Ford 5.4L 3v Engine Timing Chain Kit Replacement Pt 3 of 4: Valvetrain Component Removal
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- Опубліковано 5 сер 2016
- These are the Tools and Parts needed for the job:
Updated Latest Ford Timing Kit-
amzn.to/3O3wtDM
2004-2014 Engines Latest Roller Followers x24-
amzn.to/3BtEHgm
2005-2014 Engines can utilize this Ford Racing Kit-
amzn.to/492DRYC
Valve Cover Gasket Set:
2004-2007-
amzn.to/2ao6KB7
2008-2014-
amzn.to/2ap9x05
Latest VCT Solenoids-
amzn.to/2aZtAo5
Crankshaft Pulley Bolt-
amzn.to/2aNQwRL
Phaser Holding Tool-
amzn.to/2aBVfpK
Roller Follower Remover Tool-
amzn.to/2aDglu5
Crankshaft Positioning Tool-
amzn.to/2ap8eOD
Cat Claw-
amzn.to/2anM8yV
Crankshaft Pulley Puller (2004-mid year 2008)-
amzn.to/2akfw3k
Crankshaft Pulley Puller (mid 2008-2014)-
amzn.to/2pHaaMH
Pneumatic Fan Wrench Kit-
amzn.to/2auxqmP
Permatex Engine Sealant-
amzn.to/2anMrtp
Lisle A/C disconnect tool-
amzn.to/2aaYpW3
5W-30 Oil I recommend-
amzn.to/2aeRdUt
Melling M360HV Oil Pump-
amzn.to/2IBcqKG
Engine Coolant needed if drained-
amzn.to/2aeR6bh
Mopar Rust Penetrant-
amzn.to/2anN8D7
Oil pump replacement Video-
• Ford 5.4L 3v Engine Me...
Ford 5.4L 3v Triton Engines: Roller Follower Removal and Installation Video-
• Ford 5.4L 3v Triton En...
Torque Sequence Diagrams:
Valve Covers 2004-2007: 89 inch lbs
LH-
drive.google.com/file/d/0BzYk...
RH-
drive.google.com/file/d/0BzYk...
Valve Covers 2008-2014: 89 inch lbs
LH-
drive.google.com/file/d/0BzYk...
RH-
drive.google.com/file/d/0BzYk...
Front Cover Sealant Points-
drive.google.com/file/d/0BzYk...
Front Cover Sequence-
drive.google.com/file/d/0BzYk...
LH RH Camshaft Sequence: 89 inch lbs
drive.google.com/file/d/0BzYk...
5.4L 3v Timing Chain Kit Replacement Series:
Part 1- • Ford 5.4L 3v Engine Ti...
Part 2- • Ford 5.4L 3v Engine Ti...
Part 3- • Ford 5.4L 3v Engine Ti...
Forscan is a free Ford Specific Diagnostic Software:
Download Here-
forscan.org/home.html
ELM 327 Adapter I Recommend-
amzn.to/2GC6dBj
As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases.
My Automotive Repair Shop BSG Automotive-
www.bsgautomotive.com
Catch up with us on-
Facebook: / fordtechmakuloco
Twitter: / fordtechmak
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Disclaimer:
The information, demonstration and any content contained in this video is for informational purposes only. The user and BSG Automotive (hereinafter “FordTechMakuloco”) makes no warranty, express or implied, regarding the effectiveness or safety of the contents of this video. In no way should the contents of the video, including the tools used, be repeated or tried by anyone. Viewers should only seek the help of a trained professional located at a licensed auto repair shop for any fix, modification, alteration, or any change to their vehicle. FordTechMakuloco shall not be liable for any injury, damage, or loss to any person or property that may result from use of the tools, equipment, or any content contained in this video. In addition, there is no way to guarantee that the video is not altered or modified or is not in the final form submitted by FordTechMakuloco and therefore, FordTechMakuloco does not warrant that the video is unaltered or not modified. The links on this video to products are for informational purposes only and in no way are an endorsement of the safety or effectiveness of the particular product. Viewers understand that anything contained in this video or linked to or from this video is the sole responsibility of the viewer and in no way provides an express or implied warranty as to the safety or effectiveness of any linked tool, product, or video. Therefore, viewer agrees to release, waive, and discharge FordTechMakuloco or anyone affiliated with FordTechMakuloco, from any and all liability, claims, demands, actions, and causes of action whatsoever arising out of or related to any loss, damage, or injury, including death, that may be sustained by the viewer, or to any property belonging to viewer, regardless of whether the loss is linked to the use of the contents of this video, or otherwise and regardless of whether such liability arises in tort, contract, strict liability, or otherwise, to the fullest extent allowed by law. - Авто та транспорт
These are the Tools and Parts needed for the job:
Updated Latest Ford Timing Kit-
amzn.to/3O3wtDM
2004-2014 Engines Latest Roller Followers x24-
amzn.to/3BtEHgm
2005-2014 Engines can utilize this Ford Racing Kit-
amzn.to/492DRYC
Valve Cover Gasket Set:
2004-2007-
amzn.to/2ao6KB7
2008-2014-
amzn.to/2ap9x05
Latest VCT Solenoids-
amzn.to/2aZtAo5
Crankshaft Pulley Bolt-
amzn.to/2aNQwRL
Phaser Holding Tool-
amzn.to/2aBVfpK
Roller Follower Remover Tool-
amzn.to/2aDglu5
Crankshaft Positioning Tool-
amzn.to/2ap8eOD
Cat Claw-
amzn.to/2anM8yV
Crankshaft Pulley Puller (2004-mid year 2008)-
amzn.to/2akfw3k
Crankshaft Pulley Puller (mid 2008-2014)-
amzn.to/2pHaaMH
Pneumatic Fan Wrench Kit-
amzn.to/2auxqmP
Permatex Engine Sealant-
amzn.to/2anMrtp
Lisle A/C disconnect tool-
amzn.to/2aaYpW3
5W-30 Oil I recommend-
amzn.to/2aeRdUt
Melling M360HV Oil Pump-
amzn.to/2IBcqKG
Engine Coolant needed if drained-
amzn.to/2aeR6bh
Mopar Rust Penetrant-
amzn.to/2anN8D7
Oil pump replacement Video-
ua-cam.com/video/ulEJfcQ7HhA/v-deo.html
Ford 5.4L 3v Triton Engines: Roller Follower Removal and Installation Video-
ua-cam.com/video/jdAUeVRBNA8/v-deo.html
Torque Sequence Diagrams:
Valve Covers 2004-2007: 89 inch lbs
LH-
drive.google.com/file/d/0BzYkF_-Nh949YkFXTmxFbTNVcXc/view?usp=sharing
RH-
drive.google.com/file/d/0BzYkF_-Nh949akIteHRIcWhvVDQ/view?usp=sharing
Valve Covers 2008-2014: 89 inch lbs
LH-
drive.google.com/file/d/0BzYkF_-Nh949Tno0czVseFh2WjA/view?usp=sharing
RH-
drive.google.com/file/d/0BzYkF_-Nh949WWRHVVg4ZFN5SWM/view?usp=sharing
Front Cover Sealant Points-
drive.google.com/file/d/0BzYkF_-Nh949Rkx5SEk0MndaMkk/view?usp=sharing
Front Cover Sequence-
drive.google.com/file/d/0BzYkF_-Nh949RUdfR1hfVHhlWWM/view?usp=sharing
LH RH Camshaft Sequence: 89 inch lbs
drive.google.com/file/d/0BzYkF_-Nh949UjdDN3BybWtsejg/view?usp=sharing
5.4L 3v Timing Chain Kit Replacement Series:
Part 1- ua-cam.com/video/nQVKnd2r-ww/v-deo.html
Part 2- ua-cam.com/video/u6wkyLEeUgg/v-deo.html
Part 3- ua-cam.com/video/mjBPC10kjKA/v-deo.html
Forscan is a free Ford Specific Diagnostic Software:
Download Here-
forscan.org/home.html
ELM 327 Adapter I Recommend-
amzn.to/2GC6dBj
As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases.
I've seen several aftermarket full timing chain kits that are $200 to $400. Do you only recommend the Ford parts? Major price difference...
FordTechMakuloco bro my tentioner guid pin on driver side fell out, hole is wallerd out, ford suggested welding it but they won't do it cause they'd have to stand behind it but I don't think those metals are the same what do you think?
I would like to say thank you for you perfect instructional videos
ALSO....every other follower came out easy no problem. Its the last one!!!
⁶
I love the way that you take your time to show and explain absolutely every aspect of these jobs. Making videos like this isn’t easy - but you make it look that way.
I'm no mechanic but thank you so much I followed your instructions step by step and I did my own timing job and put a new oil pump on it while I was at it first time ever doing it and did it right the first time thank you so much
how long did it take you
@@kblend7225 that's my question, I'm starting this project lol
Same getting ready to start to
@Jake Degen I finished it, everything was easy. DO NOT BUY THE CHEAP TOOL !!!!
spend the extra money and get the one he links, not sure why but it works perfect. I bought 3 different versions trying to be cheap and all 3 would not screw down correctly, just awful.
If you have any questions during this, hit me up. My truck is running great after this
@@chrisgraham8711 is there anything special you have to watch for when doing the roller followers? I heard somebody say if you're not careful the valves can drop in the head or something like that
Great video ! I’m gonna tackle this project soon.
Hands down the best ford mechanic on youtube . Keep up the great work !
awesome series and a big thanks to you. i was on the fence about putting time and money into my 04 but now think after watching your videos i can manage this job. although i am not a mechanic per se, i think if i get all my parts together and take my time this is definitely doable. again, thanks a ton.
Hey bro! I replaced my heads due to blown head gasket and I had to the timing and all that. There's no way I could have done that without your walkthrough! You're great man thanks
Thank you for the content of this series. I wish I had come across this before I started the project. I made the mistake of not making sure I was at TDC when I removed the phasers and timing chains. I have installed the phaser on the driver side, but it didn't line up with the lower sprocket like it should have. I then turned the camshaft to have the "L" pointing straight up. I probably shouldn't have done that. It fought me a little, but didn't hear any noise when I did it. I have purchased the tools you recommended, used the crank shaft tool, removed the roller followers, but I'm unsure if the cam is in the right place. I haven't removed the rest of the roller followers. I'm going to put the key way to the 6 O'clock and remove the rest of the followers, and keep my fingers crossed.
Two questions please.
1. Is it possible to replace the timing chains without removing the valve followers?
1. Looking at my current timing marks on the chains it appears that the marks on both banks are one tooth off. Meaning the mark on each phaser(L or R) is not centered in the marks in the chains. Does this mean each side jumped a tooth?
Excellent work and instruction , as an experience mechanic I can appreciate your instruction. Thanks
Do you (have) to unhook the camshaft components to spin the camshaft so the cam phasers could lineup and down or is it a easier way to go about doing it ?
I can’t thank for you enough for all your time and knowledge. Your amazing!
Awesome videos very professional,so I am watching the same one ten times or more,im doing mine at home slowly and taking my time.
You video has been a tremendous help! And for buying the correct right parts so I don't have to worry about doing it again soon after!
I have a 2007 F150 in the shop now, rattling from the right side. Managed to get the vc off and it appears the tensioner has failed, lots of slop in the chain. Haven't had the pleasure of doing a 5.4 yet, it will be next weeks project. Thanks for posting the videos, very informative.
note: in the video 3 you clearly state cylinder number 5 but it looks like you are on 1 because the appearance of the vct solenoid seems to be at the front of the engine until you look at the location of the sparkplug wells and the fact that you are filming from the center of the engine out not the other way. This is why we all have to pay attention to detail. waisted an hour but love the video. saving me thousands
Yep. My 5.4 was just like that. Tensioner blown out and chain loose. Startup rattle. Had to tear it down to see. Thank you so much. So grateful
what tool can i used to keep the cams from moving on my 2001 Ford EX.I purchased 303-448 OTC 6024,and Ford camshaft Holding tool.I'm looking forward to replace my tensions,,guides,and oil pump.#324 miles,.great compression readings
Great videos. Just started #3. I bought a project. Guy already has engine apart. He had cams out so as he could spin crank to inspect pistons. will that be an issue with timing the truck when putting things back together? thx
excellent tutorial video i have one question to ask i have ford f150 2001 5.4 engine as i was driving down the spark plug shot out cylinder head and i had to get my truck away from traffic so i drove it as it was driving everything just shuts off will this put my timing out tune also replace cam crank sensor still wont start but cranks also the spark plug was replace
Thank you so much for the video, I just finished with my 2008 F250 4x4. But I have an issue with the vacuum hose popped off the intake and I can't find where to hook the hose.
I'm re-doing the timing on 3v 4.6 as the pass. side phaser is 180 off the mark. How much of this process would I need to do to correct that as the rest of the timing marks line up and the driver's mark is also correct. I also have the MMR timing set so how would I go about removing the tension without damaging the tensioner? Thanks
Very informative! I have my 5.4 all opened up now but I can't turn the crankshaft clockwise more than a quarter turn though. I tried going counter clockwise and made 2 full turns no problem and then when I tried clockwise again only quarter turn once again...any ideas as to why that could be?
Thanks for these videos. I’m getting ready to replace the timing on my 2008 F150 but I keep getting code P0119. Replaced CHT sensor twice in the last year so I’m thinking it’s the wiring from the sensor to the harness. What would you recommend? Thanks
Pardon my ignorance but It's necessary to remove the camshafts if I only want to replace the phasers and chains?
i was watching another video and it got me slightly off. like stated earlier i did not remove the roller followers im going to do that next before going any further my concern now is how do i verify that crankshaft is in correct position
hey Brian the other day i pull off my cover and saw that my chain for the driversside was off the socket so i couldnt get the cams into the resting postion is there anything i can do to get them there without killing the engine or is the engine already gone
Hi, I’ve been following your instructions, bought the parts and tools through your links, etc. Trying to remove the driver side (Dorman/Chinese) phaser with the locking tool installed but the internals and the outer front portion of the phaser are turning (teeth aren’t) when trying to loosen. Camshaft is also turning. Looking for advice as to not mess anything up. Already did the passenger side (original OEM type) without issue. Thanks in advance!
Greetings, quick (I hope) question. My sons pickup started running very rough and backfiring, was near impossible to start and was throwing p0435 along with misfire codes. Pulled covers and chain guides are almost completely gone, tensioners appear no good and lots of chain slack, had been beating on the front timing cover. Did do a compression test of each cylinder before exposing it and all were at or a little above 92psi. I have it exposed and it appears as though the drivers side cam is almost exactly 180 out of time. With keyway on crank at 12:00 on TDC, passenger side cam lobes are in correct position but the drivers side is not, it looks near 180 off. The dash timing mark on the drivers side phaser is up instead of the L, I'm seeing both dashed timing marks (original ford phasers) up rather than a dash on the passenger and the L on the drivers. Truck has 110,000K on it. With decent compression is it still worth putting in new parts and putting this thing back together? Have you seen one do this before? Thoughts? Love the channel and thanks for the education!
Hey Brian, what is the torque rating of your impact here? I have one, but it struggled with those cam phaser bolts, so I'm looking to upgrade. Thanks.
Question, with the cams in the neutral position (roller followers removed 1, 4, 5, 8) why would the left cam (drivers side) have more free play than the right. Don’t believe this is a problem but find it strange. Thanks
Question at 2 min mark you rotate the crank, when I rotate mine it gets harder to rotate then the reg compression stroke. Then eases up again. This normal?
Once you compress the spring and remove the roller follower do you just loosen the compressor and take it out or do you need to keep pressure on the valve stem as you loosen the compressor?
i found that the solenoid seals i ordered have 2 tangs and offset hole for my 2007 f250 4x4 super duty,after that i believe i found that mine should be the 1 3/8'' that are to be put in with valve cover removed,i had planned anyway to do the whole timing job but like to have all i need ready to go,any other issues you know or oddities with this truck,thanks for such clarity in your vids they are top notch
Before I remove original chains I checked and positioned crank and cams timing and the A was on Drivers side and L on passenger 180 from manual and video. I need clarification on why this is like this on my 2009 F150 5.4L ???. At what position should cams be to set number one cylinder intake valves for proper timing in reference to crank at 11:00 O'clock with special crank timing tool
is this procedure the same for the 05-09 3v 4.6 in the mustang
I’m working on my 2010 f 150 timing chain and phasers/ do I need to remove the camshafts and followers entirely if there in good order or can I skip that step? I do have the special tool for the crankshaft timing position
How many hours does it take to replace the cylinder temperature sensor on a 2005 navigator and do you have to remove the intake
when i was removing a roller follower with the tool, you know how when it gets pressed all the way with the tool and your applying the finger pressure and it makes that little "pop"? well it did that, and instead of pulling the roller follower off like i did on the others, i absent mindedly released the pressure with the tool, before i pulled off the roller follower. now when i repeat the procedure it doesn't make that little "pop" noise, and the roller follower is loose, but i can't get it to come off like the others did. do you think i lost the valve? I can still see the little valve stem and i applied pressure with finger every time i use the tool.
first off thank you for all your knowledge it has helped tremendously. but i did the lockout kit rh side cam jumped on me and i could not line phaser but up to my marks i made . all i had was the lock out kit with new cam bolts and wedge tool . so my question do i start from scatch on the timing .i dont want to turn the crank and bend valve iam lost on what to do
if im not changing my cam phaser since ive done them about a month ago do i still need to remove the roller followers. dont have the spring compressor tool and my local store does not either.
I have a 2002 f-150 5.4 2v that I am doing head gaskets on. When I took the timing chain and components off the chain looks just fine and so do the automatic tensioners. I'm planning to replace the other parts though and I'm wondering is Melling is an ok brand to use for those parts? Also I'm wondering if I should just replace tensioners anyway even though they seem ok. Also, I know in this video series you use a melling oil pump rather than ford. would that be ok for mine too? One more question: would you replace the hydraulic valve lifters too and what brand would you use for that? Any help and advice would be appreciated. Thanks!
am i missing something? is my 2007 f250 super duty 5.4 triton the same engine,i went to order parts on amazon and it stated the melling m360 doesnt fit but the m10340 does,same when ordering valve cover gaskets,mine has 14 or 15 screws not 8,any help would be appreciated
I'm doing timing and roller followers(they are all out) on a 2003 4.6l triton. Is it the same as your 5.4l video? And do I absolutely have to remove cams.. and can I install roller followers when I re-install cams?
Do you need to turn the crankshaft to get the key way to 12 o'clock position if you are only replacing the cam phasers and tensioners?
I have 2v version and have gotten to this point (beginning of video) but the crank shaft won't turn. Any ideas?
So I noticed nothing was mention about cleaning the valve covers are they both done the same way as the front cover as far as degreasing and hosing off?
Brian, been following right along with your videos. Doing a complete timing job on my 2006 F150. Need help though! I plan on changing everything... camshafts, roller followers, lifters etc. So to remove the cam shafts, do i still need to take out the 3 rollers on each head first before putting the crankshaft into the neutral 6 o'clock? Or can I just pull the camshafts? I'm real nervous about valve/piston collision or dropping the valve by the keeper coming off. Or won't I have to worry about that by removing the camshaft and all the valves should lift up right?
is the 6.2l 2011 f250 the same? do they lose oil pressure at the chain tensioners?
Thank you for your time!!
Great video series - my guides shatter and came thru the drivers side valve cover, I'm following your series and replacing all timing components, and oil pump. Do you recommend removing oil pan to clean out possible debris? I have a two wheel drive F150?
Thank God for UA-cam. A f150 owners best friend
Do you have to mess with the roller followers if you did the skip for the pahser before messing with replacing the chains
Hi, I noticed at around the 2 min mark the chain comes loose on the passenger side while you are rotating it and then becomes tight again. Is this normal?
Thank you.
hey fordtect, i need your help. i was following your instructions but mad a mistake when setting top dead center, i thought i was on the compression stroke when i wasnt, i removed the timing chains and tensioners before i noticed, i tried to advance the crank without the tensioners on and they slipped back on me. so far nothing has made contact but im a little scared as to what to do next. can you help?
When you hit step 2 and rotate keyway to 6 o’clock , cams are loose, is that a good time to replace any roller followers that are bad? (Assuming not the ones already removed ). Would you also change the lash adjusters while it’s all apart? I have a new to me 04 f-150 5.4 3v but I don’t think it has ever had a timing job. Sounds like chain tensioner leaks causing low oil pressure and ticking at startup, and a general tick while driving like a bad roller follower. Also good time for oil pump upgrade and water pump? Too bad your shop is so far away.... :)
ok so i was following your videos word for word, but then an accident occurred, on of the roller follower got hung under the valve spring on number 5. what i want to know if, at the point that im at now, is it going to hurt to just go ahead and take the cams out???!
What cylinders need to be top dead center to the valves. I bought and 06 f150 that had broken chain guides. I have already taken head off had them inspected and everything checks out I have replaced the head gaskets and torqued them down to specs but I'm running into timing was off when I took everything apart
Hello back again wanted to ask is it a must to remove all the rollers in order to time the crank and cams or can i turn the cams with only the specified rollers removed... what im trying to say is will i damage the valves without removing all the rollers and manually turning the cams that are still pushing valve springs?
Hello , by accident I removed all 3 roller followers in cylinder #1 first by mistake .
Is it ok to leave it like that ? And start with the others because I cannot put back in the two rollers from cylinder #1
Another great video! I’m deep into this job right now. Just about done the teardown and removal of all timing components. I have a question regarding the phasers. When I initially pulled the LH valve cover, I could clearly see that the phaser middle spoke on the reluctor ring was way out of alignment with the “L” timing arrow. However once I neutralized the cams based on your instruction, somewhere along the line the middle spoke returned to the correct position (lining up with the “L” again). Is this normal behavior for the phasers? Trying to figure out if it was indeed bad. I’m replacing them anyways, this is more for my own education. Thanks again for the very helpful series. Wouldn’t have attempted this job without it!
Hi I was changing my vvt solenoid and I drop the bolt in the motor. Any advice would be appreciated thanks
Do I have to take the remaining rocker followed out before I remove the camshaft??
I have a 08 ford F150 5.4 I'm trying to do timing chain and replace all new. It said on vedio take all rocker roller when doing the timing chain set. What I'm trying to figure is there a certain way I know cam lobe is 11 O'clock but is a certain order to put back on and cam I turn crank shaft with out bending valves to put rocker rollers back in it? Also the driver side 11 rocker arm is not coming out what should I do and that's the last one to remove but is giving me hard time to remove?
You done a good job on that replace timing chain ⛓
When I was compressing the spring down, I was a dummy & pushing down on the oil hole side of the follower instead of valve side the keepers are still together but the little indent where they're supposed to sit is above like a 1/4 inch. Do you possibly know of a trick to solve that? Even though you clearly said not to let this happen...😳
Im doing the timing chain i think i did everything like in your video is my firs time i do that i took out both chain but my cams the still not free i dont know what i did wrong can i turn the cams with a tool in till they go free thaks
You are the man! Thank you for this very well done video!
Brian I have an 06 F150 with 290k miles. Engine is completely original but replaced trans at 175k. I have the ticking going on and was thinking of doing this job. Would you recommend doing this on an engine with this many mile or just get a new engine. I really dont want a new car payment and love my truck. Any suggestions? Thanks for all the great videos!
Do I have to remove the 3 roller followers from each side if I’m taking out the cams? Or can I just take the cam caps off and remove the camshafts. I noticed in one of your other videos that you took off the cam caps and then the camshafts without removing the followers.. it was the video where the engine was super sludged up.
Also if I remove the spark plugs then do I still have to remove the first 3 followers on each side?
With everything you're doing on this job, with recommended replacement parts. What would be a price range I could expect to pay? Thanks in advance. Btw love your channel! Great info. 👍
I'll just buy a new engine! My God what a crazy job I've been lost try to figure all this out and I work on vehicles. No thanks! You have the best vids on this job
your a great help! would like to request if possible a work job on replacing a balljoint of 05 freestar is much appriciated... thank u and more power! more videos to come! cheers
Hey so I’m working on my brothers 04 f150 5.4 3v and I was wondering if I absolutely have to remove the cams? 2 timing guides shattered and one tensioner is shot and is a mess but can I get away with just replacing the timing components or do I absolutely have to pull the rollers and cams out? Thank you.
I purchased the cast iron tensioners they did not come with gaskets
Do I just use a squirt of rtv or some gasket maker?
Your thoughts??
There is a packes were came the otc crankshaft position,phaser holding, the spring valve compressor for the rocker for 70 dlls what did you thing? Buy it or not
so my cam is scratched, i can barely feel it with my finger but do i replace it or is it still okay to use?
Thanks for showing all the parts up to the camera
Do you need to take the roller followers out to complete the timing chain job if you have the cam sprocket holder and timing tool?
Does anyone know the size of the cam cap bolt sizes? The guy who worked on this truck before I got it, lost 2 of the cam cap bolts.
Help Please: I am trying to get the camshaft lobs at the right position when i am at the 12 o'clock position. But they are not. I have rotated the Camshaft 360 degrees and the Camshaft lobs are still not at the correct location. But if i put it at the 6 o'clock position cylinder 1 Camshaft lobs are correct but cylinder 5 is not. Does this mean my timing chain jumped. And how do i get the Camshaft lobs to a line correct in the 12 oclock position so i can remove the 6 followers.
Is the 4.6 3v the same as the 5.4 3v? I didn't time my mustang because I removed both heads and removed the camshafts and taken the heads to a shop. Can I put the lash adjusters all back in and the cam followers and the camshaft and put the heads back on?
Brian, did you remove all the roller followers, from this job? I was thinking you were going to show cylinder 1 and cylinder 4, passenger side. I only saw 5 and 8.I assume specific roller followers were removed from 1, and 4, 5, and 8; them another rotation on the crankshaft to remove 2,3,6, and 7?
I think you forgot to mention the 10 mm bolt that is right under the water pump that is also a front cover bolt. The first one I ever did I couldn't figure out why is wasn't coming off and the tech I was working under came right over and showed me lol. Great videos! Keep them coming.
+Diesel Tech Cody I pulled the front cover in the other video. I just scanned along with the camera showing them all. I have never seen a 10mm bolt hold the front cover on this engine.
+FordTechMakuloco oops wrong video. But your correct my mistake. it's a 13mm and you did show it. The one right under the water pump is the one I missed on my first time, just didn't see it on the video.
+FordTechMakuloco what happens if your cam lobes are the way you said the first time before you turned it over again and put it all together a d started it
Can I replace a valve spring in this motor without removing the cam shaft?
Great job(s) on all your videos!
I'm performing the timing chain updates w/water pump and Melling oil pump AFTER I just did cam phasers with the front timing cover on.
I noticed my upper chain tensioner on the RH side was busted b/c I noticed it was loosie goosie after I was done... I don't know if the cheese block broke it, but it could have. It's broken off and looks like it slid down and hanging there on the chain.
I'll have the valve covers off with the front cover to do the timing chain updates.
I plan to have the keyway at the 11:00 position (the dot at the 6:00) when I begin the job (opposite from the video). At this point, all I need to make sure is that my two marked chain links match up with corresponding (RH - pass side - [R] on the phaser) and (LH - driver side [L] on the phaser) with the single marked one at the [DOT] on the sprocket when I put the new chains on - correct?
This seems like it should be that straight forward without having to pull phasers off and no rollers to pull/replace this time around... ONLY b/c I did the phasers already.
Hopefully you verify my plan and respond beforehand, but of course my dad will be there to watch me do it, too. He won't let me screw up.
Help please, want to buy but... Knocking sound from engine, chain was replaced at 59k miles and now is 68k miles. Knocking sound only appears when start the engine, and press accelerator pedal than sound going louder, but after time disappears and when you drive no sound. 2005 (55) - Vauxhall Signum 2.2i Direct Elegance Auto 5-Door ???(Thank you)
this engine is the same as 2003 5.4 ? or it's any difference between the this and 2003
Please I'd really appreciate if you answer my question. If I am doing a timing job and I have to remove the camshaft after removing the first 6 rocker followers (3 per side), do I have to remove the remaining 18 one by one with the special tool? or can I just unbolt the cam holders? I know for reinstalling them I have to do it 1 by 1 with the special tool but you did not mention anyone about removing the remaining 18, just the first 6. Thanks.
Did this project an still getting codes. p0171 and p0358. Was getting misfire po356 before 358. swapped COPs on 8 and same result. Revs up in neutral but will not get over 2k in gear. Home made noid light shows getting signal at 8 cyl. I am at ropes end.
what's the time line on a diy person completing something like this. It doesn't look overly difficult just a lot of steps and having the correct tools.
I'm trying to get the single loan in silinder 8 with the tool u show..I started in cylinder 5 so the 1st two to come out the tool went on where the spring is now sweitchin to cylinder 8 do I reverse the tool I tried it the same side as spring with the feet sitting on the spark plug hole am I doing this correctly???
I need this done on my 05 expedition. How much do you charge to install new timing kit on these 5.4L engines
Hello.. did i miss a step? when key is at 6 and you remove chains then time crank key to 11 but do not see you moving cams? Thanks
can i replace the tensioners with having to re time it as long as the chain doesnt move?
Isn’t it faster to just remove the cams and replace all of the roller followers? That’s what I plan on doing with this 5.4 3 valve that I’m working on. I did not obtain that OTC tool to remove the roller followers. Perhaps I’m missing something in your video instructions? Thank you
When you're timing 5.4 all the rollers are out your at the six aclock position ware should your cam lobes number one piston point to
I am at the 12 o'clock position and the camshaft lobes aren't were they should be. Any tips?
which tensioner guide goes on right bank. longer or shorter guide
Im having issues removing the middle roller followers but the ones that are together are really easy to remove. Any tips?
First I would like to say that your videos are the best out there and thanks a million for your time. I have a question- Is it OK NOT to remove the roller followers as long as I assure nothing moves and the crank is at 12 O'Clock and the #1 piston intake Lobes are at 11 O'Clock? Thank You for your time.