Duravent Chimney Pipe - How to install a Duravent Chimney Roof Flashing
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- Опубліковано 4 жов 2024
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Joe walks you through how to install your chimney roof flashing.
You will need to center and test the pipe fitting before permanently installing the flashing to the roof to ensure proper fit. You will also want to install the flashing before extending the chimney above the roof. Allow space to permit sliding the next Chimney Section down through the Flashing. Always insure the chimney remains vertical (use a level), and that at least a 2-inch clearance to combustible materials is maintained all around.
Install the upper edge of the flashing under the roofing shingles by gently prying the shingles off of the tar line and removing any nails that may be sticking up and preventing the flashing from lining up with the opening in the roof. Gently work the flashing under the shingles so that it lines up over the opening, trim shingles around the flashing so that they lay flat.
Place a bead of high temperature silicone all the way around the underside of the flashing 1-2 inches in, this is not required but does add that extra line of defense from water intrusion.
Nail the flashing to the roof along the upper edge and down each side with 1-inch roofing nails, about 4 inches apart. Seal all nail heads with a High Temperature non-hardening waterproof sealant. Do not put screws through the Flashing into the Chimney Pipe.
Slide the chimney pipe down through the flashing and connect to the chimney pipe below or to the support box. Run a bead of high-temp silicone sealant just above where the collar will sit int the pipe. Place the storm collar around the chimney pipe and select the correct size needed to fit your pipe, some storm collars fit multiple sizes of pipe, trim off any excess if necessary. Insert tab into the slots on the collar so that it come out the other side and gently bend the tab back over to "lock" it in place. Push the collar down to the flashing and seal on top with a high temperature non-hardening waterproof silicone sealant. Also be sure to run a bead down the seam and around the tab.
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Very good video, however when I installed B vents I would put a bead of caulking just above the top of the flashing where the storm collar meets the flashing. This way you seal the underside as well!
Just a little input on the roofing aspect of your video. When lifting (3 tab) shingles you want to make sure you remove the nails don't just pull the shingle over the nail heads, leaving the nails. If done properly the shingles should come down the flashing about half way or more, a bead of silicon under your flashing and under each tab that was altered or lifted and all exposed nail heads is required. Fibered roof cement is the best advise, difficult for most DIY people to deal with...The rain slot above and behind the flashing should be filled also. In almost all cases of pipe flashing two nails, one at each bottom corner is typical; any more just increases the chances of one backing out and producing a leak. The bead of silicon on the face edge is unnecessary and can actually act as a water trap, backing up water under the edge And bottom of the flashing over time. Snow contacting with the roof melts and backs up under shingles, nails and flashings as well as driving rains; and those shingles must be properly re-nailed and sealed down or they blow in the wind and break off.I must say you did a good job on the video and I appreciate the info. Thanks!
Curious , why would u out caulking on the bottom side of ur flashing. Around the top side and on both sides underneath I can understand, but not on the down hill
Side , if water would get in on the top side , by leaving the Bottom not caulked would allow the water to at least have a chance of flowing out . No?
If the wind is strong enough, I have rainwater actually blowing upslope under the flashing.
im curious how long those single beads keep water out? Heck, id use permatex ultra high temp, and probably use 2 storm collars just in case with a layer of RTV between the 2.. do these ever start leaking?
Your videos helped us SOOOOO much when installing our woodstove and making sure we did it right! Thanks a bunch!
Great video...straight to the point and very descriptive. TY
OK. I'll try it the storm collar seal can use silicon. I thought it would be a more heat resistant product but we'll try it.
@Sir Clip Hi, I shouldn't say.
Why didn't you lift the shingles underneath the flashing, over it?
I don't mean to criticize your video, but the first thing I look at when learning from or analyzing a journeyman on any project is the tools he shows up to use. I have never seen a roofer even own let alone use a $3 hammer like that, and the caulking? why are you using a silicone caulking where there is only minimal sticking at best? Maybe it's just us, but roofers I know never use a silicone caulk. Why not recommend a polyurathane caulk like Polymer GeoCell4350 construction sealant or equivalent? This is something compatible with both asphalt, wood, concrete, lead and/or sheet metal. Next, wouldn't it be better to install your flashing one course lower so that the roofing vent is completely covered by the elements? And when you caulk the lower edge of the flashing, why don't you spot caulk so that if water ever does get in, it can also then get out? And if you had the proper shingle overlap, why would you be nailing the flashing down when the lower edge is already caulked in place? Had the flashing been installed 1 course lower, your nails would have been covered by the shingle course. And since this metal is unprimed, in only a short time, this type of caulking will simply peel off the sheet metal. You won't find this type of caulking at any roofing supply store. This type of caulking is what you end up with when you go to an Ace Hardware or Home Depot type of supplier, not a specialty supplier. But at least you made the video, I could never do that.
Todd White As a fellow roofer, I agree with everything in this comment. If you dont know what you are doing dont show others how to do it. All these people that you showed how to "do it right" will find the problems coming soon. thanks Todd for sharing your wisdom! Cheers
+Vbg Vbg Oh Really? So you agree with this video's procedure? Why don't you point out to me where my corrections are out of line or mis-stated?
Todd White: How do we know how many rows of shingles to get under? I see in the video his flashing spans 5 rows total. The video has the flashing under the 1st two rows only. How do we know if we should have put it under the 3rd, or even 4th row? What principle do we use? thanks! P.S. I agree, NEVER caulk the bottom edge underneath in case water gets in there; it needs to get out.
America has spent quadrillions of dollars in our schools since its creation; and sadly MOST do not know, how or when to USE paragraphs; not to mention how to punctuate. Sad indeed.
The comment of Todd White, NEEDS at least 4 paragraphs, and a number of comma's, etc; to make his comment easy to read.
So most of the money for school education was worthless. Oh well.
@@MrPatdeeee Back in my day, schooling was never my calling. I learned to work with my hands, not my words. I know how to work, not how to spell or punctuate. But I made certain my kids, grandkids and now great grandkids do. But even at 80, if you want to learn how to keep water out of your home, just ask me. I may not be able to punctuate a paragraph, but i can certainly show you how to re-roof your home, cook a meal or rebuild the motor of your car as long as it was built before 1975.
Safety first!! Wear gloves, metal is sharp! Don’t let anything slide off the roof, obvious reasons. Amazing how you got the chimney pipe to not just fall inside???
he has the stove pipe underneath or a roof box to catch it
I'm sorry, but this is not how you install chimney flashing. You're relying on the caulk on those nails to prevent leaks. Ice & water shield needs to go down and the shingles need to overlap the flange on the back, right and left sides. Nails are not installed on the front side of the chimney flange either. Caulk eventually breaks down.
Sealant should be applied generously to the bottom of the flashing before it's even installed.
No it should be on the top and both sides, do not seal the bottom to allow moisture to escape.
@@curtisbragg Right
@@curtisbragg When winds are strong in the right direction, I have rain blowing upslope under the flashing and getting inside. If I do not seal the bottom, how do I prevent this?
Should I replace that collar every time I reroof the roof? Same with valley flashing? My roof if made of SIPs. Structural Insulated Panels
What type of silicone was that?
Thanks, i feel thru my roof
Does the flashing go underneath the underlayment aswell? Or just under the shingles?
Thanks bro!
Genuinely curious as to why he's using silicone and not polyurethane for the flashing. Also I use screws and cover them in poly also. I also put a bead of it above and below the storm collar but I don't put any underneath the flashing and my installs never get leaks. Also very confused why he would only go under 2 rows of shingles, I go under as many as possible. For 8dm pipe on a steep roof that could be 4 rows of shingles. I install fireplaces and thats how I was taught, if anyone has any input it would be appreciated, I'm just confused why everything he does is different
There should be another pipe about an inch or two bigger in diameter that sits on the storm collar. If you do that water will never even come in contact with the seam on the collar and main chimney pipe.
It’s a good concept but when heat and cold are present at the same time condensation happens in between the two pipes. So if you don’t insulate between the original vent and the flashing pipe you will still get water passing by the storm collar into the house. So it’s better to just use your regular storm collar and use a caulk like Henry’s or a polymer caulk that is ok to use on unprimed sheet metal. The type of storm collar that you’re talking about and the extra pipe is just an extra cost that is making some company money.
You never put it now directly into the flashing you supposed to go up higher with the flashing and then you let the nail head catch the flashing do not penetrate
OMG! Put the pipe in before putting the flashing over it. Otherwise the divots on the flashing scratch up your pipe!
Yeah definitely wrong installation . That flashing should be under as many shingles as possible. Its best to cut the hole and than remove shingles and then caulk and nail as you reinstall the shingles.
shingles need to come down 2 more rows along the sides people
EXACTLY!!
Calls clients to give out new company UA-cam channel! Lmao
I'm not trying to criticize your job,, but probably a roofer HELPER with lack of experience could do it just like you
You didn’t cover the inside cutting
What if you have a metal roof?
Then you need a different flashing made for metal roofs. whole different ball game. couple different ways it can be done, depending on what kind of metal roofing you have .
Example of HOW NOT to do a chimney installation.
Amen!
He's no roofer. Thats for sure.
Excellent video, thanks.
2 yrs and it'll leak.
You always want that type of flashing to go under atkeast 3 rows of shingles.
This is a hack job.
You did it wrong. The flashing should not go over the shingles but under them.
you dont put the flashing under the singles unless you want water to get under the shingles so you can replace the persons roof sheeting 3 years later. Shtbird
ur welcome
Ur wrong. U out Approx the top 70% of flashing under the shingles. The bottom
1/3 of flashing MUST be on top of shingles or u will have water in ur house. That’s only common sense. !
Dude, you didn’t go far enough under the shingles. Man you didn’t do your customer justice. Crappy job, that’ll eventually leak.
What color and what brand is the silicone
Don't use silicone, Use roofing asphalt tar sealant in a tube.
And don't use this guys install method, unless you want major leaks.
Anyone that uses silicone for roofing shouldn't do roofing.
Amen!
We always said that Mastick was another name for mistake. Installing a successful roof and keeping water out of a home is done by water diversion, not by creating a series of dams.
you able to install this on a flat roof with a rubber membrane instead of your typical singles?
Chad Berlin Different roofing material, and different install method. same goal, water flows the same no matter the material or slope. Just remember how water flows.
That piece of flashing is over $300 !
The nails is a problem down to road a bout few year late! Water leaking. He did install incorrectly too that why he used the nail for it. He should remove this video so it will help people not do the wrong thing he did
good job
Ignore the negative comments. People can be rude. There are many ways to disagree with work, but in a kind way.
Several things wrong with this video. It would be nonsensical to ignore the negative comments.
Probably an ex-employee looking to get revenge on the company for not taking care of him lmao
Not right
Please do not follow the instructions on this video. This is done horribly wrong.
Amen!
CAN I GET AN AMEN TO THAT.....
This is a HOW NOT TO DO video !
Yeah this is bad. The hole looked good though.
The install is wrong
I see this is an old video. How long after this did the roof starting leaking? What a terrible install. 🤦 I felt bad for the homeowners and I don't even know them. Hopefully you have learned how to install these by now. 🤢
B.s....order a kit and you'll get mismatched parts, 3 weeks later maybe get right stuff..get supposed right stuff and it wont fit...they want u to hire somebody... guaranteed you will have many more headaches than this guy... I have yet to see a complete video on installing stovepipe
Lmmfao he did this completely wrong you don’t put it on top of the shingles you go under lmao wow
This is a very poor example of the installation of any chimney. Something I would not like to have done to my roof.
exactly, Do not use this video as a how to its a OMG don't do it like this.
Do NOT use this video for guidance!!! So many mistakes! Silicone caulking is NOT compatible with asphalt shingles, the side shingles need to go OVER the flashing except the very bottom edge, and do NOT seal the bottom edge! Even the storm collar detail is wrong!
yikes.
Another How NOT To Do video