Not the first sure.. but... Wow. I stumbled across your blog and I'm blown away and amazed that your are sharing this for free. Thankfully I have a handful of these lenses stocked up as I was planning on printing a fixed focus one for ages...
A few years ago I used a similar lens, built a cardboard camera to make solargraphs, I found that it covered the 6x6 format, with a focal length of 35mm, which made it extremely wide angle. It would be nice to build another more robust camera, but I don't know how to create the files for 3d printing
Simple and straightforward projects are the best projects! I can recommend Tinkercad ( www.tinkercad.com/ ) as a very convenient software to get started with modelling for 3d printing.
Im back. In my 3 week hiatus I have watched every other video on youtube and have determined yours are the best. I'm currently smoking 1kg of weed in the aim to forget having watched all your videos so I can get the fresh experience once more.
I have to admit, I appreciate this level of dedication yet I might be sceptical if these videos are a good pairing for a kilo of pot. I was told BBC documentaries are nice. Anyway, keep up the work and glad to hear that you enjoy the videos.
Following up from my previous comment... I have just printed the single lens variant and it's perfect; Excluding a few issues if using a resin printer... Thin pieces of resin don't fully block light. The focus ring and lens nut are the two problematic elements. I figure the solution to this is probably to just use a marker pen, black paint, or something on the problematic surfaces. Unfortunately I'm not in a position to test this as I'm actually still wating on my M2x6 DIN965 screws to finish the lens. I may have also made a small mistake by not figuring out the tolerance compensation required for my printer.. had to remove some material around the helicoid to get the inner ring and focus ring together. They were pretty close mind you.
Getting threads to work is always the most annoying part. If you are using Fusion360 you can adjust the tolerances for the inner and outer threads with the face offset command (I added a 0.15mm offset already, this can be increased/decreased in the timeline). Hope it works well for you, have fun!
I can't check, but I would assume it's aspherical. It's just injection moulded PMMA or PC so using an aspherical design would be very little extra cost per piece. It doesn't seem to be coated, there is no color tint visible in the reflections of the light on the lens. Probably that's just a few cents too much for something that's bound for the landfill.
Mount worked great on my nex-5n. But i stumbled upon an error once trying to use it: “cannot recognize lens. Please attach it properly “. Anyone knows how to fix this?
Hello my friend, first I would like to thank you for the video and for inspiring me to think and desire to create something similar. I have a Sony a7rV, and I want to do a similar project and use your 3D file. I don't have a disposable camera, and I thought that buying a lens made of glass would allow me to get a better optical result. What are the measurements that I should order? I would really appreciate it if you could help me, and maybe we could talk by email/another way ❤️
I would guess that using a single glass lens would decrease and not improve the image quality. There is quite some clever engineering involved in making these aspherical plastic lenses. If you buy a singe off-the-shelf glass lens you'll have some new problems (different optical aberrations). If you still want to try that I would recommend to select a lens from the Thorlabs or Edmund Optics catalogue first and then design a lens housing around the dimensions and focal length of that lens. In the linked blog post you can find the Fusion360 design files if you want to use these as a starting point.
yes. if the flange distance is 18mm your lens should have a focal length longer than that otherwise the lens would need to be able to move slightly into the camera housing to focus at infinity.
Then you're using a plastic lens with a different focal length or the Nikon has a different flange distance and you didn't adjust the mount part for the difference. If you can't focus on infinitely-far away objects the distance between lens and sensor is too large. Getting it right is ultimately a matter of trail and error with unknown disposable lenses. You can adjust the distance as a parameter in the Fusion360 model and reprint the large base plastic part which holds the lens.
Erstmal danke für die 3D Druck Dateien und die ausführliche Anleitung. Bei dem Objektiv mit einer Linse ist es mir leider nicht möglich Objektive in einer Entfernung von mehr als 30cm scharf zu stellen. Ich habe hierbei die gleiche Kamera benutzt. Gibt es hierfür eine Lösung? Danke im Voraus!
Dann ist die Linse etwas zu weit vom Sensor entfernt (oder die Linse die Du verwendest hat eine etwas geringere Brennweite). Im Blogbeitrag sind die Fusion360 Dateien verlinkt, der Abstand der Linse zum Sensor kann man da als eine Variable ändern: help.autodesk.com/view/fusion360/ENU/?guid=SLD-MODIFY-CHANGE-PARAMETERS Das ist ein wenig Fummelarbeit mit Neuausdrucken und Ausprobieren um für eine unbekannte Linse den genauen Abstand zu finden, aber wenn man nahe genug dran ist macht das Fokusgewinde den Rest.
Short answer: you could, but you couldn't focus to infinity. Long answer: the distance between lens mount and sensor is 44mm for Canon EF lenses (and similar for other DSLR cameras) to accommodate the mirror. If you would place the disposable camera lens with ~30mm focal length right at the lens mount of the DSLR you could only use It as a close-up macro lens because you could never move the the lens close enough to the sensor to get a focus at objects more than a meter (or so) away.
@@vlztn I tried it on a Canon 700d (DSLR) and it's true that it can only focus at a distance of 3-5cm. Can I improve this lens with a long plastic tube to attach to the body cap? How long is good enough?
so, I'll be trying to adapt this idea to a dslr lens. to correct for the flange focal distance, i guess you could add a diverging lens before the point of convergence (like glasses for the nearsighted) of the disposable lens? how would you go about calculating the right specs ?
I guess that would work. The easiest way to tinker around with lenses is this website: opticexplorer.sharedigm.com/ You don't need to use lens assemblies made of multiple single lenses, you can just use two single lenses and adjust some distances. An estimate of the correct distance from the website should be enough for you to design and print a physical part and do the adjustments in the distances with a bit of paper as spacers or focus screws. The most straightforward way to get a decent selection of lenses and worldwide shipping is Edmund Optics or Thorlabs.
Hi! Maybe my question is silly, but... what is the minimum distance to keep between the lens itself and the sensor? I built one, drilling a camera body cap, and placing the lens in the inside of it, I think it's too close because it does not focus at all
If the distance between lens and sensor is exactly the same as the focal length of the lens, objects at infinity are in focus. Most disposable camera lenses have a focal length somewhere between 30-35 millimetres, the flange distance (metal ring to sensor surface) is 18mm for Sony E-mount cameras, so you probably need to move the lens a centimetre in away from the camera.
possible: yes, but it would not be much of a benefit. The single plastic lens has pretty bad optical aberrations (sharpness, vignette, ...) compared to optical systems with multiple glass elements. The designers did solve this problem by using the lens only with the very small fixed aperture. With an adjustable aperture one could open it up (and the image would get pretty soft probably) or close it down further (probably after two or three stops diffraction would be an issue)
@@vlztn Thanks, I have an old Film Yashika Electra 35 lens that used to be radium coated. I am keen to use that on my Sony A7RV, but I don't know how to build adapter for that
The basic principle would be the same but the distance between lens and sensor would need to be much longer so it works as a macro. Probably it would be easier to design a new housing from scratch instead of adjusting the one I did for the disposable camera lens.
Anyone using this with an A7Rii with success? I printed one, and the entire focus ring is visible when screwed either completely down or as far out as it can go. As in, I see mostly the color (red in my case). The only way the 3d print doesn't obstruct the sensor is if I take the focus ring off completely, leaving just the e-mount adapter locked into the camera, but of course that serves no purpose.
1:40 I've never really understood - what about the disposable cameras made it impossible to just put new film in them? Why would the factory have to make new ones when they could automate a process to reload then with film?
I guess making a machine complex enough to open the enclosure that has been unloaded by some random lab technician previously, reload a film, close it again and ensure it is light tight was deemed not economical.
The issue came down to the lack of financial incentives for photofinishers to attempt to salvage a disposable camera... no manufacturers were buying the old carcasses. They could not be resold by photofinishers that were also camera retailers so that even while we could open them carefully and reload them to do so would be fraud. Then there was potential issue of battery reliability when reused repeatedly. I used to give used ones away until it got tiring, then just cracked them open the fastest way possible to extract the film. Whenever anyone brought in a disposable to have film developed I'd sell them a cheap reusable camera instead of letting them buy a disposable. Now they're pretty much dead thankfully
No, I own only Sony E-mount cameras. If you are familiar with Fusion360 you can design your own flange adapter for the X-mount and reuse all the other parts. CAD files can be found in the blog post linked in the description.
![$20 Vintage Body Cap Lens [35mm Disposable ➡️ Sony A7iv]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/85anPWgMwaQ/mqdefault.jpg)
Thank you for making your design free and accessible for all photography lovers
now put e-mount on disposable camera
Yes this lmao
Not the first sure.. but... Wow. I stumbled across your blog and I'm blown away and amazed that your are sharing this for free. Thankfully I have a handful of these lenses stocked up as I was planning on printing a fixed focus one for ages...
Would be weird to charge money for something very basic and everyone is better off if most people share their stuff.
@@vlztn That is certainly true. I always share my models and code!
A few years ago I used a similar lens, built a cardboard camera to make solargraphs, I found that it covered the 6x6 format, with a focal length of 35mm, which made it extremely wide angle. It would be nice to build another more robust camera, but I don't know how to create the files for 3d printing
Simple and straightforward projects are the best projects! I can recommend Tinkercad ( www.tinkercad.com/ ) as a very convenient software to get started with modelling for 3d printing.
A trillion thanks for the idea, the video, all your efforts in, and the blog and the 3d files ! You're awesome!
Im back. In my 3 week hiatus I have watched every other video on youtube and have determined yours are the best. I'm currently smoking 1kg of weed in the aim to forget having watched all your videos so I can get the fresh experience once more.
I have to admit, I appreciate this level of dedication yet I might be sceptical if these videos are a good pairing for a kilo of pot. I was told BBC documentaries are nice.
Anyway, keep up the work and glad to hear that you enjoy the videos.
@@vlztn Bro... you where right, I'm way to high for this RN 🤣
Following up from my previous comment... I have just printed the single lens variant and it's perfect; Excluding a few issues if using a resin printer...
Thin pieces of resin don't fully block light. The focus ring and lens nut are the two problematic elements. I figure the solution to this is probably to just use a marker pen, black paint, or something on the problematic surfaces. Unfortunately I'm not in a position to test this as I'm actually still wating on my M2x6 DIN965 screws to finish the lens.
I may have also made a small mistake by not figuring out the tolerance compensation required for my printer.. had to remove some material around the helicoid to get the inner ring and focus ring together. They were pretty close mind you.
Getting threads to work is always the most annoying part. If you are using Fusion360 you can adjust the tolerances for the inner and outer threads with the face offset command (I added a 0.15mm offset already, this can be increased/decreased in the timeline). Hope it works well for you, have fun!
Super cool! Is the lens aspherical? Do you think it has some strange coating or is it a clear PMMA/acrylic piece of plastic?
I can't check, but I would assume it's aspherical. It's just injection moulded PMMA or PC so using an aspherical design would be very little extra cost per piece. It doesn't seem to be coated, there is no color tint visible in the reflections of the light on the lens. Probably that's just a few cents too much for something that's bound for the landfill.
@@vlztn Makes sense. Thanks for the reply and the good content.
I was thinking a what if, if we use those go pro replacement lens for this how would that look
Lots of great info and thanks for the files - Cheers!
Mount worked great on my nex-5n. But i stumbled upon an error once trying to use it: “cannot recognize lens. Please attach it properly “. Anyone knows how to fix this?
Probably you'll need to enable the "trigger without lens" option in the menu (might be called slightly different).
Excellent! I have an old Olympus e10 with an amazing lens but it doesn't work anymore. I'd love to reuse it
hey, do you have a project 3D adapter for a camera with an E mount input for a Micro 4/3 lens?
Hello my friend, first I would like to thank you for the video and for inspiring me to think and desire to create something similar. I have a Sony a7rV, and I want to do a similar project and use your 3D file. I don't have a disposable camera, and I thought that buying a lens made of glass would allow me to get a better optical result. What are the measurements that I should order? I would really appreciate it if you could help me, and maybe we could talk by email/another way ❤️
I would guess that using a single glass lens would decrease and not improve the image quality. There is quite some clever engineering involved in making these aspherical plastic lenses. If you buy a singe off-the-shelf glass lens you'll have some new problems (different optical aberrations). If you still want to try that I would recommend to select a lens from the Thorlabs or Edmund Optics catalogue first and then design a lens housing around the dimensions and focal length of that lens. In the linked blog post you can find the Fusion360 design files if you want to use these as a starting point.
@@vlztn thanks!
If the FFD is 18mm , I need an F18 lens at least?
yes. if the flange distance is 18mm your lens should have a focal length longer than that otherwise the lens would need to be able to move slightly into the camera housing to focus at infinity.
I made it to adapt to my nikon but it only focuses really close, i did the first design, is there a way to remedy this?
Then you're using a plastic lens with a different focal length or the Nikon has a different flange distance and you didn't adjust the mount part for the difference. If you can't focus on infinitely-far away objects the distance between lens and sensor is too large. Getting it right is ultimately a matter of trail and error with unknown disposable lenses. You can adjust the distance as a parameter in the Fusion360 model and reprint the large base plastic part which holds the lens.
Second video of yours and it’s also a banger!
Erstmal danke für die 3D Druck Dateien und die ausführliche Anleitung. Bei dem Objektiv mit einer Linse ist es mir leider nicht möglich Objektive in einer Entfernung von mehr als 30cm scharf zu stellen. Ich habe hierbei die gleiche Kamera benutzt. Gibt es hierfür eine Lösung?
Danke im Voraus!
Dann ist die Linse etwas zu weit vom Sensor entfernt (oder die Linse die Du verwendest hat eine etwas geringere Brennweite). Im Blogbeitrag sind die Fusion360 Dateien verlinkt, der Abstand der Linse zum Sensor kann man da als eine Variable ändern: help.autodesk.com/view/fusion360/ENU/?guid=SLD-MODIFY-CHANGE-PARAMETERS
Das ist ein wenig Fummelarbeit mit Neuausdrucken und Ausprobieren um für eine unbekannte Linse den genauen Abstand zu finden, aber wenn man nahe genug dran ist macht das Fokusgewinde den Rest.
Super, vielen Dank für die schnelle Antwort! Schönen Abend!
i wonder if i can use such a lens on dslr cameras (for example aps-c canon 200d/250d or nikon)
Short answer: you could, but you couldn't focus to infinity. Long answer: the distance between lens mount and sensor is 44mm for Canon EF lenses (and similar for other DSLR cameras) to accommodate the mirror. If you would place the disposable camera lens with ~30mm focal length right at the lens mount of the DSLR you could only use It as a close-up macro lens because you could never move the the lens close enough to the sensor to get a focus at objects more than a meter (or so) away.
@@vlztn I tried it on a Canon 700d (DSLR) and it's true that it can only focus at a distance of 3-5cm. Can I improve this lens with a long plastic tube to attach to the body cap? How long is good enough?
@@congfj9549The longer the tube, the higher the magnification. Experiment and find out what works well for you.
so, I'll be trying to adapt this idea to a dslr lens. to correct for the flange focal distance, i guess you could add a diverging lens before the point of convergence (like glasses for the nearsighted) of the disposable lens? how would you go about calculating the right specs ?
I guess that would work. The easiest way to tinker around with lenses is this website: opticexplorer.sharedigm.com/ You don't need to use lens assemblies made of multiple single lenses, you can just use two single lenses and adjust some distances. An estimate of the correct distance from the website should be enough for you to design and print a physical part and do the adjustments in the distances with a bit of paper as spacers or focus screws. The most straightforward way to get a decent selection of lenses and worldwide shipping is Edmund Optics or Thorlabs.
@@vlztn thank you very much!
Hi! Maybe my question is silly, but... what is the minimum distance to keep between the lens itself and the sensor? I built one, drilling a camera body cap, and placing the lens in the inside of it, I think it's too close because it does not focus at all
If the distance between lens and sensor is exactly the same as the focal length of the lens, objects at infinity are in focus. Most disposable camera lenses have a focal length somewhere between 30-35 millimetres, the flange distance (metal ring to sensor surface) is 18mm for Sony E-mount cameras, so you probably need to move the lens a centimetre in away from the camera.
@@vlztn you are very kind and patient :) thank you!
Can you send the link for the 3d print please 🙏
You can find all the links and some notes for assembly in the blog post linked in the description
do you think its possible to 3D print an adjustable aperture ring in this lens mount
possible: yes, but it would not be much of a benefit. The single plastic lens has pretty bad optical aberrations (sharpness, vignette, ...) compared to optical systems with multiple glass elements. The designers did solve this problem by using the lens only with the very small fixed aperture. With an adjustable aperture one could open it up (and the image would get pretty soft probably) or close it down further (probably after two or three stops diffraction would be an issue)
@@vlztn Thanks, I have an old Film Yashika Electra 35 lens that used to be radium coated. I am keen to use that on my Sony A7RV, but I don't know how to build adapter for that
hi just wanna ask if the kodak funsave disposable lens is the same size as the one used in the video?
No, I never tried any Funsaver lenses, but there might be a remix on printables.com suitable for these.
@@vlztn thanks!
i try to build it too, but i use analog camera from (I don't remember but it grey) but it macro, so why to use it to normal camera lens?
I'm not sure if I understand the question correctly...
@@vlztnin the point is, i try to make dispolens using analog pocket lens, but it macro, cannot to take building like yours
The basic principle would be the same but the distance between lens and sensor would need to be much longer so it works as a macro. Probably it would be easier to design a new housing from scratch instead of adjusting the one I did for the disposable camera lens.
maybe I should buy one of those. 15 dollars.
Comes with film
lens
capacitor
and 1 battery.
1:36
That's probably a reversed video of an assembly line to fool people into thinking they were re-using parts 😂😂😂
And where did you get your disposable cameras?
Got it cheaply as very old stock from a local analogue photo shop a few years ago. Wouldn't buy one again today.
Anyone using this with an A7Rii with success? I printed one, and the entire focus ring is visible when screwed either completely down or as far out as it can go. As in, I see mostly the color (red in my case). The only way the 3d print doesn't obstruct the sensor is if I take the focus ring off completely, leaving just the e-mount adapter locked into the camera, but of course that serves no purpose.
1:40 I've never really understood - what about the disposable cameras made it impossible to just put new film in them? Why would the factory have to make new ones when they could automate a process to reload then with film?
I guess making a machine complex enough to open the enclosure that has been unloaded by some random lab technician previously, reload a film, close it again and ensure it is light tight was deemed not economical.
The issue came down to the lack of financial incentives for photofinishers to attempt to salvage a disposable camera... no manufacturers were buying the old carcasses. They could not be resold by photofinishers that were also camera retailers so that even while we could open them carefully and reload them to do so would be fraud. Then there was potential issue of battery reliability when reused repeatedly.
I used to give used ones away until it got tiring, then just cracked them open the fastest way possible to extract the film. Whenever anyone brought in a disposable to have film developed I'd sell them a cheap reusable camera instead of letting them buy a disposable. Now they're pretty much dead thankfully
I doubt that the plastic and electronics cost more to make than 3 dollars in chyna.
Thank you, some bozo sold the files for $10...
You're welcome. Sold similar files or the specifically the ones I uploaded?
@@vlztn suppose same files, only difference was a big watermark on focus ring
You should do asmr.
Hi, just wondering do you have it for Fujifilm X mount? 🥹
No, I own only Sony E-mount cameras. If you are familiar with Fusion360 you can design your own flange adapter for the X-mount and reuse all the other parts. CAD files can be found in the blog post linked in the description.