Great how to video!! Gave me the confidence to order and install XT brakes on my mountain bike. Thanks for the tutorial and also the how to bleed shimano brakes video.
Brilliant! I got a new set of Shimano front brakes and calipers and the brake hose was too long. Followed your instructions and they worked like a charm. Thanks Clint
Thanks for making this video. It helped me understand it much better. BTW, the manual also states to apply premium grease to the threads and the olive.
Hi Clint, I am gonna to mount the XT brakes on my fantastic Trek Fully MTB! I will remove the Avid Elixier brakes which are now very hygroscopic and biking with them really doesn't make fun anymore! I think your two videos, Cut, Shorten, Re-install and bleed Shimano Hydraulic Brakes are the best I could find now. I didn't find anything comparing in german. Nevertheless, I will go and mount my XT brakes, I'm crossing my fingers for myself! Regards from Germany, Koblenz :-) Dagmar
For the front brakes the line can be pretty much any length as long as as it reaches the levers because the handle bars always move with the front wheel.
Nice vid, thanks! I've got a really spongy feel to my rear brake (Avid Elixir R with 180 mm rotor). I'm thinking about upgrading to steel braided lines b/c even with several bleeds the rear sucks. Front is OK. I've determined that the rubber line must be the main cause for the spongy feel.
Great video. I am installing the same Shimano XT brakes on my Specialized Stumpjumper FSR this weekend. Hoping I don't need to cut the lines but if I do, I now know how.
This video is pretty straightforward. The instructions almost make me feel as if hydraulic brakes are low maintenance. I had some Hayes and their instructions were such a pain -- felt like the I was doing the hokey-pokey.
Agree. I felt I needed to comment b/c most recreational users probably don't want to use hydraulic brakes due to maintenance. After watching your video I bled my entry-level Shimano brakes without drama. There is a learning curve but successful bleeding makes me want for more hydraulic -- especially Shimano.
And the bike shop makes it seem like a complex operation. I install swage fittings at work, on steel process lines all the time, and you've shown me that is all there is to it. Just like the brand we use, the tightening nut does the swaging. Thanks - easier than cable brakes.
I dIdn't have a vice, so I wrapped the tube with two layers of duct tape and held it with in place with pliers in my left hand. Using the flat handle of a wrench in the web of my right hand, I was able to grip the pliers with my fingers and press the pin into place. This method is useful if you're doing this in your bedroom, but there's a few drawbacks: 1) success is dependent on your grip strength, and 2) you run the risk of deforming the cable. On the first attempt, the tube bent, and flattened a little where the pliers had gripped it. However, this technique worked perfectly for me on the second try - no deformations at all.
Great video, thanks for taking the time to educate us, can you show a picture of the type of mineral oil you use and where can i buy Shimano Hydraulic Brake Cables. Thanks
Thank you for this clear and straightforward video. I am about to do the same thing on my bike and your instructions are very helpful. I wonder yet that no drop(s) of mineral oil spills out of the open end of the hose once you cut it and even move it to your bench vise ... Are the brakes not pre-filled with mineral oil when you buy them?
They are prefilled. The reason not much flows out when you got the hose it’s just because there’s not any airflow that can allow the oil to come out the end.
Thanks for posting. I have been wondering how to do this for ages. I also did not know about he mineral fluid and being a motorcyclist I am sure I would of used DOT fluid. I am also interested to know whether you can get an open ended torque wrench as all mine only can be used on sockets.
they are called crowfoot adapters, basically a spanner head of certain sizes. google image search "crowfoot adapter for torque wrench" to see what they look like
You explain things so well and so clearly. Can I ask, I have deore brakeset on my Trance 2015. If I were to upgrade to SLX or XT, would it be ok to just leave the current brake housing in place and do what you did here? Also, would it be similar procedure at the caliper end?
yes, you most likely should be able to use the same brake lines on SLX and XT brakes if you upgrade. if you're asking about the hose at the caliper end, you would never cut on that end. The hoses are designed so that you only cut on the brake lever end.
Great video! Very clear. I recently upgraded to SLX brakes and when the arrived in the mail the levers were reversed, i.e. front lever on the right, rear on the left. I want to switch the hoses and the sizes will then be correct. I wont have to do any cutting but i wondered if i will need to bleed the brakes afterwards. Thanks
Sometimes you don't need to bleed if you are careful. I've even cut a hose an not needed to bleed. But the bleeding process is so simple that it's not much of an issue if you do have to.
Clint Gibbs Thanks for the reply. Related to my previous question, would I need to replace the olive if all I'm doing is pulling the hose and inserting in opposite lever? I'm unsure if that would damage it.
You leave just a little bit of housing sticking up from the bleed blocks @ 6:28 however if you leave an excess of the usual 15mm (Lenth of the pin) this means the pin will go in best, by allowing the housing to expand evenly around it and the tension holds it firmly in place. In your example, the pin will expand mostly the inner wall of the hose and the block will be creating tension/spring in the outer part of the hose around the pin, so, when the blocks come off you might find that tension then releases as the outer layers expand, leaving the pin not as firmly in place. Of course, the difference is not really going to be notable... Although I'd like to think it would be best practice especially in a bike service shop :)
Hey Clint. I liked your video. It was very clear and easy to follow. I have a question for you, if you don't mind? I'm switching my lines from "moto" to bicycle and the housing seems to be stuck/jammed in the lever body. I reefed on it pretty hard to no avail. Any ideas? They are Saint 810's. I've been running either Magura or Shimnao forever without trouble... Thanks, Derek
If you have the housing bolt all the way out, which I'm sure you do, then it can take some force. The doughnut gets jammed inside the leaver body. Try shaking the housing back and forth while you pull on it.
Nice video Clint, I am getting a pair of zee brakes is this pretty much same procedure ? I would also like to put braided hoses on them, can u make a video on how to change hoses ? Thanks
Yes, the process should be the same. As far as changing hoses, it will be like the video I show except for removing the hose from the caliper. There is just one bolt (aka the banjo bolt) holding the hose to the caliper and there should be an o-ring on each side.
I have the same Anthem as you Clint,. On this bike though, how does one route outer cables shifters or outer brake into the frame of this bike, does it require a thin tube as a guide or could one just remove the old inners first then use the old outers as a guide to feed in new inners then take out the old outers with the new inners as guide to put the new outers? all these without using any other tube that one would have to get from a hardware store as a guide? Secondly, we know you do get the olive with the new brakes but, what if you but a fairly-used brakes or where do you olives and the other connector insert?
Hey, the little silver insert you insert into the hose when its in the vice, is that the one that was there before? or do you have to buy them seperate? im about to buy xt brakes so im guessing i will need to shorten so do i need to buy that insert aswell? or? if so whats the exact name and where from? thanks
+Mathew Pugh If you buy XT brakes that weren't meant to be on a retail bike than they will be in OEM packaging and not bubble wrap. The front brake includes the bleed block and the hose holder. Each set comes with the needle and the olive. The clue lies in the lengths.
Thanks for the great vid! One question though: I have to replace my current line which is filled with oil. Is it the best to push the oil out from the bottom to the top (in the funnel) or just let gravity do its work and let it come out at the bottom?
I've done both but the gravity method is a lot easier. The downside is for the rear brake you have to take the caliper off the bike and let it hang down lower. For the front brake the gravity method is very easy.
Great video Clint. Do you have to replace the olive any time you detach the brake lines from the lever or only if you are shortening the hose? I ask because I got a pair of brakes that came Euro style. I switched the lines and one seems to work great, but the other seems to be leaking. I'm thinking it's either I need to redo the olive and pin every time or maybe I didn't tighten enough (i.e., 8 newtons)? Any thoughts appreciated.
+Blake Durtsche no, you do not need to change the olive every time you remove the cable from the lever. It sounds like you just need to tighten the bolt the holds the cable in the lever. It's pretty finicky. I've had times where I thought it was tight enough but it leaked a little bit. Just taking it a tad more.
Hi! Thank you for the video.. I am trying to install hoses for r8070 caliper and grx shifters. On the shifter the olive and hose goes in and I screw the bolt inwards. It screws away, but doesnt seem to tighten? And on the rear...the olive and hose seem a lot tighter...the bolt screws in and starts to get tight, with maybe one third of the screwed surface left to tighten... Does this make sense? Any ideas, what I could be doing wrong? Thank you!
Hi Clint, great work on the video! Quick question. I just installed my first set of hydraulics (SLX). I noticed I have a slight twist in one of my cables (at the lever). Is it possible to loosen the bolt enough to remove the twist without having to completely remove the hose then bleed the brakes? Thanks!
Most likely you can. When that happens I remove the lever and twist it but sometimes it gets twisted in the opposite direction. If you loosen the bolts going into the lever as little as possible you will probably be able to turn the cable without any hydraulic fluid leaking out. Let me know how it goes.
Clint Gibbs I undid the bolt as much as I could and eventually the hose spun itself around into the right position without appearing to have lost any hydraulic fluid. May have originally over-tightened the bolts on the levers a little but everything seems to be fine; hoses are now untwisted and no leaks. Thanks for the assist! :)
great video! need some advice, I need to detach my brake hose from my rear brake lever because i need to thread it through a new frame. do i need to replace the olives or can i just replace the hose in the lever?
Clint, there's a much easier way to trim the line without having to bleed the entire system, just the top portion. You don't even have to remove the brake pads just make sure everything at the bottom end, brakes and rotors, are covered with some rags incase there's some spillage. When you cut the line at the top, everything else you did gets done the same, just cut the line, attach it back to the lever housing and tighten. Remove the bleed cover, attach the cup and add mineral oil, pump the lever several times and what ever air is at the top end of the braking system, will come out. Make sure your cables are propped up so that oil doesn't leak downward after you cut the lines. Also, make sure that they're paying attention to the "o" ring that's part of the bleed screw or screw cap and that it doesn't fall off…and you're done.
Hey Clint, thanks for another great video. Let me know... if i dont want to cut, just want to switch left housing to the right lever and right housing to the left lever... would i need new olives? TY.
Hey Clint nice video as always. I just purchased some Shimano XT brakes and was wondering if I needed to have shimano rotors or will the stock rotors work....it's a Specialized hardrock 29er with tektro hydraulic disk brakes....160mm front and back. Thanks
I"ve read and heard frequently that this procedures can be succesfully accomplished without bleeding the brakes. What are your thoughts, Clint? Thanks so much, great great video.
Clint Gibbs Thanks you for your response. Truly appreciated. One more ? if you don't mind: how do you tell if you were careful enough and have to bleed or not-bleed, would it be based upon feel of the brakes? Again, thank you so much, looking forward to exploring your channel more. This is the end of my first full season of MTB, I'm in love!!!!
+Justin Kamerman after you cut a hose keep it up so fluid does not drip out and quickly install the cable inserts. Also there are yellow plugs that you can plug into the brake levers to keep fluid from dripping out of those as a temporary measure before installing the hose. Just move quickly so minimal fluid drips out. If it does don't worry about it and just do the bleed.
Do i have to thread in the bolt all the way in before it hits 8 nm torque ??? In my case.. my bolt was already tight that i think its already been threaded in about that NM but it hasnt threaded all the way in
You don't need to drain the fluid before cutting. In fact there are times where minimal bleeding is necessary if you can keep fluid from leaking out after you cut the line.
i've got ape hanger bars on an xl frame so i need longer hose than come with most sets, is there a process that describes this operation, buying hose adding length?
Hey Clint, nice vid , I am currently running Shimano M210 hydraulics but want to upgrade to SLX, do I have to use the hose that comes with the SLX or can I just use the hose thats on my current set up since they are already cut to the length that I need. Thanks in advance.
No, don't drain the lines before doing that. In fact I have been lucky on occasions and have been able to cut lines and reinstall without having to bleed.
Very clear instructions there, one of the best "how to"videos I've watched. Thank you. Over to bleeding...
Without this video I could not have upgraded my brake levers, very clear instructions and no unnecessary jargon. Very helpful video. 👍🏻
Great how to video!! Gave me the confidence to order and install XT brakes on my mountain bike. Thanks for the tutorial and also the how to bleed shimano brakes video.
Brilliant! I got a new set of Shimano front brakes and calipers and the brake hose was too long. Followed your instructions and they worked like a charm. Thanks Clint
Thanks again for making such a great easy to follow video.. You've saved me so much time and money with your videos!!
best video I've seen yet on this subject
Terrific video! Clear, concise, and well-organized. Many thanks!
Thanks for making this video. It helped me understand it much better. BTW, the manual also states to apply premium grease to the threads and the olive.
Great vid. Precise, clear, and easy to follow. Thanks.
7:13 is where I was lost now I am found thanks to you. Will install my new brake levers in a few days when I get mineral fluid.
Superb video Clint - made light work of my new brake installation - in tandem with your other vid on brake bleeding. Top stuff
awesome ! thank you for taking to time to show us how it's done. looking forward to your review of the new bike !
Excellent job. You are really good at explaining steps well.
Hi Clint, I am gonna to mount the XT brakes on my fantastic Trek Fully MTB! I will remove the Avid Elixier brakes which are now very hygroscopic and biking with them really doesn't make fun anymore!
I think your two videos, Cut, Shorten, Re-install and bleed Shimano Hydraulic Brakes are the best I could find now. I didn't find anything comparing in german. Nevertheless, I will go and mount my XT brakes, I'm crossing my fingers for myself!
Regards from Germany, Koblenz :-) Dagmar
Thanks for making this, clear and informative, very happy i found this.
Best video tutorials. saves so much money doing this stuff yourself.
For the front brakes the line can be pretty much any length as long as as it reaches the levers because the handle bars always move with the front wheel.
clear video thank you for your time and effort making it; we appriciate.
Awesome video. Very clear and easy to follow instructions. Thank you.
Blimey mate, I wondered what those plastic blocks are that came with my bike! Now I know, top work fella.
Clear and concise. Thanks for making the video.
Nice vid, thanks! I've got a really spongy feel to my rear brake (Avid Elixir R with 180 mm rotor). I'm thinking about upgrading to steel braided lines b/c even with several bleeds the rear sucks. Front is OK. I've determined that the rubber line must be the main cause for the spongy feel.
Excellent video and attention to detail. Well done!
Really well done. Super clear and concise. Thanks so much.
Thank you for the very clear and informative video! I wish all the how-to videos would be on this level :-)
Great content mate. Cheers. Just what i needed, took me a while to find but when i got there, bingo.
Great vid, really helpful, didnt think itd be this easy, thanks
Great job! Thanks for your help Clint!!
Very considerate (and thus excellent) how-to. Thanks. :)
Thanks for that it's clear and instructive
Excellent vid. Great help. Im a noob and have had to learn everything from scratch.
Very well done video. Thank you for posting this.
good clear instructions CG.
great informative video;it's been a while since I did any maintenance
Very good mechanic, thanks Clint.
Great video. I am installing the same Shimano XT brakes on my Specialized Stumpjumper FSR this weekend. Hoping I don't need to cut the lines but if I do, I now know how.
Thanks Clint! great instruction, really helped out ;) ;)
I got stuck at olive,i was looking for a tool online lol.Thanks Clint !
been a huge help. thanks clint
Great Video👍 that really helped a lot. Thanks!
This video is pretty straightforward. The instructions almost make me feel as if hydraulic brakes are low maintenance. I had some Hayes and their instructions were such a pain -- felt like the I was doing the hokey-pokey.
+Peter Michael XT brakes are so easy to work on and very low maintenance.
Agree. I felt I needed to comment b/c most recreational users probably don't want to use hydraulic brakes due to maintenance. After watching your video I bled my entry-level Shimano brakes without drama. There is a learning curve but successful bleeding makes me want for more hydraulic -- especially Shimano.
Great tutorial. Much apricated.
And the bike shop makes it seem like a complex operation. I install swage fittings at work, on steel process lines all the time, and you've shown me that is all there is to it. Just like the brand we use, the tightening nut does the swaging. Thanks - easier than cable brakes.
just got my new brakes and go figure, they're too long..lol..nice video clint..thanks..God bless
Clear explanation. Thank you.
Thank you so much! i need to do this. I just need to buy all the parts first
I dIdn't have a vice, so I wrapped the tube with two layers of duct tape and held it with in place with pliers in my left hand. Using the flat handle of a wrench in the web of my right hand, I was able to grip the pliers with my fingers and press the pin into place. This method is useful if you're doing this in your bedroom, but there's a few drawbacks: 1) success is dependent on your grip strength, and 2) you run the risk of deforming the cable. On the first attempt, the tube bent, and flattened a little where the pliers had gripped it. However, this technique worked perfectly for me on the second try - no deformations at all.
Nice. Concise and clear.
Great video, thanks for taking the time to educate us, can you show a picture of the type of mineral oil you use and where can i buy Shimano Hydraulic Brake Cables. Thanks
Thanks ! Defintely no need for a shop when I upgrade.
ty very much mate! have a great day!
Thank you... This is very helpfull for me
Very useful. Many thanks buddy.
great video man
Buena...
Very nicely explained 👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
Thank you for this clear and straightforward video. I am about to do the same thing on my bike and your instructions are very helpful. I wonder yet that no drop(s) of mineral oil spills out of the open end of the hose once you cut it and even move it to your bench vise ... Are the brakes not pre-filled with mineral oil when you buy them?
They are prefilled. The reason not much flows out when you got the hose it’s just because there’s not any airflow that can allow the oil to come out the end.
thank you! helped me a lot :)
Nice video! tnx for sharing
Great video.. 1 question though... How do I remove an olive that is stuck and in the level? the cable came out without it... 🤷♂️
Great video thank you 🙏🏻
Thanks for posting. I have been wondering how to do this for ages. I also did not know about he mineral fluid and being a motorcyclist I am sure I would of used DOT fluid. I am also interested to know whether you can get an open ended torque wrench as all mine only can be used on sockets.
they are called crowfoot adapters, basically a spanner head of certain sizes.
google image search "crowfoot adapter for torque wrench" to see what they look like
You explain things so well and so clearly. Can I ask, I have deore brakeset on my Trance 2015. If I were to upgrade to SLX or XT, would it be ok to just leave the current brake housing in place and do what you did here? Also, would it be similar procedure at the caliper end?
yes, you most likely should be able to use the same brake lines on SLX and XT brakes if you upgrade. if you're asking about the hose at the caliper end, you would never cut on that end. The hoses are designed so that you only cut on the brake lever end.
great video. thanks for putting towel on bike so we can easily see what you are doing.
Thanks for the helpful video! Does the other side of the hose where it connects with the caliper connect in the same way?
No, that side is a banjo bolt
Great video! Very clear. I recently upgraded to SLX brakes and when the arrived in the mail the levers were reversed, i.e. front lever on the right, rear on the left. I want to switch the hoses and the sizes will then be correct. I wont have to do any cutting but i wondered if i will need to bleed the brakes afterwards. Thanks
Sometimes you don't need to bleed if you are careful. I've even cut a hose an not needed to bleed. But the bleeding process is so simple that it's not much of an issue if you do have to.
Clint Gibbs Thanks for the reply. Related to my previous question, would I need to replace the olive if all I'm doing is pulling the hose and inserting in opposite lever? I'm unsure if that would damage it.
No. Olive should be fine. You really only replace it when you have to cut the hose.
You leave just a little bit of housing sticking up from the bleed blocks @ 6:28 however if you leave an excess of the usual 15mm (Lenth of the pin) this means the pin will go in best, by allowing the housing to expand evenly around it and the tension holds it firmly in place.
In your example, the pin will expand mostly the inner wall of the hose and the block will be creating tension/spring in the outer part of the hose around the pin, so, when the blocks come off you might find that tension then releases as the outer layers expand, leaving the pin not as firmly in place.
Of course, the difference is not really going to be notable... Although I'd like to think it would be best practice especially in a bike service shop :)
Hey Clint. I liked your video. It was very clear and easy to follow. I have a question for you, if you don't mind? I'm switching my lines from "moto" to bicycle and the housing seems to be stuck/jammed in the lever body. I reefed on it pretty hard to no avail. Any ideas? They are Saint 810's. I've been running either Magura or Shimnao forever without trouble...
Thanks, Derek
If you have the housing bolt all the way out, which I'm sure you do, then it can take some force. The doughnut gets jammed inside the leaver body. Try shaking the housing back and forth while you pull on it.
Nice video Clint, I am getting a pair of zee brakes is this pretty much same procedure ? I would also like to put braided hoses on them, can u make a video on how to change hoses ? Thanks
Yes, the process should be the same. As far as changing hoses, it will be like the video I show except for removing the hose from the caliper. There is just one bolt (aka the banjo bolt) holding the hose to the caliper and there should be an o-ring on each side.
I have the same Anthem as you Clint,. On this bike though, how does one route outer cables shifters or outer brake into the frame of this bike, does it require a thin tube as a guide or could one just remove the old inners first then use the old outers as a guide to feed in new inners then take out the old outers with the new inners as guide to put the new outers? all these without using any other tube that one would have to get from a hardware store as a guide?
Secondly, we know you do get the olive with the new brakes but, what if you but a fairly-used brakes or where do you olives and the other connector insert?
The "olive" is known as a "compression ferrell", used in evaporative air conditioners of yesterday.
good vid!
Hey, the little silver insert you insert into the hose when its in the vice, is that the one that was there before? or do you have to buy them seperate? im about to buy xt brakes so im guessing i will need to shorten so do i need to buy that insert aswell? or? if so whats the exact name and where from? thanks
+Mathew Pugh If you buy XT brakes that weren't meant to be on a retail bike than they will be in OEM packaging and not bubble wrap. The front brake includes the bleed block and the hose holder. Each set comes with the needle and the olive. The clue lies in the lengths.
Hey man, great video! Do you really need a cable cutter like that? Can't I use a normal cutting pliers?
I never have but if they are very sharp I guess you could.
Thanks for the great vid! One question though: I have to replace my current line which is filled with oil. Is it the best to push the oil out from the bottom to the top (in the funnel) or just let gravity do its work and let it come out at the bottom?
I've done both but the gravity method is a lot easier. The downside is for the rear brake you have to take the caliper off the bike and let it hang down lower. For the front brake the gravity method is very easy.
@@ClintGibbs thanks! It’s the front brake so it shouldn’t be a problem
Thank you SO much
Thank You sir!
Great video Clint. Do you have to replace the olive any time you detach the brake lines from the lever or only if you are shortening the hose? I ask because I got a pair of brakes that came Euro style. I switched the lines and one seems to work great, but the other seems to be leaking. I'm thinking it's either I need to redo the olive and pin every time or maybe I didn't tighten enough (i.e., 8 newtons)? Any thoughts appreciated.
+Blake Durtsche no, you do not need to change the olive every time you remove the cable from the lever. It sounds like you just need to tighten the bolt the holds the cable in the lever. It's pretty finicky. I've had times where I thought it was tight enough but it leaked a little bit. Just taking it a tad more.
+Blake Durtsche *tighten* it a tad more
Hi! Thank you for the video.. I am trying to install hoses for r8070 caliper and grx shifters. On the shifter the olive and hose goes in and I screw the bolt inwards. It screws away, but doesnt seem to tighten? And on the rear...the olive and hose seem a lot tighter...the bolt screws in and starts to get tight, with maybe one third of the screwed surface left to tighten... Does this make sense? Any ideas, what I could be doing wrong? Thank you!
good vid dood
Nice video, that 'olive' looks like a compression fitting? At least thats what it looks like, never heard that term before, but it works.
It's designed to be crushed
@@smallhatshatethetruth7933 indeed... that's why it's called a "compression" fitting. You compress it or "crush" works too.
THANK YOUUUUU!!!
Thanks alot!
I just did this for the first time with a multi tool some pliers and a pair of snips
Hi Clint, great work on the video! Quick question. I just installed my first set of hydraulics (SLX). I noticed I have a slight twist in one of my cables (at the lever). Is it possible to loosen the bolt enough to remove the twist without having to completely remove the hose then bleed the brakes? Thanks!
Most likely you can. When that happens I remove the lever and twist it but sometimes it gets twisted in the opposite direction. If you loosen the bolts going into the lever as little as possible you will probably be able to turn the cable without any hydraulic fluid leaking out. Let me know how it goes.
Clint Gibbs I undid the bolt as much as I could and eventually the hose spun itself around into the right position without appearing to have lost any hydraulic fluid. May have originally over-tightened the bolts on the levers a little but everything seems to be fine; hoses are now untwisted and no leaks. Thanks for the assist! :)
I leave leaver bolts just tight enough to not move. That way they can move in event of a crash.
great video! need some advice, I need to detach my brake hose from my rear brake lever because i need to thread it through a new frame. do i need to replace the olives or can i just replace the hose in the lever?
+James Thompson You only need to replace the olive if you have to cut the hose.
fantastic, thank you
Clint, there's a much easier way to trim the line without having to bleed the entire system, just the top portion. You don't even have to remove the brake pads just make sure everything at the bottom end, brakes and rotors, are covered with some rags incase there's some spillage. When you cut the line at the top, everything else you did gets done the same, just cut the line, attach it back to the lever housing and tighten. Remove the bleed cover, attach the cup and add mineral oil, pump the lever several times and what ever air is at the top end of the braking system, will come out. Make sure your cables are propped up so that oil doesn't leak downward after you cut the lines. Also, make sure that they're paying attention to the "o" ring that's part of the bleed screw or screw cap and that it doesn't fall off…and you're done.
Hey Clint, thanks for another great video. Let me know... if i dont want to cut, just want to switch left housing to the right lever and right housing to the left lever... would i need new olives? TY.
No. You can use the same olive if you don't have to cut the lines.
Clint Gibbs but i will need to bleed it anyway, right?
Sometimes you don't. Don't let the cable drop down so the fluid leaks out. Install and test the brakes to see if they need to be bled.
Thank you!!
Clint Gibbs
That's great news! Thank you *so much* for this video, it really helps!! :)
Hey Clint nice video as always. I just purchased some Shimano XT brakes and was wondering if I needed to have shimano rotors or will the stock rotors work....it's a Specialized hardrock 29er with tektro hydraulic disk brakes....160mm front and back. Thanks
Joeup24 , the stock rotors should work just fine as long as they are not bent
Clint Gibbs Thanks I went ahead and slapped them on and it's night and day from my stock tektro.
Very cool!
Hi thanks for sharing but i need to learn how to install longer cables so i can swap handlebars.
I"ve read and heard frequently that this procedures can be succesfully accomplished without bleeding the brakes. What are your thoughts, Clint? Thanks so much, great great video.
+Justin Kamerman if you're careful you can do it without bleeding the brakes but you always need to prepare to bleed just in case.
Clint Gibbs Thanks you for your response. Truly appreciated. One more ? if you don't mind: how do you tell if you were careful enough and have to bleed or not-bleed, would it be based upon feel of the brakes? Again, thank you so much, looking forward to exploring your channel more. This is the end of my first full season of MTB, I'm in love!!!!
+Justin Kamerman after you cut a hose keep it up so fluid does not drip out and quickly install the cable inserts. Also there are yellow plugs that you can plug into the brake levers to keep fluid from dripping out of those as a temporary measure before installing the hose. Just move quickly so minimal fluid drips out. If it does don't worry about it and just do the bleed.
Do i have to thread in the bolt all the way in before it hits 8 nm torque ??? In my case.. my bolt was already tight that i think its already been threaded in about that NM but it hasnt threaded all the way in
very healpfull
was there hydralic fluid in the wire when you cut it or did you drain it before cutting.
You don't need to drain the fluid before cutting. In fact there are times where minimal bleeding is necessary if you can keep fluid from leaking out after you cut the line.
i've got ape hanger bars on an xl frame so i need longer hose than come with most sets, is there a process that describes this operation, buying hose adding length?
Hey Clint, nice vid , I am currently running Shimano M210 hydraulics but want to upgrade to SLX, do I have to use the hose that comes with the SLX or can I just use the hose thats on my current set up since they are already cut to the length that I need. Thanks in advance.
99% sure you can just use the same hydraulic hose. Keep the other one as a spare.
@@ClintGibbs Thanks a bunch Clint!!... Keep up the good work!
How often do you find that new in the box brakes need no adjustment? I'm leaning towards Shimano Zee to fit a Large 29er bike.
Only if they become soft. I probably have to bleed my brakes about once every year or two.
Hey Clint, if I am just replacing my lever but keeping my line, do I still have to install a new olive?
No, you can use the same olive/hose insert
this is likely a very stupid question, but why did no fluid spill out?
was there no fluid in the lines?
+nobodiesbusiness some comes out but the suction effect keeps a lot of it in. You still should plan on bleeding the brakes after this.
Where do you the brake cable insert and olive?
the one i bought was pre bleed, should i empty the lines first before shortening the brake cable?
No, don't drain the lines before doing that. In fact I have been lucky on occasions and have been able to cut lines and reinstall without having to bleed.