Thank you for your video. Any tips on how to attach a wooden leg support to a granite countertop overhang on a porcelain floor? Our current one was glued to the porcelain tile and becomes unsecured when accidentally kicked or hit by feet or vacuum cleaners. Can you help us with this? Thank you!
Thanks Rachel for your question. I would carefully remove the post completely. Cut a 3/4” block of wood the same width of your post. You will need to fasten the block to the floor useing two medium size masonry anchors or screws. First use a regular drill bit to drill 2 holes in the block slightly larger than the screw itself. You will also need to counter sink the screw heads. Use a spacer block like I did in the first video to position your piece and mark the holes. Set the block aside and drill your holes with a masonry drill bit. A quick tip. First drill only one hole in the porcelain. Take your piece and temporarly fasten one screw. Now mark and drill your second hole. Fasten the block to the porcelain. Remember to countersink the screw heads. Now cut 3/4” off the length of your post and install the same way I did in the first video. Use the spacer block to keep the post flush on all four sides. Predrill 4 small holes on an angle. Be sure that your nails are not too long. They mite hit the porcelain. Now that your post is in. Install 4 small trim pieces that are a minimum of 3/4” in height. This will cover the seam. Be sure to fasten to the block and not on an angle. You mite hit the porcelain. If you don’t have a air nailer, predrill your trim pieces with a small bit. This will make things easy. Quick tip. Lay a piece of cardboard on the floor so you can slide your hammer. I would also caulk around the bottom to the floor. Hope this helps. Let me kno how things turned out. Keep me POST ed.
@@commonsenseprojects You are welcome! Thank you very much for your quick response! It was very helpful! How about making a new video explaining that? There is none on UA-cam about that. I would love to share your videos on my Facebook since I have clients that want to remodel their homes and this would greatly help them. Just look for Rachel Swedlund. Your video was the best we found online. Thanks again and have a great day!
Good Morning, Just put in a front loading washer and dryer in our kitchen between a wall and the fridge. Would like to install a removable butcher block counter top to make it a usable and aesthetically pleasing counter surface. Needs to be removable in case of any issue with the plumbing/machines. Two questions... Was thinking of placing a 2x2 along the back wall for supporting the back. But need legs in the front to support those corners. Was thinking that securing the leg to the butcher block itself would allow removal of the top in Any thoughts or suggestions would be appreciated. A neighbor has some beautiful antique table legs but they are too short. I'd it possible to elongate the legs and have them be stable enough?
Hello and thanks for the question. 2x2 is a good idea. Make sure to screw it to the wall studs. The legs can certainly be extended. Use 2 screws for each leg. Fasten the leg threw the topside of counter top and into the leg. You can remove the top if u need to. As for the extension, if the bottom is square (for example 3x3 square and u need to extend it 6 inches) use a molding or a piece of 1x lumber that’s at least 8 inches tall or taller. Over lap the leg around the bottom. If your extension needs to be longer. (For example 24 inches)rip a piece of 1x lumber at least 26 inches tall or longer. The longer the better. And fasten it to the leg with screws. It would be stronger to use a 1x piece of wood instead of a molding. Then fasten the leg to the floor with metal L brackets with screws. U can remove the screws if you need to. If you can let me kno if this was helpful. Or send me any further questions. Thanks.
What tool did you use to make the cut? I’ve been having an adventure. I’m using a 10 inch miter saw and it’s too small. I took a piece I bought to Home Depot and the post is too large for the Home Depot machine and they can’t cut it.
Could I add shims to my current post? One of the 4 posts isn’t in full contact with the counter, if someone put their weight on the corner they could probably crack the granite.
No I would not. Most countertop installers won’t install with the posts already in place. And remember you can use a shoe molding around the bottom to hold the post in place.
@@ashleyorgill8080I just had quartz installed without the posts installed on my island. They said you can have 12” overhang without supports but since I ordered 15” overhang to just be careful until my posts are installed.
Quick question. How tight of a fit is too tight? I installed mine today and it feels a tad snug. Slid under the counter slightly easily. However floor is semi uneven. Should I Uninstall and fit with a shim?
I can't find those table legs at home depot. did they come w/ the adjustable collars on them? or did you buy them separately? Also did they come painted? Thanks!
@@Michael-li3id , found a similar one at Lowe’s L.J. Smith Stair Systems 5.5-in x 56-in Primed Poplar Wood Stair Newel Post Item #422643 Model #4191 56 ETPMD
Hi, did those small nails you used to toe nail into the bottom post also penetrate the wood flooring and subfloor? If not, how do they help secure the bottom in place?
Thanks
Nice caulk
Thank you for your video. Any tips on how to attach a wooden leg support to a granite countertop overhang on a porcelain floor? Our current one was glued to the porcelain tile and becomes unsecured when accidentally kicked or hit by feet or vacuum cleaners. Can you help us with this? Thank you!
Thanks Rachel for your question. I would carefully remove the post completely. Cut a 3/4” block of wood the same width of your post. You will need to fasten the block to the floor useing two medium size masonry anchors or screws. First use a regular drill bit to drill 2 holes in the block slightly larger than the screw itself. You will also need to counter sink the screw heads. Use a spacer block like I did in the first video to position your piece and mark the holes. Set the block aside and drill your holes with a masonry drill bit. A quick tip. First drill only one hole in the porcelain. Take your piece and temporarly fasten one screw. Now mark and drill your second hole. Fasten the block to the porcelain. Remember to countersink the screw heads. Now cut 3/4” off the length of your post and install the same way I did in the first video. Use the spacer block to keep the post flush on all four sides. Predrill 4 small holes on an angle. Be sure that your nails are not too long. They mite hit the porcelain. Now that your post is in. Install 4 small trim pieces that are a minimum of 3/4” in height. This will cover the seam. Be sure to fasten to the block and not on an angle. You mite hit the porcelain. If you don’t have a air nailer, predrill your trim pieces with a small bit. This will make things easy. Quick tip. Lay a piece of cardboard on the floor so you can slide your hammer. I would also caulk around the bottom to the floor. Hope this helps. Let me kno how things turned out. Keep me POST ed.
@@commonsenseprojects You are welcome! Thank you very much for your quick response! It was very helpful! How about making a new video explaining that? There is none on UA-cam about that. I would love to share your videos on my Facebook since I have clients that want to remodel their homes and this would greatly help them. Just look for Rachel Swedlund. Your video was the best we found online. Thanks again and have a great day!
Where r u located? Is this soemthing we can pay you to do for us?
Good Morning,
Just put in a front loading washer and dryer in our kitchen between a wall and the fridge. Would like to install a removable butcher block counter top to make it a usable and aesthetically pleasing counter surface. Needs to be removable in case of any issue with the plumbing/machines. Two questions... Was thinking of placing a 2x2 along the back wall for supporting the back. But need legs in the front to support those corners. Was thinking that securing the leg to the butcher block itself would allow removal of the top in Any thoughts or suggestions would be appreciated. A neighbor has some beautiful antique table legs but they are too short. I'd it possible to elongate the legs and have them be stable enough?
Hello and thanks for the question. 2x2 is a good idea. Make sure to screw it to the wall studs. The legs can certainly be extended. Use 2 screws for each leg. Fasten the leg threw the topside of counter top and into the leg. You can remove the top if u need to. As for the extension, if the bottom is square (for example 3x3 square and u need to extend it 6 inches) use a molding or a piece of 1x lumber that’s at least 8 inches tall or taller. Over lap the leg around the bottom. If your extension needs to be longer. (For example 24 inches)rip a piece of 1x lumber at least 26 inches tall or longer. The longer the better. And fasten it to the leg with screws. It would be stronger to use a 1x piece of wood instead of a molding. Then fasten the leg to the floor with metal L brackets with screws. U can remove the screws if you need to. If you can let me kno if this was helpful. Or send me any further questions. Thanks.
What tool did you use to make the cut?
I’ve been having an adventure. I’m using a 10 inch miter saw and it’s too small. I took a piece I bought to Home Depot and the post is too large for the Home Depot machine and they can’t cut it.
U can use a circular saw. Just mak 4 cuts all the way around the post. Then u a hand saw to finish the cut.
Could I add shims to my current post? One of the 4 posts isn’t in full contact with the counter, if someone put their weight on the corner they could probably crack the granite.
Yes you can add shims. I would try to squeeze some glue in first then finish it off with caulk.
I have 30 inch overhang for my quartz countertop we installed should I put 2 or 3 posts for support ?
Depends how far it hangs over and how long your countertop is. With a 12” overhang and your length is longer then 12’ I would put 3.
Total length is 60 inch with 30 inch overhang.
2 for sure.
if the counter top was not installed yet. would you use a wooden dowel in the floor instead of nailing it?
No I would not. Most countertop installers won’t install with the posts already in place. And remember you can use a shoe molding around the bottom to hold the post in place.
All installers we talk to want the posts installed BEFORE they’ll even come measure the template.🤷🏻♀️
@@ashleyorgill8080I just had quartz installed without the posts installed on my island. They said you can have 12” overhang without supports but since I ordered 15” overhang to just be careful until my posts are installed.
What glue and caulking did you use?
Thanks for the question. I used clear 100% silicone for the glue. And I then used a regular high quality caulk.
Quick question. How tight of a fit is too tight? I installed mine today and it feels a tad snug. Slid under the counter slightly easily. However floor is semi uneven. Should I Uninstall and fit with a shim?
You should be fine as long as the glue makes good contact on both surfaces. Still caulk to help the leg stay in place.
Where did you get the legs from?
Home depo.
I can't find those table legs at home depot. did they come w/ the adjustable collars on them? or did you buy them separately? Also did they come painted?
Thanks!
The post I bought is actually for a stair railing. I had to cut some off the top and some off the bottom.
@@Michael-li3id , found a similar one at Lowe’s
L.J. Smith Stair Systems 5.5-in x 56-in Primed Poplar Wood Stair Newel Post
Item #422643
Model #4191 56 ETPMD
Do u by chance have a link we’re I can order these legs
I bought them at home depo. I had to cut them to size.
That breathing
What type of nails were those
I used #4 penny finish nails. You can use larger nails but make sure your drilling into the flooring as well as the posts.
@@commonsenseprojects thanks a ton
You’re quite welcome. Thanks for watching. Be sure to check out some of my other projects
Hi, did those small nails you used to toe nail into the bottom post also penetrate the wood flooring and subfloor? If not, how do they help secure the bottom in place?