You might want to paint that muzzle orange. Always a good practice for toy guns, so they are never confused with the real thing. The profile of this, and the similarity of the natural ply color to the FDE color that is popular on some real pistols these days make it more risky than most.
Forget about the people who know it isn't real, the people who don't know it isn't real may have an issue. Really good tip, very common in nerf and airsoft toy guys
A very nice master class in the work flow of CNC, covers a load of stuff that often gets glossed over. My approach with having multiple layers is to include some alignment holes that you can put screws through which aligns everything and can clamp it all together while the glue dries. After that, remove the screws or keep them as you prefer.
Great tutorial James, as usual. I made this during the week for one of the guys at work. Everyone loved it. I did, however make a small change to the trigger. You probably noticed if you pull the trigger too far back, it causes the wheel to get jammed on the little "leg" in the handle. I shaped and glued on of the offcuts and stuck it behind the trigger to restrict it's movement. You can now rapid fire 6 rubber bands with no jamming and live to fight another day. :)
Excellent. Mine didn't jam that way, what happened with mine after I used it for a bit was it was slipping on the catch, so it would fire all the bands in one go. But I suspected people might have slightly different build issues so I might tweak the design again.
@@JamesDeanDesigns I found similar. As the maker of it, we are generally gentle with testing, but when I handed to the giant German I work with, the first thing he did was pull the trigger really hard. Bad German, bad. :)
I think that you could make it longer for the size band you are shooting. Thin plywood is not strong across it's grain, many thin layers in opposite directions help . For the spoked wheel It looks like you had two layers but had room for three or even four. It would be beneficial maybe to cut the wheel out of acrylic that has no grain. I think you have room inside to make a dart launcher as a surprise last shot.
The plywood held up fine to be honest. Ply is cross grain anyway so as long as the sheets are bonded together well then it should be sufficient. The main flaw was the trigger mechanism wore down a little over time so that could be tweaked. Probably a few mods I could have made but first time I've ever made something like this to be honest so was pretty happy with it.
Hi, It is because all the files are for Lightburn. I have just uploaded an SVG into that file which should open in Inkskape but I'm not 100% sure if I made some minor adjustments in lightburn or not so see how you get on.
I’d make this with my 3018 Pro but it makes this awful squeaking/screeching when the X moves. It cuts (laser and spindle) don’t get me wrong but it’s so intrusive it makes me not use it. I’ve tried checking for square and level, x axis ends placed correctly and lubed everything with silicon grease. Can you recommend a video or tutorial that might address this please. At my wits end. Thanks, good video, my son wants one.
I have a video a out correcting the alignment but sounds like you have already done that. If its squealing even with lubricant then there is a chance your backlash nut maybe in too tight it's meant to have a tiny amount of play but if its been pushed in really hard then it may not have that wiggle room. Have taken the full X axis apart and tried less pressure on the backlash nut?
@@JamesDeanDesigns ok I see so it’s supposed to have fwd and bwd clearance, it does ‘swivel’ left and right in its seat slightly around the lead screw, there is about .5mm either side of it. I’ll look at what you’ve suggested though and watch your video. Really appreciate your responding. Ta.
Has it done it from day 0 or did it start doing it after being ok for a while ? If the latter, has some swarf of other nastiness got stuck in the thread. Can you run it over the full range of the thread, is it the same over the whole range ? Maybe inspect for damage to the thread. Is it the same with motor / laser in or empty (ie does the extra weight change it ?)
@@transientaardvark6231 I got off to a slow start with it but it wasn’t long after assembly but I’ve used it maybe 15 hours total with 9 of those in laser mode
(You've probably already cut it) I used my CNC and 1/8" endmill and adjusted holes for what I have. Used 1/4" BB ply for the main body rather than doubling up 1/8" ply. (Having trouble with trigger slippage though.)
I think I included the SVG files didnt I? if so then you should easily be able to convert these to DXF files hopefully. There are lots of free online converters, if not then I'll try and get them done for you
Nicely done, James! But I live in the USA. Carrying something like this around could get you shot for real! Seems the cops here have a difficult time distinguishing between real guns and cell phones 😆.
bullshit. Looks nothing like a real gun. Very rare it happens. It usually dark and the dumb person decides to point a real looking bb or airsoft gun at a cop.
You might want to paint that muzzle orange. Always a good practice for toy guns, so they are never confused with the real thing. The profile of this, and the similarity of the natural ply color to the FDE color that is popular on some real pistols these days make it more risky than most.
Didn't know that was even a thing. Pinned this post for others to see 👍
Forget about the people who know it isn't real, the people who don't know it isn't real may have an issue. Really good tip, very common in nerf and airsoft toy guys
The decorative pieces really step it up from "neat" to "cool, my kids would love that."!
Thank you. It does finish it off and lots of variations can be made
@@JamesDeanDesigns Like the boys' names, so they know which one is theirs when they break them!
Cut tiny holes for cocktail sticks to align all the layers together
A very nice master class in the work flow of CNC, covers a load of stuff that often gets glossed over. My approach with having multiple layers is to include some alignment holes that you can put screws through which aligns everything and can clamp it all together while the glue dries. After that, remove the screws or keep them as you prefer.
That's a brilliant idea and I should have included it 👍
Great tutorial James, as usual. I made this during the week for one of the guys at work. Everyone loved it. I did, however make a small change to the trigger. You probably noticed if you pull the trigger too far back, it causes the wheel to get jammed on the little "leg" in the handle. I shaped and glued on of the offcuts and stuck it behind the trigger to restrict it's movement. You can now rapid fire 6 rubber bands with no jamming and live to fight another day. :)
Excellent. Mine didn't jam that way, what happened with mine after I used it for a bit was it was slipping on the catch, so it would fire all the bands in one go. But I suspected people might have slightly different build issues so I might tweak the design again.
@@JamesDeanDesigns I found similar. As the maker of it, we are generally gentle with testing, but when I handed to the giant German I work with, the first thing he did was pull the trigger really hard. Bad German, bad. :)
@@OscarDaFish 🤣🤣🤣
I think that you could make it longer for the size band you are shooting. Thin plywood is not strong across it's grain, many thin layers in opposite directions help . For the spoked wheel It looks like you had two layers but had room for three or even four. It would be beneficial maybe to cut the wheel out of acrylic that has no grain. I think you have room inside to make a dart launcher as a surprise last shot.
The plywood held up fine to be honest. Ply is cross grain anyway so as long as the sheets are bonded together well then it should be sufficient.
The main flaw was the trigger mechanism wore down a little over time so that could be tweaked.
Probably a few mods I could have made but first time I've ever made something like this to be honest so was pretty happy with it.
Fantastic job, James. You have a knack of making everything look so simple 🤣
absolutely brilliant James 🏆🏆👍
Ty so much, will help with my laser gun project
You are a star James brilliant video and thanks for the files
Yup, going to have to make one of these. Great work as always.
Very nice, I will be making this for my grandson. The names Dean...... James Dean 😏
Excellent work mate, great little project
As always a great tutorial thanks. Could please do a video on how to set up Lightburns to work on a Genmitsu 4030Vs as mine is clashing ?
This is going to be an awesome project....thanks!! 🔫
where can i buy explosive rubber band?
The SVG file doesnt have the detailed parts
Hi James . Regards to my 3018 pro. What type of laser would you suggest I purchase for etching stainless steel? Love your stuff.
Hi James downloaded the files but I can't open them. I am trying to open them in Inkscape. Can you help please.
Nice! Looks realistic.. Maybe too realistic. I wouldn't want to have to answer any awkward questions at the airport..
it will be treated no different than a plastic Toy.
No me deja descargar los archivos.
James, Do you have an Etsy page?
i can not load the files into inkscape can you please help
Hi, It is because all the files are for Lightburn. I have just uploaded an SVG into that file which should open in Inkskape but I'm not 100% sure if I made some minor adjustments in lightburn or not so see how you get on.
I’d make this with my 3018 Pro but it makes this awful squeaking/screeching when the X moves. It cuts (laser and spindle) don’t get me wrong but it’s so intrusive it makes me not use it. I’ve tried checking for square and level, x axis ends placed correctly and lubed everything with silicon grease. Can you recommend a video or tutorial that might address this please. At my wits end. Thanks, good video, my son wants one.
I have a video a out correcting the alignment but sounds like you have already done that. If its squealing even with lubricant then there is a chance your backlash nut maybe in too tight it's meant to have a tiny amount of play but if its been pushed in really hard then it may not have that wiggle room. Have taken the full X axis apart and tried less pressure on the backlash nut?
@@JamesDeanDesigns ok I see so it’s supposed to have fwd and bwd clearance, it does ‘swivel’ left and right in its seat slightly around the lead screw, there is about .5mm either side of it. I’ll look at what you’ve suggested though and watch your video. Really appreciate your responding. Ta.
Has it done it from day 0 or did it start doing it after being ok for a while ? If the latter, has some swarf of other nastiness got stuck in the thread. Can you run it over the full range of the thread, is it the same over the whole range ? Maybe inspect for damage to the thread. Is it the same with motor / laser in or empty (ie does the extra weight change it ?)
@@transientaardvark6231 I got off to a slow start with it but it wasn’t long after assembly but I’ve used it maybe 15 hours total with 9 of those in laser mode
Great work, Very intricate. Do you think it would CNC with 1mm bit?
The little dowel parts would struggle, but you could just modify the design to use actual dowel instead and avoid those little parts.
(You've probably already cut it) I used my CNC and 1/8" endmill and adjusted holes for what I have. Used 1/4" BB ply for the main body rather than doubling up 1/8" ply. (Having trouble with trigger slippage though.)
@@richardfarwell6759 my trigger started to slip after a while as well, I think I need to adjust the design a little more
Very very good man
Hi James
Where do you download your files from.
Expand the description area below the video and you'll see some information. A link to the files will be in there 👍
It does not seem to be any files in the one drive
There is a zip file and its all in there. Just tested and all appears to be ok
@@JamesDeanDesigns got it thank you so much it is there now. Not sure why it was not showing up Thank you :)
Hi, Like your design ! is it possible to get drawings as .DXF
I think I included the SVG files didnt I? if so then you should easily be able to convert these to DXF files hopefully. There are lots of free online converters, if not then I'll try and get them done for you
Nicely done, James! But I live in the USA. Carrying something like this around could get you shot for real! Seems the cops here have a difficult time distinguishing between real guns and cell phones 😆.
bullshit. Looks nothing like a real gun. Very rare it happens. It usually dark and the dumb person decides to point a real looking bb or airsoft gun at a cop.
thank you bro James for these videos. please can i contact you. I need your help for my 3018 pro cnc.
Nah mate, I asked him a question on Instagram and he blocked me. Find somebody better