Jason C. I agree. Pure genius! And a nice humble guy! How could anyone thumbs down. If i believed in Karma, it would one day cause the thumbs down people to have a car issue and the mech /tech would have 1/10th of Keith's ability and never stop paying to have the same problem fixed. (Keith would probably slap my fingers for this comment)
Excellent, expedient diagnostic work. Thanks again for the sharing (experience). Tech Tip (per Scanner Danner): Consider heat and vibration areas for guidance of fault locations.
I love how you let logic based on your knowledge and experience dictate your direction moving forward. I also love how you clearly describe exactly what thought process you use to come to a conclusion. Thank you for this invaluable information. It would take years of experience through trial and error to obtain the information you just shared in less than eight minutes. You are a diagnostic God.
HA Ijust came from watching the Jeep video with the PCI issues. I once did this very same diag, It was a busy day and I wasn't in the mood for anything. No start. Literally crawled under the truck unplugged the first box I saw back under the truck and then started it up. Shop owner's jaw dropped and I told him I would be back in a day to program that module. Didn't even plug in a scan tool, didn't even look to see what the module was for.
Perfect timing, I was in the middle of discussing how your geographic area factors into your diagnostic routine. Then Boom, you pop up with a video explaining how that factors in perfectly. Excellent work as always Keith. Thanks for taking the time to walk us through. 👨🔧
WOW KEITH HOW DID YOU KNOW I REALLY NEEDED A VIDEO , OK MY STRATEGY IS TO QUESTION THE CUSTOMER , THEN CONFIRM THE COMPLAINT , VISUAL INSPECTION , SCAN CHECK THEN START GOING CRAZY . GOOD TO SEE SOME OF US STAY IN CONTROL AND REALLY REALLY LOOKING FORWARD TO A NEXT VIDEO MAN UP TO MY EYE BALLS IN NOTHING YOU KNOW YOU GOT MY VOTE MAN !
When ever you talk about "process or logic" you have my interest. Having a direction based on experience and how to logically attack a diagnostic issue is invaluable to me, thank you.
Inspirational stuff. Thanks for taking the time to do these videos. Our industry seems to be moving away from making others look bad to make yourself look good and turning into a community. The old adage of it takes a village to raise a kid is turning into it takes a village to fix a car!
I'm glad you brought up how noisy these GM CAN systems are. I chased my tail on a G5 yrs ago after finding a bad trans module that was pulling down the CAN. To me, the signal was still 'bad'.. Out of desperation, I called the GM tech hotline. Guy asked, Do you have communication now? I said yes. He said Don't worry about it, that's just the way they are. Who knew?
Thanks for making this make sense for me, I have trouble sometimes on where to start and watching you has made this easier to grasp. Thanks for sharing your time, knowledge and videos, I truly appreciate everything you do!!
Absolutly amazing man. U make it seem so simple and in a way it is if u can approach it like someone with your knowlege and experience but it take alot of years and dedication to gain thoses valuable tools. Your fun to watch man. Thanks
Thank you Dylan. I really believe it's all about the approach. The cars themselves are throwing us hints when they fail. We just have to listen logically sometimes and not get overwhelmed
Nice to see how you approached this Keith. very logical as always and right to the problem. Ignore the two muppets who gave a thumbs down. They didn't have their snickers today. :)
Using the same approach Eric has used. Look for the most likely or easiest modules to unplug first. Having a break out box that flashes all the active modules helps also. Nice work.
man i'm just itching for October when Steve is back on the Long Iland Exspress..He just as well move over to the States...He would have all the work he could handle just doing Land Rovers lol.jk..Great video Keith.
Thanks. Brother I love you video is 3:30 and I get of my bed i take my keys I went to my car I did exactly what you did and it works 🙏🙏🙏🙏. Thanks brother
Great video thanks brother. I like the way you think outside of the box. Great information and fix explanation. Keep up the great work see you in the next video thanks again brother
That's impressive, straight to the issue and temporarily take it out of the equation. I have a 2010 awd Escalade w/Luxury package. I get the click no start quite a bit, I've narrowed it down to the battery current sensor, by wiggling around the ground cable and smaller gauge ground going to front of the frame from negative battery terminal (engine starts right up). I'm not sure which battery current sensor is supposed to be on my vehicle. There is a 1st design for bcm w/10 volt supply and 2nd design for bcm w/ 5 volt supply . 6.2L flexfuel L94 engine. The part number on the sensor now is for 10volt supply. I'm thinking maybe previous owner put the wrong one on. Yet dealerships cannot confirm which battery current sensor is supposed to be on my Escalade. I'd appreciate any advice you could give me. Thank you.
Absolutely great information! I have high voltage on the canbus over 8 volts with no comms to scan tool. I unplug the abs module, voltage stabilizes to 2.5v, tool connects and vehicle starts and runs normal. Different abs module installed and the exact same issue when plugged back in? What would induce voltage on the network when the abs is plugged in that is not the abs module? Could another module or wire down stream be effected by the abs module plug unplugging? Wiring and plug looks great to the abs. I can also connect to the network with the abs unplugged. Thanks in advance.
If I get 25% as good as you, Keith, I'll be doing damn good! 🍻 Some days I feel like I'll never get a handle on modern vehicles. I got my ass handed to me today by a '00 Jaguar S-Type - had 17 transmission codes, so I figured a slam dunk chaffed wiring issue. Wiring diagrams were completely useless - all numbered with no chart telling what the numbers were. Fuses weren't labeled either! Typical Ford there. Found the owner's manual - fuse was good. Had to shut the camera off and stare at the transmission under the car for a bit. I needed to find where all the wires entered the tranny. BINGO - loose connector (bolt was finger tight!). Repaired the kinked loom (wasn't a problem, but it bugged me), sprayed DeoxIT all over both ends, plugged her back in and tightened the bolt. Now only 1 code - pressure switch A. Cleared and drove 3x, came back every time. Fairly certain it's the switch itself. I almost threw in the towel on this one out of frustration! Glad I stuck with it. Car has 100x more power than it did, and now shifts through all gears, instead of staying in 4th from idle to redline. Also fixed a misfire due to a half dead coil. A partial win.😁 I'll have to see what I can salvage for a video, lol. Lots of bad words flying today! 😬
Hello Keith, thank you for this video. i have a 2007 Escalade ESV and it is driving me nuts. i have nearly the same issue. When i will start the car, sometimes there is no crank, no click. When this happens, i can not read the dtc with a scan tool. There is no communication. When i disconnect the battery and wait about 10 min, reconnect the battery, most of the time it will start. But now always after a short time all the gauges will go mad like in your video. The transmission does not shift anymore etc. Can you give me some advice? Thnak you.
Keith was thinking of upgrading to this ads 625. Do you know how much updates or subscription is? Also I heard the color diagrams you show here come free with the subscription is that true? Looks like it almost has a pro demand type software built in?
Great video and very informative..! I have a 2007 Ext Cadillac..any chance that you can tell me why my backup/reverse lights stay on? I replaced the brake switch on the brake pedal...someone said the relay to the backup/reverse lights burned out in the ON position but I cant find the relay... someone else said that the relay to the backup/reverse lights is in that little BCM black box that your working on?
Much more to it than how you've been told. First there is a module within the transmission that will be sending a message on the Bussed network back to the body control module when placed in reverse. The body control module then makes determination that the relay in the underhood fuse block should be turned on ,at that same time it turns on the rearview camera via the left side fuse block. If the camera is not on then we concentrate outside the vehicle and around the underhood fuse block . You won't find a relay as it is built within the block . However there is a fuse out there labeled VEH/Backup. First step is to remove the fuse and determine if lights stay on
“Eric isn’t the only one with some rust, we do get it.” Maybe you do get metal worm Keith but not in a 6 month old car that has sat in the dealer showroom all its life.
Do you know someone near Raleigh or even better fayetteville NC that knows about this stuff? I’m having similar issues on my ‘12 hybrid escalade and the dealer is telling me they can’t even tell me what’s all wrong until they start fixing it.
My Escalade is going crazy but the only problem is it'll go nuts then it's fine for 6 months lol...sucks cause you're always sitting around waiting for it to happen again. Mechanic told me whenever it does bring it straight there so he can check it out.
WOW. That is crazy Keith...first fuse pulled brings the truck back online. I would have been there for HOURS!!
Just had to think it out first . Give me a module exposed and vulnerable to the elements . If it were Euro I'd be under the carpets immediately 🙂
Your approach to diagnosis is amazing great job hard to learn that’s experience. And knowledge
Nice work Keith. Love CAN diagnostics
Nice one Keith. Like how you said start with the easiest and most logical approach.Excellant tip to remember 👍👍👍
Pure experience and logic there keith. Brilliant wee vid
Who gave this a thumbs down 😡😡😡. This is pure genius Maestro
2 jealous people
@@ssrbob - 2 A-holes!
Oh I think we know who it is....
People who don't understand it
Jason C. I agree. Pure genius! And a nice humble guy! How could anyone thumbs down. If i believed in Karma, it would one day cause the thumbs down people to have a car issue and the mech /tech would have 1/10th of Keith's ability and never stop paying to have the same problem fixed. (Keith would probably slap my fingers for this comment)
I’m watching and learning 😊... For me that was a master class Keith just want you to know that is much appreciated Sir 👍👍👍
Excellent, expedient diagnostic work. Thanks again for the sharing (experience).
Tech Tip (per Scanner Danner): Consider heat and vibration areas for guidance of fault locations.
I love how you let logic based on your knowledge and experience dictate your direction moving forward. I also love how you clearly describe exactly what thought process you use to come to a conclusion. Thank you for this invaluable information. It would take years of experience through trial and error to obtain the information you just shared in less than eight minutes. You are a diagnostic God.
HA Ijust came from watching the Jeep video with the PCI issues. I once did this very same diag, It was a busy day and I wasn't in the mood for anything. No start. Literally crawled under the truck unplugged the first box I saw back under the truck and then started it up. Shop owner's jaw dropped and I told him I would be back in a day to program that module. Didn't even plug in a scan tool, didn't even look to see what the module was for.
Perfect timing, I was in the middle of discussing how your geographic area factors into your diagnostic routine. Then Boom, you pop up with a video explaining how that factors in perfectly.
Excellent work as always Keith. Thanks for taking the time to walk us through. 👨🔧
Logic always wins! Getting the spare tire out will be more difficult than fixing the problem.
Doesn't get any better than this! Thanks Keith!
TakeCare,
Bill
WOW KEITH HOW DID YOU KNOW I REALLY NEEDED A VIDEO , OK MY STRATEGY IS TO QUESTION THE CUSTOMER , THEN CONFIRM THE COMPLAINT , VISUAL INSPECTION , SCAN CHECK THEN START GOING CRAZY . GOOD TO SEE SOME OF US STAY IN CONTROL AND REALLY REALLY LOOKING FORWARD TO A NEXT VIDEO MAN UP TO MY EYE BALLS IN NOTHING YOU KNOW YOU GOT MY VOTE MAN !
This stuff is gold, Jerry, gold! Pulling that fuse and re-scanning, what a smart way to narrow things down. This is one of my favourites, Keith.
Wow, your logic never ceases to amaze me :)
K.I.S.S. in the world of advanced diagnostics. Love the process Keith.
love your videos learning so much from your knowlodge you make it look so easy thanks
Thankyou for this priceless information!
Thank you, great process, keep your cool and think logically.
Always the logical approach Keith! That's why I enjoy your videos! Thanks for taking the time to share and explain 👍 done like a true pro!
When ever you talk about "process or logic" you have my interest. Having a direction based on experience and how to logically attack a diagnostic issue is invaluable to me, thank you.
Always my pleasure bud
Inspirational stuff. Thanks for taking the time to do these videos. Our industry seems to be moving away from making others look bad to make yourself look good and turning into a community. The old adage of it takes a village to raise a kid is turning into it takes a village to fix a car!
Your diagnostic approach to things has really helped me out thank you very much. Keep up the great videos👍
Great diagnosis and explanation Keith! Keeping it simple saves time.
You do more than most so you have a better idea than most thanks for the video
I'm glad you brought up how noisy these GM CAN systems are. I chased my tail on a G5 yrs ago after finding a bad trans module that was pulling down the CAN. To me, the signal was still 'bad'.. Out of desperation, I called the GM tech hotline. Guy asked, Do you have communication now? I said yes. He said Don't worry about it, that's just the way they are. Who knew?
Thanks for making this make sense for me, I have trouble sometimes on where to start and watching you has made this easier to grasp. Thanks for sharing your time, knowledge and videos, I truly appreciate everything you do!!
Always a learning experience watching your videos
Thanks for sharing Keith.love you diagnostic approach. you are the man!
Excellent advice sir. Well done. Thanks!
You have a technic for making jobs other garages wound not even look at seem simple...thanks for sharing
Sweet think smarter, keep it simple love it . Great work as usual .
super cool as ever and super smooth roll on to the next job where the rest of us will be getting not done that job yet much appreciated
Absolutly amazing man. U make it seem so simple and in a way it is if u can approach it like someone with your knowlege and experience but it take alot of years and dedication to gain thoses valuable tools. Your fun to watch man. Thanks
Thank you Dylan. I really believe it's all about the approach. The cars themselves are throwing us hints when they fail. We just have to listen logically sometimes and not get overwhelmed
Excellent diagnostics Amigo..
Taking notes from this video like always Keith..
You make me want to grow up and be like you😁😁😁😁😁
Thank you Keith. Good job. Have a blessed and safe week. You know I appreciate your videos brother.
You are to me what TST seminars are to you. Thank you for sharing.
Nice to see how you approached this Keith. very logical as always and right to the problem. Ignore the two muppets who gave a thumbs down. They didn't have their snickers today. :)
You sir, are in a league of your own. 👍👍
Using the same approach Eric has used. Look for the most likely or easiest modules to unplug first. Having a break out box that flashes all the active modules helps also. Nice work.
Very helpful video. I just discovered your channel and now it looks like I have some watching to do.
man i'm just itching for October when Steve is back on the Long Iland Exspress..He just as well move over to the States...He would have all the work he could handle just doing Land Rovers lol.jk..Great video Keith.
Cannot believe this guy only has 19k subs
Thank you very much Sir. I enjoyed your vid a lot. Regards from Caracas Venezuela
Thanks. Brother I love you video is 3:30 and I get of my bed i take my keys I went to my car I did exactly what you did and it works 🙏🙏🙏🙏. Thanks brother
WHEN I GROW UP I WANT TO BE LIKE YOU AND ROCCO.
Nice one well played! Quick and simple.
Excellent logical approach
Great video thanks brother. I like the way you think outside of the box. Great information and fix explanation. Keep up the great work see you in the next video thanks again brother
Agree that is a very nosy can signal,,, will have to keep that in mind on those cars
You are really in a "New Level Auto" diagnostics.
You should name it another level auto doc 😄.Great diag !
You found it fast,awesome! 👍
Smart diagnosis. Thanks for helping me think outside the box.. and into a new box of worms. Lol. Great job.
Simply brilliant.
As always great share Keith.
Exactly 2 terminating resistors 120 ohms each in parallel measuring 60 ohms on pins 6 and 14 on DLC. If good. 😉
Impressive, thanks for sharing!
Nice job again like always
PRODIGY New level Auto
My teacher
Thank you
PRODIGY New level Auto
From Nick Ayivor from London England UK 🇬🇧
That's impressive, straight to the issue and temporarily take it out of the equation. I have a 2010 awd Escalade w/Luxury package. I get the click no start quite a bit, I've narrowed it down to the battery current sensor, by wiggling around the ground cable and smaller gauge ground going to front of the frame from negative battery terminal (engine starts right up). I'm not sure which battery current sensor is supposed to be on my vehicle. There is a 1st design for bcm w/10 volt supply and 2nd design for bcm w/ 5 volt supply . 6.2L flexfuel L94 engine. The part number on the sensor now is for 10volt supply. I'm thinking maybe previous owner put the wrong one on. Yet dealerships cannot confirm which battery current sensor is supposed to be on my Escalade. I'd appreciate any advice you could give me. Thank you.
The man behind the magic.
Good one.
Thanks for sharing ❤ , where are you working?
Absolutely great information!
I have high voltage on the canbus over 8 volts with no comms to scan tool. I unplug the abs module, voltage stabilizes to 2.5v, tool connects and vehicle starts and runs normal. Different abs module installed and the exact same issue when plugged back in? What would induce voltage on the network when the abs is plugged in that is not the abs module? Could another module or wire down stream be effected by the abs module plug unplugging? Wiring and plug looks great to the abs. I can also connect to the network with the abs unplugged.
Thanks in advance.
Great job Keith.
Good video. Loved the logic. I guess my question is since it was shorted to power, did this keep the module awake and cause parasitic draw?
What were you using to display the pick on?
Awesome video.
i will miss your vids
If I get 25% as good as you, Keith, I'll be doing damn good! 🍻
Some days I feel like I'll never get a handle on modern vehicles. I got my ass handed to me today by a '00 Jaguar S-Type - had 17 transmission codes, so I figured a slam dunk chaffed wiring issue. Wiring diagrams were completely useless - all numbered with no chart telling what the numbers were. Fuses weren't labeled either! Typical Ford there. Found the owner's manual - fuse was good. Had to shut the camera off and stare at the transmission under the car for a bit. I needed to find where all the wires entered the tranny. BINGO - loose connector (bolt was finger tight!). Repaired the kinked loom (wasn't a problem, but it bugged me), sprayed DeoxIT all over both ends, plugged her back in and tightened the bolt. Now only 1 code - pressure switch A. Cleared and drove 3x, came back every time. Fairly certain it's the switch itself. I almost threw in the towel on this one out of frustration! Glad I stuck with it. Car has 100x more power than it did, and now shifts through all gears, instead of staying in 4th from idle to redline. Also fixed a misfire due to a half dead coil. A partial win.😁
I'll have to see what I can salvage for a video, lol. Lots of bad words flying today! 😬
Thanks for the video. 👍
Great Job Keith
Hello Keith, thank you for this video. i have a 2007 Escalade ESV and it is driving me nuts. i have nearly the same issue. When i will start the car, sometimes there is no crank, no click. When this happens, i can not read the dtc with a scan tool. There is no communication. When i disconnect the battery and wait about 10 min, reconnect the battery, most of the time it will start. But now always after a short time all the gauges will go mad like in your video. The transmission does not shift anymore etc. Can you give me some advice? Thnak you.
Keith was thinking of upgrading to this ads 625. Do you know how much updates or subscription is? Also I heard the color diagrams you show here come free with the subscription is that true? Looks like it almost has a pro demand type software built in?
Thanks. Brother I love you video is 3:30 and I get of my bed and I Did exactly why you say in a works
greate diagnosis.
Nice video Keith. See you at SS
Where are u located in nyc? My 08 Escalade has similar problems as the vid.
Was the fuse blown?
Very cool, 👍🏻
Nice use of brain power to narrow down the suspect modules. Rust never sleeps! Nice job!
Did you shoot for short to power instead of open ground, because of how high the voltage was?
following great work
Great video and very informative..! I have a 2007 Ext Cadillac..any chance that you can tell me why my backup/reverse lights stay on? I replaced the brake switch on the brake pedal...someone said the relay to the backup/reverse lights burned out in the ON position but I cant find the relay... someone else said that the relay to the backup/reverse lights is in that little BCM black box that your working on?
Much more to it than how you've been told. First there is a module within the transmission that will be sending a message on the Bussed network back to the body control module when placed in reverse. The body control module then makes determination that the relay in the underhood fuse block should be turned on ,at that same time it turns on the rearview camera via the left side fuse block. If the camera is not on then we concentrate outside the vehicle and around the underhood fuse block . You won't find a relay as it is built within the block . However there is a fuse out there labeled VEH/Backup. First step is to remove the fuse and determine if lights stay on
@@NewLevelAuto Awesome! Thank you so much for your input... much appreciated!
👍👍👍
Gracias hermanita
Amazing
“Eric isn’t the only one with some rust, we do get it.” Maybe you do get metal worm Keith but not in a 6 month old car that has sat in the dealer showroom all its life.
Well done sir, I’m assuming the split method would be next? Or pull power from other modules?
That's correct !👍
YOU ARE TRULY BAD ASZZZZ
👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
Wish you would do more videos.thanks for sharing
Mine is a 2007 Escalade and I have this issue stability service lights what’s the issue how can I fix it please help
Hope you have started writing your tst classes! I would sell my dog and get a truck to make it there lmbo
Bringin' it! 👍🏼
Do you know someone near Raleigh or even better fayetteville NC that knows about this stuff? I’m having similar issues on my ‘12 hybrid escalade and the dealer is telling me they can’t even tell me what’s all wrong until they start fixing it.
My Escalade is going crazy but the only problem is it'll go nuts then it's fine for 6 months lol...sucks cause you're always sitting around waiting for it to happen again. Mechanic told me whenever it does bring it straight there so he can check it out.
Спасибо.
Don't worry she is in good hands....
Thumbs up crew 👍👍👍👍👍
How do I find someone that does these types of diagnosis on 2007 Cadillac Escalade in CA?
What part of Cali?