You are so awesome you made a very helpful video my AC condenser just bust a leak so I am going to take and replace the radiator & the AC condenser thank you
If it's just the condenser leaking, why replace the radiator? Yes, the radiator needs to be removed to get the condenser out, but is there something else that is calling for the radiator to be replaced? Also, if you are replacing the radiator, be sure to do the thermostat as well. it's always a good practice to replace the thermostat anytime you replace a major component of the cooling system.
It most certainly will. The side tanks are plastic and over time become brittle and can crack, which means you’re leaking coolant and losing pressure in the system. This leads to an overheating engine.
Hey I figured I'd ask you you have the same truck as me my avalanche runs good when it's cold to near operation temp but when it hits operation temp the truck idles weird like it wants to die and then it goes back to normal and it repeats that. Ive replaced the thermostat and the thermostat housing and still nothing also at times when it's at operation temp the truck just shuts off even when I'm driving I really need you're help please give me some ideas on what it is
Start with checking both the Engine Coolant Temperature sensor and the Crank Position Sensor. Do a ohm and voltage test on them. If either or both is bad don’t be too concerned. They’re both inexpensive and easy to change out. Be sure to stick with AC Delco/GM genuine for replacement sensors. If neither of those change it, do a compression test.
The truck had a K&N intake on it when I bought it and I got a stock box from a junkyard truck to replace the open filter design of the K&N. K&N filters allow way too much debris through for my liking, and both the open intake and stock box pull air from the same place on the fender, so there's no reason for the open filter design. The tube provides smoother air flow though, which is why I kept it.
If you mean Dex VI ATF fluid for the transmission, then yes, I did. Not much (less than 1/2 a quart), but I did have to top it off after driving it for about 50 miles and then checking the fluid level.
Hey Matt, tremendous video and content. I've got the 05 Silverado 5.3 z71 which looks pretty much the same. Completing the 100K coolant flush I had to pull the lower hose to drain the radiator. I noticed you mentioned flushing the engine block if you wanted to change coolant types. I don't want to change but was interested in getting a 100% flush and all new coolant. The Chilton manual shows 2 cylinder block drain plugs but I don't think the 05 has it (kind of like the radiator drain plug). Any suggestions on how to get a complete flush before adding the new coolant. During my radiator drain I got about 8 quarts. Manual shows 16.7 quart capacity. Thanks for any help. Did your work as a GM mechanic?
You’re right. The electric fans started in 2005. You have a clutch fan and will most likely need to remove it to pull the radiator. A little more work, but nothing major. You do have the option of upgrading to the electric fans though. Here is a great write up that tells you everything you need to know. www.mrk-motorsports.com/99-04-gmt800-oem-e-fan-upgrade/
Thanks for the help bro, those stupid radiator clips are the only thing that held me back. I kept wondering why the wrench kept slipping.😂😢😅
Great time to replace the belts too.. make sure to replace hoses and thermostat when you change out the radiator too.😊
Thank you for the great video... just did mine today in about 1 hour. Great video.
Glad it helped!
Thank you so much for the video, I am starting mine this morning.👍🏼
You are so awesome you made a very helpful video my AC condenser just bust a leak so I am going to take and replace the radiator & the AC condenser thank you
If it's just the condenser leaking, why replace the radiator? Yes, the radiator needs to be removed to get the condenser out, but is there something else that is calling for the radiator to be replaced? Also, if you are replacing the radiator, be sure to do the thermostat as well. it's always a good practice to replace the thermostat anytime you replace a major component of the cooling system.
Why not an all aluminum double row?
Thank you for the information. Big help
Great job!!
Why did you take out the top plastic cover ? You said earlier in the video that it wasn't needed. I noticed during the install that it was off . Why ?
Little extra space just in case.
Would a small crack in the radiator cause the truck to overheat? I’ve replaced the thermostat and the water pump
It most certainly will. The side tanks are plastic and over time become brittle and can crack, which means you’re leaking coolant and losing pressure in the system. This leads to an overheating engine.
Hey I figured I'd ask you you have the same truck as me my avalanche runs good when it's cold to near operation temp but when it hits operation temp the truck idles weird like it wants to die and then it goes back to normal and it repeats that. Ive replaced the thermostat and the thermostat housing and still nothing also at times when it's at operation temp the truck just shuts off even when I'm driving I really need you're help please give me some ideas on what it is
Start with checking both the Engine Coolant Temperature sensor and the Crank Position Sensor. Do a ohm and voltage test on them. If either or both is bad don’t be too concerned. They’re both inexpensive and easy to change out. Be sure to stick with AC Delco/GM genuine for replacement sensors.
If neither of those change it, do a compression test.
Where did you buy the intake tube?
The truck had a K&N intake on it when I bought it and I got a stock box from a junkyard truck to replace the open filter design of the K&N. K&N filters allow way too much debris through for my liking, and both the open intake and stock box pull air from the same place on the fender, so there's no reason for the open filter design. The tube provides smoother air flow though, which is why I kept it.
Did you have to add oil after?
If you mean Dex VI ATF fluid for the transmission, then yes, I did. Not much (less than 1/2 a quart), but I did have to top it off after driving it for about 50 miles and then checking the fluid level.
Hey Matt, tremendous video and content. I've got the 05 Silverado 5.3 z71 which looks pretty much the same. Completing the 100K coolant flush I had to pull the lower hose to drain the radiator. I noticed you mentioned flushing the engine block if you wanted to change coolant types. I don't want to change but was interested in getting a 100% flush and all new coolant. The Chilton manual shows 2 cylinder block drain plugs but I don't think the 05 has it (kind of like the radiator drain plug). Any suggestions on how to get a complete flush before adding the new coolant. During my radiator drain I got about 8 quarts. Manual shows 16.7 quart capacity. Thanks for any help. Did your work as a GM mechanic?
Pull the temperature sensor from the driver side.
And no I didn’t. I work as a heavy equipment mechanic.
My truck's a 2004 avalanche and it doesn't have an electric fan
You’re right. The electric fans started in 2005. You have a clutch fan and will most likely need to remove it to pull the radiator. A little more work, but nothing major. You do have the option of upgrading to the electric fans though. Here is a great write up that tells you everything you need to know.
www.mrk-motorsports.com/99-04-gmt800-oem-e-fan-upgrade/
You do not need to take the clutch fan out I have an 02 and the radiator fits out very well without removing the clutch fan
I had to trim some of the fan housing on the lower half so the reinstall would not scuff the radiator fins.