Another tip - stop lowballing sellers. If they already have the lowest price, just buy it. As a seller, I've had plenty of people lowball me. I always look to see what else is available before accepting offers and many times I've been priced too low. What do I do? I decline the offer and raise the price.
Lol, I had a card listed at 60 bucks and man said I’ll pay 40, I replied with 50 is my bottom dollar and few hours later I got a how bout 45. I replied back to him saying it’s 55 dollars now and low and behold he hits back I’ll do 50.
Great tips, recently I've gotten back into flipping on comc. I don't recall you mentioned in the vid, if you sort the listings by highest percentage off, you could find a lot of deals.
While that is true, more often than not I find the highest % off are cards that were already overpriced. Cards that should be $100 were originally priced at say $250 and even with a 25% discount, you're not saving
How do you value "uncirculated - stock image" vs a picture of a raw card? Can we assume the uncirculated card sent directly to COMC is a better chance for good card conditions/better buy?
Great question. I would consider all cards that aren’t otherwise noted to be psa 8 and MAYBE a 9. They do a pretty job at noting if it’s NM, Mint+, etc. So I would personally just assume it’s a raw, which typically is a 8 or9
@@redcapesports Thanks! One other thing - on COMC if they have [Mint or Better] or something like that, Is it actually better than a Raw (Psa8/9) Is this COMC validating it is a higher quality or just the seller's opinion of their own card?
@@ryanvink5895 also, there is no mint or better. Raw is considered NM or better. Directly below Raw is EX-NM. Then VG-EX etc. I think everyone is mixed up here, but if you check the FAQ on COMC it will explain it.
Hey guys anyone can help set up my pricing on Comc? I'm not getting whT I'm asking for always get $0.10-.$0.20 instead of a dollar order $4 up like I have it set up. The help will be appreciated
Hey man I know I’m late but when do I pay for submission fees? I am sending a box now but it hasn’t asked me to pay yet so do I just buy the amount of store credit for the fees? Thanks
@@redcapesports thanks for the help. Sorry to ask so much, but do you happen to know if they have a backlog on submissions? If so I might cancel my order
Are you 8’ tall or are you standing in a room with a 6’ ceiling? Hahaha, awesome video man. I’m about to send off to comc as well, appreciate the tips!
Excellent video. I'm an old time collector looking to selling stuff on comc. If you ship to the Canadian site do you still get funds when you cash out in American money?
@@redcapesports Thank you. I mainly collect coins, stamps, comics and sports cards. A lot of times when trying to sell other collectables in Canada you generally get Canadian funds, just wanted to make sure there wasn't any issues before I sent them. 🙂👍
Great tips. I'm new to comc thanks to you!! Small player at this point. My problem is that I have fallen in love with a couple of cards and want to let them go so I put a really high price on them.
We’ve all been there. Just remember a profit is a profit, and it is better to sell a day early than a day late. Look at what happened with Prizm soccer cards lol
Could you make a video to help others understand the notations? How many people think EX-NM is better than Raw? Its not. Raw is the only place you could buy and get a PSA 10 from sending it in. All the other notations of non-graded cards are telling you what is physically wrong. It even says on the site that cards that have no big issues are listed as raw.. They don't grade centering because you can see the scan. Anyway, it may help some rookies. EX is a PSA 6.
@@redcapesports I know. I think a lot of people don't understand the notations. Which is great if you're selling EX-NM cards. Not good if you have better cards. Also let's me know they aren't looking because you can find very clean, PSA 10 worthy base cards as raw. But EX-NM always has visible wear
What do you usually do when a sports season comes to a end? I only do baseball but since the season is about to be over do you think I will still be able to make profit in offseason or would it be tuff cuz it’s mainly football season?
I'm not a comc guru or anything but buying baseball might be a good strategy so when it comes back and hopefully you have some stars for cheap and sell high. Could be completely wrong though.
In my experience sometimes if you find a good deal, just buy and don’t send an offer. Sometimes the buyer hasn’t been great at keeping up with prices and when they see the offer they will decline and list it higher. How much of that $1500 is profit? Keep up the good work with the vids boys!
This is exactly what I do. Or someone else buys it before I see an off. If it is a great deal, take it. Same thing as the dont over think the $95 offer. Lose $20 in profit trying to save $5. Nothing lets you know what is going up like offers, haha.
@@Joe-rg9yz You obviously don't sell much there. If you withdrawal too much you will get sent tax forms from PayPal. Best way to avoid this is to spend your profit on cards and have the cards shipped to you and sell those or reinvest your profit into more COMC cards to sell on site. Once you start withdrawing and reach their threshold you get tax forms.
@@puntowngaming1843 maybe I wasn't clear about the comment. I meant "done on the site" as you don't pay any until you cash out, and most people will buy the more expensive cards and have them sent to avoid it.
Another tip - stop lowballing sellers. If they already have the lowest price, just buy it.
As a seller, I've had plenty of people lowball me. I always look to see what else is available before accepting offers and many times I've been priced too low. What do I do? I decline the offer and raise the price.
For sure. I do the same thing as well. It’s so difficult to stay on top of every card as prices are constantly changing
Lol, I had a card listed at 60 bucks and man said I’ll pay 40, I replied with 50 is my bottom dollar and few hours later I got a how bout 45. I replied back to him saying it’s 55 dollars now and low and behold he hits back I’ll do 50.
Great tips, recently I've gotten back into flipping on comc. I don't recall you mentioned in the vid, if you sort the listings by highest percentage off, you could find a lot of deals.
While that is true, more often than not I find the highest % off are cards that were already overpriced. Cards that should be $100 were originally priced at say $250 and even with a 25% discount, you're not saving
How do you value "uncirculated - stock image" vs a picture of a raw card? Can we assume the uncirculated card sent directly to COMC is a better chance for good card conditions/better buy?
Great question. I would consider all cards that aren’t otherwise noted to be psa 8 and MAYBE a 9. They do a pretty job at noting if it’s NM, Mint+, etc. So I would personally just assume it’s a raw, which typically is a 8 or9
@@redcapesports Thanks! One other thing - on COMC if they have [Mint or Better] or something like that, Is it actually better than a Raw (Psa8/9) Is this COMC validating it is a higher quality or just the seller's opinion of their own card?
@@ryanvink5895 no. Raw is better than a notation. Not sure why people are buying the more beat up cards for a premium.
@@ryanvink5895 also, there is no mint or better. Raw is considered NM or better. Directly below Raw is EX-NM. Then VG-EX etc. I think everyone is mixed up here, but if you check the FAQ on COMC it will explain it.
Hey guys anyone can help set up my pricing on Comc? I'm not getting whT I'm asking for always get $0.10-.$0.20 instead of a dollar order $4 up like I have it set up.
The help will be appreciated
Hey man I know I’m late but when do I pay for submission fees? I am sending a box now but it hasn’t asked me to pay yet so do I just buy the amount of store credit for the fees? Thanks
Once they process the cards you pay then!
@@redcapesports thanks for the help. Sorry to ask so much, but do you happen to know if they have a backlog on submissions? If so I might cancel my order
Just a backlog on shipping cards to customers, not for processing them
Are you 8’ tall or are you standing in a room with a 6’ ceiling? Hahaha, awesome video man. I’m about to send off to comc as well, appreciate the tips!
Excellent video. I'm an old time collector looking to selling stuff on comc. If you ship to the Canadian site do you still get funds when you cash out in American money?
Yes, absolutely! They just process the cards in Canada but add them to the site
@@redcapesports Thank you. I mainly collect coins, stamps, comics and sports cards. A lot of times when trying to sell other collectables in Canada you generally get Canadian funds, just wanted to make sure there wasn't any issues before I sent them. 🙂👍
Great tips. I'm new to comc thanks to you!! Small player at this point. My problem is that I have fallen in love with a couple of cards and want to let them go so I put a really high price on them.
We’ve all been there. Just remember a profit is a profit, and it is better to sell a day early than a day late. Look at what happened with Prizm soccer cards lol
@@redcapesports Thanks. If there is no grade listed what does that mean?
That means it is viewed as NM or equivalent to about PSA 8
@@redcapesports Thanks.
@@davearchbell9921 Much Love! Thanks for watching
Could you make a video to help others understand the notations? How many people think EX-NM is better than Raw? Its not. Raw is the only place you could buy and get a PSA 10 from sending it in. All the other notations of non-graded cards are telling you what is physically wrong. It even says on the site that cards that have no big issues are listed as raw.. They don't grade centering because you can see the scan. Anyway, it may help some rookies. EX is a PSA 6.
I see EX-NM listed for higher than raw all the time. I agree i would much rather have a raw than EX-NM
@@redcapesports I know. I think a lot of people don't understand the notations. Which is great if you're selling EX-NM cards. Not good if you have better cards. Also let's me know they aren't looking because you can find very clean, PSA 10 worthy base cards as raw. But EX-NM always has visible wear
@@Joe-rg9yz You can also scoop up some mint or better cards for great deals too
What do you usually do when a sports season comes to a end? I only do baseball but since the season is about to be over do you think I will still be able to make profit in offseason or would it be tuff cuz it’s mainly football season?
I'm not a comc guru or anything but buying baseball might be a good strategy so when it comes back and hopefully you have some stars for cheap and sell high. Could be completely wrong though.
In my experience sometimes if you find a good deal, just buy and don’t send an offer. Sometimes the buyer hasn’t been great at keeping up with prices and when they see the offer they will decline and list it higher. How much of that $1500 is profit? Keep up the good work with the vids boys!
This is exactly what I do. Or someone else buys it before I see an off. If it is a great deal, take it. Same thing as the dont over think the $95 offer. Lose $20 in profit trying to save $5. Nothing lets you know what is going up like offers, haha.
Good video
Thanks Jax!
Great video I appreciate the help
COMC is a joke..1200 negative feedbacks in one month. They don’t combine shipping & seem to ship cards without top loaders..They suck dude
Great vid. Also you look like a giant. Or the ceiling is low. Or both.
so rule 2 contradicts rule #1 🤣
Hope youre prepared for that tax form.
You don't need to put anything on a tax form done on the site.
@@Joe-rg9yz You obviously don't sell much there. If you withdrawal too much you will get sent tax forms from PayPal. Best way to avoid this is to spend your profit on cards and have the cards shipped to you and sell those or reinvest your profit into more COMC cards to sell on site. Once you start withdrawing and reach their threshold you get tax forms.
@@puntowngaming1843 maybe I wasn't clear about the comment. I meant "done on the site" as you don't pay any until you cash out, and most people will buy the more expensive cards and have them sent to avoid it.