong shaper.
Looking good, consider changing the tool profile to have less tool surface in contact with the work, especially when you are providing all the motive force
Thanks Dave. Good idea. I have some small 3mm tool steel coming too for making a small keyway cutter.
i think it could be that machine. seriously you're so close here.
I couldn't reach the link to the plans, would you be able to fix that please?
Hi Oliver, send me an email to mr-mechanical@outlook.com and ill send you the drawings
The links to the plans is no longer working
without a power drive your better off using a mill
More like a scraper then a sharper, You might think carbide cutting tools.