Nice work guy at shop. This is a great example of what it takes to have a car setup correctly. Making room for the wheel and tires and having proper fitment with no rubbing requires much more than most people think. I love that your doing it all right bro!!
There are different ways to get more front camber, but this way seems the most logical and least labor intensive. Im definitely looking to get a set for my track car as well, thanks for the video!
Hey Matt do you remember which brand front spacers these were? The H&R 15mm spacers I just bought require you to change out the studs for longer ones to run them.
huge fan of your channel, congrats on the GT4, looks awesome! i know you don't have the CR anymore but real quick questions. do you think these origin fab offset bushings can stand the stress of multiple heavy track days? also, the upper control arm seems pretty close to the ohlins coilovers . . . any problem of them hitting each other or scraping? thanks so much in advance. i really need a solution for fender rub and this seems like a better solution than replacing the bottom ball joint.
Well I guess the liners help too, once you pushed it through one bushing set the other bushing on it and slowly start pressing it in. Smart move on his part to chamfer the edges.
So with those style upper control arm bushings you don't need to worry about preload when torquing them??? Just asking I'm sure others may have asked the question already.
Maybe I am thinking about it wrong, but don't you want to use the offset spacers to dial out some of the camber? Move the control arm out and not in? Lowering the car should have introduced more negative camber. Maybe the CR is better, but every Honda I have ever owned (5) didn't have a way the adjust out the negative camber after lowering (without adding adjustable ball joints), unless you count messing with the toe. Or are you adding more negative camber for clearance?
It needs to come in for the square set-up I'm forced to do if I want bigger brakes and retain 17s. 17x9.5 +50 and 255/40 upfront requires all this extra work just to fit bigger front brakes on the car. Will look like this: www.s2ki.com/forums/automotive-builds-284/king-tut-s-2006-ap2-rio-yellow-pearl-time-attack-build-1146094/
I thought the same thing, i'm always trying to dial out my front camber. From lowering 35-40mm it gives me a neg 3 degrees in natural camber. And that doesn't include my tops which can give an additional 4 negative. The minimum I can have is -2. Which isn't bad, but -1 would be better for tyre wear.
Nice work guy at shop. This is a great example of what it takes to have a car setup correctly. Making room for the wheel and tires and having proper fitment with no rubbing requires much more than most people think. I love that your doing it all right bro!!
Thank God for this video! I know it's old but I am going to do this on my S2000 this week and this video helped alot. Miss your S2000 videos lol
I believe the range in the torque for the ball joint is so you can line up the cotter pin.
Great video Matt. This guys experience gives confidence. Don't you just love normal guys with a wealth of knowledge.
There are different ways to get more front camber, but this way seems the most logical and least labor intensive. Im definitely looking to get a set for my track car as well, thanks for the video!
love how much you go into the details on this.
i always tighten the control arm bolts with the car on the ground, it's supposed to be better on the bushings.
That only applies to rubber bushings, not solid bushings.
It was nice having the videos chopped up into manageable segments
Hey Matt do you remember which brand front spacers these were? The H&R 15mm spacers I just bought require you to change out the studs for longer ones to run them.
They were H&R.
Matt, these videos are great 👍
huge fan of your channel, congrats on the GT4, looks awesome! i know you don't have the CR anymore but real quick questions. do you think these origin fab offset bushings can stand the stress of multiple heavy track days? also, the upper control arm seems pretty close to the ohlins coilovers . . . any problem of them hitting each other or scraping? thanks so much in advance. i really need a solution for fender rub and this seems like a better solution than replacing the bottom ball joint.
Were you able to get enough camber? Like -3 camber?
Pressing in those delrin bushings so each side lines up seems like it'd be a PITA!
I wasn't as bad as I thought it would have been.
Well I guess the liners help too, once you pushed it through one bushing set the other bushing on it and slowly start pressing it in. Smart move on his part to chamfer the edges.
I use two ball peen hammers for the ball joints set one on the arm and give it a good hit usually with one hit it comes off real easy
So with those style upper control arm bushings you don't need to worry about preload when torquing them??? Just asking I'm sure others may have asked the question already.
I'm pretty sure that doesn't matter.
its recommended to torque those bolts when the car is on the floor or you could jack up the car until it barely lifts off the ground.
I hope all the suspension work pans out - seems like a small fortune! This could turn out to be the most expensive S2000 in Fla. - LOL!
Ha, ha... It's adding up fast.
Maybe I am thinking about it wrong, but don't you want to use the offset spacers to dial out some of the camber? Move the control arm out and not in? Lowering the car should have introduced more negative camber. Maybe the CR is better, but every Honda I have ever owned (5) didn't have a way the adjust out the negative camber after lowering (without adding adjustable ball joints), unless you count messing with the toe. Or are you adding more negative camber for clearance?
It needs to come in for the square set-up I'm forced to do if I want bigger brakes and retain 17s. 17x9.5 +50 and 255/40 upfront requires all this extra work just to fit bigger front brakes on the car. Will look like this: www.s2ki.com/forums/automotive-builds-284/king-tut-s-2006-ap2-rio-yellow-pearl-time-attack-build-1146094/
I thought the same thing, i'm always trying to dial out my front camber. From lowering 35-40mm it gives me a neg 3 degrees in natural camber. And that doesn't include my tops which can give an additional 4 negative. The minimum I can have is -2. Which isn't bad, but -1 would be better for tyre wear.
Did you ever get any creaking noises from these bushings? I have the same ones and they started creaking after 3-4 weeks.
I didn't have any with mine, but I didn't keep the car long after doing this.
should have lubed bushings before installing.
All this suspension work.....it would be a crying shame if it never sees the track.
No it wouldnt taking a spirited drive would benefit from it aswell
It would be fun but you wouldn't enjoy all the benefits.
I don't care.
What is your Spacer size???
These were 15mm front and 25mm rear, but they rubbed in the rear.
Obsessed Garage Thank you for your reply sir, love watching your videos
Why do you even take your car to this guy!! Horrible work he does!!