I had the same issue with 90hz bass issues. Once I switched out my audio control lc2i. That problem went away. I have 6x meso 6.5 with a taramps md3k. The Audio contra starts to roll off at 33 hz. Get rid of it and you get much more output below 35hz.
@@mendytregle9361 I am using the lc2i for the door speakers as well as the remote wire source. For the subs I am using a standard passive line level converter.
I don't get it, but to each their own I guess. You could have went with 2 high powered 12's just as easily and blown those 6.5's away. Instead of the box being long and flatter, it would have simply taken up the space behind the seat under the rear deck still leaving the rest of your trunk available. With a proper beauty panel you wouldn't even know the sub box was in there.
But I would then lose ability to use my folded seats for extra storage. I already tried using the stock 6x9 area for a box; I simply didn't work aesthetically or physically. Thanks for the suggestion. Keep them coming.
What is the point of hitting 140db? Is there a prize involved? I don't see this winning any SPL contests or drag races so why care what a 1 second fart can do?
Cool idea, almost like a raised floor in the trunk that still leaves enough room for cargo on top with decent amount of cone area and motor force. Might not get super loud but must kick you pretty good
This is why I love this channel. You step outside of the standard build always. Do you accept commissions on box building? I'd proudly rock a box built by you.
Another great video. Nice editing on the intro! Looking great. This video makes me want to go build one of these. Great output and LF extension for such a small driver. The enclosure is a really nice design, love that it leaves ample room to actually use the trunk. Ill have to put this on my list of projects to do :)
This is an awesome build! I was thinking of trying a similar type build low profile but down firing. 3 10's or maybe 4 8's but this definitely shows how good the low profile box can perform
Try and close your air vents for the heater and lower the visors, tilt the seat all the way forward.... these are all tricks that us competitors use to squeak out a couple more tenths during testing till we figure out exactly what gives us our best score then we configure the car/truck that way when we pull into the lanes.... Should be able to get that 40 easily bro!
I want a custom box for my ram 2500 crew cab . Raise the back seat up about an inch and a half . So I can fit 2 12s OR 4 8s . But when you look in the back seat I don't want you to notice works been done . anyone know of a shop in the Houston area that can do the work .
The sub wiring and heat issue for first and last is an interesting problem. Would need to know more detail about the physical cable hookup. The diagram shows each subs set of coils in series, then each sub in parallel. Are you actually daisy chaining them? For example there is only one set of wires coming from the amp, going to the first sub, then from that sub to the next and so on? One thing to try is possibly running individual set of wires to each sub, if possible. Also each subs final impedance is not exactly the same from sub to sub, so there might be enough of a difference that some are getting hotter than others? You could try moving the subs around to see if that is the case. Other thing might be internal/external loading difference on the outer subs due to box (internal) or car interior (external). Quite a few factors to consider. I've only ever run 2 subs, so have not ran into that myself. Wonder if anyone else with a multi sub setup has seen this before.
Also * With those 6" drivers, did you consider building T-Lines? Might seem bizarre (admittedly a substantial amount more MDF involved) but 6 individual (or) 3 dual driver ransmission line enclosures might get you closer to the theoretical function perimeters for those drivers. I know how engineers are taught to run numbers when they are looking at poly-values in engineered 'whatever-it-is' they are drawing up - and it usually works well - from beam-loading of slab floors to surface areas of driver cones, port sizes and tuning ranges, etc. BUT .... Real-world functionality sometimes means that portions of the systems take of OTHER characteristics than expected and designed for .. Example - Aviation wings on jet liners, what theorized pathway shows the airflow moving in oftentimes turned out be a fatal flaw in the aerodynamic behavior of the design at low speed compared to the forecasted behavior of the wing performance at crusing speed .... Some of you may be saying WTF does a jets wings have to do with a dang subwoofer box?? Answer to that is - THEY ARE BOTH SCIENCES OF AIR BEING COMPRESSED, MOVED, ACCELERATED AND DECELERATED, FORCED INTO LOW PRESSURE STATES, AND ULTIMATELY WE ARE HARNESSING NATURE AND BENDING IT TO OUR WILL !! There's just as much Art and Science to be tapped into with these 5 subwoofers in his Chevy as there was when Kelly Johnston built the SR-71 back in the 1960s !!
I love the builds that use multiple small subs to make lots of bass. Great job. I'm sure it's fun to see the look on people's face when they say " Really those are sixes" right after you bust their ear drums 🤣 ! And you can still put groceries in the trunk. Awesome
I did a 1x10 Gas alpha ( 60dollar sub ), made a custom box. in window passanger side i got 137.70db on 42hz. 700wrms. sub rated to 350wrms and the shops box recommendation was 38hz, but i build it a little bit to small so i flipped the sub to get the last liters i missing :) worked great. The car was a opel vectra c wagon ( shitty car to build in ) and no sound attenuation, in right car and sound attenuation im sure it would hit 140db. Have a SSA spl meter, and love it :D
Have you experimented with having woofers and Port aiming to the rear versus just the port to the rear or port and woofer towards the front? I'm just curious if you did and what your conclusions were. I have always been a woofer or woofer and port aimed towards the back kind of dude, but I am curious how good this setup sounds since the port is aimed towards the rear. I never have liked any subwoofer that was aimed towards the front honestly. In any enclosure.
Hey man if i am not mistaken you could build a very very veeeeeery nice system with two 18’s or two 15’s in “free air” walling off behing the rear seats…i have two FI ib315v2 with the magnet towards the rear seats and they sound awesome…That principle can work also with higher wattage systems..
I agree. The camera really doesn't pickup the movement I'm seeing with my eyes. Mostly due to the framerate (30fps) being close to the actual frequency (30Hz) with causes the subs to look like a still shot; or standing still.
Someone made an interesting remark that has never left my thoughts...."Why the heck would I need to measure how loud it is in the kick, I'm not listening from down there!". I initially agreed and the response is what made me pause and ponder. Another guy responded, "well the mids are in the doors, it's probably to measure how loud you need to be to match your mids"... I'm still pondering this today.
It’s just a “standardized” location for metering, the floor & firewall being the constants in the equation. Basically giving every vehicle a similar metering location to be compared. Makes record keeping more accurate.
It’s just a “standardized” location for metering, the floor & firewall being the constants in the equation. Basically giving every vehicle a similar metering location to be compared. Makes record keeping more accurate.
the heat issue you spoke of on the first and last woofers should be correctable and extra db attained if you would use equal length wire to each woofer from a central junction blocks on both sides of the wiring positive and negative ( in short the wire length differences are resulting in micro second differences in phase shifts of the woofers being most notable on the shortest and longest runs of wiring with the subs having to work harder to compensate from the phase shift and box rise )
What do you get when the Chevy is running? I believe you would hit your goal with it. Plus did you upgrade the charging system and what size and quality wire are you using? Is CCA or OFC and the voltage the amp is getting?
Awsome Video Sir👍🏿 Did the software already have the measurements of your vehicle, or did you enter them? I'd like more info on this program, Id love to build my own enclosure. I too is going with CT sounds (4 Meso 8"s ).. Wanting a spare tire build in "19 Terrain. Thanks🤜🏿🤛🏾 Thank you in advance!
those 6.5s are bangers I had 4 of them on a strapped pair of ct2000s and absolutely nobody believed I only had 6.5s ct is something special at the price point
I mimic your design in winisd and according to your sketchup design, This box is tuned at aprox 33hz, for 1.5ft3 here are my observation. Please correct me if I am wrong, please apologize if I made some mistakes. Ques no 1. I input 5000W system input in winisd and the cone excursion went all the way up to 29 mm@48hz is that safe???? Ques 2. In winisd in the SPL section, the software shows 128dB @ 33hz (peak) @ 8000W of power, I got 130dB@ 33hz Cone excursion 36.6 mm(47.82Hz) isn't it too high? Ques no 3. @ 5000W of power, in the rear port velocity section, win isd shows chuffing @ 31Hz @ 84.5 m/s. Isn't it too high??? Ques 4 How does your SPL meter show 140dB but in Winisd it shows 130dB @ 8000W of input power? Ques 5. Did you use DATS to get t/s parameters because the values you insert in winisd is different from the official website . According to me, you are overpowering these subs. this system won't last long and this box seems to have WAY TOO much chuffing.
Curious how dividers or baffles at a 45* angle \ (about half the length of the 1st chamber depth) would impact the sound? [ ex: ___\ ___\, or __\__\__\, or _\_\_\_\_\_\ ] note: the underscore "_" represents a driver. my thinking is the baffles \ will help mitigate back wave cancelation and direct air movement towards the port opening btwn the front and back chambers. plus, the baffles act as a box supports. does CT make a 4" sub? a t-line or horn with a 4"sub would be nice. 👍
The math doesn't add up to 5,000 watts out of woofers that doesn't make 1,000 RMS. The woofers are only 400 RMS an 800 peak. So maybe put the right RMS power. Because that would be around 2,000 RMS far cry from 5,000 wat RMS.
Your editing skills have gotten wild bro!👏👏👏 honestly on my smart bass 5k I have all filters off. They're just crap. I did just order a prv dsp tho. I don't like much bass above 40hz so I wanna tone it down.
I like the ct sounds! I went with the amps and budgeted the highs 6.5 hiphonics 3 ways ( d..... loud ) and the 15 inch burtus. I don't even have the amps in yet and seriously impressed! Honestly bro first you should build box upwards not only will it give you more space in the back behind, but you can center the port for even pressure and by stacking the speakers you will get better pressure In the cabin for higher spl!!!!!!! Lastly if you want clean power for all speakers sizes and it will handle the ohms cleanly!!!!! Like the plan bud not bad
I have 2 meso 10s in a 2012 Chev Impala on a SKV2 2500. They require and want more power they also want more room in my 1.25cu ft per sub box. While these fuckers pound so crazy my trunk hatch and back left door don't work as intended anymore. I did learn to get more room than min recommendation an more power than what I can put out with an agm, 300a alternator on good electrical. This build is what I was also thinking but was with 8s before the 6.5 came out. Looks mint tho.
To be fair, those small usb meters never tend to give a very accurate reading. Maybe update if you get a chance to get your hands on someones comp meter at a show or something, i bet you are 2 or 3 db up from what that meter is reading, especially given the frequency changes and the meter reads the same, it wouldnt be the same score, thats for sure. it would change to some degree. Those little mics just kinda suck. Those little 6.5's got that shit quaking. I run a single TXX-DBC4 15 on a skar rp2000 at 1ohm.
Yes, a dsp is almost a must if your serious about sound, and Budget Basshead is definitely serious. There are many different types and price ranges of dsp's, though. For a 4x6 channel unit the Helix DSP Mini is a good choice at $429. In a 6x8 the Steg SDSP68 is a great unit at about $275 with remote if bought overseas. Another great 8 channel dsp is the JL Audio TwK-88 at $550. I don't think he needs a digital input so all these are a good choice. Let me know if you need more info as I've been studying all the dsps currently on the market.
How is this box space saving or integrate at all with the vehicle? Instead of making a box that protrudes on most of the trunk, why not build a wall like enclosure with subs rear facing and the port towards the the front of the vehicle, or better yet, point it towards the rear deck and cut a hole into the rear deck sheet metal so the port air blows inside the cabin without having to ever fold the backrest?? An enclosure like it leaves you 14 cubic foot of full height trunk space available (based on numbers you provide and giving the box the same volume as your protruding one)
Quick question. Why do the mounting screws in the basket gasket look like they are warping and the gasket is all bent up? Were the screws too big? Or the gasket was cheap?
I’ve seen series parallel done 2 different ways The way you did it and Running separate + and - for each speaker directly to the amp instead of Daisy chaining them
I would for experimental purposes flip the box for subs to face the back also can flip the box for the port on the other side also could put the seat up on one side I had a single 12 in a custom ported box I made and it made a difference in just having the big side of the seats up and my port on the side of were the small part of the seat was down
Очень слабо, бесполезно и неэффективно, мощный усилитель, много сабвуферов, а результат 0(137) Когда в россии могут получить с 1 сабвуфера 12-15 дюймов, маленького короба, усилителя 1000-1500 ватт, те же цифры
Dsp that bad boy and get rid of that awful roll off. And make sure you don't have any "subsonic" filters in your equipment. Most of them are set up with a linkwitz at 24hz with a 24db/oct roll off. This can affect linear output all the way up to 50-60hz. A good dps to start with is the Dayton dsp-408. Very competitivly priced and packed with massive amounts of signal control. And can also double as a line out converter. Getting a DATS would be a good addition too for testing builds! -just some SQ guy's opinion. 😉
Ah... you turned the speakers around... nice... my OCD was driving me ctazy on the first video...LOL Good work!!!! LOVE THIS!... still my question is the same.... couldn't you take the box as it is and stand it up (with a rear-facing vent and the woofers facing up) and save even more trunk space? it would wall off your trunk and you couldn't use the truck pass-through, but you'd retain the flat floor of the trunk and only lose the equivalent of the depth of the box... just saying... 😁LOVE this box!
As far as the wiring,,, run straight 8g leads to each sub , then to distribution block , then to amp, (dont daisy chsin them, let the distribution block yake all the amperage)you might make it look cool in the possess, covering the block with plexiglass or something
Another great video. Big yes to a how to on sketch up. So why get new amps and not just add a signal processor? You hear a lot about Taramps cheap power but not so much about amazing onboard features. I Love my old Audiocontrol crossover. Is it too early to ask for a DSP for Xmas? LOL
I have four of them same speakers in a custom built box tuned to 36 HZ it is very loud and it also cracked my windshield just a little also if that program you have can map out a horn ported box you won't need as much power and be even louder but I only have an 1800 watt amp but nonetheless it's still very loud
So if that’s a split back seat if you put the 60% side up you will turn your trunk into another (box) and the seat opening will be a port like an 18 kicker iso
Interesting low profile quake generator, love it! I was curious about the tone generator you were using on your phone on the video, could you share the name of the app??
I would graciously welcome a lesson in more detail of WINISD Box problem.
I had the same issue with 90hz bass issues. Once I switched out my audio control lc2i. That problem went away. I have 6x meso 6.5 with a taramps md3k. The Audio contra starts to roll off at 33 hz. Get rid of it and you get much more output below 35hz.
Great tip. I'll have to try that.
What did you switch it with I have a lc2i pro
@@mendytregle9361 I am using the lc2i for the door speakers as well as the remote wire source. For the subs I am using a standard passive line level converter.
I don't get it, but to each their own I guess. You could have went with 2 high powered 12's just as easily and blown those 6.5's away. Instead of the box being long and flatter, it would have simply taken up the space behind the seat under the rear deck still leaving the rest of your trunk available. With a proper beauty panel you wouldn't even know the sub box was in there.
Hell 2 tens would give more output then those 5 6.5's. 2 sundown sa 10's for example would do a lot more damage using the same amount of airspace.
But I would then lose ability to use my folded seats for extra storage. I already tried using the stock 6x9 area for a box; I simply didn't work aesthetically or physically. Thanks for the suggestion. Keep them coming.
What is the point of hitting 140db? Is there a prize involved? I don't see this winning any SPL contests or drag races so why care what a 1 second fart can do?
With the super high FS almost 60 I think a fart box is the only thing u can do with em
One of my favorite builds on UA-cam so far, simple, neat, and unique.
I really appreciate that.
И она бесполезна. Ужасный короб, низкий результат
@@Bo0m1x Box looks great. Sounds like you’re talking about your old lady being useless and having a loose stank box…
Cool idea, almost like a raised floor in the trunk that still leaves enough room for cargo on top with decent amount of cone area and motor force. Might not get super loud but must kick you pretty good
This is why I love this channel. You step outside of the standard build always. Do you accept commissions on box building? I'd proudly rock a box built by you.
Another great video. Nice editing on the intro! Looking great. This video makes me want to go build one of these. Great output and LF extension for such a small driver. The enclosure is a really nice design, love that it leaves ample room to actually use the trunk. Ill have to put this on my list of projects to do :)
Glad it gave you some ideas! I'm still blown away by the performance.
This new style of video is awesome love seeing the thought behind the design. These are the type of videos i binge watch.
Glad you enjoy it! More to come.
This is an awesome build! I was thinking of trying a similar type build low profile but down firing. 3 10's or maybe 4 8's but this definitely shows how good the low profile box can perform
Wow, those little speakers are doing all that ?
Try and close your air vents for the heater and lower the visors, tilt the seat all the way forward.... these are all tricks that us competitors use to squeak out a couple more tenths during testing till we figure out exactly what gives us our best score then we configure the car/truck that way when we pull into the lanes.... Should be able to get that 40 easily bro!
I want a custom box for my ram 2500 crew cab . Raise the back seat up about an inch and a half . So I can fit 2 12s OR 4 8s . But when you look in the back seat I don't want you to notice works been done . anyone know of a shop in the Houston area that can do the work .
The sub wiring and heat issue for first and last is an interesting problem. Would need to know more detail about the physical cable hookup. The diagram shows each subs set of coils in series, then each sub in parallel. Are you actually daisy chaining them? For example there is only one set of wires coming from the amp, going to the first sub, then from that sub to the next and so on? One thing to try is possibly running individual set of wires to each sub, if possible. Also each subs final impedance is not exactly the same from sub to sub, so there might be enough of a difference that some are getting hotter than others? You could try moving the subs around to see if that is the case. Other thing might be internal/external loading difference on the outer subs due to box (internal) or car interior (external). Quite a few factors to consider. I've only ever run 2 subs, so have not ran into that myself. Wonder if anyone else with a multi sub setup has seen this before.
Also *
With those 6" drivers, did you consider building T-Lines? Might seem bizarre (admittedly a substantial amount more MDF involved) but 6 individual (or) 3 dual driver ransmission line enclosures might get you closer to the theoretical function perimeters for those drivers.
I know how engineers are taught to run numbers when they are looking at poly-values in engineered 'whatever-it-is' they are drawing up - and it usually works well - from beam-loading of slab floors to surface areas of driver cones, port sizes and tuning ranges, etc. BUT .... Real-world functionality sometimes means that portions of the systems take of OTHER characteristics than expected and designed for .. Example - Aviation wings on jet liners, what theorized pathway shows the airflow moving in oftentimes turned out be a fatal flaw in the aerodynamic behavior of the design at low speed compared to the forecasted behavior of the wing performance at crusing speed .... Some of you may be saying WTF does a jets wings have to do with a dang subwoofer box?? Answer to that is - THEY ARE BOTH SCIENCES OF AIR BEING COMPRESSED, MOVED, ACCELERATED AND DECELERATED, FORCED INTO LOW PRESSURE STATES, AND ULTIMATELY WE ARE HARNESSING NATURE AND BENDING IT TO OUR WILL !! There's just as much Art and Science to be tapped into with these 5 subwoofers in his Chevy as there was when Kelly Johnston built the SR-71 back in the 1960s !!
Thank you, I always admire your work and your videos. I enjoy watching them👍🏻✌🏻
Randomly found your page but love the videos
I love the builds that use multiple small subs to make lots of bass. Great job. I'm sure it's fun to see the look on people's face when they say " Really those are sixes" right after you bust their ear drums 🤣 ! And you can still put groceries in the trunk. Awesome
You're absolutely correct. I still get surprised when turning it up a little. Can't believe them little subs doing all of that!
I did a 1x10 Gas alpha ( 60dollar sub ), made a custom box. in window passanger side i got 137.70db on 42hz. 700wrms. sub rated to 350wrms and the shops box recommendation was 38hz, but i build it a little bit to small so i flipped the sub to get the last liters i missing :) worked great.
The car was a opel vectra c wagon ( shitty car to build in ) and no sound attenuation, in right car and sound attenuation im sure it would hit 140db.
Have a SSA spl meter, and love it :D
how do these sound compared to a big woofer
Have you experimented with having woofers and Port aiming to the rear versus just the port to the rear or port and woofer towards the front? I'm just curious if you did and what your conclusions were. I have always been a woofer or woofer and port aimed towards the back kind of dude, but I am curious how good this setup sounds since the port is aimed towards the rear. I never have liked any subwoofer that was aimed towards the front honestly. In any enclosure.
Hey man if i am not mistaken you could build a very very veeeeeery nice system with two 18’s or two 15’s in “free air” walling off behing the rear seats…i have two FI ib315v2 with the magnet towards the rear seats and they sound awesome…That principle can work also with higher wattage systems..
I hate that videos don't do justice but it really seems weak 5,000 and just wiggled the water a little 🤔
I agree. The camera really doesn't pickup the movement I'm seeing with my eyes. Mostly due to the framerate (30fps) being close to the actual frequency (30Hz) with causes the subs to look like a still shot; or standing still.
Someone made an interesting remark that has never left my thoughts...."Why the heck would I need to measure how loud it is in the kick, I'm not listening from down there!". I initially agreed and the response is what made me pause and ponder. Another guy responded, "well the mids are in the doors, it's probably to measure how loud you need to be to match your mids"... I'm still pondering this today.
It’s just a “standardized” location for metering, the floor & firewall being the constants in the equation. Basically giving every vehicle a similar metering location to be compared. Makes record keeping more accurate.
It’s just a “standardized” location for metering, the floor & firewall being the constants in the equation. Basically giving every vehicle a similar metering location to be compared. Makes record keeping more accurate.
Greetings, thanks for your videos. I would like to see the results from the same size box but sealed with 4 6.5” and 1 passive radiator.
Awesome video bro! I’m about to have to downsize from 15s to 8s or possible 10s due to another baby so I need my 3rd row seating now.
the heat issue you spoke of on the first and last woofers should be correctable and extra db attained if you would use equal length wire to each woofer from a central junction blocks on both sides of the wiring positive and negative ( in short the wire length differences are resulting in micro second differences in phase shifts of the woofers being most notable on the shortest and longest runs of wiring with the subs having to work harder to compensate from the phase shift and box rise )
What do you get when the Chevy is running? I believe you would hit your goal with it. Plus did you upgrade the charging system and what size and quality wire are you using? Is CCA or OFC and the voltage the amp is getting?
I LOVE IT ! YES PERFECT
Awsome Video Sir👍🏿
Did the software already have the measurements of your vehicle, or did you enter them?
I'd like more info on this program, Id love to build my own enclosure.
I too is going with CT sounds (4 Meso 8"s )..
Wanting a spare tire build in "19 Terrain.
Thanks🤜🏿🤛🏾
Thank you in advance!
those 6.5s are bangers I had 4 of them on a strapped pair of ct2000s and absolutely nobody believed I only had 6.5s ct is something special at the price point
The man the legend is truly back! Awesome video!
You know it! I need help finding a new amp. I have a poll coming soon.
I run the Ct Sounds At series and love them. I have a At23001.d on a skar Vfx 12d2 and man she pumps!
I would love to learn more about both of the programs I'm new to box building thanks for all the videos
great work !
I mimic your design in winisd and according to your sketchup design, This box is tuned at aprox 33hz, for 1.5ft3 here are my observation. Please correct me if I am wrong, please apologize if I made some mistakes. Ques no 1. I input 5000W system input in winisd and the cone excursion went all the way up to 29 mm@48hz is that safe???? Ques 2. In winisd in the SPL section, the software shows 128dB @ 33hz (peak) @ 8000W of power, I got 130dB@ 33hz Cone excursion 36.6 mm(47.82Hz) isn't it too high? Ques no 3. @ 5000W of power, in the rear port velocity section, win isd shows chuffing @ 31Hz @ 84.5 m/s. Isn't it too high??? Ques 4 How does your SPL meter show 140dB but in Winisd it shows 130dB @ 8000W of input power? Ques 5. Did you use DATS to get t/s parameters because the values you insert in winisd is different from the official website . According to me, you are overpowering these subs. this system won't last long and this box seems to have WAY TOO much chuffing.
Glad to see someone trying this design out. Been contemplating it for awhile. Interesting to see the subs forward and port back tho
Curious how dividers or baffles at a 45* angle \ (about half the length of the 1st chamber depth) would impact the sound? [ ex: ___\ ___\, or __\__\__\, or _\_\_\_\_\_\ ] note: the underscore "_" represents a driver. my thinking is the baffles \ will help mitigate back wave cancelation and direct air movement towards the port opening btwn the front and back chambers. plus, the baffles act as a box supports. does CT make a 4" sub? a t-line or horn with a 4"sub would be nice. 👍
I'm thinking about doing a similar setup. Four 6.5s though. What advise can you give on ported box? Thank you
I just did a box two skar 6.5...35hz...for my wife's Jeep and I'm Blown Away how good they sound
13:28 sounds like they're starting to bottom out.
The math doesn't add up to 5,000 watts out of woofers that doesn't make 1,000 RMS. The woofers are only 400 RMS an 800 peak. So maybe put the right RMS power. Because that would be around 2,000 RMS far cry from 5,000 wat RMS.
Your editing skills have gotten wild bro!👏👏👏 honestly on my smart bass 5k I have all filters off. They're just crap. I did just order a prv dsp tho. I don't like much bass above 40hz so I wanna tone it down.
Appreciate it!! I agree, the filters are junk.
I like the ct sounds! I went with the amps and budgeted the highs 6.5 hiphonics 3 ways ( d..... loud ) and the 15 inch burtus. I don't even have the amps in yet and seriously impressed! Honestly bro first you should build box upwards not only will it give you more space in the back behind, but you can center the port for even pressure and by stacking the speakers you will get better pressure In the cabin for higher spl!!!!!!! Lastly if you want clean power for all speakers sizes and it will handle the ohms cleanly!!!!! Like the plan bud not bad
I'd love to get close to 120 with my setup 🙈🤷🏾♂️👍🏾🙏🏾 Another awesome video
I have 2 meso 10s in a 2012 Chev Impala on a SKV2 2500. They require and want more power they also want more room in my 1.25cu ft per sub box. While these fuckers pound so crazy my trunk hatch and back left door don't work as intended anymore. I did learn to get more room than min recommendation an more power than what I can put out with an agm, 300a alternator on good electrical. This build is what I was also thinking but was with 8s before the 6.5 came out. Looks mint tho.
To be fair, those small usb meters never tend to give a very accurate reading. Maybe update if you get a chance to get your hands on someones comp meter at a show or something, i bet you are 2 or 3 db up from what that meter is reading, especially given the frequency changes and the meter reads the same, it wouldnt be the same score, thats for sure. it would change to some degree. Those little mics just kinda suck. Those little 6.5's got that shit quaking. I run a single TXX-DBC4 15 on a skar rp2000 at 1ohm.
Yo you really be doing the MOST with these lil speakers🙃 SUBSCRIBED 🔊
Looks great 👌
Get a dsp fam love the setup good to see you’re back brother 💯💪🏾
Yes, a dsp is almost a must if your serious about sound, and Budget Basshead is definitely serious. There are many different types and price ranges of dsp's, though. For a 4x6 channel unit the Helix DSP Mini is a good choice at $429. In a 6x8 the Steg SDSP68 is a great unit at about $275 with remote if bought overseas. Another great 8 channel dsp is the JL Audio TwK-88 at $550. I don't think he needs a digital input so all these are a good choice. Let me know if you need more info as I've been studying all the dsps currently on the market.
Nice, the port looks like transmission line design.
How is this box space saving or integrate at all with the vehicle? Instead of making a box that protrudes on most of the trunk, why not build a wall like enclosure with subs rear facing and the port towards the the front of the vehicle, or better yet, point it towards the rear deck and cut a hole into the rear deck sheet metal so the port air blows inside the cabin without having to ever fold the backrest?? An enclosure like it leaves you 14 cubic foot of full height trunk space available (based on numbers you provide and giving the box the same volume as your protruding one)
I wonder if I could fit(6) of these 6.5 mesos on a 2015 gmc sierra crew cab and what size amp i could use to push all (6)
Daaaameee... This box is the really d33p thr04t with a very small mouth! LOL
Quick question. Why do the mounting screws in the basket gasket look like they are warping and the gasket is all bent up? Were the screws too big? Or the gasket was cheap?
I’ve seen series parallel done 2 different ways
The way you did it and
Running separate + and - for each speaker directly to the amp instead of Daisy chaining them
Nice
I'm gonna have to learn how to build this for 4 of those. I'm very interested in your work
I would for experimental purposes flip the box for subs to face the back also can flip the box for the port on the other side also could put the seat up on one side I had a single 12 in a custom ported box I made and it made a difference in just having the big side of the seats up and my port on the side of were the small part of the seat was down
I was doing 137db @ 35hz with 1 of those Meso 8s on about 1000 watts in my mustang
Очень слабо, бесполезно и неэффективно, мощный усилитель, много сабвуферов, а результат 0(137)
Когда в россии могут получить с 1 сабвуфера 12-15 дюймов, маленького короба, усилителя 1000-1500 ватт, те же цифры
Do you have a copy of the exact plan please as i have 4x6.5s that need a new home 😘
Solid build and information!
that's freaking awesome, I'm changing my setup right away
This has re-sparked my love of car audio. Thanks
8 inch would have sounded much better but cool build.
Still sad it's not supported on Chromebook
I'd like to know more about the software tools used.
It reminds me of the bazooka days.
Toppp
Thinking about doing this box in my show car
Do u think it would be louder if u face the box the other way
want to do. ask for details.Thank you.
Room for groceries matters good build my guy
Dsp that bad boy and get rid of that awful roll off. And make sure you don't have any "subsonic" filters in your equipment. Most of them are set up with a linkwitz at 24hz with a 24db/oct roll off. This can affect linear output all the way up to 50-60hz. A good dps to start with is the Dayton dsp-408. Very competitivly priced and packed with massive amounts of signal control. And can also double as a line out converter. Getting a DATS would be a good addition too for testing builds!
-just some SQ guy's opinion. 😉
Funny you should mention the Dayton 408. I have the gen1 version and its currently not being used for anything. Thanks for the suggestion.
I want 4 these under my rear seat of my dodge ram
Ah... you turned the speakers around... nice... my OCD was driving me ctazy on the first video...LOL Good work!!!! LOVE THIS!... still my question is the same.... couldn't you take the box as it is and stand it up (with a rear-facing vent and the woofers facing up) and save even more trunk space? it would wall off your trunk and you couldn't use the truck pass-through, but you'd retain the flat floor of the trunk and only lose the equivalent of the depth of the box... just saying... 😁LOVE this box!
6.5 need huge box to produce bass
I'm actually surprised it doesn't reach above 138. 45" of cone.
I bet you could put more power on those subs
not sure how your getting over 2000k watts...you have 5 speakers @ 400 watts RMS each
As far as the wiring,,, run straight 8g leads to each sub , then to distribution block , then to amp, (dont daisy chsin them, let the distribution block yake all the amperage)you might make it look cool in the possess, covering the block with plexiglass or something
Another great video. Big yes to a how to on sketch up. So why get new amps and not just add a signal processor? You hear a lot about Taramps cheap power but not so much about amazing onboard features. I Love my old Audiocontrol crossover. Is it too early to ask for a DSP for Xmas? LOL
What’s the total cost for this build
Are these 6.5’s going to destroy your car like the Peerless STW 350 was going to do?
Not exactly 😀
I have four of them same speakers in a custom built box tuned to 36 HZ it is very loud and it also cracked my windshield just a little also if that program you have can map out a horn ported box you won't need as much power and be even louder but I only have an 1800 watt amp but nonetheless it's still very loud
So if that’s a split back seat if you put the 60% side up you will turn your trunk into another (box) and the seat opening will be a port like an 18 kicker iso
What happens if you build it like a ramp and have even more trunk space?
Are you running a DSP set up?
My man, let’s get a video on WinISD AND SketchUp!!
Added a bit more detail to WinISD in my latest video: ua-cam.com/video/qfJdedsIo40/v-deo.html
If you wasn't going for cargo space. There's enough room to fit another box of 5 on top for a total of 10 subs! You woud hit your goal then.
Interesting low profile quake generator, love it! I was curious about the tone generator you were using on your phone on the video, could you share the name of the app??
R. I. P. COLMAN THEDINGER!!!
We also need one on sketchup please
Beautiful box
More information on the software
Would love 2 build a box like yours with 3 or 4 8s in my 5th gen 4runner.
I would definitely get rid of the taramps amp and use a half bridge instead of full bridge amplifiers
Nice 1/24 scale axial pick up truck Good taste!!!!
Thanks 👍
19:56 what’s the name of the song
Glad to see you uploaded. I was concerned something had happened to you.
Very informative video
Glad you liked it. I have more to come.