Thank you for the video! Helped me out with my drive shaft replacement! Especially the patience required when refitting the driveshaft and suddenly everything lined up - click!
I was looking for a seal replacement on this style of drive shaft (I'm used to vw drive shafts where the inner cv bolts to the output of the gearbox), and i stumbled accross this video. I work on pumps that rely on this type of seal all the time, I find a little bit of watered down fairy liquid on the outside of the seal (Not enough to make any impact on gearbox oil whatsoever! It's on the outside of the seal it'll never make contact. You could oil it also) Then find a socket that has the same outer diameter (on the flat side, not the hollow side), put an extension bar into the socket backwards, and drive it in that way. It's very easy to see if the seal is straight this way
Thanks! It's amazing how long I've searched to find this simple tutorial. I finally figured out NOT to put in "2010 Sequoia". But also, nice and clear! Thanks!
Many thanks Si, did both driveshaft seals thanks to this video - hopefully last 100K miles at which point i'll be at 500K miles on my trusty old V70 D5. PS. fixed the fuel lock cap also thanks to your other video.
I love it! Real world work-on-your-driveway-with-Thor-the-Mighty-Hammer job. No Volvo Special Tool Number 295Y2-003 needed. Thank you for showing me how to do it. Next time I'll look at your video before spending two days bashing my knuckles and swearing a lot. Subscribed. Of course!
top tip, to get stubshaft seal out , knock it inwards . i tapped a big screw driver on seal face on one point and it knocks it in at an angle, and allows easy removal , saves and risk of damage. also, keep new seal in freezer overnight and fit quickly !
Hi Sir. I'm glad to meet you. I recently had the oil seal replaced in the garage .. but once mounted the range rover was on jacks with the wheels hanging out all the way .. at that moment the mechanic lifted the lift so the range was on his 4 wheels..then he removed the trestles ...and then he started lowering the car and just 1 meter above the floor. A huge but really a mega bang under the car. From that moment on my engine runs irregularly and as soon as I put it in drive and release the brake the car skips all it were it gets worse and now the mechanic says can't blame that bang if I 50 speed and a little bit of gas shocks the whole car .. again that bang that was released there .. makes me suspect that the spring washer was not quite right is this possible? greetings benito
If the mechanic doesn't take responsibility and make it right then you need to get yourself a solicitor and go after the mechanic in court for damages.
It's probably a silly question but will the oil not splash out when I remove both dribe shafts? I have an automatic transmission and I am getting mentally ready to do this job
Spot on!!! The cleanest and best explained video I've been. Many thanks for your time and kindness sharing it. How do you know is time to replace that part? Regards
VIdeo just right in time! I changed the passenger side shaft a mont ago on my XC70 D5. Now the ñeft one is wobbling... Is it normal that is has a little bit of play on the gearbox side? I mean, the part that goes into the gearbox
I cannot find a new/remanufactured Volvo 31259517, because the original has a 40mm transmission seal whereas the new parts have 55mm seal. Is it acceptable to delete the corteco transmission seal and fit metal to metal relying upon the diagonal grooves to keep it oil tight?
A very clear video..thanks. Need to replace O/S seal on a C30..is it absolutely necessary to remove the drive shaft completely from the hub assembly or can you just detached ARB and track rod?
Good video si I have an issue with a driveshaft at the moment but think it may be a diff bearing, how much movement should be in the shaft end in the gearbox
They may be sided on some models and Vida will confirm one way or another. Regardless, there's no reason to spend such a large amount of money for something that can be bought much cheaper for the same quality.
HI Simon.. had both new axles put in by a very competent mechanic the other day. (1997 Honda Accord 2.2L Automatic) The driver side came out of the tranny and is leaking like crazy, a Valvoline oil change shop told me today. Can the shaft be tapped or hammered back in by only removing the outside axle nut? Thank you
No because the hammer blow is transferring excess force through the inner and outer cv joints and almost none of that force will reach where it's needed. There are no shortcuts. Remove the driveshaft, check the seal and recheck all work done.
I have stumbled across this video on by mistake what I'm trying to do is remove the main drive shaft from a Kubota RTV 500 I'm wondering if I need to get into the gearbox any help would be appreciated
Hi Simon - on installing the driver side driveshaft do you grease the spline that goes into the transmission. I pulled it out and it seems to have a lot of corrosion.
If the splines are thoroughly clean on the shaft and in the gearbox that should be enough. Surface corrosion isn't unusual. If the shaft has a circlip, a small amount of thick grease to keep the circlip centered will help with installation.
If the vehicle has only 12000km and I very carefully remove the drive shafts, can I use the same oil seals (if I reinsert the drive shafts) or must the seals be replaced regardless?
You don't have to change the seal if it's ok and you are careful but they are not expensive and I would recommend fitting new seals whilst you are doing the work.
hi, friend. I have an xc90 163cv from 2004 and I wanted to ask you if removing the automatic transmission side causes oil to leak or does this model not leak oil? thank you
@CarlosLopez-jj6ks Both wheels will need to be off the ground throughout anyway so if you do one shaft at a time and angle the car up slightly more on the side you're working on, I'm sure you'll be fine.
It just needs to look however it looked before removal and should locate itself with a positive clunk when installing. If it's too far out, reassembly will be almost impossible.
@@sirobb that's my main problem. I didn't see how it was in last. It was lashing it down with rain dropping in my face. My own fault really but the last one I tried smacking in with some pipe and destroyed it. So I have to attempt again today.😓
@@sirobb yes, its been performing beautifully since the injector replacement, never run better than it is doing now, think I've done circa 2k on it since the replacement and it makes me smile every time I turn the key, cheers
@@andycapo9you Me and Glyn replaced it together. We did a leak back test first which confirmed an excessively leaking injector number 3 (?) and we replaced with a used injector from a breakers. The long cranking before starting problem was cured immediately.
@@TWG420 In the UK, this is called a driveshaft and everyone around the world knows what the video is referring to. You're the first in tens of thousands of views to say different but ok.
Hi and thanks so much for your videos. I have a strange chirping sound coming from the engine area of my D5... any ideas? I could post a video if that would help. Btw car runs perfect
Hi, the first obvious starting point is a failing alternator clutch pulley or one of the other auxiliary belt pulleys as a next guess. I have specific videos for the clutch pulley and auxiliary belt area in my Playlist called "Cars" so take a look there first. Good luck.
SiRobb, thanks so much for getting back to me. I will watch then try to find it... I will do a video and post it if I can’t resolve. Would you mind having a look for me. I love this car and want to keep it tip top. Cheers Nick
Hi Simon, thanks again for your help. On close inspection I think the chirping noise is coming for the area of the pulleys and is probably the clutch pulley...I managed to do a little video. Please give me your thoughts. ua-cam.com/video/LvqX6y-MQ0U/v-deo.html Cheers Nick
@@Anonymous-mc4su Because if you leave it in, the weight and motion of the components you're moving in the area might snap the cable. Why would you risk that for 10 seconds and one bolt to eliminate the risk?
If the seal is the exact correct size, all mating surfaces are clean and lightly greased and the seal is inserted straight and flush like in this video, provided you carefully insert the driveshaft so the seal isn't damaged, there's no reason why the seal will leak.
My gearbox was drained as I was replacing the oil anyway. You may not need to drain the oil if you tilt the car enough but I would recommend doing it on an empty gearbox.
@@sirobb I was thinking I might be able to tip it over enough to stop it coming out. Probably best option for me as you can't get to my drain plug unless you drop gearbox slightly as its not in its intended car lol
@@sirobb information from the SKF website - These have either a right-hand twist for shafts that rotate clockwise, or a left-hand twist for shafts that rotate counter-clockwise as seen from the air side
@@p--n I used the Volvo main dealer software for my parts diagram and the part number is the same both sides. That's obviously for my exact car configuration though so yours *may* be different.
@@sirobb Ok, and do you know what would be the best alternative or the best option if the cv joint goes bad. What brand do you recomend and who makes them for Volvo.
@@sirobb It is finally done after about an hour on it. At some point I wanted to take the shaft out and compress manually the circlip to make it closer but couldn't take it out. Finally I used a kind stick of wood and shocked it in, it had to be very well aligned, and it worked. For the story, I went all around my town with the old circlip searching for a second one (which was broken inside the joint). At the end no-one had this kind of ring, and on my way back my old one fell in the ( tidy) car. I searched and searched but could not find it back so got a new one.
There's no fixed price unfortunately. Labour should be 1-2 hours at whatever their hourly rate is and a whole new shaft can be between £75 and several hundred pounds depending on quality and the type of car.
@@HawxAnimator There's some reshooting of shots. The video also does not contain everything that was filmed or every check that was carried out to make sure the job is done right. No one wants to watch that. 😊 2 years on since the video was made and all is still well.
Ok. I am at a loss what to do. My mechanic says it’s an inner cv joint but I have been to other two including Volvo and they all said it’s the same apart from one: he said it’s the differential inside the transmission. Both things are expensive but not sure which one is correct. I’m including two videos from my channel: a bigger picture and a close up: ua-cam.com/video/Oh2HT6s4Ceg/v-deo.html ua-cam.com/video/aOxZVIoROi0/v-deo.html Thanks 🙏
Great videos which have been invaluable. I’ve just swapped my front OS drive shaft on my 2005 XC70 cross country. The section of the old shaft that goes inside the auto gearbox is totally dry and has rust. I’ve not drained the gearbox and the oil level is okay. Looking through the hole where the shaft inserts looks dry too. I’m really confused as I was expecting it to be covered in gearbox oil. Any ideas/advice. Car drives okay. I have a photo of the old drive shaft in the link below. Thanks! ua-cam.com/video/QQ6DsNhktso/v-deo.html
The corrosion at the end just looks like an extension of the corrosion on the main shaft that's worked its way along. Keep an eye on that as it looks pretty advanced.
Thank you for the video! Helped me out with my drive shaft replacement! Especially the patience required when refitting the driveshaft and suddenly everything lined up - click!
I was looking for a seal replacement on this style of drive shaft (I'm used to vw drive shafts where the inner cv bolts to the output of the gearbox), and i stumbled accross this video.
I work on pumps that rely on this type of seal all the time, I find a little bit of watered down fairy liquid on the outside of the seal (Not enough to make any impact on gearbox oil whatsoever! It's on the outside of the seal it'll never make contact. You could oil it also)
Then find a socket that has the same outer diameter (on the flat side, not the hollow side), put an extension bar into the socket backwards, and drive it in that way. It's very easy to see if the seal is straight this way
Thanks! It's amazing how long I've searched to find this simple tutorial. I finally figured out NOT to put in "2010 Sequoia". But also, nice and clear! Thanks!
I am just doing the Relucter ring today oh how I wish my drive shaft would just drift out like yours did!!!
Many thanks Si, did both driveshaft seals thanks to this video - hopefully last 100K miles at which point i'll be at 500K miles on my trusty old V70 D5. PS. fixed the fuel lock cap also thanks to your other video.
Thank you for taking the effort to make the video, very helpful.
Very informative and excellently filmed.
I know zip about vehicles but this was an excellent tutorial, thanks.
I love it! Real world work-on-your-driveway-with-Thor-the-Mighty-Hammer job. No Volvo Special Tool Number 295Y2-003 needed. Thank you for showing me how to do it. Next time I'll look at your video before spending two days bashing my knuckles and swearing a lot. Subscribed. Of course!
Hi Simon, thanks for another very informative and instructional video. Stay safe and keep up the good work.
This video is amazingly well done,and very easy to follow.
Thank youm
top tip, to get stubshaft seal out , knock it inwards . i tapped a big screw driver on seal face on one point and it knocks it in at an angle, and allows easy removal , saves and risk of damage.
also, keep new seal in freezer overnight and fit quickly !
Wow, thank you for the freezer part, cool trick!
Did you guess i wanted to change mine??!!!! Once again Many Thanks. Amazing!!
Great video! Not many about for this job, us ford focus MK2 ST owners we thank you 🤣🤘✌
Many thanks for sharing this video
Hi Sir. I'm glad to meet you. I recently had the oil seal replaced in the garage .. but once mounted the range rover was on jacks with the wheels hanging out all the way .. at that moment the mechanic lifted the lift so the range was on his 4 wheels..then he removed the trestles ...and then he started lowering the car and just 1 meter above the floor. A huge but really a mega bang under the car. From that moment on my engine runs irregularly and as soon as I put it in drive and release the brake the car skips all it were it gets worse and now the mechanic says can't blame that bang if I 50 speed and a little bit of gas shocks the whole car .. again that bang that was released there .. makes me suspect that the spring washer was not quite right is this possible? greetings benito
If the mechanic doesn't take responsibility and make it right then you need to get yourself a solicitor and go after the mechanic in court for damages.
super helpful, just what I needed!
Another informative video, thanks Simon.
You might want to consider marking the shaft before removing it; as some driveshafts are balanced. It's just good practise
Thanks, really well made video. Many thanks
It's probably a silly question but will the oil not splash out when I remove both dribe shafts? I have an automatic transmission and I am getting mentally ready to do this job
Do one at a time and angle the car.
Spot on!!! The cleanest and best explained video I've been.
Many thanks for your time and kindness sharing it.
How do you know is time to replace that part?
Regards
Hi could just confirm there is a rubber collar between the drive shaft and the hub ? Great vid
Depends on model year.
Mine doesn't but around 2003 model year onwards may have.
It's a pretty big seal so it'll be obvious once you're in there.
Be nice to have one for replacing inner cv rubber boot right hand side.
VIdeo just right in time! I changed the passenger side shaft a mont ago on my XC70 D5. Now the ñeft one is wobbling... Is it normal that is has a little bit of play on the gearbox side? I mean, the part that goes into the gearbox
Defining "play" is difficult.
It's not supposed to be rock solid but obviously it shouldn't slack either.
I cannot find a new/remanufactured Volvo 31259517, because the original has a 40mm transmission seal whereas the new parts have 55mm seal. Is it acceptable to delete the corteco transmission seal and fit metal to metal relying upon the diagonal grooves to keep it oil tight?
A very clear video..thanks. Need to replace O/S seal on a C30..is it absolutely necessary to remove the drive shaft completely from the hub assembly or can you just detached ARB and track rod?
You need to remove the shaft from the hub.
Good video si I have an issue with a driveshaft at the moment but think it may be a diff bearing, how much movement should be in the shaft end in the gearbox
Great video. Do you know if the shaft bearing on the longer driveshaft can be replaced (avoid the need for a completely new shaft)?
Very good video and explains 👍🏻
Thanks great detail job
Hi Simon, really good video, if the CV boots are split and leaking would you replace the boots or complete driveshafts? many thanks geoff
Great video. What type of transmission is it ?
Is there a difference for the disassembly /reassembly between manual and automatic transmission ?
This is a manual. I'm not aware of any differences for the automatic.
very good job 👍 thankful good works .
Thanks Simon. :)
Why did you have to remove the shock at the drivers side?
Very well explained good video 👍
Great video, thanks
Very good excelent info.
Hellya great writeup
I got a quote from volvo for the seals and they wanted £50.40. For both. They also told me they where sided.
They may be sided on some models and Vida will confirm one way or another.
Regardless, there's no reason to spend such a large amount of money for something that can be bought much cheaper for the same quality.
Very good vid. Simon. Question.....is a little wobble from the shaft normal?
Define wobble.....
Great video
HI Simon.. had both new axles put in by a very competent mechanic the other day. (1997 Honda Accord 2.2L Automatic) The driver side came out of the tranny and is leaking like crazy, a Valvoline oil change shop told me today. Can the shaft be tapped or hammered back in by only removing the outside axle nut? Thank you
No because the hammer blow is transferring excess force through the inner and outer cv joints and almost none of that force will reach where it's needed.
There are no shortcuts. Remove the driveshaft, check the seal and recheck all work done.
Great video!
I have stumbled across this video on by mistake what I'm trying to do is remove the main drive shaft from a Kubota RTV 500 I'm wondering if I need to get into the gearbox any help would be appreciated
I doubt you'd need to do that. Just Google "Kubota RTV axle shaft."
@@sirobb I got her bud boots and spiders. One seal does have to go just under 5ft shaft.,well mm so bent drive shaft
Hi Simon - on installing the driver side driveshaft do you grease the spline that goes into the transmission. I pulled it out and it seems to have a lot of corrosion.
If the splines are thoroughly clean on the shaft and in the gearbox that should be enough.
Surface corrosion isn't unusual.
If the shaft has a circlip, a small amount of thick grease to keep the circlip centered will help with installation.
If the vehicle has only 12000km and I very carefully remove the drive shafts, can I use the same oil seals (if I reinsert the drive shafts) or must the seals be replaced regardless?
You don't have to change the seal if it's ok and you are careful but they are not expensive and I would recommend fitting new seals whilst you are doing the work.
hi, friend. I have an xc90 163cv from 2004 and I wanted to ask you if removing the automatic transmission side causes oil to leak or does this model not leak oil? thank you
It probably won't leak if the car is angled correctly. Regardless, I would drain and replace the transmission fluid whilst doing the job.
The transmission fluid was changed a month ago so I was worried about losing it during the change. Thank you very much for answering.
@CarlosLopez-jj6ks Both wheels will need to be off the ground throughout anyway so if you do one shaft at a time and angle the car up slightly more on the side you're working on, I'm sure you'll be fine.
Thank you!
No cir clip on the longer shaft would that be the same for a 2005 relay van as mine didn't have a cir clip?
I don't know specifically but if the shaft is held in place with a bearing support like in this video, there's no need for a circlip.
@@sirobb much appreciated rob👍
I can get my finger behind it slightly. Is this ok or does it have to be push right back as far as it will go.
It just needs to look however it looked before removal and should locate itself with a positive clunk when installing.
If it's too far out, reassembly will be almost impossible.
@@sirobb that's my main problem. I didn't see how it was in last. It was lashing it down with rain dropping in my face. My own fault really but the last one I tried smacking in with some pipe and destroyed it. So I have to attempt again today.😓
Top job as always
Thanks Glyn. Is your XC still behaving?
@@sirobb yes, its been performing beautifully since the injector replacement, never run better than it is doing now, think I've done circa 2k on it since the replacement and it makes me smile every time I turn the key, cheers
That's excellent Glyn and I'm glad I was able to help.
@@SkipjackUK Did you do the Injector replacement yourself or someone did it for you? Thanks in advance
@@andycapo9you Me and Glyn replaced it together.
We did a leak back test first which confirmed an excessively leaking injector number 3 (?) and we replaced with a used injector from a breakers.
The long cranking before starting problem was cured immediately.
I'm assuming that's a front wheel drive. And that's your drive axle or axle shaft or cv axle.
@@TWG420 In the UK, this is called a driveshaft and everyone around the world knows what the video is referring to. You're the first in tens of thousands of views to say different but ok.
wat gear dose the car have to be in when u do this?, neutral park drive? any difrence or depending on car model manufactureer?
Neutral
Hi and thanks so much for your videos. I have a strange chirping sound coming from the engine area of my D5... any ideas? I could post a video if that would help. Btw car runs perfect
Hi, the first obvious starting point is a failing alternator clutch pulley or one of the other auxiliary belt pulleys as a next guess.
I have specific videos for the clutch pulley and auxiliary belt area in my Playlist called "Cars" so take a look there first.
Good luck.
SiRobb, thanks so much for getting back to me. I will watch then try to find it... I will do a video and post it if I can’t resolve. Would you mind having a look for me. I love this car and want to keep it tip top.
Cheers
Nick
@@sinemetu9037 Sure. If you need to make a video, just post a link to it in these comments.
Hi Simon, thanks again for your help. On close inspection I think the chirping noise is coming for the area of the pulleys and is probably the clutch pulley...I managed to do a little video. Please give me your thoughts. ua-cam.com/video/LvqX6y-MQ0U/v-deo.html
Cheers
Nick
It sounds like it could well be a pulley but the auxiliary belt will have to come off to inspect them properly.
That is very good
thank you
When Im driving about 40mph + I can hear like an aeroplan sound is that driveshaft problem ?
Yes or possibly a wheel bearing.
Does the pitch of the sound change with speed?
Why did you take the abs sensor out?
@@Anonymous-mc4su Because if you leave it in, the weight and motion of the components you're moving in the area might snap the cable.
Why would you risk that for 10 seconds and one bolt to eliminate the risk?
After i change the seal.got some leaking after few day.how to make sure the seal properly sit inside before install driveshaft?i need to re-do again.
Did you follow this video exactly?
@@sirobb not really because ive done before see this video.i push seal with rubber hammer.
If the seal is the exact correct size, all mating surfaces are clean and lightly greased and the seal is inserted straight and flush like in this video, provided you carefully insert the driveshaft so the seal isn't damaged, there's no reason why the seal will leak.
@@sirobb tqvm sirr
Thanks
So does the gearbox oil need to be drained first?
Hi Did you have to drain your gearbox oil first?
My gearbox was drained as I was replacing the oil anyway.
You may not need to drain the oil if you tilt the car enough but I would recommend doing it on an empty gearbox.
@@sirobb I was thinking I might be able to tip it over enough to stop it coming out. Probably best option for me as you can't get to my drain plug unless you drop gearbox slightly as its not in its intended car lol
Good video ❤️🖖
Do we need to drain out the ATF?
It would be best to.
You could tilt the car and hope for no fluid loss but that's unlikely.
@@sirobb Thanks
Can somebody explain seal swirl type right hand twist please?
?
@@sirobb I've placed an online order for the same brand of seal as used in the video. That description was part of the specification
@@p--n Corteco are superb so just match the part number and the spec will be automatically correct. Less research required.
@@sirobb information from the SKF website - These have either a right-hand twist for shafts that rotate clockwise, or a left-hand twist for shafts that rotate counter-clockwise as seen from the air side
@@p--n I used the Volvo main dealer software for my parts diagram and the part number is the same both sides.
That's obviously for my exact car configuration though so yours *may* be different.
Have you used genuine Volvo driveshafts.
I only changed the seals. The original genuine Volvo driveshafts were OK.
@@sirobb Ok, and do you know what would be the best alternative or the best option if the cv joint goes bad. What brand do you recomend and who makes them for Volvo.
I don't know who makes the genuine shafts but I would be happy buying a used low mileage genuine shaft from a Volvo breaker.
@@sirobb Yes that would be great. Thanks again.
I am having high difficulties to put it back with the new circlip !
Use the old circlip instead.
@@sirobb It is finally done after about an hour on it. At some point I wanted to take the shaft out and compress manually the circlip to make it closer but couldn't take it out. Finally I used a kind stick of wood and shocked it in, it had to be very well aligned, and it worked. For the story, I went all around my town with the old circlip searching for a second one (which was broken inside the joint). At the end no-one had this kind of ring, and on my way back my old one fell in the ( tidy) car. I searched and searched but could not find it back so got a new one.
Also to get the circlips, the cheapest way I found was to buy two c.v. joint repair kit with one circlip in each...
How much should it cost mechanics to replace offside driveshaft into gearbox?
There's no fixed price unfortunately.
Labour should be 1-2 hours at whatever their hourly rate is and a whole new shaft can be between £75 and several hundred pounds depending on quality and the type of car.
Great video good reference to come back to, shame u cleaned up all the faces then used dirty hands to put it in 🤣
Dirty hands weren't on anything that doesn't already get dirty with daily driving.
@@sirobb it’s just where you grab the outside of the seal, but i agree the side facing away from the gearbox will get plastered in grime
@@HawxAnimator There's some reshooting of shots.
The video also does not contain everything that was filmed or every check that was carried out to make sure the job is done right. No one wants to watch that. 😊
2 years on since the video was made and all is still well.
@@sirobb Ahh i see, behind the scenes trickery. No problems there then, if all is good
Ok. I am at a loss what to do. My mechanic says it’s an inner cv joint but I have been to other two including Volvo and they all said it’s the same apart from one: he said it’s the differential inside the transmission. Both things are expensive but not sure which one is correct. I’m including two videos from my channel: a bigger picture and a close up:
ua-cam.com/video/Oh2HT6s4Ceg/v-deo.html
ua-cam.com/video/aOxZVIoROi0/v-deo.html
Thanks 🙏
निसान एक्स ट्रेल का शुक्र
Great videos which have been invaluable.
I’ve just swapped my front OS drive shaft on my 2005 XC70 cross country. The section of the old shaft that goes inside the auto gearbox is totally dry and has rust. I’ve not drained the gearbox and the oil level is okay. Looking through the hole where the shaft inserts looks dry too. I’m really confused as I was expecting it to be covered in gearbox oil. Any ideas/advice. Car drives okay. I have a photo of the old drive shaft in the link below. Thanks!
ua-cam.com/video/QQ6DsNhktso/v-deo.html
The corrosion at the end just looks like an extension of the corrosion on the main shaft that's worked its way along.
Keep an eye on that as it looks pretty advanced.
Ok
Hmmm. That's not your drive shaft but ok...
@@TWG420 Please educate us all.....
Using open ended spanners makes me shudder, and I've never seen a taper joint come apart so easily, after that I stopped watching
Cool. Be sure to stay that way. 👍
thanks
Thanks