Replace A Panel In An Overhead Garage Door
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- Опубліковано 23 жов 2013
- How to replace a rotted or damaged panel in an overhead garage door section. Overhead garage door panels take a beating, but you can replace them with these tricks. Rather than buy a whole new door, see if you can repair what you have.
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I can’t say thank you enough. You did such an outstanding video. So well demonstrated and so clearly explained. Just perfect. Thanks a million!
Thank you! It was really hard to find anyone who had done a video like this! You've helped me know how to proceed with replacing my garage door panels!
Dude. You are a genius. I wish I would have seen this 3 years ago when I repainted my doors. I'll be making this repair this spring. Thanks so much for sharing!
Great explanation and the tip on the wood hardener was indeed a bonus. Thanks very much for sharing your experience and expertise.
This is an awesome video! I need to do this to my garage for a couple panels and this is the best step by step instruction.
You did it just how I was planning to do it! Thanks for the great tip on the wood hardener and for the excellent step by step. I have an 18 x 8 garage door with about 8 sections that need repair. Mine are luan, but it is 35 years old so it needs some help. The only thing I'm going to do different is replace the hinge screws with carriage bolts (SS). That ought to make the doors almost as good as new. Thanks for validating my idea... I have read so many sites that say replace the doors... but I really like mine and they cost so much now to replace.
They are indeed expensive to replace. If you catch the problem soon enough, though, you can get many more years out of the existing door.
Thank you so much for the help and the steps to get the panel replaced, I had to replace the whole bottom section.
Thank you! I’m doing this on my garage doors this weekend. Your tutorial is great
Thanks for this helpful video. I installed the garage door myself in 1984 so I am sentimental about it and want it to last. With a fresh coat of paint it now looks new. I used quarter inch plywood to replace the damaged panels. Now the door is even easier to lift. Thanks for helping me keep this garage door going another 30 years
Glad it worked out--it's amazing how much more life you can get out of things when you take some time for repairs and maintenance!
You're awesome! Thanks for the great explanation on how to do this!
Thanks for posting this, just what I was looking for, appreciated!
That was just fantastic. Thank you so much. A door ordered from home depot in June is missing in action. And no one, I mean no one, has a 7x8 door with windows in inventory. This is the perfect solution for us.
I can't tell you how many times in the past few years I've had a job held up by lack of available materials. I even repaired a fiberglass bathtub in order to complete a bath remodel. If you can repair what is there you are ahead of the game.
Great video, exactly what I was looking for.
Sweet 👍, my brothers and I are in need of this video info. My brother sent it to me. Thank you so much for making this video. I did suggest to my brother that we could probably replace the panels instead of the whole garage door. Our door is a bit wider than the normal size.
exactly what I was planning to do, your video helped to plan it better, thank you!
Great video, exact what I'm looking for.
Exactly what I needed to know, thank you so much! I think I can do it....
That was very helpful. Thank you.
Brilliant. Thanks for the lesson!
Couldn't have made the job any easier. Great advice for a hands-on repair.
Thank you so much! Your video was truly needed and appreciated!
Glad it was helpful!
Thank you! Use my garage for hobbies and I need more light. Wanted to replace top row with translucent acrylic panels. Now I know how to do it! Thanks so much
Did you do it?? How’d it turn out? Planning same!
Thanks! Excellent video!!
Just the information I needed thanks.
Great video. Thanks for the info.
Thank you! This is very helpful. Cheers.
Awesome video!
Thank you for this!!
Your idea worked great for me!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Thank you Sir. Very good!
Very good video thank you.
Great video. I tried to patched with Bendo but cracked during winter. Thanks.
Thank you so much my panels are warped with rain or water that has come out of the gutter and splashed on the bottom of the door. Excellent video thank you so much.
This is exactly what I was looking for. Perfect how to. We might even have the same door
This is a very common door, so you very well may have the same one.
Yes, you can paint over it, although I prime first. It's actually a handy product to have around for situations like this.
Great job
Thank you very much !!!
great idea .thanks alot
Really helpful
A very helpful video! Everyone else has you remove the entire horizontal section. This looks very do-able and way easier. However, for added thickness and insulation, I'm going to attempt replace my flat particle board panels with raised panels. We'll see how it goes. Thanks again for posting this video.
Good luck!
Great video. No fluff.
The only thing I did differently was only remove 3 sides of molding inside instead of 4.
Yes, you might be able to remove only three sides, depending on how much room there is for the panel.
Awesome. Appreciate it.
Used your method to forestall buying new garage doors! It worked great. Somewhat time consuming but "time is money." Even found an excuse to buy a new tool (Dewalt Oscillating Tool). I also used Water putty to patch up part of the rotted wood. Neat stuff. Thanks again
Cheapskates unite! Glad it worked out well for you...
I KNEW as soon as I saw Enduring Charm LLC I was going to see a great video on a project I started. Exactly what I needed to see. A couple observations you may comment on is that my old door panels were 5/16" (50 years ago) and best I can get in plywood to fit is 3/16" Luan Plywood. Also, I noticed on your video you worked the trim on the inside (as well as another person). I started to cut the bottom trim on the outside mostly because it was rotted in the corner. Didn't realize until later it was not quarter round. I assume putting a piece of quarter round on the outside isn't going to be a problem? I would mill it down to match the other's outside. Again, great helpful video.
One trick you may be able to use is to purchase a thicker plywood than you need and then rabbit the edges to get to your 5/16" thickness. Plywood does come in many thicknesses, but availability can be lacking, especially in small quantities. Of course, you need to be wary of the weight difference for the garage door since the springs are calibrated to the door weight.
As for the quarter round on the outside, the ideal solution is to work from the inside so that when you install the panel it pushes against the outside profile. It just helps to keep water and rot at bay. Since you already cut the exterior you can make it work, but just be meticulous about caulking and paint. You should watch another video of mine and pay attention the West System epoxy I use for a repair. It may be helpful in your case too: ua-cam.com/video/3-l-ZUMF_VY/v-deo.htmlsi=l_QDDVYuXzoVWHvr
Good job
pretty useful
Wanted to say Thank you! I was tired of my house looking like it was abandoned and your video made it look so easy. My doors are beautiful now and hopefully we can get a few more good years out of them before having to spend $3,000 on new ones. I would add before and after photos if I could.
This man is not worried about getting a splinter at all
Excellent! Thanks for the instruction. I have a whole slew of them to replace. As in 24. I’ll see how the first one goes.
At a certain point it makes more sense just to get a new garage door! If you have 24 panels for the same garage, you might be at that point.
enduringcharm no I’m already in it. Took about 2 hours to get 12 panels out. After removing 3 or 4 it’s gets easier. Using that vibratory saw helps.
I didn’t quite catch the name of the board you replace the panes with. It’s got to be better than that Masonite or whatever they used originally. Thanks again for the instructional video.
You can replace the panels with an exterior grade plywood or well painted lauan plywood. Keep in mind that if you replace that many panels, there could be a weight difference between the old and new door. Your springs could be too strong, for example, if all the new panels are lighter.
enduringcharm Good point.
Is wood hardener paintable? If so using it on the new panels bottom edge couldn't hurt either. Thanks for the tips.
I have same door same problem. Thanks
Finally found the exact video that i need. Thank you so much!!! You mentioned in the video that you could put in new trims, but you ended up using the existing trims instead since they were not damaged. Could you please share how you'd go about obtaining or making new trims? Thanks again
You can march right on down to your local lumber yard or Home Cheapo and look for either quarter round moulding or shoe moulding. They look pretty similar, but the shoe moulding has a slightly narrower side to it. It comes in various sizes, so just match up what looks close to what you took out. You'll cut it to size with 45 degree angles on the ends and nail it in place using small brads.
thank you. very helpful video.
dude this helps me out a lot thanks ... (AngerIssues) i kinda punched a hole in mine,, so need quick replacing for winter,,,
Younginfamou$ Well, I hope you can contain your anger long enough to complete the repair!
The oscillating tool and your steady hand and then finessing seemed to get a pretty clean flush cut. Wondering if a special router bit instead or after could help. Probably overkill.
Wood hardener: great tip!!
If you don't have a multitool or you don't feel confident, you could use a simple utility knife instead. With careful slices through the wood multiple times you should be able to lift the pieces out. Before multitools existed that's exactly what we would do!
VERY good video. Nice pace and zoomed in right when I wanted to have a close up view. I'm planning to replace at least one panel (I backed into it with the hitch on my car) and this is a great step-by-step. Are the 1/4-round pieces mitered? Thanks for doing this tutorial!
Yes, the 1/4 round moulding (or a shoe moulding would work) is mitered at the corners. I reused the cut-off pieces but that isn't always an option.
Thanks!
Great video. I need to repair a panel damaged by a skateboard, however it is a raised panel. I suppose I could fabricate on on the table saw . What do you think? MDF? Thanks.
If it's the raised panel typically found on garage doors, its a very shallow cut, right? Much less than you would find on a kitchen cabinet door? MDF would not be a good choice--that will turn to mush with the first rain. MDO (medium density overlay) would be okay, except that when you cut the raised part you'll expose the inside. So that's out. The easiest two choices are real wood (you may need to glue up a panel) or PVC sheet plastic. The latter is sold in 3/4 and 1/2 inch thicknesses in most areas. It's not fun to work with, but it will machine just fine. PVC expands and contracts with temperature, though, so you'd need to leave room for that since the wood door will be expanding and contracting by humidity. A table saw will work just fine, and I even have a video showing how to make raised panels on a table saw!
I have this same garage door but the bottom board needs replacement. As you pointed out this board is routed (profiled) and slotted. Any tips would be appreciated.
+Noble Smith At some point you need to throw in the towel and get a new door. However, I have successfully replaced the bottom rail for a client in the past. It's really just a matter of cutting off the old one and using router bits and/or a table saw (plus some hand clean up) to create a new one. You can use long timber screws to attach the rail to the stiles. Is it worth it? Maybe not. If you're an expert woodworker you can make and install the new rail more quickly than you can order a new door. Obviously the price is less too. But, if you are not an expert it might be time to call the garage door vendor of your choice.
Very helpful, as I have some animal damage (eaten away) to a bottom rail and panel, at a corner.
Great video, thanks! Our garage door was installed in 1970 and though it looks similar, it doesn't look like there are separatable pieces of 1/4 round for each frame. I could be wrong but with one particle board panel severely buckled, I can see the interior construction and it looks like the door frame was built with rounded edges and grooves for each panel. Guess I'll have to cut those edges out somehow and then replace with 1/4 round. Any suggestions appreciated.
If you look at 2:17, that's exactly what I'm talking about--cutting through the rounded over edge. Now, your edge profile may be different, but the same process will work. You'll cut away enough of the frame to expose the edge of the panel, then you'll replace what you cut away with a piece of 1/4 round or similar moulding when you put it back together. The outside or front stays as it is.
@@enduringcharm Ah, got it - thanks! I thought it was an old piece of 1/4 round frame that was separate, but now I see. Really appreciate the reply!
I try to upcycle whenever I can. Would using the wood from an old (real wood) hollow core door work insead of using the Lauan shown here?
Eh, probably not a good idea. The old door probably isn't made of exterior grade material and you risk delamination. Hollow core doors are typically made from an interior grade plywood.
Would you use the hardener over the primed surface? Or do you think the primer by itself would be sufficient?
No, the hardener is designer to soak into bare wood and harden inside the pores and grain. It will do no good at all on top of paint.
enduringcharm
Thanks. Just saw you previous comment also, about being to prime and paint over the hardener. Will be doing that.
You know how a lot of the new garage doors have glass or acrylic panels instead of the wood like you just replaced? Do you know where to source the material and could you see replacing all the wood panels with the frosted glass look?
I've not seen the doors you describe, it might be a popular regional thing or it may be only in warm climate areas. Acrylic can be sourced online, but I would question it's suitability as a replacement for the wood panels, especially as far as durability during movement. The wood panels do provide structural rigidity for the door frames. Also, the weight difference between the wood and the acrylic might be an issue. I think if you want that look it would be more effective to replace the whole door with one designed that way rather than trying to retrofit.
Will it last longer? I used thin ply and it eventually delaminated. Aren’t there panels of a better material to be had?.
You need to use an exterior rated plywood, which has adhesive designed to withstand water. And, you need to thoroughly paint the panel.
Hi, I know your video was made a few years ago and I hope that my message gets to you. I have a four paneled overhead wood garage door and I need to replace the bottom panel rail. The square panels are not in too bad a shape, but I plan on replacing them for good measure. Is there a place online that I can go to buy replacement panels? The door is over twenty five years old and I repainted it about ten years ago, but now the bottom panel rail is rotten and needs replacing. I've looked online and haven't found anything so far. One thing I can't quite tell in taken my bottom panel off because of the paint is if the half round molding on both the outside and in side is a separate molding strip or is it an integral part of the panel rail that is a molding in itself made at the door manufacturer. If it is it would be an elaborate single piece molding. Thank you very much.
Sorry, the only way you'll get panels or the bottom rail is to make them yourself or have a local woodworker or carpenter do it for you. It is sometimes possible to buy an entire section of a garage door, but that is likely only if you have a common size and style which isn't too old.
@@enduringcharm Thank you for your advice
And then I wonder if there was finger jointing between strikes and rails (or rabbit/tenon).
hi enduringcharm can you tell me what size is the panel my garage door is the same size thank u
I'm afraid they will all be a little different depending on the overall width of the door and the manufacturer. There is no standard. You'll have to measure and cut your own. If you don't have a table saw you can cut with a circular saw, and even use the jig I show in another video:
ua-cam.com/video/oiSz7kPwFY0/v-deo.html&list=PLD4oAOZqK9mDRnc-GiaRH8YjZu-ndUnHV
ok thank you so much
Thank you cuz mine have holes in them..easy peezy
Can I use wood glue in place of caulking?
I wouldn't recommend it. Glue will harden and pin the panel in place, which defeats the purpose of having a panel in the first place. The whole point of any paneled door is that it allows expansion and contraction of the wood within the assembly. Using caulk is a better idea because there is some flexibility in caulk and it will move with the wood.
Could you also just put glass in there with some quarter round behind it? My glass section seems pretty square so my one fear is making the cut as precise as possible.
If you already have a glass section up top then you can probably replace it without too much trouble, using clear silicone to bed the glass and provide some flexibility. And then trim around the edge. A local glass company will cut it to size for you. However, if you are trying to replace a lower section of wood with glass that will likely not be successful for long. There is too much flex and bump in the operation of the door and it will crack. Of course, plexiglass is always an option but that will look hazy and scratched in short order.
Interesting. I had thought the panels were held in groves using cope and stick joints. So, for a garage door, are the stiles and rails jointed with just a butt joint? I have dry rot in the bottom rail of my garage door. It would be much easier to patch if the stiles and rails just use butt joints. Thanks.
You are exactly right--they use the cope and stick method of construction. The panels are replaced by cutting away part of the back side profile to release the panel and then replacing that bit of profile. To replace a bottom rail, for example, you need to hand fit a replacement and create a new profile using whatever tooling you have since it is unlikely you have the same profile available as the manufacturer. I have done it before, but the time and effort is likely not worth it--better to just replace the door or a whole section.
enduringcharm
Thanks. I just re-watched the video and listened more carefully. I was confused at first because I heard "quarter round molding" so I thought that was what it was. But you were just comparing it to a quarter round molding.
On my older garage door it appears the inside and outside molding are all one piece with the rails and stiles. It seems like the only way to replace the center panel would be to deconstruct each section of door - a lot of work that doesn’t seem worth it for my old door
I did show in the video that what may look like a quarter-round moulding around the edge of each panel is actually milled into the profile of the rails and stiles. Is that what you mean? You just cut off the inside of that profile to release a panel, and then replace it with an actual quarter-round moulding.
I see now, I misunderstood that part. I have a multitool so I will go ahead and cut out the pieces from the inside. Thanks for the reply.
Where can we buy these panels?
You'll need to make your own using an exterior grade plywood product. Most doors will need either 1/4" or 3/8" thickness, but check what you have.
My garage door is years past yours in the level of degrading. All 10 panels in my door need replacing. thinking about plastic, since the rain drips there and splashes the door, that's what messed it up this wooden door.
The trouble with mixing plastic or PVC with wood is that they expand and contract at differing rates and for different reasons. Wood expands and contracts with changes in moisture or humidity. PVC or plastic expands and contracts with differences in temperature. When you mix the two they tend to blow apart. You should probably stick with an exterior grade plywood and just be thorough about priming the edges before you install it.
You literally skipped the hardest part. Putting the new panel into place.
That really shouldn't be difficult. If you have prepped the opening well and cut the panel to size it should just pop in. Is there something in particular you have struggled with?