@@frondantriebIt's pretty disturbing to see they put a picture of his wife on that website, like YIKES!!! I definitely wouldn't want a picture of my wife on a creepy stalker website especially as she didn't give permission for it either.
That's the way almost all motor cycle wheels are made, internal spacer between bearings. Even a gentle pull like that may Brinnel bearing and race so it shouldn't be refitted. (bearings shouldn't be removed and re-fitted) You should have heated the hub before pulling as the aluminium expands much faster and further than the larger mass of steel bearing. Boiling water is more than enough
Excellent video. I place a large thick washer onto the hub for the puller legs to sit on - hopefully to distribute the pressure (and in this case save the spoke end housings).
Thank you! Well my kid is only 1 at the moment so I guess I will find that out at some point. 😂 But she does like to say “no no no nooo no no no no no…” 🤭
@@IronHorsey3 No argument there. I do have respect for the guy, seriously, I just don't worship him. I get he's a little gruff on his channel but no need to be unnecessarily dismissive. I understand too that those tools are expensive and that excludes the home mechanic. And that is why I stick to the old cup and cone bearings.
A fun moment I once enjoyed: two engineers with masters degrees came and visited me & my best friend. My best friend offered to help them re-esemble their bikes & better ways to prep them for the plane ride. The arrogance of the engineers, helped them to rudely decline. We sat and drank beers watching them struggle. Now my friend watching was a bike mechanic. Such a good one that he has wrenched for a couple national teams. He & I had a great many laughs and beers. The only ones that lost were the arrogant engineers. Be humble because your worth it. Be respectful, because you have earned it. Know your/you're love.
A good example why universities should not give up / re-introduce teaching classics to every student. Because it would teach young people the different notions of "knowledge" the greeks and romans differentiated; and with it humbleness as to not become overly confident to the point of arrogance as to the mere theoretical or very specialized character of their knowledge. The knowledge your bike mechanic friend possesses is called "phronesis" (ancient Greek), and was regarded as the most virtuous form of knowledge. Wikipedia: "[It] is a type of wisdom or intelligence relevant to practical action in particular situations. It implies both good judgment and excellence of character and habits, and was a common topic of discussion in ancient Greek philosophy. Classical works about this topic are still influential today. In Aristotelian ethics, the concept was distinguished from other words for wisdom and intellectual virtues - such as episteme and sophia - because of its practical character. The traditional Latin translation is prudentia, which is the source of the English word 'prudence'."
@@B_COOPER one sadly has passed, however they were both top aeronautical engineers with a very large corporation working on classified government projects.
I usually drill a large enough hole in a scrap of thin plywood and then use that to protect the surface I'm pulling or pushing against. Great video, must have tool and not expensive, either.
In my experience as a technician in a factory, engineers are never wrong. Your explanation doesn't matter. And hambini is the good example. everything is "Crap" except what comes out of his brain
Yikes! My dad was an engineer and I can relate! (Strongly!) Ha ha, I remember when we would argue, even if I was right… he would never concede. 🤭 But hay, we are all guilty of that sometimes, if I’m honest I’m quite stubborn as well. 🤦🏻♂️ Thank you for the comment!
@@dasboototto i don't know the level of your skills but in Belgium, I have a licence in electromechanics. And 20 years in aeronautical machining. So you must be this kind of ingeneers that I like!
@@reginaldscot165 he did nothing to make it look that way... Unless he snuck into your workshop and used a fairing tool to deform the end of the tube.... Hambini and all the other bearing manufacturers are correct.... Sorry bro but its difficult to ream a reamer
One tip that I use for bearings is to freeze them before installing. The cold 'shrinks' the bearing making the installation quite effortless when using a press (as demonstrated)
This is kind of funny in that usually it's the engineers who say things like "you should never use a hammer on bearings" and the mechanics saying "that's theoretical bullshit, I've used a hammer all my life, no problem", this time it's the other way around. I'm in the latter group, I know bearing pullers exist and use them if I have one but I work as a heavy truck mechanic at a garage that services multiple brands of vehicles so we don't have all the brand-specific special tools which means we have to improvise and often that means using a hammer and a drift instead of a proper puller. I also work on bicycles and motorcycles as a hobby and while I have only disassembles a couple of bicycle hubs I've done dozens of motorcycle ones which are a very similar design. Some spacers on motorcycles even have small notches at the end to fit narrow puller legs but as I of course don't have a special puller like that I drift the bearings out. I don't usually use a small pin punch, I prefer a brass or aluminium rod with a diameter maybe a few millimeters less than the bearing's inner race so the drift will contact a larger portion of the bearing's circumference. Specific tools are nice and handy if you have them but I personally have never had any problems using a hammer and a punch. If you are gentle and take care not to cock the bearing in the bore there's no damage except maybe to the bearing itself and usually the only reason to remove a bearing is to replace it so no need to worry about damaging it as it's going to the bin anyway. And pulling the bearing by the inner race is likely to damage the raceways and lead to a failure at a later date anyway even if it's a gentler method than drifting it out so bearings should still be replaced every time they are removed unless they can be pressed out without exerting force on the rolling elements which of course is not possible on bike hub bearings. Bearings are relatively cheap so at work I replace them every time when I remove a hub for some reason if there's even a slightest doubt about their condition like any roughness or leakage of the seals or if the service records show they have done extensive mileage even if they still seem fine. The wheel bearing set for a heavy truck will still be a couple of hundreds of euros but on the other hand the disassembly and reassembly is about 2-3 hours of work and a bearing failure on the road may cause expensive hub and axle damage, towing expenses and needless down time for the vehicle. On a bicycle the risks and costs involved are obviously much lower but on the other hand the bearings cost next to nothing (unless you use some fancy ceramic ones) and, as said, there's really no reason to remove the modern sealed hub bearings other than to replace them. Old style hubs with loose cones and balls are obviously a different story.
Problem with this Reginald kid is that he's so desperate to one-up Hambini, because Hambini is a big name, and the kid wants that clout. So, he has to go out of his way to say "Hambini wrong. I correct." Hambini punches up at big, powerful entities in the cycling industry; while this guy is punching at someone who is just a watchdog trying to keep the industry honest. His comments about Hambini in this comments section show how childish and petty he is. In Hambini's video and comments section, he was being quite respectful, and wasn't being the least bit derisive toward Reg. He isn't spamming his comments section with disrespectful, insulting crap like "Reginald is dishonest," "I'm very disappointed in him," and "he still hasn't admitted being wrong." All that aside, let's talk about the technicality of the techniques themselves. The puller is probably expensive, and unnecessary. It's a fact that the puncher + hammer, when done carefully avoids damage very well. Any novice mechanic, with some patience and common sense, can easily execute this simple technique. The puller can be useful once the spacer is out, to take out the other bearing.
@@tigonridge 1) Hambini points to the wrong side of the spacer that never was touched by the bearing puller (strawman). So it's more likely Hambini was the one desperate to not be one-upped by a lowly bike mechanic. 2) At 22:47 you can see that the bearing puller does not extend beyond the bearing, certainly not enough to damage the spacer. 3) Even if the puller did contact the spacer, this is a steel spacer. And at 18:11 it's pretty obvious that the amount of torque applied to the bearing puller is not enough to deform the spacer. You would need to buldge the steel spacer beyond it's yield point for it to deform. That's not what happens. 4) Hambini's whole video is essentially disrespecting Reginald, baiting the audience with a title that he'd been reamed, only to use sarcasm and irony to fire back at the lowly mechanic. I have no dog in this race. I couldn't care less who is right. Just what is right. In this case Reginald is in the right.
You’re running the risk of indenting and deforming the hub with this method due to the feet of the puller contacting the hub face. A spacer ring should be used to dissipate the more equally. Also bearings have Radii not chamfers which allow it to sit square in the housing and help eliminate stress.
He said there was a risk to the edge of the hub, but that this one looked strong enough. I personally would have used a washer that matched the diameter of the hub for extra protection. Still I think much less risk than hammering the bearings out and potentially causing the hole to deform like Hambini did.
the best thing about this video is the manner in which it highlights once again (if its ever still needed) the narcissistic hubris of Hambini - chapeau Mr Scott 👍
This was awesome! I watched it twice. Don’t sell yourself short. You are clearly very intelligent. I would love a video on how you deal with a not very tight press fit BB. Retaining compound?
I've got a 2014 Specialized Camber that needed a BB change a couple of years ago. The mechanic said the BB was pretty loose so he used Loctite to make sure it stays put. Two years/5,000 miles later and it's still good. No idea if it's going to be a problem in the future.
Wow, this is great content for people like me who are interested in the technique, but though have no clue from a professional perspective. I really appreciate your explanation! I like your scientific approach saying everybody makes mistakes and nobody knows everything so we can profit one from another. You have a new subscriber 😊
Yes I strongly believe in that as a philosophy. 🙂 We all take on different information as we all have different lives. But it’s like a living internet, together we know everything there is to know about every subject. Like from the comments on this video I have learned some really interesting things and how to improve my tools and techniques. 💪🏼🙂 Thank you for your nice comment! 👍🏻
I'm happy to say I don't have this problem, since I'm only interested in bicycles that have cup-and-cone bearings. Campagnolo made these (even with hollow axles) through the late 90's. I can service them easily myself without special tools. Not everything new-fangled is necessarily better :-)
@@patricasensio6074 yeah, this is the feedback loop between engineering and production/operation that is fundamental for improvement and good engineering practices. @Hambini speaks a lot about the importance of this on a few of his videos. My initial comment is in line with @Hambini style of humor. And i appreciate both for the content and discussion around this.
Very interesting and educational video thanks. Professionally presented too. Class act 👌🏼 💯 agree with your approach to this, NO ONE knows everything. There is always somebody who knows more or has a better/more effective solution to a problem. Always be humble and listen to others. You may learn something.
Depends how tight the inner spacer is to the bearing and how thick the chamoher on your puller is. Lots of hubs are designed where there is a lip on one side but the other bearing pushes in until it contacts the spacer (bontrager mtb hubs for example) so you might not be able to get a puller on.
Exactly. That tube spacer is a toleranced part designed to preload and take out bearing's axial clearance. Perfectly acceptable to knock a bearing out using a drift, provided you are careful and not a ham-fisted troll. Also acceptable to use a puller! Although in this video it actually looks as if this chap has actually damaged and flared out the inner tube spacer by using the blind puller collet. I've never seen a flared spacer like that on a hundred wheels. May be wrong though, but looks that way.
@@PeakTorque Allrounder Bicycle Hambini essentially administers an Asch Conformity Experiment: 1) Hambini's attempt to show that the spacer is deformed is misleading as he explains the up tick of the light deflection on the opposite side of the spacer that was never was touched by the bearing puller. 2) This is a steel spacer. And at 18:11 it's pretty obvious that the amount of torque applied to the bearing puller is not enough to deform the spacer. You would need to buldge the steel spacer beyond it's yield point for it to deform. That's not what happens. 3) At 22:47 you can see that the bearing puller does not extend beyond the bearing, certainly not enough to damage the spacer.
idk if anyone else has suggested this, but you can use a zip-tie or a tube tightener to tighten the puller's legs together so that you get the bearing out without any resistance.
Once had to visit a site where the companies CNC pipe bending tool had a collapsed bearing. When I stripped the top end to reach the bearings someone at the factory (Italian machine) had fitted the top most outer bearing the wrong way so no internal chamfer for the bearing puller! Any form of welding a metal rod to aid pulling the bearing was not an option. In short I had to custom turn a bearing puller tool head that had near knife edges and after several attempts over a weekend managed to remove the old damaged bearings and fit new. My bill was well over a grand! The cost to the company was several thousands due to penalties incurred for downstream production stoppages. That's "JIT" production systems for you. Moral of the tale, check the bearing is fitted the right way round or it will end in lots of tears!
That’s sounds like my previous job! 🤭 I had many times in factories fixing mistakes and broke machines/robots and it’s always made worse by the poor installation of the last guy who touched it. All the while knowing that the factory owner is losing $1000s a day from a down production line. It’s funny, I kind of miss it. 😅
Just seen Hambini's reply - ungracious and full of misinformation (as usual). - Mark twain once said " Never argue with an idiot. They will drag you down to their level and beat you with experience."
Yes that’s what I thought. I’m glad you were not fooled by his misdirection like many seem to have been… 🤦🏻♂️ Thank you for the supportive comment. 🙏🏻
I'm generally inclined to believe there's a misunderstanding between the two of you. Text is a poor medium for communication ideas, especially mechanical ones. This is especially true on the internet which encourages pithy responses. Your video demonstrates why diagrams are important in explaining how things work- it clarifies what parts you are talking about and their relationship to each other. In my experiance many arguments between engineers, mechanics, & managers are resolved as "we acutally agree" or "oh that's what you meant" once they take the time to draw things out on a white board and clarify what they are trying to say.
You could argue that the tool you use is too expensive for the removal of a low spinning bearing like a bicycle wheel bearing, it’s not a turbo... Tapping it out is also possible when bearing is at end of life. I remember the video of too expensive BB’s….;)…anyway, i agree with you way of doing it. I would always opt for the bearing pooler over the hammer when there is enough space and available tools. It’s good you show everybody these tools exist.
I would say there is more than 1 way to skin a cat, ie you are both right in the way you get the bearings in and out. In our shop we only use bearing pullers when we are just servicing the bearings, and replacing again. This mainly is for ceramic bearings. If the bearings are going to be replaced it is much faster and easier to punch them out, and we have never damaged a hub in doing so. I think you are both great regardless :)
They are both right but less violence is always a better option .That's why tools approved by UCI have eradicated the use of hammers etc .Its best practice
@@JaiJai71104 There is a difference between UCI approved and UCI recommended. Just because they recommend it in their workshop doesn't mean it is the end all be all of tools.
You got a response from Hambini. I agree with some of what Hambini said. I also never replace a bearing that has been removed by either method. It could be damaged, or slightly worn and going to cause problems later on. I'm wary of damaging the spacer as well. Bearings are relatively cheap, but spacers may be difficult to get.
I think the end of the tube Hambini suggests is "flared" is from the other side of the hub, you pull the tube out of the hub with your fingertip by the end which was in contact with the bearing puller. Watching it back and trying to focus on just one end of the tube is like watching David Blaine trying to misdirect you
@@Laundry_Hamper@Reginald Scot . I watched this video again. At 23:24.paused it. It actually looks like it may be oil on the end of the spacer. Also again at 23:43 which is about the time Hambini showed the 'flaring' 7:06 on Hambini's video. Watch this video again and after 3 times. Reginald puts the spacer back in the reverse, which doesn't matter. I would personally replace the bearing anyway.
@@UKMitchy I noticed the same. Hambini picks on the wrong side of the spacer, the side that never was touched by the puller. The deflection of light looks very much like a thick oil or thin grease.
I was going to say Hambini is an engineer not a mechanic. Still, this video is well done. I do remember cringing when Hambini was blunt force trauma'ing the hub. A bearing extractor is much more humane. Nice work 👍
Well done! I totally agree with you on this point. Nobody is perfect, and there is always something to learn and improve upon. Just hope that Hambini takes it positively.
Nice tooling. As an amateur I use a large anchor bolt to lock on the inner race, a heavy duty pvc pipe coupling to rest the hub on then tap it out with a long drift hitting the center of the anchor bolt . All up cost about £1.00 .
I enjoyed the tone, expertise, and light and friendly diss. As a rule of thumb, I trust more the people who have a lot of questions, than the ones who have a lot of answers. Great content.
The problem that most people don't address is what do you do when the inner race fails and your left with the outer race stuck in the hub. I've had frame pivot bearings that could only be removed by a thin screw driver and hammer (demo 8 main pivot bearings) They are really thin and are prone to breaking during removal. These pulling tool's only work when bearings are still in pretty good condition (They are only squeaking and creaking because somehow water has managed to get in) but otherwise they are fine structurally. Usually by the time you detect they need changing is when they are already at the point of falling apart (play in bearings etc) which usually means the inner race will just pull apart with minimal force.
@@reginaldscot165 Didn't actually know that. I alway's assumed they only made bit's to fit the inner race only. That might be a useful video to make if you come across a completely fucked wheel in the future.
This is the same tool and method I used to remove the bearings from my Axis 4.0 scs freehub when replacing them. This also had a preload tube. Worked perfectly!
Absolutely brilliant video! You can also use non flanged pullers like those from Wheels Mfg, as long as you don't allow it to drop into the sleeve before expanding. It's the exact same way to service a freehub body with a preload sleeve. The only issue I have with this vid is that I wanted to make a video on this topic and now there's no point! Really glad to have found your channel and a like-minded soul 😀
Ahh ya¿ I was expecting a more sophisticated and precise answer from you Reginald. There has got to be an extraction puller that engages the inside lips of the end cap, so as not to damage the nicely finished exterior shell. The vice could squeeze to hard, and the vice grips's teeth could possibly penetrate the cloth upon being wiggled about while pulling. A thick piece of good leather and the vice grips sounds safer, eh? Should ask Sir. Hambijni on this one?🤷🏼♂️
I have 100s of comments to answer so you will forgive me for not giving you a detailed step by step explanation. I was answering the question to someone I believe was doing it at home with limited experience and equipment. I’m obviously not going to suggest some random tool that possibly costs $100s, most people who want to do it themselves are trying to save money, if you have a lot of money and you only want to do it 1 time I suggest you take it to your LBS. No, you won’t crush them, unless you are a careless gorilla, 😅 Also the end caps are normally replaceable at low cost so if you do scratch them it’s not the end of the world. A permanent marker is also a solution. I’m sure I can talk longer on this subject but I have other people to answer. 🙂
Good video. Didn't know these types of bearing pullers existed. Really useful. Being poor all my bicycles have cup and cone bearings on the wheels, so not relevant for those but really good for my motorcycle wheel hubs. Strangely enough motorcycle wheels are built with the same system ie a spacer between bearings. A good example of "you don't know what you don't know".
All in all, this was a very interesting and educational comments section on a cycling repair related video. Firstly, I found the original very informative in that it provided another solution to a common problem, but then in the comments, viewers were able to add and expand on that with their own solution to the possibility (that Reginald mentioned) of the bearing puller stressing the hub if not placed in the correct position by suggesting methods of mounting the bearing puller that would distribute the stress evenly across the hub while other suggested pushing the bearing extractor out instead of pulling it. The cycling community at its best on display here. PS, for the naysayers.... Sets similar to the "unobtainable" bearing press and extractor set are widely available online for the price of a couple of pints of beer. Amazon and Ebay have many different type sets of them for around £20.
I use a similar tool but I use a thick piece of pvc pipe and a big washer instead of the metal extractor so almost zero chance of damaging the hub face. Surprised you didn't remove the Rotor though? Especially when re-installing the bearing on the bench, some of them bend just by looking at them.
As a mechanical engineer, I learnt that you should never re-use a bearing that had been removed because it can be damaged even if you use the correct tool as you did. This is because you apply the force to the inner race which is transmitted through the ball bearings to the outer race. This can damage the race tracks and cause roughness when the bearing rotates. When you install a new bearing using the correct tool, the force is only applied to the outer race which is slightly wider than the inner race. This is not usually a problem because you would only remove a bearing if it needed to be replaced with a new one. Also, in my opinion, Hambini is not a professional engineer or he would know this (perhaps he's an electrical engineer).
@@msyahnaz3325 Agreed. That's how it is where I am, but in the USA and even in the UK, the term "engineer" is not well defined and anyone can call themselves an engineer if they want. For example, I understand that in the US, train drivers are also known as engineers and you don't need a degree for that.
Just watched a video by Hambini for the first time (about ceramic bearings vs steel) and I take it back. He definitely knows about bearings at an engineering level. I was just surprised about the video excerpt showing his bearing removal technique but, if you don't have the correct extractor, this is ok so long as you are careful not to damage the housing.
The whole premise of his video was trashing Hunt, so it didn’t matter what collateral damage he causes to the hub. In my opinion, Hunt make excellent wheels (I own three sets).
Yeh drifting with a punch is a perfectly fine method, the hammer is still effective whether ball peen or copper. Maintenance engineer here plus a hunt wheel owner. Bearing pullers are great, if you have clearance.
I like how Peak Torque owns up to his errors and trys to correct them, either in the comments or in a further video. No one is perfect and we're all continally learning. Hope we'll see Hambini do the same.
@@reginaldscot165 Yes, most recently on the SRAM Eagle derailleur, he corrected some mis-assumptions he'd made. it's good, as it then makes his points more valid if he's prepared to take on knowledge he's learnt from others
@@a1white I unsubscribed from Peak Torque when he tried to sell 180mm disc adapters for road bikes with bullshit reasons like the sponsored 'shills' give he and Hambini often mock
At 14:00 you just proved why the method of removing by giving it a tap is also valid because the distance d(edge to edge) is greater than the distance between d(edge and the smoothed outer surface angle), THUS reducing the diameter in non-horizontal alignment, making it easier to tap it out without damage. Also, btw once you have access to any internal working you would usually, hopefully clean the surface before reinserting anything.
Define “valid.” And no, that is not how it works, twisting is never better than a straight pull. I speak from experience watching many a bearing getting wedged in a hub because someone over drove the bearing with the impact from the hammer. I appreciate your attempt.
Also use a bearing puller. Currently use a slide hammer with the bearing puller. But think I will also get or make the top part or the bearing extraction tool. Thanks for sharing
This was a great video thanks for sharing this info! Hambini is a bit like Durianrider. Makes some valid points and highlights issues, but the delivery style leaves a lot to be desired. It’s almost like they recruit disciples and have formed a cult when you read their comments sections 😂 Top work man! This video has me subscribed 👍
Hay! You will give Durian rider a bad name! 😂 Yes I feel the same way to some extent, it’s kind of a natural process of becoming internet famous. You get followers who hang on your every word and that can be dangerous… also to stay relevant the UA-cam personality needs to be more extreme. I feel that Hambini probably isn’t like that in real life, it’s just an act he puts on because his fans like it when he says something rude. That’s what people come back for.
@@reginaldscot165 I totally agree, the loudest voice gets the most attention. However lots of bad attention isn’t as worthy as less good attention IMO. This video has made me subscribe, keep up the good work I much prefer straight to the point info like this instead of the drama from the likes of the other guys we’ve mentioned and I’m sure I’m not alone 👍
My mechanic has used this method in the past on some wheels. It does not work on the vast majority of wheels though. On zipp wheels the spacer tube is not chamfered and there isn't enough space to get the legs in. He also said hunt wheels are garbage and the axles break constantly. This was also on the video by Francis Cade's mechanic who said the same thing.
I have a set of Hunt wheels with this arrangement and, tbh, didn't give it a second thought when swapping bearings. I use the bearing extractors from Bearing Pro Tools (UK made, highly recommended), which install much like yours but are specifically sized to the thickness of the bearing. I then tightened up and knocked out with a punch from the opposite side. It probably took longer to type this than to do it. One recommendation that I always make is to apply gentle heat to the bearing/hub interface. Aluminium (hub) expands more than steel (bearing) for a given amount of heat, so this will naturally loosen the bearing interface and usually means the most gentle of taps will release the bearing. Obviously too much heat would be very bad, but as 100C is about the right temperature, I just swill a little water from a boiled kettle over the bearing before knocking it out. As I'm typically replacing them anyway, the water can't damage anything and it means that almost no force needs to be applied to the hub. Obviously, the replacements are pressed in, with a thin slither of grease to ensure they'll come out again next time! Thanks for the video.
Very good ending message that resonates very well and everyone should follow: Evryone makes mistakes. Be kind. We would all be better if we managed things with kindness. But well… that does not sell as well as ranting so…
I removed a front bearing on my DT Swiss H1900 the hammer and pin punch method, I really didn't think I'd started it off bad but when I flipped the wheel to have a look I realised I'd gone way too far with just two hits and twisted the bearing in the hub... I got it out and the hub has some light rippling now to the inside, but I ordered a bearing puller(and press kit) for doing the rest... The new bearings all go in fine but with that one iffy one I really just did get away with it.... maybe the problem is I'm a stonemason to trade and didn't use a Park shop hammer but my 4lb mash hammer lol
Ha ha maybe! Yes it’s an easy mistake to make. I had a set of special drifts for DT Swiss wheels and you do use a mallet, but the drifts keep everything straight. 🙂👍🏻
Hello Reginald. I remember that I followed on your comment in the Hambini video, thinking exactly about / suggesting this method. 6 months later UA-cam found me back and recommended me your video. I am not an engineer nor a mechanic (I am a “people mechanic”), just a bike enthusiast that likes to do some work on his bike. My father had some mechanical skills and taught me how to use tools when I was a kid. I am glad you took the time to do this video and contribute to the global knowledge. As you said, blind worshipping leads to zero evolution in our knowledge. Thank you!
You are very welcome and thank you for coming and watching. Yes I appreciate your input and you don’t have to be a qualified anything to have some talent for mechanical work… it’s actually quite different from being an Engineer. Some people just have a predisposition to all things mechanical. All the best! I hope you return to my channel sometime. 🙂🙏🏻
Thanks Reg, I've been using the Hambini 'method' for years without noticeable issues however, the method you show is infinitely superior, worse still, I (like many of your viewers I'm sure?) already have the tool you describe, bought years ago to service a steering rack. All the Best.
Good on you for sticking to your guns on this and being right and humble about it. I have to admit as a home bike mechanic i use the Hambini pin punch method and accept that if it works it is more due to the abuse tolerance of the materials involved. I'd love to invest in a blind hole puller but you know I buy many complete bikes for less and thats where the money goes.
Great video! Beautifully presented. Hambini is a very smart guy. He has a lot of great knowledge. Shame it's wrapped up in an immature approach to communication
I think it’s an act, my feeling is he uses it as a sort of coping mechanism, I remember kids at school and even University that always used lots of swearing and rude language as they thought this would make them seem cool, they based their entire personality on it… but it’s just a theory. 🤷🏻♂️
@@reginaldscot165 I think it's a bit for youtube that's become his internet personality. His interviews are less over the top. Furthermore Habini's written communication doesn't go as far as his video persona as your comment exchange demonstrates.
@@gerrymcbride6429 Yup. understood. I personally think he could have been just as successful without being that way, but whatever the case, it's working for him. It's just not my cuppa tea. Shame though as he's a smart cookie for sure.
I mean damn, humbling. You have my respect sir. It’s one thing to type out a response it’s another to go into detail on how one is wrong and have the method of removing it the correct way. And in a manner of humility. Hopefully Hambini will see this and come to a similar conclusion.
Overall good video. Maybe a little overly defensive, but mostly insightful and well produced. One small tip: If you are right handed, set the camera to your left. Better to see your fingers than your shoulder.
Here's something to chew on before concluding Hambini is right: 1) Hambini points to the wrong side of the spacer that never was touched by the bearing puller. 2) At 22:47 you can see that the bearing puller does not extend beyond the bearing, certainly not enough to damage the spacer. 3) Even if the puller did contact the spacer, this is a steel spacer, steel because aluminum ones too easily deform and steel ones don't. And at 18:11 it's pretty obvious that the amount of torque applied to the bearing puller is not enough to deform the spacer. You would need to buldge the steel spacer beyond it's yield point for it to deform. That's not what happens. So while I can understand where Hambini is coming from theoretically, his a model of reality, it does not apply to what actually is going on here.
I will save this video just for pleasure. My company sold building materials (won't say which kind) and on public projects we were forced to tolerate civil engineers in order to sell. They were the most arrogant people I ever dealt with (except one). As one commenter put it, nothing is right unless it comes out of their brain. I watched one Hambini video, didn't get more than halfway through it, and turned it off never to go back. I'm retired. I don't need that nonsense in my life any longer. I looked in vain to see if Hambini watched this (I'd bet an expensive dinner that he did) and gallantly tipped his cap and admitted he was wrong. Didn't see that. Besides all that, this was a very informative video. I'll be looking for more. Thank you.
I’ve been a professional mechanic for over a decade. Worked in high and low end shops with shit mechanics and fantastic mechanics. Not one single mechanic I’ve worked with uses bearings extractors for hub bearings. Even if they use bearings extractors for frame bearings. This is such a minuscule thing to make a half hour video on jfc
Noted: I have seen mechanics in some shops use bearing pullers. 🙂 I guess you were unlucky? Also the video was about the argument we had about if you could do it a different way. And I showed it can be done differently. 😁
www.hambini.cc/
The link everyone wants.
That's really messed up, dude is stubborn, and strong headed in his opinions but it doesn't mean he should be stalked for it. Weirdos.
@@frondantriebIt's pretty disturbing to see they put a picture of his wife on that website, like YIKES!!!
I definitely wouldn't want a picture of my wife on a creepy stalker website especially as she didn't give permission for it either.
That's the way almost all motor cycle wheels are made, internal spacer between bearings.
Even a gentle pull like that may Brinnel bearing and race so it shouldn't be refitted. (bearings shouldn't be removed and re-fitted)
You should have heated the hub before pulling as the aluminium expands much faster and further than the larger mass of steel bearing.
Boiling water is more than enough
The key word is “may.” 😉
I don’t know anyone in the industry that heats the hubs before… but it’s not a bad idea.
All the best. 👍🏻
This is the best form of flattery I’ve seen for Hambini 🎉 congratulations 🎉
Super 👍🏻🙂
Excellent video. I place a large thick washer onto the hub for the puller legs to sit on - hopefully to distribute the pressure (and in this case save the spoke end housings).
You see this 👆🏻This ladies and gentlemen is an excellent comment! 10/10 what a good idea! 👏🏻
@@reginaldscot165 Thank you very much - from a humble shed mechanic
Be fair to Hambini, he is only aged 5.
I know, i feel bad about it… 😉
Lol... kindergarten.. pls give chance... lol
It’s child abuse 😮
😂
WHY...??? WHAT N' F'N WASTE OF BANDWIDTH,........
Just goes to show you, never argue with a five year old. Very nice demonstration and a nice set of tools.
Lol. Great comment
Thank you! Well my kid is only 1 at the moment so I guess I will find that out at some point. 😂
But she does like to say “no no no nooo no no no no no…” 🤭
@@reginaldscot165 Ah, 'the terrible twos' are coming.
That five year old Hambini however filled quite a void on quality control issues around bottom brackets.
@@IronHorsey3 No argument there. I do have respect for the guy, seriously, I just don't worship him. I get he's a little gruff on his channel but no need to be unnecessarily dismissive. I understand too that those tools are expensive and that excludes the home mechanic. And that is why I stick to the old cup and cone bearings.
A fun moment I once enjoyed: two engineers with masters degrees came and visited me & my best friend. My best friend offered to help them re-esemble their bikes & better ways to prep them for the plane ride. The arrogance of the engineers, helped them to rudely decline. We sat and drank beers watching them struggle. Now my friend watching was a bike mechanic. Such a good one that he has wrenched for a couple national teams. He & I had a great many laughs and beers. The only ones that lost were the arrogant engineers. Be humble because your worth it. Be respectful, because you have earned it. Know your/you're love.
Good story 🙂👍🏻
I wouldn’t trust those engineers even in their own field.
A good example why universities should not give up / re-introduce teaching classics to every student. Because it would teach young people the different notions of "knowledge" the greeks and romans differentiated; and with it humbleness as to not become overly confident to the point of arrogance as to the mere theoretical or very specialized character of their knowledge. The knowledge your bike mechanic friend possesses is called "phronesis" (ancient Greek), and was regarded as the most virtuous form of knowledge.
Wikipedia: "[It] is a type of wisdom or intelligence relevant to practical action in particular situations. It implies both good judgment and excellence of character and habits, and was a common topic of discussion in ancient Greek philosophy. Classical works about this topic are still influential today. In Aristotelian ethics, the concept was distinguished from other words for wisdom and intellectual virtues - such as episteme and sophia - because of its practical character. The traditional Latin translation is prudentia, which is the source of the English word 'prudence'."
@@B_COOPER one sadly has passed, however they were both top aeronautical engineers with a very large corporation working on classified government projects.
@@B_COOPER Yeah, pride comes before a fall.
I usually drill a large enough hole in a scrap of thin plywood and then use that to protect the surface I'm pulling or pushing against. Great video, must have tool and not expensive, either.
Yes that’s not a bad idea. 👍🏻🙂
Hambini is not wrong ever Park tool mechanic do that in their video even though they have the complete tool in their disposal..
I can’t tell if you are being serious or not?
In my experience as a technician in a factory, engineers are never wrong. Your explanation doesn't matter.
And hambini is the good example. everything is "Crap" except what comes out of his brain
Yikes! My dad was an engineer and I can relate! (Strongly!) Ha ha, I remember when we would argue, even if I was right… he would never concede. 🤭 But hay, we are all guilty of that sometimes, if I’m honest I’m quite stubborn as well. 🤦🏻♂️
Thank you for the comment!
blah blah blah, you go to school and get through all the calculus, thermo, fluids and materials classes and get back to me
@@dasboototto i don't know the level of your skills but in Belgium, I have a licence in electromechanics. And 20 years in aeronautical machining. So you must be this kind of ingeneers that I like!
I'm an engineer and you're wrong. Again. 😊
@@regisbrose4117 If you think engineers are bad, just wait until you work with physicist.
How come the end of the spacer is flared...??? Surely you have damaged the spacer
He managed to make it look like that didn’t he. Quite dishonest.
@@reginaldscot165 he did nothing to make it look that way... Unless he snuck into your workshop and used a fairing tool to deform the end of the tube.... Hambini and all the other bearing manufacturers are correct.... Sorry bro but its difficult to ream a reamer
@@reginaldscot165Re run the process and hold it up to a straight edge and shine a light thru? not hard to prove is it?
I am also a mechanic and have the right tools for the job and not just smacking away with a hammer and punch. Great video about the proper way.
Thank you 🙏🏻
One tip that I use for bearings is to freeze them before installing. The cold 'shrinks' the bearing making the installation quite effortless when using a press (as demonstrated)
Good idea, how do you cool it? What method? 🙂
@@reginaldscot165 if you had a phd in engineering you’d know that you can cool things like a bearing in a freezer
then how to prevent water condensation in cold bearing?
Thats how the real pro mechanics often do it. Its logical the best way.
@@scott_h6263you won't prevent it, but it won't last long before it evaporates and won't cause any damage to the bearing or hub
This is kind of funny in that usually it's the engineers who say things like "you should never use a hammer on bearings" and the mechanics saying "that's theoretical bullshit, I've used a hammer all my life, no problem", this time it's the other way around. I'm in the latter group, I know bearing pullers exist and use them if I have one but I work as a heavy truck mechanic at a garage that services multiple brands of vehicles so we don't have all the brand-specific special tools which means we have to improvise and often that means using a hammer and a drift instead of a proper puller.
I also work on bicycles and motorcycles as a hobby and while I have only disassembles a couple of bicycle hubs I've done dozens of motorcycle ones which are a very similar design. Some spacers on motorcycles even have small notches at the end to fit narrow puller legs but as I of course don't have a special puller like that I drift the bearings out. I don't usually use a small pin punch, I prefer a brass or aluminium rod with a diameter maybe a few millimeters less than the bearing's inner race so the drift will contact a larger portion of the bearing's circumference.
Specific tools are nice and handy if you have them but I personally have never had any problems using a hammer and a punch. If you are gentle and take care not to cock the bearing in the bore there's no damage except maybe to the bearing itself and usually the only reason to remove a bearing is to replace it so no need to worry about damaging it as it's going to the bin anyway. And pulling the bearing by the inner race is likely to damage the raceways and lead to a failure at a later date anyway even if it's a gentler method than drifting it out so bearings should still be replaced every time they are removed unless they can be pressed out without exerting force on the rolling elements which of course is not possible on bike hub bearings.
Bearings are relatively cheap so at work I replace them every time when I remove a hub for some reason if there's even a slightest doubt about their condition like any roughness or leakage of the seals or if the service records show they have done extensive mileage even if they still seem fine. The wheel bearing set for a heavy truck will still be a couple of hundreds of euros but on the other hand the disassembly and reassembly is about 2-3 hours of work and a bearing failure on the road may cause expensive hub and axle damage, towing expenses and needless down time for the vehicle. On a bicycle the risks and costs involved are obviously much lower but on the other hand the bearings cost next to nothing (unless you use some fancy ceramic ones) and, as said, there's really no reason to remove the modern sealed hub bearings other than to replace them. Old style hubs with loose cones and balls are obviously a different story.
Very in depth comment. 👍🏻🙂
Problem with this Reginald kid is that he's so desperate to one-up Hambini, because Hambini is a big name, and the kid wants that clout. So, he has to go out of his way to say "Hambini wrong. I correct." Hambini punches up at big, powerful entities in the cycling industry; while this guy is punching at someone who is just a watchdog trying to keep the industry honest. His comments about Hambini in this comments section show how childish and petty he is. In Hambini's video and comments section, he was being quite respectful, and wasn't being the least bit derisive toward Reg. He isn't spamming his comments section with disrespectful, insulting crap like "Reginald is dishonest," "I'm very disappointed in him," and "he still hasn't admitted being wrong."
All that aside, let's talk about the technicality of the techniques themselves. The puller is probably expensive, and unnecessary. It's a fact that the puncher + hammer, when done carefully avoids damage very well. Any novice mechanic, with some patience and common sense, can easily execute this simple technique. The puller can be useful once the spacer is out, to take out the other bearing.
@@tigonridge 1) Hambini points to the wrong side of the spacer that never was touched by the bearing puller (strawman). So it's more likely Hambini was the one desperate to not be one-upped by a lowly bike mechanic. 2) At 22:47 you can see that the bearing puller does not extend beyond the bearing, certainly not enough to damage the spacer. 3) Even if the puller did contact the spacer, this is a steel spacer. And at 18:11 it's pretty obvious that the amount of torque applied to the bearing puller is not enough to deform the spacer. You would need to buldge the steel spacer beyond it's yield point for it to deform. That's not what happens. 4) Hambini's whole video is essentially disrespecting Reginald, baiting the audience with a title that he'd been reamed, only to use sarcasm and irony to fire back at the lowly mechanic.
I have no dog in this race. I couldn't care less who is right. Just what is right. In this case Reginald is in the right.
You’re running the risk of indenting and deforming the hub with this method due to the feet of the puller contacting the hub face. A spacer ring should be used to dissipate the more equally. Also bearings have Radii not chamfers which allow it to sit square in the housing and help eliminate stress.
Great comment 👍🏻🙂
He said there was a risk to the edge of the hub, but that this one looked strong enough. I personally would have used a washer that matched the diameter of the hub for extra protection. Still I think much less risk than hammering the bearings out and potentially causing the hole to deform like Hambini did.
@@reginaldscot165 I am surprised your puller set doesn’t include a set of steel foot washers in various diameters.
I agree. I would use a large washer.
Awesome video. Thanks for taking the time to show the proper way. Hopefully Hambini acknowledges this video soon!
Thank you kindly 🙏🏻
the best thing about this video is the manner in which it highlights once again (if its ever still needed) the narcissistic hubris of Hambini - chapeau Mr Scott 👍
Well I’m glad you enjoyed it.
All the best! 🙂👍🏻
This was awesome! I watched it twice. Don’t sell yourself short. You are clearly very intelligent. I would love a video on how you deal with a not very tight press fit BB. Retaining compound?
Thank you and I appreciate your comment and suggestions 🙏🏻🙂
I've got a 2014 Specialized Camber that needed a BB change a couple of years ago. The mechanic said the BB was pretty loose so he used Loctite to make sure it stays put. Two years/5,000 miles later and it's still good. No idea if it's going to be a problem in the future.
I need to bring popcorn 🍿. Can’t wait how it will unravel with this oil refinery thing
Save some for me
Not one profanity or put down of someone in this whole video. Nicely done. I will continue to watch you.
Thank you, very kind. 🙏🏻
Wow, this is great content for people like me who are interested in the technique, but though have no clue from a professional perspective. I really appreciate your explanation! I like your scientific approach saying everybody makes mistakes and nobody knows everything so we can profit one from another. You have a new subscriber 😊
Yes I strongly believe in that as a philosophy. 🙂 We all take on different information as we all have different lives. But it’s like a living internet, together we know everything there is to know about every subject.
Like from the comments on this video I have learned some really interesting things and how to improve my tools and techniques. 💪🏼🙂
Thank you for your nice comment! 👍🏻
Now I like most home mechanics have been educated. Thank you great explanation.
You are very welcome! 🙏🏻
Well done, you are a smart mechanic. Enjoyed your video, & learnt a lot. Thankyou.
Greetings from Melbourne down under.
Thank you kindly 🙏🏻
I'm happy to say I don't have this problem, since I'm only interested in bicycles that have cup-and-cone bearings. Campagnolo made these (even with hollow axles) through the late 90's. I can service them easily myself without special tools. Not everything new-fangled is necessarily better :-)
That is often very true. 👍🏻
What a plot twist! 🤣🤣🤣 Can’t wait for the explanation to the refinery thing.
Me too
The bike universe is a better place with both Reginald and Hambini in it 👌 thoroughly enjoyed this video 😄👍
Aww 🥰 Hambini and I are touched by your lovely comment. 🙏🏻
Hambini is just pushing overpriced bottom brackets. He is not the god of engineering because he doesn't understand the concept of "good enough".
🤯 Just when we thought we knew the real hambini, this info hits like a bombshell!
Boom 🤯
Aerospace engineer gets schooled by expat bike mechanic 🍿
🤭 something like that… I will get my popcorn 🍿 for the comments. 😅
He is a janitor/ handyman at a municipal airport. Please stop with the aerospace engineer nonsense
@@patricasensio6074 yeah, this is the feedback loop between engineering and production/operation that is fundamental for improvement and good engineering practices. @Hambini speaks a lot about the importance of this on a few of his videos.
My initial comment is in line with @Hambini style of humor. And i appreciate both for the content and discussion around this.
@@phenofinder9145 is he really? The way he presents himself makes it sound like he’s leading rolls Royce on all engineering matters.
@@mopedmarathon 😂
Great vid. I use those blind bearing pullers for bearings in the linkage etc where you can't get a press/pusher into.
Me too! Thanks!
Very interesting and educational video thanks. Professionally presented too. Class act 👌🏼 💯 agree with your approach to this, NO ONE knows everything. There is always somebody who knows more or has a better/more effective solution to a problem. Always be humble and listen to others. You may learn something.
Thank you, yes I try to lean something and I have learned a lot from the comments so far. 🙂👍🏻
Hambini cc really? This is actually funny. Well done for hiding it for so long. Oil refinery worker - crazy!
Well done for lying and deception?
Depends how tight the inner spacer is to the bearing and how thick the chamoher on your puller is. Lots of hubs are designed where there is a lip on one side but the other bearing pushes in until it contacts the spacer (bontrager mtb hubs for example) so you might not be able to get a puller on.
Exactly. That tube spacer is a toleranced part designed to preload and take out bearing's axial clearance. Perfectly acceptable to knock a bearing out using a drift, provided you are careful and not a ham-fisted troll. Also acceptable to use a puller! Although in this video it actually looks as if this chap has actually damaged and flared out the inner tube spacer by using the blind puller collet. I've never seen a flared spacer like that on a hundred wheels. May be wrong though, but looks that way.
Perhaps 🤔
Thanks for the comment! 👍🏻
Looks can be Deceiving, As was Hambinis entire video….
@@PeakTorque Allrounder Bicycle
Hambini essentially administers an Asch Conformity Experiment: 1) Hambini's attempt to show that the spacer is deformed is misleading as he explains the up tick of the light deflection on the opposite side of the spacer that was never was touched by the bearing puller. 2) This is a steel spacer. And at 18:11 it's pretty obvious that the amount of torque applied to the bearing puller is not enough to deform the spacer. You would need to buldge the steel spacer beyond it's yield point for it to deform. That's not what happens. 3) At 22:47 you can see that the bearing puller does not extend beyond the bearing, certainly not enough to damage the spacer.
@@PeakTorque You need to look at quality wheels.
idk if anyone else has suggested this, but you can use a zip-tie or a tube tightener to tighten the puller's legs together so that you get the bearing out without any resistance.
That’s a good point 👍🏻🙂
well done, that is the difference between an engineer and a mechanic. you know the tools and have the experience .
Thank you, I had fun making the video and I’m glad people are getting something out of it. 🙏🏻
Once had to visit a site where the companies CNC pipe bending tool had a collapsed bearing. When I stripped the top end to reach the bearings someone at the factory (Italian machine) had fitted the top most outer bearing the wrong way so no internal chamfer for the bearing puller! Any form of welding a metal rod to aid pulling the bearing was not an option. In short I had to custom turn a bearing puller tool head that had near knife edges and after several attempts over a weekend managed to remove the old damaged bearings and fit new. My bill was well over a grand! The cost to the company was several thousands due to penalties incurred for downstream production stoppages. That's "JIT" production systems for you.
Moral of the tale, check the bearing is fitted the right way round or it will end in lots of tears!
That’s sounds like my previous job! 🤭 I had many times in factories fixing mistakes and broke machines/robots and it’s always made worse by the poor installation of the last guy who touched it. All the while knowing that the factory owner is losing $1000s a day from a down production line.
It’s funny, I kind of miss it. 😅
@Reginald Scot It can be lots of fun and games but not for the customer. Best learning experiences though, eh?
This is a better presentation on bearing pulling than the 5yr old supposed engineer ever did. Lots of very usefull information. Great work!
Thank you kindly 🙏🏻
Lol you have no idea what you are talking about 🤣🤣🤣🤣
Just seen Hambini's reply - ungracious and full of misinformation (as usual). - Mark twain once said " Never argue with an idiot. They will drag you down to their level and beat you with experience."
Yes that’s what I thought. I’m glad you were not fooled by his misdirection like many seem to have been… 🤦🏻♂️
Thank you for the supportive comment. 🙏🏻
@Martin C Thank you (but how did you now I was chartered?)
Very well done, with wise words. People are far to quick to condemn behind the security of a keyboard and most often anonymity. Kudos to you. 👏🏻👏🏻
Thank you kindly 🙂
23:44 you can see the tubes edge is slightly pushed out. tube was damaged in the end.
Please watch the latest video on this. The tube is not damaged. 👍🏻
I'm generally inclined to believe there's a misunderstanding between the two of you. Text is a poor medium for communication ideas, especially mechanical ones. This is especially true on the internet which encourages pithy responses. Your video demonstrates why diagrams are important in explaining how things work- it clarifies what parts you are talking about and their relationship to each other. In my experiance many arguments between engineers, mechanics, & managers are resolved as "we acutally agree" or "oh that's what you meant" once they take the time to draw things out on a white board and clarify what they are trying to say.
Nice thought 🙂👍🏻
You could argue that the tool you use is too expensive for the removal of a low spinning bearing like a bicycle wheel bearing, it’s not a turbo... Tapping it out is also possible when bearing is at end of life. I remember the video of too expensive BB’s….;)…anyway, i agree with you way of doing it. I would always opt for the bearing pooler over the hammer when there is enough space and available tools. It’s good you show everybody these tools exist.
Thank you. 👍🏻
It's interesting to note that my two favourite bike mechanics are both keen on their persuaders.
🤭 as long as you are happy. 😉
Persuaders, otherwise known as big heavy hammers. Not many people would know that !
I need to go and grap popcorn. this is going to be fun. Refinery specialist!
It’s going to be a good show…
I would say there is more than 1 way to skin a cat, ie you are both right in the way you get the bearings in and out. In our shop we only use bearing pullers when we are just servicing the bearings, and replacing again. This mainly is for ceramic bearings. If the bearings are going to be replaced it is much faster and easier to punch them out, and we have never damaged a hub in doing so. I think you are both great regardless :)
Thank you for your comment. 🙏🏻
They are both right but less violence is always a better option .That's why tools approved by UCI have eradicated the use of hammers etc .Its best practice
There is no such thing as UCI approved tools?
@ChuckTalks Funny that BSC tools sell a UCI RECOMMENDED bottom bracket remover ,UCI use them in all their workshop courses .
@@JaiJai71104 There is a difference between UCI approved and UCI recommended. Just because they recommend it in their workshop doesn't mean it is the end all be all of tools.
The lowly bike mechanic should've taken off that brake rotor before performing this service. Just saying.
So many have said. 👍🏻 But, no damage done. Rotor was checked before returning it to the bike and it was true. It was also cleaned. 🙂
You got a response from Hambini. I agree with some of what Hambini said. I also never replace a bearing that has been removed by either method. It could be damaged, or slightly worn and going to cause problems later on. I'm wary of damaging the spacer as well. Bearings are relatively cheap, but spacers may be difficult to get.
Right Ho! 🙂
I think the end of the tube Hambini suggests is "flared" is from the other side of the hub, you pull the tube out of the hub with your fingertip by the end which was in contact with the bearing puller. Watching it back and trying to focus on just one end of the tube is like watching David Blaine trying to misdirect you
@@Laundry_Hamper@Reginald Scot . I watched this video again. At 23:24.paused it. It actually looks like it may be oil on the end of the spacer. Also again at 23:43 which is about the time Hambini showed the 'flaring' 7:06 on Hambini's video. Watch this video again and after 3 times. Reginald puts the spacer back in the reverse, which doesn't matter. I would personally replace the bearing anyway.
@@UKMitchy
I noticed the same. Hambini picks on the wrong side of the spacer, the side that never was touched by the puller. The deflection of light looks very much like a thick oil or thin grease.
Wrong. Bearings are able to withstand some smashing. It's hard steel. What do you think happens when you hit a pot hole?!
Bet you did an Ace Ventura style celebration dance! 😂 "Can you feeeeel it" Good work.
Not yet, but I might after the next video… 😅
Just what youtube needs. Some normal people. Thanks mate
Ha ha, I’ve never been called normal before! 🤭
@@reginaldscot165 We all learnt something useful without all the bull%$&t. You're normal 👍
Well done. This should leave no doubt as to the proper way. The hammer and punch is and has always been a roadside method. Thanks!
Ha ha, on the road side it’s a bike pump and a rock! 😅
Thank you, nice comment! 🙏🏻
roadside and industrial shop way of popping out bearings but they are much bigger bearings allows for a more ham fisted approach :)
I was going to say Hambini is an engineer not a mechanic. Still, this video is well done. I do remember cringing when Hambini was blunt force trauma'ing the hub. A bearing extractor is much more humane. Nice work 👍
Thank you. 🙏🏻
Well done!
I totally agree with you on this point.
Nobody is perfect, and there is always something to learn and improve upon.
Just hope that Hambini takes it positively.
Me to! 🙂
@@reginaldscot165 It's 'too', not 'to'.......
Nice tooling.
As an amateur I use a large anchor bolt to lock on the inner race, a heavy duty pvc pipe coupling to rest the hub on then tap it out with a long drift hitting the center of the anchor bolt . All up cost about £1.00 .
Nice 👌🏻
Looking forward to seeing your response to Hambini’s video
Yes I need to make one, very disappointed in him actually. 🤦🏻♂️
that website is a proper reaming of hambini🤣 my god i was not expecting to see an oil refinery job.
Indeed 🤔
I enjoyed the tone, expertise, and light and friendly diss. As a rule of thumb, I trust more the people who have a lot of questions, than the ones who have a lot of answers. Great content.
Nice comment. I like that saying, do you mind if I take it for myself? 🙂
That is a knacky little bearing puller, perfect for that application. Crazy that the bike mechanic knows how to work on a bike eh ;-)
I know right? Who’d a thought? 😉👍🏻
The problem that most people don't address is what do you do when the inner race fails and your left with the outer race stuck in the hub.
I've had frame pivot bearings that could only be removed by a thin screw driver and hammer (demo 8 main pivot bearings)
They are really thin and are prone to breaking during removal.
These pulling tool's only work when bearings are still in pretty good condition (They are only squeaking and creaking because somehow water has managed to get in) but otherwise they are fine structurally.
Usually by the time you detect they need changing is when they are already at the point of falling apart (play in bearings etc) which usually means the inner race will just pull apart with minimal force.
You can still pull the outer race out.
@@reginaldscot165 Didn't actually know that.
I alway's assumed they only made bit's to fit the inner race only.
That might be a useful video to make if you come across a completely fucked wheel in the future.
This is the same tool and method I used to remove the bearings from my Axis 4.0 scs freehub when replacing them. This also had a preload tube. Worked perfectly!
Excellent! 💪🏼
Absolutely brilliant video! You can also use non flanged pullers like those from Wheels Mfg, as long as you don't allow it to drop into the sleeve before expanding. It's the exact same way to service a freehub body with a preload sleeve. The only issue I have with this vid is that I wanted to make a video on this topic and now there's no point! Really glad to have found your channel and a like-minded soul 😀
That’s such a nice comment! Really appreciate it, welcome aboard! 😁👍🏻
Ahh ya¿
I was expecting a more sophisticated and precise answer from you Reginald.
There has got to be an extraction puller that engages the inside lips of the end cap, so as not to damage the nicely finished exterior shell.
The vice could squeeze to hard, and the vice grips's teeth could possibly penetrate the cloth upon being wiggled about while pulling.
A thick piece of good leather and the vice grips sounds safer, eh?
Should ask Sir. Hambijni on this one?🤷🏼♂️
I have 100s of comments to answer so you will forgive me for not giving you a detailed step by step explanation.
I was answering the question to someone I believe was doing it at home with limited experience and equipment. I’m obviously not going to suggest some random tool that possibly costs $100s, most people who want to do it themselves are trying to save money, if you have a lot of money and you only want to do it 1 time I suggest you take it to your LBS. No, you won’t crush them, unless you are a careless gorilla, 😅 Also the end caps are normally replaceable at low cost so if you do scratch them it’s not the end of the world. A permanent marker is also a solution. I’m sure I can talk longer on this subject but I have other people to answer. 🙂
Good video. Didn't know these types of bearing pullers existed. Really useful. Being poor all my bicycles have cup and cone bearings on the wheels, so not relevant for those but really good for my motorcycle wheel hubs. Strangely enough motorcycle wheels are built with the same system ie a spacer between bearings. A good example of "you don't know what you don't know".
Cup and cone is fine, shimano still use it on their expensive carbon wheels. 🙂👍🏻
Cup and cone are bulletproof, with yearly service they will last forever
All in all, this was a very interesting and educational comments section on a cycling repair related video.
Firstly, I found the original very informative in that it provided another solution to a common problem, but then in the comments, viewers were able to add and expand on that with their own solution to the possibility (that Reginald mentioned) of the bearing puller stressing the hub if not placed in the correct position by suggesting methods of mounting the bearing puller that would distribute the stress evenly across the hub while other suggested pushing the bearing extractor out instead of pulling it.
The cycling community at its best on display here.
PS, for the naysayers....
Sets similar to the "unobtainable" bearing press and extractor set are widely available online for the price of a couple of pints of beer. Amazon and Ebay have many different type sets of them for around £20.
Excellent comment and I agree with you. 👍🏻🙂
I use a similar tool but I use a thick piece of pvc pipe and a big washer instead of the metal extractor so almost zero chance of damaging the hub face. Surprised you didn't remove the Rotor though? Especially when re-installing the bearing on the bench, some of them bend just by looking at them.
Excellent idea! Yeah, thankfully it’s not a customers wheel and I wasn’t putting any pressure on it. Also secretary I hate disc brakes. 😆
You made hambini look really bad 😞. He will never ever work on my mountain bike. Perfect video.
Thank you kindly. 🙏🏻
I'm looking forward to see Hambini's reaction to this
🙈🙉 tell me when it’s over! 🤭
Reginald & H both offer great advice. What's not to like.
Excellent way to look at it. 👍🏻🙂
I really enjoyed this. Great message there at the end, Reginald.
Thank you, I appreciate your input! 🙏🏻
l like what you did here and explaining quite well how to do this properly and why :)
Thank you. I tried. 🙂
As a mechanical engineer, I learnt that you should never re-use a bearing that had been removed because it can be damaged even if you use the correct tool as you did. This is because you apply the force to the inner race which is transmitted through the ball bearings to the outer race. This can damage the race tracks and cause roughness when the bearing rotates. When you install a new bearing using the correct tool, the force is only applied to the outer race which is slightly wider than the inner race. This is not usually a problem because you would only remove a bearing if it needed to be replaced with a new one. Also, in my opinion, Hambini is not a professional engineer or he would know this (perhaps he's an electrical engineer).
Check out his recent video. He basically says exactly what you just said
Noted 👍🏻🙂
@msyahnaz Depends what is meant by engineer. There are different requirements and definitions depending on the country you are in.
@@msyahnaz3325 Agreed. That's how it is where I am, but in the USA and even in the UK, the term "engineer" is not well defined and anyone can call themselves an engineer if they want. For example, I understand that in the US, train drivers are also known as engineers and you don't need a degree for that.
Just watched a video by Hambini for the first time (about ceramic bearings vs steel) and I take it back. He definitely knows about bearings at an engineering level. I was just surprised about the video excerpt showing his bearing removal technique but, if you don't have the correct extractor, this is ok so long as you are careful not to damage the housing.
very professional and awesome video!
Thank you very much! Much appreciated. 👍🏻
The whole premise of his video was trashing Hunt, so it didn’t matter what collateral damage he causes to the hub. In my opinion, Hunt make excellent wheels (I own three sets).
Not a fan of hunt personally, but I certainly wouldn’t hit a customers wheel with a hammer even if I don’t agree with their choice of products. 🤭😅
Yeh drifting with a punch is a perfectly fine method, the hammer is still effective whether ball peen or copper. Maintenance engineer here plus a hunt wheel owner.
Bearing pullers are great, if you have clearance.
The right tool for the job. 👍🏻
I like how Peak Torque owns up to his errors and trys to correct them, either in the comments or in a further video. No one is perfect and we're all continally learning. Hope we'll see Hambini do the same.
Nice! I didn’t know he did that?
@@reginaldscot165 Yes, most recently on the SRAM Eagle derailleur, he corrected some mis-assumptions he'd made. it's good, as it then makes his points more valid if he's prepared to take on knowledge he's learnt from others
@@a1white I unsubscribed from Peak Torque when he tried to sell 180mm disc adapters for road bikes with bullshit reasons like the sponsored 'shills' give he and Hambini often mock
@@markb9571 180mm for road?
@@reginaldscot165 Yep!
At 14:00 you just proved why the method of removing by giving it a tap is also valid because the distance d(edge to edge) is greater than the distance between d(edge and the smoothed outer surface angle), THUS reducing the diameter in non-horizontal alignment, making it easier to tap it out without damage. Also, btw once you have access to any internal working you would usually, hopefully clean the surface before reinserting anything.
Define “valid.”
And no, that is not how it works, twisting is never better than a straight pull. I speak from experience watching many a bearing getting wedged in a hub because someone over drove the bearing with the impact from the hammer.
I appreciate your attempt.
I really enjoy Hambini's videos but I am delighted to watch this and hope he accepts your correction.
Simple and well explained, well done
Thank you 🙏🏻
Also use a bearing puller. Currently use a slide hammer with the bearing puller. But think I will also get or make the top part or the bearing extraction tool. Thanks for sharing
That would be great! Good luck. 👍🏻🙂
This was a great video thanks for sharing this info!
Hambini is a bit like Durianrider. Makes some valid points and highlights issues, but the delivery style leaves a lot to be desired. It’s almost like they recruit disciples and have formed a cult when you read their comments sections 😂
Top work man! This video has me subscribed 👍
Hay! You will give Durian rider a bad name! 😂
Yes I feel the same way to some extent, it’s kind of a natural process of becoming internet famous. You get followers who hang on your every word and that can be dangerous… also to stay relevant the UA-cam personality needs to be more extreme. I feel that Hambini probably isn’t like that in real life, it’s just an act he puts on because his fans like it when he says something rude. That’s what people come back for.
@@reginaldscot165 I totally agree, the loudest voice gets the most attention. However lots of bad attention isn’t as worthy as less good attention IMO.
This video has made me subscribe, keep up the good work I much prefer straight to the point info like this instead of the drama from the likes of the other guys we’ve mentioned and I’m sure I’m not alone 👍
Would slide hammer do the job of pulling the bearing without touching the hub
This is a very specific set of tools right there... 👏👏👏👏👏
Sounds like Taken… 😉
My mechanic has used this method in the past on some wheels. It does not work on the vast majority of wheels though. On zipp wheels the spacer tube is not chamfered and there isn't enough space to get the legs in. He also said hunt wheels are garbage and the axles break constantly. This was also on the video by Francis Cade's mechanic who said the same thing.
Yes that’s true…
Different methods with other Brand’s. 👍🏻🙂
I have a set of Hunt wheels with this arrangement and, tbh, didn't give it a second thought when swapping bearings. I use the bearing extractors from Bearing Pro Tools (UK made, highly recommended), which install much like yours but are specifically sized to the thickness of the bearing. I then tightened up and knocked out with a punch from the opposite side. It probably took longer to type this than to do it.
One recommendation that I always make is to apply gentle heat to the bearing/hub interface. Aluminium (hub) expands more than steel (bearing) for a given amount of heat, so this will naturally loosen the bearing interface and usually means the most gentle of taps will release the bearing. Obviously too much heat would be very bad, but as 100C is about the right temperature, I just swill a little water from a boiled kettle over the bearing before knocking it out. As I'm typically replacing them anyway, the water can't damage anything and it means that almost no force needs to be applied to the hub. Obviously, the replacements are pressed in, with a thin slither of grease to ensure they'll come out again next time!
Thanks for the video.
Excellent comment 👍🏻 thanks for the tips.
Very good ending message that resonates very well and everyone should follow: Evryone makes mistakes. Be kind. We would all be better if we managed things with kindness. But well… that does not sell as well as ranting so…
Ha ha, that’s true. 😁
I made a similar puller using a masonry rawl bolt, works well.
Cool! You should do a video and show us how you did it. 🙂👍🏻
I removed a front bearing on my DT Swiss H1900 the hammer and pin punch method, I really didn't think I'd started it off bad but when I flipped the wheel to have a look I realised I'd gone way too far with just two hits and twisted the bearing in the hub... I got it out and the hub has some light rippling now to the inside, but I ordered a bearing puller(and press kit) for doing the rest... The new bearings all go in fine but with that one iffy one I really just did get away with it.... maybe the problem is I'm a stonemason to trade and didn't use a Park shop hammer but my 4lb mash hammer lol
Ha ha maybe! Yes it’s an easy mistake to make. I had a set of special drifts for DT Swiss wheels and you do use a mallet, but the drifts keep everything straight. 🙂👍🏻
Hambini’s gone rogue 😅 I guess finally you got reamed. Refinery worker - pure GOLD
He did
The most humble roasting I've seen!
I love it! Keep up the good work!
Thank you kindly. 🙏🏻
Hello Reginald. I remember that I followed on your comment in the Hambini video, thinking exactly about / suggesting this method. 6 months later UA-cam found me back and recommended me your video. I am not an engineer nor a mechanic (I am a “people mechanic”), just a bike enthusiast that likes to do some work on his bike. My father had some mechanical skills and taught me how to use tools when I was a kid. I am glad you took the time to do this video and contribute to the global knowledge. As you said, blind worshipping leads to zero evolution in our knowledge. Thank you!
You are very welcome and thank you for coming and watching. Yes I appreciate your input and you don’t have to be a qualified anything to have some talent for mechanical work… it’s actually quite different from being an Engineer. Some people just have a predisposition to all things mechanical.
All the best! I hope you return to my channel sometime. 🙂🙏🏻
Thanks Reg, I've been using the Hambini 'method' for years without noticeable issues however, the method you show is infinitely superior, worse still, I (like many of your viewers I'm sure?) already have the tool you describe, bought years ago to service a steering rack. All the Best.
Thank You! I’m glad it was helpful. 🙂
Photos and the map locations of Prax look very convincing. this refinery is very close to his house. Looks legit.
It does
Good on you for sticking to your guns on this and being right and humble about it. I have to admit as a home bike mechanic i use the Hambini pin punch method and accept that if it works it is more due to the abuse tolerance of the materials involved. I'd love to invest in a blind hole puller but you know I buy many complete bikes for less and thats where the money goes.
Thank you 🙏🏻
Lol wrong 🤣🤣🤣🤣
Those tools look satisfying to use
Yes they are my favourite tools to be honest. Working on wheel hubs can be nice, especially if they are already clean like this one! 😅
Great video! Beautifully presented. Hambini is a very smart guy. He has a lot of great knowledge. Shame it's wrapped up in an immature approach to communication
I think it’s an act, my feeling is he uses it as a sort of coping mechanism, I remember kids at school and even University that always used lots of swearing and rude language as they thought this would make them seem cool, they based their entire personality on it… but it’s just a theory. 🤷🏻♂️
@@reginaldscot165 Yeah, but tiring after a while.
@@reginaldscot165 I think it's a bit for youtube that's become his internet personality. His interviews are less over the top. Furthermore Habini's written communication doesn't go as far as his video persona as your comment exchange demonstrates.
That is an online persona which gets him followers.
@@gerrymcbride6429 Yup. understood. I personally think he could have been just as successful without being that way, but whatever the case, it's working for him. It's just not my cuppa tea. Shame though as he's a smart cookie for sure.
I use some thin pieces of ply under the feet of the bearing puller to protect the metal :)
That’s a good idea, a metal washer has also been suggested 👍🏻
I mean damn, humbling. You have my respect sir. It’s one thing to type out a response it’s another to go into detail on how one is wrong and have the method of removing it the correct way. And in a manner of humility. Hopefully Hambini will see this and come to a similar conclusion.
That’s very kind of you. 🙏🏻
@@reginaldscot165 if anything I’ve learned in life it’s taking the hard knocks of being wrong and admitting it
My guess is that hambini knows this but assumes not everybody has a puller. 🤷
@@ericdixon2898 rather hear it from him than guessing
Hambi just follows the instructions that the majority of manufacturers provide. AKA using a mallet or hammer
Overall good video. Maybe a little overly defensive, but mostly insightful and well produced.
One small tip: If you are right handed, set the camera to your left. Better to see your fingers than your shoulder.
Good advice. 👍🏻
i'd suggest,do your research first before saying wrong. Probably he has big explanation about it.
Maybe, but that wasn’t why I said he was wrong. 😉
Here's something to chew on before concluding Hambini is right: 1) Hambini points to the wrong side of the spacer that never was touched by the bearing puller. 2) At 22:47 you can see that the bearing puller does not extend beyond the bearing, certainly not enough to damage the spacer. 3) Even if the puller did contact the spacer, this is a steel spacer, steel because aluminum ones too easily deform and steel ones don't. And at 18:11 it's pretty obvious that the amount of torque applied to the bearing puller is not enough to deform the spacer. You would need to buldge the steel spacer beyond it's yield point for it to deform. That's not what happens.
So while I can understand where Hambini is coming from theoretically, his a model of reality, it does not apply to what actually is going on here.
I will save this video just for pleasure. My company sold building materials (won't say which kind) and on public projects we were forced to tolerate civil engineers in order to sell. They were the most arrogant people I ever dealt with (except one). As one commenter put it, nothing is right unless it comes out of their brain. I watched one Hambini video, didn't get more than halfway through it, and turned it off never to go back. I'm retired. I don't need that nonsense in my life any longer. I looked in vain to see if Hambini watched this (I'd bet an expensive dinner that he did) and gallantly tipped his cap and admitted he was wrong. Didn't see that.
Besides all that, this was a very informative video. I'll be looking for more. Thank you.
The pressure is on! I will try to meet your standards and make better videos. 🙂👍🏻 Thank you.
So busy, so busy Regi, make a video of the proper procedure.
Your up! 🫵🏻
🫡
"The torch is working" 😂
You have the best name I’ve seen. 😂👍🏻
🥩🫡
😂
Absolutely brilliant! Thanks
You're very welcome. 👍🏻
I’ve been a professional mechanic for over a decade. Worked in high and low end shops with shit mechanics and fantastic mechanics. Not one single mechanic I’ve worked with uses bearings extractors for hub bearings. Even if they use bearings extractors for frame bearings. This is such a minuscule thing to make a half hour video on jfc
Think you missed the part where Hambini challenged Reginald to post a video to prove his claims
@@phillysson7579 yeah I will definitely admit I didn’t watch most of the video so definitely take my response with a cupful of salt
Noted: I have seen mechanics in some shops use bearing pullers. 🙂 I guess you were unlucky? Also the video was about the argument we had about if you could do it a different way. And I showed it can be done differently. 😁
@@reginaldscot165 ahaha my lack of ability to concentrate on a video for more than 10 minutes really shows me up here 😂
That's the reason why I service my own bike !