The Best Glue for Puppet Makers : Contact Cement 101
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- Опубліковано 15 лип 2024
- #ContactCement #Glue #maker
Here are a few of my favorite glues I use for making puppets.
Master Contact Cement
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Barge Contact Cement
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Weldwood Contact Cement
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Foam:
www.foamonline.com
Cube & Rectangular
Foam Type: Dry Fast (2.15 lb)
Firmness: Medium
Length: 24 inches
Width: 48 inches
Height: 1 inch
About the channel~
I am a maker/performer. I primarily work on projects using puppetry but I also do projects that are fashion design, cosplay, costuming, set building, and much more. On this channel, I have building videos, Shop Tips, time-lapse build etc.
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I’m telling you, you have a video for everything! Thanks to your videos my questions are quickly and easily answered!
I recently used a glue called Duall which worked great also!
Just got home from a three-day puppet-building workshop where we used Duall 88 contact cement. I think it's going to be my new favorite! I've used Barge and Weldwood, and they're both great, but the Duall was just all-around easier to use.
I’ll check it out!
Thanks! This was an awesome video!! The production quality was great! I usually use weld wood for my puppets and it works great, plus I love how you can get it anywhere.
Thank You Adam for this lecture ^_^ I'm a little bit carefull with usingBUTAPREN (polish version of contact cement) , because in the past i had neurological problems and spent it about two weeks in hospital. Now I am smarter after this video :)
I haven't made a puppet yet but after watching multiple videos from your channel I feel as confident as I probably ever will going into it for the first time! Your channel is so awesome and you do a great job answering basically every question someone could have throughout your videos. Thank you!
Awesome, Adam. It's totally awesome sauce. 😎
Awesome
I've used the Barge and the WeldWood glues and they both work fine, but I most often find myself using 3M's yellow Weatherstripping Adhesive. It comes in a squeeze tube, so it's quick and easy to apply along a seam, then just spread with a foam scrap. The convenience of the squeeze tube makes a big difference for me. I use it just like contact cement: spread it on both pieces, let it dry, and put them together for an instant bond.
Cool
I use elmers rubber cemment I use it when attaching the mouth plates because if the lip line isn't even you can easily fix it
I asked around in the Puppet nerd Facebook group for a European alternative to these Glues and Pattex is available in Sweden! It seems to have similar qualities as Barge/master. It kinda looks the same. And probably has a similar smell. I’m using a respirator for my next build!
Wow these comments humble me cause I didnt kno there was such a big market for puppets😯my son is 10 n so into puppets n animation n animatronics n hes even wanting to make a mascot costume. Thought it was a lost art but wow ur really informative. Thank u
I buy my glue bulk and place it in individual size coke plastic bottles. For application I have lids with small holes in them which allows me to use the bottle for applying glue and change out the tops for storage, Very little glue fumes escape and the glue doesn't thicken as fast as an open can. At the and I just throw the container away.
Nice hair Adam!
حاجة جميلة💖💖💖💖
Barge is the Go too for me
Vaseline on the rim of the can is a great tip!
Since I began leather work, I only use two contact cements. Master and Aquiline 315 (water based). The Master contact cement is used by cobblers in shoe repair. So, for my puppet work, it is only Master. I do know some puppet builders who use a 3M gasket adhesive. No matter which contact cement you use, get the their thinner. It will prolong the life of a can. Also, a thin layer of petroleum jelly on the threads will keep the lid from sticking.
I've used all these glue barge even comes non toxic and in a tube now
But there's one that was not mentioned is Elmer's contact cement you can even buy it at a grocery store
It has gotten me out of alot of jams when my other glues ran out and its cheaper and strong when dry.
TIP: Adam's link for Weldwood has it listed for $16.00, but Joann Fabrics has it online for around $7.50.
They are probably different size bottles.
LePage heavy duty Contact Cement we have in Canada...at Micheals there a barge brand in blue can...not sure how good it is
I was wondering if you could make a video/series of how to make a non hooped sack puppet? I was wondering how to make one and I couldn’t follow along and I was really struggling . I would really appreciate it.
I’ve been using DAP quite a bit because it’s can size. Super inexpensive too.
I am a newbie here. And I am in love with your channel thus far. Question: I restore the 1970s Marx Johnny West Series on their horses. Would this glue be good at repairing legs n tails? Super glue is not so much super and hot glue is not so much strong. Been looking for a strong glue for my projects. Thank you, Debs from Texas ps also what about holding figurines in water snow globes?
Is the masters glue good for gluing fabric and felt ?
Can we use clay to make puppet eyes.
Hey Adam , how are you doing bro. Would you make a video on how to add hair for a female monster puppet like muppets like zoey, Abby etc from sesame street
Unfortunately I discovered that wet setting on fleece can bleed the contact cement through to The outside if you apply it too thick. I don’t guess there’s any thing that cleans contact cement off of fleece?
Where to get for
I can't find any of these here in France, is there any other brand that does this kind of glue ? I don't want to use hot glue
Is it enough to just open my window very widely ? Respirators are quite expensive and i can't do anyhing on my balcony because i have renovation
Great video as always. Are you planning on sale puppets? Like before on eBay or direct from yourself.
He seems to be available for commission if you contact him through the right channels!
Hi Adam I am making a venus fly trap puppet of my own design, I have made the fleece covering pattern but I don't know how to make the foam pattern do you have any videos on this?
m.ua-cam.com/video/2CJ7pdF3I-s/v-deo.html
Idk if this is what you would need but I try to help lol, hope your puppet turns out
how dangerous are these when they're dry? what would be safe but effective to use on kids' toys?
so if i put a big hole in my wall that goes to outside would that count as a well-ventilated area
This is a great question that can not be answered
Hello
You’re my sisters art teacher lol
E0
I tend to use woodweld, the red can, for many things. However it's not appropriate for everything. As a hobby builder I've learned there is no single glue appropriate for every application.
Here's even a better way to apply glue with no smell and no stringy mess and thats a plastic applicator bottles
No brush just apply from bottle nozzle and cap it when done.
"vapors toxic", he says, not wearing a ventilator... and inside. heheheheheheheheee
I swear by Weldwood. Walmart has it for a crazy good price for what you get and it serves me well for all the projects I've used it on so far.
I find hot glue only really works for detail work, beyond that the seams don't hold up near as well as contact cement. For a craft it's fine
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Some other contact cement tips.
Dip a piece of "scot" (Reticulated 35 ppi aka Polyester urethane foam) or upholstery foam (most foam available to consumers aka Polyether urethane foam) into a can of contact cement or a glue pot.
If applying to L200, Zote or any other closed cell foam, just wipe away the bit that wants to drip everywhere and take what's in the foam and 'brush' it on to the foam. You can get a much better coverage and do it a bit faster like this.
If applying to a "scot" or "upholstery" foam you should 'blot' the foam on some cardboard or a piece or plastic (Like Delron or any plastic that doesn't chemically react with toluene (In the red can for Barge and Weldwood. I'm not certain about Master.) As you blot the foam a few times you will see strings of cement. At that point you start blotting onto the soft foam, allowing the stringy cement to creep into the pores as it dries. Once dry, this will allow you to really squeeze the seams together. It will ensure the foam is together but will reduce the chance of crushed seams.
Also, if you let the cement dry a little longer than needed then you can hit it with a hair dryer (I assume a heat gun too but be very very careful.)
If you have soft foams glued together recently you can also hit them with a hair dryer to heat the glue up a bit and pull the pieces apart. Or if you have crushed seams it can pop them back out to try again on connecting the pieces.
It's not as simple for the stiffer closed cell foams. You can grab some Barge thinner (Toluene) and stick it in a small applicator bottle to slowly squirt the thinner into the seam and slowly work the pieces apart.
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