You test was consistent on both brands l have reloaded both Xtreme and Barry’s for years and found the same results on bullet weights that your test concluded. However Xtreme bullets are much cheaper to shoot and shoot just as well as the Barrys , plus the Xtreme bullets have a crimp groove in many of there pistol bullets. For my money I pick the Xtreme bullets ever time and most of the time Xtreme has a 10 percent off sale with free shipping.
Thanks for running through the exercise. We need to keep in mind the SAAMI standards show that bullets weighing less than 100gr have a weight tolerance of ±2.0% and those 100gr and heavier have a weight tolerance of ±1.5%. The 124gr can vary by ±1.86gr and the 180gr can vary by ±2.7gr.
Thanks for the weight test!! Just placed my first order of Berry's 9mm 124gr Hybrid HP's. Been loading the Extreme 115gr FMJ RN and am very happy with them at the range, using 5.5gr of Win 572. Cut my group size nearly in half @ 7yds, compared to average mfg ammo (nothing expensive or boutique). The Hybrid HP's are designed for self-defense situations, so we'll see how they perform (at the range, that is).
Ive shot both, and I'm a pretty decent shooter (9 years Marine Corp Marksmanship Coach) and i couldn't tell the difference. I have weighed random batches I found the Berry's and the Xteme bullets to be pretty close in their claimed weights (+/- .3gr). Honestly I don't care about the actual weight spreed so much as the consistency in the weights. Just like with long range rifle bullets. A 165gr will shoot just as good as a 170gr, but if you shoot them back to back you will see a difference. So if you're concerned about your ultimate accuracy potential weight everything, including brass, and make lots with the most consistency.
while interesting I question if any of these bullets are going to be shot out of a gun by some one who would be able to shoot well enough to see the difference.
Of course they do. Its impossible to get perfectly "pure" or "consistent" pours or lots of any metal and these are the cheapest bullets available short of cast lead. Which ironically have an excellent reputation among experienced shooters for both high accuracy and precision and are literally "dirt cheap" if you're willing to go sift range berm/bank material for old bullets to melt/clean/flux into "brand-new" lead to pour into new bullets. I've got a couple posts here somewhere and one of them has my results from weighting 8 of two different bullet sizes and types I cast. I had .401" (.40 S&W and 10mm) 175-grain "microgroove" bullets from a Lee 6-cavity aluminum mold that were within .6 grain of each other and .452" (.45-caliber for everyting .45) 230-grain round-nose bullets (basically lead replacements for 230-grain FMJ "hardball") from a Lee 6-cavity aluminum mold that were within 1.1 grains of each other. Obviously in both cases the total "variance" is way under 1% of the "average weight". You won't get powder charges that consistent in a pistol cartridge without using a beam scale and removing or adding individual grains of powder. I don't understand why so many younger and/or newer shooters ignore or don't bother to learn gun, ammunition, competition etc HISTORY. Decades and decades ago when handgun competitions really started to take off do you think it was even possible to compare two brands of commercial copper-plated lead bullets? Not so much. Could you buy more than a few jacketed bullets in any given caliber (caliber not CARTRIDGE) and even then only in a handful of "major" calibers? No way in hell. How did shooters get the bullets that worked best and were affordable enough to shoot in large volumes? They casted their own. Some of the "big boys" in competitino handgun shooting got as good as they are shooting 50,000 rounds or more PER YEAR just in PRACTICE. And that's out of pocket until you get good enough to start getting "free" components, ammo, etc. Toss in the primers and powder necessary to shoot 50,000 rounds a year and the time not spent working to practice that much and the traveling to competitions and club dues and entry fees and room and board and its pretty easy to see why there were very few "factory" bullet choices period for handguns and even those were out of reach for the overwhelming majoriity of shooters. Its a damned expensive hobby with no economies of scale unless you make your own bullets. I bought and loaded lots of jacketed and plated bullets early in my relatively recently begun HANDGUN SHOOTING "career" (been shooting long guns 35+ years hunting, varmint shooting, trap shooting and just dinking and plinking in general but only got into handguns 5 years ago or so) and got into reloading almost immediately after getting my first pistol. And I've bought and loaded and very much liked lots of Berry's Bullets. I've never used Extreme but I've loaded some Montana Gold bullets and they seem decent. But what I haven't done once since getting into casting a couple of years ago is buy any more factory pistol bullets. Instead I've spent a fraction of the amount of money I would have spent BUYING the many thousands of bullets I've cast on the relatively cheap and easy to operate casting equipment I've purchased and find myself increasingly amazed at how few "volume shooters" who already reload and probably scavenge brass whenever possible etc even look into or make a very small investment needed to start casting bullets. If you want, you can literally start casting bullets for well under $100 and see how it works for you. If itdoesn't, you can sell or trade away the equipment pretty easily. Its been so long since I bought any factory bullets I can't even rember much about the prices, so how many plated bullets will $100 buy these days?
Thanks so much for making this video. While I agree with the references to acceptable tolerance for + or - 100gr bullets, it's still nice to see which of these 2 products are more consistent and accurate. It's an easy win for Berry's.. thanks again!
I had some copper plated bullets from extreme that I bought for reloading 45 Colt. I'm not putting down the product but I noticed up to a whopping 1.5 grains difference in bullets out of the same box .
I have mainly used Xtreme for years......Great idea for a test...this is the kind of tests that I like!! Sorry, I realized last night during the Hangout, that I had not subbed you.......I thought I had.........
So which bullets shoot better ??? I Love Berry's compared to CamPro (I'm in Canada). Even when I think I pulled a shot with the Berry's, they still go into the same hole. This is with 9mm Luger 147 gr
I have been shooting acme bullets. Very accurate especially for the cost. If your in the mood to try a coated bullet use IY6C for 10 percent code. Tell me if you notice a difference or better.
@@IY6C Thanks mate... Living in Canada doesn't give me the choice as you get. however I have tried X-Metal bullets which have the same coating as the ACME. They were making a little smoke, so I stopped using them. I wonder if the powder charge I used was too little or too much and it caused smoke. I was using around 3.4 gr of Titegroup with the X-metal 147 gr bullets.
1.8 gr or 178.2 to 181.8 is only +/- 1%. If you want better than 1% accuracy, you are going to have to go away from bulk bullets to something like a Hornady Atip.
If one competes, they have to factor in not only the fact bullets weight differs but also powder temp sensitivity to avoid shooting a match just for fan and no score... chrono and air density/pressure may play a role. Just load at least 5 and ideally 10 FPS above making PF.
How is the accuracy on the Berrys plated bullets? Have you ever recovered any of the Berrys plated bullets, after shooting them and does only the Copper Plating Show on the Projectile or can you see the lead showing on the lands of the Projectile? Are Diameters of these Projectiles consistent and the proper diameter for each caliber? I would really appreciate your input on my questions if you can answer them. I’m not being sarcastic in any way. Before I invest any money purchasing 1,000 Bulk Bullets in 9 mm Luger and .40 caliber Smith & Wesson in different grain weights and Bullet Profiles. I want to get as much information as I can before purchasing any Berrys Plated Bullets. Lead wheel weights are getting harder and harder to find and I’m getting tired of and it’s getting old, casting my own Projectiles,Powder Coating them and running each one through a sizing die.
M dlanor if you are used to shooting lead with powder coating look at acme Bullet’s great price work great and cheaper then these. If you want jacketed Bullet they both worked great. Some issue they say if you shoot a very fast load. Meaning FPS the jacket can come off. Use acme price code IY6C for 10% off hope this helps.
Isyour6covered® Thank you for the info. I use minimum loads, just enough to make my Semi Automatic Handguns Cycle,as these reloads are primarily fired by my Grandchildren.
I buy whatever is cheapest and berries has been the winner for a long time. Even those sold as blemished run good. The only hiccup is my new 147 gr plated round nose in 9mm with imr 4756 aren't functioning properly. Just discovered this last week haven't troubleshoot it yet but that's all
Manufacturing being what it is you might be surprised to see what factory ammo looks like. Years ago we measured lengths of loaded shells and was amazed at the variations. We reset the e bullets all to the same length and saw the groups shrink drastically on the factory rounds. It had also been thought that ammo that has set for a long time would benefit from minimal resetting. That is just breaking the bullets loose. But hey, youre talking about handgun ammo here, not bench rest shooting.
@@IY6C in this day & age of high pressure ammo manufacturing I'd NEVER adjust seating depth on ANY factory cartridge. On a 9mm, that's like Maverick pushing an F-18 airframe to 10.0 G's...dangerous.
Weight consistency is good and all, but most scales will vary .02 and a .01-even 2,0 you won’t notice. The major thing that matter is playing quality. If you cut in half a xtreme plated and Barry’s plated billet you’ll see Barry’s playing is about 4 Times thicker than xtreme. Xtreme uses a super thin copper plating that can deform easily, that’s why xtreme is cheaper in most cases. I buy both brands, but have experienced strange things with xtreme. Keyholing
Probably misleading conclusions being offered here, yet based on true data. The rub is, that both bullet and primer consistency is best on low wear, freshly 'blueprinted' manufacturing equipment yielding superior consistency of product. Manufacturing equipment approaching re-build/re-calibration time will be producing rather poor product consistency. Berry's 40's were probably produced rather recently after the 40 cal production equipment re-build, while their 9mm's here were produced on 9mm production equipment closely approaching a re-build time. Same logic applies for the Extremes, and standard verses match grade primers. match grade primers are just exceptional standard primers usually produced after a re-build/re-calibration of primer production equipment. In all general cases, tighter tolerances in the equipment components yield tighter tolerances (consistency) in any product produced.
I have had bullets way off the scale in 124gr 9mm and did not notice the slightest difference in accuracy. Seems to me accuracy is a result of powder selection seating depth and crimp.What im saying is I could take all the bullets you have weighed there and still group 1.5" at 25 yards with my FN 509 or my glock 17.
I use both brands for my fuckin around ammo lol but i mainly get berrys because thats what cabelas always has in stock in store, but when i order online i get xtreme
Isyour6covered® lately i been reloading alot of 10mm since i recently got a glock 40 but i still enjoy loading and casting for 45 acp, i got 4 45 acp guns and 1 9 and 10mm lol
Isyour6covered® i thought about reloding 40 but i can do some light 10mm loads and it will be pretty much the same, hell the FBI load is pretty much a 40 lol i got about 600 cases of 40 but i dont think ill ever use them
Awesome vid. When we spend as much time perfecting cases loads and primers it good to know we are also getting consistent bullet weights as well. If the weights are all over then nothing else you do to improve loadings really matters.
If you're paying for the cheapest "jacketed" bullets available, which is what you're paying for and getting with plated bullets, and you're also expecting premium bullet consistency, you're the one that's at opposite ends of the scale at the same time. And even though your little "scale" makes the "spreads" look much more dramatic, you have 1.3 grains of difference between the bottom and top end of your first scale. That's .72% of your target weight and I'd be very surprised if the guaranteed "accuracy" of your scale is +/- .36%. I'm sure there are specifications somewhere that will tell you. Regardless, to say you're trying to have your cake and eat it too buying the cheapest "jacketed" bulllets available while expecting consistency that even at this level is probably significantly better than other variables in your reloads like powder charges. After all, just a .1-grain difference on a 6-grain charge is 1.6% of the total. More than double your bullet weight variance from best to worst. Are you stressing over .1 grain twice as much as you are about less than half as much variance in bullet weights? I doubt it. And if you really want accuracy and consistency and low cost you could do what competition handgun shooters have done for decades and decades. Cast your own bullets. Semi-wadcutter cast bullets have had an excellent reputation for accuracy and precision for a LONG TIME. I cast some 200-grain SWCs in .45 for a "varmint round" project a few years back as part of an ongoing and long-term "project" to shoot a prairie dog with every one of the 25 or so guns I own, figuring to use them as my varmint bullets knowing I was going to do a lot of missing shooting at prairie dogs with a 1911. I can't recall if I trickled my powder charges or not, but I do know that kind of on a whim I decided to "test" them using my Les Baer Premier II Tactical with the optional 1.5" @ 50 yds guarantee. I got really "high-tech" and "scientific" benchresting over the hood of my pickup out in a gravel pit that was is one of the local "ranges" where I grew up. And I fired a 3-round groups at a solid 50 yards and probably a yard or two extra. One the downside I didn't do a good job of managing my muzzle blast and it never occured to me having back in front of the muzzle was really stupid, so one of my bags took it in the shorts with .45 ACP muzzle blast iimpacting nylon bean bag shell. But on the bright side I verfied the accuracy of my bullets and pistol when my 3 rounds went into a triangular group exactly 1.5" from center to center of the two farthest apart holes. Seriously, if you want to shoot accurately and precisly and inexpensively, cast your own or buy cast semi-wadcutters. I've loaded a lot of Berry's bullets and I've still got a lot of them and they're great bullets, but I haven't bought any since I started casting. You're literally paying significantly more to give up accuracy and precision and the ability to do your own QC at your bench rather than wonder about it and test for it when its too late to do anything about it anyway.
I've never had to buy lead bullets. When my father passed, he left me all his lead and casting equipment. I have around 3000 lbs of lead ingots already mixed and ready to rock..
I use xtreme Bullets in 9 mm and 380 and in 45 and not a problem with any of them copper plate some time I have to look for a recipe for them but there not bad
Vanilla Gorilla oh I see what your question is. I only load copper jacketed. If I shoot lead I would change barrel to after market for sure. Load what the specs say for lead.
This isn't the test i was looking for. I reload simply for affordability, nothing more. I can shoot more on less $ I'm going with the cheaper ammo even if it is "less accurate" by a fraction of a moa
in reality if ya weighed every bullet in a box you'll get the same results over a larger sample from both brands though this is why comp. shooters and snipers load all ammo and weigh every bullet for accurate shooting
There is literally nothing accomplished by weighing every bullet when there's nothing you can do to "fix" light or heavy bullets that doesn't do more harm than good. And I know this is going to blow your mind but bullet weight and tiny variations in them have no effect on "accuracy" and "precision" because each slightly different bullet is going into a different cartridge to be fired at a different time with a slightly different powder charge and at a slightly different set of amospheric conditions, etc. There are only so many "variables" that can be "controlled" in ammunition and shooting. The huge number of variables that can't even be detected by the shooter much less compensated for and all the ones a shooter is powerless to do anything about are what cause "groups" larger than one hole. If there was as much "precision" in precision and long-range shooting as you think there is, the term "center mass" wouldn't exist.
A little update to my longwinded commment about buying cheap bullets, expecting premium quality and buying bullets vs. casting if you want cheap and accurate: On a whim I grabbed a few .401 Lee "micro-groove" 175-grain SWCs I cast a while back and tossed them on my Hornady GS-1500 and did the same with a few .452 230-grain round-nose bullets (think FMJ/hardball with no jacket). I'm not a master caster, I scavenge and clean and cast "range lead" by sifting bank and berm gravel through a screen at an old "range" thats really a small gravel pit/dump but thats been the local shooting spot for decades and decades. I find everything from lead .22LR bullets to .38 full wadcutters (perfectly cylindrical bullets with a flat face and amazing accuracy from revolvers) to an occasional shotgun slug to jacketd pistol bullets by the hundreds of pounds. Wash the dirt off, allow to dry, melt down in a pan, flux with candle wax, skim off the "dross" which is literally everything that's not lead since everything floats on lead (and even pristine FMJ bullets end up hollow when the lead sweats through the copper jacket - cool stuff) and pour it into ignots that end up in my 10-pound bottom pour pot. I've got ingots of who knows what lead I bought on ebay before I started scavenging my own, lead from other sources I've scrapped, etc and I end up with mostly "pure" and "dead soft" lead that shouldn't have much antimony, tin etc in it and judging by how soft my bullets (antimony hardens lead) are and how my molds can be difficult to fill at times (tin makes slicker allow that fills mold cavities better) and especially when not good and hot, I think my lead is pretty pure generally pretty pure but I just grab some ingots out of my bucket and toss them in the pot and what comes out is what I shoot. The beauty of casting is that the mistakes and defects go right back into the pot and you can literally weigh every bullet as it comes from the mold and pass/fail at the point of production. I tossed those bullets from my list because if I were casting for absolute accuracy or choosing bullets by weight for "Match Grade" ammo they'd obviously get tossed anyway. These bullets have also been lubricated with Liquid Alox, which is kind of an almost cosmoline type substance that' puts kind of a waxy coating over bullets that I just put in a plastic container, squirt in some Alox and stir and "tumble" around until they're all coated and I add a little more Alox as required. It takes time to dry and its impossible to get perfectly consistent coatings and I don't know if it could affect weights by .01 grain or .1 grain if its a little thicker or thinner. I think people will agree that given my "spreads" aren't too shabby given my relative "rookie" status as a caster, general "I'll make bullets out of anything and literally junk I find on the ground" approach to material "procurement" and my Lee aluminum molds being made probably more for affordability and ease of use and volume casting rather than perfect bullets.. They do throw pretty consistently sized bullets and I use corresponding Lee sizer dies that don't remove lead from the bullets but rather "squeeze down" the oversized bullets so weight should be retained. Maybe 1 or 2 bullets in ten that I size actually seem to be sized at all based on the press handle force needed to push them through the die. I do admit to doing other "culling" of my bullets because I've got a container of bullets from a few different casting sessions using different lead supplies and there are very obvious multiple-grain variations separating the whole pile into three obviously different "melts". So I picked the "middle" melt and bullets obviously from it. The consistency is all in the lead supply.And there are lots of ways to get or create "perfect" lead and lead alloys for a given purpose. I don't put much faith in the "a 180-grain mold has to produce 180-grain bullets view some purists and perfectionists have. You'll rarely find ANY bullets all perfectly "spot on" the "listed" weight. As long as the bullets are as consistent and "even" as possible, whether they're a grain or two "light or "heavy" compared to the "specification" on the mold makes no difference. If you want a large supply of consistent and even bullets, buy or melt a large quantity of alloy, melt and cast it all into bullets at the same time, check the weights as you cast and sort them and grade them however you please. So, here are my backwoods, rookie f$ckwad homemade bullets weighed for consistency: .401" 175-grain SWC - 178.3 - 178.1 - 177.5 - 177.8 - 177.6 - 177.8 - 178.3 - 178.1 .452" 230-grain RN - 227.7 - 228.8 - 228.8 - 228.3 - 227.9 - 228.0 - 227.5 - 227.8 Pretty hard to beat the cheapest bullets you can find for both cost and consistency. I see .6 grain max difference in the .401s and 1.1 grains total difference in the .452s. I do realize that some guns aren't supposed to have lead bullets fired through them, but that's a really good indication to me that said gun isn't worth shoting good consistent bullets through anyway if acuracy and precision are the goal. So-called"octagonal rifling" is CHEAP and so are teh guns that use it, no matter the price tag. You pay a lot for a cheap gun and then can't save money shooting cheap bullets through it or get maximum accuracy out of it shooting what often are one and the same with the cheap bullets. Just one of many Glock "paradoxes" I'm apparently to gun-stupid to understand. Probably explains why I don't own expensive cheap guns I can't shoot cheap bullets through without replacing the cheap expensive factory barrel with an expensive cheap barrel that's cheap bcause it's not "Glock" and expensive because....it's not Glock.
Clearly you should just stick to COD. You're not sharp enough to "play" with real guns if you respond to my information with "WTF". You're not even smart enough to use a question mark behind it, dumbass. WTF is that buying jacketed/plated commercial bullets to "save money" shooting in quantity is fucking stupid because casting bullets produces much "cheaper" and more "consistent" bullets. Do you need somebody to draw you a picture?
+Isyour6covered® ya I run it hot 27.5grn of varget you may get better accurate rounds going less I only run hot hand loads maxed out. I find the faster the rounds the better down range so long as you have proper bullets. less moving around going faster in high winds as I have seen on a crotch rocket same thing in bullets being shot out of a gun. all about speed offsetting the wind and you plane out smooth and sleek.
Back in the day. Grand pops would make me do this and fine all the same for a cal. SO like if we where loading for a 308. The load he was looking for called for 185.0 gn. Then he best have all of them to be 185.0. Are ammo would cost for 20 rounds some times as much as $2.50 a pop. Tho's where the guys who where shooting some nutty stuff and where willing to pay for a top of the line full on custom load for there gun. So Rickyou would call and say. I need 20 rounds for my 308 for deer hunting. We would go in and find the info for your load. So we would have all the stuff the power primmers trem the brand of primmers brass for that load. It would go on and on. But you would know that this ammo was 100% the best we could made for your gun. Some guys would call 2 times a year some maybe 1 in a few years. One thing that stands out they would all say. Your ammo is not cheap but well worth knowing that it's the best I can get. THen they would say a lot I did know the ammo did it's best and there was no blaming it on the ammo lol.
yankey4 This is an extremely long comment, but it brings back wonderful life long memories of the times I spent with my Dad his Brothers, their Dad”my Grandfather” and 3 of my Cousins. My Dad and his Brothers Loaded and Reloaded all their Ammunition. Of course not.22 Rimfire Ammunition.They all used 30.06 Chambered Remington Bolt Action Rifles for White Tail Deer.These Rifles Remington Model 700s. The ones with the black” I’m not sure but I think it’s Ebony Wood”on the end of the Forward Grip. I don’t remember what Brand of Scopes they used. I do remember one of my Uncles telling me that the Scope on his Rifle cost more than the Rifle. My Grandfather used a Model 94 Winchester 30.30 with no Scope and would generally harvest a Deer every season.I used my Dads Remington Model 700 with no Black piece on the end of the Forward Grip,Chambered in. 243 Winchester with a scope that I don’t remember what make it was.Three of my Cousins also hunted with our family. One used a Marlin Lever Action Chambered in 30.30 with a scope that was his dads.Another Cousin used a Bolt Action Winchester Model I’m pretty sure it was a Model 70 Chambered in .270 Winchester with a Scope that was his Dads. The final Cousin used a Winchester Lever Action I’m not sure of what Model it was. I do remember it was Chambered in 44.40 with no scope and was our Grandfathers. All the Reloaded Ammunition my Grandfather,Cousins and I used were not custom loads. My Dad and his Brothers were extremely particular as to the Grain weight, Length and the Diameter of the Projectiles using a micrometer to measure the Diameter and length and for this time period a high quality balance beam Scale to weigh the Projectiles,also they were particular as too what Primers and Gun Powder was being used for their Hunting Custom Ammunition. They used only one Brand and lot number of New Remington Brass Cases that they Custom Loaded for Deer Hunting. These men didn’t ever over charge their Ammunition with more gun powder that exceeded the maximum charge. I remember my Dad Telling me that more gun powder doesn’t make a round any more accurate than using less gun powder and that there is a sweet spot for the Gun Powder charge and it differed from his 30.06 Chambered Rifle and his Brothers,even though they were the same model Rifles.If you reload your Ammunition of course you know that the amount of Grains of Gun Powder is specific to the Brand of Gun Powder you’re using and there is always a minimum and maximum grains of Gun Powder to use in the specific application of your Caliber,Brand of Gun Powder, Grain weight and the specifics of the Projectile being used and you should always start with the minimum Gun Powder charge and work your way up 0.1 Grain at at time until you’re satisfied with the results.I also remember my Dad and his Brothers using this Aluminum rod tool that my Dad made, that they used stick down through the muzzle into the Bore, then seat an empty trimmed to length,deburred and chamfored Brass Case that was modified on a Lathe by my Dad by drilling out the Primer pocket and threading the hole. When using this Brass case and fully Chambering it. They would use another tool my Dad made that would screw into the base of the Brass Case that was hollow and threaded it into where the primer would be pressed in and a thin piece of round stock that they would use to push the Projectile in towards the Seated Brass Case and the Aluminum rod that was through the bore to push the Projectile back towards the full seated brass case,from the Muzzle too determine the distance between the Ogive of the Projectile and the Lands and Grooves in their Rifles Barrels Bore. Then determine the distance they wanted between the Ogive of the Projectile and the Lands and Grooves in the Barrels Bore. This would determine how far the Projectiles were pressed and seated into the Primed and Gun Powder Charged Brass Cases. My Dad and his Brothers would do this to each individual Rifle and would of course keep the newly Custom Loaded Ammunition separate for each Rifle.My dad told me that doing this greatly increased the accuracy of their rifles. It took many weeks of trail and error until my Dad and his Brothers figured out the exact formula of their Custom Loaded Ammunition for each of their Rifle for the ultimate accuracy.As a matter of fact their custom loaded Ammunition wasn’t ever about maximum Powder Charges. It was for accuracy. The small difference in the amount of feet per second the Projectile is moving by adding more Gun Powder doesn’t improve accuracy at all. It can actually decrease your Rifles accuracy.I never understood why they never did any Competition Bench Shooting as my Dad and each one of Brothers were Excellent Shooters. The first time I went Deer Hunting. My dad was with me. About an hour after sunrise here comes a decent Buck. When I raised the rifle and laid it on a rail that was part of this large tree stand we were in.My Dad puts his hand on the rifle so I cannot shoot this Buck. This Buck was well over 100 yards. I quietly ask my Dad what am I doing wrong. He quietly says that using a rest is only for sighting in the rifle, and that I will shoot this rifle the way I was taught by him. By holding it and not using a rest. Well I did what he told me and was so surprised when the Buck I shot at dropped right where I shot at him. When my Dad trusted me and knew that I was absolutely responsible in Gun Safety and the handling of any Firearm. He allowed me to handle and then shoot his prized Rifle. I was allowed at the Range my Dad and his Brothers made on my Grand Aunts Farm to shoot his Rifle using a bench rest to shoot the 30.06. Shooting the Reloads at 100 yards. In quite a few series of 5 shots. I got groups of no more than 3/4 of an inch. After going through the process of cleaning and letting the rifle acclimate to the outside temperature and shooting my Dads and his Brothers custom loads. At 100 yards shooting a 3 series of five rounds. My grouping was dead center each of the Bullseyes and less than 1/8 of an inch using a bench rest. I can say with absolute truth,that their Ammunition was absolutely more accurate than any Factory Run Ammunition. At 300 yards my Dad and his Brothers 5 shot groups using their Custom Loaded Ammunition. They would get groups of less than 1/4 on an inch. At 300 yards using a bench rest. In my early years of bench rest shooting I couldn’t get groups of 5 rounds to less than 1 inch. After quite a few years of bench rest shooting I could never get groups of 5 rounds less than 1/2 of an inch. Even though their Rifles were not EVER banged around before during and after the Deer Hunting Season.My Dad and his Brothers always would make sure their Rifles were sited in. They hunted with a bunch of their friends on my Grand Aunts 1,000 acre farm and forest. She had around 300 acres in crops the rest was Forest.None of these friends would ever touch my Dad or his Brothers Rifles. When I was finally old enough to go hunting with my Dad his Brothers their Friends and my Dads and his Brothers Father”my Grandfather” and 3 of my Cousins. My Grandfather,Cousins and I knew better than to touch or hold my Dads or his Brothers Rifles without first asking and in the early years of hunting with them just my Cousins and I were told if we wanted to keep our fingers too NEVER touch or pick up their rifles. A few weeks before the opening of each Deer season my dad his Brothers and their Dad would go too their own range on my Grand Aunts Farm” my Grandfathers Sister”and test the accuracy of their New Loaded Ammunition in their Rifles and use up the Newly Reloaded Ammunition and the previous years Custom Ammunition.They would shoot their Rifles using reloads that weren’t up to their Par for Deer Hunting and then the previous years Custom Ammunition,before they would shoot some of their Newly Loaded Custom Ammunition.They would Completely clean their Rifles then after the Rifles completely acclimated to the outside temperature they would shoot at least 5 rounds of their Custom Ammunition. Waiting a few minutes between shooting each round.They would never use last seasons Ammunition for the next seasons Deer Hunting. My Grandfather would use my Dads and his Brothers 30.30 Winchester reloads that they Reloaded for him.These weren’t Custom Ammunition. They did what they were intended though. My Grandfather rarely didn’t harvest a Deer each season.The only Ammunition that they didn’t reload was the 44.40 Winchester Rounds. This Ammunition was purchased at Retail Store and it did what it was intended to do. Although my Cousin that used the Winchester Lever Action Chambered in 44.40 never harvested a Deer, but always did great at the Range. I don’t ever remember them ever having to adjust the Windage or Elevation Adjustments on their Scopes when they were at my Grand Aunts farm. In Pennsylvania where most of my family lived,it was a Tradition for White Tail Deer Hunting and the Middle and High Schools in our area of Pennsylvania would be Closed for the First Day of Deer Hunting. Personally looking back at what my Dad and His Brothers did was way overboard but their passion for Deer Hunting made all they did worth it for themselves and they all harvested a White Tail Deer each season. Most of their friends rarely harvested a Deer. Generally because they missed when shooting at a Deer. For myself using factory Ammunition or my Reloads that I can get groups of 1” or less at 100 yards is plenty satisfactory.
I am sure they are within standards but maybe the standard is not good enough. The video was to show companies standards. I think on pistol rounds it not noticeable, Rifle it means a lot. If you had a chance to watch my other videos you would see i shoot a lot mostly 3 to 4 days a week. Have a great day.
They're econom-priced bullets for high-volume practice, plinking and "training". What the fuck do you expect? Match bullets? You're talking even a TWO grains difference is less than ONE PERCENT variation from bullet to bullet. Show me handloads with super-expensive, high-quality match bullets and perfect matched powder charges that come within one percent of each other on a chronograph shot after shot.
You test was consistent on both brands l have reloaded both Xtreme and Barry’s for years and found the same results on bullet weights that your test concluded. However Xtreme bullets are much cheaper to shoot and shoot just as well as the Barrys , plus the Xtreme bullets have a crimp groove in many of there pistol bullets. For my money I pick the Xtreme bullets ever time and most of the time Xtreme has a 10 percent off sale with free shipping.
Thanks for running through the exercise.
We need to keep in mind the SAAMI standards show that bullets weighing less than 100gr have a weight tolerance of ±2.0% and those 100gr and heavier have a weight tolerance of ±1.5%. The 124gr can vary by ±1.86gr and the 180gr can vary by ±2.7gr.
Well said Stanley thanks for the info
Thanks for the weight test!! Just placed my first order of Berry's 9mm 124gr Hybrid HP's. Been loading the Extreme 115gr FMJ RN and am very happy with them at the range, using 5.5gr of Win 572. Cut my group size nearly in half @ 7yds, compared to average mfg ammo (nothing expensive or boutique). The Hybrid HP's are designed for self-defense situations, so we'll see how they perform (at the range, that is).
This is a great intro to Statistical Analysts and Standard of Deviation. The Bell Curve is a great example of good (consistent) manufacturing process
Ive shot both, and I'm a pretty decent shooter (9 years Marine Corp Marksmanship Coach) and i couldn't tell the difference. I have weighed random batches I found the Berry's and the Xteme bullets to be pretty close in their claimed weights (+/- .3gr). Honestly I don't care about the actual weight spreed so much as the consistency in the weights. Just like with long range rifle bullets. A 165gr will shoot just as good as a 170gr, but if you shoot them back to back you will see a difference. So if you're concerned about your ultimate accuracy potential weight everything, including brass, and make lots with the most consistency.
while interesting I question if any of these bullets are going to be shot out of a gun by some one who would be able to shoot well enough to see the difference.
Playing games with bullets looks like fun, maybe not as much as loading and shooting them. Ha!
I've always had great results with Xtreme. Im pretty loyal once i find something that is affordable and works great.
interesting. I wonder if they change from lot to lot. you should do this test again on your next order
That's what I was thinking. I might weigh some of mine.
Of course they do. Its impossible to get perfectly "pure" or "consistent" pours or lots of any metal and these are the cheapest bullets available short of cast lead. Which ironically have an excellent reputation among experienced shooters for both high accuracy and precision and are literally "dirt cheap" if you're willing to go sift range berm/bank material for old bullets to melt/clean/flux into "brand-new" lead to pour into new bullets. I've got a couple posts here somewhere and one of them has my results from weighting 8 of two different bullet sizes and types I cast. I had .401" (.40 S&W and 10mm) 175-grain "microgroove" bullets from a Lee 6-cavity aluminum mold that were within .6 grain of each other and .452" (.45-caliber for everyting .45) 230-grain round-nose bullets (basically lead replacements for 230-grain FMJ "hardball") from a Lee 6-cavity aluminum mold that were within 1.1 grains of each other. Obviously in both cases the total "variance" is way under 1% of the "average weight". You won't get powder charges that consistent in a pistol cartridge without using a beam scale and removing or adding individual grains of powder.
I don't understand why so many younger and/or newer shooters ignore or don't bother to learn gun, ammunition, competition etc HISTORY. Decades and decades ago when handgun competitions really started to take off do you think it was even possible to compare two brands of commercial copper-plated lead bullets? Not so much. Could you buy more than a few jacketed bullets in any given caliber (caliber not CARTRIDGE) and even then only in a handful of "major" calibers? No way in hell. How did shooters get the bullets that worked best and were affordable enough to shoot in large volumes? They casted their own. Some of the "big boys" in competitino handgun shooting got as good as they are shooting 50,000 rounds or more PER YEAR just in PRACTICE. And that's out of pocket until you get good enough to start getting "free" components, ammo, etc.
Toss in the primers and powder necessary to shoot 50,000 rounds a year and the time not spent working to practice that much and the traveling to competitions and club dues and entry fees and room and board and its pretty easy to see why there were very few "factory" bullet choices period for handguns and even those were out of reach for the overwhelming majoriity of shooters. Its a damned expensive hobby with no economies of scale unless you make your own bullets.
I bought and loaded lots of jacketed and plated bullets early in my relatively recently begun HANDGUN SHOOTING "career" (been shooting long guns 35+ years hunting, varmint shooting, trap shooting and just dinking and plinking in general but only got into handguns 5 years ago or so) and got into reloading almost immediately after getting my first pistol. And I've bought and loaded and very much liked lots of Berry's Bullets. I've never used Extreme but I've loaded some Montana Gold bullets and they seem decent.
But what I haven't done once since getting into casting a couple of years ago is buy any more factory pistol bullets. Instead I've spent a fraction of the amount of money I would have spent BUYING the many thousands of bullets I've cast on the relatively cheap and easy to operate casting equipment I've purchased and find myself increasingly amazed at how few "volume shooters" who already reload and probably scavenge brass whenever possible etc even look into or make a very small investment needed to start casting bullets. If you want, you can literally start casting bullets for well under $100 and see how it works for you. If itdoesn't, you can sell or trade away the equipment pretty easily.
Its been so long since I bought any factory bullets I can't even rember much about the prices, so how many plated bullets will $100 buy these days?
Thanks so much for making this video. While I agree with the references to acceptable tolerance for + or - 100gr bullets, it's still nice to see which of these 2 products are more consistent and accurate. It's an easy win for Berry's.. thanks again!
Thanks a lot now I’m heading to my reloading room to go weigh my bullets.
Just got a box of Berry's HBRN 185g. Hope to get them loaded this week. Great vid and info.
I had some copper plated bullets from extreme that I bought for reloading 45 Colt. I'm not putting down the product but I noticed up to a whopping 1.5 grains difference in bullets out of the same box .
Russell Sandidge damn that’s a lot. I am starting to use acme and RMR for bullets
I have mainly used Xtreme for years......Great idea for a test...this is the kind of tests that I like!! Sorry, I realized last night during the Hangout, that I had not subbed you.......I thought I had.........
Thanks brother means a lot. back at ya
So which bullets shoot better ???
I Love Berry's compared to CamPro (I'm in Canada). Even when I think I pulled a shot with the Berry's, they still go into the same hole. This is with 9mm Luger 147 gr
I have been shooting acme bullets. Very accurate especially for the cost. If your in the mood to try a coated bullet use IY6C for 10 percent code. Tell me if you notice a difference or better.
@@IY6C Thanks mate... Living in Canada doesn't give me the choice as you get. however I have tried X-Metal bullets which have the same coating as the ACME. They were making a little smoke, so I stopped using them. I wonder if the powder charge I used was too little or too much and it caused smoke. I was using around 3.4 gr of Titegroup with the X-metal 147 gr bullets.
ZeroBoostBuick no they do smoke more then jacketed but are very accurate. Sounds like you were right
Goodness gracious this man's got 40 mm someone contact the ATF. I need to speak to his manager immediately hahahaha
1.8 gr or 178.2 to 181.8 is only +/- 1%.
If you want better than 1% accuracy, you are going to have to go away from bulk bullets to something like a Hornady Atip.
You forgot to calibrate the scale with the 50 gram weight.
Yes. Very important.
Have you tried Acme Bullet Co yet?
Yes sir I like acme. Coupon code is IY6C for ten percent
@@IY6C Thank you sir!
45 ACP for the tie breaker?
If one competes, they have to factor in not only the fact bullets weight differs but also powder temp sensitivity to avoid shooting a match just for fan and no score... chrono and air density/pressure may play a role.
Just load at least 5 and ideally 10 FPS above making PF.
Great point Eugene thanks
How is the accuracy on the Berrys plated bullets? Have you ever recovered any of the Berrys plated bullets, after shooting them and does only the Copper Plating Show on the Projectile or can you see the lead showing on the lands of the Projectile? Are Diameters of these Projectiles consistent and the proper diameter for each caliber?
I would really appreciate your input on my questions if you can answer them. I’m not being sarcastic in any way. Before I invest any money purchasing 1,000 Bulk Bullets in 9 mm Luger and .40 caliber Smith & Wesson in different grain weights and Bullet Profiles. I want to get as much information as I can before purchasing any Berrys Plated Bullets. Lead wheel weights are getting harder and harder to find and I’m getting tired of and it’s getting old, casting my own Projectiles,Powder Coating them and running each one through a sizing die.
M dlanor if you are used to shooting lead with powder coating look at acme Bullet’s great price work great and cheaper then these. If you want jacketed Bullet they both worked great. Some issue they say if you shoot a very fast load. Meaning FPS the jacket can come off. Use acme price code IY6C for 10% off hope this helps.
Isyour6covered®
Thank you for the info. I use minimum loads, just enough to make my Semi Automatic Handguns Cycle,as these reloads are primarily fired by my Grandchildren.
I buy whatever is cheapest and berries has been the winner for a long time. Even those sold as blemished run good. The only hiccup is my new 147 gr plated round nose in 9mm with imr 4756 aren't functioning properly. Just discovered this last week haven't troubleshoot it yet but that's all
Manufacturing being what it is you might be surprised to see what factory ammo looks like. Years ago we measured lengths of loaded shells and was amazed at the variations. We reset the e bullets all to the same length and saw the groups shrink drastically on the factory rounds. It had also been thought that ammo that has set for a long time would benefit from minimal resetting. That is just breaking the bullets loose. But hey, youre talking about handgun ammo here, not bench rest shooting.
therealdiehl great info thanks for comments
@@IY6C in this day & age of high pressure ammo manufacturing I'd NEVER adjust seating depth on ANY factory cartridge. On a 9mm, that's like Maverick pushing an F-18 airframe to 10.0 G's...dangerous.
Weight consistency is good and all, but most scales will vary .02 and a .01-even 2,0 you won’t notice.
The major thing that matter is playing quality. If you cut in half a xtreme plated and Barry’s plated billet you’ll see Barry’s playing is about 4 Times thicker than xtreme. Xtreme uses a super thin copper plating that can deform easily, that’s why xtreme is cheaper in most cases. I buy both brands, but have experienced strange things with xtreme. Keyholing
good problem to have.
40mm?
I have used Xtreme bullets in the past, seem good to me but I just load them up never have weighed them
X-treme is a great bullet,
Probably misleading conclusions being offered here, yet based on true data. The rub is, that both bullet and primer consistency is best on low wear, freshly 'blueprinted' manufacturing equipment yielding superior consistency of product. Manufacturing equipment approaching re-build/re-calibration time will be producing rather poor product consistency. Berry's 40's were probably produced rather recently after the 40 cal production equipment re-build, while their 9mm's here were produced on 9mm production equipment closely approaching a re-build time. Same logic applies for the Extremes, and standard verses match grade primers. match grade primers are just exceptional standard primers usually produced after a re-build/re-calibration of primer production equipment. In all general cases, tighter tolerances in the equipment components yield tighter tolerances (consistency) in any product produced.
I have had bullets way off the scale in 124gr 9mm and did not notice the slightest difference in accuracy. Seems to me accuracy is a result of powder selection seating depth and crimp.What im saying is I could take all the bullets you have weighed there and still group 1.5" at 25 yards with my FN 509 or my glock 17.
I use both brands for my fuckin around ammo lol but i mainly get berrys because thats what cabelas always has in stock in store, but when i order online i get xtreme
+Josue Guzman what caliber you prefer?
Isyour6covered® lately i been reloading alot of 10mm since i recently got a glock 40 but i still enjoy loading and casting for 45 acp, i got 4 45 acp guns and 1 9 and 10mm lol
Josue Guzman 40 is my favorite
Isyour6covered® i thought about reloding 40 but i can do some light 10mm loads and it will be pretty much the same, hell the FBI load is pretty much a 40 lol i got about 600 cases of 40 but i dont think ill ever use them
Awesome vid. When we spend as much time perfecting cases loads and primers it good to know we are also getting consistent bullet weights as well. If the weights are all over then nothing else you do to improve loadings really matters.
Very true and great comments. Thanks 4 watching
My 9mm CPHB Xtreme are all consistent 124g +/- .1
Just weighed 10 .223 bullets from Berrys. 55gr fmjbt w/ cannelure. 8 of 10 weighed 55.3 gr. other 2 were within .2. Pretty good consistency there.
If you're paying for the cheapest "jacketed" bullets available, which is what you're paying for and getting with plated bullets, and you're also expecting premium bullet consistency, you're the one that's at opposite ends of the scale at the same time. And even though your little "scale" makes the "spreads" look much more dramatic, you have 1.3 grains of difference between the bottom and top end of your first scale. That's .72% of your target weight and I'd be very surprised if the guaranteed "accuracy" of your scale is +/- .36%. I'm sure there are specifications somewhere that will tell you. Regardless, to say you're trying to have your cake and eat it too buying the cheapest "jacketed" bulllets available while expecting consistency that even at this level is probably significantly better than other variables in your reloads like powder charges. After all, just a .1-grain difference on a 6-grain charge is 1.6% of the total. More than double your bullet weight variance from best to worst. Are you stressing over .1 grain twice as much as you are about less than half as much variance in bullet weights? I doubt it. And if you really want accuracy and consistency and low cost you could do what competition handgun shooters have done for decades and decades. Cast your own bullets. Semi-wadcutter cast bullets have had an excellent reputation for accuracy and precision for a LONG TIME. I cast some 200-grain SWCs in .45 for a "varmint round" project a few years back as part of an ongoing and long-term "project" to shoot a prairie dog with every one of the 25 or so guns I own, figuring to use them as my varmint bullets knowing I was going to do a lot of missing shooting at prairie dogs with a 1911. I can't recall if I trickled my powder charges or not, but I do know that kind of on a whim I decided to "test" them using my Les Baer Premier II Tactical with the optional 1.5" @ 50 yds guarantee. I got really "high-tech" and "scientific" benchresting over the hood of my pickup out in a gravel pit that was is one of the local "ranges" where I grew up. And I fired a 3-round groups at a solid 50 yards and probably a yard or two extra. One the downside I didn't do a good job of managing my muzzle blast and it never occured to me having back in front of the muzzle was really stupid, so one of my bags took it in the shorts with .45 ACP muzzle blast iimpacting nylon bean bag shell. But on the bright side I verfied the accuracy of my bullets and pistol when my 3 rounds went into a triangular group exactly 1.5" from center to center of the two farthest apart holes. Seriously, if you want to shoot accurately and precisly and inexpensively, cast your own or buy cast semi-wadcutters. I've loaded a lot of Berry's bullets and I've still got a lot of them and they're great bullets, but I haven't bought any since I started casting. You're literally paying significantly more to give up accuracy and precision and the ability to do your own QC at your bench rather than wonder about it and test for it when its too late to do anything about it anyway.
I've never had to buy lead bullets. When my father passed, he left me all his lead and casting equipment. I have around 3000 lbs of lead ingots already mixed and ready to rock..
Wow.....I'm just starting into casting.....
Damn that is a shit ton, need you to send me email with your phone number ups needs it to ship sorry buddy tried to ship 30 mins ago.
Message sent, thanks Rick.
pretty nice Rick.
That was a very informative and well done testing of weights. Thank you for doing this, it was enlightening.
I use xtreme Bullets in 9 mm and 380 and in 45 and not a problem with any of them copper plate some time I have to look for a recipe for them but there not bad
donyou still load x.treme to.lead specs?
Think safe for glock barrels.... thats my worry
Vanilla Gorilla oh I see what your question is. I only load copper jacketed. If I shoot lead I would change barrel to after market for sure. Load what the specs say for lead.
Thanks
I have good luck with Berry's
This isn't the test i was looking for. I reload simply for affordability, nothing more. I can shoot more on less $ I'm going with the cheaper ammo even if it is "less accurate" by a fraction of a moa
Josh Cc600 have you tried Acme bullets? Love those and even cheaper. Shoot great and accurate. They are coated. Not FMJ
40mm 🤔
in reality if ya weighed every bullet in a box you'll get the same results over a larger sample from both brands though this is why comp. shooters and snipers load all ammo and weigh every bullet for accurate shooting
There is literally nothing accomplished by weighing every bullet when there's nothing you can do to "fix" light or heavy bullets that doesn't do more harm than good. And I know this is going to blow your mind but bullet weight and tiny variations in them have no effect on "accuracy" and "precision" because each slightly different bullet is going into a different cartridge to be fired at a different time with a slightly different powder charge and at a slightly different set of amospheric conditions, etc. There are only so many "variables" that can be "controlled" in ammunition and shooting. The huge number of variables that can't even be detected by the shooter much less compensated for and all the ones a shooter is powerless to do anything about are what cause "groups" larger than one hole.
If there was as much "precision" in precision and long-range shooting as you think there is, the term "center mass" wouldn't exist.
A little update to my longwinded commment about buying cheap bullets, expecting premium quality and buying bullets vs. casting if you want cheap and accurate:
On a whim I grabbed a few .401 Lee "micro-groove" 175-grain SWCs I cast a while back and tossed them on my Hornady GS-1500 and did the same with a few .452 230-grain round-nose bullets (think FMJ/hardball with no jacket). I'm not a master caster, I scavenge and clean and cast "range lead" by sifting bank and berm gravel through a screen at an old "range" thats really a small gravel pit/dump but thats been the local shooting spot for decades and decades. I find everything from lead .22LR bullets to .38 full wadcutters (perfectly cylindrical bullets with a flat face and amazing accuracy from revolvers) to an occasional shotgun slug to jacketd pistol bullets by the hundreds of pounds. Wash the dirt off, allow to dry, melt down in a pan, flux with candle wax, skim off the "dross" which is literally everything that's not lead since everything floats on lead (and even pristine FMJ bullets end up hollow when the lead sweats through the copper jacket - cool stuff) and pour it into ignots that end up in my 10-pound bottom pour pot. I've got ingots of who knows what lead I bought on ebay before I started scavenging my own, lead from other sources I've scrapped, etc and I end up with mostly "pure" and "dead soft" lead that shouldn't have much antimony, tin etc in it and judging by how soft my bullets (antimony hardens lead) are and how my molds can be difficult to fill at times (tin makes slicker allow that fills mold cavities better) and especially when not good and hot, I think my lead is pretty pure generally pretty pure but I just grab some ingots out of my bucket and toss them in the pot and what comes out is what I shoot. The beauty of casting is that the mistakes and defects go right back into the pot and you can literally weigh every bullet as it comes from the mold and pass/fail at the point of production. I tossed those bullets from my list because if I were casting for absolute accuracy or choosing bullets by weight for "Match Grade" ammo they'd obviously get tossed anyway. These bullets have also been lubricated with Liquid Alox, which is kind of an almost cosmoline type substance that' puts kind of a waxy coating over bullets that I just put in a plastic container, squirt in some Alox and stir and "tumble" around until they're all coated and I add a little more Alox as required. It takes time to dry and its impossible to get perfectly consistent coatings and I don't know if it could affect weights by .01 grain or .1 grain if its a little thicker or thinner. I think people will agree that given my "spreads" aren't too shabby given my relative "rookie" status as a caster, general "I'll make bullets out of anything and literally junk I find on the ground" approach to material "procurement" and my Lee aluminum molds being made probably more for affordability and ease of use and volume casting rather than perfect bullets.. They do throw pretty consistently sized bullets and I use corresponding Lee sizer dies that don't remove lead from the bullets but rather "squeeze down" the oversized bullets so weight should be retained. Maybe 1 or 2 bullets in ten that I size actually seem to be sized at all based on the press handle force needed to push them through the die. I do admit to doing other "culling" of my bullets because I've got a container of bullets from a few different casting sessions using different lead supplies and there are very obvious multiple-grain variations separating the whole pile into three obviously different "melts". So I picked the "middle" melt and bullets obviously from it. The consistency is all in the lead supply.And there are lots of ways to get or create "perfect" lead and lead alloys for a given purpose. I don't put much faith in the "a 180-grain mold has to produce 180-grain bullets view some purists and perfectionists have. You'll rarely find ANY bullets all perfectly "spot on" the "listed" weight. As long as the bullets are as consistent and "even" as possible, whether they're a grain or two "light or "heavy" compared to the "specification" on the mold makes no difference. If you want a large supply of consistent and even bullets, buy or melt a large quantity of alloy, melt and cast it all into bullets at the same time, check the weights as you cast and sort them and grade them however you please.
So, here are my backwoods, rookie f$ckwad homemade bullets weighed for consistency:
.401" 175-grain SWC - 178.3 - 178.1 - 177.5 - 177.8 - 177.6 - 177.8 - 178.3 - 178.1
.452" 230-grain RN - 227.7 - 228.8 - 228.8 - 228.3 - 227.9 - 228.0 - 227.5 - 227.8
Pretty hard to beat the cheapest bullets you can find for both cost and consistency. I see .6 grain max difference in the .401s and 1.1 grains total difference in the .452s. I do realize that some guns aren't supposed to have lead bullets fired through them, but that's a really good indication to me that said gun isn't worth shoting good consistent bullets through anyway if acuracy and precision are the goal. So-called"octagonal rifling" is CHEAP and so are teh guns that use it, no matter the price tag. You pay a lot for a cheap gun and then can't save money shooting cheap bullets through it or get maximum accuracy out of it shooting what often are one and the same with the cheap bullets. Just one of many Glock "paradoxes" I'm apparently to gun-stupid to understand. Probably explains why I don't own expensive cheap guns I can't shoot cheap bullets through without replacing the cheap expensive factory barrel with an expensive cheap barrel that's cheap bcause it's not "Glock" and expensive because....it's not Glock.
DEEREMEYER1
WTF
Clearly you should just stick to COD. You're not sharp enough to "play" with real guns if you respond to my information with "WTF". You're not even smart enough to use a question mark behind it, dumbass. WTF is that buying jacketed/plated commercial bullets to "save money" shooting in quantity is fucking stupid because casting bullets produces much "cheaper" and more "consistent" bullets. Do you need somebody to draw you a picture?
🇦🇺😎👍
I shoot the exteme 9mm in my glock. Never used the Berry bullets. Match ammo I use cast bullets.
Nice good info, haven't done any cast stuff yet.
6, Marcus King tomorrow night in Asheville music hall 5 bucks! Take the wife out!
I shoot berry bullets in an AR 15 work pretty good just a little wider group than Hornady ballistic tip zombie Max
have not tried 223 berry stuff good info thanks
+Isyour6covered®
ya I run it hot 27.5grn of varget you may get better accurate rounds going less I only run hot hand loads maxed out. I find the faster the rounds the better down range so long as you have proper bullets. less moving around going faster in high winds as I have seen on a crotch rocket same thing in bullets being shot out of a gun. all about speed offsetting the wind and you plane out smooth and sleek.
Shot a bunch of Berry;s never tried the Extreme
I'm the opposite! Xtreme yes, Berry's no...Berry's is always more expensive......
Be carefull with that P O S Scale when measuring the powder.
Back in the day. Grand pops would make me do this and fine all the same for a cal. SO like if we where loading for a 308. The load he was looking for called for 185.0 gn. Then he best have all of them to be 185.0. Are ammo would cost for 20 rounds some times as much as $2.50 a pop. Tho's where the guys who where shooting some nutty stuff and where willing to pay for a top of the line full on custom load for there gun.
So Rickyou would call and say. I need 20 rounds for my 308 for deer hunting. We would go in and find the info for your load. So we would have all the stuff the power primmers trem the brand of primmers brass for that load. It would go on and on. But you would know that this ammo was 100% the best we could made for your gun. Some guys would call 2 times a year some maybe 1 in a few years. One thing that stands out they would all say. Your ammo is not cheap but well worth knowing that it's the best I can get. THen they would say a lot I did know the ammo did it's best and there was no blaming it on the ammo lol.
great comment that how you make it accurate.
yankey4
This is an extremely long comment, but it brings back wonderful life long memories of the times I spent with my Dad his Brothers, their Dad”my Grandfather” and 3 of my Cousins.
My Dad and his Brothers Loaded and Reloaded all their Ammunition. Of course not.22 Rimfire Ammunition.They all used 30.06 Chambered Remington Bolt Action Rifles for White Tail Deer.These Rifles Remington Model 700s. The ones with the black” I’m not sure but I think it’s Ebony Wood”on the end of the Forward Grip. I don’t remember what Brand of Scopes they used. I do remember one of my Uncles telling me that the Scope on his Rifle cost more than the Rifle. My Grandfather used a Model 94 Winchester 30.30 with no Scope and would generally harvest a Deer every season.I used my Dads Remington Model 700 with no Black piece on the end of the Forward Grip,Chambered in. 243 Winchester with a scope that I don’t remember what make it was.Three of my Cousins also hunted with our family. One used a Marlin Lever Action Chambered in 30.30 with a scope that was his dads.Another Cousin used a Bolt Action Winchester Model I’m pretty sure it was a Model 70 Chambered in .270 Winchester with a Scope that was his Dads. The final Cousin used a Winchester Lever Action I’m not sure of what Model it was. I do remember it was Chambered in 44.40 with no scope and was our Grandfathers. All the Reloaded Ammunition my Grandfather,Cousins and I used were not custom loads.
My Dad and his Brothers were extremely particular as to the Grain weight, Length and the Diameter of the Projectiles using a micrometer to measure the Diameter and length and for this time period a high quality balance beam Scale to weigh the Projectiles,also they were particular as too what Primers and Gun Powder was being used for their Hunting Custom Ammunition. They used only one Brand and lot number of New Remington Brass Cases that they Custom Loaded for Deer Hunting. These men didn’t ever over charge their Ammunition with more gun powder that exceeded the maximum charge. I remember my Dad Telling me that more gun powder doesn’t make a round any more accurate than using less gun powder and that there is a sweet spot for the Gun Powder charge and it differed from his 30.06 Chambered Rifle and his Brothers,even though they were the same model Rifles.If you reload your Ammunition of course you know that the amount of Grains of Gun Powder is specific to the Brand of Gun Powder you’re using and there is always a minimum and maximum grains of Gun Powder to use in the specific application of your Caliber,Brand of Gun Powder, Grain weight and the specifics of the Projectile being used and you should always start with the minimum Gun Powder charge and work your way up 0.1 Grain at at time until you’re satisfied with the results.I also remember my Dad and his Brothers using this Aluminum rod tool that my Dad made, that they used stick down through the muzzle into the Bore, then seat an empty trimmed to length,deburred and chamfored Brass Case that was modified on a Lathe by my Dad by drilling out the Primer pocket and threading the hole. When using this Brass case and fully Chambering it. They would use another tool my Dad made that would screw into the base of the Brass Case that was hollow and threaded it into where the primer would be pressed in and a thin piece of round stock that they would use to push the Projectile in towards the Seated Brass Case and the Aluminum rod that was through the bore to push the Projectile back towards the full seated brass case,from the Muzzle too determine the distance between the Ogive of the Projectile and the Lands and Grooves in their Rifles Barrels Bore. Then determine the distance they wanted between the Ogive of the Projectile and the Lands and Grooves in the Barrels Bore. This would determine how far the Projectiles were pressed and seated into the Primed and Gun Powder Charged Brass Cases. My Dad and his Brothers would do this to each individual Rifle and would of course keep the newly Custom Loaded Ammunition separate for each Rifle.My dad told me that doing this greatly increased the accuracy of their rifles. It took many weeks of trail and error until my Dad and his Brothers figured out the exact formula of their Custom Loaded Ammunition for each of their Rifle for the ultimate accuracy.As a matter of fact their custom loaded Ammunition wasn’t ever about maximum Powder Charges. It was for accuracy. The small difference in the amount of feet per second the Projectile is moving by adding more Gun Powder doesn’t improve accuracy at all. It can actually decrease your Rifles accuracy.I never understood why they never did any Competition Bench Shooting as my Dad and each one of Brothers were Excellent Shooters. The first time I went Deer Hunting. My dad was with me. About an hour after sunrise here comes a decent Buck. When I raised the rifle and laid it on a rail that was part of this large tree stand we were in.My Dad puts his hand on the rifle so I cannot shoot this Buck. This Buck was well over 100 yards. I quietly ask my Dad what am I doing wrong. He quietly says that using a rest is only for sighting in the rifle, and that I will shoot this rifle the way I was taught by him. By holding it and not using a rest. Well I did what he told me and was so surprised when the Buck I shot at dropped right where I shot at him.
When my Dad trusted me and knew that I was absolutely responsible in Gun Safety and the handling of any Firearm. He allowed me to handle and then shoot his prized Rifle. I was allowed at the Range my Dad and his Brothers made on my Grand Aunts Farm to shoot his Rifle using a bench rest to shoot the 30.06. Shooting the Reloads at 100 yards. In quite a few series of 5 shots. I got groups of no more than 3/4 of an inch. After going through the process of cleaning and letting the rifle acclimate to the outside temperature and shooting my Dads and his Brothers custom loads. At 100 yards shooting a 3 series of five rounds. My grouping was dead center each of the Bullseyes and less than 1/8 of an inch using a bench rest. I can say with absolute truth,that their Ammunition was absolutely more accurate than any Factory Run Ammunition. At 300 yards my Dad and his Brothers 5 shot groups using their Custom Loaded Ammunition. They would get groups of less than 1/4 on an inch. At 300 yards using a bench rest. In my early years of bench rest shooting I couldn’t get groups of 5 rounds to less than 1 inch. After quite a few years of bench rest shooting I could never get groups of 5 rounds less than 1/2 of an inch.
Even though their Rifles were not EVER banged around before during and after the Deer Hunting Season.My Dad and his Brothers always would make sure their Rifles were sited in.
They hunted with a bunch of their friends on my Grand Aunts 1,000 acre farm and forest. She had around 300 acres in crops the rest was Forest.None of these friends would ever touch my Dad or his Brothers Rifles. When I was finally old enough to go hunting with my Dad his Brothers their Friends and my Dads and his Brothers Father”my Grandfather” and 3 of my Cousins. My Grandfather,Cousins and I knew better than to touch or hold my Dads or his Brothers Rifles without first asking and in the early years of hunting with them just my Cousins and I were told if we wanted to keep our fingers too NEVER touch or pick up their rifles.
A few weeks before the opening of each Deer season my dad his Brothers and their Dad would go too their own range on my Grand Aunts Farm” my Grandfathers Sister”and test the accuracy of their New Loaded Ammunition in their Rifles and use up the Newly Reloaded Ammunition and the previous years Custom Ammunition.They would shoot their Rifles using reloads that weren’t up to their Par for Deer Hunting and then the previous years Custom Ammunition,before they would shoot some of their Newly Loaded Custom Ammunition.They would Completely clean their Rifles then after the Rifles completely acclimated to the outside temperature they would shoot at least 5 rounds of their Custom Ammunition. Waiting a few minutes between shooting each round.They would never use last seasons Ammunition for the next seasons Deer Hunting. My Grandfather would use my Dads and his Brothers 30.30 Winchester reloads that they Reloaded for him.These weren’t Custom Ammunition. They did what they were intended though. My Grandfather rarely didn’t harvest a Deer each season.The only Ammunition that they didn’t reload was the 44.40 Winchester Rounds. This Ammunition was purchased at Retail Store and it did what it was intended to do. Although my Cousin that used the Winchester Lever Action Chambered in 44.40 never harvested a Deer, but always did great at the Range.
I don’t ever remember them ever having to adjust the Windage or Elevation Adjustments on their Scopes when they were at my Grand Aunts farm.
In Pennsylvania where most of my family lived,it was a Tradition for White Tail Deer Hunting and the Middle and High Schools in our area of Pennsylvania would be Closed for the First Day of Deer Hunting.
Personally looking back at what my Dad and His Brothers did was way overboard but their passion for Deer Hunting made all they did worth it for themselves and they all harvested a White Tail Deer each season. Most of their friends rarely harvested a Deer. Generally because they missed when shooting at a Deer.
For myself using factory Ammunition or my Reloads that I can get groups of 1” or less at 100 yards is plenty satisfactory.
well within industry standards. Spend more time shooting and less time caring about arbitrary bs.
I am sure they are within standards but maybe the standard is not good enough. The video was to show companies standards. I think on pistol rounds it not noticeable, Rifle it means a lot. If you had a chance to watch my other videos you would see i shoot a lot mostly 3 to 4 days a week. Have a great day.
not just competition shooters will notioce old MARINE SNIPERS WOULD notice hay that's me
They're econom-priced bullets for high-volume practice, plinking and "training". What the fuck do you expect? Match bullets? You're talking even a TWO grains difference is less than ONE PERCENT variation from bullet to bullet. Show me handloads with super-expensive, high-quality match bullets and perfect matched powder charges that come within one percent of each other on a chronograph shot after shot.
DEEREMEYER1 take it easy just showing a comparison. It you separate you have better groups.