The gearbox output shaft and the final drive UV joint are often "phased" so its important to ensure the keyed portion of the splines are lined up. Otherwise the shaft will be unbalanced and vibrate. Some models are like this others are not, so check first.
Small tip, always first remove the filling plug. If any previous owner molested the inner hex of the filling plug, you wont get stranded with an empty final drive that you can't refill. (dont ask me how i found this one out :-( )
These bearings is a permanent pain of this model, especially if you ride gravels & offroad. I made two polyoxymethylene (POM) bushings to replace bearings & installed it. I rode ~5000 km (include 2000 km of bad roads & gravel) all OK! If it will working well at 20-25k km, it will be very well! 1000mm×40mm POM rod costs approx 1500 RUR (20-25 USD) and some lathe work - cheapest replacement!
Very well done video! Should the bearings be torqued in the inverted sequence? RHS first because is is fixed, then the LHS for proper conical bearings compression, and finally the RHS locking nut?
When I bought mine I was told to torque to 160nm but my friends say its too much for these new bearings and just take the right one to 80nm and just 'nip' up the inside one. Can someone clarify?
The gearbox output shaft and the final drive UV joint are often "phased" so its important to ensure the keyed portion of the splines are lined up. Otherwise the shaft will be unbalanced and vibrate. Some models are like this others are not, so check first.
Can you clarify phased please? Are there markings?
Indeed.
Markings of original position helps before taking apart.
@@douglasdickson6986 Markings no but it's quite obvious as there is a wider gap between splines which has to be aligned with the shaft.
Y ou ought put the bearings in fridge for a night that is easier to insert great job
If the original bearings are cleaned and re greased just sometimes it helps.
Much easier an cheaper.
Use a long term water resistant grease.
Small tip, always first remove the filling plug. If any previous owner molested the inner hex of the filling plug, you wont get stranded with an empty final drive that you can't refill. (dont ask me how i found this one out :-( )
An other small tip.
Do use PTFE tape as sealant. Prevents corrosion steel /aluminum and makes easy to remove next time.
Always works and never leaks.
Крутые динамометрические ключи, а подшипник забивает молотком
What’s the torque settings for the left hand side of the arm along with the Big lock nut plz
Put your bushings in a freezer first....makes installation easy...
Ice spray
These bearings is a permanent pain of this model, especially if you ride gravels & offroad. I made two polyoxymethylene (POM) bushings to replace bearings & installed it. I rode ~5000 km (include 2000 km of bad roads & gravel) all OK! If it will working well at 20-25k km, it will be very well! 1000mm×40mm POM rod costs approx 1500 RUR (20-25 USD) and some lathe work - cheapest replacement!
Very well done video!
Should the bearings be torqued in the inverted sequence?
RHS first because is is fixed, then the LHS for proper conical bearings compression, and finally the RHS locking nut?
Correctamundo!
Hello! Thanks you movie! It is very helpfull! Where can i buy these ball bearings? I have r1100r from 1996. I am living in the EU! Thanks a lot!
Nice watch mate... what model please?
When I bought mine I was told to torque to 160nm but my friends say its too much for these new bearings and just take the right one to 80nm and just 'nip' up the inside one. Can someone clarify?
Lager in die Gefriertruhe für 24 Stunden und dann Teil wo das Lager rein soll erwärmen. Dann flutscht das von alleine. 🙋🏽♂️
Что то ты неправельно затяжки делаешь . Подшипники не так тянут.
ต้องเอาไปให้เซอร์วิสบ้างแล้ว
PONG UNIONART CHANNEl ไปหาดใหญ่แล้วผมจะแวะไป PJ Motorrad นะครับ
fınal drıver biraz uğraştırıyor orayı kesmişsin..
I'm glad you're not working on my bikes !! Jesus