Just a FYI the models with the aero integration of the brakes i would keep away from, the bottom bracket always gets dirty and compromises the braking. The front brake doesn't have a off centre leverage action like a caliper so need more force to apply the same braking. These designs were to give aero benefits which in my view would be peanuts anyway. I particularly avoided them when buying mine and got the standard integration.
@@NeoPayneHK The 795 is a shitty ride though. At least the frame in L size I have owned. Vertically very stiff, yet wet noodles laterally due to the NACA tubing not being torsionally stiff enough. The aluminium bb insert would often dis-bond too. The stem on that bike was bendy - I can twist the handlebar an inch up/down each side. The Blade RS is far superior ride and I believe it is still available with rim brakes as a frame set for a special order.
Keep in mind his bb weighs 450g + over 600 grams for the crank set and you would be installing that in an already porky frame. All that to replace the weight of two bb65 bearings and 500g for the zed crankset including the chainrings.
695 is a brilliant bike, I bought one 18months ago based on your recommendation It have been my go to "do it all bike" since.........my Colnago's has been left in garage
FSA Goosamer is not using a pinn spanner for removal of the crankarm. It is sellf extracting with the use of the center bolt (Allen). The bottom bracket itself is a of regular threaded design.
They are perfectly serviceable. Just the bearings are a pain to get. And it may require a puller to get the interference bearing of its seat. But if you want to install bearings nobody is going to stop you.
The weight weenie in me crying at the added weight of a 105 over a cf crank. When I replaced my 695 with the 795 I asked if I could have a zed crank but wasn't possible
The pencil is working! Great vid! More like it please. What is the world's second and third best frame and crank sets? Chris, From somewhere in the Canadian Prairies. Thank you
19:40 So if i have a square taper tool, a ISIS tool and Hollowtech II tool what you are saying is, I need another tool to insert emove you BB65 bottom bracket? This is not good.
Also, wanted to ask your personal opinion/recommendation on best groupset for this 695 frame......red, record or ace? Maybe a combo of each? Apprecaite the help! Thanks!
The master class in Bottom Brackets….is a welcome education….if people are passionate about their cycling ..and the load, and power flow through the bottom bearings…it makes sense that that are bombproof and easy to fix or replace …..obviously with expensive bikes, super light bikes … and human error …. You end up with poor engineering…. I’ve had a creaky crank …and it’s horrible to live with ….and I’ve had SRAM noises, from break discs ….and it’s annoying…especially if they look great but in use are badly engineered….[ rubbish ] bless the hairy dresser with his Facom stuff …..
You deserved that smack in the face with the non drive-side crank arm, for looking so smug at the effortless spin test. Excellent video, love the attention to detail - screw thread retaining collar looked like a Cartier bracelet.
Bearing in mind that that galvanic corrosion will most likely go undetected, which grease would you recommend to prevent it. Copper grease, for it's anti seize properties, or just a general purpose grease?
Crankbolts do have a strange tendency to loosen up over time. I was surprised when I took out the chains for a clean. The bolts from the big and small chainring were loose. I never noticed anything unusual when I rode my bike recently. I even climbed steep gradients and fast descents with that.
@@iMadrid11 my 1x gravel bikes bolts always come loose! And it creaks like nobodies business. The road bike didn't creak at all running on 3 bolts instead of 5 !
Using the medium strength loctite for press fit bearings where the removal is 90* to the surface I see but with this solution requiring a spin to be removed I’m curious on your thoughts about how difficult it will be to essentially shear the loctite to remove. (Honestly wondering. No hidden joke here. I’m not an expert. Is this not really meant to be removed? If so why not go for a more permanent solution? I know you mentioned cup wear but is that even a thing on your bb? Wouldn’t that require some serious skill to damage?)
Thank you for that info,I've just bought a 695 light frame and im due to build it up when it arrives,ive been trying to find as much info about it as possible and one of the questions was iff the frame was di2 compatible,not only that but now I know what the screws are for. Thank you Richard 👍
Wouldn’t it be a good idea to secure the bearings with a very small amount of Loctite 638 or 648 when the seats are still O.K. in order to prevent them from spinning?
Yea or at least have the option to buy a more expensive crank with that system implemented, I'd love it and would certainly buy one for my trainer bike, I'd imagine bike fitters would also be crazy about it.
When will your "Hambini Racing BB65 Bottom Bracket Shimano Crankset (Black)" be back in stock to purchase? And "NTN 6810 LLB 50x65x7 Ultra Low Friction Seal LOOK BB65" is also out of stock.....I'm buying a new 695 and wanted to get these.... Also, can we still send you bikes for install? If som, how/instructions? thanks!
Great video! laughed so hard when you mentioned greasing the holes :'D 2 Questions: 1) Which mobil grease do you use for the BBs? 2) How do you correctly apply the preload? (would love an "average joe"'s guide to installing any type commonly available BB)
On an unmodified Look/Zed install, how tight should the lockring that holds the crank in place be? It seems to impact bearing pre-load. No easy way to set torque exactly but: snug firm or tight? Documentation I can find is silent on this.
As always, I loved this video and your detailed demonstrations. I do have a question, however. You mention Mobil SHC. Which Mobil SHC do you use? I just looked it up and there are several varieties, each with a different number. For instance, Mobil SHC 100. Thank you.
Another proper Engineering video, thanks. Like thousands of other cyclists, I have an expensive (Trek Domane) carbon frame that is basically scrap because of terrible design - I'd like to Hambini it but you only seems to do oversize bearings for BB90 - no good to me as my BB holes are too big and no longer round. Could you do a full aluminium alloy BB for me?
I've got my 695 BB making a bit of a clicking sound, on the drive side. Now I'm worried I need to replace that bearing right away. BTW my tri-lobe inserts are stuck in the crank. Should I be trying to get them out to clean and put some fresh grease behind, or just leave them be?
Do you have any interest in designing a hub? I think there are a lot of attempts at making these ultra-light race hubsets where the engineers make significant compromises in durability to achieve low weight. I’m curious to know why there aren’t any magnesium hub sets available. Like something machined from an AZ 80 alloy forging. I have dreams of one day learning machining and designing my own hubs but it’s pretty intimidating. I’ve heard hubs are one of the most complex things to engineer on a bike.
@RollinRat that makes sense. Thanks for the advice. I just feel like it’s a material that is very under-utilized in the cycling world. I think you could make a very strong hub from it as long as a good alloy like AZ 80 was used and the flanges were spaced wide and they are deep. I know magnesium also has excellent machining properties. Plus, it can be anodized to help avoid corrosion. I mean, why stop at the hub shell? Even the internals and through-axle (I’m assuming disc here) could be made from it. I would make mine without the center lock spline and machine a mount integrated with the hub shell to mount a disc directly to it.
@RollinRat ok, if I can only choose two, I choose light and strong. Yes, true; saving weight at the rim is always best. That’s why I always use tubulars, which is a very difficult thing to do these days. I think there are maybe only three different wheel sets you can get that are disc/tubular. With the disc brakes, electronic groups, and all the aero bits, it’s really hard to keep modern bikes lightweight, so I’m thinking of un-exploited materials and methods to reduce weight. When I saw that Ineos had to resort to 17g bottle cages and ultra light/expensive F1 frame paint at the Tour this year, you know they are desperate to keep weight down.
I looked up "reaming", being a naive fellow, and it meant pretty much what I expected. I can see how it might be rude, but is the word used outside engineering - ie in the X-rated genre?
Just a FYI the models with the aero integration of the brakes i would keep away from, the bottom bracket always gets dirty and compromises the braking. The front brake doesn't have a off centre leverage action like a caliper so need more force to apply the same braking. These designs were to give aero benefits which in my view would be peanuts anyway. I particularly avoided them when buying mine and got the standard integration.
If you are considering buying a LOOK 695, I would recommend following the above guidance.
@@Hambini Waynos is a trustworthy fellow. You can tell by how he doesn't brutally murder his neighbor's dog.
The last edition of 795 light rs
Simply the best?
Any bike with aero integrated brakes are the slowest on wet technical descents. Only makes sense for TT bikes.
@@NeoPayneHK The 795 is a shitty ride though. At least the frame in L size I have owned. Vertically very stiff, yet wet noodles laterally due to the NACA tubing not being torsionally stiff enough. The aluminium bb insert would often dis-bond too. The stem on that bike was bendy - I can twist the handlebar an inch up/down each side. The Blade RS is far superior ride and I believe it is still available with rim brakes as a frame set for a special order.
I always knew those larger holes were an indication of superior engineering
More exquisite BB engineering, I think I'll add a Look695 (with a Hambini BB) to the Time Scylon wish list...
Keep in mind his bb weighs 450g + over 600 grams for the crank set and you would be installing that in an already porky frame. All that to replace the weight of two bb65 bearings and 500g for the zed crankset including the chainrings.
Hambini is the bottom bracket hero we all need.
695 is a brilliant bike, I bought one 18months ago based on your recommendation
It have been my go to "do it all bike" since.........my Colnago's has been left in garage
A masterclass piece again! Congrats, amazing work!
It’s highly educational to see you work !
FSA Goosamer is not using a pinn spanner for removal of the crankarm. It is sellf extracting with the use of the center bolt (Allen). The bottom bracket itself is a of regular threaded design.
That was a great watch. Not just a pretty face some tricky technical detail and fixing going on. Cheers Hambini
1:13 Hmm I will definitely have to . . . LOOK into that!
My 695 is faultless it has di2 and the standard oval zed crank,what a great all rounder it is!
Dave! Is that you? How is Antonia de Sancha getting on?
Heard that one a few times lol
@@davemellor4697 DAAAAVVVVEEEE
@@davemellor4697 Antonia was fit. You lucky guy😈
Excellent vid, thanks! 👍
Those bearing explanations are the reason your channel is one of the best - next to Paul Brodie of course.
Super clean frame inside. Impressive.
frame is immaculate
you and your puns.
"The bearing division of Renault Car. It was spun off."
At least someone appreciated it
As always, the heart starting intro.
good work, very clear, concise & informative. So much so that I don't even miss the dearth of profanity, I must be getting old.
Very good informative video Hambini, thanks and well done. You've gotten really good with your videos.
Always impressed with your....... gardening tools
Really great work. Love the channel.
New BB reminds me of an old stronglight BB.
Old pin spanner meets New oversized (even by oversized standards) BB.
Hambini to the BB rescue!
Love a bit of SHC-100. God it reminds me of lubricating all the gears on ATR 72 aircrafts.
Excellent engineering genius as always.
holy smoke
this is on another level...
Another great piece of work! 👏
Its such a shame the original Look cranks aren't more serviceable seeing as so much thought went into their design.
They are perfectly serviceable. Just the bearings are a pain to get. And it may require a puller to get the interference bearing of its seat. But if you want to install bearings nobody is going to stop you.
@@luukrutten1295 Read my post again only take note of the word "more"...
LOOK ! Hambini's Tooling around again 😃
It's always sad to see a Zed crank being replaced by inferior crank designs.
True, but at least the 105 crank won't have issues like the crank spider shell debonding on the ultegra or dura ace ones lol
The weight weenie in me crying at the added weight of a 105 over a cf crank. When I replaced my 695 with the 795 I asked if I could have a zed crank but wasn't possible
I have bought a bike from a shop here in texas and they have changed the bb to a cheapy.
I love my Hambini BB makes all the hairdressers jealous
Well done job as usual. Very precise engineering.
What does this weigh compared to the original setup?
Vice is the most underrated tool in my opinion. It's should be wise to use it instead of hammering things.
I worked in a Schwinn shop 40 years ago. Most of the cranksets were steel, one-piece cranks, called Ashtabula cranks.
Yeah, them Boat anchor cranks were bulletproof.
Master class in lubing
The pencil is working! Great vid! More like it please. What is the world's second and third best frame and crank sets?
Chris, From somewhere in the Canadian Prairies.
Thank you
19:40 So if i have a square taper tool, a ISIS tool and Hollowtech II tool what you are saying is, I need another tool to insert
emove you BB65 bottom bracket? This is not good.
26:51 cheeky camera angle.... showing off the hairdresser's work, are we?
Absolutely love this channel. Thanks Hambini!
Also, wanted to ask your personal opinion/recommendation on best groupset for this 695 frame......red, record or ace? Maybe a combo of each? Apprecaite the help! Thanks!
I have the Mondrian SR and it doesn't have integrated brakes
The master class in Bottom Brackets….is a welcome education….if people are passionate about their cycling ..and the load, and power flow through the bottom bearings…it makes sense that that are bombproof and easy to fix or replace …..obviously with expensive bikes, super light bikes … and human error …. You end up with poor engineering…. I’ve had a creaky crank …and it’s horrible to live with ….and I’ve had SRAM noises, from break discs ….and it’s annoying…especially if they look great but in use are badly engineered….[ rubbish ] bless the hairy dresser with his Facom stuff …..
That looks fantastic
Crikey that's a busy set of decals
Zed3 crankset from Look was a good evolution of the zed2
When are you going to put together your time frame.
Awesome.
Hambini time!!!
You deserved that smack in the face with the non drive-side crank arm, for looking so smug at the effortless spin test. Excellent video, love the attention to detail - screw thread retaining collar looked like a Cartier bracelet.
Pitch circle would generally indicate a measurement of the chainring at the gear teeth, not the mounting bolts.
Bearing in mind that that galvanic corrosion will most likely go undetected, which grease would you recommend to prevent it. Copper grease, for it's anti seize properties, or just a general purpose grease?
At our bikeshop we use bearing grease or Shimano anti seize if it comes lose often.
Out on my group ride this morning my praxis works chain rings bent somehow and pulled out two crankbolts. Proper weird, must just be fatigue maybe ?
Must be your insane leg power!
@@Rusty-Metal haha behave !!!
Crankbolts do have a strange tendency to loosen up over time. I was surprised when I took out the chains for a clean. The bolts from the big and small chainring were loose. I never noticed anything unusual when I rode my bike recently. I even climbed steep gradients and fast descents with that.
@@iMadrid11 my 1x gravel bikes bolts always come loose! And it creaks like nobodies business. The road bike didn't creak at all running on 3 bolts instead of 5 !
@@iMadrid11 Noticed this myself on two of my bikes. I’m obsessive about thread-locking all my chainring bolts now
Great engineering 👍
How does Motorex FETT 2000 compare to Mobil SHC?
Nice! How did you decide on the the 40 Nm torque? Thx!
Torque stretch calculator
Using the medium strength loctite for press fit bearings where the removal is 90* to the surface I see but with this solution requiring a spin to be removed I’m curious on your thoughts about how difficult it will be to essentially shear the loctite to remove. (Honestly wondering. No hidden joke here. I’m not an expert. Is this not really meant to be removed? If so why not go for a more permanent solution? I know you mentioned cup wear but is that even a thing on your bb? Wouldn’t that require some serious skill to damage?)
if you heat it, even with a hairdryer it will go soft and you can spin it out.
@@Hambini Ok awesome. Appreciate the reply. Thanks
I know you are a fan of the 695 model and mentioned the 3 versions of this model. Of the 3 versions, which model would you most recommend? Thanks!
The two screws are to hold down di2 wires with little clips.
Thank you for that info,I've just bought a 695 light frame and im due to build it up when it arrives,ive been trying to find as much info about it as possible and one of the questions was iff the frame was di2 compatible,not only that but now I know what the screws are for.
Thank you
Richard 👍
What is your opinion of the Look 795 Blade RS disk frame set?
Good afternoon, do you have any homemade drawings? can you please share))).Thank you
Jood job Hambini!
Wouldn’t it be a good idea to secure the bearings with a very small amount of Loctite 638 or 648 when the seats are still O.K. in order to prevent them from spinning?
Interference will hold it
that crank length feature on the ZED2 is genius why isnt everyone doing this wtf
If they're alloy cranks, cheaper to make different lengths.....
Certainly brilliant idea.
Yea or at least have the option to buy a more expensive crank with that system implemented, I'd love it and would certainly buy one for my trainer bike, I'd imagine bike fitters would also be crazy about it.
that one piece crankset looks familiar. have you shown it before? I'm thinking on the Time for some reason 🤔
Rim Brakes? Yaaaaaaaaay!
Another masterclass from Hambini! You mentioned that the 695 era bikes were the best. Are the 795 bikes not as good as the older 695s?
The blade rs is not good at all
@@Hambini Oh I see. Thanks for the info! Looks like they dropped the ball on the newer ones.
@@Hambini Can you tell why? Their new frames are much cheaper then their old ones. Have they moved production?
@@Hambini curious why you think that as I changed out a 695 for a 795 and pretty happy with it.
105? After that beautiful work of art of a BB on a Look? Come on...at least an Ultegra for crying out loud😂
Great video as always✌️
he didn't want the crank to de bond.
@@Hambini LOOOOL
Exactly my thought,but do you know what,105 is bomb proof stuff,and these days I don't think there is much difference apart from weight.
Работа выглядит очень хорошо! Может только добавить ещё пыльник от грязи на переходник?
What kind of grease do you use, please specify?
Mobil grease... you said the best for such an application?
When will your "Hambini Racing BB65 Bottom Bracket Shimano Crankset (Black)" be back in stock to purchase? And "NTN 6810 LLB 50x65x7 Ultra Low Friction Seal LOOK BB65" is also out of stock.....I'm buying a new 695 and wanted to get these.... Also, can we still send you bikes for install? If som, how/instructions? thanks!
HELLO HAMBINI!👍💪
Great video! laughed so hard when you mentioned greasing the holes :'D
2 Questions:
1) Which mobil grease do you use for the BBs?
2) How do you correctly apply the preload? (would love an "average joe"'s guide to installing any type commonly available BB)
Being he’s an aviation engineer, no doubt SHC100.
We need to know, how much weight was added with the shell and an inferior crank!?
This is still on back order?
On an unmodified Look/Zed install, how tight should the lockring that holds the crank in place be? It seems to impact bearing pre-load. No easy way to set torque exactly but: snug firm or tight? Documentation I can find is silent on this.
Thought that was the eurobike from GCN for a second when I saw the colors lol
How does the Look 675 compare to the the 695 range in terms of quality?
It doesn't compare . Two completely different frames in terms of quality . 695 was a work of art .
Which type of Mobil SHC grease are you using?
What Mobilith SHC grease do you use?
For looks a 10+! (I mean for the bottom bracket)
Was the 105 the new version. And what do you think of the new 105?
It's the outgoing R7000 model, judging from the look of the crank. The new R7100 crank is more symmetrical
I assume that the chain line is built in to the design of the bottom bracket?
Hey Look! It's Look!
Always use aluminum paste where steel meets aluminum to avoid galvanic corrosion. You should use that paste instead off grease between bearing and BB.
Do you mean antiseize?
@@userkmunhwaock it has that effect too but the main use is to prevent galvanic corrotion.
ua-cam.com/video/AFTzkwAdreM/v-deo.html
I'd like to know how that thread is generated.
( on the zed unit)
As always, I loved this video and your detailed demonstrations.
I do have a question, however. You mention Mobil SHC. Which Mobil SHC do you use? I just looked it up and there are several varieties, each with a different number. For instance, Mobil SHC 100.
Thank you.
100
SNR : Société Nouvelle de Roulements 👍
Another proper Engineering video, thanks. Like thousands of other cyclists, I have an expensive (Trek Domane) carbon frame that is basically scrap because of terrible design - I'd like to Hambini it but you only seems to do oversize bearings for BB90 - no good to me as my BB holes are too big and no longer round. Could you do a full aluminium alloy BB for me?
Potentially worth getting the BB resleeved at a Trek Dealer if oversized bearings aren't cutting it
You'd think that huge massive Look ZED bearing would last forever. How the heck did it become seized?
Water and dirt obviously.
As luuk said, mainly contamination. British roads are amongst the worst
so what kind of press fit bb does he have now?
The best one on the world
I've got my 695 BB making a bit of a clicking sound, on the drive side. Now I'm worried I need to replace that bearing right away. BTW my tri-lobe inserts are stuck in the crank. Should I be trying to get them out to clean and put some fresh grease behind, or just leave them be?
I would get the lobe out in case you ever want to change the spacing. A clicking bearing is often the sign that the cage is broken
@@Hambini thank you sir👍
Do you have any interest in designing a hub? I think there are a lot of attempts at making these ultra-light race hubsets where the engineers make significant compromises in durability to achieve low weight. I’m curious to know why there aren’t any magnesium hub sets available. Like something machined from an AZ 80 alloy forging. I have dreams of one day learning machining and designing my own hubs but it’s pretty intimidating. I’ve heard hubs are one of the most complex things to engineer on a bike.
@RollinRat that makes sense. Thanks for the advice. I just feel like it’s a material that is very under-utilized in the cycling world. I think you could make a very strong hub from it as long as a good alloy like AZ 80 was used and the flanges were spaced wide and they are deep. I know magnesium also has excellent machining properties. Plus, it can be anodized to help avoid corrosion. I mean, why stop at the hub shell? Even the internals and through-axle (I’m assuming disc here) could be made from it. I would make mine without the center lock spline and machine a mount integrated with the hub shell to mount a disc directly to it.
@RollinRat ok, if I can only choose two, I choose light and strong. Yes, true; saving weight at the rim is always best. That’s why I always use tubulars, which is a very difficult thing to do these days. I think there are maybe only three different wheel sets you can get that are disc/tubular. With the disc brakes, electronic groups, and all the aero bits, it’s really hard to keep modern bikes lightweight, so I’m thinking of un-exploited materials and methods to reduce weight. When I saw that Ineos had to resort to 17g bottle cages and ultra light/expensive F1 frame paint at the Tour this year, you know they are desperate to keep weight down.
which weight grease on the mobil SHC?
when do you turn 6?
I looked up "reaming", being a naive fellow, and it meant pretty much what I expected. I can see how it might be rude, but is the word used outside engineering - ie in the X-rated genre?
I'm an engineer, I don't have friends outside of the profession other than Jimmy's mum from nursery
Look: Lets make a really high end version of the cheap ass ashtabula department store bike crank!
Product idea: Hambini ultralight race-spec sacrificial anode
That is absolutely one rigid AF bb.
The owner must have spent at least 1,000 quid for this level of quality solution...
SEGUE: do you have any advice on learning CFD modelling