Good explanation about the resistor. I learned from other videos that the most likely reason the resistor fails is the blower motor. It seems that Honda produced a LOT of faulty blower motors. A bearing goes bad and creates mechanical resistance as the fan turns. This mechanical resistance causes the fan to use more electricity to turn & that excessive current overheats the electrical resistors. Then the solder melts and the point of contact (inside the electrical resistor) fails just like you showed. The simple solution is to remove the cabin air filter, reach into the fan, and spin it. If it spins freely for a moment after you move your hand the motor may still be good. If the fan offers resistance, especially if it won't spin freely at all, the motor is bad (like mine was today). No matter how many times you change them, if the motor is using excess electricity because it's mechanically hindered, the electrical resistors will keep on failing prematurely. While the cabin filter is out, unless it is almost new, go ahead & replace it. A stopped-up cabin filter is the same problem as a dirty air filter in your furnace/AC in your house. If air can't get through freely, it inhibits the heating or cooling. It also strains the fan creating the too-much-current (& HEAT) problem in the resistor that controls the fan speed. Then you're back to the only-works-on-high situation. I was able to replace blower fan, the resistor, and the cabin filter for about $160 @ Autozone.
My resister broke back in 2019 and for various reasons, I haven't replaced it yet. Pretty sure my blower motor crapped out today (no longer works even on 4), so I guess that means it's finally time to replace them 😅😆 Thank you for this video showing me where to find it and how to replace it myself. 😊
@@redsfavs829 COVID was one of the reasons I didn't fix mine too 😆And it turned out I blew the fuse for the blower motor as well 😲 So once I replaced all three parts (motor, resister, and fuse), my fan is back to working at all four speeds again 😄 It was a very easy fix (though a tight squeeze under the dashboard) that cost a little over $100 to do myself. 😊
Great video. BTW what kind of tester is that? I don't see a ground connected, maybe the ground connector is out of image. Either way I love the simplicity of that model I want that one : ) Can you tell me the make and model of that blue tester? Outstanding lesson professor.👍
The tester is called "Power Probe" its my goto tool for doing 12v electrical diagnostics. As I walk to the car you will see a cable/wire/on the ground. What u don't see if that cable is connected to the battery. That supplies the tester with a Positive and Negative connection. When using the tool, you can probe a terminal, the tool will tell you if that terminal is grounded or has positive voltage. Additionally you can use the tool to send power or ground to the tip. This is very useful when testing components. It's available from Amazon I think for a 250.00 There are also cheaper ones that are now available. I use my power probe so much I'm on my 5th one since they came out. It's one of my top 10 tools.
Thanks for the video! I like the root cause analysis. A couple of questions for you: 1. What tool is that you used to check the switch voltages? 2. Any idea how the resistor pack got fried in the first place? I saw a commenter on another video say that they replaced their resistor pack, which fixed the issue, but then the issue came back after a few weeks. They said they ended up having to replace both the resistor pack and the blower motor itself - I guess the motor was causing the resistor pack to fail somehow?
There are a few reasons why the register pack fried.. And yes one of those reason can be an excess current draw from the motor. I used this.... www.amazon.com/dp/B005MVB3S0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fab_zKuCFbYP8Y4RK
Quick question. If my AC only works on 4, and even then, it makes this weird noise on occasion, would that be the Resistor Module? I would much appreciate it if you answered. Thanks.
I don't really follow,.. AC is just the cold air. Blower fan is what moves the air. If "4" is the high speed,.. then usually yes. The reason is in most cases On the highest speed, power by-passes the resistor pack. If there is a weird noise, that noise will have to be diagnosed. There are too many variables to try to help pin point a "weird" noise from the internet.
It's been a year, so you may've already fixed this, but here's what I've noticed from my Fit. My fan has only worked on 4 for a couple years and more recently started consistently making a mechanical grinding sound. Pretty sure my blower motor itself died today because now the fan doesn't work at all. So if you've replaced the resister and it still makes the noise, check the motor itself because you may need to also replace it (if you haven't already made these fixes 😊)
When you hooked up the probe, and went through the switches, were you just testing for continuity with the chassis? I was able to see similar behavior when testing continuity with the switch position, but there was only one of the 4 constantly showing 12V while the others showed 0, no matter which switch position I selected
I cant remember exactly.. so what I'm gonna say is generally how it works... Most of the time power is went to the motor. And the "ground" is what is switch, after the power went through the register pack. So you want to measure the drop in voltage on each wire with each selection of the switch.
@@Steve4x4 I see -- I think I'm in good shape then. So the 12V I was registering from a single one of those is the power supply -- which looks good -- and the other 3 were showing good connections
I had my blower resistor go out on me. I bought a new one (70$) and it went out again. I took it out…. Soldered it… worked a couple days and it’s out again…. My blower motor doesn’t make any crazy sound… but I’m going to change it to see if maybe it is sending some kind of extra current to it and burning it out 😓🔥
I'm sure you can. But, it makes alot of heat. Which is why its always placed in the blower air stream. You would have to use a very high temp solder. For the price of that type of resistor pack its really unnecessary repair. They are cheap enough to justify replacing it.
There are alot of things that could cause that. #1 would be the charging system. If the voltage from the alternator isn't constant ypu can get that effect. But it would cause everything else to vary too. Check to see if the high beans do the same, and the dome light. Bad ground connection could cause that. And yes blower mtr could as well. But this required diagnostics than just throwing parts at it.
what if i have no power on any of the three modules... except for the power module? does that mean i need to replace my switch? if so do you know how to do that :) I also just put a new resistor motor in and within a week it over heated.... it gets really hot
resistor block is very simple circuit so it resist and it gets hot thats why its placed near blower, so in video you told that the blower motor works on 4 and you said blower motor is out of equation but thats where i disagree, you see the question is why the solder on resistor block become undone ? its because the blower motor is not spinning faster than it should be thats why the resistor block gets hot and when it gets hot the solder will be melt because the blower motor is not spinning fast like it should
You make a good argument. And it's certainly a possibility. However if that's the case here, then it wouldn't take long for the new resister to fail again. Thus, the customer would bring it back. Which she has not for that issue. I have since seen this car for other visits. 3years ago I did this and the blower is still working.
@@Steve4x4 weather may play huge part for this but that have been our case we tried to use new resistor block the solder melt because of fan motor but then we live in PH maybe the blower motor have built dirt easily inside it and it already happens 3 times same model between 09-13 and you will know that the solder melt when you heard small tik sound and the fan motor switch from 1 to 3 does not work
I fixed my resistor and it worked for maybe 12 hours on all speeds, got in my car tnis morning and it didnt work anymore (still works on 4) any idea what the next option could be?
@@bennyr9570 at this point I would verify what is actually the root of the problem before throwing parts at it. I would check for power and ground at the blower motor connecter. If u have good power and ground - then the motor is bad. This might be the point where u pay for diagnostics.
As private person yes you can get away with that. Just throw it in and see if that fixes it. if your wrong, it no big deal. As a shop you can't. What if you are wrong? You tell the customer it's the resistor, cause the blower only works on high. But after you replace the resistor you find out that the switch was bad. Now you have to call the customer back and sell them a switch. The customer will start to lose confidence in you. As a shop your are paid to figure out what is the root cause of the problem and what will solve.
Good explanation about the resistor. I learned from other videos that the most likely reason the resistor fails is the blower motor. It seems that Honda produced a LOT of faulty blower motors. A bearing goes bad and creates mechanical resistance as the fan turns. This mechanical resistance causes the fan to use more electricity to turn & that excessive current overheats the electrical resistors. Then the solder melts and the point of contact (inside the electrical resistor) fails just like you showed.
The simple solution is to remove the cabin air filter, reach into the fan, and spin it. If it spins freely for a moment after you move your hand the motor may still be good. If the fan offers resistance, especially if it won't spin freely at all, the motor is bad (like mine was today). No matter how many times you change them, if the motor is using excess electricity because it's mechanically hindered, the electrical resistors will keep on failing prematurely.
While the cabin filter is out, unless it is almost new, go ahead & replace it. A stopped-up cabin filter is the same problem as a dirty air filter in your furnace/AC in your house. If air can't get through freely, it inhibits the heating or cooling. It also strains the fan creating the too-much-current (& HEAT) problem in the resistor that controls the fan speed. Then you're back to the only-works-on-high situation.
I was able to replace blower fan, the resistor, and the cabin filter for about $160 @ Autozone.
Thank you for this video. My 2012 A/C is only working on high. Issue started today.
My resister broke back in 2019 and for various reasons, I haven't replaced it yet. Pretty sure my blower motor crapped out today (no longer works even on 4), so I guess that means it's finally time to replace them 😅😆 Thank you for this video showing me where to find it and how to replace it myself. 😊
Mine also stopped working except on 4 in very late 2019 and I haven't addressed it yet (thanks Covid!). I hope your repair has worked out!
@@redsfavs829 COVID was one of the reasons I didn't fix mine too 😆And it turned out I blew the fuse for the blower motor as well 😲 So once I replaced all three parts (motor, resister, and fuse), my fan is back to working at all four speeds again 😄 It was a very easy fix (though a tight squeeze under the dashboard) that cost a little over $100 to do myself. 😊
Thank you so much for the wonderful video! I fixed my car today!
Thanks a ton. You probably saved me a couple hours and a huge headache with this video!
Thanks so much for this, I was going to take the car to the shop.
Great video. BTW what kind of tester is that? I don't see a ground connected, maybe the ground connector is out of image. Either way I love the simplicity of that model I want that one : ) Can you tell me the make and model of that blue tester? Outstanding lesson professor.👍
The tester is called "Power Probe" its my goto tool for doing 12v electrical diagnostics. As I walk to the car you will see a cable/wire/on the ground. What u don't see if that cable is connected to the battery. That supplies the tester with a Positive and Negative connection. When using the tool, you can probe a terminal, the tool will tell you if that terminal is grounded or has positive voltage. Additionally you can use the tool to send power or ground to the tip. This is very useful when testing components.
It's available from Amazon I think for a 250.00
There are also cheaper ones that are now available. I use my power probe so much I'm on my 5th one since they came out. It's one of my top 10 tools.
Thanks for the video! I like the root cause analysis. A couple of questions for you:
1. What tool is that you used to check the switch voltages?
2. Any idea how the resistor pack got fried in the first place? I saw a commenter on another video say that they replaced their resistor pack, which fixed the issue, but then the issue came back after a few weeks. They said they ended up having to replace both the resistor pack and the blower motor itself - I guess the motor was causing the resistor pack to fail somehow?
There are a few reasons why the register pack fried..
And yes one of those reason can be an excess current draw from the motor.
I used this....
www.amazon.com/dp/B005MVB3S0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fab_zKuCFbYP8Y4RK
Quick question. If my AC only works on 4, and even then, it makes this weird noise on occasion, would that be the Resistor Module? I would much appreciate it if you answered. Thanks.
I don't really follow,..
AC is just the cold air. Blower fan is what moves the air. If "4" is the high speed,.. then usually yes. The reason is in most cases On the highest speed, power by-passes the resistor pack. If there is a weird noise, that noise will have to be diagnosed. There are too many variables to try to help pin point a "weird" noise from the internet.
It's been a year, so you may've already fixed this, but here's what I've noticed from my Fit. My fan has only worked on 4 for a couple years and more recently started consistently making a mechanical grinding sound. Pretty sure my blower motor itself died today because now the fan doesn't work at all. So if you've replaced the resister and it still makes the noise, check the motor itself because you may need to also replace it (if you haven't already made these fixes 😊)
When you hooked up the probe, and went through the switches, were you just testing for continuity with the chassis? I was able to see similar behavior when testing continuity with the switch position, but there was only one of the 4 constantly showing 12V while the others showed 0, no matter which switch position I selected
I cant remember exactly.. so what I'm gonna say is generally how it works...
Most of the time power is went to the motor. And the "ground" is what is switch, after the power went through the register pack.
So you want to measure the drop in voltage on each wire with each selection of the switch.
@@Steve4x4 I see -- I think I'm in good shape then. So the 12V I was registering from a single one of those is the power supply -- which looks good -- and the other 3 were showing good connections
Just got finished, worked like a charm! Thanks for the help.
I had my blower resistor go out on me. I bought a new one (70$) and it went out again. I took it out…. Soldered it… worked a couple days and it’s out again…. My blower motor doesn’t make any crazy sound… but I’m going to change it to see if maybe it is sending some kind of extra current to it and burning it out 😓🔥
Take a hard look at the connector to the blower motor too. Look for signs or arcing/loose terminals.
Can you re-solder back to it's place the broken resister?
I'm sure you can. But, it makes alot of heat. Which is why its always placed in the blower air stream. You would have to use a very high temp solder. For the price of that type of resistor pack its really unnecessary repair. They are cheap enough to justify replacing it.
Would a bad blower motor resistor cause the fan speed to vary during driving? I notice the speed changing when I'm on or off the gas
There are alot of things that could cause that.
#1 would be the charging system. If the voltage from the alternator isn't constant ypu can get that effect. But it would cause everything else to vary too. Check to see if the high beans do the same, and the dome light.
Bad ground connection could cause that.
And yes blower mtr could as well. But this required diagnostics than just throwing parts at it.
what if i have no power on any of the three modules... except for the power module? does that mean i need to replace my switch? if so do you know how to do that :) I also just put a new resistor motor in and within a week it over heated.... it gets really hot
I have power going to the blower motor but that is it..... none in the other modules
resistor block is very simple circuit so it resist and it gets hot thats why its placed near blower, so in video you told that the blower motor works on 4 and you said blower motor is out of equation but thats where i disagree, you see the question is why the solder on resistor block become undone ? its because the blower motor is not spinning faster than it should be thats why the resistor block gets hot and when it gets hot the solder will be melt because the blower motor is not spinning fast like it should
You make a good argument. And it's certainly a possibility. However if that's the case here, then it wouldn't take long for the new resister to fail again. Thus, the customer would bring it back. Which she has not for that issue. I have since seen this car for other visits. 3years ago I did this and the blower is still working.
@@Steve4x4 weather may play huge part for this but that have been our case we tried to use new resistor block the solder melt because of fan motor but then we live in PH maybe the blower motor have built dirt easily inside it and it already happens 3 times same model between 09-13 and you will know that the solder melt when you heard small tik sound and the fan motor switch from 1 to 3 does not work
I fixed my resistor and it worked for maybe 12 hours on all speeds, got in my car tnis morning and it didnt work anymore (still works on 4) any idea what the next option could be?
Most likely the motor... or the switch on the control head.
@@Steve4x4 thank you! Do you recommend replacing bothv
@@bennyr9570 at this point I would verify what is actually the root of the problem before throwing parts at it.
I would check for power and ground at the blower motor connecter. If u have good power and ground - then the motor is bad.
This might be the point where u pay for diagnostics.
@@Steve4x4 thank u so much for taking the time out of ur day to respond i wish you the best lets hope its nothing serious have a good one brotha
Thanks, this is exactly my honda jazz 2009 's issue. BTW, do not try to fix it, just buy a new one as tis is printed on tht part.
If my blower only work when I hit it what does that mean
possibilities are
The blower motor is bad.
Electrical connector is bad
Register pack is bad
Register pack connection is bad.
Too much testing. Just replace the resistor module if your fan only works on high. KISS
As private person yes you can get away with that. Just throw it in and see if that fixes it. if your wrong, it no big deal.
As a shop you can't. What if you are wrong? You tell the customer it's the resistor, cause the blower only works on high. But after you replace the resistor you find out that the switch was bad. Now you have to call the customer back and sell them a switch. The customer will start to lose confidence in you. As a shop your are paid to figure out what is the root cause of the problem and what will solve.
@@Steve4x4 Agree
Get on with blower motor for cs Christ sake bls bla bla
Why? There's nothing wrong with the blower motor.