Thank you again, it really means a lot to hear that! I did an eye tutorial if you are interested ( ua-cam.com/video/Q2tXYRU4vVg/v-deo.html ). I may update all these tutorials in the near future. 👍✌
Thank you! Using an edge works, I just find that when carving the whole figure, whittling the face on a flat plan allows a bit more options for the body. 👍✌
I was genuinely surprised to see that you didn’t cut the nose from the “edge” of the wood. 😮 Great explanation. I think I may finally be able to do the nose. Thank you!
Thank you very much, I am glad it was useful. 👍✌ You can certainly use the edge, but if you are carving the full figure fitting the feet in is a bit more complicated. Starting on a flat plane allows more options for ears and feet.
Fantastic tutorial, thanks! I realized when you mentioned about having a lousy piece of wood, that is an issue I have that I ignore. I was given basswood planks that are great, ripped down to sticks, but some parts do not hold detail as well because the grain is not tight. Taking the time to draw a few extra pencil lines is helpful as well!
Thank you! I have had the same experience with basswood. There is even more variation in eastern with pine, as expected. BTW, thanks for inspiring the nose tutorial! 👍✌
I always find myself looking at the non-knife hand for signs of damage…ah so around 1:15 you mention it! Ha. The ppl I call “the safety police” will almost always post “why aren’t you modeling safety buy wearing a glove?” Haha. I wear a Kevlar glove altho 99% of the time I don’t need it. That other 1% of the time means I will deal its a few days of healing a small cut so…the glove.
As is "normal" for me, the last few cuts I "received" were on my non-dominate hand - not paying attention while moving or storing my knives🤪. Thank you! 👍✌
@@WhittlingWoods Ha ha. I know what you mean. I’ve been carving for about 5 years (mostly spoons, bowls, green wood) yet I did a silly thing recently. My son was visiting and he had two chip carving knives he had brought with him. I had some sheaths I had made from birch bark. I stuck one on then to remove it I flicked it off as you might flick the top of a Bic pen off (or as you would have propelled a marble back in the 1960‘s!). Of course I put a shallow cut in the pad of my right thumb! ha ha…fool! I’m so accustomed to tiny pokes and slices from earlier days that I just immediately apply pressure and carry on. Better to wear the glove for me but even so stuff happens. The fun of carving far outweighs the slight inconveniences of little cuts.
If the push cut you use goes a prescribed distance each time you can easily control the cut. It’s leverage. The knife is the lever and your non-dominant thumb is the fulcrum. You are in control of how much of an arc you are moving the lever (the knife’s edge) against the fulcrum (non-dom thumb). This sounds complicated but it’s not. Do it and look at these words. Also, the tip travels farther than the blade lower down. Play around with this very simple and functional “physics”. I always think about a cat and a dog on a tie down. If the chain is 10 feet long and the cat is twelve feet away no worries. So if the blade is going to move 1/4” by way of your levering and the nose is 3/8” away…no worries. You can carve up toward the nose all you want if you know how far you’re moving the blade. Bingo.
Facial features do not need to be fully symmetrical, vary rare human faces are symmetrical, I myself have one eye lower than the other, to check your own face take full face selfie, load into editing software make centerline then flip one half over, you will find two totally different faces, well I did anyway.
I just started carving and have been struggling with noses. Your video helped a lot. Thank you.
Thank you, great to hear! 👍✌
Good video. I struggle with noses, thank you
Much appreciated Tom. Thank you! 👍✌
Thank you Ken will help me for sure great video 😊
Thank you, much appreciated! 👍✌
Extremely helpful! Broken down perfectly. Appreciate ya
Thank you very much! 👍✌
Did my first carving in over year, thanks for the inspiration!
Very cool! Thank you. 👍✌
Great teaching my friend ..Very informative teaching of noses ..Thank you so much for showing your talent
Thank you very much Gene! 👍✌
Very informative! Though i have been whittling for a while i always learn something new........ Thank You!
Thank you, much appreciated! 👍✌
Very nice....I've watched tons of videos...yours are excellent. Thank you. I struggle with the eyes...hope to see some of yours on how to carve eyes.
Thank you again, it really means a lot to hear that! I did an eye tutorial if you are interested ( ua-cam.com/video/Q2tXYRU4vVg/v-deo.html ). I may update all these tutorials in the near future. 👍✌
Great video most the videos I have seen all show you how to do it but they all do it on the edge thank you very much great video
Thank you! Using an edge works, I just find that when carving the whole figure, whittling the face on a flat plan allows a bit more options for the body. 👍✌
Very helpful, I always struggle with noses!!
I am glad it was helpful! Thank you.👍✌
I was genuinely surprised to see that you didn’t cut the nose from the “edge” of the wood. 😮 Great explanation. I think I may finally be able to do the nose. Thank you!
Thank you very much, I am glad it was useful. 👍✌
You can certainly use the edge, but if you are carving the full figure fitting the feet in is a bit more complicated. Starting on a flat plane allows more options for ears and feet.
Very nice! Explained perfectly
Thank you, much appreciated! 👍✌
Fantastic tutorial, thanks! I realized when you mentioned about having a lousy piece of wood, that is an issue I have that I ignore. I was given basswood planks that are great, ripped down to sticks, but some parts do not hold detail as well because the grain is not tight.
Taking the time to draw a few extra pencil lines is helpful as well!
Thank you! I have had the same experience with basswood. There is even more variation in eastern with pine, as expected. BTW, thanks for inspiring the nose tutorial! 👍✌
I appreciate your continued content!
First time viewer. Nice video. Where do you get your pine from?
Thank you! The wood is Eastern White Pine dimensional lumber that I picked up from Lowes.👍✌
How are you sharpening your knife/ knives?
Here you go, I hope it helps👍✌ ua-cam.com/video/ClDyNUdi-54/v-deo.html
Parabéns
Obrigado! 👍✌
Hard as I try, I keep lopping the danged nose off! ?
Well you know your knives are sharp 😉. Make sure your pushing cut is not below your stop cut - that may help. 👍✌
I always find myself looking at the non-knife hand for signs of damage…ah so around 1:15 you mention it! Ha. The ppl I call “the safety police” will almost always post “why aren’t you modeling safety buy wearing a glove?” Haha. I wear a Kevlar glove altho 99% of the time I don’t need it. That other 1% of the time means I will deal its a few days of healing a small cut so…the glove.
As is "normal" for me, the last few cuts I "received" were on my non-dominate hand - not paying attention while moving or storing my knives🤪. Thank you! 👍✌
@@WhittlingWoods Ha ha. I know what you mean. I’ve been carving for about 5 years (mostly spoons, bowls, green wood) yet I did a silly thing recently. My son was visiting and he had two chip carving knives he had brought with him. I had some sheaths I had made from birch bark. I stuck one on then to remove it I flicked it off as you might flick the top of a Bic pen off (or as you would have propelled a marble back in the 1960‘s!). Of course I put a shallow cut in the pad of my right thumb! ha ha…fool! I’m so accustomed to tiny pokes and slices from earlier days that I just immediately apply pressure and carry on. Better to wear the glove for me but even so stuff happens. The fun of carving far outweighs the slight inconveniences of little cuts.
@@bobrenda1618 So true! 👍✌
If the push cut you use goes a prescribed distance each time you can easily control the cut. It’s leverage. The knife is the lever and your non-dominant thumb is the fulcrum. You are in control of how much of an arc you are moving the lever (the knife’s edge) against the fulcrum (non-dom thumb). This sounds complicated but it’s not. Do it and look at these words. Also, the tip travels farther than the blade lower down. Play around with this very simple and functional “physics”. I always think about a cat and a dog on a tie down. If the chain is 10 feet long and the cat is twelve feet away no worries. So if the blade is going to move 1/4” by way of your levering and the nose is 3/8” away…no worries. You can carve up toward the nose all you want if you know how far you’re moving the blade. Bingo.
Very interesting, I will give it a shot. Thanks! 👍✌
Facial features do not need to be fully symmetrical, vary rare human faces are symmetrical, I myself have one eye lower than the other, to check your own face take full face selfie, load into editing software make centerline then flip one half over, you will find two totally different faces, well I did anyway.
Exactly! I always try to point that out when doing figure whittles. I have broken my nose enough times to attest to facial asymmetry! 😉👍✌