New to hydraulic brakes here. Tomorrow or so, I'll be doing this. I'm just waiting for the bleeding kit to arrive in the mail. LBSs here in Palm Beach County Florida are outrageously expensive so UA-cam has been my bike mech school for the past decade.
This is one of the reasons why I prefer Shimano brakes. Everything is simple, I’m doing it on the same way and works perfectly. The only difference is that I’m using a cable cutter for the hose. I used to cut it with knife before but after I tried it with cable cutter I couldn’t be bothered with the knife anymore.
just be careful you don't crack or crush the hose inner sleeve. Park Tool even states that their cable cutters aren't supposed to be used to cut brake hoses. You really don't want to use something that is using a clamping motion to cut the hose, that is why most hydraulic hose cutters are just a straight or even better a triangle shaped blade to cleanly slice through the hose without deforming it.
I have learned a ton from you man! First you helped me with my 1x11 conversion now you're helping with my mechanical to hydraulic brake conversion. Really appreciate your vids. Very simple, direct and to the point. Thanks!
Thank you for the clear instructions. I like that you used normal tools to accomplish this. Recommend watching this if you need to do this to your bike.
THANK YOU!! I'm getting ready to buy my 1st set of hydraulic breaks to build my Nukeproof frame I just got. You made this look so easy lol I hope I do the same!!
Fantastic video. I just this week converted an old Specialized Hard Rock Pro from cable pull to hydraulic and the hoses are crazy long. I was just going to leave them long but now I know how to shorten them. Much appreciated.
Used this guide more than once now. Thanks! When done correctly, how close should the lever be to the handlebar when pressed and the wheel's fully locked up? Thanks again!
@@LoveMTB I think I've removed most of the bubble and should be ok now. However, do you happen to know how to fix a leaking bleed port on the M6120 calipers? I torqued it to roughly 5Nm. (Manual says 4-6Nm) but still lekaing. Thanks in adavance!
Great No Nonsense Tutorial using basic tools and techniques, now I know for SURE that all I need to buy is the Olive/Inserts & Fluid. Curious about cable cutters on tubing? Im guessing they crush/deform cable or you would have used them, what about electrical wire stripers? Thanks for Tutorial, the fact that you were not wearing gloves immediately told me your are a real mechanic who's first brake bleed was not on a bicycle :)
Thank you for the effort and simplicity you put in your video. Any chance of doing an easy full bleed video for shimano brakes? There are so many different opinions on UA-cam and my guess is that yours would be a value to your viewers. Apologies if you have made one, but I was unable to find anything in your video list. Thank you for all your hard work.
its been a while since my last Shimano brakeset so thanks for refreshing my knowledge….can you cover off the difference that shimano have made in the hose barbs…as i’ve just been to the LBS and they say there is a silver one like you used and also the gold coloured barb i used several years ago…..i’m not quite sure what my brakes have as they are still in the mail, so i bought both…which are more expensive they they should be lol
Very helpful, apreciate the time and effort you've put in. I have a question, I have changed the rear brake and oil is coming of the brake lever, ( I've tighten it as much as I could and didn't help). So, I am thinking to shorten the hose couple cm and add new olive and insert. Do I have to change the hose as well? The hose is new, it came with the brake set. Cheers.
@@LoveMTB I removed the hose and checked the olive, and it seemd all right, could it be the hose not being cut straight although I did my best🤔 I'm gonna have to do it again, new olive and insert. Well, my first brake installation, a learning curve 😁 Cheers.
Awesome video! Follow-up question: so if I have two piston SLX BR M7000 calipers with BL M7000 levers, and I want to upgrade to four piston calipers (XT BR-M8120), could I simply swap out the calipers, keeping the original M7000 SLX levers and hoses? Then, after swapping out the calipers, conduct a quick bleed as shown in the video? This would make the upgrade much easier as I wouldn’t have to install everything from scratch. Thanks!
Great video. I will be installing new brakes soon. I will likely need to shorten the hosing. Should I be doing a quick lever bleed (like in your video) or a full lever and caliper port bleed? Which scenarios would you do the quick and the full? Thanks.
I have buyed e-bike with xt deore brakes. The brakes feel amazing. I have just notice my back break pump when I release its abit stiffer that my front brake. The back break work great expect the release of it when I leave the break it’s abit like slower that the front. Can this be caused from air inside the breaks? Bike is brand new I only got it yesterday and didn’t event go to mountain. I went today to store to ask a guy check my oil breaks and he said me to ride it and see if it goes away. I don’t see or believe there is some dmg on the mechanism. Thanks
Lol my new 8120 set came with everything but the barb insert, just a dummy barb inserted for routing, you then cut and have no barb but a preinstalled olive in lever.
I got a set of new M8100 Deore XT brake levers and matching brake calipers. I will need to shorten both front and rear hoses. Because I will need to pull the hose out from the lever and cut them, is it recommended I bleed to brakes to ensure there's no air in the system? Or because they're brand new, I don't need to bleed them? Thanks.
Tnx, great video. I just wonder, wouldn't it be better and safer to push the oil from the caliper into the funnel, just a little bit, to be sure to push those air bubbles into the reservoir? Do they travel into the reservoir by themselves after you connect the hose?
LoveMTB Ok, tnx. Anyone knows the theory behind this? Why should air bubbles travel to reservoir more happily in pressurized system? I think that they obey the archimedes law (bouyancy, lighter than oil, tendency to go upwards), and friction with oil and cable (that's why tapping the cable helps). Applying pressure doesn't affect the oil, since it's uncompressible, but affects bubbles, squashing them a bit. I'm just curious. Would love to have transparent cable so I can see what's going on there. :)
Can i also do this with my wheel installed? So that the brakes will bite into the Rotor instead of the bleeding Block. Just the small bleeding i mean Sorry for my Bad English. Answer would be great
I have Shimano BR-MT500 brakes and wonder if the yellow bleeding block will fit? If I remember correctly there is different colors (size) like red bleed blocks.
Great job on this tutorial. I very much want to shorten my hoses, and I have the bleed kit and the cutters already. I still need to find the insert and the olive. Do you buy those somewhere? I assume that once the olive is used once, it gets deformed onto the cable end and thus can't be moved or re-used.
Nice vid! What do you recommend if the hose still slides out of the master cylinder? It seems the master cylinder is defective if it won't crimp the olive do you think?
@@LoveMTB yes I did, maybe even a little to much but it still didn't stay. I ordered some new olives and a kit. I'm going to cut the end off and try with new parts tomorrow. If that won't fix it I'll try replacing the hose 🤷♂️
Done mounting my M6100 brakes now, and to my disappointment I'm a bit bummed over a tool I purchased long time ago that I have not used until now simply because I haven't had the need to. I tried the Park Tool HBT-1 brake hose cutter and insert "presser" tool. It failed badly, and at this price point it should definitely not function as badly as it does. Same thing happened twice in a row. First off it does not cut a straight flush cut, so you're left with a jaggety line and it as well crushed the end so you need to fix that. Not a big deal, but when this will happen every single time, it actually is in my eyes. Of course after an insert is mounted it may be fine, but I don't purchase tools like this to be sitting here with a half assed result. Then onto the second function of it, which is to mount the insert. The issue here is the clamp, and to clamp it tight enough for the hose not to move, it actually destroys the outside of it and creates cuts and also deforms the outside. This creates an issue for the olive to slide past this messed up area, which again makes it impossible to even make the flared nut behind it able to enter the threads of the brake pump. I was seriously pissed at this point, and thankfully I have 10 olives and inserts so that at least wouldn't turn into a problem. I tried once more, and same thing happened over again. Both the cutting function and the insert function #¤%#"¤% it all up. It was at this point I thought about how simple and easy the job looks while using the basic tools in this video, and I actually did purchase those two plastic clamps for the hose, and I have a Stanley knife. When I tried again using these simple tools it worked perfectly on the first attempt. The cut was flush, and just no issues. The clamping tool also worked as intended, and no messed up externals of the hose. Everything just worked. I'm just very disappointed at this point because I have a lot of tools from Park Tool that are more than good enough, yet this tool was a complete useless garbage to be honest. I will never use it again, but even though the basic tools work, I would like a purpose built tool, just a tool that actually works lol. I know Shimano has a simple one that I've tried in the past, and it worked so I might give that a go(Shimano TL-BH62). The brakes themself are working like clockwork, so no issues there. Also glad I upgraded to 180mm discs because that made a nice difference for sure.
Shimano XT vs SRAM code R, hello to whoever is interested in my experience. I have had XT and currently I’m ridding code R, if I knew what I know now I would have replaced the code R directly on my new bike for the XT BR-M8020 (or Magura MT7 little bit overkill for me). I have had zero problems for 3 years with my XT and now ridding code R for 4 months I’m almost at the point of replacing them. So why: They just do not quite functionate as how a good set of disc brakes should + pour material quality, rotors rust, cheap paint, oversized components, (DIY) unfriendly to work one, never quite the result you where hoping for after some tlc and so long. My girlfriend rides SLX for over 2 years and are in better condition than my code R, we ride 95% of the times together. I hope that I saved some people from wasting their time, money and frustration. Something about myself I’m a perfectionist very technical skilled and realistic. (Last summer in Austria a DH bike rental place told us they replace all Sram brakes directly and sell them for dirt cheap new, they just do not want to bother using them. That should have been a motivation for me to replace them directly but I did not, regrets big time.)
Mauro van Leijden this is so true. Had my sram guide for 3 weeks since it came with my new bike. They are garbage!!! I went out and bought a set of Shimano XT.
exactly the same experience for me, had slx on my trail bike, code r on a new enduro bike - almost had a crash in the alps when the rear code r pulled to the bar at random!!! replacing them with a set of saint m820s
@@jamble7k and @Mauro the main reason is that SRAM works with brake fluid (which is hygroscopic hence absorbs humidity over time) so you have two enemies there: air and water, which heats after braking and becomes vapor. This explains why the levers pulled to the bar. Once cooled down, vapor goes back to water. Even the best bleeded SRAM system could get humidity inside so over time might give issues. With Shimano, using mineral oil, once you took away air, your system is fully working. Even though I have a motorbike and I regularly bleed its brakes (which use brake fluid) without any problem, for my bike I switched to Shimano Saint m820s 5 years ago and they still perform badass.
Hi, its possible to put a "banjo" to a normal hose? I have a XT 4 piston caliper, and I cant install it because my actual shimano 4 pistons brakes comes with the regular hose. Or do I have to replace the entire hose? Thanks!!
@@LoveMTB Oh why can’t the olives be re-used? Is it one time use because it gets compressed into the cylinder? The olives are not uni-directional right?
Hi, new to your channel. I'm looking into gyro gear for hydraulic brakes, I was wondering if you've worked on that. There's so many new ones that actually needs bleeding and I'd like to see that done please.
In this day and age where parts and everything is harder and harder to get by, I just wanted to be really sure how much oil I will need when my new brakes arrive. There's only one of my local shops who has got Shimano Mineral oil for sale, and they only got the 1 litre option. They also sell it at a premium price as well, so I'm reluctant to go that route. As I need to order brake discs, adapters and what not as well, I will rather just add a 100ml bottle of mineral oil to the cart as I now see that will do the job. I have not had mineral oil system before, but at least DOT fluid has a recommended shelf life after the container is opened, and that's why I want to avoid almost a 1 litre of oil just sitting there for a long time. It would most likely be sitting there for 2 years time till the first full flush of the system is due, and by that time I don't feel confident in using that same fluid again. The 500ml option is too hard to track down now if I want to order together with the other parts, so 100ml it is. I hope this shortage of supply shenanigans will turn around sooner than later, as I am so tired of it.
Hello mate, I have recently purchased the new deore xt m8100, the front brake works fine it’s rock solid but no matter what I do to the rear brake it’s just weak as heck, no matter how much bleeding I do, do you have any tips or wisdom? You seemed to be pretty experienced with a variety of shimano brakes. Thank you in advance 🙏 Long story version below lol I bought them through a bike shop where he could services my bike, install the brakes and put a new stem cap where the front brake hose could pass through, usually it’s something I’d do myself (live overseas and don’t have many tools to change the star nut ) so I chose to get it done through a shop and have the mechanic there do it, ofcourse he had no idea what he was doing I think it was the first time he ever had done hydraulic brakes 😟 but anyway, I took them home and I couldn’t even bed the brakes in because there was so much air in the brake lines I couldn’t get a good enough grip to start. So I bought a bleeding kit which I thought I wouldn’t need for a while. So I bled the brakes and the front one was good and solid but the the back one I tried everything, watched soo many tutorials and read forums and can’t just seem to get them to not feel spongey compared to the front one. I still think the front one is spongey but maybe I’m just used to squeezing the life out of a cable actuated brake lol.
LoveMTB thanks for taking your time to reply mate I really appreciate the effort , perhaps I just have to get used to comparing to cable brakes, I’ll try a bleed again because the rear isn’t close to being like the front one (ofcourse I’m aware that front brake has more stopping power lol). I’ll reset and re bed the brakes, good luck to me and thanks again!
LoveMTB I decided to loosen everything up and re-tighten all the connects seems to have improved a little since last check, now all I have to do is wait for this weather to stop raining so I can get out and ride before the snow comes 🙏 I will report back! Thanks again
LoveMTB you weren’t wrong! I think I got to the bottom of it and holy balls I almost filled my pants on multiple occasions at the power of front and rear 😂 I had to adjust the pistons slightly between front and rear for them to feel the same and they feel awesome. Using it for a dirt jumper/trials bike thingy, they are powerful, I wanna switch to some resin pads cause I think they are a little too noisy. Thanks again for the encouragement and help!
Can i use slx br7000 straight out of the box without shortening..i see it comes with the brass fitting and tip to be hammered in.is that because if cutting off you lose them and those are replacements.or this process needs done before using..sorry if this is a silly question but i just like reassurance..ty
Thanks i did install them just to get a feel for them im going to take off several inches from each. I was just starting the process and cruising around wearing in the pads. I just wanted to be sure that was ok.b4 i trim them down..allgood i appreciate you getting back to me. Im a subscriber now and will tune in to support your channel..peace!!
@@LoveMTB Thanks for the response. I did a quick-bleed and used the blocks as you recommended... worked great. Super easy and got a bunch of air bubbles out of the system. Thanks again.
XLNT video! Do you have to use a specific grease on the olive and the threads of the screw in nut part (sorry, forget the name), or can I use say any automotive grease? I happen to have a can of Mobile 1 synthetic grease (purple stuff)... would it be ok to use this for my grease? Thanks!
@@LoveMTB Anything? Honestly, that's a bit reckless to say that. Wd-40 would be horrible, for example. I'd highly recommend silicone grease! Silicone grease is commonly used for lubricating and preserving rubber parts, such as O-rings. Additionally, silicone grease does not swell or soften rubber, which can be a problem with hydrocarbon-based greases. It functions well as a corrosion inhibitor and lubricant for purposes that require a thicker lubricant.
Hello. I'm having trouble inserting the barb into the hose. I already attempted doing it twice but the hose seems to be really tight and I cant manage to fully insert the barbs. Took me close to 5 hours of hammering, and they still wont go fully in. Any tips?
@@LoveMTB thanks for the reply some one was going to charge me £30 just for a front brake bleed I was on about the square block to tap the thing in the end of the cable
Thanks for checking in on this! FYI, my T6000 set (a m6000 variant) came with two. (And two pairs of blocks for holding the cable. Not confusing anything here.) In any case, no need to order that extra.
@@LoveMTB okay, thank you bro. I'm asking because there's no store nearby. The nearest store is about 78km from home hehe.. what can you suggest bro? :) A big thumbs up to your video bro.
Ok here is one. Take off ur shock, remove the can, now looking at the ifp shaft there is a oring holding a large washer. The bottom out oring. It separated. Why and how and how do you replace that without doing a full ifp service?
The only thing i can see is to do a full ifp service and remove the seal head. Once you pul off the seal head you have to remove any air in the damper which in that case your better off doing a full service at the same time. But i have no idea how that oring failed. Must have been a manufacturing problem in the material.
LoveMTB yes i’ve seen it and indeed was very helpful. Thanks for that man. But what im tryin to ask is that i have here my xt which replaced my deore. Problem is, my hose on the xt (rear) is shorter than the deore. So im thinking if i could take off this hose from my deore and install it on my xt. Sorry man if it sounds complicated. But thanks in advance.
@@LoveMTB Bled my NEW brakes last week and only removed the yellow plug and put the hose in there (with the metal piece hammered in). Didn't do anything with the olive but I pressume the hose I pushed in has gone into the olive.
No it's not ONLY on the left. And it has nothing to do with driving on the left either. How many motorcycles have the front brake lever on the left ? None. The whole reason why the front brake system of motorcycles and bicycles is on the left side of the fork is for cable routing to go to the right. It routes up the left leg and arcs over to the right lever in a smooth path with no bends. I know that manufactures set the cables/hoses up backward due to tradition but they are made to be right hand front brake.
@@tristanwwsd Something for you to read: cyclingtips.com/2009/05/why-do-brakes-differ/#:~:text=For%20example%2C%20here%20in%20Australia,on%20the%20left-hand%20side.&text=You%20ride%20on%20the%20right,on%20the%20right-hand%20side.
No need for bleed block for bleeding levers. Bleed block is for bleeding the calipers so you don’t get oil on your pads. It’s nonsense when people say for both so you don’t put too much oil in lines. Countless lever bleeds with caliper on disc, never an issue. Total waste of time.
What if you don't have the insert and the plunger(Olive) say, you are installing a used brake, how do you get the insert and the plunger(Olive) since you can't reuse the old ones. I will wait. You see, everything isn't always ideal as you demonstrate in video dear content creator, some people like me just can't always afford new brakes that come with everything. And again, when you cut the rear brake cable for the bike with the internal routing, why didn't any oil come out? I thought shimano brakes are already filled with oil and also bled. All these information when left out creates nothing but confusion.
With all the riders switching over to carbon they had to move to disc due to safety reasons. The braking surface on carbon doesn't work like aluminum did.
thanks for the video, glad i saw this.. i have a question i forgot to put back the rubber cover after shortening the hose ( I already tightened the the connecting nut), do i need to use new olive and pin if i will remove the hose from the lever so i can put back the cover? thanks
lots of great tips, I've seen few how to bleed videos already and this one is by far the best I've seen with the most experienced mechanic tips
New to hydraulic brakes here. Tomorrow or so, I'll be doing this. I'm just waiting for the bleeding kit to arrive in the mail. LBSs here in Palm Beach County Florida are outrageously expensive so UA-cam has been my bike mech school for the past decade.
This is one of the reasons why I prefer Shimano brakes. Everything is simple, I’m doing it on the same way and works perfectly. The only difference is that I’m using a cable cutter for the hose. I used to cut it with knife before but after I tried it with cable cutter I couldn’t be bothered with the knife anymore.
just be careful you don't crack or crush the hose inner sleeve. Park Tool even states that their cable cutters aren't supposed to be used to cut brake hoses. You really don't want to use something that is using a clamping motion to cut the hose, that is why most hydraulic hose cutters are just a straight or even better a triangle shaped blade to cleanly slice through the hose without deforming it.
I have learned a ton from you man! First you helped me with my 1x11 conversion now you're helping with my mechanical to hydraulic brake conversion. Really appreciate your vids. Very simple, direct and to the point. Thanks!
@Patrick Kyng lmao
One of the best videos I’ve seen so far!
Thank you for the clear instructions. I like that you used normal tools to accomplish this. Recommend watching this if you need to do this to your bike.
Glad it helped🤘
That's a very good review pal. Quick, to the point and still with all the little things that are important. Well done
THANK YOU!! I'm getting ready to buy my 1st set of hydraulic breaks to build my Nukeproof frame I just got. You made this look so easy lol I hope I do the same!!
Have fun!
Thanks this made quick work of installing my new brake. I really had to pound on the hose barb for the lever hose connection to get mine in.
Glad it helped
I just found your channel and I'm so glad you did, no unnecessary stuff straight to the point. thank you
Just what I needed. Finally have the confidence to do my new rear break today!
Nice video. Nice instruction. Thanks for not making it 45 minutes or longer too!
Mañana hago yo mi segundo intento para montar este bloqueo. Seguiré tus consejos.. cruzo dedos a ver si lo consigo.
clean and simple, using basic tools. great tutorial. many thanks!
Fantastic video. I just this week converted an old Specialized Hard Rock Pro from cable pull to hydraulic and the hoses are crazy long. I was just going to leave them long but now I know how to shorten them. Much appreciated.
Nice how-to as usual, and I'd give an extra like for moto setup :)
Used this guide more than once now. Thanks! When done correctly, how close should the lever be to the handlebar when pressed and the wheel's fully locked up? Thanks again!
@@LoveMTB I think I've removed most of the bubble and should be ok now. However, do you happen to know how to fix a leaking bleed port on the M6120 calipers? I torqued it to roughly 5Nm. (Manual says 4-6Nm) but still lekaing. Thanks in adavance!
Another great video with nothing but useful information. Shimano should hire you as a product specialist. Good job.
Great No Nonsense Tutorial using basic tools and techniques, now I know for SURE that all I need to buy is the Olive/Inserts & Fluid. Curious about cable cutters on tubing? Im guessing they crush/deform cable or you would have used them, what about electrical wire stripers? Thanks for Tutorial, the fact that you were not wearing gloves immediately told me your are a real mechanic who's first brake bleed was not on a bicycle :)
Bad practice. One should get into the habit of using gloves. Contaminants come from human hands also.
Thank you for the effort and simplicity you put in your video. Any chance of doing an easy full bleed video for shimano brakes? There are so many different opinions on UA-cam and my guess is that yours would be a value to your viewers. Apologies if you have made one, but I was unable to find anything in your video list. Thank you for all your hard work.
Great video! Simple, yet all inclusive. 🙏🏼
its been a while since my last Shimano brakeset so thanks for refreshing my knowledge….can you cover off the difference that shimano have made in the hose barbs…as i’ve just been to the LBS and they say there is a silver one like you used and also the gold coloured barb i used several years ago…..i’m not quite sure what my brakes have as they are still in the mail, so i bought both…which are more expensive they they should be lol
Very helpful, apreciate the time and effort you've put in.
I have a question, I have changed the rear brake and oil is coming of the brake lever, ( I've tighten it as much as I could and didn't help). So, I am thinking to shorten the hose couple cm and add new olive and insert. Do I have to change the hose as well? The hose is new, it came with the brake set.
Cheers.
@@LoveMTB I removed the hose and checked the olive, and it seemd all right, could it be the hose not being cut straight although I did my best🤔 I'm gonna have to do it again, new olive and insert. Well, my first brake installation, a learning curve 😁
Cheers.
Another super helpful video, you are my goto anytime I need to do something new.
Very helpful and so many details covered, thank you
Excellent explanation with very clear instructions - THANK YOU!!!
Awesome video! Follow-up question: so if I have two piston SLX BR M7000 calipers with BL M7000 levers, and I want to upgrade to four piston calipers (XT BR-M8120), could I simply swap out the calipers, keeping the original M7000 SLX levers and hoses? Then, after swapping out the calipers, conduct a quick bleed as shown in the video? This would make the upgrade much easier as I wouldn’t have to install everything from scratch. Thanks!
Great video. I will be installing new brakes soon. I will likely need to shorten the hosing. Should I be doing a quick lever bleed (like in your video) or a full lever and caliper port bleed? Which scenarios would you do the quick and the full? Thanks.
Excellent video, I even have the same brakes! Can't believe some bike shops charge £25 per brake!
thx a lot helped me underestand more of bike maintnance
I have buyed e-bike with xt deore brakes. The brakes feel amazing. I have just notice my back break pump when I release its abit stiffer that my front brake. The back break work great expect the release of it when I leave the break it’s abit like slower that the front. Can this be caused from air inside the breaks? Bike is brand new I only got it yesterday and didn’t event go to mountain. I went today to store to ask a guy check my oil breaks and he said me to ride it and see if it goes away. I don’t see or believe there is some dmg on the mechanism. Thanks
Your fan here.. Nice content all the time..
Great video! Thank you.
Good tutoring. Thanks mate. Will trying out.
Great video. I wish Shimano would provide the little yellow thing and the insert and olive when you buy brakes.
Lol my new 8120 set came with everything but the barb insert, just a dummy barb inserted for routing, you then cut and have no barb but a preinstalled olive in lever.
I got a set of new M8100 Deore XT brake levers and matching brake calipers. I will need to shorten both front and rear hoses. Because I will need to pull the hose out from the lever and cut them, is it recommended I bleed to brakes to ensure there's no air in the system? Or because they're brand new, I don't need to bleed them? Thanks.
Tnx, great video. I just wonder, wouldn't it be better and safer to push the oil from the caliper into the funnel, just a little bit, to be sure to push those air bubbles into the reservoir? Do they travel into the reservoir by themselves after you connect the hose?
LoveMTB Ok, tnx. Anyone knows the theory behind this? Why should air bubbles travel to reservoir more happily in pressurized system? I think that they obey the archimedes law (bouyancy, lighter than oil, tendency to go upwards), and friction with oil and cable (that's why tapping the cable helps). Applying pressure doesn't affect the oil, since it's uncompressible, but affects bubbles, squashing them a bit. I'm just curious. Would love to have transparent cable so I can see what's going on there. :)
Can i also do this with my wheel installed? So that the brakes will bite into the Rotor instead of the bleeding Block. Just the small bleeding i mean
Sorry for my Bad English. Answer would be great
@@LoveMTB ive got the Block. Just wanted to ask in generell. I will Order new saint brakes so they should bei included
@@LoveMTB okaay. Will there ne 2 Blocks or what
Excellent demonstration thanku
Hi. I'm planning to upgrade my two caliper pistons to 4 pot Deore. Do I need a new pin and olive or can I just replace the calipers? Thanks.
oh yeah, always
Nice video!
I have Shimano BR-MT500 brakes and wonder if the yellow bleeding block will fit? If I remember correctly there is different colors (size) like red bleed blocks.
Great job on this tutorial. I very much want to shorten my hoses, and I have the bleed kit and the cutters already. I still need to find the insert and the olive. Do you buy those somewhere? I assume that once the olive is used once, it gets deformed onto the cable end and thus can't be moved or re-used.
Nice vid! What do you recommend if the hose still slides out of the master cylinder? It seems the master cylinder is defective if it won't crimp the olive do you think?
Nah you still have a problem there, did you tighten that nut properly? It has to crush the olive on the hose/ insert
@@LoveMTB yes I did, maybe even a little to much but it still didn't stay. I ordered some new olives and a kit. I'm going to cut the end off and try with new parts tomorrow. If that won't fix it I'll try replacing the hose 🤷♂️
It's a very simple process, just follow my steps😉@@Laurel-Crowned
@@LoveMTB Thanks bro! Been working on cars my whole life so no biggie but this plastic junk worries me lol
Thanks for the lesson!
Your videos are good , thanks for the tutorial 👍👍
Done mounting my M6100 brakes now, and to my disappointment I'm a bit bummed over a tool I purchased long time ago that I have not used until now simply because I haven't had the need to. I tried the Park Tool HBT-1 brake hose cutter and insert "presser" tool. It failed badly, and at this price point it should definitely not function as badly as it does. Same thing happened twice in a row. First off it does not cut a straight flush cut, so you're left with a jaggety line and it as well crushed the end so you need to fix that. Not a big deal, but when this will happen every single time, it actually is in my eyes. Of course after an insert is mounted it may be fine, but I don't purchase tools like this to be sitting here with a half assed result.
Then onto the second function of it, which is to mount the insert. The issue here is the clamp, and to clamp it tight enough for the hose not to move, it actually destroys the outside of it and creates cuts and also deforms the outside. This creates an issue for the olive to slide past this messed up area, which again makes it impossible to even make the flared nut behind it able to enter the threads of the brake pump. I was seriously pissed at this point, and thankfully I have 10 olives and inserts so that at least wouldn't turn into a problem. I tried once more, and same thing happened over again. Both the cutting function and the insert function #¤%#"¤% it all up.
It was at this point I thought about how simple and easy the job looks while using the basic tools in this video, and I actually did purchase those two plastic clamps for the hose, and I have a Stanley knife. When I tried again using these simple tools it worked perfectly on the first attempt. The cut was flush, and just no issues. The clamping tool also worked as intended, and no messed up externals of the hose. Everything just worked.
I'm just very disappointed at this point because I have a lot of tools from Park Tool that are more than good enough, yet this tool was a complete useless garbage to be honest. I will never use it again, but even though the basic tools work, I would like a purpose built tool, just a tool that actually works lol. I know Shimano has a simple one that I've tried in the past, and it worked so I might give that a go(Shimano TL-BH62).
The brakes themself are working like clockwork, so no issues there. Also glad I upgraded to 180mm discs because that made a nice difference for sure.
Very helpful, much appreciated, thanks
Shimano XT vs SRAM code R, hello to whoever is interested in
my experience. I have had XT and currently I’m ridding code R, if I knew what I
know now I would have replaced the code R directly on my new bike for the XT
BR-M8020 (or Magura MT7 little bit overkill for me). I have had zero problems
for 3 years with my XT and now ridding code R for 4 months I’m almost at the
point of replacing them. So why: They just do not quite functionate as how a
good set of disc brakes should + pour material quality, rotors rust, cheap
paint, oversized components, (DIY) unfriendly to work one, never quite the
result you where hoping for after some tlc and so long. My girlfriend rides SLX
for over 2 years and are in better condition than my code R, we ride 95% of the
times together. I hope that I saved some people from wasting their time, money
and frustration. Something about myself I’m a perfectionist very technical
skilled and realistic. (Last summer in Austria a DH bike rental place told us they
replace all Sram brakes directly and sell them for dirt cheap new, they just do
not want to bother using them. That should have been a motivation for me to
replace them directly but I did not, regrets big time.)
Mauro van Leijden this is so true. Had my sram guide for 3 weeks since it came with my new bike. They are garbage!!! I went out and bought a set of Shimano XT.
exactly the same experience for me, had slx on my trail bike, code r on a new enduro bike - almost had a crash in the alps when the rear code r pulled to the bar at random!!! replacing them with a set of saint m820s
@@jamble7k and @Mauro the main reason is that SRAM works with brake fluid (which is hygroscopic hence absorbs humidity over time) so you have two enemies there: air and water, which heats after braking and becomes vapor. This explains why the levers pulled to the bar. Once cooled down, vapor goes back to water.
Even the best bleeded SRAM system could get humidity inside so over time might give issues.
With Shimano, using mineral oil, once you took away air, your system is fully working.
Even though I have a motorbike and I regularly bleed its brakes (which use brake fluid) without any problem, for my bike I switched to Shimano Saint m820s 5 years ago and they still perform badass.
Any idea if you can reuse the olive and barb? Coz my brakes did not come with those are spares!? Thanks
Hi, its possible to put a "banjo" to a normal hose? I have a XT 4 piston caliper, and I cant install it because my actual shimano 4 pistons brakes comes with the regular hose. Or do I have to replace the entire hose? Thanks!!
THANK YOU!!!
Excellent!!! Thanks a heap.
Can you use a Park Tool shifter cable cutter to do the job?
Can you re-use the inserts?
Thanks
@@LoveMTB Oh why can’t the olives be re-used? Is it one time use because it gets compressed into the cylinder?
The olives are not uni-directional right?
How did you route the hose through the frame while it was filled with oil?
Hi, new to your channel. I'm looking into gyro gear for hydraulic brakes, I was wondering if you've worked on that. There's so many new ones that actually needs bleeding and I'd like to see that done please.
hi Love
In this day and age where parts and everything is harder and harder to get by, I just wanted to be really sure how much oil I will need when my new brakes arrive. There's only one of my local shops who has got Shimano Mineral oil for sale, and they only got the 1 litre option. They also sell it at a premium price as well, so I'm reluctant to go that route. As I need to order brake discs, adapters and what not as well, I will rather just add a 100ml bottle of mineral oil to the cart as I now see that will do the job.
I have not had mineral oil system before, but at least DOT fluid has a recommended shelf life after the container is opened, and that's why I want to avoid almost a 1 litre of oil just sitting there for a long time. It would most likely be sitting there for 2 years time till the first full flush of the system is due, and by that time I don't feel confident in using that same fluid again. The 500ml option is too hard to track down now if I want to order together with the other parts, so 100ml it is.
I hope this shortage of supply shenanigans will turn around sooner than later, as I am so tired of it.
Great video
Hello mate,
I have recently purchased the new deore xt m8100, the front brake works fine it’s rock solid but no matter what I do to the rear brake it’s just weak as heck, no matter how much bleeding I do, do you have any tips or wisdom? You seemed to be pretty experienced with a variety of shimano brakes.
Thank you in advance 🙏
Long story version below lol
I bought them through a bike shop where he could services my bike, install the brakes and put a new stem cap where the front brake hose could pass through,
usually it’s something I’d do myself (live overseas and don’t have many tools to change the star nut ) so I chose to get it done through a shop and have the mechanic there do it, ofcourse he had no idea what he was doing I think it was the first time he ever had done hydraulic brakes 😟 but anyway, I took them home and I couldn’t even bed the brakes in because there was so much air in the brake lines I couldn’t get a good enough grip to start. So I bought a bleeding kit which I thought I wouldn’t need for a while. So I bled the brakes and the front one was good and solid but the the back one I tried everything, watched soo many tutorials and read forums and can’t just seem to get them to not feel spongey compared to the front one.
I still think the front one is spongey but maybe I’m just used to squeezing the life out of a cable actuated brake lol.
LoveMTB thanks for taking your time to reply mate I really appreciate the effort , perhaps I just have to get used to comparing to cable brakes, I’ll try a bleed again because the rear isn’t close to being like the front one (ofcourse I’m aware that front brake has more stopping power lol).
I’ll reset and re bed the brakes, good luck to me and thanks again!
LoveMTB I decided to loosen everything up and re-tighten all the connects seems to have improved a little since last check, now all I have to do is wait for this weather to stop raining so I can get out and ride before the snow comes 🙏
I will report back! Thanks again
LoveMTB you weren’t wrong! I think I got to the bottom of it and holy balls I almost filled my pants on multiple occasions at the power of front and rear 😂 I had to adjust the pistons slightly between front and rear for them to feel the same and they feel awesome. Using it for a dirt jumper/trials bike thingy, they are powerful, I wanna switch to some resin pads cause I think they are a little too noisy. Thanks again for the encouragement and help!
Can i use slx br7000 straight out of the box without shortening..i see it comes with the brass fitting and tip to be hammered in.is that because if cutting off you lose them and those are replacements.or this process needs done before using..sorry if this is a silly question but i just like reassurance..ty
Thanks i did install them just to get a feel for them im going to take off several inches from each.
I was just starting the process and cruising around wearing in the pads. I just wanted to be sure that was ok.b4 i trim them down..allgood i appreciate you getting back to me. Im a subscriber now and will tune in to support your channel..peace!!
Since you were just doing a ‘quick-bleed’, what was the purpose of installing the bleed block? Is that really a necessary step?
@@LoveMTB Thanks for the response. I did a quick-bleed and used the blocks as you recommended... worked great. Super easy and got a bunch of air bubbles out of the system. Thanks again.
I have new Sram GX brakes I need to shorten..is it the same process? Will the same tools and connectors apply?
@@LoveMTB ok..more stuff to buy..thank you..👍🏻
why other people dont use the old olives and fitting when they cut the hose?
Very helpful
Thank you!
XLNT video! Do you have to use a specific grease on the olive and the threads of the screw in nut part (sorry, forget the name), or can I use say any automotive grease? I happen to have a can of Mobile 1 synthetic grease (purple stuff)... would it be ok to use this for my grease? Thanks!
@@LoveMTB Anything? Honestly, that's a bit reckless to say that. Wd-40 would be horrible, for example. I'd highly recommend silicone grease! Silicone grease is commonly used for lubricating and preserving rubber parts, such as O-rings. Additionally, silicone grease does not swell or soften rubber, which can be a problem with hydrocarbon-based greases. It functions well as a corrosion inhibitor and lubricant for purposes that require a thicker lubricant.
@@RobbiePfunder Haven't heard of WD-40 grease yet.
Very nice your video!!!!!!!!! Thanks you, likes for you...!!!!!
@@LoveMTB Excelents works!!!!!!!!!
nice video, thanks!
Bravo!
Thank you for this!
always good i was thinking about getting a 10 speed 11/46 sunrace cassette do you have any thoughts on that ?
perfect thanks
Hello. I'm having trouble inserting the barb into the hose. I already attempted doing it twice but the hose seems to be really tight and I cant manage to fully insert the barbs. Took me close to 5 hours of hammering, and they still wont go fully in. Any tips?
Yes I do. I have the Shimano BH90 hose for the Deore brakes. I also have the silver barbs that came with the brakeset.
Is it possible to use MTB levers like the MT501 wit Dura Ace calipers? I have Dura Ace R9100 and wanna do a conversion to flatbar. Thx
@@LoveMTB thank you
If I shorten my hose do I need to bleed my brakes,is it ok if im not bleed it
You like using the front brake on the right?
@@LoveMTB It's not European. It is used by countries that drive on the left (i'll let you figure out why - not difficult!).
What would you recommend if you haven't got the yellow block
@@LoveMTB thanks for the reply some one was going to charge me £30 just for a front brake bleed I was on about the square block to tap the thing in the end of the cable
@@LoveMTB thanks mate happy riding
The yellow bleeding spacer, does it come with a set of new brakes, or do I have to order one additionally?
Comes with a set of front and rear, or even in some cases with a front *and* rear package (you end up with two).
Thanks for checking in on this! FYI, my T6000 set (a m6000 variant) came with two. (And two pairs of blocks for holding the cable. Not confusing anything here.) In any case, no need to order that extra.
This way can be done and someone who does not know of brakes or wants help;
I get fluid coming out between the screw and the hose even after tightening the screw really tight..
Sweet 🤟
Can I reuse the metal on the tip of the hose?
@@LoveMTB okay, thank you bro. I'm asking because there's no store nearby. The nearest store is about 78km from home hehe.. what can you suggest bro? :) A big thumbs up to your video bro.
I think you can, only it would be hard to remove the insert from the cut cable?
I wonder... why ppl mount their rear brake lever on the left side if they're not left handed....?
I hope you'll video for sram R brakes 👍
That's funny. What didn't you like about them?
Ok here is one. Take off ur shock, remove the can, now looking at the ifp shaft there is a oring holding a large washer. The bottom out oring. It separated. Why and how and how do you replace that without doing a full ifp service?
2016 rs monarch rc3 plus debonair 200x57
Did a full tune and service. Then got a stuck down and when i took the can off i found the seal failed
The only thing i can see is to do a full ifp service and remove the seal head. Once you pul off the seal head you have to remove any air in the damper which in that case your better off doing a full service at the same time. But i have no idea how that oring failed. Must have been a manufacturing problem in the material.
Oh and get this. Rs lyrik can use fox gold 20wt oil and rs monarch can use fox float fluid.
Was chatting with steve from vorsprung. He said no prob with either
fun fact: capillary action keeps fluid from coming out
It's good at sucking in air too!
What name of that yellow block? @ 4:40
great video. my brake olive fell under my deck into the grass Fuck my life
Can i swap hoses of deore m615 and xt m8000?
LoveMTB yes i’ve seen it and indeed was very helpful. Thanks for that man. But what im tryin to ask is that i have here my xt which replaced my deore. Problem is, my hose on the xt (rear) is shorter than the deore. So im thinking if i could take off this hose from my deore and install it on my xt. Sorry man if it sounds complicated. But thanks in advance.
Problem is i dont know how to take off this banjo. And no bike shops here in my place unfortunately.🤦🏾♂️
LoveMTB thanks man.
Mine is leaking oil after I installed the hose.
I didn't have the metal olive around the end of my SLX rear brake. Wonder if the olive is already in the lever end as it was all brand new?
@@LoveMTB Bled my NEW brakes last week and only removed the yellow plug and put the hose in there (with the metal piece hammered in). Didn't do anything with the olive but I pressume the hose I pushed in has gone into the olive.
Front brake is ONLY on the left
Not in countries that drive on the left.
No it's not ONLY on the left. And it has nothing to do with driving on the left either. How many motorcycles have the front brake lever on the left ?
None. The whole reason why the front brake system of motorcycles and bicycles is on the left side of the fork is for cable routing to go to the right.
It routes up the left leg and arcs over to the right lever in a smooth path with no bends. I know that manufactures set the cables/hoses up backward due to tradition but they are made to be right hand front brake.
@@tristanwwsd Something for you to read: cyclingtips.com/2009/05/why-do-brakes-differ/#:~:text=For%20example%2C%20here%20in%20Australia,on%20the%20left-hand%20side.&text=You%20ride%20on%20the%20right,on%20the%20right-hand%20side.
Your handlebar clamp plate is upsidedown on the Kona. The raceface logo should be right side up.
Internal cable routing lol
Oh ya icr sucks but looks great. I will never own another frame with it
@@LoveMTB truly a pain for hydraulic lines, mine even has internally routed cables in the rear triangle for the brake ffs
No need for bleed block for bleeding levers. Bleed block is for bleeding the calipers so you don’t get oil on your pads. It’s nonsense when people say for both so you don’t put too much oil in lines. Countless lever bleeds with caliper on disc, never an issue. Total waste of time.
What if you don't have the insert and the plunger(Olive) say, you are installing a used brake, how do you get the insert and the plunger(Olive) since you can't reuse the old ones. I will wait. You see, everything isn't always ideal as you demonstrate in video dear content creator, some people like me just can't always afford new brakes that come with everything.
And again, when you cut the rear brake cable for the bike with the internal routing, why didn't any oil come out? I thought shimano brakes are already filled with oil and also bled. All these information when left out creates nothing but confusion.
I'm banging my head on the desk.
im not sure why, aside from profits, ppl are pushing disc brakes for road bikes... so much hassle
With all the riders switching over to carbon they had to move to disc due to safety reasons. The braking surface on carbon doesn't work like aluminum did.
thanks for the video, glad i saw this.. i have a question i forgot to put back the rubber cover after shortening the hose ( I already tightened the the connecting nut), do i need to use new olive and pin if i will remove the hose from the lever so i can put back the cover? thanks
@@LoveMTB if I manage to pull out the insert can i cut the hose just beside the olive? So it will not get that short.
Excellent video. Thanks!
Thank you!!