We have quite a few of the same struggles but I’m in the Ford spectrum. 1992 F250, sat for some years, just went through a bunch of stuff including the brakes. I’m in a 1993 F53 Class A that needs quite a bit of love. I’m in NW Oregon, struggling with the rust. I’m the caretaker of a large property here.
the long round end on the pliers is for installing the springs you tried to use it on the small spring first on the other side that is the correct end for the larger springs
On the back brake line I used a air hammer on the side of the soft side brake line putting a little pressure on the wrench side. It comes off with ease
Brother you did some things incorrect. When you bleed brakes you start with rear right ( furthest from mater cylinder) and last one left front (closest). You still have air in system. I own a 1990 3500 camper special (fleetside). It is a one ton without duallies, it is probably the best truck I've ever owned. My truck set ten years because I had heart surgery and it will still start right up. I think it has about 154,000 miles on it. I replaced the water pump when I bought it and a distributor, other than that tires and brakes......great truck.....got it in 98 or 99...and here we are in 2023..... excellent. Oops just remembered an alternator and radiator cap, not bad for about 25 years minus some down time for my recovery.
You should have at least sanded the drum surfaces with emery paper and surfaced the disc rotors while everything was out. New pads plus surfaced rotor would have given ultimate braking feel and performance.
Maybe you did not show it, but you did not replace the inner wheel seals, and the one was showing that it was leaking when you took it apart! Also you used "never seize" on everything but the brake adjustor threads, and the end caps, which is very important so they work properly! Also, watch a few video's on how to use the brake plyers properly, putting the springs on the way you did is a good way to injure your fingers! The straight end with out the knob, and the u-shaped end is how you slide the springs into place! Place the spring end on the shaft, and the u-shaped end on where you want the spring to hook on to, and slide it on! Keeps your fingers out of the way! For your first time, you did great!
That truck looks so much better than in the first vid when you got it running! CHEERS from HERE!
Awesome as always.Thanks for sharing and taking us along
We have quite a few of the same struggles but I’m in the Ford spectrum. 1992 F250, sat for some years, just went through a bunch of stuff including the brakes.
I’m in a 1993 F53 Class A that needs quite a bit of love.
I’m in NW Oregon, struggling with the rust.
I’m the caretaker of a large property here.
I am SO glad my car has four-wheel disc brakes. In fact, my '93 Class A P-30 chassis motorhome had four-wheel discs!
Happy Labor Day Safe travels and working Conditions
the long round end on the pliers is for installing the springs you tried to use it on the small spring first on the other side that is the correct end for the larger springs
On the back brake line I used a air hammer on the side of the soft side brake line putting a little pressure on the wrench side. It comes off with ease
great video! you covered everything for the job! Thanks
Brother you did some things incorrect. When you bleed brakes you start with rear right ( furthest from mater cylinder) and last one left front (closest). You still have air in system. I own a 1990 3500 camper special (fleetside). It is a one ton without duallies, it is probably the best truck I've ever owned. My truck set ten years because I had heart surgery and it will still start right up. I think it has about 154,000 miles on it. I replaced the water pump when I bought it and a distributor, other than that tires and brakes......great truck.....got it in 98 or 99...and here we are in 2023..... excellent. Oops just remembered an alternator and radiator cap, not bad for about 25 years minus some down time for my recovery.
i love the tutorial on your style axle removed. good camera work too. bet my is locked in by clips .thanks 1:03:50
Making Rusty great again 👍🏻
I use a pressure bleeder to do brakes, I have tried all the other methods with varying degrees of luck, pressure bleeding always worked
Reminds me of when I had to change mine in a Walmart parking lot on the 89 pace arrow
Great job thanks.
Hi nice job looking good 👍 stay safe
nice work man 👍
some fresh grease on those axles? Good Job!
Great!
You should have at least sanded the drum surfaces with emery paper and surfaced the disc rotors while everything was out. New pads plus surfaced rotor would have given ultimate braking feel and performance.
Maybe you did not show it, but you did not replace the inner wheel seals, and the one was showing that it was leaking when you took it apart! Also you used "never seize" on everything but the brake adjustor threads, and the end caps, which is very important so they work properly! Also, watch a few video's on how to use the brake plyers properly, putting the springs on the way you did is a good way to injure your fingers! The straight end with out the knob, and the u-shaped end is how you slide the springs into place! Place the spring end on the shaft, and the u-shaped end on where you want the spring to hook on to, and slide it on! Keeps your fingers out of the way! For your first time, you did great!
Cool
you need a long pipe its help too remove them wheels
Next time change to speed bleeders
If it pulls during braking my bet is a bad caliper.
Can you give me a brake a good brake job 😅😅😅😅😅 thanks much