Ordered the stuff and fixed it! thank you for uploading the video!!! So for everyone else. its not terribly hard but if youve never soldered anything, dont have the tools and consumables required it might be better for you to send it in for about 130 to proffesional
To those who are scared to do this themselves: 1.LCD Chinese (they all are anyway) -$17-25 on eBay 2.Flux/Rosin paste - $5 on eBay. 3. Soldering iron 20-30W no more.If you live in the US Walmart has $5 soldering irons that will work long enough to finish the job. Total ~$30 and some of your free time. You do not need to have a heat gun.Nice to have it but not required.You can use the soldering iron to heat a little and pull,heat and pull.The pins on the old screen cannot be saved. The cluster is held by two screws and it has 3 connectors on the back.Very easy to remove.There are plenty of videos on UA-cam. Take your time and disassemble the cluster.To remove the needles cut a sheet of paper and slide in between the plate and the needle.I use a fork to pry out the needle.Make sure you take pictures of the positions of the needles. I did this in 25 minutes and I have never soldered FPC cable before.(I do solder many other things though). TIP:Flux is your friend!You can hardly ever solder anything without flux.Apply and everything will be OK.For cleaning you can use cotton swabs and any alcohol.Vodka works best :))))
Cool video mate! Thanks to it I have bought a display from Minitools in Italy and I have repaired my instrument cluster. Keep doing these videos, please!!!
Hey, at 9:43 the soldering iron tip was clean or it still had tin in it? I just want to make sure before messing something up... Edit: and also, how much pressure do you apply with your hand when soldering the contacts? Or just with the soldering iron weight is enough Edit 2: Okay so this is doable but make sure to use leaded solder else you'll have a hard time melting it with a cheap soldering iron.
the hardest part seems to be putting it back together...how do you know if the dials are situated properly? what kind of resistance are you looking for to know it is in there correctly? i saw you spin them around a few times...without having a way to test it out of the car...how did you rig that setup anyway?, this seems like it would be very frustrating to put it all back in the car and have a dial not working.
Hi, do you have any web sites with wiring diagrams of these instruments or can u tell me on how pins u connect +12v and 0 (some photo with text or something ) or u connect more wires from power supply to instruments? Please and thank you
I understand that you used 30% air to avoid accidental desoldering of SMD but what is the temperature used for desoldering the FPC cable with the heat gun station?
@@HETPEZB Thanks, already done with the swap, used 420c and AMTECH flux, in 20 seconds the FPC was desoldered, soldered the new one and everything is OK now.
used this video to repair my cluster, but i was dumb enough to not be carefull where you told me to. ripped 3 connections of the main board, so now i am screwed... Do you maybe have any idea in wich way this would be fixable? Anyway much thanks for the great video ;-)
I did mine and it was perfect when I first tested it but now it shows all bright red and blank with no characters. Does it need some reset or adaptation?
great video . I have a 2004 Audi alloroad 2.5. The parking brake waring light has never worked , it does nt even light up when you first turn on the ignition . Would this be a broken binnacle or just a blown bulb ? many thanks.
I had this problem and all I had to do was resolder the old lcd and it's worked perfectly for 9 years. I think audi used low temp solder that becomes undone in 100 degree temps. I used normal 60/40 Kester.
fernarias , in your case, I guess, the problem wasn’t with the missing pixels (lines) but with the whole screen being blank completely. If this is the case it is an isolated issue. I didn’t see cold solder joints so far on those clusters in regards to the pixelation issue. There were, however, quite a few cases on Audi TT’s cold solder joints causing backlight to go off.
Hi I know this video is quite old now, but do you still do cluster repairs, my pixels on my a6 avant quattro C5 have died, I wonder if you could repair it, I'm in Spain, how much do you charge and how do I get it sorted??
Hello- I am wondering if you have any parts for that S4 cluster? I am looking for the complete set of white pointers for instruments to upgrade my Allroad from orange.
Hi! I have a Golf Mark 4 2001and the LCD display when is hot outside turns all red and when it's cold,, in winter , turns dark and you can not read the data. What can i do ? Could be something electric? Or i must change the display?
Hey! I did this following your steps, and I have some circuit board soldering experience. But when I re installed the cluster, the screen was just pure red.? Any thoughts? Or maybe a faulty lcd screen? It was an Amazon one BTW..
@Billy97ify , I don’t have a crystal ball, but since you said it was working for a little bit there is a chance the display is not good, but of course the soldering may be bad too and something just let go.
Interesting. Can i get away without using the heat gun? i only have one of those big ones at my disposal. And is flux also called soldering paste? Trying to translate so i can buy the supplies. cheeers.
Soldering paste is not the flux. It’s solder fractures. Not sure how to safely get away without the heat gun. Traces are very delicate and it’s easy to torn them off the board.
Question: In the odometer window, top row, after putting the unit together and installing it in the car, I read the word ”FUSE”. However, I find no bad fuse anywhere. Please help!
Question! SOS please help. I replaced my LCD, plugged it in and....nothing. The back light works, but no letters, no symbols, no nothing. Just the back light. The bottom two screens also do not display anything (date) & (miles) are both blank. What did I do wrong? I was so careful, but failed.
At 5 minutes 16 seconds what is that black round piece on the top right called ? What's it for I was replacing my screen and realized that was missing it was previously tampered with
Hello. in my car (seat exeo = audi a4 b6-7) back light of lcd disapered, but if i i put a lamp with a certain angle i can see the lcd data that are ok. Do i replace the screen ????? I dont have tested to connect the complete dismount instrumentation to see if background led are shining. Thanks for your help
Very nice explanatory video you made, thumbs up! - I have an Audi a4 b5 2001 model, but only with half size LCD. I cant really find a lot about them, but my LCD has a "Mind of it own" In outside temp like 18-19C the LCD works perfectly, when it hets up to 25-30C it starts to fade from top left diagonally towards bottom right to the point where its unreadable. Do you know this display/cluster? also it does not have the grey connector on the back. Is my LCD dead or is it some other component affecting my LCD? I appreciate your time.
Back in a days I did have 2001 A4 with a half display. Was doing exactly same thing as yours. Same problem as with the full size LCD - needs to be replaced. Circuit boards looks different, but the procedure is very similar.
Please check out the description under the video. You can make your choice based on the Audi model that you have Jaeger for TT or VDO for A4, A6 or Allroad .
How lucky do you consider yourself? You get the display with a more or less good quality picture after you purchase from how many different sellers on AliExpress 1-5-15 or never? All displays there looking absolutely identical on their picture, but have different brightness/contrast.
@Best Pixel Repair hey, if a couple of the "fingers?" or the connections on the board get lifted off during the removal of the old LCD Display is it possible too save or is the hole board shot??? Any help will be awesome!? Thank-you!
A lot of them (I would guess 60%) are actually unused at all. There is a good chance that the broken ones are among those :) And if they are lifted but not torn - you can carefully align them back.
Yes it is. It’s a divider between red and yellow zones. You can see the actual divider on the video as a white line after the LCD display is removed (around 7-8 minutes mark on the video)
Question : is it possible a faulty instrument cluster with or without a FIS LCD pixel fault can interfere or shorten the K-Line OBD2 or CAN Bus ? My A6 2.7t C5 2000 can not be scanned and diagnosed anymore the K-Line voltage on Pin 7 at the OBD2 Scanner Plug is missing. Besides the pixel fault on the cluster everything works but no communication (link error to scan tools). I believe the instrument cluster is the hub for OBD2 communication. I checked out all other OBD2 modules incl. the ECU. Audi says it must be the cluster which has been discontinued not available anymore. The termination resistor is far to high at 4.5M Ohm instead 120 Ohms on the CAN Bus High and Low. Green Plug Pin 28 K-Line, W-wire Pin 5 to ECU. Blue Plug Pin 25 Consumption signal something is not right there I guess.
Unfortunately we are not so deep into the Audi module communication, but if you are suspecting the cluster to be responsible for loosing the communication I would suggest to get a used cluster from 2000 A6, connect it and run the diagnostic. If the communication will resume - you'll know that the original cluster is bad. It will be a first step. Of course may be someone else could propose a better solution.
I think I tried that before in removing the data dialog (gateway) cluster it seems it needs to be connected. The terminal resistance on the data bus is not 120 Ohm it appears the cluster is causing that too. Instead 4.5 MOhm the voltage on the K-Line just 0.35 Volt to the OBD diagnose port. The CAN Bus may still work. I may be able to communicate with any other module on the data bus by removing the cluster not to the ECU to read fault data or delete. The airbag light came on after cold night I don't care either. I think I live with the problem the rest of the system gives me still ok and everythings works beside the OBD connection problem and the fragmented FIS display still can read "something". To find a second hand cluster and reprogarmme is also a hazzle. Anyway, thanks guys, as long as it still drives.. a new cluster which are not available anymore is a third of the retail value of my A6 2.7t Its now allergic agains outside computer and diagnose… LOL
The K-line goes to all the modules in the car. "Any module that happens to fail" such that it holds the k-line to 12V or Ground will prevent communication over the K-line entirely. Yes this sucks. In the 'old Audi' days all of the K-line wires from every module all terminated in 1 place - sort of a glob of connections. If there was a problem, you just unplugged them 1 by one until it worked. Then you instantly knew which module was at fault. Quite often an aftermarket radio installation would cause this. It isn't that easy anymore - there is no centralized interconnect of the K-linewires. So basically you just go around to all the modules and unplug them until the K-line comes back to normal. You of course start with the common ones to give K-line problems (ABS, radio), followed by the ones which are easiest to get to like the instrument cluster which is the hub. If you get them all unplugged and it's still shorted then you have a wiring problem - the actual K-line bus itself is shorted somewhere . If you can talk to everything but the ECU - you don't have a k-line problem, just an ECU problem. From the dealers diagnosis it seems that is not the case, though. Answers: 1 - I wasn't able to get a connection at all. In Program Options, I selected COM port and clicked Test, COM port was fine but interface was not found. 2 - Negative, can't connect to any module in the system. Won't even let me get through the COM port test. So, VW/Audi's on-board diagnosis system is sort of their version of 'no man's left behind'? Because ONE module, entire K-line network is disabled?? Dealer mentioned a term 'network failure', I guess that's what it means.. There must be an advantage of using such system, German engineers ain't stupid..Right? But from where I see...I don't see any advantage. It's just stupid............ Since there's no old fashion centralized interconnect panel thingy, I assume ECU is now centralized interconnect of every module. Oh and to clarify my knowledge, are there 7 main units related to K-line in B6 -Engine Control Module (ECU) -Transmission Control Module -Comfort Control Module -ABS Module -Airbag Module -Radio -Central Locking Module Correct me if I'm wrong! A simple check to see if the CAN bus is in use in a vehicle, and accessible via the OBD socket, is to connect a resistance meter across pin 6 and pin 14. Due to the combined resistance of the two termination resistors at 120 Ohms each the overall resistance should be read as 60 Ohms. Mine has (4.5M Ohm !) I think caused by the cluster "green connection plug " All the other modules above I checked it all works beside the ABS Light on which I cab delete only with proper K-Line.
You know, I don't have a problem with a dislikes, but I really would like to hear from those - what exactly the dislikes are for - just because or they did see something really wrong?:)
I'm going to go with: the most important part of this video is attaching the screen to the board, and the technique used to do so. In this video, that entire segment is out of focus, which makes the video relatively useless to me, and likely the people that gave it a thumbs down as well.
@@ajhill2230 That and he tests the screen and it has a big dark line right across it below the word "Press" at 12:36. The solder didn't take, and he calls it good anyway. Otherwise the technique is OK, so you can still learn from it.
We only do use 12v power supply to test it. Since we do not working on anything else besides the pixelation issue - it's enough for us just to power up the cluster.
@@HETPEZB Got an original cluster connector, but what cables should I use to get life on the display or what color of the wires should I use? Thanks for reply. :-)
Για σου φιλε μου ,Για να δωσω ρευμα στο καντραν με μετασχιματιστη οπως το συνδεης εση πια καλωδια συνδεω στην μπλε την φισα σιν και πλιν για να την δωκιμασω εξω ευχαριστω,
Hi buddy, i have problem. Did and followed. Installed first time and the display didnt work. So removed everything and did it all over again. Still not working and now the key light is flashing and my car start but shut down after couple seconds. What can i do???
Regarding the flashing light- turn on the ignition and leave it on for a good half an hour. It may re-synchronize the immobilizer. Regarding the display - impossible to say without inspection- either LCD is not good (happens really rarely even to Chinese crap LCDs), problems with contacts (e.g. damage the trace from old LCD removal job or some problems with a soldering.
To be honest I don't know and don't really care much, since the pixel repair service is the only one that being provided for those clusters. If the cluster has any other issues - they aren't covered by the repair.
Hello, you can find the information about the repair service, turnaround time, address where to send the items to in the link for the Audi repair service in the description box below the video.
Ordered the stuff and fixed it! thank you for uploading the video!!! So for everyone else. its not terribly hard but if youve never soldered anything, dont have the tools and consumables required it might be better for you to send it in for about 130 to proffesional
To those who are scared to do this themselves:
1.LCD Chinese (they all are anyway) -$17-25 on eBay
2.Flux/Rosin paste - $5 on eBay.
3. Soldering iron 20-30W no more.If you live in the US Walmart has $5 soldering irons that will work long enough to finish the job.
Total ~$30 and some of your free time.
You do not need to have a heat gun.Nice to have it but not required.You can use the soldering iron to heat a little and pull,heat and pull.The pins on the old screen cannot be saved.
The cluster is held by two screws and it has 3 connectors on the back.Very easy to remove.There are plenty of videos on UA-cam.
Take your time and disassemble the cluster.To remove the needles cut a sheet of paper and slide in between the plate and the needle.I use a fork to pry out the needle.Make sure you take pictures of the positions of the needles.
I did this in 25 minutes and I have never soldered FPC cable before.(I do solder many other things though).
TIP:Flux is your friend!You can hardly ever solder anything without flux.Apply and everything will be OK.For cleaning you can use cotton swabs and any alcohol.Vodka works best :))))
B5 s4 ?
B5 S4
@@dins.garage Mine was A6 C5 2.8L but the processes is similar on all others.
So I used the soldering iron to heat up the pins and separate and I accidentally pulled some of the pins off of the motherboard what should I do now
@GooglyGuyy This is why you have to use Rosin Paste Flux. Now you need soldering wire and the rosin to build the up
Cool video mate! Thanks to it I have bought a display from Minitools in Italy and I have repaired my instrument cluster. Keep doing these videos, please!!!
Looks so easy... to break something! Great video, showing a lot of experience.
My good man. I will look you up and send you my cluster. Brilliant.
ASMR... Music to my ears... And yes!! Excellent display(No Pun intended) of not only a working environment, but also very descriptive.
I love the light from the back to check for bridges! Never thought of that before
We are using this trick for many other repairs too - very easy and informative.
great info, thanks for posting. I dont feel as bad paying 150 now knowing the risks plus factor in tools you used, its not worth saving 80 bucks.
Facts
I’m not sure where are you located, but if in the US you can send it to us. Typically takes 1-2 business days for the repair plus time in shipping.
Great job. One of the best how too vids on Utube thank u.
Nice work mate! Very clean!
Wow! You make it look so easy
There is really not much to it as long as the proper good tools are available. If not - easy repair may turn into the disaster :)
Hey, at 9:43 the soldering iron tip was clean or it still had tin in it? I just want to make sure before messing something up...
Edit: and also, how much pressure do you apply with your hand when soldering the contacts? Or just with the soldering iron weight is enough
Edit 2: Okay so this is doable but make sure to use leaded solder else you'll have a hard time melting it with a cheap soldering iron.
Hi! I love youyr video, but i want to know how to make myself a test cable for the final calibration process. Thanks!
the hardest part seems to be putting it back together...how do you know if the dials are situated properly? what kind of resistance are you looking for to know it is in there correctly? i saw you spin them around a few times...without having a way to test it out of the car...how did you rig that setup anyway?, this seems like it would be very frustrating to put it all back in the car and have a dial not working.
Turn the pointer CCW to their rest positions. They turn easily.
How do you power up the cluster out of the car? Did you make that connection? Did you buy it? If so, where can i get one? Thanks for the video
Junk yard will help you.
Congratulations! Gerar technique and didactics. Thanks for sharing
I have tried, it is not easy. This task is reserved for the professional. Not recommended for the amateur
Excellent electronic surgery
Hi, do you have any web sites with wiring diagrams of these instruments or can u tell me on how pins u connect +12v and 0 (some photo with text or something ) or u connect more wires from power supply to instruments? Please and thank you
I understand that you used 30% air to avoid accidental desoldering of SMD but what is the temperature used for desoldering the FPC cable with the heat gun station?
350c is generally ok.
@@HETPEZB Thanks, already done with the swap, used 420c and AMTECH flux, in 20 seconds the FPC was desoldered, soldered the new one and everything is OK now.
Professional job. How much is temperature, what you use for this for heater blower?
Good video. helped to change my screen. Only the screen is too bright , but this is easily fixed with glass tinting film.
used this video to repair my cluster, but i was dumb enough to not be carefull where you told me to.
ripped 3 connections of the main board, so now i am screwed...
Do you maybe have any idea in wich way this would be fixable?
Anyway much thanks for the great video ;-)
It’s possible that those are blanks/not in use. There are like 30% or less of active contacts. The rest are the blanks.
Hello, I was following your tutorial and I believe I messed up the board, is there any way I can speak with you? Thanks
I can’t figure out the clips on the sides ! Could you help me understand how to unclip the sides at 2:06
Great Video. Cant see the reason behind the dislikes though.
It happens :)
Out of focus at important times I suspect.
Is the mileage stored in the gauge cluster itself or can you just connect a new gauge cluster completely and it will display the correct mileage
Cluster contains the mileage.
I did mine and it was perfect when I first tested it but now it shows all bright red and blank with no characters. Does it need some reset or adaptation?
great video . I have a 2004 Audi alloroad 2.5. The parking brake waring light has never worked , it does nt even light up when you first turn on the ignition . Would this be a broken binnacle or just a blown bulb ? many thanks.
What do you have in that syringe?
Please give me a link with that thing....
I had this problem and all I had to do was resolder the old lcd and it's worked perfectly for 9 years. I think audi used low temp solder that becomes undone in 100 degree temps. I used normal 60/40 Kester.
fernarias , in your case, I guess, the problem wasn’t with the missing pixels (lines) but with the whole screen being blank completely. If this is the case it is an isolated issue. I didn’t see cold solder joints so far on those clusters in regards to the pixelation issue. There were, however, quite a few cases on Audi TT’s cold solder joints causing backlight to go off.
Reflow doesn't help. In a simple words the bad connection is where the ribbon cable attaches to the LCD.
Hi I know this video is quite old now, but do you still do cluster repairs, my pixels on my a6 avant quattro C5 have died, I wonder if you could repair it, I'm in Spain, how much do you charge and how do I get it sorted??
We still do the repairs, but I think you can find someone in Europe fixing those.
perfect job but i think the lcd is bad i dont have a black line like this unit and i could see it when blowing the dust off.
Hello- I am wondering if you have any parts for that S4 cluster? I am looking for the complete set of white pointers for instruments to upgrade my Allroad from orange.
Hi, we only do the pixel repair. Sorry, don’t carry the pointers for sale.
Can you recommend someone to do the repair?
Oke heres a major TIP
Dont mark it up like he did in the vid just take a picture so you know the position no damage done
If you are considering this as a damage - you probably did never see what the real damage people do to those clusters :)
What happens if I just buy a whole new gauge cluster and dash? Do I have to reprogram the mileage and stuff?
Yes. If the car is equipped with Immo - it won’t even start without the reprogramming.
Hi! I have a Golf Mark 4 2001and the LCD display when is hot outside turns all red and when it's cold,, in winter , turns dark and you can not read the data. What can i do ? Could be something electric? Or i must change the display?
Pretty sure it’s a same problem and LCD needs a replacement.
@@HETPEZB Thank you!
I have an Audi A4 b5 1.8t that has that same issue of the display with no clarity. How can I reach out to you to have mine fixed
There should be a link for our service in the description below the video.
@@HETPEZB thanks I saw air after and I will be contacting you soon
Hey! I did this following your steps, and I have some circuit board soldering experience. But when I re installed the cluster, the screen was just pure red.? Any thoughts? Or maybe a faulty lcd screen? It was an Amazon one BTW..
It’s like diagnosing over the phone :)
Mine displayed the brake pedal message perfectly first 2 times but went garbled then all red when the car was started and driven. What is going on?
@Billy97ify , need to replace again.
@@HETPEZB Is it damaged or not soldered properly?
@Billy97ify , I don’t have a crystal ball, but since you said it was working for a little bit there is a chance the display is not good, but of course the soldering may be bad too and something just let go.
What's the name of the blue cables in the video beginning? And this cables connected to a 12V battery or...?
Excellent video, very good repair technique.
Hi, can I fix by my self this?, I have an Audi A6 Quattro. Thanks for the Video.
You tell us :)
is it the same screen that is on skoda Octavia Mk1 2004 ?
I think the screen is different.
Hi how much would it be for 2001 audi a6 quattro 2.8 LCD replacement?
The service goes for $150
@@HETPEZB What about 01 Audi TT Coupe?..
We charge $160 for TT and $150 for A4, A6, Allroad.
Is there still a dead line in the upper half?
Separation line
Interesting. Can i get away without using the heat gun? i only have one of those big ones at my disposal. And is flux also called soldering paste? Trying to translate so i can buy the supplies. cheeers.
Soldering paste is not the flux. It’s solder fractures. Not sure how to safely get away without the heat gun. Traces are very delicate and it’s easy to torn them off the board.
How do you make sure not to connect multiple pins to each other when doddering that ???
I usually check it with the microscope.
Is it always necessary to buy a new screen and how much does the new screen cost.
Yes, to get the pixels fixed new screen is a must.
Question: In the odometer window, top row, after putting the unit together and installing it in the car, I read the word ”FUSE”. However, I find no bad fuse anywhere. Please help!
Hi, i want to change my screen in my A6.
What tools did you use when you got tge screen off and back on?
Sorry, i can't speak english well.
You’ll need a hot air station and a soldering iron.
And what sort of glue is it?
It look like not very easy to realise 🙁
What glue?
Excellente video, very clear, thank you
Question! SOS please help. I replaced my LCD, plugged it in and....nothing. The back light works, but no letters, no symbols, no nothing. Just the back light. The bottom two screens also do not display anything (date) & (miles) are both blank. What did I do wrong? I was so careful, but failed.
Are you 100% positive that you connected all the plugs ok?
Do you offer a video of how to remove the instrument cluster from the car?
If I’m not mistaken there are dozen of them on UA-cam already
Hallo soldering iron temperature? And hot air
At 5 minutes 16 seconds what is that black round piece on the top right called ? What's it for I was replacing my screen and realized that was missing it was previously tampered with
Speaker?
Thank you.
my replacement lcd display has 51pins while the board has 50 pins ? any suggestions?
Start weldind from 1and leave 51 off or the opposite?
Never saw the discrepancy myself for a4, a6 or allroad. Can’t comment on your question.
One more question. How many degrees must i take for the hot air? Many thanks for infos! Best regards, Peter
370-400 should be ok :)
Best Pixel Repair Thank you very much! Wish you a nice day!
How do i contact you so i can send you mine to fix ,,06 vw touareg v8 with nav, also if i was to buy a used one do i have to have it flashed,
Hello. in my car (seat exeo = audi a4 b6-7) back light of lcd disapered, but if i i put a lamp with a certain angle i can see the lcd data that are ok. Do i replace the screen ????? I dont have tested to connect the complete dismount instrumentation to see if background led are shining.
Thanks for your help
Screen replacement won’t help. You need to fix an issue with the backlight.
@@HETPEZB Thanks for your response. Do you have any idea (no fuse dead on fuse box, led driver ????)
What’s the difference between regular and premium lcd. Warranty? Brightness?
Premium LCD contrast and brighness are much closer to OEM than regular display. Warranty is the same.
Alfa Romeo 156 2002, same problem whit board displey? How much cost to replace?
Sorry, don’t know where to get the replacement displays for AR
Very nice explanatory video you made, thumbs up! - I have an Audi a4 b5 2001 model, but only with half size LCD. I cant really find a lot about them, but my LCD has a "Mind of it own" In outside temp like 18-19C the LCD works perfectly, when it hets up to 25-30C it starts to fade from top left diagonally towards bottom right to the point where its unreadable.
Do you know this display/cluster? also it does not have the grey connector on the back. Is my LCD dead or is it some other component affecting my LCD?
I appreciate your time.
Back in a days I did have 2001 A4 with a half display. Was doing exactly same thing as yours. Same problem as with the full size LCD - needs to be replaced. Circuit boards looks different, but the procedure is very similar.
Thank you :-) would you by any chance where i can source one here in Europe? Would you happen to know the partnumber i need to look for?
try MiniTools from Italy. They may have half size LCD.
I have a o8 q7 the climate control temperature display is starting to go out is there a similar process for this
Do you still do repair? I have one I would love to send to get repaired
Yes, I still do repair those.
Hi. Is any chance you can fix it for me? Just afraid to do it myself. I have 2000 audi A6
Absolutely. There is a link for the repair service in the description below the video.
Just wondering how much it would cost? Just approximately.
@@maksymlevchenko6150 , when you click on the link- you’ll see exactly how much without guessing.
I see price in link, also my display which shows year and date is not showing anything, would you able to fix that too? Thanks
@@maksymlevchenko6150 , it depends what the problem is. I should have the replacement displays (left, right) too.
can I buy that cluster? im in desperate need of a new one and can't find them online
What’s the make/model/year of your car?
Do you still provide this service?
Thank you
Yes we do! Link for the service is in the description (I hope :) )
great video thank you .where can i buy the screen?
Please check out the description under the video. You can make your choice based on the Audi model that you have Jaeger for TT or VDO for A4, A6 or Allroad
.
@@HETPEZB Aliexpress the screen cost under $10 and you selling it for $79 that's mad
How lucky do you consider yourself? You get the display with a more or less good quality picture after you purchase from how many different sellers on AliExpress 1-5-15 or never? All displays there looking absolutely identical on their picture, but have different brightness/contrast.
Knows his stuff, Good job.👍
hello what is called the hot air bellows
and it is Koi the products in the syringe
It calls Hot Air Station :)
Is there a special type of flux to use?
we use this one - amzn.to/2D4PNzl
Is it easy to replace the buzzer?
Requires basic soldering skills.
What temp do you set your heat gun
I guess it is 370
Hello! I have a question. What do you have in the syringe? Thanks for infos!
It's a flux. Helps the solder to flow.
Best Pixel Repair thanx for your Info! 👍👍👍
Very helpful thank you
What can you do if some of the connecters rip and stay on board?
You scrap the display and desolder the ripped contacts off to clean the contact pad for the new display.
@@HETPEZB what's the best way to get the ripped contacts off with? Tweezers?
Soldering iron.
Where do you live? I need exactly same thing for my A4 B7
North Carolina
Lol...I thought you from Portugal. I could smell the garlic and meat 😋
where did you get the lcd from just in case mine finally goes out.
The links are in the description below the video
Nice work! Where do I buy a new led display? 1999 S4 b5
Please check out the description below the video :)
@@HETPEZB I was obviously blind... Saw it now thanks.
@Best Pixel Repair hey, if a couple of the "fingers?" or the connections on the board get lifted off during the removal of the old LCD Display is it possible too save or is the hole board shot??? Any help will be awesome!?
Thank-you!
A lot of them (I would guess 60%) are actually unused at all. There is a good chance that the broken ones are among those :)
And if they are lifted but not torn - you can carefully align them back.
Great job
Is it normal all that black pixels in row under "PRESS"?
Yes it is. It’s a divider between red and yellow zones. You can see the actual divider on the video as a white line after the LCD display is removed (around 7-8 minutes mark on the video)
Question : is it possible a faulty instrument cluster with or without a FIS LCD pixel fault can interfere or shorten the K-Line OBD2 or CAN Bus ? My A6 2.7t C5 2000 can not be scanned and diagnosed anymore the K-Line voltage on Pin 7 at the OBD2 Scanner Plug is missing. Besides the pixel fault on the cluster everything works but no communication (link error to scan tools). I believe the instrument cluster is the hub for OBD2 communication. I checked out all other OBD2 modules incl. the ECU. Audi says it must be the cluster which has been discontinued not available anymore.
The termination resistor is far to high at 4.5M Ohm instead 120 Ohms on the CAN Bus High and Low. Green Plug Pin 28 K-Line, W-wire Pin 5 to ECU. Blue Plug Pin 25 Consumption signal something is not right there I guess.
Unfortunately we are not so deep into the Audi module communication, but if you are suspecting the cluster to be responsible for loosing the communication I would suggest to get a used cluster from 2000 A6, connect it and run the diagnostic. If the communication will resume - you'll know that the original cluster is bad. It will be a first step. Of course may be someone else could propose a better solution.
Thanks for your answer and advise.
Juat remove the cluster ans try to connect car with vcds..
I think I tried that before in removing the data dialog (gateway) cluster it seems it needs to be connected. The terminal resistance on the data bus is not 120 Ohm it appears the cluster is causing that too.
Instead 4.5 MOhm the voltage on the K-Line just 0.35 Volt to the OBD diagnose port. The CAN Bus may still work.
I may be able to communicate with any other module on the data bus by removing the cluster not to the ECU to read fault data or delete.
The airbag light came on after cold night I don't care either.
I think I live with the problem the rest of the system gives me still ok and everythings works beside the OBD connection problem and the fragmented FIS display still can read "something".
To find a second hand cluster and reprogarmme is also a hazzle.
Anyway, thanks guys, as long as it still drives.. a new cluster which are not available anymore is a third of the retail value of my A6 2.7t
Its now allergic agains outside computer and diagnose… LOL
The K-line goes to all the modules in the car. "Any module that happens to fail" such that it holds the k-line to 12V or Ground will prevent communication over the K-line entirely. Yes this sucks. In the 'old Audi' days all of the K-line wires from every module all terminated in 1 place - sort of a glob of connections. If there was a problem, you just unplugged them 1 by one until it worked. Then you instantly knew which module was at fault. Quite often an aftermarket radio installation would cause this. It isn't that easy anymore - there is no centralized interconnect of the K-linewires. So basically you just go around to all the modules and unplug them until the K-line comes back to normal. You of course start with the common ones to give K-line problems (ABS, radio), followed by the ones which are easiest to get to like the instrument cluster which is the hub.
If you get them all unplugged and it's still shorted then you have a wiring problem - the actual K-line bus itself is shorted somewhere .
If you can talk to everything but the ECU - you don't have a k-line problem, just an ECU problem.
From the dealers diagnosis it seems that is not the case, though.
Answers:
1 - I wasn't able to get a connection at all. In Program Options, I selected COM port and clicked Test, COM port was fine but interface was not found.
2 - Negative, can't connect to any module in the system. Won't even let me get through the COM port test.
So, VW/Audi's on-board diagnosis system is sort of their version of 'no man's left behind'? Because ONE module, entire K-line network is disabled?? Dealer mentioned a term 'network failure', I guess that's what it means..
There must be an advantage of using such system, German engineers ain't stupid..Right?
But from where I see...I don't see any advantage. It's just stupid............
Since there's no old fashion centralized interconnect panel thingy, I assume ECU is now centralized interconnect of every module.
Oh and to clarify my knowledge, are there 7 main units related to K-line in B6
-Engine Control Module (ECU)
-Transmission Control Module
-Comfort Control Module
-ABS Module
-Airbag Module
-Radio
-Central Locking Module
Correct me if I'm wrong!
A simple check to see if the CAN bus is in use in a vehicle, and accessible via the OBD socket, is to connect a resistance meter across pin 6 and pin 14. Due to the combined resistance of the two termination resistors at 120 Ohms each the overall resistance should be read as 60 Ohms.
Mine has (4.5M Ohm !) I think caused by the cluster "green connection plug "
All the other modules above I checked it all works beside the ABS Light on which I cab delete only with proper K-Line.
are you still doing this? Mine burnt out 😞
Absolutely! :)
@@HETPEZB what’s the best way to message you about some questions on removing it and pricing etc
Hands up! This is a robbery.
7 dislikes??? some ppl need to get a life...
You know, I don't have a problem with a dislikes, but I really would like to hear from those - what exactly the dislikes are for - just because or they did see something really wrong?:)
7 shops that charge hundreds. Mad your educating people. Trust me 7, money is better off left in my bank.
@@HETPEZB they are losers and trolls basically. they go around disliking because...they can. there's no reason or logic behind it
I'm going to go with: the most important part of this video is attaching the screen to the board, and the technique used to do so. In this video, that entire segment is out of focus, which makes the video relatively useless to me, and likely the people that gave it a thumbs down as well.
@@ajhill2230 That and he tests the screen and it has a big dark line right across it below the word "Press" at 12:36. The solder didn't take, and he calls it good anyway. Otherwise the technique is OK, so you can still learn from it.
Hi. What do you use to test it, and how?
We only do use 12v power supply to test it. Since we do not working on anything else besides the pixelation issue - it's enough for us just to power up the cluster.
@@HETPEZB Got an original cluster connector, but what cables should I use to get life on the display or what color of the wires should I use? Thanks for reply. :-)
Lars Egil Barka I won’t remember from the top of my head, but google for Audi cluster pinout. You’ll find it easily.
@@HETPEZB thanks.. :-)
@@HETPEZB Hi, I looked and I didnt find it, well I found much, but not what Im looking for, Do you have a link or something? :-)
Για σου φιλε μου ,Για να δωσω ρευμα στο καντραν με μετασχιματιστη οπως το συνδεης εση πια καλωδια συνδεω στην μπλε την φισα σιν και πλιν για να την δωκιμασω εξω ευχαριστω,
Hi buddy, i have problem. Did and followed. Installed first time and the display didnt work. So removed everything and did it all over again. Still not working and now the key light is flashing and my car start but shut down after couple seconds. What can i do???
Regarding the flashing light- turn on the ignition and leave it on for a good half an hour. It may re-synchronize the immobilizer. Regarding the display - impossible to say without inspection- either LCD is not good (happens really rarely even to Chinese crap LCDs), problems with contacts (e.g. damage the trace from old LCD removal job or some problems with a soldering.
NICE WORK.
what kind of the liquid inside the Syringe?
It’s a flux
Don't this cluster hasn't got low oil pressure light to light up on start up?
To be honest I don't know and don't really care much, since the pixel repair service is the only one that being provided for those clusters. If the cluster has any other issues - they aren't covered by the repair.
Modern VW/Audi won't show oil pressure warnings below 2000 rpm
Great video! What is the name of song in start of video?
It calls "A sweet feeling". Sorry, no artist was mentioned.
@@HETPEZB I found, thank you👍
Жесткий Русский акцент ;) молодец руки из правельнного места
Where can I send my cluster?
Please check out the links in the description.
Genius
how do i find out what lcd display i need for my model?
What model do you have?
@@HETPEZB S3 8L -99
Sorry, have no information about 3 series Audi.
Is it lead free flux?
Never heard about the lead free flux. Need to dig into that. I only heard about lead free solder.
Hey, is there any chance that you can fix mine? and how much would you charge?
Hello, you can find the information about the repair service, turnaround time, address where to send the items to in the link for the Audi repair service in the description box below the video.
@@HETPEZB thanks a lot great job.....
What pin connections did you use on the blue test plug? Thanks.
I found it somewhere online. Search for A4 cluster pinout.