The division into equal parts was awesome. Been constructing for 25 plus years.Worked side by side with some of the best. Never seen that one before. Thank you.
Very good. You showed me some things on this video that I have never seen, and I've watched a lot of videos on tape measures and tips for them. Thanks.
Some good tips that many don't know about. I just put out a similar video, but it ended up at 30 minutes, lol. I showed too many tips, so I cut it down to 17. I showed a few I don't see elsewhere like how to scribe straight lines and cut sheetrock with just a tape measure and knife. I also showed how laser measurers come in handy for inside measurements of rooms, high walls, etc. And how to mark a large circle, up to 50' if you needed, which I believe you showed here. Thanks
using a board with a known length to get an inside measurement is a good tip, but even easier is to check the lower part of the tape housing. The length of the housing itself is given.
Use this one all the time. Also draw a line say 12" off the end point. Now measure to the line and add 12. Way more accurate and faster then trying to push the backside of the tape to the end point and reading the tape.
if u fold your tape like Gene did to divide by 2, but instead of holding it on 40", hold it on 116". this represents the current year which of coarse is 2016. Then ask your partner what year he was born. lets say he says 1971. holding the tip on 116", look at the 71" mark on the tape.(1971). the number across from 71 would be 45. That is the age of your partner in 2016. dont forget next year to hold it on 117". great video Gene. dividing a board into equal pieces learned me . Thumbs up
I don't know how most people remember measurements, but I always thought I was good for remembering two. Then I realized that if I "saw" the third one, I didn't have to remember it. I just remembered what I saw.
Paul Ricalde on you tube suggested that instead of using that 10 inch piece of wood in order to avoid trying to read a tape measure curled up in a corner, is to simply measure from one side toward the centre an even number of inches and then from the opposite direction take the tape measure toward the first measurement (the even numbered measurement you first took ) and simply add the two numbers. This will give you an exact measurement of something without having to guess the length when the links falls in a corner and requires the tape measure to curl
Thank you very much for posting this. I don't understand some of your instructions though: On the push and Pull measurement: I am on clear as to what to do when I measure something and that gadget on the end moves when I am pulling - when I normally do is just ( as you yourself suggest ) is to start the measurement on 1 inch but, what are you suggesting to do otherwise ?
Gene. Please help me understand. How can I know I am measuring correctly? If I pull the tape measure, the tip stretched at least 1/16. But if I measure with that tip against a corner, I bet I am losing 1/16. How do I know the true measurement if that end piece moves. I'm sorry but I just don't get it.
Hi Spencer. You are exactly right. That 1/16'" difference is the thickness of the tip of the tape. So if you push the tape into a corner it will slide 1/16" towards the tape. If you hook it to an outside corner of a room, it will slide out 1/16", the thickness of that tape tab. But here is the most important part... whenever possible, use the same tape for measuring and also when you go to cut the parts, because tapes will vary. Also make sure that tab at the end of the tape didn't get accidentally step on and is now not perfectly 90 degrees. Please note you can't always do what was said above. If you are on the roof measuring decking, you will call down to the guy on the ground who is actually cutting the plywood. I hope this helps. Gene
that trick at 11.40. I've seen that once before in another video. I haven't needed to use it yet, but I can see how it'd sure come in handy. I hope I'll remember it when I'll eventually need to use it
Be aware that by using this method to divide a board you are finding the line positions that divide the board, not the fence setting for cutting the board. So, to make all boards the same width once they're cut, subtract the full width of your saw's kerf and make sure you run the last piece through the saw, too, so that all pieces will end up the same width. Besides this, realize that wood often has inner stresses such that a wide board that is straight and flat might yield two or more narrower boards that are warped. (The inner stresses are no longer balanced as they were when it was all one piece.) Therefore, don't count on getting the use of the complete width of the original board cut into x number of pieces. Figure that once you cut them apart you may need to true them up with a jointer and/or planer. I have learned from experience that it is wise to rough cut your wood close to its final width and thickness before jointing and planing.
the 16" mark is your oc (on center spacing) measurement so when laying out your plates you want to take half the dimension of the studs thickness and subtract it from 16",32",48".....(oc) {ex. if using 2Xs it will be -¾" ex. 15¼",31¼",47¼".....} just make sure to mark with an |x which side of the line your stud goes. If you make your mark at 16", 32", 48".....(oc) not only will you have to layout your plates but you'll have to mark the center of your studs top and bottom taking more time and time=money or for all those hacks eyeball it (don't eyeball it)
+Mike Cunningham Hi Mike and thanks for the comment. You are right, I just did not want to get to deep with it at this moment. I have a video on a framing stick that I cover this with. Gene
opps... i have done the eyeball trick... haha something i find really well is to make a (jury stick) about 1x2inch by 4 foot long thats premarked and i just lay it agianst the plates and copy the marks over to the plates... a 4 footer will get you 3 - 16inch oc sets markings ... its easy fast and dosnt take very much tape measure work and eliminates alot on mis measurmente at the end of the day when your tired and wishing it was the prevurbial 5 pm
on dividing the 20 inch wide board into 4 or 3 equal sized boards ... you also want to add an 1/8th inch to each cut or the thickness of your saw blade going to be way off when you make your last cut ... so if you want it 5 inchs then make it 5-1/8" and make your cuts to the inside of the marks
+Prop Paper I thought the diagonal method of dividing the board was the coolest tip. I'm not sure you are right about the 1-8" addition for the saw blade. If the original width of the board was 10" and you measured on the diagonal to make it 20", then you should allow 1-4" for the saw blade. You double everything. It seems easy (just multiply by two), 'cause I used the round numbers, but I don't see how you could easily count the saw width if you started out with 13 3-8" and ran on the diagonal to get 20". I'd need a calculator! Only thing I can think of is to count up the saw blade width first (3-8" for 3 cuts) and then stick something that wide on the side of the board when you measure the diagonal. Course, then I still have to remember which side of the line to cut...
yes it is a great tip... but its similar to laying floor tile (reverse) and the grout lines are 1/4 inch wide as an example of 12 lines equals 3 inches which is 1/4 of a 12 inch tile you would be long if you think of a saw blade being 1/8th inch wide and you pre mark all your marks without adding the 1/8inch cut and as an example there are goung to be 8 cuts... your last piece would be 1 inch narrower then the 1st 7 pieces but if the last strip of wood is waste and you only wanted 7 strips out of the 8... then yes your good to go so your tip works really well without accounting for the width of the saw blade as long as that last strip is waste or as you mentioned and i fluffed over ... add up the number of saw blade cuts x the thickness of the blade then make your overall measurement ending at that point...aka if you have so many cuts multiplied by the saw blade thickness adds up to 1 inch mark your board off by 1inch at the end to account for the 1inch of saw blade cuts the point is... if you have a 4 inch wide board and want exactly 4 strips at 1 inch wide and the saw blade is 1/8Inch wide ... it wont be possiable because you will loose 3/8 inch on the last piece for the saw blade cuts but yes.. i do like your tip.. just add the thickness of the cutting blade to each strip as you mark it out or account for the total cuts multiplied by the blade thickness on the last cut. i hope that made scence
The first thing I do when I buy a new tool belt is to cut off the tape measure pouch and mount a 2 1/4" round magnet with a counter sunk hole to hold my 25" FatMax. The metal in the tape is enough to keep it securely in place and it's much faster than fumbling with a pouch or clip.
that is a good idea... i use sevral strips of masking tape looped over the edge of my pocket hem and that slows down the wear something else i do is i put several strips of masking tape to the front (big flat side) of my tape measure and right my measurement on it... there all ways there were i need them ... then just peel off and toss the masking tape and retape with masking for the next round of measurements .... easier and better then writting on my hands with an ink pen or scrap of wood in my pocket
+Peppi Kaċċa you're right, and hopefully people understand that, but I think it's just his quick test that gives hime a good enough idea that the material is probably square "enough". Do you have another quick tip that is about as easy but more accurate?
The 345 tip as with other tips in the video is not a “tape measure “ trick/tip it is a mathematical formula that can be done with any measuring device. Ok? It’s not limited to a tape measure as you are suggesting in the title. Ok?
Stop letting your tape slam home. You're prematurely wearing excess slack into the adjustable end. Pinch the blade between your fingers to stop it as it slams into your index finger.
When laying out studs, do not mark your crow foot (v)at 16, 32, 48, etc. Mark 15-1/4, 16-3/4, etc, so you are marking both sides of the stud. Same technique for 24" centers for rafters
"Even in Metric you use Half and quarter and eighth." - I don't get that. The trade use millimetres here in the UK but even if we used centimetres we wouldn't say 80 & 1/4 centimetres. Similarly dividing an inch (24.5mm) into 10 does not make it metric. Metric and Imperial are two different scales altogether.
The division into equal parts was awesome. Been constructing for 25 plus years.Worked side by side with some of the best. Never seen that one before. Thank you.
Very good. You showed me some things on this video that I have never seen, and I've watched a lot of videos on tape measures and tips for them. Thanks.
Great video, several tips I like a lot! Took me a moment for me to "get" the last one. Thank YOu
These tips are great ones, thank you!! H.A. Ocala, FL.
Some good tips that many don't know about. I just put out a similar video, but it ended up at 30 minutes, lol. I showed too many tips, so I cut it down to 17. I showed a few I don't see elsewhere like how to scribe straight lines and cut sheetrock with just a tape measure and knife. I also showed how laser measurers come in handy for inside measurements of rooms, high walls, etc. And how to mark a large circle, up to 50' if you needed, which I believe you showed here. Thanks
Good tips. I didn't know (or had forgotten) some of them.
Great tips, thanks for taking the time to make this video.
Some good tips there that I never knew. Thanks. N.
using a board with a known length to get an inside measurement is a good tip, but even easier is to check the lower part of the tape housing. The length of the housing itself is given.
Use this one all the time. Also draw a line say 12" off the end point. Now measure to the line and add 12. Way more accurate and faster then trying to push the backside of the tape to the end point and reading the tape.
if u fold your tape like Gene did to divide by 2, but instead of holding it on 40", hold it on 116". this represents the current year which of coarse is 2016. Then ask your partner what year he was born. lets say he says 1971. holding the tip on 116", look at the 71" mark on the tape.(1971). the number across from 71 would be 45. That is the age of your partner in 2016. dont forget next year to hold it on 117". great video Gene. dividing a board into equal pieces learned me . Thumbs up
I don't know how most people remember measurements, but I always thought I was good for remembering two. Then I realized that if I "saw" the third one, I didn't have to remember it. I just remembered what I saw.
Good stuff.
Thanks for sharing.
You rock! Thanks for the vid!
Great video. Thank you so much.
I use metric and I don't know if it is available in inches but I have found the Hultafors BT to be really great. It's in 5 or 8 meters.
Paul Ricalde on you tube suggested that instead of using that 10 inch piece of wood in order to avoid trying to read a tape measure curled up in a corner, is to simply measure from one side toward the centre an even number of inches and then from the opposite direction take the tape measure toward the first measurement (the even numbered measurement you first took ) and simply add the two numbers. This will give you an exact measurement of something without having to guess the length when the links falls in a corner and requires the tape measure to curl
Thank you very much for posting this. I don't understand some of your instructions though: On the push and Pull measurement: I am on clear as to what to do when I measure something and that gadget on the end moves when I am pulling - when I normally do is just ( as you yourself suggest ) is to start the measurement on 1 inch but, what are you suggesting to do otherwise ?
Hello Spencer. The tip of a tape measure slides on rivets back and forth the thickness of the tip.
Gene. Please help me understand. How can I know I am measuring correctly? If I pull the tape measure, the tip stretched at least 1/16. But if I measure with that tip against a corner, I bet I am losing 1/16. How do I know the true measurement if that end piece moves. I'm sorry but I just don't get it.
Hi Spencer. You are exactly right. That 1/16'" difference is the thickness of the tip of the tape. So if you push the tape into a corner it will slide 1/16" towards the tape. If you hook it to an outside corner of a room, it will slide out 1/16", the thickness of that tape tab. But here is the most important part... whenever possible, use the same tape for measuring and also when you go to cut the parts, because tapes will vary. Also make sure that tab at the end of the tape didn't get accidentally step on and is now not perfectly 90 degrees. Please note you can't always do what was said above. If you are on the roof measuring decking, you will call down to the guy on the ground who is actually cutting the plywood. I hope this helps. Gene
Thank you!
Loved the 10" tip
I have been using that DFW Crown trick since the day I saw it. I love it! His channel is now called Finish Carpentry TV.
He is fantastic.
I like to use a blue lead pencil, its easier to see. thanks for the great video!
When you said you have the tape with you every day I was expecting that you have it mounted on your jeans everywhere you go. ;)
that trick at 11.40. I've seen that once before in another video. I haven't needed to use it yet, but I can see how it'd sure come in handy. I hope I'll remember it when I'll eventually need to use it
Be aware that by using this method to divide a board you are finding the line positions that divide the board, not the fence setting for cutting the board. So, to make all boards the same width once they're cut, subtract the full width of your saw's kerf and make sure you run the last piece through the saw, too, so that all pieces will end up the same width. Besides this, realize that wood often has inner stresses such that a wide board that is straight and flat might yield two or more narrower boards that are warped. (The inner stresses are no longer balanced as they were when it was all one piece.) Therefore, don't count on getting the use of the complete width of the original board cut into x number of pieces. Figure that once you cut them apart you may need to true them up with a jointer and/or planer. I have learned from experience that it is wise to rough cut your wood close to its final width and thickness before jointing and planing.
very helpful video,sir I'm learning
the 16" mark is your oc (on center spacing) measurement so when laying out your plates you want to take half the dimension of the studs thickness and subtract it from 16",32",48".....(oc) {ex. if using 2Xs it will be -¾" ex. 15¼",31¼",47¼".....} just make sure to mark with an |x which side of the line your stud goes. If you make your mark at 16", 32", 48".....(oc) not only will you have to layout your plates but you'll have to mark the center of your studs top and bottom taking more time and time=money or for all those hacks eyeball it (don't eyeball it)
+Mike Cunningham Hi Mike and thanks for the comment. You are right, I just did not want to get to deep with it at this moment. I have a video on a framing stick that I cover this with. Gene
opps... i have done the eyeball trick... haha
something i find really well is to make a (jury stick) about 1x2inch by 4 foot long thats premarked and i just lay it agianst the plates and copy the marks over to the plates... a 4 footer will get you 3 - 16inch oc sets markings ... its easy fast and dosnt take very much tape measure work and eliminates alot on mis measurmente at the end of the day when your tired and wishing it was the prevurbial 5 pm
thank you very helpfull
on dividing the 20 inch wide board into 4 or 3 equal sized boards ... you also want to add an 1/8th inch to each cut or the thickness of your saw blade going to be way off when you make your last cut ... so if you want it 5 inchs then make it 5-1/8" and make your cuts to the inside of the marks
+Prop Paper I thought the diagonal method of dividing the board was the coolest tip. I'm not sure you are right about the 1-8" addition for the saw blade. If the original width of the board was 10" and you measured on the diagonal to make it 20", then you should allow 1-4" for the saw blade. You double everything. It seems easy (just multiply by two), 'cause I used the round numbers, but I don't see how you could easily count the saw width if you started out with 13 3-8" and ran on the diagonal to get 20". I'd need a calculator!
Only thing I can think of is to count up the saw blade width first (3-8" for 3 cuts) and then stick something that wide on the side of the board when you measure the diagonal. Course, then I still have to remember which side of the line to cut...
yes it is a great tip...
but its similar to laying floor tile (reverse) and the grout lines are 1/4 inch wide as an example of 12 lines equals 3 inches which is 1/4 of a 12 inch tile you would be long
if you think of a saw blade being 1/8th inch wide and you pre mark all your marks without adding the 1/8inch cut and as an example there are goung to be 8 cuts... your last piece would be 1 inch narrower then the 1st 7 pieces
but if the last strip of wood is waste and you only wanted 7 strips out of the 8... then yes your good to go
so your tip works really well without accounting for the width of the saw blade as long as that last strip is waste
or as you mentioned and i fluffed over ... add up the number of saw blade cuts x the thickness of the blade then make your overall measurement ending at that point...aka if you have so many cuts multiplied by the saw blade thickness adds up to 1 inch mark your board off by 1inch at the end to account for the 1inch of saw blade cuts
the point is... if you have a 4 inch wide board and want exactly 4 strips at 1 inch wide and the saw blade is 1/8Inch wide ... it wont be possiable because you will loose 3/8 inch on the last piece for the saw blade cuts
but yes.. i do like your tip.. just add the thickness of the cutting blade to each strip as you mark it out or account for the total cuts multiplied by the blade thickness on the last cut.
i hope that made scence
HI what you think about ryobi tools my friend thank you :)
For someone who uses a tape measure all the time you should know not to let it snap back onto the hook and damage it.☺
Patratatat he doesn't use it all the time, He only uses it when he's measuring! 😃
dfw crown moulding, Fort Worth TX - right?
Love that dude's vids
The first thing I do when I buy a new tool belt is to cut off the tape measure pouch and mount a 2 1/4" round magnet with a counter sunk hole to hold my 25" FatMax. The metal in the tape is enough to keep it securely in place and it's much faster than fumbling with a pouch or clip.
+Riptide 10x You rock Riptide 10x. Great idea. Gene
that is a good idea... i use sevral strips of masking tape looped over the edge of my pocket hem and that slows down the wear
something else i do is i put several strips of masking tape to the front (big flat side) of my tape measure and right my measurement on it... there all ways there were i need them ... then just peel off and toss the masking tape and retape with masking for the next round of measurements .... easier and better then writting on my hands with an ink pen or scrap of wood in my pocket
Riptide 10x genius
I switched over to Milwaukee tapes. So far my pocket is not getting tore up.
What are the little black diamonds on the tape for?
+Callum Stewart Thanks
Rafter spacing
@@pags30z The black diamonds are for spacing I joists.
I think I reach for my sixteen footer the most also, just for comforts sake.
16 ft good for under 20 ft but anything 20 ft and longer go with the 25ft
I put my pencil tip on the v I made and move square up to the pencil.
4:40 if the diagonals are equal, it does not in any way mean that a piece of wood is
square
+Peppi Kaċċa you're right, and hopefully people understand that, but I think it's just his quick test that gives hime a good enough idea that the material is probably square "enough". Do you have another quick tip that is about as easy but more accurate?
+Peppi Kaċċa If the edges of the material are perfectly straight and the diagonals are equal, the material is square.
Wow
He has it in his hand at least everyday he says? Lol.
I take the clip off mine that go in my tool belt
My Best tip. Get a decent Yardstick. (lol)
Or get a decent meter stick and use metric measurements.
A parallelogram measures the same on either of the two opposite sides and is not square. Basic trigonometry.
What you say is true BUT he measured the diagonals,that's the difference
The 345 tip as with other tips in the video is not a “tape measure “ trick/tip it is a mathematical formula that can be done with any measuring device. Ok? It’s not limited to a tape measure as you are suggesting in the title. Ok?
Stop letting your tape slam home.
You're prematurely wearing excess slack into the adjustable end.
Pinch the blade between your fingers to stop it as it slams into your index finger.
When laying out studs, do not mark your crow foot (v)at 16, 32, 48, etc. Mark 15-1/4, 16-3/4, etc, so you are marking both sides of the stud.
Same technique for 24" centers for rafters
The Stanley Leverlock (the OLD ones) are better IMO.
palqcho
Inch... inch.... WHYYYY still use inch ? Metric is the way
"Even in Metric you use Half and quarter and eighth." - I don't get that. The trade use millimetres here in the UK but even if we used centimetres we wouldn't say 80 & 1/4 centimetres. Similarly dividing an inch (24.5mm) into 10 does not make it metric. Metric and Imperial are two different scales altogether.
my rule has 10ths built in.
There are two types of countries those who use the metric system and those who have been to the moon.
Can you explain why you think it's better?
In metric system we use millimeters for very precise measurement. 1 meter has 1000 millimeters.
I'm j
A rectangle is square even if it's not a square. English.
Jim Fortune like a round hole with corners
Alvin Dueck Or a square with rounded corners.
Too slow man.
Zzzzzzzzzzzzzzzz you sound so slow, is there a speed button somewhere. I can't listen at this speed. Grrrrrr