Good point you made on depth of the raker, too low a raker would cause the tooth to tilt or flex back and not cut properly, perhaps tear the wood instead.
Ive been using the oregon guage for a long time, but it only has one setting, .025. It works well for my purpose, but have been thinking about for a while now to buy one of Gordy's depth guages. But here is the difference between the two, the oregon lays flat on the teeth and the rest lays at an angle. Ironhorse thinks that flat runs smoother in the cut. I dont know because I havent compared the two. Thats a topic to make a vid about. Thoughts?
Ive only ever ran the angle ones i guess which when i get down on the raker i always round it back out to give it factory look in away to make it smooth
It's not just about the angle of the top of the raker... it's the overall height. As a tooth wears 025 may not be enough due to how the tooth rocks in the cut. Husky, WCS, the old Carlton gauges all file "progressively" as in they file to angle of attack instead of depth. You'll get a better cut over the whole life of the file with the angled type raker gauges.
@@mattfleming86 thank you for the feedback man! I know its about the overall height. Was mainly curious about what runs smoother in the cut, flat or angled. Gonna order a raker gauge from wcs tomorrow and try it out on the rakers and see what I like better. Plus drop them down to around .030 instead of .025. Again thank you Matt!
@@ramoutdoors6415 Good luck dude! I really love the husky gauges (very similar to WCS) If you can find Carlton's complete book of saw chain they provide some interesting facts about depth gauges. I have the Pdf and had to dig around for it.. id give you the link if I could find it.. but it's out there somewhere. Good stuff.
Just the other day I used the WCS gauge on the 2nd to the lowest (.040) on the 24" full comp 84t running on my ported 592xp and put it into some bar-length poplar.. that impressed the hell outta me cause that saw was pulling 2-4" long chips that were rolling up between the teeth. I'd have tried the .050 if I had the gauge and file that day. Those lower settings definitely have their place, but im not sure it'll work too well in Locust or Hickory
I have the Oregon type, I don't care for it. Might buy a West Coast style kind, I'd seen Bucking Billy using his but wasn't sure where to buy one. Thanks for sharing
I like the wcs one for hardness and on a skip chain its pretty close to huskys but if u run full chisel and cut hardwood the husky set the raker better
We set up saw , digital probe , computer cut tooth and rakers done all at once, power chain advancement. Raker depth, tooth angle programmed in. 1 minute to complete. The computerized systems are dead accurate. Over the long run pays for itself. Chains always perfect.
i have to tell the truth on a 20 inch bar with a 70 + cc saw you just grind the drag about 1/16 th and never touch it again no measuring and it works fine i see why you measure on a longer bar west coast.
Well brother you nailed it prefect information, in regular terms thwt all can understand well done
Thank i appreciate that
Great job on the vid man, very well explained...thumbs up!
Thanks so much appreciate it
Good point you made on depth of the raker, too low a raker would cause the tooth to tilt or flex back and not cut properly, perhaps tear the wood instead.
Good lookn chain good explanation. I gonna get me a raker gauge this will definitely help somebody. Appreciate u postn it.
Thanks buddy
Husky makes stand-alone gauges too that aren't attached to the rolly-do. If anyone wants part numbers let me know. Great gauges.
I'd be interested. don't recall seeing those before
Like the ol 660 hope u havin a good week
I do too i am gettin ready to head to ohio
@@MitchellsBackyardLogging safe travels sir. Have a fun trip an a great time while there
Ive been using the oregon guage for a long time, but it only has one setting, .025. It works well for my purpose, but have been thinking about for a while now to buy one of Gordy's depth guages. But here is the difference between the two, the oregon lays flat on the teeth and the rest lays at an angle. Ironhorse thinks that flat runs smoother in the cut. I dont know because I havent compared the two. Thats a topic to make a vid about. Thoughts?
Ive only ever ran the angle ones i guess which when i get down on the raker i always round it back out to give it factory look in away to make it smooth
@@MitchellsBackyardLogging yep. I know some leave them at an angle and I guess some dont🤔😉would be a good topic to discuss. Thanks fer the reply man😀
It's not just about the angle of the top of the raker... it's the overall height. As a tooth wears 025 may not be enough due to how the tooth rocks in the cut.
Husky, WCS, the old Carlton gauges all file "progressively" as in they file to angle of attack instead of depth. You'll get a better cut over the whole life of the file with the angled type raker gauges.
@@mattfleming86 thank you for the feedback man! I know its about the overall height. Was mainly curious about what runs smoother in the cut, flat or angled. Gonna order a raker gauge from wcs tomorrow and try it out on the rakers and see what I like better. Plus drop them down to around .030 instead of .025. Again thank you Matt!
@@ramoutdoors6415 Good luck dude!
I really love the husky gauges (very similar to WCS)
If you can find Carlton's complete book of saw chain they provide some interesting facts about depth gauges. I have the Pdf and had to dig around for it.. id give you the link if I could find it.. but it's out there somewhere. Good stuff.
Just the other day I used the WCS gauge on the 2nd to the lowest (.040) on the 24" full comp 84t running on my ported 592xp and put it into some bar-length poplar.. that impressed the hell outta me cause that saw was pulling 2-4" long chips that were rolling up between the teeth. I'd have tried the .050 if I had the gauge and file that day. Those lower settings definitely have their place, but im not sure it'll work too well in Locust or Hickory
I agree
I take a swipe off each drag on a fresh chain then hit em again after about 2 or 3 sharpenings.
Thats how i use to run them when i ran husky saws with these stihl saw seems i can lower them a bit more and not bind up as bad
I have the Oregon type, I don't care for it. Might buy a West Coast style kind, I'd seen Bucking Billy using his but wasn't sure where to buy one. Thanks for sharing
I like the wcs one for hardness and on a skip chain its pretty close to huskys but if u run full chisel and cut hardwood the husky set the raker better
@@MitchellsBackyardLogging thanks for the tip.
Good job
Thanks
What's the metal thickness of the Husqvarna gauge?
Edit: auto corrected to matter hahaha
Nothing wrong there a little softer and the wcs gauge gas a couple more settings i like husky gauge just fine
We set up saw , digital probe , computer cut tooth and rakers done all at once, power chain advancement. Raker depth, tooth angle programmed in. 1 minute to complete. The computerized systems are dead accurate. Over the long run pays for itself. Chains always perfect.
i have to tell the truth on a 20 inch bar with a 70 + cc saw you just grind the drag about 1/16 th and never touch it again no measuring and it works fine i see why you measure on a longer bar west coast.
مچکرم از راهنمایه شمد
U chain looks pretty ragged mate !
Thats why im doing a raker vid and not a cutting vid
That chain looks awful, Like your using way to small of a file to sharpen it
Thats a factory grind sir i have not yet taken a file to it and i typically grind my chain
It looks like square ground.
@@ronaldbrown5745Looka like Hexa chain to me!