We called them 'cabinet scrap0ers' at school in late 1960s. Used them all the time. At my boarding school, they used to open art school, science labs, and woodwork shop for four sessions - Tuesday, Thursday afternoons, Saturday evening, Sundays - 7 hours total. Teacher wasn't a teacher, he was head of maintenance and was, himself, a master carpenter
True, and the wood pores are less cluttered with dust. That told I have also to tell that the surface that comes from a properly tuned and used hand plane is even better, off course to prepare and use a hand plane to get that result needs much more skill and experience then to tune and use a scraper and certain pieces of wood are very difficult to plane, but is the faster and better way to get a perfect surface most of the times. The difference of quality in the surface is even more apparent if you use oil for finishing.
@@andreachinaglia5804 Thanks for your insight, I'll keep that in mind. I've been working with tamarack and cedar. With scraping the knots don't seem to cause too much of a problem so far.
@@TheOneMastodon I tested it comparing the surface obtained by planing vs the surface obtained with 3 different top quality orbital sanders, Festo, Makita and Bosh, equipped with quality sand paper: the surface appears to be very close, but as you apply some oil on it the one from the plane looks much better. I did that at a woodworkers meeting many years ago and all those that was there, some professional workers and some advanced amateurs, agreed about the surface obtained by planing being superior as soon as the oil was applied. There are probably 2 reasons why: the surface is obtained by a cut and not something that scratches the wood and the pores are not cluttered with sawdust. After that test I gradually shifted from the hand held electric sanders to the planes that I use even to "sand" plywood. Using the planes is also better as there is no noise or dust (that is not so healthy to breath), so ear and lung protection is not needed and is fast, much faster then any hand held electric sander. I am not talking of theory or of some test done and soon forgotten, I am talking of something that I am doing in my real life woodworking in the last 15 years or so, I own a very good and expensive orbital sander, but I had used it very seldom in the last 15 years as the hand plane is much more efficient and pleasant to use (if you have the needed skill in preparing, setting and using it). If the plane is not suited for the particular work, some woods and some grain orientations are problematic even with a perfectly tuned plane, you can judge by yourself how the card scraper is fast and effective watching the video.
@@TheOneMastodonIit's a super easy experiment, give it a try. You can also pull a scraper instead of pushing it. Works great for inside curves and inside corners.
THIS IS JUST LIKE RE INVENTING THE WHEEL . i am 58 yeas old my grandad taught me how to use a spoke shave and how to hone a scraper blade . to this day i still have scraper blades that are profiled to produce radiuses and profiles the type you cant even get thease days . i never forgot that skill . my home to this day has dado rails and skirting i reproduced from the original forms . IE . my 10 inch skirting i made by hand look's like it has been there from the day the house was built , [ i could not even get the original profile . so i made my own ] THANKS GRANDAD YOU TOUGHT ME A REAL SKILL :)
Sanding cloth embeds the sawdust into the woodgrain pores. A good luthier uses scrapers to get a fine finish because embedding sawdust into the grain kills the vibrations and thus dulls the musical sound
Wood guitars have a gloss coat. So, I can't understand what you mean. The point is to use a grit so fine nothing is getting into the grain. Sawdust particulates, even visible ones, are NOT "killing vibrations."
@@TotalDec guitars are not the only instruments made by luthiers, and they are one of a few that are less affected by sanding. But try sanding vs scraping on a world class violin and there will certainly be a difference
I offered to help a friend remove and re-varnish two beautiful Thames rowing skiffs. I assumes he would use a mix of chemical strippers and electric sanders. No, 100% done by hand with scrapers, with minor hand sanding. It took much less time that I would have thought the finish was great, and no power sander dust and messy chemicals. The next week I bought my own scrapper set.
Man, i really like your channel. I inherited about half of a woodshop and im just getting started on this journey. Thanks for all the good information!
I'm a musical instrument maker who specializes in historical bows. Starting about thirty years ago, I completely stopped using sandpaper, finishing the surface with scrapers of various kinds, and then polishing with equisetum (horsetails) and/or mammoth dust (a byproduct here). This is close to the way things were done hundreds of years ago- it doesn't have the boring perfection of sanded surfaces, but it saves time and (in my opinion) looks more alive.
I use a card scraper all the time. I like the little touches that are included in this kit to make it easier to get a nice square edge. Always impressed with things like this from Taylor Toolworks.
I must tell you that I did buy an Accu-Burr, and after years of struggling to sharpen my card scrapers, this little gizmo is the real deal. Beautiful glorious shavings instead of dust. Thanks for the FYI, James.
Ok well my jaw is 100 percent on the floor, until 6 minutes ago I didn't know you could just scrape a piece of wood instead of sanding it. That is insane and I think I might be about to spend a bunch of money, damn
Scrapers and all the crap you need to make em work are pretty cheap and you've only gotta buy em once. Think of how much you'll save on sandpaper in the long run. It's a ridiculous bargain.
Thanks, James! As an experienced woodworker, some videos are spent nodding along and saying "yup, knew that" but there are plenty of useful new gems in your collection too - like this one!
That's a great kit setup! I tried and failed with scrapers for years until I tried lightening up. I was trying to KILL the metal with the burnisher for years and always failed. Turned out I was likely forming too large a burr and rolling it over too far. So it would only cut when the scraper was laid way over at some crazy angle. And being so big a burr it broke off and dulled very quickly. It was only a few months ago that the fast rapid swipes shown in various videos made me lighten up and use a firm but not crazy hard pressure. And it worked GREAT!. My shavings are now coming off like the ones in this video. And the sharpness is lasting just like you're saying. So firm, not heavy is the key. And more strokes rather than heavier if needed. Less is more in this case.
I built a clamp just like that 15 years ago. The one thing I never did was polish the flats. I gotta try that!, Here's a burnishing tip for those without that little tool. I raise the scraper 1/16th above the flat edge of the clamp, and use the edge of the clamp to set the angle of my old valve push rod burnisher. another great video!
A scraper was a recent tool i heard about for finishing 3d prints. Apparently its a great tool for smoothing layer lines without using all the sandpaper in the universe. One of the few tools im looking at making for myself to simplify my life.
A sharp plane blade can also be used as a scraper. I have also used freshly broken window glass for scraping curved work, just need to find a piece the right shape. 🙂👍🇦🇺
Scrapers and their maintenance have always fallen into my “Voodoo tools” category of stuff that my hands don’t instinctively understand. After watching this video my hands have given me permission to buy one small one😊
A burnisher just needs to be harder than the scraper, and perfectly smooth. Screwdrivers make poor burnishers because they are not machined very smooth. But engine push-rods make good burnishers.
@@sliceofbread2611 The shape of the one I showed makes it easier to use (as I explained in the video) but any smooth, rod-shaped, extra-hard material will work. You will just have to adapt your technique and practice a bit.
Went out to the shop made the holder jig,used a flat General Steel Rule and some 1000,1500 emery.can’t believe how nice the scrapers came out.Made the magnet holder too.THANKS Stumpy
I've not long been a woodworker, just 3 years so I've got a lot to learn. I saw an old German woodworker who showed me what he used, instead of sandpaper on wood, he said he was never given sandpaper as an apprentice, instead he used a handful of shavings and burnished the wood that way. Although I use whatever shavings I've just been planning, I found oak shavings to be the best in my humble opinion.
Interesting, basically taking the "ruler trick" for hand plane back flattening and applying it to the card scrapper, followed by a Burnisher (which I really like). The jig is a great way to be consistent as well, I know I have to stop and think about all the steps since I don't use them often and sharpen them even less often because of that. I can probably make up s similar jig/kit from parts in the shop so I'll have to give this a a go. I find my card scrapers to be very inconsistent, but maybe I need to sharpen them more.
I really like using card scrapers. I do like using my larger diameter burnisher. It applies less pressure but makes a cleaner hook. For certain purposes I use smaller scrapers withan angle on the end to get into corners. Also, particularly with those scrapers, I file the edge to an angle and burnish a hook on only one side--(like the blade in the Stanley scraper plane that looks like a spokeshave with a very wide bed). Takes of large shavings from hard to reach places on glued up cabinet work and boat deck structures.
Taylor Tools is great. I just picked up my newest TayTools package off the front porch with my new rules from the last video! Great service and selection. And for this great tip, I already have a scary sharp system, so now off to make the wood pieces and get a burnisher!
Great video. Love Taylor Tools ever since the first time I heard you talk about them on your channel I’ve bought many things from them thanks for sharing
I learned to sharpen card scrapers while working in a ski repair shop over 30 years ago. But this system will certainly obtain much more consistent results. Very nice setup.
I’ve had a pair of scrappers for a few years now. Never used them. I must have been feeling old timey when I bought them. I think you just changed my mind on using them.
James, I saw this on their website a little while back and went for it because I tried a few times to sharpen my scraper but didn't have much success. Well, this kit/process really worked. Puts a really nice burr on the card. This really did the trick for me.
Just re watched this vid.I made the jigs but forgot how they worked.By the way,the scrapers I sharpened after I first made and used this method are still sharp as hell.
I have had very good experiences with Taylor Toolworks from multiple orders. Excellent products, good prices, and great sales. And, unlike many espams, I look forward to their frequent emails. I shop, I covet, and I learn things. Not at all bad!
Great video thank you. One of the coolest features of scraping is that the finish is more beautiful than what you get from sanding. The surface from sanding appears dull by comparison to scraping.
There are even planes that use a card scraper and if you adjust them correctely you can use them instead of sanding between voats of shell lack. Also for sculptural pieces a flexible card scraper can be made from old blades from japan saws.
It took me exactly one good look at how much sandpaper costs to justify spending the time to learn how to sharpen one of these. They are way, way quicker, than sandpaper and deliver better results. Also they come free with every dispensible japanese saw you buy.
Unfortunately I cannot get it shipped to Europe. But I do appreciate the knowledge, makes it easier to give it a try. As an hobby woodworker with no experience with card scrapers in my network, it was always a bit daunting to try it.
Glass works just as well. I know one guy who always carved using glass. Some of the hardest word (lignum vitae) he used to carve busts. Each time it blunts, cut a new edge or a new piece of glass.
I have arthritis in both my thumbs and as a result I cannot hold a card scraper but I found a tool that holds the scraper at the right angle so I can continue to use a scraper, I too hate sanding.
When i started using these for finishing 3D prints... i have not bought new sandpaper in a year now. The edge needs to be FAR less aggressive for plastic but it cuts down time to about a fifth.. Basically, what you want then is as sharp of a 90 degree angle as possible, with just a very tiny lip. I have one that has just the 90 degree edge that i alternate based on the needs. Sometime even a tiny lip will "catch" and dig into the piece a bit too much.
This is pretty close to how you dress frets on a guitar for anyone that is interested in that particular skill. Lots of other factors, but the Sharpie honing idea is where it starts.
@@StumpyNubs I know, my gooseneck is still in its factory shape because I get started on it and fight it and grab a file and sandpaper 🤣. Maybe one day when you're really bored you can do the gooseneck and the arch.
Expensive video! I had no choice once I saw this, I had to buy the kit and the burnisher. Please hold off for a while before you recommend anything else this good!
Very interesting; I’ve never used a card scraper: May I ask if it’s good just for finishing or if can be used for varnish removal as well? Thanks for sharing the video, informative as always
Yes, scrapers can be used to remove varnish, but they may dull quicker on thicker, harder coats. You may need to make a lesser, thus stronger "hook". Where they shine is for smoothing the wood. Because they "shave" rather than scratch (like sanding paper), they leave the surface very smooth, almost shiny on hard woods. Always scrape along the grain or at a slight angle. You will need the tool to burnish it (and a file or stone to reset worn hooks). Together with the burnisher, it may seem expensive ($25-45), but unlike sand paper, they will last you indefinitely (and easy to clean if the clog along the hook with paint or varnish). And they make a nicer job. When you push it, you need to bend the scraper in a slight bow forward (the more bow, the more aggressive the shaving) and also lean it forward. It is a fantastic, cheap tool. Probably best to buy from a reputable store as it needs to be made of the proper steel. Or, if buying on-line, check the reviews. One last thing, you may find that on some planks, the scraper works best in one direction, that is "downhill" of the grain (a bit like a router). That can be a problem on woods like burl and fiddle back veneers where the grain orientation changes frequently. If you need to go "uphill" of the grain, go very lightly. Once you get the hang of it, you don't look back.
@@yl9154 it sounds like a great tool indeed. thank you very much pal for taking the time to explaining it to me in such a detailed way: I’ll keep these insights handy !
I have shaky hands but I work in a profession where it's really bad when your hands appear unsteady. I take propranolol to reduce the shakes. If you are interested in steadying your hands, talk to your physician about it. I also drastically reduced my caffeine intake. It may not be an issue for you as positioning your hand with a proper rest helps, but I thought I should mention it since it helped me so much
I made myself a scraper with a grip from a disintegrated breakfast board made of bamboo. As blade, I used a piece of metal strip that is used to stack & package rectangular stones, for example. I always try to scavenge these metal strips, as they can be recycled for different purposes 😆 On the grip, I sawed a slot along the piece of wood and drilled two tiny holes at both ends, at nearly half the depth of the slot. Used these holes to secure the blade in the grip with a small solid wire, a nail could also be used.
Dandy ideas. I made a similar vise from plans. I use a couple of pieces of paper on either side to get the scraper a little proud. It works Ok, but only just. I like this idea, especially the burnisher and will buy one of them. Now a suggestion, if you will. Every card scraper demonstration I've seen uses straight-edged scrapers. It is easy enough to extend the basics to slightly curved scrapers. Recently, however, I tried to sharpen a French-curve scraper and after a long fight only partially succeeded. If you were to put out a tutorial on highly curved scrapers, I think it would be well received. Keep up the good work!
It is. a drag that the scraper is. pressed into a 'U' shape when in use. It is easy to see at 4:07 I wonder if clamping pieces of wood across it before using it might keep it flat so there is less chance of scalloping out the face being scraped.
A scraper is intentionally bent like that during use. The more you bend, the more aggressive the cut. It would not cut very effectively if it were perfectly flat.
I've never even heard of this but I'm definitely going to give it a try. It seems like precision might be an issue when first learning this. If anyone has some tips it would be greatly appreciated.
I think the main reason I rarely use mine is because majority of the time my kana planes work better. I found myself reaching for it only in cases with really tricky wood grain patterns.
Thank you for showing me a sandpaper alternative. One step closer to zero waste.
We called them 'cabinet scrap0ers' at school in late 1960s. Used them all the time. At my boarding school, they used to open art school, science labs, and woodwork shop for four sessions - Tuesday, Thursday afternoons, Saturday evening, Sundays - 7 hours total. Teacher wasn't a teacher, he was head of maintenance and was, himself, a master carpenter
Traditionally, a cabinet scraper is a hand plane-like tool that holds a thicker piece of steel at a negative angle. Stanley #80, for example.
A scraped surface is more sealed than a sanded surface, and will require fewer coats during finishing. And it's a great way to prep inside corners.
True, and the wood pores are less cluttered with dust. That told I have also to tell that the surface that comes from a properly tuned and used hand plane is even better, off course to prepare and use a hand plane to get that result needs much more skill and experience then to tune and use a scraper and certain pieces of wood are very difficult to plane, but is the faster and better way to get a perfect surface most of the times. The difference of quality in the surface is even more apparent if you use oil for finishing.
@@andreachinaglia5804 Thanks for your insight, I'll keep that in mind. I've been working with tamarack and cedar. With scraping the knots don't seem to cause too much of a problem so far.
Any elaboration, sources or "proof" for that statement ? Would like to learn more
@@TheOneMastodon I tested it comparing the surface obtained by planing vs the surface obtained with 3 different top quality orbital sanders, Festo, Makita and Bosh, equipped with quality sand paper: the surface appears to be very close, but as you apply some oil on it the one from the plane looks much better. I did that at a woodworkers meeting many years ago and all those that was there, some professional workers and some advanced amateurs, agreed about the surface obtained by planing being superior as soon as the oil was applied. There are probably 2 reasons why: the surface is obtained by a cut and not something that scratches the wood and the pores are not cluttered with sawdust. After that test I gradually shifted from the hand held electric sanders to the planes that I use even to "sand" plywood. Using the planes is also better as there is no noise or dust (that is not so healthy to breath), so ear and lung protection is not needed and is fast, much faster then any hand held electric sander. I am not talking of theory or of some test done and soon forgotten, I am talking of something that I am doing in my real life woodworking in the last 15 years or so, I own a very good and expensive orbital sander, but I had used it very seldom in the last 15 years as the hand plane is much more efficient and pleasant to use (if you have the needed skill in preparing, setting and using it). If the plane is not suited for the particular work, some woods and some grain orientations are problematic even with a perfectly tuned plane, you can judge by yourself how the card scraper is fast and effective watching the video.
@@TheOneMastodonIit's a super easy experiment, give it a try. You can also pull a scraper instead of pushing it. Works great for inside curves and inside corners.
THIS IS JUST LIKE RE INVENTING THE WHEEL .
i am 58 yeas old my grandad taught me how to use a spoke shave and how to hone a scraper blade .
to this day i still have scraper blades that are profiled to produce radiuses and profiles the type you cant even get thease days .
i never forgot that skill .
my home to this day has dado rails and skirting i reproduced from the original forms .
IE . my 10 inch skirting i made by hand look's like it has been there from the day the house was built ,
[ i could not even get the original profile . so i made my own ]
THANKS GRANDAD YOU TOUGHT ME A REAL SKILL :)
The technique in this video is not "reinventing" anything at all.
Sanding cloth embeds the sawdust into the woodgrain pores. A good luthier uses scrapers to get a fine finish because embedding sawdust into the grain kills the vibrations and thus dulls the musical sound
You should make some luthinging...? Seriously what is the verb form of this word?!? You should make videos about doing...luthier type things.
Also, my phone thinks you are Lutheran who lathers...
Wood guitars have a gloss coat. So, I can't understand what you mean. The point is to use a grit so fine nothing is getting into the grain. Sawdust particulates, even visible ones, are NOT "killing vibrations."
@@TotalDec guitars are not the only instruments made by luthiers, and they are one of a few that are less affected by sanding. But try sanding vs scraping on a world class violin and there will certainly be a difference
@@TheLovelyMissBeans Luthiers make guitars and other string instruments
I offered to help a friend remove and re-varnish two beautiful Thames rowing skiffs. I assumes he would use a mix of chemical strippers and electric sanders. No, 100% done by hand with scrapers, with minor hand sanding. It took much less time that I would have thought the finish was great, and no power sander dust and messy chemicals.
The next week I bought my own scrapper set.
Man, i really like your channel. I inherited about half of a woodshop and im just getting started on this journey. Thanks for all the good information!
I'm a musical instrument maker who specializes in historical bows. Starting about thirty years ago, I completely stopped using sandpaper, finishing the surface with scrapers of various kinds, and then polishing with equisetum (horsetails) and/or mammoth dust (a byproduct here). This is close to the way things were done hundreds of years ago- it doesn't have the boring perfection of sanded surfaces, but it saves time and (in my opinion) looks more alive.
Card scrapers are def one of my favourite finishing tools.
They work well for cleaning up 3d prints also
How do you do radius edges or profiles?
I use a card scraper all the time. I like the little touches that are included in this kit to make it easier to get a nice square edge. Always impressed with things like this from Taylor Toolworks.
I must tell you that I did buy an Accu-Burr, and after years of struggling to sharpen my card scrapers, this little gizmo is the real deal. Beautiful glorious shavings instead of dust. Thanks for the FYI, James.
Ok well my jaw is 100 percent on the floor, until 6 minutes ago I didn't know you could just scrape a piece of wood instead of sanding it. That is insane and I think I might be about to spend a bunch of money, damn
Scrapers and all the crap you need to make em work are pretty cheap and you've only gotta buy em once. Think of how much you'll save on sandpaper in the long run. It's a ridiculous bargain.
Thanks, James! As an experienced woodworker, some videos are spent nodding along and saying "yup, knew that" but there are plenty of useful new gems in your collection too - like this one!
Been using them for years. My go-to for finishing and not creating a cloud of dust. Good info here peeps!
How do you do radius edges and profiles?
That's a great kit setup! I tried and failed with scrapers for years until I tried lightening up. I was trying to KILL the metal with the burnisher for years and always failed. Turned out I was likely forming too large a burr and rolling it over too far. So it would only cut when the scraper was laid way over at some crazy angle. And being so big a burr it broke off and dulled very quickly.
It was only a few months ago that the fast rapid swipes shown in various videos made me lighten up and use a firm but not crazy hard pressure. And it worked GREAT!. My shavings are now coming off like the ones in this video. And the sharpness is lasting just like you're saying. So firm, not heavy is the key. And more strokes rather than heavier if needed. Less is more in this case.
I built a clamp just like that 15 years ago. The one thing I never did was polish the flats. I gotta try that!,
Here's a burnishing tip for those without that little tool. I raise the scraper 1/16th above the flat edge of the clamp, and use the edge of the clamp to set the angle of my old valve push rod burnisher. another great video!
A scraper was a recent tool i heard about for finishing 3d prints. Apparently its a great tool for smoothing layer lines without using all the sandpaper in the universe.
One of the few tools im looking at making for myself to simplify my life.
I've used it on all of my scrapers. FINALLY, a method that actually works. Thanks, Mike. And thanks, James, for all you do for us.
With these instructions even I could get a sharp edge.👍👍And the kit is reasonably priced. Thank you for sharing. Have a great day and stay safe.🙂🙂
A sharp plane blade can also be used as a scraper. I have also used freshly broken window glass for scraping curved work, just need to find a piece the right shape. 🙂👍🇦🇺
Scrapers and their maintenance have always fallen into my “Voodoo tools” category of stuff that my hands don’t instinctively understand. After watching this video my hands have given me permission to buy one small one😊
The best method of sharpening a scraper I personally have ever seen. What an easy and effective process. Thx for sharing.
Purchased this kit a couple of months ago,works great,that burnisher makes it so easy
The only part of what you show here I wasn't aware of is the burnisher.
But I think I can make my own. Will give it a go. Thanks, Mr. The Nubs!
A burnisher just needs to be harder than the scraper, and perfectly smooth. Screwdrivers make poor burnishers because they are not machined very smooth. But engine push-rods make good burnishers.
@@StumpyNubs axles from old printers also seem like a nice candidate.
does the burnisher have a special shape that makes it work?
@@sliceofbread2611 The shape of the one I showed makes it easier to use (as I explained in the video) but any smooth, rod-shaped, extra-hard material will work. You will just have to adapt your technique and practice a bit.
likewise, thanks for commenting
Went out to the shop made the holder jig,used a flat General Steel Rule and some 1000,1500 emery.can’t believe how nice the scrapers came out.Made the magnet holder too.THANKS Stumpy
Me too.Fantastic tip.
Great information James, looks like a keeper process to take care of the scrapers and make them better tools. Fred.
I'd like to see more on sharpening french curve cabinet scrapers!
My favorite use is scraping gummy paint or varnish that tends to gum up sandpaper.
And glue lines!
I've not long been a woodworker, just 3 years so I've got a lot to learn. I saw an old German woodworker who showed me what he used, instead of sandpaper on wood, he said he was never given sandpaper as an apprentice, instead he used a handful of shavings and burnished the wood that way. Although I use whatever shavings I've just been planning, I found oak shavings to be the best in my humble opinion.
Interesting, basically taking the "ruler trick" for hand plane back flattening and applying it to the card scrapper, followed by a Burnisher (which I really like). The jig is a great way to be consistent as well, I know I have to stop and think about all the steps since I don't use them often and sharpen them even less often because of that.
I can probably make up s similar jig/kit from parts in the shop so I'll have to give this a a go. I find my card scrapers to be very inconsistent, but maybe I need to sharpen them more.
The only good thing about when you make dust with it is that you can mix the dust with shellac for a great filler.
is shellac better than wood glue?
Taylor Toolworks sells great stuff. Thanks for the recommendation.
I really like using card scrapers. I do like using my larger diameter burnisher. It applies less pressure but makes a cleaner hook. For certain purposes I use smaller scrapers withan angle on the end to get into corners. Also, particularly with those scrapers, I file the edge to an angle and burnish a hook on only one side--(like the blade in the Stanley scraper plane that looks like a spokeshave with a very wide bed). Takes of large shavings from hard to reach places on glued up cabinet work and boat deck structures.
Taylor Tools is great. I just picked up my newest TayTools package off the front porch with my new rules from the last video! Great service and selection. And for this great tip, I already have a scary sharp system, so now off to make the wood pieces and get a burnisher!
thanks for the fine tuning
Doooooood...i knew i was missing something. The final step with the burnisher....thank you so much bud!
Love it. For the inquisitive: there are conversion charts from micron-graded abrasive surfaces to grit-based surfaces.
Great video. Love Taylor Tools ever since the first time I heard you talk about them on your channel I’ve bought many things from them thanks for sharing
Very interesting, this is one case where a burr is actually useful.
Thanks for sharing!
Luthiers have been using scrapers for a very long time. Thanks for the tip on the correct way of making one.
I learned to sharpen card scrapers while working in a ski repair shop over 30 years ago. But this system will certainly obtain much more consistent results. Very nice setup.
Omg that burnisher is a game changer...I absolutely have to buy that.
Prep is always a time saver
And you could just use your "scary sharp" glass/sandpaper/compound setup for this too.
I really like the shaped burnisher, haven't got one yet.
I’ve had a pair of scrappers for a few years now. Never used them. I must have been feeling old timey when I bought them. I think you just changed my mind on using them.
2:53 Ruler or RULE????😂
If in doubt choose Hilti
@@m4inline hahaha , nice one
What about curved scrapers.. any tips?
Great video!
Rob Cosman uses torrified wood for the holders. It’s water resistant so the wood won’t be damaged by the water.
This is good knowledge. Thx!
My father used a piece of flat glass. He had a few little tricks like that. Comes from growing up in the 1930s and 40s...
I use a scraper whenever possible. They save so much time.
James, I saw this on their website a little while back and went for it because I tried a few times to sharpen my scraper but didn't have much success. Well, this kit/process really worked. Puts a really nice burr on the card. This really did the trick for me.
Good video and very helpful. I also like the new backdrop.
I'm with you on Taylor Toolworks. I've subscribed and purchased for years
Wonderful jig. Scrapers are very useful. Thank you for sharing. Everyone stay warm,, safe, happy and healthy. From Henrico County Virginia
Just re watched this vid.I made the jigs but forgot how they worked.By the way,the scrapers I sharpened after I first made and used this method are still sharp as hell.
Card scrapers are *the* best tool in my arsenal to refinish gunstocks.
I have had very good experiences with Taylor Toolworks from multiple orders. Excellent products, good prices, and great sales. And, unlike many espams, I look forward to their frequent emails. I shop, I covet, and I learn things. Not at all bad!
Great video thank you. One of the coolest features of scraping is that the finish is more beautiful than what you get from sanding. The surface from sanding appears dull by comparison to scraping.
I find the cheap metal rules work great as well when used as a scraper
Hey, those wood dreadlocks look great for tinder!
I'd seen the Taylor video, but it didn't register with me how quick it'd work. Thanks (ordered), and love the new shop/backdrop!
Can't wait to see the drawers and doors on your cabinets behind you.
This is good transferable knowledge. Thank you.
Can you please do a video on how to sharpen curved card scrapers?
There are even planes that use a card scraper and if you adjust them correctely you can use them instead of sanding between voats of shell lack.
Also for sculptural pieces a flexible card scraper can be made from old blades from japan saws.
James, great video and thanks for the link to Taylor Tool. I prefer family business over"box stores" who only care about their "bottom line".
Another excellent and invaluable tip! Thanks for making! :)
It took me exactly one good look at how much sandpaper costs to justify spending the time to learn how to sharpen one of these. They are way, way quicker, than sandpaper and deliver better results. Also they come free with every dispensible japanese saw you buy.
Unfortunately I cannot get it shipped to Europe.
But I do appreciate the knowledge, makes it easier to give it a try. As an hobby woodworker with no experience with card scrapers in my network, it was always a bit daunting to try it.
Fantastic! Thanks a bunch, James! 😃
Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
Glass works just as well. I know one guy who always carved using glass. Some of the hardest word (lignum vitae) he used to carve busts. Each time it blunts, cut a new edge or a new piece of glass.
as usual good advice short vid easy to follow.
Thank you James.
Great video, as always.
I have arthritis in both my thumbs and as a result I cannot hold a card scraper but I found a tool that holds the scraper at the right angle so I can continue to use a scraper, I too hate sanding.
Hand tools for the win again!
When i started using these for finishing 3D prints... i have not bought new sandpaper in a year now. The edge needs to be FAR less aggressive for plastic but it cuts down time to about a fifth.. Basically, what you want then is as sharp of a 90 degree angle as possible, with just a very tiny lip. I have one that has just the 90 degree edge that i alternate based on the needs. Sometime even a tiny lip will "catch" and dig into the piece a bit too much.
This is pretty close to how you dress frets on a guitar for anyone that is interested in that particular skill. Lots of other factors, but the Sharpie honing idea is where it starts.
I use a bench grinder with fine stone. It Works great takes only 2 passes
Cool! Another game changer.
I might have to buy this I've tried and tried to sharpen my scraper, one thing that might not hurt to show how to do is a gooseneck scraper.
Goosenecks are harder, and few people use them. Maybe I'll do a video on them one day, but the video won't perform well :(
@@StumpyNubs I know, my gooseneck is still in its factory shape because I get started on it and fight it and grab a file and sandpaper 🤣. Maybe one day when you're really bored you can do the gooseneck and the arch.
Veneers scrapes r tool u rarely c nowadays but they really r effective
Great demonstration James. Thanks.
Still love your vids James
Expensive video! I had no choice once I saw this, I had to buy the kit and the burnisher. Please hold off for a while before you recommend anything else this good!
Those shavings look like great little fire starters.
Very interesting; I’ve never used a card scraper: May I ask if it’s good just for finishing or if can be used for varnish removal as well? Thanks for sharing the video, informative as always
Yes, scrapers can be used to remove varnish, but they may dull quicker on thicker, harder coats. You may need to make a lesser, thus stronger "hook". Where they shine is for smoothing the wood. Because they "shave" rather than scratch (like sanding paper), they leave the surface very smooth, almost shiny on hard woods. Always scrape along the grain or at a slight angle. You will need the tool to burnish it (and a file or stone to reset worn hooks). Together with the burnisher, it may seem expensive ($25-45), but unlike sand paper, they will last you indefinitely (and easy to clean if the clog along the hook with paint or varnish). And they make a nicer job. When you push it, you need to bend the scraper in a slight bow forward (the more bow, the more aggressive the shaving) and also lean it forward. It is a fantastic, cheap tool. Probably best to buy from a reputable store as it needs to be made of the proper steel. Or, if buying on-line, check the reviews. One last thing, you may find that on some planks, the scraper works best in one direction, that is "downhill" of the grain (a bit like a router). That can be a problem on woods like burl and fiddle back veneers where the grain orientation changes frequently. If you need to go "uphill" of the grain, go very lightly. Once you get the hang of it, you don't look back.
@@yl9154 it sounds like a great tool indeed. thank you very much pal for taking the time to explaining it to me in such a detailed way: I’ll keep these insights handy !
@@hardstylelife5749 The fact that you bothered to thank me shows it was time well spent!
I have nothing to say really, but I appreciate your content, and wish to help with the yt-algorithms.
I have shaky hands but I work in a profession where it's really bad when your hands appear unsteady. I take propranolol to reduce the shakes. If you are interested in steadying your hands, talk to your physician about it. I also drastically reduced my caffeine intake. It may not be an issue for you as positioning your hand with a proper rest helps, but I thought I should mention it since it helped me so much
The sold me the card scraper, then the burnishing tool, and now the prep kit 😂
Definitely an art to use a scaper. This helps a lot. Thanks.
I made myself a scraper with a grip from a disintegrated breakfast board made of bamboo. As blade, I used a piece of metal strip that is used to stack & package rectangular stones, for example. I always try to scavenge these metal strips, as they can be recycled for different purposes 😆
On the grip, I sawed a slot along the piece of wood and drilled two tiny holes at both ends, at nearly half the depth of the slot. Used these holes to secure the blade in the grip with a small solid wire, a nail could also be used.
Make your own scraper from a piece of old band saw from a sawmill, this steel is extra thick and will not bend easily👍
Dandy ideas. I made a similar vise from plans. I use a couple of pieces of paper on either side to get the scraper a little proud. It works Ok, but only just. I like this idea, especially the burnisher and will buy one of them.
Now a suggestion, if you will. Every card scraper demonstration I've seen uses straight-edged scrapers. It is easy enough to extend the basics to slightly curved scrapers. Recently, however, I tried to sharpen a French-curve scraper and after a long fight only partially succeeded. If you were to put out a tutorial on highly curved scrapers, I think it would be well received.
Keep up the good work!
There are no videos about sharpening goose-neck scrapers because few people use them and such a video would not perform well.
It is. a drag that the scraper is. pressed into a 'U' shape when in use. It is easy to see at 4:07
I wonder if clamping pieces of wood across it before using it might keep it flat so there is less chance of scalloping out the face being scraped.
A scraper is intentionally bent like that during use. The more you bend, the more aggressive the cut. It would not cut very effectively if it were perfectly flat.
Clear and concise. Thanks!
Really good, thank you!
Excellent. I really hate using sandpaper
I've never even heard of this but I'm definitely going to give it a try. It seems like precision might be an issue when first learning this. If anyone has some tips it would be greatly appreciated.
I think the main reason I rarely use mine is because majority of the time my kana planes work better. I found myself reaching for it only in cases with really tricky wood grain patterns.