Chainsaw Oil Pump Gear Replacement (Stihl 044 046 MS440 MS460)
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- Опубліковано 17 лип 2016
- If you're using your saw for a chainsaw mill, it won't be long before your saw needs attention. My Stihl MS460 was no longer providing oil to the bar and chain. I walk through diagnosing and repairing the problem and we'll take a look at the parts of the saw so repairing yours will be less daunting. Most Stihl saws will have a very similar assembly but specifics on other brands will vary. However, they will all have similar parts and operate the same.
Thank you to AzDadonFire for providing the replacement parts
youtube: / azdadonfire
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I like this guy. He's Happy Gilmour. Good video
When you put your clutch drum on, its always a good idea to make sure your worm gear drive wire is in the notch of the bell on the clutch drum. Awesome video!
Thank you for this video. I was just given an 044 by a neighbor that is not oiling. now I know how to figure out what is wrong and fix what is needed. may not be pump or worm gear but this video gave me enough info to diagnose the l problem and fix it.
Great video Matt. I think this may help with some of the issues I am having with my small chainsaw mill.
Excellent! Thanks Scott
Very good instructions great job young man. 👍👍👍
thanks!
I am glad you showed this I might be checking out one of my saws that leaks oil
If you can get it all apart, it's usually pretty easy to see where the leak is coming from
Excellent! thank you now I need to make sure all the pieces are back in!
Thanks for the great video! Very informative.
Thanks for sharing the info Matt. I've been using an electric one which works fine in the shop, but I have to miss a lot of opportunities because of it. Thinking about a gas one, although I have a lot on my wishlist right now!
Todd
You taught me alot of things I wanted to know, Matt. Thanks.
and maybe some you didn't know you wanted to know :)
Yes indeed. :>)
amazing video. you explained everything so well and basic! more cs videos!!
very informative Matt as always. I love taking things apart and try to fix myself, my wife hates that i do that...but i guess it started when my dad let me take a telephone apart when i was 5.....lol.
Perfect video for what I needed. Nice one A
I just wanted to leave a comment for everyone that doesn't know to lift the tip of the bar before adjusting the chain tension. Hopefully this is addressed in your other videos. You can check the oil pump without the bar and chain on to see if there is flow out of the oil hole while slightly revving the engine.
Not on a mill, the bar moves in the opposite direction in the cut
You can save a LOT of money, fixing that kind of stuff yourself.... And it's a good feeling, to be more self reliant.....
Great video!
Thanks Patrick!
Great work Matt!
Awesome video. Always enjoy it when you instruct. It's like infotainment.
Thank you! Glad I can be entertaining :)
+Matthew Cremona Infotainment, educating while making it fun!
nice. always good to be able to work on your own stuff
Thanks Charles!
Awesome tutorial Matt!
+Joe Serb thanks Joe!
Great videa Matt!! Thanks👍
GREAT video Matt and AS ALWAYS very well presented A + ++ +++
Thank you!
very good video easy & simple
I'd love to get into chainsaw milling some day... loved this video, very informative, thanks! 🤓
Matt, I went through learning about chainsaw milling and screwed up a chainsaw piston in a new under powered Poulan Pro 50 cc. Ended up purchasing a rebuilt Husquvarna 460 Rancher. It's nice to see your rebuild and differences between the Husky and the Sthil.
That's a good way to learn. Probably not the most fun or cheap way though :)
Excellent video
Great explanation...you have a gift.
thanks!
Nice one. I love to see how stuff works. My chainsaw is a small electric one, but i guess the oil pump mechanism would be similar.
Thanks Willem. Probably somewhat similar. The electric ones don't have a clutch so the pump must be driven some other way.
cool cameo of those two other small saws. i hadn't seen them before
Great video, thanks
thanks for the shout out.
Great video, very useful but a couple of thoughts for future videos....these thoughts actually apply to a wide variety of people posting videos on mechanics here...not just to you.
You know there is always a risk putting anything inside a cylinder and putting pressure on it. Usually in this situation simply holding a flywheel by hand and using an impact wrench is plenty to remove it as well as reinstalling it. It doesn't need to be that tight as the engine and chain will tighten it in use. My thought is too many videos on Youtbe are not demonstrating the speed and usefulness as well as proper use of impact tools. Even the home shop today usually has an assortment of impacts electric as well as air powered.
You make a great point about chain drag sucking power and causing other negative issues with the saw...but the thing I don't see addressed is the bar tip...they go bad occasionally and actually have 2 needle tip grease zerks...that should be greased regularly for best performance and minimum wear....don't see anyone seem to realize they are even there anymore. We used to grease ours every day??????? Are the new ones sealed bearings????
Great video. I'll admit, I thought you were going to be upgrading the oil pump from standard to high output which is an option on the west coast versions of these saws. I did end up watching the whole thing though. One thing I would recommend is lifting the bar while tensioning to avoid the chain loosening up.
Nice job, I think you got the point across that if you use a chainsaw there are things that you need to pay attention to, to make sure the saw continues function and will save you money in the long run. Thanks Matt!
Thanks!
Great video!
Thanks Jordan!
Matt, there is also a hole in the bottom of the chain groove that communicates with the two holes that can get clogged.
Good stuff!
Thanks Douglas!
Just a side note. If someone wants to use the rope method of holding the engine and they are working on a 4 stroke engine they need to make sure they are on a compression stroke or they will damage the open exhaust valve.
How do you know if you're on a compression stroke?
Matt, if you use a thin blade and clean between the rails from the tip back towards the stud holes you will get better oil flow and flip the bar over you will get even wear on the guide rails
I do both of those. My smaller bar was already all cleaned up and I had it mounted the other way last time :) Thanks!
Nice vid
Hey Young Guy , Great!!!!!!
Thanks
Good video. But you forgot the most important part of that oil pump! .... The line that supplies the oil to the bar!
Hello Matt. How can the clutch break apart ?
thanks
You mentioned that the oiler fits into the intake. I think there is a valve between the oiler and intake no? Anyway the part I was interested in is the outlet side. My 044 has a tube from the oiler up behind were the oil comes out of the saw into the blade. That line is metal and I'm not sure if it connects to the oil pump or the pump fits with or into it somehow. I don't want to take mine apart until I'm sure how it goes back together. LLLLLL Later. An exploded view of mine shows the output side pipe is attached to the oiler pump. It goes up behind the oil outlet to the chain. There is an O ring on the end so it must just press up in there. I did not see a metal output arm on yours so the MS460 and 044 oilers are different or maybe mine is an early 044 and that changed in a later model of the 044. ??
Thanks for the informative vid Matt! Ron, Littlewierdshop
My pleasure. Thanks Ron!
Hey Matt, I also have an MS 440 and I have been toying with the idea of making a chainsaw mill. What do you recommend as the max bar length and I heard you mention a ripping chain. I currently use a 3/8 super chisel chain. So what do you recommend for hey ripping chain? Thanks and as always, happy woodworking
I run a 42" bar on mine with 3/8" rip chain that I get from baileys.
So same problem on my 039, got a new worm gear, but mine screws in, is it supposed to do that or is it supposed to press in?
Good video, however when adjusting the chain tension you should lift the tip of the bar.
very important tips to follow
set the bar on a small block of wood.
Not on a mill, the bar moves in the opposite direction in the cut
@@247lumpy what does that have to do with tightening the chain?
@@gibbyrockerhunter When on a mill, you push (down on the rear handle) opposite than not on a mill (lifting the rear handle) so you would tighten by pushing the tip of the bar down or at least letting it sag under its own weight
Hi, i just went through the process. Don't you forget to connect the small metal tube that goes up bringing the oil up to the chain ? I had so much trouble fitting it !
I have an 034AV Stihl and it has an oil line going from the pump to the bar. It’s almost impossible to install because the line is made of such hard plastic. I did find a UA-cam video that showed the whole process of replacing the oil line.
Here’s the video. ua-cam.com/video/Cq3RJdOlOw0/v-deo.html
Is there a adjustment on the bar oil flow
Does anyone know if the MS361 is the same basic design in regards to the oil pump?
Hey Matt, just a thought. You might get more views other than your main followers if you put Stihl and/or the model in the title. Just guys who are trying to fix their chainsaw but aren't into woodworking might stumble across it. Just my two cents.
I plan on adding that in a week or so. I didn't want to put off the current subscribers because this is a little more than just replacing a specific part on my saw.
+Matthew Cremona True. Cool video nonetheless. You got me wanting to start chainsaw milling. Between a decent saw and the milling bracket how much am I looking at spending?
Thanks! A used 046 or 460 like mine will run you around $500-$700. I have the 42" mill and it's $150. My 42" bar cost me $120 and a loop of chain is $35.
+Matthew Cremona Awesome! I don't know why I kept thinking it would be 2k+. Looks like I know what I'm asking the lady for for my birthday haha. Thanks dude!
Hey Matt I have 046 when I start it up on the ground leves are pulled up to side of the saw and when I pull them off it shuts off. Have you ran in to this before? Thanks
Hey Matt, I have a random question. I recently received a Stihl rollomatic ES 36" bar and i have no idea where to find what saw would be the best purchase to go with this bar. What saw would you recommend?
If you purchased a bar before you chose a saw power head, your IQ is insufficient for this operation.
Wait a minute. The oil sprays right off the chain? Does that show up on milled/cut lumber/logs?
The oil lubricates the chain as it runs along the bar. Of course it sprays off the end....very minimal. Not a problem.
I see it's working again nice oil line....lol....New channel...Matt chainsaw 101...
haha I don't think so
Oh go on Matt...we need more Matt.....lol
where do you get your parts from cause you tell us they are easily available but I have never seen anyone who sells them
I always go to ebay. There are lots of sellers selling new and used oem and aftermarket parts
looks like you got her pumping now.
yes indeedy!
You said that you'll take that saw out in the MORNING and test it out? Forget that, fire that baby up now! The ole Stihl wants to chew some chips. Just kidding ya, Matt.
Great video. Did you remember to lift up on the bar tip when you snugged up the bar nuts?
Are you Maltese????
Matt, it looks like you are running your clutch bearing totally dry...grease it every time you change chains or flip the bar.
Matthew, don't listen to the EPA based 50:1 guidelines. 40:1 or better yet 32:1, with a quality synthetic like saber when running hard as in milling will ensure you will have a margin of safety if you lean out or run till dry for any reason and those ratios do not cause any issues with quality oils. Watch afleetcommand videos on the subject and many others that have torn down many many powerheads and know what they are talking about from direct observation.
You didn’t connect the oil lines to the pump
Be sure and burn the end of the rope, or you can get little rope strands on the top of youre piston, then you’ll have to fish it out. I found that out the hard way
I love guys like you telling people to take their saw apart to clean, then they bring them to me because they can't put them back together. lol!
I'm so distracted by you talking with your hands lol
That saw is too small for milling honestly. Milling will beat the hell out of even the biggest saws, especially with a saw too small and having to work way too hard. That's why your oiler quit out so soon. Not that milling doesn't wear parts out fast anyways but you're asking that saw to do too much. Most guys use a 90+ cc saw (661, 880) for milling and it even beats those saws up!
440 and 460 do not take same oil pump
Hiya, I know you've said you like to be challenged but have you been beaten yet? S
Not yet
Oh my god the bar cover was upside down, unsubbing right now.
funny
lol my apologies to my ocd viewers
Matthew Cremona
This video is useless for the 044 they have a different oil pump than the 460's
What kinda guy does repair videos and does not have a battery powered impact tool to remove the clutch?.....The same type that does milling and does not have a 066 or larger.... :-)
bahahahahahahaaha I have an 090, ya know ;)
Never had an 090, of course since I don't own a mill my 066 is a better choice, but for a mill those 090s gotta be the cats meow! Back when I was 16 I had a gear reduction Homelite pretty sure it was over 100cc thing was an absolute beast....no need for a skip just set the dogs and lift the handle...always regretted getting rid of it.
Those large cc saws are on a different level. Such a fun machine to run!